The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, July 03, 1910, SECTION SIX, Page 2, Image 60

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One of the Number Now Living in Portland
UTellsrof People Who Accompanied Ae
Great Humorist on the Memorable Voyage
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WETLIa veil, each one of us few left
of that delightful nJ peculiarly '
unique journey in foreign lands,
has been Bitting under his own -ine and
tig tree, and as he or ahe sadly ruminat
ed on time's chang-es, has thought him
elf or heraelf the last of the Quaker
City's passengers.
But to you, the death of Mark Twain
has stirred out from their seclusion a few
of the old guard.
I learned from Dr. Boys, of Portland,
that Dr. A. Reeves Jackson was dead,
1ut that his widow. Mrs. Julia Newell
Jackson, was living In Chicago. Having
lost all my pictures and memoranda
through fire la San Francisco, I con
cluded to write to Mrs. Jackson, did so
and received from her a most delightful
letter, expressing great Joy to find a
trace of "one of us." Mrs. Jackson to
my Infinite gratification loaned me her
. precious photographs, which were very
cautiously intrusted to "Wells-Fargo Ex
press as great treasure to be carefully
taken care of.
These photographs illuminate this arti
cle. They were taken In traveling dress
in Conatantinople. We seemed to have
mutually gone picture mad on arrival In
the Bosphorus. I cannot remember why
we all had pictures taken there. I say
all; of course, I do not mean all of the
ship's passengers, but about a hundred,
our little party, among whom are those
spoken of in "Innocents Abroad."
Through the courtesy of The Oregonian
I was lately given a copy of the Brooklyn
Kagle which contained a long Interview
with Mr. Stephen Griswold, a young
passenger then, now an elderly gentle
man living in Brooklyn. So there are, as
Tar as I know now, only three of us: Mrs.
Julia Newell Jackson, Mr. Stephen M.
Griswold and myself. We three were
their quite young. Many of the others at
that time were already middle-aged and
even older.
As has been said before, the idea of
this tour originated in Henry Ward
"Beecher's Church, and was planned and
brought to a finish by Mr. Beecher and
Captain C. C Duncan, a retired ship's
master whom Mr. Beecher had met In
EGngland and who came over to Brooklyn,
N. T., to live and be near his admired
and adored pastor.
Mr. Beecher, like all ministers, de
sired to visit the Holy Land, Egypt, etc.,
and In doing so wished to have some
of his church people go with him, but
alas, like Moses, he did not then reach
;he promised land, something Important
Hcept him from going. He was the last
jto bid us good bye, with tears in his
eyes and the first to welcome us home
i-with radiant smiles.
v ' B It remembered that traveling then
4n the Holy Land. Egypt, and Europe
generally was considered perilous and
difficult. Days and days were spent on
horseback in Palestine, and those who
jihad achieved such a Journey were
narked characters and were pointed
out everywhere they went as prominent
actors are on Broadway. .
( Mr. Moses Beach, owner and proprie
tor of the New York Sun, who was to
make the tour with his daughter, gave
reoeption at his beautiful Brooklyn
jiome. The evening was passed delight
fully and the passengers . made thor
oughly at home and were generally in
troduced. So we started out as one great big
family. We had a stanch, roomy sh'p,
which followed us from port to port.
We would pack our valises (we did not
call them suit cases, nor grips, then),
and vanish Into France, Switzerland,
Italy, etc., knowing that our good and
delightful ship was dancing in the sun
lighted ripples of the Medlteranean sea,
waiting our arrival, only that we might
repack and start off again -while she
went on further in her blue sea.
It would take a whole book to de
scribe the delights and comforts of .that
voyage. From Mr. Stephen Griswold's
Rrttcle I have taken the passenger
list) the only one, I think, in existence,
and here it is:
Captain, Charles C. Duncan.
Executive Officer, Ira Bursley.
First Officer. Wm. Jones.
Second Officer. Mr. Burdick. .
Third Officer, Mr. Hinton. ,
Frrst Engineer. John Harris.
First Engineer's Assistants, McDonald
and McArthur.
Purser, Robert M. Vail.
And now for the passengers: ,,
Allen. A. B.. New York City.
Andrews. Dr. E., Albany, N. Y.
Barry, Major James G., St. Louis, mo.
Beach. M. S. and Miss E. B., Brooklyn,
N. Y.
Beckwlth, Thomas S., Cleveland, Mo.
Bell. Mr. and Mrs. R. A. ' E., Ports
mouth, O.
. Birch, Dr. G. B., Hannibal, O.
Bond, Mr. and Mrs. John W. aid Miss
Ada, St. Paul, Minn.
