THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, 3IARCH 13, 1910.
7
1
DAINTY WOOLEN WRAPS POPULAR
AMONG LATEST SPRING OFFERINGS
Fleecy Crocheted and Knitted Garments Will Be Quite as Popular During Next Few Months as in
Winter Coat Sweaters in Demand for Wear at Beaches.
j: j
i l8 i
I V J p v. r '
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THE demand for knitted and cro
cheted articles offlne quality,
both the hand-made and the prod
uct 'of the wonderful modern- machines.
Instead of decreasing with the approach
of Spring sunshine and Summer heat,
is noticeably on the increase, and all
manner of dainty woolen things, coat
eweaters, boleros and shoulder wraps
are figuring prominently in the window
and counter displays of the local de
partment stores. '
While the wrap of fleecy wool is an
- Invaluable and all but indispensable
accessory for protection against the
severity of Winter cold, its usefulness
, by no means ceases with the passing
! of the anows and wind. The woolen
' wrap la an all-year-round institution,
i &nd is coming to be more and more
! appreciated for Spring and Summer
I wear as a light-weight but efficient
! extra garment that can be handily
: carried about to have on hand for the
chill night or for the reaction, that
comes of enthusiastic exercise or Over
heating. At the beach the coat-sweater
hat) come to be the all-Important
thing, and because It may be washed
and dried In a brief time and donned
without even ironing, it is the Ideal
lounging and "roughing It" wrap for
all kinds of outdoor wear, -having long
since displaced the tailored coat and
tho various outing garments of duck,
khaki or other such materials, which,
to have washed, means ruin to ap
pearance. If not to fit and comfort.
The new patterns In sweaters are of
various styles, and both the long and
the Bhort models will be worn. Among
the short patterns there Is being dis
played a very natty style, which fol
lows the general lines of the smart
Russian blouse coat. ' This . is shown
in No. 7, which was sketched by The
Oregonian's artist from the stock of
new garments just unpacked by a large
establishment that .makes, a specialty
of modish gowns, suits and accesso
ries. It Is of fine wool in close weave,
in a pretty dark blue tone, with a nar
row edging of pale gold. It is with
out sleeves, being really kind of
bolero blouse, Intended only as a, pro
tection to the shoulders and chest.
The real bolero type is shown in No,
9, which is of a pretty crochet-stitch
in fleecy white wool, with a touch of
pale blue in the finishing scallops, and
a small bow of blue satin Joins the
garment at the front. For the tennis
court, golfing or other out-door exer
cise the wool bolero will be much
worn. In the way of evening wraps,
for "between dances" and lawn fete
wear, the crocheted or knitted shawl
Is again in evidence, and many of these
are in elaborate patterns of hand
work, running into pretentious figures,
whether made by the clever maid's
own fingers or bought in the shops. -
Besides the olch-fashloned square
shawls, there are many innovations
which have semi-circular finish at the
neck or graduaflted to fit much as a
cape does, with the looser folds hang
ing from the shoulder line. Some of
the dainty patterns being displayed in
the different shops are shown at the
top of the Illustration.
The crocheted hood or "fascinator"
is also coming into vogue again, with
dainty elaborations of bronze and sil
ver tassels or other touch which re
deems it from the merely old-fashioned
and makes of it an ultra-modish af
fair. No. 5 shows a pretty head-wrap
of this type in crochet, of the large
fan patterns. The wool is of a dainty
pink, and gold cord and tassel finis
the ends.
In shweater-coats, , the long, knee
length garments are of the close-fitting
or semi-fitting style, with large
buttons and pockets. The shorter
coats are either semi-fitted or of the
loose box cut, the latter being shown
in No. 8 and the former in No. 10.
A feature of the long sweater-coat
is the facing of soft silk or satin in
contrasting colors, used at collar, cuffs
and. pocket flaps. The central figure,
No. 6, shows a long sweater In deli
cate tan, with facings of dark blue
and large cut buttons of a blue hue.
