The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, November 13, 1910, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 64

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V .
NOW that the Winter chill Is In the
air and the rln are coming down
steadily, the boudoir robe and the
house fOn of coxy warmth are a-
umlnr added importance. The candle
light hours hare o lengthened that
the warm little house gown lor in
formal wear bas an appeal all, Its own
and Is being numbered among the es
sentials of the well-dressed woman.
If one Is clever at planning, and
handy with the sewing machine, the
matter of a few pretty little house
-owns need not be one of much e.
penae. For most of the materiale of
these day are beautifully son ana
clinging, well suited to the prettty
Itnes of graceful drapery that are so
distinctive of the dainty, artistic house
gown. Then. too. there are such pos
sibilities In one's discarded evening
costumes snd In the bits of trimming
that accumulate from past seaaona.
millinery, laces, ribbons that may be
made into frills, etc
Many of the most charming of house
gowns are made from passe evening
frocks, with a little rresn trimming,
nrf the nresent elasticity of style ad
mits of all manner of designs being
warkerl out. The individual require
ment Is all that needs to be studied. In
working out a plan for converting soma
old silken or crepe de chine frock over
Into jm dalntv house gown, ine snon
walKtllne. always so graceful and so
easy for the home dressmaker to nego
tiate. Is in the best of style at present
and aa Inventive feminine brain may
tinirm out all manner of variations.
The sweeping erase for veiling ef
fects gives one the opportunity for
utilizing good material which are only
slightly worn, or faded, ny using snirrea
veiling over such portions as are not
frejh and uniform in color. Metallic
lares or embroideries no longer oru
Itant and new are also very rich and
effective under a rloudllke drapery of
chiffon or similar material.
e e
A modish way of emphasising the
short waistline in house frocks and
negligees of all kinds is by the raised
belt, marie of a single width of some
ornamental material, or several nar
row widths of garniture laid together
closely. There are three modish ways
of arranglnr the short waist line, one
being the high up. straight around belt
under the arms: the other two are the
upward and downward dip from the
waistline Elands of fanciful trtmminlg
or of material In contracting color are
much used in these designs.
The kimono sleeve, which has prac
tically passed In the more formal cos
tumes. Is wrJl to the fore In the mod
ish house frock. Long straight lines
are the rule, and many of the smart
house gowns show the narrowed-ln
sktrt. the fullness being gathered In at
the knee or from knee to ankle, after
the fashion of the hobble tunic. But
the long, unbroken lines seem more
graceful In this type of frock, as the
I soft materials do not lend themselves
gracefiily to the hobble effect, cither
wilting or standing. Tea leaf green Is
one of the favorite house gown colors
this svtson. and a handsome frock on
diKplay In one of the large department
stores Is of tea leaf green satin, with
an overdrape of gray chiffon. Two
shaped bands of Oriental embroidery
are laid over the shoulders, and a plain
panel sweeps In loose princess effect
down the front, with the fullness at the
sides drawn in under a raised girdle
of Oriental embroidery decorated with
satin covered buttons. The sleeves are
banded with satin.
Another charming negligee affair Is
an empire robe of old rose silk and
wool crepe, trimmed with bands of sil
ver, on a surplice-shaped waist portion.
The sleeves are short and close fitted,
with bands of the silver laid horizon
tally, and are finished with a frill of
A resourceful rortland girl who had
no hat exactly to her liking for wear
with her stunning new gown of black'
velvet, and her black velvet shoes, put
on her. thinking cap with very happy
results. Kllchlng the large "bee-hive"
crown from her Summer hat of straw,
she covered it with a yard of wide mil
liner's velvet, laying the velvet In plaits
all around the edge of the crown, and
catching In the fulness here and there
with "blind" stitches on the top. The
velvet was of a rich, glossy black, and
In combination with a band of beautiful
Week lynx fur. taken from an old neck
piece, made a very smart and modish
rffert. The band of fur was laid flat
around the bottom, and the triumphant
finishing touch, which lent Just the
right air of dash and style, was a huga
rose of white satin, with white foliage.
