THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, .PORTLAND, DECEMBER 12, 1003.
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY
6
PRETTY EXAMPLES IN
THE sllorw often .ticket them "Christ
mns bodices." and only to look at
the piles of practical or -glorifying
styles is to be perfectly sure hat the odd
bodice in to have a still longer and more
pronounced vofrue. In fact, there w not
tine coat-suit In ten that can do without
it, and what can bit more helpful to the
home wardrobe than two or. three sepa
rate waists' in various degrees of fineness,-ready
to put on at a moment's no
tice with the one Rood skirt!
Kach of the bodices shown in the
shops, and which are tile counterparts of
olhers worn by Fashion's daughters, has
its own sphere of usefulness, which is to
say that although almost everything is
the mode, nothinp can be worn with the
wrong accoutrements or at the wrong
moment. The plain practical waist, which
looks so neat with a simple coat suit,
and even smart, will seem a ra if worn
with finer dress, while the chiffon bod
le with tinsel touches, gay girdle and
jeweled buttons will seem as much out of
place if worn with the plainer gown.
Yet one simple bodice Is much to the
fore for elegant use, and this is. the
scantily made waist .of chiffon, or em
broidered crepe or messaline. which is
now provided for the handsomer street
tmits of coat and skirt. Even when heav
ily embroidered, as snicli waists so often
are. or decorated with fragile wreaths of
needlework between open entredeux, even
when they are a mass of fine tucks, the
-f feet is one of such extreme restraint
that jou can only use the word, simple
lor these bodices.
The close fitting and scant cut of
the models has a good deal to do with,
causing- this effect: and in order that
The coat may sit still more flatly, trim
mtngs are all flat.-' The result is a gra
cious modesty, which, in reality, is the
outcome of the highest art.
Few o these ciose-flttlngr and most
charming bodices are lined, though some
are about the shoulders. To facilitate
the snug fit of the skirt about the
'waist, the tail of the bodice is often
cut off and a shaped bias tail, some
three inches in width, applied there.
This holds the bodice down all around,
without giving the bungle that the tail'
proper would give.
Among the cheaper bodices for coat
suits there are some very good plain
models in moire silk and wool which
clever - women sometimes buy . and
smarten up in some little way at home.'
With the dressier bodices, those for high
'lay dress and evening use, models are
often odd in the extreme, a single one
anmetimcs showing three different sorts
f over-trimming.
Sometimes these bodices seem . a-deal
too fussy for jrood taste, and the va
1 rious quartering made by the models
'may give the body a contracted patchy
'Jook. but the slim figures that can
wear them look charmingly in such odd
styles. A limited number of very Targe
L.1eweled buttons and broad girdles of
! bullion rihbop are seen, on the more
elegant of these, fine bodices, one of
which Is shown in the week's pictures.
' which, together with my explanatory
( remarks, show what the home sewer
can do in the way of copying various
popular styles without too much ex-
pense.
An extremely popular plain moire
model, which can be had reads'-made
and. If desired, doctored to look richer.
Is shown In flg-ure a.
Without the sleeve puffs here shown,
or the front ruffle, buttons and military
collar, this same bodice is offered in
some shops In moire and alpaca for as
f little as three dollars. for a stylish
! street suit the entirely plain effect, as
I have intimated, would be belittling,
especially where the waist material is
o modest. But three-quarters of a
yard of ta ff eta "silk or a soft niessaline
ribbon would supply the trimmings 11-"
lustrated, and after they had been put
on the cheap shop purchase would be
scarcely recognizable. With a gray moire
waist, a gray messaline ribbon would
charmingly effect the front ruffle and
military collar this must be lightly
stiffened and form the button loops.
FIGURED.
The buttons could be of steel, or else
of molds also covered with the silk.
.With a black alpaca waist, the trim
mings could be of a rich blue, bordered
with black. In this case, the button
loops would be blue and the buttons
black velvet or jet.
