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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 6, 1910)
THE SUXDAT OREGOMAX, PORTLAXD, 3IAKCII 6. 1910. CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY 4 j YOUTHFUL FASHIONS FOR SPRING styles for. the advanced high school girl and for her older sister, the college girl, follows, to a great extent, the trend of the older fashions. For this reason, if you are a very youthful-looking married woman, of something less than 30 years of age, you, too, can adopt such of these youth ful fashions as you desire with all pro priety, and especially the conceits that are favored for college girl age. The many-gored skirt of numerous odd effects in panels, the waist length bodice, the princess frock: with cuirass lit ted body part, and gathered or pleat ed skirt these are some of the features that distinguish both youthful and ma ture fashions for the Spring. It seems a shame that skirts are to be so cut up, i but if there is no tunic, apron panels 'and Jersey bodices must simulate the next best thing.' As to the .belt at the normal waist line, which so many of the one-piece 'and shirtwaist dresses involve, dress makers vow it. is to be the only thing for the coming months. Yet, despite (this, short-waisted cuts are coming (steadily from Paris, or else models with the girdles so high that the waist looks 'short. So there is only one thing to ibelieve. and that is that the Spring girl lis to cling to all the effects that the Winter girl foind becoming.. For maids tall enough to wear it with grace, the hip yoke is a decided feature of many little Spring frocks of fine and simple nature, a deep pleated flounce finishing the skirts with these and pret ty tucked bodices or shirtwaist lines composing the upper garment. Altogether, the girl from 16 to 20 and a year or two over that will still present the look of having her gown in one piece, and this is a very good thing, for a bodice distinctly separate from the ckirt was never yet becoming to a young girl. The miss from. 14 to 17 must perforce content herself with one-piece frocks, lor virtually nothing else is seen. Very pretty and graceful are the school mod els designed for such wearers, many plaid textures, which -always seem so appropriate to youth, being used, as well as the gentle trimmings that go with the teens, and that cost one is a delighted to say far less than the oth er sorts. Ribbons, plain and flowered, deck costumes that are used for best wear, while what is called "rat-tail" braid will be used sparingly on tailored suits, or else these are only stitched. For the toilette de fete the dance or birthday part- frock, the graduation gown, and so on fine and coarse net are to be much used, a very limited quantity of gold or silver ribbon, and knots of tiny pink rosebuds shaping the trimmings. As to hats for misses and young girls of the college age, they are growing more charming every day. For the years from 17 to 20 the deep turban that comes well down over the face is much teen for tailored and shirtwaist dresses. Younger girls will wear brim hats, with the left side softly rolling, or the shape dropping all round mushroom way. Ribbons, soft silks and silk muslins, put on generously around tho crown and bunched at the side or front, are fa vored hat tr4mmings for all maiden wearers. The week's illustrated models give ome pretty styles of medium elegance for girls of various ages, the hats hown with them being entirely suit able to the gowns with which they are pictured. Group A. Here are two frocks any mother of sewing gift would be wise to consider for her daughters. The tall maid to the left wears a dress in one piece suited to any age. from 16 to 21, and which would be entirely proper for . small woman. As illustrated, the Kown is of a a handsome quality of rajah silk in a rich tan. with a brown Ilk belt, brown buttons and brown embroidery on the yoke. The princess panel at the front of the frock ends a little below the knees with the proper upron effect, and the tucked net yoke is made separately from the dress. This GROUP model is perfectly adapted to wash ma terials of a solid sort,' but if the gown is made in these, it would be beet to leave off the ornamenting buttons, or else put them on with rings, for buttons always make the laundering of a dress more difficult. The seated figure shows a little one- GROUP piece frock for the girl of missy age, with a skirt in stitched box pleats and a bodice with Gibson pleats and a round yoke. Old rose cashmere is the ma terial, with a fancy silk braid and a yoke of novelty net. Any one of the foulards in the delicate designs allowed misses would be feasible for this model. Taffeta, cballie, pongee or linen, or a very modest wash gingham, may also be used, with bias bands of the same for trimming and a white lawn guimpe. Group B. The two costumes here displayed are for the same ages as those In Group A. and both Show, in their respective ways, two of the neat est of the season's