THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 26. 1909.
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY
Small Women's and Misses' Styles
THB email woman who finds the
adult styles so difficult for .lier
needs will be amply- suited by the
lder of the mioses' models that the sea
ton shows.
Kspecially are the one-piece misses'
lresses pretty for undersized figures, and
ibove all if they are slim, for these give
Hie look of height required, though wise
the lady who eschews the three-quarter
5op coat that often goes with such' a
lress. 8he who lacks the number 1 of
Indies which achieve normal height must
fc-car nothing with lines that cut her in
the middle, hit her-knees, or 'come a bit
further down. She must have short
ivalsted Umpire effects if her waist is un
duly long and lier legs short, "and if she
tiom not wear a jaunty bob t Ml led jacket,
the hem of her long coat must drop to
her ankles. She Is better off without any
sort of a short tunic or fishwife drapery;
hr sleeves uiiift not be too flxey, and the
alls of her house gowns should fall upon
the floor.
In tile street a skirt actually short is
permissible, for walking skirts never
touch, and if the hat is a high turban
Instead of a flai-lng-brlin shape,, the ef
fect of a -stylish get-tip will be dapper
in the extreme. As with misses, many of
Jtlmnew materials are debarred the small
! woman. The gorgeous brocaded even
' 1n stuffs, wit'i their, glint of gold and
stiver and huge patterns, make a small
woman look smaller, and absurd as well,
'whereas a girlish crepe. or daintily pat
terned silk, or simple net or wool mate
rial of some sort gives her genuine ele
gance, if the costume is made in a model
that suits tite figure.
So, when she is in doubt about any de
tail, it is well for the pretty midget to
consider seriously the "dos" and don'ts".
of misses': fashions.
Misses are In their glory just now, for
Yever wer young girl styles' prettier - or
more suitable. Nothing that savors of
extravagant effect is permitted a maiden
In the smart world who is still in her
teens and at school, and many a mother
will-be pleased to hear, I know, that the
gowns and coats now being made up for
school girls are all In textures that would
be suitable for Spring use.
This is certainly a sensible arrangement
of things, for mid-winter garments have
been mostly supplied already, and all
light-weight materluls are sold afreduced
Jirtces until the season arrives . which
makes them fashionable. In f.ct. they
are going just now for a song dainty
cloth for coats, soft marquisette for
,jowns, pale silka and inexpensive, girl
ish laines galore.
How must they be m'ade up? The four
' Illustrations 'accompanying this text show
i as many very useful garments, both for
the moment and for first Spring use.
Figure A. Here is a cloak which would
admirably suit the small' woman, and yet
' be equally appropriate, on . an evening
1 occasion especially, for a girl of 14.. Many
of the charming soiree wraps in pale
cloth for maids in the 'teens are in this
loose design, the- fiat models supplied be
ing suited to all ages.
As shown in the picture the - cape is
tmade of a sturdy wool in a mottled blue
and black, with black velvet buttons and
,. military collar. 'Die cape is made in
'fthree pieces, with a seam that runs from
'the neck over the shoulders to the bend
'of the arm, where a sleeve slit for this
1 made in the garment. Such a coat
,1'eady-made. would never be lined, and a
doubling is not essential if a sweater
Is worn underneath, though naturally a
. messaline lining would double the warmth
and elegance of the garment.
To make a cape that would withstand
, the wear and tear of shopping, rain and
enow, a rainproof serge would be the best
material. For the medium figure there
will bo required TVi yards of material 27
nches wide.
Figure K. At first sight this maidenly
little frock will strike the lady of limited
dimensions ns eminently her privilege,
and she will be quite right. For with
only a change of the hair arrangement
many a slim young matron could wear a
frock coat as youthful as this one un
deniably is. As the dress stands, it is of
plain white Brussels net with bands of
u Silk embroidery on a not with bigger
holes. Loulsine ribbon in blush pink
forms the girdle and bows and the little
tucker is shirred about the neck over a
narrow pink ribbon that ties in a tiny
low at the back. A wonderful effect may
be made with this gown if a complete
drapery, taking the lines here shown,
were made of a spangled net over a col
ored silk slip.