The sweater-coats have the distinc
tion of dapper cut and fit, and their
smartness suggests the tailored gar
ment of cloth. Adaptations hitherto
used only In cloth have been made,
and the side seams and cut of the well
fitting sleeves give the general out
lines of the tailored coat The edges
are usually bound In satin or satine,
and Jet or fancy buttons have replaced
the old plain pearl button, familiar to
the sweaters of other seasons. Some
of the models have fancy frogs for
fastenings, in self or contrasting colors.
COMBINATION OF COBBLE STONES AND
SHINGLES IN A BUNGALOW IS PRETTY
IT IS a good thing that In building,
as in everything else, tastes vary.
Imagine the tiresome monotony of
a village street on "Which every house
was exactly like its neighbor. And for
tunately for the sake of contrast, and
for the beautifying of our towns and
cities, the taste of many "home builders
Inclines toward ruggedness in exterior
! construction.
Where boulders or cobblestones are
conveniently at hand, the rugged effect
'. Is readily attained.
i The bungalow here illustrated Is a
j good. example of a well-balanced use
I of cobblestones and shingles, and the
result Is an artistic, attractive home,
which should be built in almost any
part of the country at a cost well in
side of $2600 complete in every de
tail. The house has a frontage of 34 feet.
Just right for a 60-foot lot. and will
look -well on either a level or an ele
vated location. Of course, vines and
plants will much enhance Its beauty.
Entering from the broad porch, one
stopa, a moment to admire the quaint
oak front door, with its glass panels.
The living-room is large, with a cozy
front nook. It has an oak floor, beamed
ceiling and a broad, comfortablt-look-
ing fireplace and mantel, located where
it will best warm the room and make
an attractive showing from both liv
ing and dining-rooms.
The dining-room is large, with oak
floor, paneled wainscot and built-in
bullet; it opens from the living-room
through a wide 'buttressed- opening,
with drop beam. The breakfast room
opens out on the bade porch and is a
convenient feature which Is rapidly
growing In favor; of course. If neces
sary, this could be used as a bedroom
instead. The bathroom Is well arranged
to open from the two bedrooms, as well
as from a small hall. The front bed
room has a long wardrobe cioset, which
the illustration does not show, and
there is a fine linen closet opening
from the hall.
The kitchen is built in full cabinet
style, with closets, cupboards, bins,
etc., and there are stationary wash
tubs on the screen porch.
Of com the painting, etc. Is a mat
ter of individual taste, but we would
suggest a dark gray stain for the shin
gled walls, with dark red trimmings
and moss green roof. Inside wails are
finished in hardwall plaster, with carpet-float
finish and tinted, with the
exception of the bathroom and kitchen.
In which the walls below the chair rail
are finished smooth, marked off to
imitate tiling and enameled white.
If cobblestones cannot conveniently
be had, this house can be worked up
beautifully in brick (preferably rough
clinker brick.)
The cobblestones are pointed up, with
a dark red cement mortar, and the
porch floor and steps are also of dark
red cement.
Just here is a good time to remind all
who contemplate building with cobbles
or boulders, that there is a right way and
a wrong way of laying them. The right
way, and the way to produce the best
effect is to lay the wall with a rich lime
and cement mortar, and while the mortar
is soft to rake out the Joints deeply, as
deep as the absolute safety of the struc
ture will permit, say three Inches. Then
point smoothly with colored cement mor
tar, leaving deep joints. Mortar for
pointing should be mixed only soft enough
to work well, and thus spattering and
soiling of the stones is avoided. Com
plete working plans and specifications of
this house as shown or. reversed can be
had for 10.
From "California Bungalow Homes."
Price $1. The Bungalowcraft Co., Los An
geles, CaL
Correspondence
BY LIUAN TINGLE.