styles. The' girl who is studying her lesson demon strates the tailored neatness which B. SPRINGTIDE may stamp a frock in either a simple gingham or a smart wool, and in either case a piping of plain goods, put be side one of white, may form the trim ming, as illustrated. The standing girl, of college age, wears a very trig shirtwaist model, which is adapted to a girl's silk, pan- 4 A. ama. gingham or linen. The hip-yoke skirt already described is here dis played, and the double frill which orna ments the plain bodice may be ac cepted as very indicative of the "Sum mer's mood, for the shirtwaist without this double or single frill for Jabot will be rare. Group C. Two neat and yet quite Odd s and Ends EVERY time she combs her hair a woman should sliake it down first, and running her hands up under neath, ruffle it up by rubbing the scalp vigorously with the tips of the fingers. The ruffling and shaking about gives the hair fresh air, and the moment of massage stimulates the scalp toward a more healthy action. The oily scalp, which is only made worse by a massage with cream or olive oil, is sometimes put in a more wholesome condition with a massage cf sait and water. Put a teaspoonful of table salt in about a cupful of water and clip the fingers into this, applying them to the scalp alone. Such rubs are also good for anaemic scalps, the one that drops too much hair with each combing, or is constitutionally inac tive. Hair broken at the ends is vastly im proved if the locks are- taken up in a bunch and rubbed at the ends alone between the palms of the hands with olive oil. Even w-hen the hair is very badly split, it is benefited with these oil rubs at the ends, and if done oc casionally as a matter of course with hair in good condition, it will prevent splittinpr. But if it does nothing else, this application of oil at the ends of the hair will take away the lifeless look that so many heads of hair have at this point. The woman who has fine hair cannot be too careful of her shampoo mix tures. She needs rain water and egg or else a very oily castile soap, for a hard well water ar a soap with alkali will break such hair very easily. It cannot stand borax, soda. or. ammonia, so. if the scalp is unduly oily, the hair may need to be cleaned often with a dry shampoo. Cornmeal or rice pow der, shaken into partings made all over the head. are. much used for such cleansings. The meal or powder is left in the hair a half hour and then brushed out carefully with a medium stiff brush. But as this treatment will clog the pores in time, every third shampoo should be of water and soap, with massage of the. scalp to stimulate the discharge of any foreign matter in the pores. For coarse, light hair a tablcspoonf ul of peroxide or ammonia in the rinsing water will keep it bright, though, of course, the abuse of such powerful fluids will In time injure the hair very much. As eggs are darkening in their effect, the fair woman who wishes to keep her locks a bright blonde should not use them in her shampoo. A liquid green or tar soap are better for her purposes, unless her hair is very dry, when an oily castile would be better. Dark hair, especially of a' reddish cast, is much improved with a shampoo of California claret. The yollc of an egg and a teaspoonful of soda may be beaten up with this. with benefit If the lady's "glory" Is of a vigorous sort. Claret takes its color from the skins of the black grapes of which it is made, and therefore contains tannin, which is a superb tonic for the scalp and hair roots. The last rinsing of the hair must be with pure claret; diluted with half Its quantity of water, Fifty cents, or even less for there are cheap grades . of domestic .claret- would be the cost of this luxury. Hair which has turned pure white must be washed with a white soap and the scalp anointed only with a white vaseline. To give It a perfect shade, it should also be rinsed after the sham poo with a bluing water. Use ordinary washing blue for this and make a light elegant little dreBses for girls of the college or long-skirt age. are here giv en, the Jersey costume (at the left) of fering itself for any clinging and softly hanging material, and the stiff shirt waist dress suggesting any neat wash goods, sufficiently solid for these tail ored lines, or else taffeta, pongee or foulard. And now a word of .sleeves and stocks. Arm coverings are much fuller than last Summer, and quite the best sleeve for any costume on shirtwaist dress lines is the little bishop with narrow band cuff. The sleeve with close shoulder cap, and puff lower por tion held in at the .wrist with a nar row cuff, is used for a smarter frock, while many a little sleeve In a thin material will be made with groups of crosswise' tucks all the way down. Stocks in thin textiles, such as lace, net, chiffon and open lawn embroid ery, also continue to begay the -frock; in any fine material, but the girl who values the beauty of her throat will be glad to hear. I am sure, that little lace and embroidery collars