If the waist Is made entirely at home
FIGUBE
three' and three-fourths yards of narrow-material
would be needed for the
medium figure.
like the foregoing model. Figure B
BODICES
Is a ready-made style, which admits
of home furbishing. The shop garment
may be double-breasted ,from the' neck
to the waist, or it may be cut at the
throat, as illustrated, and show a bust
lap wide enough for only two or three
buttons. This bodice may be made with
an adjustable " yoke : and stock which
E.
would permit changes for smart occa
sions tucked net, lace or chiffon and
lace supplying the gruimpes required for
dressy moments. As illustrated; the
waist Is of a soft blue wool striped with
silk in a deeper shade. The moire vest
is in the paler shade, and the velvet
collar and cuffs in the deeper tone.
Three yards of narrow wool material
and three-quarters of a yard of silk for
the vest and piping would make this
waist, which, as it stands and -like its
Ijredecessor, is admirably suited to the
needs of the business woman.
Figure C gives a-girlish bodice style
for an odd waist or a frock in one ma
terial, and as 'it is made of three dis
tinct textures, it may be warmly recom
mended to the girl who must make
over old fineries. The pictured materi
als are watered silk, chiffon and lace
In a pale wlstarfa tint. But the over
bodice, whose lower tucking- so admira
bly fills out a too slim figure, might be
made of any silk velveteen would be
effective--and the sleeves, tucked and
under arm portions of voile. Wool stuffs
sufficiently dressy could likewise be
used for the entire garment, which, be
cause of its flxiness. suggests itself
for 'high day dress.
With a bodice of this sort and a
draped skirt, twelve yards of silk or
veiling would realize a charming re
ception or matinee gown for st medium
figure.
In the abort sleeved bodice. Fig-ure r,
is depicted one of the regular high
peasant girdles, which, together with
the form of the braided ornamentation,
creates a very effective ensenrble. As
the waist is so picturesque, the style
should be kept for the prettier of the
evening textures, though a palely tinted
cashmere and brocaded silk would
make it . acceptable. As pictured, the
materials are white chiffon for the
foundation, pale blue satin for the gir
dle and sold embroidered tissue for the
plastron and sleeve banding. The pip
ing is of pale blue velvet and the three
buttons at the front are of gold filagree,
with blue sets. ,
This bodice, which would go with a
blue or ivhlte cloth skirt, would be just
the thing for a Christmas dinner. The
small rear drawing shows how easily
the style may be made high-neck and
long-sleeve.
Nothing could be. prettier for semi
droes than the. last model. Figure E.
For the over-bodice an old dress in
one material may be used, the banding
could be of plain velvet or satin ribbon
and the tucking of cheap silk. As illus'
trated. the materials are an oddly pat
terned silk in a pale browrr. a matching
guipure with a velvet edge, and plain
net In : exactly the bodice tone.
MARY DEAN.
Recipes for Tea
, and Luncheon
GREEN Mayonnatee for a Green Lunch
eon: Take leaves of chevril, tarra
gon, chive, parsley and spinach, lettuce,
or water cress and pound them In a mor
tar with a tea spoon of lemon juice. Ex
press the juice from the mixture and add
it to the mayonnaise. In this form it is
called Ravigote sauce. For deeper color
ing add mashed green peas.
Halibut Timbalee for a White Luncheon:-
Take a half pound of halibut, cut
it into fine pieces - and pound them in a
mortar until they can be passed through
a sieve. Mix a cup of white bread
crumbs, and a. half cup of milk. Stir
these over the fire to a smooth paste.
Then remove from the fire and mix with
the fish, adding a half teaspoon of salt
and a dash of paprika. -Beat lightly5 the
whites of five eggs.' and add to the mix
ture. Fill a buttered timbale mold, or
the individual molds as preferred, and set
them in a pan of hot water in a moder
ate oven. Bake twenty minutes, and
serve with a. white sauce.
Pistache Cake for a Green Tea: Make
a three-layer - cake with the ..whites of
nine eggs, two cups of graulated sugar,
three heaping cups of flour sifted several
times, one cup of butter, one cup of milk.
two teaspoons 'of baking poyder, and orieH
teaspoon of lemon juice. Between the
layers put a cream filling made of the
yokes of five eggs. - a half cup of sugar,
one tablespoonful of corn starch, and two
cups of boiling' milk. Stir over the fire
until thick, then flavor with orange
flower water and bitter almond;, to give
it a pistache flavor and color -a delicate
green with confectioner's color. Tint, the
icing also green, and sprinkle with
chopped pistache nuts.
