THE SUNDAY OEEGOXIAX, POUTXAXD, NTOTEMBER 7, 1909.
6
BT ANNTB LAURA MITiT.KB.
r' loyal Orrcomans who know son-
1 thing of the beauties of th Cascade
. Range -were to write & series of beati
"redes they would probably begin:
Blessed be tbe Lord, the creator of mighty
t tnoiaitalna, of tow-ertna forastai of swtft-rosb-
try maters and of the beasts and birds and
h that inhabit them.
. Biassed ba the forest ran(rrs, the buHoera
ef trail tfcrouKh. the trackless wilderness.
Blessed bo the Inventor of the cowboy sad
dle, wbereia mankind mar rid In perfect
ecttnty.
Bleflsed be the maker of comfortable walk-
lcc boots and biassed alJ be the makr of
the bobnalls In their soles.
Although It Isn't so meant, that last
blessing may seem irreverent to some
formal ecclesiastic in his study, if. any such
are left in the world, but the great com
pany of lovers of outdoor walks will sym
pathize. Good boots that fit In these days
of As as wide as EEs and 2s as long as 5s,
are a Joy so long as they last and every
mountaineer knows the feeling of confi
dence that hobnails give. It was with
keen regret that I finally discarded my
own stout walking boots. They had been
k a! f -soled and hobnailed and when, as the
result of much tramping for views and
huckleberries, and many wettings on fish
ing trips they became, like Achillea, vul
nerable In the heel, the carpenter at Mc
Kenzie Bridge turned cobbler and sewed
large patches cut from the tongue, over
the tender spots. Thus reinforced they
carried me on the best trip of the Sum
mer, but that ended their career; they
were quite cut to pieces by larva azrd X
threw them away, somewhat sadly, for
I had had such "good times" in them.
Moreover, I may never see their like
again; a pedestrian friend Is obliged to
wear a double amount of hosiery on one
foot and a heel cap and lnsle on the
other when, attired in a pair of the latest
cut!
Tou see, we took a trail trip in the Cas
cade Mountains' and were gone from that
pleasant state of affairs which the old
lady called "civilisation" 10 days; long
enough to appreciate to the full the great
fceauties ot the upper McKenzie River,
with the lakes from which It flows, and
Jong enoug to appreciate, too. the charms
of civil lif when we returned.
On the morning of the 16th of August
we left Bvlknap Springs, some 60 miles
tip the McKenzie from Eugene, and we
-were several hours leaving, for only one
;pack horse was obtainable. Instead of the
i promised two. Stout old Dan was so
lleaped with camping outfit that only his
face and tail were visible, and what was
Jeft from his pack was tied on our rid
ing saddles In such fashion that It took
reat agility to mount. Even then, as
the August skies of Oregon are nsvaiTy
unfailingly blue, we discarded the tent
as an effeminate luxury and took in its
stead a tarpaulin. We were soon across
the bridge and away, following the lonely
rtver until the trail made one Z after an
.th., n tiA flteeo mountain side. The
! horses went lunging upwards stopping of-
ten for breath, while we sat In the high
i backed saddles as comfortable as If we
iwere in rocking chairs doing the wecCTs
'mending. Dan's pack worked loose anJ
the bag of tinware tied on top of the load
rattled and banged like cymbals.
The trail rlown the other side of the
mountain was steep and narrow, yet
down we went with comparative ease,
standing UP - In the stirrups, with the
horns of the saddles like towers of
strength In front of us. "We came then
to a lonely flat where tall lady fern
grew among the aiders, then to a thicket
of salal under giant fira Little limpid
streams were running to the river. Small
'ferns made a lacey pattern on the moss
carpet, and here and there were clusters
or Indian pipes, the fragile ghost flowers
of the woods. At one place where the
trail went high on the hillside In open
timber, dozens of little trails ran down
'toward the river; some were old, old
'trails and some were new. but. all ran
down to the lick where so many deer
came in the early days that people made
: a business of killing them for thoir
' hides. Only a few deer coins now and
: a few wild pigeons that thirst for the
warm salt water.