of th Dutch sort are more worn at the other side of the water. A young giri. in America on a visit, and whose home until recently has been the historic Medmenhsm Abbey on the Thames, declares that a girl in one of the high choking stocks worn in this country would be considered "eccentric" in Paris and London. All of this little lady's toilettes, by the way they are made by the great est dressmakers of London and Paris display' a girlish note delicious to see. She Is IS and heiress to a largo for tune, and yet does not own so much as a bangle ring or a string of gold beads. , Would that our American lassies, too prone to fixy fineries, might take a leaf from her book. MARY DEAN. Original Dinner Menus for One Week BI LILIAN TINGLE. J.KXTEN JUSNT. Tuesday. CJar Tomato Souj Corned Beef Horseradish Sauce Baked Potatoes Baked Creamed Cabbara Gulden Salad (Han F"ood DWX Soft Chocolate Blanc Manse Coffee Wednesday. Blavk Bean Soup From Coined Beet Stock Baked Fish Vinaigrette Sauce Potatoes Moulded Cauliflower Breton Style "Washington Pie S Coffee , Thursday. Vegetable Broth Broiled Chops with peas ""itil Baked Sweet Potatoes Watercress and Ebk a!ad Kice and Date Pudding Coffee Friday. Green Pea Puree Sole au Gratin French Style I'otatoes Spinach Croutes with Era Fruit Salad Barley Cream Coffee Saturday. Cream ot Spinach Soup Pot Roast of Bent Diced Turnips Mashed Potatoes Cabbage and Pimento Salad (Died) Apricot Betly with Cream Coffee Sunday. Mock Game Soup Chicken in Casserolo with Biscuit Crust Spiced Peaches Mashed Potatoes Peas (Canned) Tomato Jelly Salad Lemon Merinque Pie Coffee Monday. , Rice Soup Meat Loaf with Piquant? Sauce Potatoes Stewed Carrots (German Style) Banana, and Peanut Salad Caramel Junket Coffee About the Hair blue water such as would be used for clothes. Grizzled hair, or hair that is black and white all over, is much improved In appearance if kept" oiled, for the moment grizzled . hair begins to fly about in a dry way the owner looks old. even if Bhe is young. With the locks well oiled, and deeply marcelled the black and white head may "be made beautiful, for in the matter of beauty all depends on the reasonable ness of the view. When the hair comes out in bunches, with signs of dandruff, tlte following unguent, applied with massage to the scalp, will be found most beneficial: Cocoanut oil 3 ounces Tincture of nux vomica drachms Jamaica bay rum 2 ounces Oil of bergamot' 40 drops For any case of falling hair this stimulating lotion is also splendid: Tincture of cantharides 1 ounce Rectified spirits 2 pints Sublimated sulphur 1 ounce Glycerine ...... g ounces This lotion must be allowed to dry on the scalp, and if the gentle mas sage that should accompany it is kept up five minutes or more every dav the fall of hair will be rapidly diminished. It is impossible to overestimate the danger to the hair of unclean combs and brushes. ' Such toilet instruments should bo carefully cleansed and disin fected once a week, and there is a way to do it so as not to injure them. The brush and comb must first be quickly washed, then dipped in a water with boric acid, and then sunned and aired. A handsomely backed brush may be cleansed by dipping the bristles alone in a strong solution of ammonia and water. After this, run hot and cold water alternately over this part of the brush, shake it vigorously, and put it, bristles down, over a rest of some sort to dry in the open air. KATHERINB MORTON. To Bake Fruit Cake. Many women can mix an excellent fruitcake, but few can plac'e one In the oven without forebodings. To in sure good results, bake fruitcake in pasteboard corset boxes;. 16x5 inches is a good size. Some buyers prefer to leave these boxes in the store, and the storekeepers are glad to give them away. It is . well to choose boxes not less than two inches deep, and three Is better. Line each box with manila pa per well greased, pour in the batter, place a thoroughly greased manila pa per over the box and put on the paste board lid: place the boxes in a slow oven and bake until the cakes are done through, no longer:" this will require at least five hours. When baked in this way the cakes will come from the oven retaining the fruit flavor, with no hard crust or scorched atom about them, and they will cut into tempting, even slices of a convenient shape and size. Oyster Stew with Cream Place half a pint of cream over the fire to scald. Take a quart of solid fresh oysters and lift each' out of liquor with a fork, shaking the oyster first so as to free It of slime and sediment. Put them in a saucepan, strain the clear part of the juice over them, add one table spoonful of butter and three table spoonfuls of cracker crumbs, and salt and white or black pepper to taste. Boll the oysters two minutes, then add the scalded - cream and some chopped parsley. Serve with small oyster crackers or strips of buttered toast. DUTIES OF "BEST MAN" AT WEDDINGS Tira young gentleman who accepts r the Invitation to' be best man at a friend's wedding should