Forest Grove. Of.. March 2.--KindIy give
me your best and always reliable recipe tor
layer cake something to be depended up
on for regular family nee; also formula for
mixing-. Thanking you in advance. F. F.
yOU have asked me a difficult
question, for, in the first place,
I have no cake recipes I could
call my own. since practically all cakes
are made by one or other of a limited
number of standard formulas. In tho
second place I know no "always de
pendable recipe" because "dependablj
ness" depends upon careful weighing
and accurate oven temperatures, rath
er than on written words. In the
third place, I have' no "best" recipe
any more than I have "best" clothes
only recipes and clothes adapted ..o
different times and occasions. And
finally, I can hardly recommend anv
layer cake for "general family use."
However, here is the best I can do for
you Personally, I have never had
a failure with any of the following old
established proportions.
(1) "No. egg cake. One ounce butter, 6
ounces sugar, 8 ounces flour, half a
pint milk, 4 level teaspoons baking
powder or 1 level teaspoon soda and
2 level- teaspoons cream of tartar.
(2) One egg cake. Four ounces butter, 8
ounces sugar, 8 ounces flour, 2 ounces
(one) ' egg, 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons
baking powder, or equivalent leavening.
(3) Standard cake Six ounces butter. 8
ounces sugar, 8 ounces flour, 4 ounces
(two) eggs. 1-3 cup milk, li teaspoons
baking powder or equivalent leavening.
(4) "One. two. three, four cake" Four
ounces butter, 8 ounces sugar, 8 ounces
flour. 4 ounces (two) egg. 14 cup milk.
IVa teaspoons baking powder or equiva
lent leavening:
If weighing is not convenient, take the
following as approximate equivalents:
1 poung butter equals 2 cups.
1 pound granulated sugar equals two
cups.
1 pound sifted flour equals 4 cups.
1 pound eggs equals 8 to 10 (in the
shell).
The easiest way of mixing Is as fol
lows: Cream the butter. That means soft
en, but do not oil It, and beat until It
turns lighter in color. Add the sugar.
Beat welL Add 1 egg (white and yolk to
gether) and 1 tablespoon flour; beat well.
Add eggs in succession with a little
flour to maintain the original consis
tency of the creamed butter; then the
milk 2 tablespoons at a time (as If it
were eggs). Fold In any remaining flour.
Have the flour thoroughly dry and
warm and sifted once before measuring
(If measure is used) and again with the
baking powder. Have the pans pre
pared before you begin mixing. Flavor
your cake with vanilla, orange, lemon,
spice, almond, rose, orange flour or cara
mel, according to taste. Spread in pan
so as to leave a hole In the center. More
depends upon baking than upon exact
method of mixing. For notes on baking
see answer to "Inexperience" below.
Plain sponge cake is also good for layer
cakes and Is perhaps slightly more di
gestible. If you have to use bread
flour. Instead of cake or pastry flour, a
few tablespoons of cornstarch, Th place
of a similar quantity of flour. Is 'often
helpful in making a light and tender,
even-grained cake. Let me know if I can
help you further.
Portland, Or., March 7. I will be greatly
obliged If you will -publish a recipe for
lemon pie calling for no more than two
or three egirs. Will yon also Ktnt int
how long blanc mange should be cooked
xo w aigestlble? I am puzzlied to know
Just bow long to cook cornstarch mixtures.
Will you also state how to use rennet and
how to make junket? Will you please tell
me how to be absolutely sure a cake it
'done" before taking from the oven? I
have such trouble In taking cake from the
oven with every evidence (that I know)
of being perfectly baked, and then the cake
seems to fall a ltttle, and. upon being out.
shows streaks. I cannot say too much .of
my enjoyment and appreciation of your
always Interesting articles in the paper,
and I have been greatly "helped thereby.
p INEXPERIENCE.
1. The following is a good nlaln
lemon pie filling: One cup sugar. 1
cup water, 2 tablespoons (level) corn
starch, 2 tablespoons (level) flour, 2
egg yolks, 3 tablespoons lemon Juice,
3 strips (yellow on both sides) lemon
rind, 1 teaspoon butter. The "Rule of
Three" mixture Is richer and does not
fill so large a pie: Three-fourth cup
sugar cup water, 3 tablespoons
flour, 8 tablespoons lemon Juice, 3
strips of rind, 8 egg yolks, 3 teaspoons
butter.