The rose and foliage were laid flat at
the left side. No milliner's creation,
costing a score of precious dollars,
could be more attractive, or more stun
ning In effect, than this smart little hat
.made of left-over scraps and a (3-cent
'rose plrked up at a bargain sale by this
clever home milliner.
An unusually chic and dainty little
liwiur. worn by .another modish Port
land girl, with a costume of gray cloth
and gray furs, is of gray velvet, with a
crushed crown and a ruff of gold lace
falling over the hair. A gold rose, wit
a pink heart placed Just at the left of
fie middle, finishes this attractive lit
tle affair of gray and gold.
e s
lty the way. the coiffure ornaments
and accessories are coming more and
more to the fore, and if they continue
to Increase In height ant aiie. the the
ater managers may find It necessary to
irake appeal for another ordinance, re
O'lrtng their fair patrons to taka off
their tulles and aigrettes, as well aa
tlielr hats. Sum of the coiffure caps
are little less than evening bonnets,
with the crowns open. A New Tork
correspondent says there is already
some agitation against the big coif
fures and their swathlngs of tulle,
which obscure the view of the patron
behind, almost aa completely as the now
obsolete theater hat once did. Tower
ing aigrettes, and bobbing ostrich tips,
however pretty and becoming they may
b to the elaborately puffed and curled
wearer, are apt to leave her open to a
charge of being Inconsiderate of the
persons sitting Just behind her. Kven
in rortland. where the extreme styles
appear a little tardily, the coiffure
bands of twisted tulle, metallised em
broidery, or other ornamental material,
are noticeably wider, and the upstand
ing clioui. butterflies and aigrettes
much higher.
e , e
In the East there Is particular ob
jection to that type of coiffure orna
ment known as the "mob cap." which
Is really an all-enveloping cap of daln
tv lace with silk roses or other trim
ming, edged with a full frill which
makes a soft frame about the face un
der the brim of the outer hat; for the
-mob cap" Is worn under the street
hat. and Is Intended to be left on In
the theater, when the outer hat Is removed-
On msny of the smartest of
these little raps, rosebuds and full
blown roses are massed all over the
crown, adding further dimensions to
elaborate structure of rata, puffs, braids
and curls which go to make up the
modish coiffure. Thus Is Incurred the
animosity of the theater managers,
Abundant suggestion for Christmas
. needle work Is to be fo :nd in the shops
I these days. At the ribbon counters.
where all manner of widths, textures
Lh4 pattern In the ribbon Una irt be
ing offered, there is really an aston
ishing variety of dainty things for the
boudoir that may -be fashioned of the
broader widths of ribbon One of the
new showings is the boudoir slipper of
ribbon, fashioned by stitching one edge
of the material to a slipper sole and
gathering the other in with a frill at
the top. with a seam up the front to
shape the slipper to the foot. Persian
ribbon, with pink or blue lining, is at
tractively used in this way.
If your last season's suit is still in
good style and but little worn, the sug
gestion of an East Side reader may be
helpful. Wide rippling revere and cuffs
made of the pretty linen tapestries and
line upholstery materials threaded with
gold can be easily made at home and
will give an old tailored suit a dis
tinctly modish touch. All the Oriental
patterns, itasisley. Persian and Egyptian
are available In materials of excellent
quality at very reasonable figures now
and are much used as unaersupa ior
nets and chiffons.
Many an old trunk stored away for
years In the attic Is yielding up treas
ure trove for the woman of fashion
these days. If you've an old trunk In
the attic you'd better have it brought
down and investigate Ita contents. The
Effective Styles in Blouses
THE woman who has old lace
waists on hand, or a skirt or two
in figured or plain silk, may now
find use for these dilapidated fineries.