coach him self beforehand in the many small duties of the-office. The groom, is expected to be In a way timid and awkward, , but' his henchman must display faultless ease and support his friend in every way by not forgetitng the least ot his? functions. The first obligation of the best man, after the Invitation has been put to him and accepted, is to forward a suitable gift to the bride. If he feela unable to afford anything pretentious, he may with prt-fect propriety suggest to the groom that he be allowed to present the bouquet that the bride will carry on the Important day, for this gift comes usually from the groom. Again, if hs-feelfi so inclined, he may make his gift a personal one to the groom, presenting some masculine conve nience, fuch as a smoking :t or eilver toilet articles. As the time approaches for the "wed ding he must call on the groom at leat a week in advance of the ceremony to know if there are any special services he would liko him to perform. A visit at the bride's house would also be in keeping with taste, and here he might suggest, if there are no men in-the fam ily, to attend to church details that he would be glad to order the floral decora tions and music which would be needed on the day. If the responsibility of these things are confided to hia keeping he must be perfectly sure of the excellence of his Judgment; otherwise, he must ask the aid of the maid- of honor or first bridesmaid regarding the proper music and flowers, or else take the clergyman and even the sexton of the church into his confidence. ' All the decorations and music of church weddings is paid for by the bride's fam ily, but the bridegroom pays the cler gyman's fee. and the beet man may very properly attend him when he goes to the rectory to make the initial arrangements. During the last four days before the ceremony, if it is possible for him to. do so. the best man should place himself entirely at his friend's disposal. If there, is no wedding rehearsal, he mupt read over the ceremony so as to familiarize himself with the different responses and other moves and thus be able to prompt the groom in' the event of any forgetful nese. On the-day of the wedding the groom pays for the conveyance, which takes the best man to and from the church, and it is customary for them to go to the edi fice in the same vehicle. Quite 15 minutes before the bride's arrival the two must be there, waiting in the vestry until the signal comes that the bride, is about to enter the church door. The best man carries the ring in a vest pocket, so as to be sure It will be found when needed, and he also takes charge of the envelope con taining the clergyman's fee, which it is his duty to present. The proper disposi tion of the groom's hat and coat during the ceremony is entirely the best man's affair, but as the holding of them in the chancel together with his own traps would make the moment awkward when the time came for him to hand over the ring, he generally leaves them -with his own hat and coat in the vestry, bringing them out as a very . polite valet would do when the affair is over. , . . As soou as the news of the bride's ar rival before the church door is an nounced, the clef-gynian and the groom, walking together. enter the chancel, closely followed by the best man. If a portion of the service is spoken at the foot of the chancel steps, the best man I GROUP C. J ateo follows the groom when the latter goes forward to meet the bride, but stands a step in the rear, at the left of his friend, and facing the congregation. When the couple make- their final vows he again follows"-- a- little behind the groom, to whom lie hands the ring at the moment it" is required; and at the con- elusion of the ceremony he may be the first witness to sign the register in the vestry if he is asked to do so. He then hands the groom his. hat and gloves, slips the fee into the clergymanis hand with out ostentation, and If there is no brides maid, hurries away to his carriage through a side door of the church so as to be the first . to welcome the bridal couple when they-arrive at the house. Buf if there is a bridesmaid or maid of honor. lie makes his exit from the church with this lady on his right arm. the two immediately following the oride and groom and reaching the bride's home in the same carriage. Quite within the scope of the best man's duties is an active share In the wedding reception, if there is one. Where this ia In a way impromptu and given at a ho tel, if the feast lias not been ordered be forehand, he consults with the bride's family or the groom and orders the vari ous viands and drinks, the bills going to the bride's father or mother or to the bridegroom, as has been arranged. At the .home reception, since thi is entirely the affair of the bride's family, he con cerns himself only with the entertain ment of the guests, bustling hither and thither, with the bridesmaid to assist HEADACHE? Naturally, if your scalp is loaded down every day with rolls, puffs, switches, etc. Why not