The latter is my favorite.' In either
case mix the flour or starch with the
sugar, pour on the water, which has
been boiled with the lemon rind. Re
turn to inner part of double boiler
and cook directly over the fire, stirring
THE
NEW
A&Tfcgpj Bandlet
The Greatest Cghsit Imventidh
VER INTRODUCED
5:
S3
IftSi
r.;.-t -i
fives'
mm
tm
mm
00
REDUCING
WITH
Bandlet
(UntBet grains ffio. 3
' The success of the new Nemo
No. 522 is nothing less than mar
velous. That's because it DOES
SOMETHING for every woman
stout, slender or medium that
no other corset CAN do.
Stout women even those who
have worn our other Self -Reducing
Corsets find that No. 522
stiil further reduces the figure by
from 2 to 4 inches.
Women of medium and even
slight build are wearing No. 522
because it produces a sylph-like
form with perfect comfort.
No other corset is so delight
fully RESTFUL, whether you're
seated, standing or walking.
Self-Reducing No. 522 $C 00
wiA Lastikop. Bandlet S J
The semi-elastic Bandlet per
fectly supports the abdomen and
internal organs, allowing extreme
reduction of upper limbs as well
as back, hips and abdomen an
absolutely smooth effect; and the
front steels CAN'T stick out,
even when you're seated.
There are now in the Nemo-r-
SELF-REDUCING SYSTEM
FIFTEEN DIFFERENT MODELS
Five styles at $3.50. Three styles at
$4.0O. Five styles at $5.00. vOne superb
model, in white brocade, at $8.00; and
one luxurious style (equal to the best
made-to-order corset you can buy at
$25). at $10.00.
Don't BEGIN wearing a Nemo
Corset unless you intend to CON
TINUE to do so "once a Nemo
wearer, always a Nemo wearer."
KOPS BROS.. 154 Sutter St.. San Francisco.
constantly, for five minutes. Place
over hot water, remove lemon rind,
add butter and beaten egg yolks, and
cook until the egg thickens, but does
not curdle. If evaporation has been
very rapid, a few drops more water
may be needed. Place in rather "slack
baked" pastry shell. It should "set"
somewhat on, cooling. Cool slightly
and cover or pipe with meringue ufS.de
from the egg whites beaten stiff, fla
vored with half a tablespoon lemon
Juice or one-fourth teaspoon vanilla.
Use about two tablespoons sugar for
each egg and fold this In at the last.
Finish baking In a slow oven (8 to 15
minutes) until the meringue is firm,
but not tough. If not faintly "brown
blushing," hold before the lire or un
der the broiler. Don't forgrt the old
rule, "'Never use an egg without a
pinch of salt."
2. Cornstarch blanc mange should
be cooked 20 minutes, at least, and as
much more as you have time for. The
best way is to cook it in the double
boiler. Then the first -5 minutes or
so may be directly over the fire. If
the water In the outer part boils when
the already boiling material in the
inner pan is placed in position, the
high temperature necessary for com
plete starch-cooking may be main
tained without the trouble of watch
ing and stirring. In a plain blanc
mange a pinch of salt and a teaspoon
of butter will help to get rid of the
raw taste some times called "boarding
house flavor." Caramel is a useful ad
junct for plain starch puddings. Half
flour and half cornstarch makes good
blano mange.
S. Rennet is conveniently put up in
the form of "Junket tablets." One tablet
(costing less than 1 cent) will "Jell"
one quart new milk. The milk should
be sweetened and flavored to taste
and heated to lukewarm. No warmer,
or the' mixture will either refuse, to
Jell or will torm hard curds. Then
add the tablet, dissolved in a table
spoonful of cold water. Stir well and
pour immediately Into serving glasses.
Let stand in a warm (but not hot)
place until set. then put in- the re
frigerator (shaking as little as possi
ble) and serve ice cold. Suggestions
as to color, flavor and varied meth
ods of serving will be found In the
little book accompanying the tablets.