Bond, Miss Mary Plaquemine, La.
Brown, Dr. L. and Miss Kate L., Circle-
ville, O.
Bullard, the Rev. Henry, Wayland,
Chadeyne. Miss Carrie D.. Jersey City.
Church, William F., Cincinnati. O.
Clemens, Samuel L., San Francisco.
Crane, Albert and A., New Orleans.
Crocker, Mr. and -irs. T. D., Cleve-,
land, O.
Cutter, Bloodgood H., Little Neck, L. I.
Davis, J. W., New York City.
Denny, Colonel W. R., Winchester,, Va.
Dlmon, Mr. and Mrs. Fred, Norwalk,
Duncan, Mrs: C. C, George and H.,
(Brooklyn, N. Y.
Fairbanks, Mrs. A. W., Cleveland, O. ;
Foster, Colonel J. H.. Pittsburg. Pa.
Gibson, Mr. and Airs. William. James
town, Pa.
Green, Mrs. J. O., Washington City, D. C.
Greenwood, John, Jr., New York City.
Greer, F. H., Boston. Mass.
Griswold, Mr. and Mrs. S. M, Brooklyn,
N. Y.
Haldeman, J. S., Harrisburg, Pa.
Heiss, Goddard. Philadelphia, Pa.
Hoel, Captain W. R., Waynesville, O.
Hutchinson, the Rev. E. Carter, A. D., St.
Louis, Mo.
Hyde, James K., Hydeville, Vt.
Isham, John G., Cincinnati, O.
Jackson, A. R., M. D., Stroudsburg, Pa.
James, William E., Boston, Mass.
Jenkins F. F., Boston, Mass.
Kinney, Colonel Peter, Portsmouth, O.
Krauss, George W., Harrisburg, Pa.
Langdon, Charles J., Blmira, N. Y.
Larowe, Mrs. Nina, San Francisco, Cal.
Leary, Daniel D., New York City.
Lee, Mrs. S. G., Brooklyn, N. Y.
Lockwood, Mr. and Mrs. B. K., Norwalk,
. Conn.
McDonald, Louis, Bristol, England.
Moody, Captain Lucius, Canton. N. Y.
Moulton, Julius, St. Louis, Mo.
Nelson, Arba, Alton, III.
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Nesbit, Dr. B. B.. Louisville. Ky.
Nesbit, Thomas B., Fulton, Mo.
Newell, Miss Julia, Janesvllle, Wis.
Parsons, Samuel B., New York City.
Payne, Dr. and Mrs. J. H., Boston, Mass.
Quereau, the Rev. G. W., Aurora, 111.
Sanford, S. N., Cleveland, O.
Serfaty, M. A. Gibraltar.
Severance, Mr. and Mrs. S. L., Cleveland,
Sexton, Nicholas New York City.
Slote, Daniel. New York City
Van Nostrand, John A., Greenville. N. J.
But Mr. Griswold omitted the name
of one important passenger, one that ia
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NEW YORK. July 2. Special.) This is a recent photograph of t
Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney, the exceptionally clever daughter of the 'I
; late CorneMus Vanderbilt. who married the eldest son of the late Wil-
' Ham C. Whitney. Mrs. Whitney has won genuine fame as a sculptress. t
She has a studio in New York and another one at picturesque point on J
the cliffs near her mother's residence in Newport, overlooking the sea. I
persistent, through thick and thin, and
will not be suppressed; I mean Dan
Cupid. ' Oh, yes, he was with us, arrows,
scant costume and all; and he did hla
work, perhaps not as much as he
wished, but he was measurably success
ful. Did any one ever hear of a steam
er on which he was not a passenger?
One of the masculine quartet men
tioned in "Innocents Abroad" was
"Jack" John A. Von Nostrand. only a
youth then, somewhat under the care
of Miss Carrie Chadeyne, of Jersey City.
Most boys of 15 or 16 have some ner
vous grimace or peculiarity. Jack's
was to pull his ear lobe almost con
stantly when walking, talking or read
ing. Consequently his youthful guar
dian was as constantly exclaiming:
"Jack, let your ear alone!" Then we
all took it up and there was a general
chorus of "Jack, let your ear alone."
Poor Jack, it was severe, but his ear
was saved. Jack, however, was a
charming, Well-bred boy, and although
he was constantly with older men that
were pretty jolly, was not spoiled.
