6
TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MAT 8, 1910.
NEW FLAME COLOR IS DECIDEDLY
VIVID, BUT ACCEPTED IN THE EAST
ON Wednesday, in the suit depart
ment of one of the big shops, an in
terested but somewhat doubtful
feminine coterie was gathered about a
tunnlng new short-coat suit of flame
colored serge, quite the prettiest color
tone imaginable, but with the glass but
tons that ranged down the front of the
coat and its collar and cuffs of rich cream
In some basket-woven material, it
teemed quite past the allowable ad
jective "striking." There were whispers
of "pretty, but ho loud," "I just love it,
but I really wouldn't dare." "I am just
crazy about it, but I know my husband
would kill me 1f I took it home." and
smch other comments as echoed the gen
eral sentiment of admiration, but discreet
hesitation.
The new flaniw color for walking suits,
ihowever, i3 considered quite allowable in
the East, and the Parisians, according
to advices from abroad, are fairly revel
ing in it. Black and cream are. for the
most part, used as trimming with the
flame tone. The combination of flame
find black are beginning to appear in
come of tlie modish new millinery.
The patent leather belt, in all its crisp,
dressy freshness, is back again, and is
much worn with the Russian blouse suits.
In most of the showings of the local
shops, the. Russian suits of rajah. Sum
mer sArge, and similar materials, come
with to belts, one being of the patent
Jeather. and the other of the material,
so that personal preference can be ex
ercised. The patent leather belts are
cut with a slight dip and curve to the
front, so that they fall gracefully into
the waist line. This is not the exag
gerated dip jot the old "Buster Brown"
lelt, familiar with the cravenette coat
or several seasons ago, but just enough
curve is given to the belt to avoid the
stiff, ungraceful effects that come of the
perfectly straight and flat belt in any
tiff goods.
Along with the rest of the distinctly
feminine accessories, the pendant orna
ment is returning, and at the notion
counters of the Portland stores, as well
a all the Jewelry stores, one sees all
manner of lockets, "placques," coin re
ceptacles, etc., hung upon Jeweled chains
of sufficient length to hang the pretty
trinket as low as the waist line or even
below.
For the birthday of a young girl last
week, her sister was seen to choose a
cleverly contrived "car-fare purse" of
silver, hung upon a long chain of silver
links with amethysts set in at intervals.
The purse was Just large enough to hold
a silcer quarter and a few nickels and
dimes, and the outside was in a quaintly
carved silver design of dull finish.
The vanity bag appears in this guise,
fuid many of the pendant trinkets are
for ornament merely; among the latter
are balls of cut Jet, which are rather
large, and cameo "placques," some of
them rarely beautiful. 3
And mow we are back again to the
round-toed, or "stub-toed" style of slip
per and shoe. These are a.ppearlng on
the streets and at the dancing and din
ner parties generally, and , those who
have the short, thick "Dutch" kind of
feet are heavy of heart. Quite pretty
and "cute" enough is the trim little short
pedal extremity when .bared or neatly
stockinged, but when the attractive effect
is striven for in "shoeing" such a foot,
only the elongated and sharply narrowed
style of boot or slipper can produce the
desired result. The ultimatum has gone
forth, however, and it will be a case of
"put the little shoes away," for all
modish maids who have lain in a. supply
of the sharp-toed styles. Quite the
bluntest and shortest-looking boots im
aginable peeped forth from under the
natty frock of a Portland Academy girl
out at the Golf Thinks one afternoon this
last week. She said that she had packed
away all her other shoes and. party slip
pers, and had accepted -the decree for
the stubby variety without further de
mur, tiince a girl friend in New York
had written that the stub toes were com
ing this way and would sweep the whole
country.
A noticeable feature in the local mo
diste's establishment is the number of
smart frocks and suits being made up of
combinations of material, such as serge
with foulard or rajah. A peep in at the
fitting-room of one fashionable modiste
on Thursday revealed a slender girlish
figure in process of the last "trying-on"
for a handsome afternoon suit. Very
dark blue, light-weight serge was the
foundation material, and with this for
trimming was used blue rajah silk with
large white polka dots. Long revers of
the polka-dotted silk, with a rolling col
lar, and deep cuffs of the same, lent an
air of distinction to the coat, the pockets
of which were also tipped with the ra
jah. Even in the white serges, collars, re
vers and cuffs of dotted or striped silk
are being shown, and these invariably
give a. becoming touch of color to the
costume.