Junket is perhaps the most wholesome,
one of the most cellcious and cer
tainly the easiest and quickest of des
serts. Boiled or sterilized milk can
not be used. '
4. Do you know that excellent rule
for beginners in matrimony "When in
doubt, always remember to be a little
kinder than seems necessary?" A some
what similar rule is a wise one for
beginners in bread, cake and cream
puff making, "When in doubt, always
remember to bake a little longer than
seems necessary." This rule will save
many fallen cakes, puffs and muffins,
and much of the dyspepsia caused by
the slack-baked bread and pastry of
4
1 1 ni f I ' iff r'
feWi-aJ-l -. " ,111. It
'I.
the omnipresent "L.ady-in-haste.'" Of
course, the heat should be moderated
to avoid any danger of burning. The
usual tests are as follows:
1. Time Judge the probable time
necessary for the particular size, shape
and quality of your cake. 15 to 30
minutes for plain cup cakes or very
thin plain layer cakes. 35 to 40 min
utes for richer and thicker layer cakes,
50 to 70 for medium rich loaf cakes,
70 to Hi hours for large, rich, thick
cakes, 2Vi to 6 hours for rich, large
fruit cakes. Whatever the time, men
tally divide it into four parts. During
the Orst quarter the batter rises, but
does not show any sign of browning.
2d. Rises still and begins to brown.
3d. Stops rising, becomes even brown
all over. 4th. Settles a little, browns
in small cracks, shrink In the pan.
This also serves as a guide to the
proper oven heat.
2. Sight Should be even brown and
shrink slightly from the pan as de
scribed above.
3. Smell Smells "cooked;" inde
scribable, but easily to.be recognized.
4. Touch Press surface slightly and
feel rebound. Run bright knitting
needle or skewer through center.
5. Hearing The cake should hardly
"sing" at all when held close to the
ear. A distinct sound Indicates slack
baking.
February 27 I have been looking in my
cook books and magazines to find a recipe
for making and steaming- a fruit cake. I
find several which I have tried and found
good, but they all say to bake them, and
all I have ever eaten have rather a strong
taste, due, I thought, to long baking. Can
you give me a recipe for one, and if 1 steam
it, could it be done in a pan without a lid?
1 wish it for a wedding, and thought the
long bread pans would slice nicely. I
thought of wrapping each slice in white pa
per napkins with white ribbon. What do
you you think about It? I wish to bake
the cake and lay It away for several
months: but what can 1 do to make the
Icing stick when I want to use it? If the
cake is cold it crumbles more, it seems to
me. Also what do you think would be nice
for a lunch for an evening home wedding
for about CO guests? "MOTHER."
The cake may be steamed for three
hours or so and then finished by an
hour's or more baking In a moderate
oven. This dries the surface and takes
away " the "plum-pudding" effect of
plain steaming. Bread pans will do, if
the shape is liked. If very deep, more
than three hours' steaming might be
advisable. Have the pans lined with
two layers of well-greased, medium
thick paper. Let the paper project one
and one-half Inches above the pan to
avoid all danger of running over. Cover
with double-greased paper, wide
enough to bend over and be tied round
the tin without crushing the side pa
pers.' A cover Is nice but not neces
sary. . Remove the top paper for bak
ing, but not the sides. Leave the lat
ter on until ready to ice the cake.
Wedding cake proper Is covered llrst
with a layer of almond paste, then with
"royal" icing confectioners' sugar and
raw egg white, with lemon Juice. The
almond paste, besides being traditional
and delicious, prevents crumbling and
makes icing easy. The method of
wrapping you suggest will be pretty,
practical arid Inexpensive. Use an
inner wrapping of parafflne paper. Sil
ver cord is often used for tying up cake
slioes. Fancy boxes are also used. If
you have "mock orange" (syringa) at
the time of the wedding, a spray might
be caught In each ribbon or cord.
As I am exceeding my usual space
limit. I will leave . the discussion of
wedding refreshments until next week.