Our horses were interesting characters,
with personalities quite as distinct as
'those of human beings. "Bill" Yale, our
guide, led Dan. end Dan, a husky, plod
ding farm animal in mind and form, led
the team at Uie tober gait uf two miles
:an hour. "Sis" was a bunehgrass - boy,
the kind of horse a cowboy would ride
!whn encased in "shooting up town"
pretty and lively. 1 ut as ijrnorant of the
.limitations of a trail that she frisked
her keels over its narrow edge time and
,e.'iin. bolrs pave J from a ttiir.ble, some
'tirres by hanpy accident and sometimes
' by he-r rider" pood sense. "Koamey,"
inarred for his cort hy some former ini
spinatlve ov.-iier was youn.cr. but far too
st j.d to be surprised at anything or to
mtk a f.-.lse st-p. Ha had all the con
ventional n'arv;?r of a correct boardhig
srnool miss. Inceetl, in a way. one
'night call him a boarding-school product,
for h 7Cuth had he:n t-pent in a fash
ionable city ruling acaicmy. "Knife"
was an Inili.in pony, so named by the ln-
di.ir because hl;i flat sides and promi
'nent barKliono made l.im look Just like a
Jnik-ktiitc. AcciiMomc.l to trails, he
trawled them without ever looking white
he we-.u. seeming to hnve a sense of feel
ing In his hoof liite the sens of feeling
in the fingers of the blind. Away from
te slow gait of the pack horse, per
uad:d by an ald-r switch. Knife had a
c-iiious up-and-down gallop that gnve his
ririor an amazii.g apivtite: and once he
showed such unwonted activity, out up so
badiy. thut we decided the Jndtane had
moro reasons that one for naming him
Knife.
Were yon ever in a yellow Jackets
nest? It Is an exoerelnce so common
'to mountaineers and so dreaded by them
j that the bravest would rather face an
cgry bear than be stung. We were
(going along at peace with the world In
a beautiful spot where the trail ran on a
narrow shelf between a high mountain'
and the river, when Dn stirred tbem up.
' Eis bolted, flourishing hr tail wildly,
and Knife, unwittingly held by his terrl-
i fled nder exactly over the tree root
irrom which the jackets were swsmiing.
! bucked before, bucked behind, whirled
' madly around and kicked with all his
might until his riders glasses fell off
. and she herself fell under his nose,
wbUe Roanery, of the riding school, safe
3n the distance, looked on disapprovingly.
i At noon we all met again by a stream.
v where we had lunch. We had collected
stings enough amongst us to agree that
a sting on the side of the head hurt the
worst, while one under the ere looked
the worst, and one on tr.e hand did the
.most damage to one's usefulness. Sev
eral days afterward we were able to
laugh at the suggestion of Bis rMar h
Lbad escaped.- miun g h at "tliewholo i.
Wdent wouM have made a good aeries
-ot moving pictures.
Tbat night we made the abandoned
camp of the Southern Pacific Co., a little
pioneer clearing of rude houses a mils
and a half from the main trail. There
was a spring of ice-cold water, a stove
built of sheet Iron laid on big rocks, a
table and some arts-and-crafty chairs.
One chair big enough for our childhood's
friend, the Papa Bear," had "the
throne" carved In its back. We sat In
it very little; it may be because of our
being democratlo Americana, but more
likely because of its being uncomfort
able. Darkness fell on us almost as soon
as supper was eaten and our bough beds
made against the side of the shanty.
Away up In the mass of broken lava on
the mountain above us. a coney uttered
DAUGHTER OF -SECRETARY
THE
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runTtrtr-'' '-'"'
HISS FLORA. WILSOJf.
XEW YORK. Now. (Special-) Much interest is being manifested
In the forthoomlng tour to the Pacifio Coast of Miss Flora W lis an,
coloratura soprano, daughter of the Secretary of Agriculture, who will
challenge the interest and approval of both the social and artistic world.
Beginning the last week in this month she will be heard In a large num
ber of Western State and ail thjongh. the-South.
JJ
t.JW.