Fruid Salad: Select a pineapple, if pos
sible with the green tuf ts - at the end.
Cut It off horizontally one-third from the
top and scoop out. the greater part of the
inside. Peel three nectarine oranges and
cut them in small pieces; in like manner
peel and out four bananas. Peel and take
the seeds out of two pounds of Muscat
and California grapes. Put all these in a
bowl. Take another bowl and squeeze
into it the juice of two oranges, and add
a half-pound of powdered sugar, a half
pint of inaraschina. a gill of brandy, and
three tablespoons of crushed ice. Mix
well and having filled the pineapple with
the fruit. . pour over the dressing, cover
with whipped cream and . decorate with
grapes. -
Chestnut Salad: Boil until tender Ital
ian, French or Spanish chestnuts, remove
the shells and, skins and rub them
.through a sieve. Pile them in a light
powdery heap in a glass dish. Pour over
them a wine glass -of sherry or Marsala,
and cover with whipped cream. .
Colk'sre Song Shocks Co-Eds.
New York Press.
Young women students in Iceland
Stanford University have placed one of
the most popular songs of that institu
tion under the ban for the reason it
refers to beer and also contains a pro
fane word. The song has been chorused
by the students, co-eds and all. at the
football games, track meets and other
college gatherings for several years,
and not until recently were the young
women shocked by its verses. It ap
pears that the disapproval of the co
eds was not entirely voluntary. At
a recent football ga.me, when the boys
started the song, which was written by
Will Irwin, to the tune of "A Son of a
FIGURE C.
Gambolier." there came., a storm of
hisses from the girls' section; The men
were surprised. They started the sec
ond verse, in which there is-a reference
to the realm over which Satan pre
sides. There was another outburst of
hisses. The song, w-as stopped then and
there. After the game inquiries were
made as to the , reason for the action
of the young, women students, and the
men were informed that Airs.- Allen, the
"house "mother" -of the : Kappa Kappa
Gamma Society, and dean of the wo
men's faculty of the university, had
placed the - song in - the "undesirable" .
list, and Instructed the girls to hiss it.
"She doesn't -like the cuss word in it.
nor the reference, to beer," a co-ed. ex
plained. Recipe for Fig Pudding.
Fig Pudding Soak a cup of fine
crumbs in a cup; of milkv Add three
eggs well beaten, a half-teaspoon each
of salt, nutmeg and-cinnamon, three
ounces of finely rubbed suet and a half
cup of granulated sugar. Stir in a
half pound of chopped figs dredged with
flour. Beat hard and steam for three
hours. Set ' in the oven for five min-
' utes and serve-with hard sauce.
CAUSE AND
THIS Is a story of woman and the
crazy-about-Christmas fever.
However,"" I am not responsible
for the phrase. It came from a big
doctor who makes a specialty of nerv
our disorders, and who calmly-let 'fall
this astounding diagnosis while feeling
a woman's pulse.
"But. doctor," cried the dame, indig-
FIGURE
nantly, "look at my face. See how sal
low I am, how dull my eyes look. And
my month surely my mouth never 'had
that drawn, unhappy droop before. Oh,
don't joke with me. My face, is proof
proof that I am ill. Besides "
"Holiday face," broke in the doctor,
laconically as he settled himself back
In the big leather chair and interlaced
liis fingers over 'his plump ' waistcoat.
"It is the result of the disease. I see
It every day now. And after Christ
mas well, then, both the. beauty doc
tors and I will have more to do."
The woman pricked -up her ears she
was rather proud of her looks, exceed
ingly careful of them; and so. as the
doctor began again, she listened like a
lamb at the end of a blue ribbon.
"The trouble with you women." said
the doctor, -"is that -you go to extremes
in everything, and whether you are fit
ted for It or not. von will try to keep
up with the Christmas race. You leave
your gift-buying till the last minute,
and then try to get $100 worth of stuff
for JIO. You break your backs over
Latest Word in
Xmas Toys
WITHOUT any educational intention,
the youngsters aremade to take
an intelligent interest in whatever is en
gaging the Interest - of the grown-ups
through the Christmas" toys. This sea
son is particularly rich- in aeroplanes,
dirigible balloons, in heliographs, fild
glasses. Improved automobiles and motor
boats, and various electrical devices. . The
prices range from JoO to 35 cent.