A little study of the shop models la
both elegant and practical blouses for
Winter wear will demonstrate how
these ancient materials can be used up.
for everything can go Into a bodice
nowadays, and veiling one stuff with
another is the madness of the moment
Granted there must be a little good
lace for the yoke and sleeve bottoms,
all the rest that goes Into' a corsage,
made altar tbe present styles, may b
passion for fringes of all descriptions
is on the increase instead of the wane.
In fringes, particularly, the wardrobes
of other days yield up rare treasures.
You cannot go amiss on fringes, no
matter what the width, material or
color; silk, cotton, wool or linen, even
strings of beads, all have their place
on the modish gown of the minute and
the wraps of the latest design. Beaded
laces, too. are ultra fashionable, and no
matter how small the scraps they can
be utilized in some way. Old laces and
nettings of quaint design are highly
valued and It is Just these things that
are being delved for most enthusiastic
ally in the attic trunks so long for
gotten. Remember. Christmas Isn't so very
far in the future. Put your good inten
tions to work at once and buy bargains
when you see them. Handmade gifts
should not be started any later, espe those which require considerable
time in the making.
R. s. V. P... which being translated
means. "Answer If you please." is still
used on formal invitations, but even
that Is being displaced. On many en
graved forma are now the words, "The
courtesy of an answer Is requested," it
being considered better taste to use
English exclusively.
patched to any extent. As for silk, all
that Is necessary Is for It .to be of
a rich color, for the sheen of red, blue,
orange, or violet must be visible
through the covering of veiling, mar
quisette or -chiffon. A Summer foulard
In black , and white since these ma-
terials wash like rags would be In
valuable, for this combination is stylish
unrler a veiling of any sort in color.
The veiled waists, especially If they
have three-quarter sleeves, are shown
principally for dressy uses, but the
style is too useful for the home dress
maker to Ignore when making over old
textures, and if trimmings and models
axe sufficiently simple, - such designs
are suitable for the plainest tailor
The veiled bodice with lace under
part, commonly begins with a complete
blouse made with a high stock of an
all-over lace. A plain or patterned
silk, or a Persian gauze foundation,
which is very stylish, stop -t the
line where the Jumper is to cover it
and be filled In there with a stock in
appropriate materials. The jumper,
which is of the gauzy veiling in the
dress color, is the easleBt thing in the
world to make. The kimono model is
the favorite for this over-blouse, and
is fitted with one or more Gibson pleats
at the shoulders, or else tucked back
and front, or across the shoulders only.
One strikingly effective device with
such waists is a broad band of some
rich trimming going around the foun
dation at the bust point, and showing
richly through the thin outer material.
Narrow velvet ribbon, or plain satin
bands, trims the white stocks and un
dersleeves of these bodices effectively,
while the blouse itself may have quite
another trimming.
Persian silk and Indian cottons in a
blur of rich color shape the more prac
tical waists, those intended strictly for
the plainer tailor gowns: but when
tliese gaudy textures are veiled with
something else, they are at once be
come things for dressy use.
Plaid and checked silks ara used with
striking effect wltn the patterning
the straight a few of the bigger plaHs
are on the bias velvet ribbon In some
matching color, or black, trimming the
stock and front In some manner. A
neat wrinkle for the-use of this modest
garnishing on such useful bodlecs is
to have a bit of the velvet, tying with
a little tailor bow in front, about the
stock. This at once dresses the neck
so that no other fixing Is required. -and
the waist is always ready to put on.
In the accompanying illustrated
models the woman who makes her own
clothes will find some excellent de
signs for flxy and plain use.
Figure A displays a blouse of a
simple all-over lace in a rich-cream,
covered with a kimono jumper of
king's blue marquisette. A lace in blue
and black encircles the round neck,
with a stole drop at the front. The
same lace edges the sleeves of the
jumper and forms cuffs for the gath
ered undersleeves. '
This bodice, like all the others, is
adapted to simpler materials. If a gray
dress on hand must be fitted out with
a waist, use any colored silk blue, old
rose, violet, green or white for tbe
foundation, and then get a veiling in
the dress color for the top. Moire or
silk in a matching color could be em
ployed instead of the lace here used.