Rough Trip
fam. of
Its lonely cry; then there was no sound
except those near me sleeping, so I lay
looking at the stars above the big black
fir trees, at the big dipper dipping to
ward the river, and at the Milky Way
growing milkier every minute. I was
deciding that the Idea of a celestial cow
herd upsetting a pall of. milk across the
sky did not do the sight Justice; the
Japanese showing far more appreciation
of that lovely stream of tiny stars when
they called It the Silver River of Heaven,
and I was trying to remember the pretty
love story that goes with the name when
the dog (nothing as yet has been said
of the dog. Sailor was his name 'and he
was a shepherd, with 9. strong leaning
toward bear hunting) the dog aroused
the camp by his growling. Some one
called "Mr. Tale, what is it?" and Mr.
Tale from his faraway resting place
shouted back to calm our fears: "Only a
OF AGBICULTTOE WILL TOUR
WEST.
- J.IJL - l - J - 1l
Bsachvatersf jheJMemie RfecHjK-
Joy ;With Minkim
skunk." But the next morning after
breakfast the fact came to light, that
an old she bear with two cubs had
passed through the camp.
We had turned aside from the main
trail because we wanted to see the
lower fall of the McKenzie; so soon
after breakfast we packed a lunch
and started. For more than & mile we
toiled over a stream of lava that had
hardened and cracked as . It flowed
years and years ago, and had crumbled
in some, places enough for moss and
lichens, hardy ferns, huckleberry
bushes and trees to gain a foothold.
We tried to follow the path but it was
so Indistinct In the rough rock and the
blazed trees so Infrequent that we
abandoned it altogether when we heard
the roar of the fall. The river runs
with foaming water, white as snow
crystals, and big green pools down In
a deep gorge. Following up its bank
we came to the falL It is 80 feet high
and a fine sight, though robbed of much
of Its beauty by most of the stream
sinking -through the lava above . and
gushing out near the foot of the 'fall.
Its glory is the great round basin be
low it, an acre in extent, surrounded by
a sheer rock wall on one side and on
the other by the steep mountainside.
The water of the pool is like some won
derful opal, dark blue, purple, bright
green, silver and ky blue where the
ripples break and golden brown where
the sunlight pierces Its depths! and it
is set in the dull gray of the lava rock
and the soft yellow green of mosses,
ferns and trees that clothe the moun
tain slope, making an exquisite pic
ture. The next morning when the sunlight
struck the top of the mountain 900 feet
above us we arose and made haste for
our way led along the ridge of that
mountain. Back in the main trail we
began to climb, going up and
up a southern slope - covered with
brake. ' From its summit we bad
wide view of the. wooded range
below us with the Three Slaters
and the shell of an old volcano, once
another sister. The narrow ridge be
came a dismal place covered with the
mere unclothed skeletons of trees,
their dead limbs reaching in every di
rection. A Jay squawked overhead, and
two tiny song birds were makijig their
Summer home in te Inhospitable spot,
but we saw no other signs of life ex
cept the tracks of deer that had been
trailing the night before. Once out of
the ghostly wood the trail became a
level path, a credit to its ranger buiM-
golng through an open park of nr
and larch trees. Here and thera, big
bears had measured their height on
the biased trees beside the trail, mak
ing their marks, as if they thought
they were overreaching some smaller
enemy above the man-made signs on
tbe trees; here and there they had
knockedold stumps to pieces and eaten
colonies of ants out of house and home.
The ugly black and white spiders, too,
must have -had a grudge against man
kind, for again and again we ran into
their webs woven so that they hit a
horseback rider in the face. It was late
afternoon when we passed the forest
ranger's place and came at last to Fish
Lake.
Fish Lake In the Spring is three
miles long, but the thirsty Summer sun
comes up from Eastern Oregon to
drink It almost dry, and when we saw
It nothing remained except occasional
pools and streamlets In a field of high
grass, surrounded cy empty curving
beaches and. -forest trees. Nevertheless
It was extremely picturesque, and we
felt like a Remington painting a we
of Comfort t
other side. Very slowly we rode and
In the grass, for every path was black
with thousands of tiny frogs and every
pool had a margin Ot them . several
inches wide. We stayed that night at
the simple hotel, and the next morn
ing went on over the two-mile trail to
Clear Lake. Here we struck camp, and
remained for two days, while the
horses reveled in the lush grass and
the society of their kind at Fish Lake.