Gome weeks ago one of Portland's
smartest society women appeared in a
tailored Spring costume, wearing with It
a plain Milan hat draped simply with a
long automobile veil. This simple treat
ment of the reliable and graceful Milan
is now appearing In local millinery dis
plays, and one hat was noted last week
with an embroidered monogram in self
color, adding an Individual and personal
touch to the drape. The monogram was
of medium size, and the veil was so
.draped as to bring the artistic lettering
a little to the left of the front.
The monogram craze is taking hold
with a zest that threatens to make this
pretty and artistic mark of individuality
rather common. Yet so long as the odi
ously4 Impossible pins and brooches la
belled "Nellie," "Susie," etc, are avoided
we have much to be thankful for.. The
personal touch, in all things, particularly
in matters of dress, is a- delicate matter,
and that which makes for individuality
is quite a different thing from marks of
such personal distinction as should ap
pear only on articles of invisible lingerie,
for idenlficatlon in laundry processes.
PONGEE BONNET NEW IDEA
Headgear of This Material One of Most Practical Suggestions Yet Made
for Autoists Boudoir Cap Is Popular Fancy.
AMONG the motor millinery lnnno
vatlons is the pongee bonnet, and
this seems about the most prac
tical offering yet for motoring. A
charming young girl of fluffy hair and
many dimples, who drives her big car
with all the confidence and skill of a
professional chauffeur, was seen on
Thursday speeding along Willamette
boulevard wearing the daintiest possi
ble little bonnet of shirred pongee
perched upon her tresses. The model
was exactly like a child's bonnet, with
a hig puff crown and little plaited frills
around the face. The strings were of
fluffy mallne, that blew out behind
airily.
Some trim and cool-looking motoring
and traveling hats of the new Japanese
linens are also seen and verging from
this to the basket-weaves of supple
fibers, the modish motoring hats and
bonnets run back to the loose straws,
lined with daintily toned silks or sat
ins. Some charming little affairs In
the plain foulards, draped over light
weight crinoline form, and lined with
Bilk, are on display also, and the fou
lard makes pretty bows, with flutter
ing ends. In the tiny polka dots, of
white, against a dark blue background,
this style Is particularly natty.
.A smart touch for the plainer milli
nery is the imitation buckle of straw.
These straw buckles are made of nov
elty weaves and are much used for
marking the center of the huge bows
of wired lace or ribbon that bedeck
the wide leghorns and other sun hats.
The boudoir cap, or turban, is one
of the latest fancies. It is made large
enough to cover the whole head and
conceal all the tresses when the coif
fure has not yet been made. The turi
ban is soft and gathered, or shirred, to
shape to the head, and is of the same
material as the kimono. An attractive
set is on display In one of the exclusive
women's outfitting establishments on
Washington street; the kimono Is of
pale blue satin, shirred in a wide girdle
effect about the waist, and faced with
Persian silk. The turban is of blue
satin, with borderings of Persian silk,
and the fullness is gathered in at the
sides to points that end in a silken
tassel over either ear. A pair of dainty
little blue "mules," with narrow Per
sian edgings, complete this natty set
for the boudoir.
Charming as is the pell-mell style of
piling and massing flowers all over the
crown of the wider-brimmed soft straw
hats it is not exclusively adhered to by
those who like to reflect all the modish
changes. On some of the new hats a
single or double wreath of stiff, primly
arranged flowers encircles the crown,
set upon a band. One of theBe hats,
which seemed less ungraceful In con
trast to the more popular style of pell
mell trimming, was a huge leghorn,
which was on display in a Morrison
street window. Upon a broad band of
dark green, lustrous velvet, was set a
triple row of small dark roses, tiny
pale roses and deep blue forget-me-nots,
all primly ranged side by side and
set precisely in parallel rows. Running
completely around the brim, this triple
wreath extended over the brim at the
back, and disappeared underneath,
against the hair.
While this mode will hardly make
serious headway against the graceful,
becoming style of massing clusters of
harmonizing flowers all over the top
of the hat, it is a new note that is
heralded as extremely modish in the
East.
DRESS BOX IS NECESSITY
Shirtwaists and DressesMay Both Be Packed in Case That Can Be Made
Ornament With Little Trouble.
ment to any room, particularly if you
have a pretty pattern of paper on your
wall, and match it with - paper and
border in making your box. A pillow
in harmonious tones, set upright on top
of the box. will make the box (if it is
strong enough) an extra and very com
fortable seat.