The following cake formula has been
used for many weddings among my
pupils, and seems to give general sat
isfaction: One pound butter; 1 pound sugar; 10
eggs; 1 pound flour; 2 teaspoons mace;
2 teaspoons cinnamon; teaspoon
clove; 1 teaspoon alspice; 2 teaspoons
grated lemon rind; 2 teaspoons grated
orange rind; teaspoon almond es
sence; 2 pounds raisins; 2 pounds cur
rants; 1 pound sultanas; 1 pound mixed
orange, lemon and citron candied peel
(or. if preferred, 1 pound preserved
cherries) ; pound blanched almonds
(cut in 3, lengthwise): 1 teaspoon soda,
(to prevent rancidity of butter on keep
ing) ; 2 teaspoons baking powder, 2 ta
blespoons lemon Juice; 2 to 4 (accord
ing to size of eggs and strength of
flour) tablespoons water, or brandy, or
orange flower water. Mix like pound
cake. This Is a very old recipe, said to
bo the same used by the famous house
In London which furnishes nearly all
English royal wedding cakes.
Answers to A. M., Marshfleld, Or., and
P. U. K., Portland, will be given next
week.
Woodland lias Building Boom.
WOODLAND, Wash., March 11.
(Special.) William La Salle, contract
or, will soon complete a handsome home
for Cashier McConnell of the Wood
land State Bank and will then com
plete a two-story concrete building for
store purposes on Davidson avenue.
In addition he will commence the erec
tion of a one-story concrete building
to be used also for store purposes. The
present season will undoubtedly see
much building activity In Woodland.
Railroaders Organize to Stop "Cussing."
New York Dispatch.
An anti-swearing club has been or
ganized among the hundreds of em
ployes of the New York Central in the
railroad yards at Dewitt, and already
has several hundred members. The
club has no constitution, bylaws or of
ficers. The only requirement is that
when a railroader feels called upon to
"cuss" he shall first stop and count ten.
HOW I MADE
MI HAIR GROW
Woman With Marveloualy Beantifnl
Hulr Give Simple Home Prmcrlp
loti Which She Vscd With' Most
Kemarkable Results.
I was greatly troubled with dandruff
and falling hair. I tried many adver
tised hair preparations and various pre
scriptions, but they all signally failed;
many of them made my hair greasy, so
It was Impossible to comb it or do it
up properly. I think that many of the
things I tried were positively injurious,
and from my own experience I can not
too strongly caution you against using
preparations containing wood alcohol
and other poisonous substances. I be
ll tve they injure the roots of the hair.
After my long list of failures I finally
found a simple prescription which I
used with, most remarkable results, and
1 can unhesitatingly state that it is
beyond doubt the most wonderful thing
for the hair I have ever seen. Many
of my friends have .also used it and
obtained wonderful effects therefrom.
It not only Is a powerful stimulant
to the growth of the hair, and for re
storing gray hair to its natural color,
but it is equally good for removing
dandruff, giving the hair life and bril
liancy, etc., and for the purpose of
keeping the-scalp in first-class con
dition; it also makes the hair much
easier to comb and arrange in nice
form. I have a friend who used it
two months, and during that time it
not only stopped tho falling of his hair
and wonderfully increased its growth,
but it practically restored all his gray
hair to its natural color. . You can ob
tain the ingredients for making this
wonderful preparation from almost any
druggist. The prescription is as fol
lows: Bay rum. 6 ozs.; Menthol crystals,
one-half drajchm; Lavona de Com
posee, 2 ozs.; To-Kalon perfume, 1 to
2 teaspoonf uls.
Apply night and morning; rub thor
oughly Into the scalp.
Oo to your druggist and ask for an
eight-ounce bottle containing six
ounces of bay rum: also one-halt
drachm of Menthol crystals, and for a
two-ounce bottle of Lavona de Com
posee. Mix the ingredients yourself in
your own home. Add the Menthol
crystals to the bay rum and then pour
Lavona de Composes, and add the To
Kalon perfume. Let it stand for one
half hour and It is ready for use.