Again, with the addition of a guimpe
a ii I undersleeves of all-over lace, and
with the drapery only outlined with trim
ming, a proper material, such as cash
mere, veiling or a soft ilk, would turn
this frock into a very useful affair for
ia- occasions of a dressy nature.
For a giii of 17 of medium figure 10
yards of silk would be needed.
Figure O. With the fashionable bodice
eternally buttoned at the back, there is
no difference in this misses' frock from
many worn by older women, except that
the cut gives the shortness of skirt
needed by sweet IS and 17. The dress
Is meant for a school girl's best or
eeond-best day frock, but as the rear
Hints for the Winter Complexion
H-AV13 you a. fine thin skin which
shrivels like the petals of a deli
cate flower with Winter cold and
wind? Have you one which turns brown
and hard as If varnished after two
months of Winter? Have you one so
bitterly sensitive to every rise in the tem
perature that you come Into the house
blotched with brick-dust red, with a
fltming nose that refuses t6 abate Its
luster, with ears that stay crimson and
en ache that stays on?
Well, if you have any one of these det
riments to beauty you may be perfectly
ure of two things you are not living
properly and you are not taking care of
your skin. And by the last statement I
mean not alone the skin of the face but
the skin of all the body as well.
The first requirement toward an Im
proved complexion are sensible hygienic
habit proper eating, bathing, regular
exercise, sleeping in a well-ventilated
room, and so on. I have touched so often
upon these matters that I will simply
enumerate them here. Nevertheless, you
may be assured of one thing, .that
good complexion lies largely in the proper
workings of the stomach, bowels and
1 lilies, so if any one of these organs does
iot receive the attention needed for
'health you may not hope for a bright and
toft skin.
Since Winter is usually the period for
bad hygienic habits, such as staying in
the house too much and eating food too
heavy for comfortable digestion, you must
bear in mind that the season is one for
especial precaution in the way of good
i.vjtienc sense. There is the matter
of the hot gas-lighted room. How many
girls realize that a long stay under bril
liant gaslight is ruinous to the complex
ion, parching, yellowing and sometimes
1l-tehiiig? Th skin mu&t get a good deal
of its good, fresh oxygen through the
luns!. and gaslight burns this up with
drawings show, the model may. be made
up very plainly and so lend itself to
very practical purposes. In the model, as
illustrated, fancy wool is used with plain,
silk, this forming the skirt edge.- yoke,
girdle and sleeve caps. , The guimpe and
cuffs are of all-over lace in the paler color
of the frock material, for a guimpe that
matches . the gown material is- far more'
stylish than a white one.
Made entirely in a hard-finished serge
with a tucked yoke and undersleeves of
I . j
l V FIGURE B. I
thin matching silk, this stylish and yet
simple model would be excellent for the
run-about dress that the small woman
would wear with a long coat. From six
to seven yards o f double-width goods
would, be needed for It.
Figure D. A phase of the Moyen Age
style is depicted by this handsome dress.
rapidity that is terrifying when you come
to dabble with the scientific side of the
subject. Warmth is needed for a good
skin, but so also is a moist atmosphere,
wherefore a long walk, on a drizzly day
Is sometimes greatly beneficial, and in
deed, it is to the rains and fogs df their
climate that English women owe their
beautiful complexions
A piercingly cold dry day is hard on
the best of skins. ut a chiffon veil will
keep off a good deal of the damage, and
the surface trouble can always be treated
to hot baths, massage, cream and tonics.
A beautiful face bath taken after expos
ure to biting winds should last from
2 minutes to an hour, for sometimes it is
necessary to allay the burning and crim
son flush with a good steam.
For the ordinary nightly scrub the water
must also be very hot rain water is the
best thing and the soap must be bland;
that Is. without the biting quaiity a cheap
soap will have. The hygienic soaps of
French make are all good, so is an old
oily castile soap, especially if it is made
into a jelly, while a really frail skin
would respond bst of all to a cleansing
with almond meal. To make the Castile
jelly scrape a cake into powder and boil
this in a quart of water till the particles
are entirely dissolved. When using the
jelly, take a good handful and massage It
softly into the skin, covering every part
of the face with the light movements.