The "Doctor," A. Reeves Jackson, who
was from Stroudsburg, Pa., was an ac
complished gentleman, surpassingly
witty,' but the wit and humor were at
tended with an exceedingly grave face,
which made the hearers laugh all the
more. It was Dr. Jackson who almost
drove the guides crary. When they
would tell their tales of Columbus and
other noted ones, he would ask with a
perfectly serious air if the one spoken
of was dead, etc., and when did he die?
and told them he had not heard of this
death. The guides would stamp their
feet, tear their hair and begin all over
again, wondering at-the stupidity of
the "Americano." Dr. Jackson removed
to Chicago and became eminent. He
died a few years ago. Most of the voy
age Dr. Jackson had heart trouble, but
he did not find out the cause of It till
some three years after his return.
Cupid had shot an arrow and it had
gone straight home; it rankled until
Chicago and a minister managed to re
lieve the situation. Miss Julia Newell,
from Janesvllle, Wis., a fine writer and
charming woman, came within Cupid's
range also. The same arrow that fell
upon the Doctor as it flashed by
brushed her, and the minister and Chi
cago poured balm upon her heart
wounds and the Doctor's, and made
them one, to live happily ever afterward.
Very early in the voyage Cupid began
his first work. Mr. Robert Vail, son of
H. M. Vail, a noted banker of New
York, went with us as purser. He was
a very young man and very romantic.
At Constantinople he left us, and all at
Love's demand. The United States con-J
sul had an Italian gentleman for secre
tary. The Italian geitlemah had a very
beautiful sister. Mr. Vail could speak
no Italian, and the young lady could
speak no English. They had tq depend
on their eyes, love-lighted by Cupid.
They made a very hurried marriage and
went Immediately back to New York. I
recently read a magazine article on
New York society, in -which the circum
stances of this marriage were men
tioned, and it was claimed to be very
happy. Here was a case of marrying
in haste, but not repenting at leisure.
Mark Twain' s photograph is exceed
ingly Ilka him as he looked then, be
fore he took to white dress suits, and
before his locks had whitened. He was
at that time about 35. Last of the quar
tet was "Dan," Mr. Slote, a very jolly
and charming man of New York City.
We had another distinguished Daniel
Daniel Leary of Leary Bros., New
York. The Leary Bros, owned the
Quaker City. Mr. Leary was our Beau
Brummel; he had his valet with .him.
It was then the fashion for men to
wear the hair quite long. Mr. Leary
every morning made a most elaborate
toilet, at which the valet assisted. The
crowning duty of the servant was to
curl his master's locks with the iron,
and if they did not keep in curl, to
curl them again. Though we rode
horseback all day in tb4 Holy Land
and slept in tents, still those dark
Byronic curls were never allowed to
grow straight. Although leaning; too
largely toward foppery, this second
Daniel of ours was well read, a good
conversationalist, and helped to make
merry both camp and ship's saloon.
Once, while camped under the walls of
Jericho. the cry was raised, "The
Bedouins are coming!" (the Bedouins
are .the robbers of the desert), and as
men'were scarcer than women, he gath
ered four or five of us under his wing
and stood ready to fight, till the last.
Fortunately the alarm was false, but
the dude of the curls had proved his
courage. Mr. Leary died in New York
years ago.
Dr. and Mrs. Paine were from Bos
ton. They were quite literary people,
but they also were quite given to good
eating. The doctor would most always
classify the different cities he passed
through according to the material com
forts obtained there; as, for Instance,
Venice: "Oh, yes! Fine city. Most
excellent hotel, fine cooking,." etc
"Verona! Hotel very bad! Milan, good
eating, very good!" and so on. I give
here a second picture of myself, one
taken in New York City in the Spring
before going abroad in June.
I have included this picture because
I think it has a peculiar interest on
account of the coat made of the finest
mink fur. This sacque or coat was
the first fur garment ever made with
sleeves. Hitherto fur had been made
into all sorts of neck and shoulder
pieces, but nobody had dreamed that
it could be shaped into a coat with
sleeves. It was displayed in Gunther's
window. I had -arrived from Califor
nia's warm climate, and this garment
looked very good to me. I was sure
it would heat up my chilling blood, and
it was purchased and sent to my hotel.
Although New York was a large city,
people would turn on Broadway to
look at the wonder a fur coat, shaped
and with sleeves. At the time I ar
rived In New York . the "tilters," an
enormous hoop skirt, had come in fash
ion. We had worn hoop skirts a long
time, but this was the latest mode, the
very latest. I had one on beneath the
fur sack. It was five yards around,
and to cover it gracefully the dress
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LONDON, July t (Special.) Isabel Jay is one of the most
beautiful women in light opera. She appeared for many years in the
Gilbert & Sullivan operas at the Savoy Theater in London. Then she
married a title. But the marriage proved unhappy, and recently she
separated from her husband and made her re-appearance in "The
Balkan Princess," to the delight of London.
skirt had to be at least seven yards It
circumference, and also made with (
train, because the hoops think of Iti
had a train. This was liable to catcl
on every nail. Getting into a car, om
nibus or carriage was an art indeed.