One's slippers and boots can .also be
neatly hidden away, and yet be within
I clothes-closet to stow away all pretty
' frocks she had brought from New York,
I taught her friends something useful.
Measuring toe lengtn or the tiny
closet, which was long but very shal
low, she went out and bought a section
of curtain pole, cut just to fit the
closet lengthwise, and of the right
diameter to fit nicely the hooks of coat
and skirt hangers.
With the pole she bought the fixture'
for attaching it to the wall, and the
screws for securing the fixtures. Thus
equipped, she put up her curtain-pole
at a convenient height. Just so her
frocks could hang full length with
out sweeping the floor; then she se
cured two dozen hangers, put her frocks
LATEST FADS AND FASHIONS IN
BODICES FOR CONSERVATIVE WEARERS
BT MARY DEAN..
T bodices which are now being put
WO qualities distinguish the smart
forth girlishness of effect and the
veiling of one material with another.
The daintiest waists defy time, paying
no more heed to the middle-aged wear
er than if she did not exist, and it is
not enough for you to buy one mate-
dainty undersleeve some inches longer,
or wrist length, which matches the tex
ture of the guimpe.
With a really fine bodice the guimpe
and undersleeves may be of some tin
seled tissue dull silver or gold but
these dazzling materials will be veiled
with the gauze or net which is used
for the waist.
A pretty freak for afternoon dresses
THE girl who has plenty ot shirt
waist room will find her troubles
lessened greatly from now on.
To be sure, the shirtwaist is giving way
perceptibly to laundriable one-piece
frocks, or two-piece dresses of the one
material. But if the shirt-waist box
be made long enough, it can accommo
date skirts and one-piece tubbable
suits as well, and there are so many
nooks and crannies about the ordlnary
house where a presentable box can be
placed, that one should hasten to take
advantage of an arrangement which
saves so much trouble and keeps all
one's freshly laundered things in such
good order, free from the dust, and
crisply fresh.
An ordinary box, from the grocers,
it lined thoroughly with clean white
pr bsown paper, and covered with a lid
which has been hinged on, or hung
with leather or tape straps, can easily
be made of sightly appearance on the
outside. Cretonne or burlap remnants,
tacked upon the sides and top with
brass nails, and decorated, if one likes
with a plaited ruffle around the top,
make an ornament to any corner in
the hall, on the stairway landing, or
i-.i some other &.ngle, in case one's bed
room space is limited.
A little padding of clean old soft
cloth, or even of folded newspapers,
adds to the appearance, and the ex
celsior saved from packing, will even
lend an upholstered appearance.
For the less prominent nooks, just
cover your box with wallpaper neatly,
not only to make it of neater appear
ance, but the better to exclude the
dust. A wall-paper covered box. if
cleverly covered, can be made an orna-
FIGURE A.
FIGURE 8.
easy reach, if one will plan and make
covered box for this purpose.
Pouches can be hung in sides, for the
dilapidated bed-room and bath slippers,
and a "double-story" box can be made,
by nailing in rests for a shelf that fits
the box. This shelf should be either
of two strips with a space between, or
one solid strip to. which is tacked a
loop, or other handle, to lift it by.
The shoes used less frequently than
the others can be stowed in the lower
story of the box, and those most worn
can be left easily accessible, on the
shelf.
A resouroeful Portland matron, who
recently returned with her husband
from an Eastern trip, and who was
condemned, during a period of house
hunting, to living in a tiny hotel
room, with the merest cubby-hole of a
and her husband's suits upon them, and
ranged them side by side along the
pole, in perfect order. There was plen
ty of space for the entire two dozen
hangers, some ofj&'hich had two or
three frocks upon them, and any one
hanger could be taken out without dis
turbing the rest, by simply crowding
the others along the pole to make room.
This was an application of the same
principle used by the big stores, which
hang hundreds of gowns along poles in
narrow cases.
The narrow closets, of the average
rented flat or apartment will afford
ample opportunity for experimenting
with this simple and extremely satis
factory space-saver, and the editor of
this department recommends ft cor
dially, as she has made use of it with
gratifying results.
DEATH FACE" LATEST FAD
New York Women Take Up Ghastly and Ghostly Facial Decoration,
Imported Prom Europe Adoption, in West Not Expected.