Then wash rs onT with a soft rag, grad
ually chilling the several rinsings; The
wiping: must be the merest dabbing with
the. softest old towel in the house, for
while the face is still warm and moist
there must bt another complete wash
with cold cream or a liquid ungftent.
Wash a clean face with cold cream,
you say? Yes. I answer, for your face is
not yet freed of all the dust and clogging
oil of th day. It may. besides, be very
badly dried out with the hot water and
soap, in which event you must use quite
which, is for a girl of 14. 'With a slight
change of : trimming, the style is also
called the Scotch dress and the college
dress. As illustrated, the dress is for
very smart day occasions, . a very hand
some brown cloth with velvet and moire
poplinette being the materials used. The
unusual yoke arrangement is very effec
tive and so also are the V-pieces 6et into
the bottom of the sleeves and the hip
bands of the bodice portion.
Made with ' a pleated skirt of gaily
plaided wool and a plain bodice portion
of Jersey cloth, this costume would have
the Scotch snap. Made with a separate
bodice with a turned-up fold at the bot
tom, it would be the college dress. With
a. double width goods -five yards wpuld
tee ample for making it.
MARY DEANv.
.a tablespoonful or even two of the cleans
ing cream.
Pick this up -an the fingers of both hands
and begin massaging it in' at the center
of the forehead, using the- balls of the
fingers with circular movements and go
ing gradually toward the temples Then
take the cheeks, rubbing away from the
nose and upward toward the ears; and
last do the chin and thoat away from
the central points. When the best part
of the cream has disappeared into the
pores wipe off the surplus with the soft
towel, doing this as tenderly as if you
w-ere smoothing a baby's cheek. '
Any cream which contains beeswax,
spermacetti or petroleum would be more
harmful than curative for this cleans
ing of a skin already sensitive. So. for
the woman who cannot be sure that her
cold cream will not contain these ingre
dients, I would advise using the follow
ing liquid cleanser instead:
Almond oil 4 ounces
Rose water 4 ounces
If this face wash is used every night,
with more or less elaboration as the
skin needs, the complexion will be kept
in good shape all the Winter long, for the
hot bath opens pores, the massage stim
ulates them and makes the muscles
firmer, and the oil or cream feeds the
flesh and gives it a purer tint.
Any little wiping off of the face during
the day should also be done with warm
water and a. very soft cloth, but the dry
ing must be very complete or the wind
will soon chap the moist skin, and this
will result in the parched, weatherbeaten
look, which is so ugly and may even be
come permanent, as the skin has a way
of clinging to its defects.
All faces that indulge in cosmetics of
any sort need a thin rub with cream be
fore the powder or rouge is put on. For
the thin skin to venture into the street
without this is to invite ruin, for the
frolicsome winds beat the white or red
cosmetic down Into the pores, the cold
closes, them. and. lo! very soon comes
the withered apple look.
The thin skin suffers most about the
eyelids and at the corners of the mouth
and nose, where the line shriveling that
comes gives almost the effect of prema
ture age even on a young face.
At these points the preliminary coat
ins of cream whiclv is to go under the
artificial lilies and roses should be patted
in most. . delicately and surely. with
smoothing: out movement always. The
crumbled eyelids and incipient crow's
feet, in fact, cannot have too much of
the softening cream, and with the night
bath, above all, they should be generously
larded, if I may use the word. Then,
when this has all been carefully mas
saged in, take off all the. shine with a
soft old rag and apply the make up, what
ever it is A grease paint makes the
most harmless blush - at all times and a
scented talcum is about the safest white
to use, though there are skins that ac
cept a liquid white more readily than
they do a dry powder.
An excellent whitener and softener for
a hard sallow skhj may be found In this
cooling and bleaching lotion: "
Tinoture of benzoin .' 1 ounce
Tincture of vanilla.. .... '. 2 drachms
Rose water (triple) ....1H pints
' KATHERINE MORTOX. '
The I -ate Sapper.
