6 .
THE SUNDAY OBEGOXIAS. PORTLAND, JULY 31, 1910
PORTLAND WOMEN HAVE AT LAST
ACCEPTED PUZZLING HOBBLE SKIRT
POR a season or so we have been
hearing- of the barefoot dance on
the stage, and we have even seen
It, here in Portland, gracefully danced
by vaudeville maids to the accompani
ment of undulating, serpentine silk
wings, played upon by fiery lights. But
now the barefoot dance has been taken
up by a certain school of health-cultur-lsts,
and we read that to dance bare
foot In the open Is the way to rid one's
'self of nerves, banish encroaching wrin
kles, defy approaching age, and to re
! new one's youth much In the fashion
! dreamed of by Ponce De Leon, while he
worried himself old In searching for the
fabulous fountain.
Pair matrons and maids, we are told,
are bow out at dawn, dabbling their
pretty pink toes In the dew and trip
ping light, joyous measures' in the fields
and parks. In some of the large East
' ern cities the barefoot dance craze has
' assumed Impressive proportions, and
each morning finds a goodly number
of devotees out with the first clarion
of chantecler, tripping gaily and trust
ingly over the dew-moist grass, in
spired by the belief that in their bare
foot terpsichorean antics they will find
strength and youth.
One of the puzzles of the moment Is
what to wear under the scant hobble
skirt that has lately come to us with
t the stamp of the Parisian craze. The
! hobble skirt necessarily eliminates al
i together the dependable old drop skirt
j of silk, with which we formerly pro
I -vlded substantial foundation for the
eneerer materials. various ways are
being worked out by local modistes, in
cluding a separate underskirt patterned
closely after the fashion of the outer
f:own, and many of the new indrawn
gowns have merely a knee flounce of
llk attached to' the under side of the
klrt, to represent a petticoat and keep
the thin material of the gown from pull
ing in ungracefully about the ankles,
fcome of the hobble skirts have silk
linings throughout, with the flounce
at the bottom, and with these an un
derskirt is not necessary.
Portland femininity, which at first
looked askance at the harbingers of
the acant skirt, is approaching the con
sequent "embracing" stage. Women
who at first were very emphatic in
their denunciation of the eccentric
'node are now conferring with their
dressmakers as to modified interpre
tations, or even accepting the fashion
in all its picturesque exaggeration. A
hobble skirt on the street no longer
causes the ripple of excitement -that
4t did only a fortnight ago. On the
principle of getting used' to' it, per
il rti we nr nil hperinniTie' even to
mdmlre It a little. ' Only a few days
'ego a pretty, dimpled young debutante
.'went down. -Washington street in an
extreme interpretation of the mode,
and there was nausrht but admiration
Jin the tribute of feminine andi mascu-
hllne glances that were turned her way
las she passed. The frock was of white,
said Was banded in just below the knees,
Who narrow effect being exaggerated by
the extreme fullness gathered in above.
The square cut Dutch neck was edged
lln pink embroidered rosebuds, and she
Jwore a white lingerie linen hat, of the
I'Corday type, with' a "narrow band of
the embroidered pink rosebuds dividing
puffed -crown and down-drooping brim.
With her dainty little white parasol,
and her tripping, white-stockinged feet,
she looked very much as if she had
I stepped forth from the frame of some
quaint old-fashioned picture.
Coats, long and short coats; eilk coats,
llnen coats, coats for traveling, for mo
J toring, for cruising, in fact, all manner
Lf Summer coats, are to the fore Just
!now. It Is the height of the coat sea
son, and when other offerings pall on
lhe shopper, tho coat displays can be
(yelled upon to provide something Inter
esting. Never before, the Portland mer
chants say, has there been such a de
ft snand for Summer coats, and the num.
jTber and variety for motoring and trav
eling that .have found eager purchas
ers this season exceed anything In coat
ilhistory. Silk.- linen and light serges,
;f course, lead in the Summer gar
, Bnents, but there are a number of other
Jtittractlve offerings, and when a shop
'jier raises the coat question, the re
tsponse is bewildering,
j There are many attractive models.