Everybody wore them, and to be with
out them was immodest snowed the
figure too much!
Mrs. 8. G. Lee was from Brooklyn, wife
of a wholesale druggist, and was pos
sessed of an unlimited letter of credit.
She was going to a sister who lived in
Paris and had an exalted social position.
The sister called upon us and made
things generally pleasant. One day she
came with invitations to a court ball,
where we should have seen the Empress
Eugenie and Efriperor Napoleon, Duchess
of Metternlch. etc. But alas, we had
neither the time nor the wardrobe In our
limited trunks for court festivities. It
would be useless to sny what we saw,
because now eo many descriptions are
given of the palaces, churches, art gal
leries, 'etc., that one knows It all whether
he goes or stays.
But those gleaming marble walls and
columns, those rounded domes, those
everlasting arches, those museums have
been there for centuries, have seen vari
ous generations pass before them in the
past, are seeing now and will see them
in centuries to come. And all who go see
about the same things and, seeing, forget
Our visit to Emperor Alexander II of
Russia and his court, at Malta, on the
Black Sea, was by special Invitation. Our
Secretary of State at Washingtou City
had given us letters commending us to
the attention of foreign governments and
of course this was a great advantage.
The Russian court was at Yalta, a town
on the Black Sea. and was living as sim
ply as possible, was throwing court eti
quette to the winds, was trying to be
merely men and women. We had come
into the Black Sea to visit Odessa. We
had already been to Sebastapol and were
going back again when the Emperor's in
vitation came. Row boats decked in
scarlet and black cushions and trimmed
with scarlet on the sides, came to out
ship for us. Each boat was rowed by 10
men in uniform. We stepped from the
boats onto a crimson carpet leading to a
canopied landing. The ladles were placed
in carriages and the gentlemen rode on
horssback. We made quite a procession.
The company assembled on the beauti
ful velvet lawn and the Emperor and
Empress, Dukes. Duchesses, Princes, etc.,
came out to meet us. As most Europeans
are good linguists, we found them nearly
all speaking excellent English. They
were quite chatty and informal. The im
pression made on us was that the men
were all handsome and most of the la
dies rather plain looking. The present
Duchess of Edinburgh was then little
flaxen-haired Russian Princess Marie.
The Grand Duke Serglus was a little boy.
After the reception we went inside and
had Russian tea and much further chat
ting. We then went on to the house of
the Grand Duke Michael, the Emperor's
eldest brother, and there we had more
tea, more chatting and walks about the
grounds, till it was time to go home. And
all this was seen and done on our part
without towering head feathers, bother
some long trains, and perilous backstep
ping from the presence, as would have
been the case in St. Petersburg.
One of the thorns among our roses was
tho veTy frequent fumigations our bag
gag and ourselves had to undergo wtin
coming into port. It was altogether
funny. We would be shut up in a great
room and while nearly suffocating from
whatever they thought necessary to born
under our nostrils and force Into our
lungs, we were compelled to take every
thing out of our trunks and hang them
on clotheslines. As we were all shut up
together, there was a very amusing dis
play of both men and women's clothing. '
We passed through all that long
Journey and arrived safely home with
out serious sickness to any of the pas
sengers. We lost a sailor in the har
bor at Constantinople. He had been
ashore and as usual got drunk. They
brought him back to the ship. When
nobody was watching he Jumped Into
the water thinking he could swim to
the shore. We heard that dreadful cry
"man overboard. The boats were low
ered but the poor fellow went down
before they could rescue him. It was
a very mournful thing to see the boats
come back and know the search was
vain. We who saw it all did not sleep
that night.
We were at Paris during the first
great exposition and in the height of
the reign of Napoleon HI and Eugenie.
We saw them at the exposition and
driving in the Bois de Boulogne sev
eral times at the highest plnacle
of glory then and afterward a fate
that at that time could not have seemed
possible in any way.
This altogether successful and splen
did Journey was a rare event to come
into one's life, and is remembered and
looked back to with keenest pleasure.
When we were all gathered into the
ship and her prow was turned toward
home somebody started up: "Homeward
Bound." "Out on an ocean all bound
less we ride, we are homeward bound,
homeward bound." Everybody Joined In
at once and I do not think that song
was ever sung anywhere with the en
thusiasm that it then was as it poured
from about a hundred throats. Home
end homeward bound. Great words, in
deed. How great nobody knows till
he has been a long time in foreign