The late supper is as often a sorrow
as a pleasure. If the edibles and drinks
are cold it will lie heavy on nine stomachs
though the tenth escapes. But though the
good hostess may know this perfectly
well there is the other nut to crack:
"What axe the correct hot things to serve
which are not too expensive and bother
some? The following simple recipes will
solve this problem and prove themselves
very acceptable for any little evening
entertainment:
Mulled Ale or Cider If the previous
recipe appeals to the ladies, this one will
seem to men folks the right thing. With
two quarts of old English ale put a
half a lemon peel and three cloves and
bring the concoction to a boil in a porcelain-lined
vessel. Or, with an equal
amount of cider put several baked ap
ples, three or four cloves, and o ha,
leaves. Proper accompaniments to eitner
drink would be hot toast sandwiches
made of white bread, with a filling or
grilled ham or bacon pnt between shreds
of tender lettuce.- A hot salad .made of
newly-boiled white potatoes, seasoned
with splinters of brolled red herring,
would likewise ' flank either deliciously.
If the whole - dried herring cannot be
found, get the ones in jars or boxes and
soak them for an hour before broiling.
If they are sauteed in a pan with a
little butter, the herrings would have
an even more delicate taste.
Speak "Well of: Christmas.
Atchison Globe.
If you don't ad-mire ' Christmas, keep
your mouth shut. "With some people it Is
worse ti speak" ill, of Christmas than to
speak, ill of the ' dead.
FIGURE D.
Etiquette for Misses and Youths
I AM going to ask you a very impor
tant question. Eo you mean, when
you ay that girls need chaperons
for evening golng-out, that girls of 14
must have them, too? I am just that old
"and beginning to go to dance parties and
other entertainments with boys, and I
want to know what is fashionable. Also,
if you will tell me anything els about
party etiquette for girls of my age I will
be very glad."
"I am a boy of 16, and I am thinking of
asking a girl to go with me to a Xew
Year's masquerade. Must I ask her first,
or mu5t I see her mother about it? She
Is lively and don't seem to mind her par
ents very much, but she 1 my best friend.
I want to show her the right ways to do
everything."
There they are, two real specimen let
ters from a hatch from girls and boys
who write me about etiquette. And since
I like narties and above all. joyous girls
and boys I am gomg to chat today about
youth and miss behavior for the evening
entertainment of any sort.
Toadies come first, so I shalr start off
with the little maid who wants to do the
"fashionable" and correct thing.
A chaperon for 14? Well, it would be
the thing that high society would insist
upon, for all well-brought-up. girls whoJ
go to the evening functions permitted
the younger iolks are invariably accom
panied by their parents, or by a servant,
or some grown-up friend of .the family.
But since you live in a country town
where it is allowable to go out with a
boy alone, there is no great harm in do
ing it. provided both you and your par
ents have entire confidence in the good
sense and proper bringing up of the boy.
But surely there are so-me girls in your
set who will find themselves without es
corts on the night of the party, so why
not make your squire also gather them
under his wing, and so avoid all possibil
ity of tittle-tattle about yourself by go
ing to the affair in a merry "bunch?"
Then, it would be very easy for you to
suggest to George or Billy, or Tom, that
you stop on the way to the dance or
molasses-pulling for hie best friend, which
would be a very tactful move on your
part, for e-en-the boy who likes you' best
wants you to like his best friend.
So. all things concerned, I think it
would be best for you to have somebody
along when you go out at night, with a
boy; and if you don't happen to know it
already, let me tell you that the girl who
is surrounded by all these little care
ful precautions is the one who has al
ways the best showing not only with
the opposite sex but with her own as
well.
In the way of other conduct, if the
party is at a private house, no unusual
move must be made there which is not
on the books." Jf there is dancing, you
must dance first with your escort, and
then do the gracious thing by suggesting
that he choose for his next partner some
one of your girl friends who Is not be
ing much noticed. You must ask the
hostess what is the hour for breaking
up. and on the stroke of the clock state
I
j - I
t FIGURE A.
firmly to your escort that the time has
come for going home.