Bcspite the fact that one long, loose
: hanging garment is much like another,
!&nd without one of these all-envelop-'3ng
ooats. the feminine Summer ward-!i-obe
is hardly complete. Comfort and
j durability have been ingeniously com-
. ......... . mm. ,
J figi:rb r.
blned by the designers of the long coat
of the present season, and some of the
motor toggery, besides fulfilling every
practicable purpose, are quite the smart
est things imaginable. One of the new
models la called the polo coat. r1-
FIGURE A.
though it is essentially a motoring gar
ment. One of the new smart touches on the
simple tubbable frock for the street,
and for wear with "trotting" suits of
serge or silk, is the revived cuff-and-collar
set. The dainty little cuff-and-collar
sets never were really abandoned
by Dame Fashion, but they are now
enjoying a renewed vogue, and are
being offered In the Portland stores
in great variety and exquisite dainti
ness. The pretty and practical Dutch
collar so universally popular Is im
proved upon by the full cut f-and-col-lar
set, as some of the models are mere
ly pretty Dutch collars with cutis to
match. Other styles are of the cut and
shape to fit about the back of the neck
and over the lapels of the coat. The
lacy bit of white or cream as a finish
to neck and sleeves is always charm
ing, and with the pretty frills and fur
belows of the present offerings, they
have an especial appeal. There are
sets in dainty colors, too, such as pale
and dark blues, old rose, pink, scarlet,
tan. yellow and green, and when these
color tones are tastefully chosen, they
offer an attractive note, of contrast
with any frock.
A reader of the Woman's Depart
ment sends In a suggestion which will
probably bring Joy to some mother
whose children wear the khaki colored
blouses and knickers. The contributor
says she has learned a successful way
to avoid the faded out brown that the
khaki garments attain after the vig
orous washing necessary upon Juve
nile wear and tear. She makes and
keeps on hand a bottle of what she
calls "browning." and with this, after
the last rinsing, she restores the khaki
to its original rich and even brown
tone. "The browning" is made bv
pouring boiling water over a 10-cent
package of brown dye. All that Is
necessary Is to turn a little of the
"browning" into the last rinsing water,
just as one would "blue" white clothes.
An Interesting comment on a new
vogue In portraits "on the continent
Is noted in the letter of a young Port
land matron who Is now in Paris. The
new type of painting is called the
boudoir or dishabille portrait, and In
stead of donning the classic drape or
the formal evening gown, the subject
sits in a fluffy and filmy mass of deli
cate laces and satins. Elaborate
boudoir wraps In dainty pinks and
blues, with glimpses of be-rlbboned and
lace-frilled lingerie, and satin slippers
with silken hosiery, discreetly dis
played, all figuring in the picture. The
artlstio possibilities of the neglige de
luxe have been demonstrated in isome
beautiful dishabille portraits of for
eign women of fashion, and it is the
thing of the moment to be pajnted in
some elaborate lounging robe, with
much display of dainty frills and lacy
lingerie.
-
If you wish something new, not dif
ficult, and extremely pretty in the way
of porch or cottage cushions, try ap
pliqueing cut-out flowers from gay
chintz or cretonne, upon tan or cream
linen. After you have cut out the flow
ers from the cretonne, baste them
through the centers, to the linen
square, then baste them around the
edges very securely. Over the raw
edge work a simple over-and-over
stitch broad enough to cover all raw
borders and to mark a heavy line of
color around the floral pattern Fur
ther ornamentation for your pillow will
not be necessary.
Now Is the time when all good
housewives and home seamstresses
may fairly revel ' in dress-goods and
household bargains. Even if one's purse
be painfully slender, there is oppor
tunity to gather In dainty remnants of
flowered mull, pretty dimities, o
other sheer and attractive materials,
against the disheartening demands of
next Spring To buy and lay away
may not be considered economy by
those who are prone to figure closely
the interest on the outlay, neverthe
less, it is the shrewd and discerning
shopper who purchases her dainty
Spring materials in late Summer, after
the prices have broken, who is happiest
over her Easter gown, and who Inci
dentally pays as much as 50 per cent
less for it. To have the sewing chest
well filled with dainty remnants, which
are as so many dormant Spring and
Summer dresses for next season. Is a
pleasure any wholesome housewife will
enjoy, and If well-chosen pick-ups in
pretty laces, ribbons and embroideries,
gathered in at the temptingly low fig
ures of the present moment are in
cluded, her satisfaction and pleasure
are increased. There need be no rush
or confusion in the making up of the
dainty frocks for Spring, and they can
be planned and started as soon as one
learns the trend of the . Spring fash
ions. Where there are a number of
girls In the family, this chest filling
takes on the nature of the bee at its
honey gathering, for such materials will
always be needed in the future Just
when the prices are soaring. Such
dimes and dollars as can be squeezed
apart from the needs of the day, can
surely be well invested Just now by
the discerning young matron or
mother.
...