It is a good scheme, when parents con
sider .the educational .value of toys, to
add each year to whatever plant a . boy
seems to be interested in. Thus, - a boy
fancylng the Are department has now
a well-equipped plant, the different pieces
being given to him . on successive Christ -mases.
In tbist way his knowledge has
been increased and his interest sustained.
Everything conceivable for the practi
cal running of railway trains has been
provided for the holidays, including tun
nels, switches, signals, cars laden with
coal, lumber, mail-coaches and even, the
people running to catch the ' trains.. The
entire plant is expensive. But it may be
suggested that the diftirent members of
a family wishing- to remember a boy,
combine and' buy the difrorent pieces, so
that he may get an Intelligent idea of
what railrVdlng means.
The North Pole controversy appears In
various forms. The Polar bears- of the
season bid. fair to be as popular as the
Teddv bears have been and they have a
most engaging expression of countenance. I
Peary" and Cook games are found in dif
ferent forms. One is a board on which
tbe routes of the different explorers are
marked, and conditions are prescribed for
a number of movements which determine
which of the two little figures makes tins
Pole and return.
Ex-President Roosevelt's .hunting ex
cursion has brought out" not only a men
agerie of hippopotami, elephants and. es
pecially lions, but many queer birds that
are made to fly, waddle and otherwise
conduct themselves by their internal ma
chinery. While somebody has been decrying toy
soldiers and implements of war for chil
dren, it is significant that, these were
never more prominent and engaging. Toy
soldiers are now made, to go throug.1
their evolutions by means of an electrical
contrivance. " ..;:;" . ' ' ;
CURE OF HOLIDAY FACE
the presents made at home If you are
not stewing in the hot shops. You
spend hours and hours getting -the
house ready for the feast, which should
be mainly one of quiet, rest and tran
quil, .serious thought you " brew and
bake to the death, and sit up till th
wee hours thinking that the children's
Christmas tree must be -bigger than
B.
Mrs. Green's. You take a. cold ice
cream soda on the shopping days In
stead of the decent warm luncheon you
are used to. You neither sleep prop
erly nor exercise properly. So, of
course, you feci badly- and have the
holiday face the l-hate-Christmas-and-everything-about-it
face.
"But, my dear madam, there is a cure
common sense the understanding
that nature has the whip hand. -So go
home and behave yourself, for you
don't need a single pill." And the dear
old doctor laughed as he pushed hla
patient out of the door.
I had gone wit her -to his office, for
this blessed goose of a woman was my
own sister, and I found myself so im
pressed witli the doctor's .argument
that I 'determined to put It to account
for the - sake of all - the other foolish
women who may be inclined to overdo
things at this merry holiday time.
So to begin:
Go slowly with your Christmas work
it! you would keep well. and pretty at
this trying time. Make hp your mind
7 i
f v D
before you go to the shop what you
want and then buy it without shilly
shallying; -for indecision is another
peg that Mistress Ugliness keeps in
her closet for the hanging up of littla
wrinkles and what not. Walk between
your visits to the various stores so as
to catch the beautifying properties that
lie in fresh air, and stay no longer
than a half or three-quarters of an
hour at a time in any shop. No mat
ter what eventful business is on the
carpet, eat the warm lunehern you are
accustomed to at the regular hour.
And if you begin to feel the Furies
thumping at. the back of your neck
before you have finished what you wajit
to do go up into the women's rest
room of the store, or into a quiet cham
ber of your own home, and sit in a big
chair with yo;ir eyes closed, or lie
down on the louncre. and try to forget
for 20 minutes that you ever heard of
Christmas. Say to yourself at all
times and in all places, with; the first
breath of fatigue. "I must stop now or
I'll get the holiday face."
But even if there are no pills for the
crazy-about-Christmas sickness. Beau
ty has some little treatments for the
first signs that bodily exhaustion and
mental distress leave upon the face:
and if these are taken in time, the
cheek of prettiness will certainly be
helped.
After any bit of hard work, if the
face is bathed in warm water, doctored
with a. few drops of tincture of ben
zoin, tile tired muscles and drawn skin
will be Immediately rested. Then, as
soon as it is possible to do it without
too much effort, a few massage move-"1
merrts with a facial cream will do much
to. straighten out the horizontal line
which has come or has deepened in the
forehead, help to- harden all the mus
cles of the dragged cheeks, and bright
en all the coloring.