A well-made waist in this style would
be suited to a handsome tailor suit, and
If liked the Jumper part alone might
be employed as a model for a collar
less, short-sleeved house effect. In fact,
there Is no end to the possibilities of
this jumper, for It is adapted equally
to plain and dressy uses.
Figure B gives a draped effect, which,
while especially lovely for indoors, may
yet be made in a way to suit any smart
street gown. In the illustration, the
bodice is part of an elegant house dress,
and It Is shown with a princess skirt
of pale velvet cloth. The foundation
Is of violet silk and the covering of
chiffon Is in the same color; the lace
banding is of green silk embroidery
with a touch of black and white. It
would take very little new material
to make the low cut of this bodice, and
if there Is a handsome skirt In' either
silk or cloth in the wardrobe, this ad
dition would create a very handsome
dinner or theater dress.
Figure C offers another. Btyle as
suited to a high or a low effect, and it
is especially adapted to the making
over of materials, as one goods could
' form the foundation, another the veil
ing part, and still another the trim
ming. As pictured, the bodice is of pale blue
veling over a glistening white satin. A
trimming of blue moire shapes a bertha
band on the upper part, this going un
der the arms with the look of a short
jacket; and a very pretty cream lace is
used for the gathered tucker, the wing
bow at the bust, and the sleeve falls.
The high pointed cuffs of the elbow
sleeves are a smart feature.
This waist, like the two preceding
ones, is capable of much variation re
garding the time and place for wearing
it. Made high and Iong-lseeved, the
various garments, in matching colors
that Is. the outside veiling matching
would be suited to the finest reception
costumes or elegant tailor suits. Made
low . and short-sleeved, the waists are
very pretty for Indoors. The styles may
also be used for a gown In an entire
material or for an odd waist.
Figures D and E give two of the
plainer - styles for use with -tailored
frocks or for practical house service.
Figure D offers smart possibilities
for any little checked or plaid ma
terial silk, delaine, challie or even
gingham for the model is too simple
to debar this useful house texture. Like
most of the nrnrtlcal bodices, thin one
is adjusted at the shoulder with a C!b- j
son pleat, the back showing two of
these. The buttons used on the plas
tron, with their attendant loops, as well
as the piping around this piece and on
the cuffs and stock, break the check
agreeably and give opportunity for a
little flxlness. But in . buying a
checked or plaid goods for a nice street
dress, be sure to match the color with
some line of prominence In the waist
material, for there must be a lo. ot
continuity between the bodice and suit.
Figure E is likewise fitted with Gib
son pleats, and the slight double
breasting of the front, with the odd line
employed. Is a novel touch. As illus
trated, the bodice is of a changeable
blue and green taffeta,. with a narrow
bias of black velvet and a oust fall of
a simple black lace over white. Like
the foregoing model, the design is
adapted to the plainest texture alpaca,
gingham, challie and flannel are among
them. But with the useful garment in
every day material, the fussier trim
mings would be left on.
All dressy waists, as these models
show, are fastened at the back and
pain ones hook or-button at the front
or side front. The back of the smarter
model is in one piece, slightly gathered
at the waist if pleats are not used;
and there is scarcely a touch of Mous
ing at the front.
Stocks are all made nigh and fit
closely, while the sleeve for a plain
garment is full length and the one for
dressier waist generally emow or
three-quarter length. The smarter
waists must all have linings, but the
practical bodice can be unlined if it.
Is of a thick material. Nevertheless, a
little bit of lawn at the shoulders
keeps a waist cleaner and helps to hold
it in shape lunger. At the bottom all
8 f KSL f J
The Shoes Without Buttons or Laces
Easily tired, sensitive feet that ache and
are swollen at night, that cause discom
fort if you stand long or walk far, that
itch and perspire, get lasting relief from
Mayer Martha Washington Comfort
wr n. .