No longer need we know the baked
potato with the under side burned to
a crisp, spoiling the mealy perfection
of the appetizing, butter-smothered
tuber! Some kind genius has Invented
a potato-baking device to prevent this
little culinary annoyance, and some
equally kind factory has bought up the
inventor's patents and Is turning out
by the thousands this simple little first
aid to trouble housewives who have
for so long been harrowed by the fear
of either "underdoing" potato or
burning the already scorching skin. The
new potato baker is nothing else than
a flat metal pan, equipped with up
standing spikes, upon which the pota
toes are Impaled while baking. The
spikes are merely the upturned trl
agles of metal made by cutting V
shaped holes in the pan.
Menus for One
Week '
BY LILIAN ttt.i.k
Tnesday.
Clam soup.
Roast Lamb shoulder. Mint Jelly.
Potato croquettes, baked. Green peas.
Tomato salad.
Frozen rice creaxxu
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Green pea soup.
Lamb souffle. Delmonlco roll potatoes.
Stuffed beet salad Mayonnaise.
Peach cobbler cream.
Coffee,
Thursday.
Tomato bouillon.
Veal cutlets Vienna style. Wax beans.
Broiled potatoes au t rat in.
Lettuce and green pepper salad.
Orange Ice. Cup cajces.
Coffee.
Friday.
'Vegetable soup.
Broiled salmon. Cucumbers.
Buttered now potatoes.
Lettuce and pear salad Mayonnaise.
Floating island. .
Coffee.
Saturday.
Iced or hot bouillon.
Spanish beef with macaroni.
Green peas.
Cabbage nut and peper salad.
Iced watermelon. WaXers.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Muskmelon.
Chicken pie hot or Jellied.
Scalloped potatoes. Squash a la Creole.
Lettuce tomato and chopped olive salad.
Peach or berry trifle.
Coffee.
Monday.
Glblet soup.
Broiled meat cakes. Mashed potatoes.
Sweet corn.
Spring salad.
Blackberry puffs.
Coffee.
Vbcs for "Waxed Paper.
PORTLAND, July 28. (To the Editor
Woman's Department.) While talking
about small things that are very useful
In a household, please don't overlook:
waxed paper. I am a waxed paper
crank. I use it for every imaginable
purpose, and you cannot imagine what
a nice, clean, handy help it is. It is
very cheap when bought In quantity,
and can be used In so many ways that
It is invaluable. Besides being the only
proper thing to wrap around sand
wiches for a luncheon, to keep them
fresh and moist and crisp, it is ex
cellent for tipping out a cake on, and
much cheaper and less troublesome
than buttered paper. It makes an ex
cellent temporary cover for the library
books we all love to read and send
back unsoiled to the library. It is
better for this than common paper, as
it does not tear easily; it Is also trans
parent, so we can read the title of the
book, and does not soil easily, being
glazed. In putting up picnic lunches, I
wrap everything in waxed paper, as it
makes the lunch exactly as nice as
when it was first put up, and it holds
the deviled eggs together perfectly,
keeping the flavors from mixing with
other food of the lunch. I even make
cornucopias of the waxed paper to hold
pickles and preserves in. I have nu
merous other uses for it, as will any
one else after they have It in the house
a little while. MRS. T. J. Gr
Laugh, it off.
6. EL Kiser, In Judg.
When you totter 'neath. a care,.
Laugh it off.
If your butter's full of hair,
Laush it off.
If you're married to a shrew.
Or your butcher's bill is due.
Or you're tortured by a shoe.
Laugh it off.
If you're mangled ra & wreck.
Laugh it off.
If a creak is in your neck.
Laugh it off.
If a brick shoved from a wall
Lands upon you in Its fall,
Io not be "put out" at all
Laugh it off.
If a wasp lights on your cheek.
Laugh it off.
If the lady's father's toe,
Coming upward from below,
Iurts you e you swiftly go.
Laugh it off.
If a fist strikes on your beak.
Laugh it off.
........
COLLARLESS
FOR THE
A GROWING girl's -wardrobe always
needs some additions at this time,
for the hot weather, if nothing else,
demands & change of style and material.
The mammas who are now looking up
seasonable effects for these supplemen
FIGURE B.
tary dresses; which fast-growing, some
special occasion or forgetfulness at the
beginning of Summer has made neces
sary, will do well to consider the last
trend of fashion. This is for collarless
bodies, elbow sleeves and either the
daintiest of wash materials or else Sum
mer silks of a childlike simplicity. "Thou
Shalt not be too fine," is Dame Fashion's
first commandment in hot weather to
the child, however well placed. White
frocks are In her dearest favor, or else
she prescribes colors of a flower delicacy
and such dainty trimmings as would be
suitable, on a smaller scale, for dolls.