Begin these movements by worklnr
over the muscles of the cheek just in
front of the upper half of the ear. Use
the three long fingers of the hand, rub
bing outward and upward with a firm
but gentle touch In a rotary manner,
covering a place about -the size of a
silver dollar. Tr the muscle which
needs this 'soothing manipulation is
correctly found the muscles shout the
corners of- the mouth will pull taut.
Next, massage the temple muscles in
the same way, and smooth the fore
head with the fingers of botli hands
away from the horizontal worry-line.
Then go over this line with cream and
the rotary movements, keeping on the
face a bla.nd, smoothed-out expression
while doing it. The cheek muscles
must be manipulated with a clawing
movement, which is light and quick
and never the least pinching.
Finally, fold a silk handkerchief or
soft cloth, as for a toothache band
age; place the middle of it under your
chin and tie the ends tightly at tho
top of the head. This keeps the mus
cles under the chin from sagging dur
ing the rest, which should be taken in
a quiet, darkened room. As nothing iti
the world gives a woman as old look
so quickly as sagging chin muscles,
they should me massaged religiously
every night.
The tired face which is to say the
"holiday face" is bound to have dry,
hard skin, and to help this to recuper
ate more promptly an invigoratinsr
skin tonic may be needed. One used
by the peauties of ancient Franco is as
follows:
White-wine vinegar .............1 pint
Honey ..........2 ounces
Isinglass .- ...l'j ounces
Nutmeg .......... ..........1. ounce
Red sandalwood (shredded) . ?i drachm
Put all together in a double boiler
and let the concoction simmer for half
an hour without coming to a boll. Strain
through doubled cheesecloth and apply
after a cleansing bath with, hot water
and a good soap. Iet the lotion dry
upon the skin, but do not leave it on
all night.
llelicate skins which are immediately
sensitlve to dust and fire are much
helped if a coating of cold cream is put
on before the Christmas sweeping and
baking; and, of course, such skins
should never venture forth into the
winds and dusts of the streets without
this protection under the powder. The
finer quality of cucumber and lettuce
creams on the market are excellent for
this purpose.
Finally, oh. gentle reader, do not fail
to remember that if you are attacked
by the crazy-about-Christmas fever anil
if you let it rtin on too lonr, there will
be no immediate cure of the "holiday
face" in. at least one specific case: for
there are no ill effects so hnrrt to cure
as those caused by continued bodily ex
haustion and mental fussing and fum
ing. So be wise in your Christmas ef
forts, whatever they are. if you want
to look pretty on that blessed day as
well as act prettily.
Take it easy.
KATHKR1NR JinrtTOX.
Grows Hair
and we can
PROVE IT!
ANDERINE is to the hair what fresh showers
of rain and sunshine are to vegetation. It
goes right to the roots, invigorates and
strengthens thrm. Its exhilarating, stimulating and
lite-producing properties cause the hair to grow
abundantly long, strong and beautiful. It at
once imparts m sparkling brilliancy and vel
vety softness to the hair, and a few weeks
use will cause new hair to sprout all over the
scalp. Use it every day for a short time,
after which two or three times a week ,wi!l
be sufficient to complete whatever growth
you desire.
A ldy Iron St. Paul writes in ubs!ancaw
(ollow:
When I becn ualng 'andrIoe mv twtr
would not come to tny ebouldcrs and uow
ltts away below my hipa."
Another from Newark. N. J.
T hare been using Dsoderlce TCR'iUriy.
TPhcQl first started to we. It I bad very lit
tle hair. now I bsve the most beautiful lone
sod tbickbalr anyone would want to have.
NOW at all druggists in threo
sizes 25c, 50c and $1.00
per bottle
Danderine enjoys a greater sale than
any other one preparation regardless of kind
or brand, and it has a much greater sale than
all of the other hair preparations in the
world combined.
PRFF To show bow quickly Dindtrms
acts, we will send a large sam
ple free by return mail to anyone wbo
sends this free coupon to the
KKOVfLTON OANDERINE CO., CHICAGO, ILL,
with their name and address and 10c
in silver or stamps to pay postage.