Snoes. xou win
know what genuine
comfort is until you
worn these perfect
1 IP. 4- 1
any instep yet are roomyj
r Genuine Comfort
The rubber at the sides gently yields with every step
' preventing pinching or binding. Easy to put on or take
off no buttons or laces. ...
You will never get real comfort, rest or relief until
you have worn the genuine Mayer Martha Washington
Comfort Shoes.
Made in three sizes and three heights.
Be sure to get the genuine. There are many inferior imitations.
Reject as counterfeit anything offered as Martha Washington with
out the Mayer Trade Mark stamped on the sole. The best mer
chants handle the genuine. If you can't find a dealer write to us.
The realM9rtha Washington has the name
Martha Washington and Mayer Trade
Mark stamped on the sole.
r--f'-- :zri
H'nlern Branch; Washington
bodices should be trimmed off ' and
tliere finished with a bias tail for the
good fit of belt and skirt.
A charming Fall coat for a little girl
is made of gray corduroy, plaited and
finished with a broad leather belt. of
the same shade.
I-,ong coats in seal and caracul are
smart, and handsome and smart Imita
tions of these furs in cloth will be
made up In the same lines. -
The newest fad In footwear this Au
tumn and Winter will be fur-trimmed
boots, to be worn with fur and fur
trimmed garments.
Fashion for Approaching Winter
Orders Varicolored Novelties.
.Bags of broche, suspended by long1
twisted cords of silk, are modish. In
some Instances these cords ara so long
that the bag hangs below the knee.
White kid gloves are stitched in col
ors to match the frock.
Scotch plaid effects are exceedingly
To Remove
Superfluous Hair
Br. DuvalU the eminent physioiao. siys.
"I concider DeMiracle the only 6re. Burr
and radical euro for that very common acr.
objectionable trouble, superfluous hair.
DeMiracle is totally different from the
powders, pastes and other remedies, which
simply break the hair off. making It grow
heavier than before after each removnl.
Booklet containing fuU in form at ion of th ,i
remarkable treatment, with tostimoniols of
physicians, surgeons, derm ntokgiss. medics i
Journals, prominent magazines, and news
par, will be mailed Jree. In P''?
envelope, oa request to DeMiricle Chemical
CoVPark Avo. and 159th Bt, New Tork.
No honest dealer will oer a u!...tute
on which he makes more profit. DoMiraoie
Is eo'd at all uood stores, including .
Queries" on Beauty topics should be sent
While attending the World's Con
gress of Beauty Specialists in Berlin
last Summer. I learned that nearly all
hair dressers to the European courts
employ eggol for shampooing, after
which the scalp is gently massaged
with beta-canthol. The eggol removes
dandruff and excess oil and leaves the
scalp pink and healthy, while beta
canthol is a tonic of rare properties-in
producing a luxuriant growth of
glossy hair. The eggol shampoo should
be used twice a month for a while,
then once a month: and the tonle,
which is made by dissolving an ounce
of beta-canthol In a half pint each of
alcohol and water, should be used
every night for a month, then once a
week. Many of my readers have tried
this treatment with splendid results. .
Venus: (1) The clogged condition of
vour skin is likely due to excessive use
of powder. (2) The- ceroid cream of
which you write is greaseless, will not
grow hairs, and is the cheapest, smooth
est and most delightful massage cream
you can use. Dissolve three ounces of
cerol In a pint of water that has been
brought to the boiling point, stirring
until of a creamy consisteucy, then1 use
freely on the face, neck and arms, mas
saging till It disappears. This will
clean and clear the skin, arid you will
not have to resort to powder or rouge.