You must be pleasant to every boy
while at the party, and especially gra
cious to the girls, for it is upon the favor
of women that the enjoyment of society
depends. In other words, if yo make a
point of making the other girls jealous
of the attention you get from the nice
boys, you will be hanging a weight of
lead about your neck for after times, it
is only the pleasant, amiable and en-
tirely generous girl and woman who is a
success at any entertainmen. To put
the thing in a nutshell, in every word
you utter, in every move ut your head
hands and feet, you must be what the
world calls a "perfect little lady" a
thoroughly bred young person, who is
neither too young nor too old for her
years, but just right.
Now, for the boy who wants to show his
lively little friend the right way to do
everything, though while I am about it
I want to say that all of this little talk
is for every boy and girl.
Of course, you must ask lier mother
first If she can go to the masquerade.
In fact. It would show the utmost ignor
ance of things polite for you not to con
sider the mother's wishes in all that con
cerns her daughter. But if this poor
mother has lost her grip on the reins of
government. It is an honest boy's place
to help her get them in her hands again.
The saucy girl likes a boy all the better
for taking the whip hand in moral be
havior, and since the naughtiness is
usually a matter of youth or slipshod home
rule, it is n. manly boy's place unosten
tatiously to instruct all the family in cor
rect- feeling for the young daughter by his
own perfect conduct.
This square boy. who is so considerate
for his girl companion, becomes the man
chivalrous to all women, which person.
I must tell you,- is the most perfect gen
tleman the world owns. But since boys
areoften bashful when it comes to the
spoken word, a simple little note might
carry the request about the party to the
mother. Here is one whose general form
would do for any function:
Iear Mrs. Brown:
I am writing to ask you if you will let
Mabel go with me to the masquerade at
Mrs. Johnson's. I will be very careful of
her and willbring her home any time
you say.
Sincerely yours, etc..
General party " conduct for a boy ex
cludes anything in the nature of a prac
tical joke directed against a girl, for
many a lassie has been frightened almost
out of her wits by some hoodlum boy
fuw of thisi rough sort. Besides, practi
cal joking is the resoirce of the vulgar
and so is not the privilege of the edu
cated and refined.
The popular boy likewise needs to be
careful in the matter of exciting envy and
jealousy among his fellows, for he, too.
must rely mainly upon his own sex for
social prestige. He must take the boy
who isn t getting a show up to some
amiable young lady sometimes, whisper
ing to the goddess beforehand that he
would Uke her to 6e nice to the lonely
chap. " He must be considerate of the
man-feelings of every lad and of the
woman-feelings of every girl a gallant
gentleman and good fellow at every turn.
Small points of conduct are these: Th
escort must carry his lady's flowers if
she takes any to the entertainment. He
must help her on and off with her wraps
and overshoes. He must invariably dance
with her or talk with her at the party
before he presents himself to any other
girl. If there are only games, he must
forget his great dignity and go into the
fun wjth whole heart.
If the little lady he Is talking to at
the entertainment is standing, he likewise
stands, and he keeps his two feet firmly
side by side, holds his shoulders square
and his head up. When the talk or dance
is finished, he bows to the lady bending
the body at the waist and sinking the
head respectfully before going away
from her; and when coming up for the
first time in the evening, he, of course,
bows in the same way.
Of course, there are more things to do
and not to do at the Winter entertain
ment, but I have only room to touch up
on the ones most important. So, if there
are other etiquette rules my young read
ers wish to discuss, they may write me,
inclosinu with their letters seli'-addreesed
and stamped envelopes for my replies.
PRUDENCE STAXDISIT. '
Ye Old Evening
Headdress
NO LONGER need woman mourn for
the prettier fashions of ye olden
days, for the headdress is once
more hers, and ninety-nine and a half
times out of a hundred it makes her
seem an angel.
As yet, the various little conceits
supplied for covering; the head at night
belong, as you might say. to the milli
nery peerage. In their best shapes
they are shown, by very expensive im
porters, but here and there on a side
street the little milliner sometimes cop
ies the splendor of an imported luxury
for a quarter of Its price and occasionally-
goes the Importer one better
In point of taste. For a certain pictur
esque foolishness is the rule for these
head fixings.- and though it is always
right with the chariot of wealth, the '
girl who must arrive at the theater,
opera or dance in a streetcar wants
some modification of the heartbreaking
sweetness shown by the foreign thing.