gradually discard all artificial hair and begin a simple, easy course of hair culture with ED.P1MUDS ' 4 HAIR a Massage it into the scalp every day and watch your hair improve. x" Test a bottle of this womderful French preparation. Sold by dealers everywhere, 50c and $1.00 per bottle. If yon write to our American Offices today, we will send yon a regular 10c sample for 5c PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD, Dept. 26 ED. PINAUD BLDG. NEW YORK him to make the moment go off as pleasantly as possfble for everybody. Toward the conclusion of the breakfast or reception, as soon as the bride and groom leave the room to make ready for their honeymoon journey, he drives to the dock or railway station from where the couple is to depart, if the traveling arrangements have been confided to his hands. For a sea voyage he secures the proper staterooms and deck chairs long beforehand, but train tickets, with the exception of sleeper berths, may be se cured at this time, after buying which the useful friend orders fruit and flowers and light literature for the diversion of the travelers these the bridegroom may pay for afterwards: sees that trunks and hat boxes are checked and that all hand luggage is properly placed: gives the groom the tickets, checks the- traveling itinerary, and waits to bid the pair a hearty godspeed and wave them a last adieu. In fact, there is no end to the useful ness Of the best man if he is a person of judgment and considerate nature, for to spare his friend the extra embarrassment he may . even arrange by telegraph for the hotel accommodation the bridal pair are to have at the end of their journey. As regards his dress on the day of the marriage, it is customary for him to wear almost the fac-slmile of the groom's costume. For a day service this consists of a black frock coat, gray striped trous ers, a white silk four-in-hand tie, and white kid or gray suede gloves; his bou tonniere is white. large, and may be tied with a narrow white ribbon. The night ceremony Is celebrated by both the groom and best man with full evening dress, .spotless linen, a white lawn tie, white kid gloves and black patent-leather shoes. PRUDEXCE STANDI3H. Wholesome Date Bread. Make a sponge with one quart of lukewarm water, half a cake of com pressed yeast, a teaspoonful of salt and Hi pints of flour. Set It to rise in a warm place. When quite light and spongy add half a cupful each of sugar and molasses and sufficient flour to make stiff enough to knead. Work in two heaping cupfuls ot coarsely chopped dates, knead and set to rise again. When light, mold into loaves, and -when well risen bake for three quarters of an hour in a good oven. This makes a delicious bread. Children frequentlj' prefer it to cake, and it is more wholesome for them. Always in Session. Chicago Tribune. "You never have to spend your even ings alone? Lucky woman! Then your husband ' doesn't belong to any lodge?" "Oh, yes, he does, but I belong to it, too." "You do? When does it meet?" 'MCvery evening." "Goodness: What Is it?" "The Ancient Order of United Lovers." "O:" The largest typo burglar-proof safe built to withstand the rss "cnttlnp burn ers" used o el'fortually by many crooks, and revolves, when .it is closed, by means of an electrie motor. Develop Your Bust 50c Package FREE to Any Woman Who Wants a Beautiful Figure Worann nred no lonjeer be hum tliated and em barrassed because thry are thin, flat-cheated and. not developed, for science has found a sim ple way to plvo the beautiful curves of a perfect ftprure. To prove this, let us send you free of charffo a &0c pack age that, will show you how easily tho bust can bo developed from 2 to 7 inches, and become full, plump and firm. This discovery, that is or such vital Interest to .all thin women, is the result of long study and investigation by one of tho lead Ins women phv- sfcians in New York State, who. in seeking to overcome the defects in her own llirure without the use of" "pads" or forms discovered a happy combination of tlssue-bulldlm? elemen t that increased her bunt some four inches, made her arms round and shapely and her neck and shoulders plump and symmetrical. - This prescription of rr. Catherine Kellv's is a real discovery on far different lines from the ordinary figure developing treatment, and this explains its almost uniform purees. Or. Kelly not only trained a beautiful form oy nor own prescription, but ud it successfully with many of her pa tients. Women, this is a personal me?Bage from a phYsIoimi of your own ex, and all we ask in the opportunity to show you without any expense on your part, that Or. Kelly"s Form Tevfoper will jrive you a perfoct figure, beautiful com plexion, and improve the treneral health. Henri the corrox FREE SOe Treatment PR. KKI.I,T'S FORM DEVRTOrKR 20SS little COUDOn above and 1(W for tTnmnmi and a 50c treatment will be mailed at onre in plain package. Write us today. Dr. KKT,t.Y MBDICAh OO., Tept. 203 S, Buffalo. X. T 'TON 1 M r.? I V -' I f : . Ml k""'! '"ylij 10