Cora M.: The Intense Itching of which
vou speak no-doubt -is caused from ec
xema or - some kindred akin -disease
1 ife&k
tmmmmmmm mmm we
&t2m&8iiUUltt&&& ffSSS". Lead
'(gV2ki Trade Mark - SjafPw
J$7 on the sole
FREE If you will send us the
name of a dealer who does not
handle Martha Washington Com
fort Shoes, we will send yon free,
postpaid, a beautiful picture of
Martha Washington, size 15x20.
make the stylish
r Ladv Shoes, Yerma
Cushion Shoes, Special Merit
1 Shoes and Honorbilt
for men.
Boot& Shoe Co.
ghoo Mf. Co.. Seattle. Wash.
handsome In new silk blouses. These
are especially effective for girls goins
to college.
A newcomer among gloves Is an elbow-length
glove of silk which has a
band of openwork about the wrist in
bracelet effect.
Eyelet embroidery plays a large part
In ornamentation of fashionable gowns.
Many of the new silk dresses are be
ing made with skirts short enough to
show the ankles, and all have soma
kind of overdress.
To mingle cerise with greens of pe
culiar shades is a bold step to take,
but with unerring skill such contrasts
may, be chosen satisfactorily. Phila
delphia Bulletin.
Some of the new marabout stoles are
finished with rosettes; also of the mar
about resembling flowers and in either
shape at either end of the long tabs.
E. Burnham's Toilet Preparations
Contain nothing: that will
Injure the most sensitive
skin or delicate . complex
ion. The juice of the Cucum
ber has for ages been rec
ognized aa one of the most
important and effectual
remedies for beauty ills,
and as compounded under
the formula of the K.
Rnrnham Cncnmbr and
Elderflower Cream is especially deligrhtful
aa a skin cleanser, as it enters me pores,
removing all impurities. Its whitening- and
soothing- qualities are known to thousands.
Price 50c and $1.
E. Burn ham' Kalof-Oione MMhago
Creme is a greaseless. vanishing creme. It.
is wonderful, beautifier. (Gentlemen find it
delightful after shaving-) Price 50c.
E. Btirnham'ft Medicated Complexion
Powder is a finer powder, and more satis
factory, -than many of a much higher price.
(4 shades.): Price 50c.
These preparations are used exclusively
ESTABLISHMENT, the largest in the
world. 70 and VI- State at., Chicago, f
If your dealer cannot supply you we wiB
send postpaid upon receipt of price.
E.- Burnham, 67 and 69 E. Wash, it, Chi
cago, Dept. C-33. '
TTiiiTtvt w, mim in n ife. ii
TOM Ifcs? 7.;N II: I
mi. itmw
Little Home Helps On
How to Be Beautiful
to Madame Maree, 35 Clark Street,
Dissolve two ounces of borothol in a
pint of warm water, then apply freely
to the affected parts. This soon stops
Itching and heals the Irritated surface.
Bride: Don't despair because of youi
scrawniness and underdevelopment. For
years the Vaucaire method has been
used with gratifying results, and as
this is a home treatment, you can use
it without him knowing about it. -To
prepare, make a syrup with one and a
half cupfuls of granulated sugar and
enough water to make a pint. Into
this pour an ounce of gallol (be sure
it's the true gallol). Put in a bottle
and shake well, then take two table-i-poonfuls
twice or three times a day.
This soon rounds out the figure, mak
ing it plump and symmetrical.
Clarinda: I would not recommend tin
electric needle, as it is painful and un
necessary in removing superfluous
hairs. Go to your druggist and get an
ounce of delol, and with warm water
mix a litle into a stiff paste; spread
this on the offending hairs and let re
main two or three minutes, then scrape
off and the hairs will come with it.
Dodo: Harsh soaps and Fall winds
contribute to roughness and redness of
the skin," but you can overcome this
condition if you will get an ounce of
amarol from your - druggist and dis
solve' it in a pint of hot water. After
washing the hands and face and dry
ing well, apply freely and it will
quickly produce that soft, satiny slow.,
admired so much. j ,