ABSURD enough to be almost un
believable, is the new fad that
has come across the Atlantic and
struck New York, according to a let
ter received from a Portland girl who
is being "finished" at Miss Mason's
School, on the Hudson, by a Willamette
Heights girl who had "chummed" with
the writer in the old St. Helens days.
The missive contained much newsy
gossip of fads and fancies that would
seem Impossibly extreme in conser
vative Portland. Chiefest of these is
the "death face," which the fair stu
dent says is being adopted generally
by New York women, and Is in evi
dence on Broadwajv And Fifth avenue
all the time.
The "death face," as the name im
plies, is a. make-up of chalky white,
the deathly pallor of which is accentu
ated by the heavy underlining of the
eyes and Intense blackening of the
brows and lashes. A white enamel
preparation is used to secure the ef
fect, which is not only startlingly
white, but of a peculiar ghastliness,
such as one might expect of one of
Shakespeare's philosophizing ghost in
full animation, if one expected ghosts
at all. The "death face" is also called
the "ghost face," and under some name
or other, according to the writer of the
letter, is being affected by nearly all
the women one sees oa the streets In
New York.
Two or three seasons ago we heard
something of the "death face," which
made a feeble attempt at becoming a
fashion on this side of the water, un
der protest from editorial columns and
pulpits. The present revival, accord
ing to the letter referred to, and to
rumors that have been wafted from the
East, threatens to be a little longer
lived. Perhaps the absurdities of
coiffure and exaggerations of femi
nine dress generally that have pre
vailed of late have prepared the way
for the bleached visage.
It is not probable, however, that the
ghastly fad will be in evidence on
Washingten street, or Morrison. Such
erratic and unbeautiful freaks of pass
ing fashion as reach the West at all
are usually pretty well robbed of their
greatest absurdities, and the West is
not yet "effete" enough to feel the ap
peal of so senseless and revolting a
thing as the "death face."
rial for your fine corsage; you must
have quite three to look as' if you were
keeping up with the times. The ex
ceptions to this rule are the bodices
made or altered to suit some wearer
who is very conservative in taste, the
spinster or matron who confesses can
didly, "Really, I am too old for those
dear, giddy things," and also for the
girl of quiet habit of dress who does
not like to be conspicuous by the more
dashing phases of fashion, as the very
newest "kinks are apt to make one.
The most notable waist feature of
the moment is the kimono sleeve,
which appears in every species of dress
and odd bodice, giving the wearer a
decidedly jaunty and up-to-date stamp.
But the new .kimono sleeve is by no
means like the old one. It is narrow
to the point of actual discomfort when
the arms are lifted, for then the close
seamless fit over the shoulders de
clares that the style Is chiefly for
looks. With this smart and uncomfort
able arm covering goes often a collar
less neck, and under the edge of the
little elbow sleeve there will be a
Is to veil satin foulard in checks and
figures with a plain veiling or chiffon,
either of these textures forming a
blouse and tunic, and softening the
somewhat hard effect of the silk im
mensely. For the woman- who wants to look,
as you might say, like other people,
there are very restrained models for
both dressy and odd waists, the sleeves
of these following bishop or puff mod
els and the necks collarless or finished
with a high stock. But even here the
matron and spinster must pay tribute
to fashion", for unless she has her
bodice made to order it is very apt to
have three-quarter length sleeves, for
this style being newer than the wrist
length sleeve, it is all pervading with
ready-made waists.
As to material, it all depends on the
use to which the bodice is to be put
in other words, on the fitness of things.
A shirtwaist style which would be
chosen for practical wear would re
quire naturally a tub material, pongee
or checked or plaid silk, and of all
these pongee is by far the most modish
texture. For dressier bodices in white.
which would be needed for a dainty
afternoon look, and yet not be high
dress, crinkled crepe treated to coarse
hand embroidery is very modish, and
there is a delicate cotton veiling which
makes up quite elesantly with simple
laces.
The really fine bodice must be of
chiffon or net or lace, and show, be
sides, as T have sai various under
films in other materials and often color,
for the outside may be in one tint and
the two lnterlinings in' two different
ones.
' A group of waists admirably suited
to persons who like quiet effects in
dress, is shown on the page and with
some little change or other each may
be worn by women of middle age; for.
like everything in dress, of course, they
are designed for the youthful wearer.