The bebe or poupee doll and baby
styles now distinguish all the best gar
ments In every department, worn by well
dressed little girls.
In both wash materials and Summer
silks there are now fabulous bargains to
be found in the shops, some of these in
the very newest textures, whether shown
in remnants or In the piece. French per
cales In a soft, fine weave have dropped
to the low price of 15 cents a yard; eilk
warp dotted chiffons likewise a cotton
material are going at 3 cents; swiss
ponginette which is an English fabrio
much used for the little imported frocks
also sells for 25 cents. This is 46
Inches wide, so a very small quantity
would be needed for the Bimple little
frock.
Polka-dot handkerchief muslin some
times' with delicate flower sprays, over
the dotting which Is a delightfully cool
fabric. Is IS cents a yard and there are
silk and cotton crapes of French manu
facture which may be made most at
tractive with ribbon trimmings, priced
28 cents the yard. These are in every
color of the rainbow and .they may be
trimmed with , white lace or have the
ribbon garniture match.
Indeed there is no excuse for missy
not having a fine little hot weather
frock if her mother can sew, for all the
models are simple to an astonishing de
gree, and with a little taste a very small
expenditure will turn out the right thing.
And now I ask you to take a look af
Figure A. shown herewith, for I want
HOT WEATHER FROCKS
LITTLE AND THE BIG GIRL
ts demonstrate with this picture how a
charming: little party frock can be
planned at small cost.
The bodice and sleeves of this dress
are cut in one, the style being- variously
known as Russian, Oriental and peasant.
The yoke and bands that run down the
top of the sleeves' are also made in a
single piece and the full skirt, which is
attached to the bodice, is trimmed with
three deep tuaks. A soft messaline silk
sash girdles the waist, with a rosette and
ends at the front.
Now the least knowledge of dressmak
ing will show that only a softly falling
texture and one preferably thin will
make up this much-gathered dress ef
fectively. So why not consider the silk
warp cotton chiffons at 25 cents a yard-
For the dress 7Vi yards of material 27
Inches wide w'U be needed, and the yoke
calls for a half yard of all-over lace
and this for a 12-year-old girl. So as the
lace may be had for 75 cents, the cost
of such a dainty little frock, the sash
excepted,' would be about $2.65. A soft
Summer silk would also be charming for
this dress, as would veiling, marquisette,
mull and like textures. The style Is
little too elaborate for a frock that would
need much washing.
In Figure B is given a simpler gown,
which would do admirably for party
wear for any girl from 6 to 12 years of
age. and the model admits the use of
any tub texture as well as non-washable
ones of a very fine nature.
The little frock is made with a tucked
bodice, with a low roound neck and open
sleeves falling short of the elbow. The
skirt Is gathered full and finished with
a hem and a single tuck slightly nar
rower. Here the material used Is a
fancy voile de sole, with an embroidery
on s-llk for the neck and sleeve bands,
the soft girdle and bow matching this.
A cotton voile would likewise do for this
dress and plain silk bands would be
used on the bodice instead of the cm
broidery. A colored mull, with a dainty
lace Insertion, would be very pretty and
youthful In effect, while white handker
chief linen, with hand embroidery on the
neck and sleeves, would be dainty. In
cidentally . however, I must tell you that
with merely the substitution of bands
of the goods' on the bodice and worn with
a leather belt this dress could be of the
roost modest wash texture.
For the 10-year-ol4 girl six yards of
'
single width goods would be needed and
If this costs 35 cents a yard the dainty
frock would be only J2.10 without the
trimming. If a fancy veiling is used,
and economy is an object, get a light
weight taffeta for the bands three-quarters
of a yard, for that much will be re
quired for the shaping and edge them
with a narrow soutache.
The two remaining frocks are especial
ly adapted to wash materials and they
are for girls of the same ages 6 to 13.
Figure C, which has a Gibson bodice
with Dutch neck and a skirt In box
plaits, is here made of blue and white
percale, with a little white linen treated
to simple hand embroidery on the bodice.
Allover Hamburg embroidery, however,
could very well be used here, or the
waist trimming could be made in a plain
color. -
For a girl of 10 64 yards, 27 Inches
wide, would be required, and since vry
fine little percales may be had for 124
cents and really beautiful insertion for
15, it can be seen how cheap .the dress
would be.
A heavy linen or a silk with some body
would likewise respond to this treatment,
lace or a contrasting silk trimming the
latter texture and Hamburg embroidery
the former.