The most delightful of these head
dresses suggest both the automobile
hood and the rutch caps of small girls.
They are often called "evening bon
nets" delicious name! and begin with
a foundation of some very open lace
ortinsel, or satin-straw web, lined with
chiffon and kept in shape by a form of
stiff milliner's net. The trimmings are
great roses that flop this way and
that, soft short feathers, scarfs of tin
sel ribbon, and aigrettes galore. Some
barely cover the top of the lead, some
spread out like a shallow scoop at the
sides; and everything in the nature of
a bonnet ties with wide, soft strings
under the chin. .
Such, headdresses must be taken off
in the playhouse, however, unless the
wearer is In a box, but between the
acts they are 'assumed, you may be
sure, for the walks e round the lobby
Headdresses which are permitted, in
the body of the house are made of
wreaths of silver and gold ribbon, fin
ished with a bright velvet rosette, or
flower, or tulle fluff; but the whole
thing lies very flatly to the head. So
remember that and don t buy your
evening headdress so big that, it will
seem like a hat to the usher, who
will ask you very politely, of course
to remove it- ,
Head fixings for dance wear are most
often in the shape of flower wreaths,
over one part of which 'the hair will
be dextrously dressed to hide a bit of
the round line. Again, the ornament
Is a triple bandeau of some elegant
tissue or braid, which may be worn
under a Greek coiffuie, or at the tup
of the head- Or the three bars may ,
be of dazzling gold metal, the sides
of which are attached to the hair with
round medallions. ,
For misses, ribbon head fixings are
still considered prettiest, though a -wreath
of small flowers, or one of
green or gold ivy leaves, is thought
perfectly fitting. This the girl of 16
years wears around her head Napol
eonic fashion, hiding the bottom of the
wreath at the back with a ribbon bow.
MART DEAN.
Some Dainty
Sandwiches
THERE is no edible more convenient
and generally acceptable at little
parties of various sorts than the
sandwich, but inexperienced persons
make the mistake ot using- only heavy
meats and one kind of bread. To be
the delectable and comfortable morsel
it should be, the sandwich supplied for
the j?ala occasion must express the ut
most sophistication of taste, and the
fillings and bread casings should be
varied .as much as possible.
TV'bite, gluten, craham, brown and
rye bread are all used for the dainty
bites given at smart functions; with
cheese, soda and salt biscuits are com
bined, and filling of whipped cream and
nuts is put between sweet crackers. At
a Boston tea lately given there -were
even sandwiches of brown bread filled
with a paste of baked beans, the. whole
made gay to the eye and fascinating
to the palate with a shredded covering
of plmientoes. . Red and green pepper
sandwiches are common for beer sup
pers. These peppers are shredded fine
and put with thin white bread cut in
the slim two-inch strip liked by the
masculine eater.
At the afternoon teas patronized by
women the ftxy sandwich is liked the
tiny triangle of water-thin white bread,
with a filling of mayonaise on lettuce,
or the triangle of crisp toast holding a
light spread of foie gras.
Sardines, anchovies, shredded chick
en and broiled bacon go especially well
with toast casings for substantial sand
wiches, and if a dust of cayenne pepper
and a squeeze of lemon juice are added
after the salt, the taste of these sand
wiches will be delicious. In the mak
ing all fish and meat sandwiches
the seasoning counts greatly, and if
the taste is not just right at first, the
clever cook will know how to add
this or that thing until it is perfect.
For example, one housekeeper, who
found herself called upon unexpectedly
to regale some guests one evening, hav
ing nothing else in the house, mad1
sandwiches of some bits of chicken
dressing, warmed up for the occasion,
with a pinch of curry added. Anothei
housekeeper she was a bride, by th
way grabbed up a box of niarshmal
lows after the handshaking, and leav
ing hubljf to do the honors, returnee':
from the kitchen presently with those
delectable sweets toasted and put be
tween some thin sweet buns she hac
made for supper. A pinch of home
made grape jelly put beside the soft
ened candy gave the taste sublime.