Figure A Displays h model admir
ably adapted to net, veilinpr or chiffon,
and if it were made high-necked, with
the bib left off. and buttoned in the
front it would be quite suitable for a
grandmamma- Here is a little point
for the woman no longer young to re
member. A collarless nerk and a waist
buttoned at the bark, not being her
privileges, would only make her look
foolish.
As Illustrated, the waist forms part
of a gown in gray veiling. It Is ot
gray tucked ne over royal blue chif
fon, which in turn is put over a Mrhite
foundation. The lace is gray witn .
blue figure. The skirt supplied for
such a bodice would, of course, intro
duce the bodice colors.'
Figure B Gives a surplice model in
checked silk, with a plain trimming,
which would admit admirably of little
alterations. Instead of tlio shield here
worn there could be a lilgh-necked
guimpe of tucked net or lawn, and of
course the sleeves could be made to go
to the wrist, as the smaller draAtnff
shows.
With these changes, this model would
do admirably for middle-aged wear-is
and especially for mourning, as sur
plice effects are much used In blaek.
In this event the bodice would be ef
fective as part of a dress in black
checked veiling, with a tunic of the
veiling over a skirt of dull messaline.
and trimming of this on the waist.
The guimpe for deepest black would
be of black net or chiffon In fine or
wide tucks.
Figure C Gives a very conventional
style, for color or black, for the young
and the elderly, for the last wearers
would only need to have the sleeves
made wrist length.
The bodice is of blue veiling over a
violet silk lining, with a black sou
tache, and a violet moire band forming
a yoke and side plastron. The stock is
of all-over cream lace over w-hite chif
fon. But as the style ot the waist is so
simple it would do admirably for a.
single color, and with the guimpe left
off and made entirely of pongee it
would be a very useful garment for a
girl to whom the collarless neck is be
coming. Figure r Offers a very pretty op
portunity to show off bordered ma
terials, for the drapery over the
shoulders admits tho use of banding
a well as nlain embrbiderv. The de-
i sign is adapted to embroidered Swiss,
veiling, muslin, .lacquard, novelty cot
ton voile, etc. The rear drawing also
shows how the model may be used for
a very simple gingham, though it like
wise suggests, with wie short sleeves,
and low neck, a little dress of veiling
or simple silk a girl would uso for
evening.
Apropos of evening materials do look
out for pacquard. which is a name
given to cotton and silk mixtures oC
exquisite daintiness. They cost 2D
cents a yard, and the simplest ribbon
decks the pale evening colors delight
fully. Figure E Shows a waist in white,
linen with a hand scalloped edge, which
would be useful as an odd garment and
most effective as part of a whits dress
for a young woman.
If needlework of this sort is impos
sible for the sewer, an edge of machine
embroidery or a bias band may be used
instead of the hand scalloping. A pon
gee dress made with a waist in this
style would be an excellent hot weather
garment and one that would resist I ho
destroying influences of the laundress.
For all garments must be made with a
degree of plainness to wash well.
Cabbage and Clicesc.
This .delicious disli may be prepared
to all but the last touch the day he
fore, but it must be baked on the one
which it is eaten, as its chief charm
is the freshening the last cookiny
gives.
Boil a white cabbage in two waters,
drain it and when cold place it In
quarters in a baking dish. Sprinkle it
thickly with grated cheese, add two
tablespoonfuls of butter, some line
toasted breadcrumbs, a little rich milk,
and bake. Frankfurt sausages, heated
thoroughly in -boiling water, make a.
good flanK for this dish, and the Ger
man dainties are usually much liked
by the girl at the tubs.
Ciingtiajii ' I-"rooks Again Popular.
Last year's favoring of the fine ging
ham's for garden frocks and general out
door upe, is to be repeated, we are told,
this season. When one recalls the dainty
little affairs of pink -or blue gingham, in
tiny checks, Eome of which were almost
as elaborately trimmed with lace and
insertion as frocks of finer fabric, one is
rejoiced to hear thist With proper
laundering, the gingham frock can be
made to retain its delicate coloring al
most indefinitely, and this material has a
suggestion of the bucolic which fits in
happily with the Summer atmosphere.
Some pretty cotton parasols, in tiny
checks, and with edgings of torchon lace,
are being shown with the gingham pat
terns, and loosely-woven straw hats, in
the burnt tones, seem to be made espe
cially for wear with the cotton parasol
and gingham frock.
Prus3ian statistics show that the starch
content 'of potatoes is htffhent where the
istem of culture Is most iutensiv.