The last model. Figure D, in also
adapted to a heavy linen, or a percale
with body, but it would be equally pretty
in veiling or a childish silk, and without
the embroidery here used the model
would be useful for the most practical
dress.
Here a white corded pique Is employed,
together with a thick lace banding two
inches wide, this shaping a plain strip
ing at the front of the dress between
plaits and going about the square neck
and at the bottom of the elbow sleeves.
A very handsome pique may be had for
35 cents & yard and a really handsome'
lace be found at the same price, and 6
yards of single-width goods will make
such a dress for a girl of 10.
Finally, let me ask you particularly to
notice the various little sleeves, for I
wish to say a special word concerning
them. The gathered sleeve which Is
shown with the first dress is only suit
ed to this cut-in-one bodice style, for the
moment a full sleeve of this sort is put
in the armhole the style Is lost. The open .
sleeves of the next dress likewise havq
a definite requirement the bodice must
be low In the neck to make It accord
with the hot-weather look of the sleeves.
The sleeves of the last two frocks, be
ing of the shirt waist sort, would need
to be trimmed with pretty turn-back
cuffs or lace frills to look well with a
really smart gown. MART DEAN.
For Child rens
Party Wear
FROM the dainty hair ribbon to the
wee slipper or pump, the little
girl's party equipment demands no end
of exacting details and her little '
brother's gala getup. too, requires strict
attention to the small things, the socks
and pumps and gloves which are so
easily forgotten by the busy- mother-
The correct thing in party footwear
for little girls this season is the pump
with the ankle strap. This is usually
chosen in blue or pink kid to match
the color scheme of the dress, but white
kid and black patent leather are also
used. These pumps are worn with hose
to match, either in silk or lisle thread.
For little girls that is, girls under 11
or 12 socks are still as popular as
ever; though, of course, even the little
tots sometimes appear at parties in
stockings. Little boys wear white. silk
or lisle thread socks or stockings, usu
ally without any color. The plain pat
ent leather pump continues to be the
correct thing for boys, both little aud
big.
Gloves should always be worn at a
dancing party, although there Is no
reason why they should not be dis
carded after the dancing is over. Little
girls have long silk gloves to match
the ribbons on their frocks, and little
boys the one-button " white thread
gloves. The chief advantage of this
style is that of serviceability, for both
eilk and cotton gloves are washable
and infinitely cooler than those of kid
or chamois.
The hair ribbon is surely the most
bothersome of all accessories and a de
tail that nowadays costs a pretty penny.
This Summer fashion dictates very wide
hair ribbons of - the same width, In
fact, as those used for the sash. Of
course, there are some' mothers who
always prefer the light blues and light
pinks for party wear, and these colors
are always becoming to the fair skins
of children. However, tho very new
est thing Is the flowered ribbons, and
such flowered ribbons as are a real joy
to behold. They are printed in the
most delicately harmonized shades of
green, violet, blue, grays and yellows
that the combined efforts of the de
signers and the manufacturers could
devise. '
The brilliant Roman stripes are also
fashionable once more, and surely these
gay colors lend greatly to the fresh
daintiness of the little lingerie frocks.
Except for very little girls, the sashes
are not tied In the back, but either on
the side or on the side front. The bows
are usually made in the ribbon once
and for all, so as to keep the sash free
from creases.
The pretty fashion of running the
ribbon under the sheer lingerie frock
and drawing it through only where
the bow Is tied a fashion popular with
grownups as well has been adopted In
the newest hand-embroidered French
party frocks. Besides the sashes made
from ribbons little girls have made
up sashes of satin or silk designed to
go with their party dresses. These are .
usually finished with tassels or rosettes
of the silk -or satin.
As children's thin dresses are always
made with round or Dutch neck, never
with a sign of a collar, a pretty though
not necessary adjunct to the gala get
up is the string of gold beads or lock
et and chain. Good taste tolerates only
the simplest of Jewelry.
For Summer wear some mothers pro
vide their little daughters with white
linea or pique coats for party occa
sions; but other mothers, finding that
these linen coats crumple the dainty
sleeves and ruffles of the lingerie frock,
prefer light broadcloth or silk capes. .
These are to be found in the shops
In all colors and ' for the littlest tot
of 2 or 3 -years as well as In misses'
sizes large enough for a woman.
Especially desirable at a dancing par
ty are little handkerchiefs and fan bags
that are sold at the shops In all suit
able colors or which can be made at
home from an extra halY yard of the
Bash ribbon. These are fastened at. the
child's Waist and are quite indispens
able for the handkerchief, which should
be kept well out of slghV