Those were pleasant days. We wom
en emerged from a dressing-room made
of the tarpaulin and walked through
the dewy fern to the wash basin, which
was the lake itself, sparkling in the
morning light. Our dining table was
a joy made of shakes, with logs for
seats, but cooking in that particular
camp was almost as unpopular as dish
washing, for we had no sheetiron to
ONE OF THE SCIENTISTS OF
''7!
DR. JOHX W.
f X
5
t
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L
NEW YORK, Nov. ft. (SpecIaL One of the members of the
Peary party Is Dr. John W. Goodsell, from New Kensington, Ohio. He
is a graduate of CinclnnattI Medical College. He went with Peary as
surgeon, but in addition to this work he expected to make certain scien
tific observations wiilch should be of great value" to the world.
; It
make -a top and the stove, left by for
mer campers, was a eimple hole In thef
ground, with a draft that blew the
smoke Into the faces of the cook and
her assistants, making us all cry. How
the biscuits burned before they were
done in the frying pan and how the
ham grew cold and was rescued Just
in time from Sailor, while the fish re
fused to brown, and ashes fell into
the beans! Our beds, in spite of the
fir bough mattresses, were very down
hill at the foot, and had to be padded
at night with our walking boots, extra
clothing and fishing tackle. We might
have added our hats, .but combs and
hairpins would have been forever lost
had they not reposed at night in our
hats beside our pillows. The second
night we had a rain scare and made
a tent of the tarpaulin, causing me to
fear that I should not awake, for the
THE PEARY EXPEDITION.
-5.
f'
GOODSEXL.
H4
morning before a hummingbird had
served as alarm clock, waizzing down
in my face. However, a kingfisher,
shrieking tor his breakfast on the lake
shore, served the purpose Just as well.
That night a young buck made him
self at home in our kitchen, but our
bedrooms were widely scattered In the
forest and Sailor was dreaming of bear,
so he escaped unharmed.
One of our greatect pleasures was
boating on the lake, for its waters are
so clear that except in the deepest
parts one sees the bottom seemingly
but a few feet below, covered with
silt or lava, and the boat passes ovef
petrified trees sticking up almost to
the surface, some petrified even to
their tips, looking like great serpents
standing on their heads as the water
ripples over them. We saw one lone
snipe on the lake, a family of scrawny
blue herons and a woodduck that
looked . like a portly Jug of gray pot
tery until he flapped his wings and
stooped to drink. Few of the lake fish
came our way, although a man on a
raft was " having great success with
bread dough for bait; but the few we
caught were beauties of good size and
fine flavor.
Clear Lake is a mfle and a half long
and Its outlet is the McKenzie. We fol
lowed along the river's rushing waters,
fishing with success in pools below a
series of cascades until we came to the
upper fall. It Is a glorious fall with a
sudden rush of power that is terrifying.
The water churned by small falls above
shoots over the brink, a mass of white
bubbles to strike the rocks 120 feet be
low and go swirling and roaming away
down a wild gorge. A walk ef a mils
over lava brought us 'to the second fall,
with Its wild mountain background and
great blue pool 100 feet below.
On the return trip we camped whers
Smith Creek flows Into the McKenzie.
because there is a rock there with a
famous deep pool beneath it full of red
sides, large and venerable. Nine of thera
found their way to our frying pan, but
the three-pounaer, for want of a landing
net, found his way back to the pool.
The next morning we arose (oh! so
early!) and at 7 had everything packed
and were sitting on rolls of bedding wait
ing for Mr. Yalo to come with the horses.
(He had gone for them before breakfast
to their pasture, a mile and a half away.)
The day were on; we unpacked our lunch
and ate it; we decided that the primitive
Jife had grown too primitive; nothing
could make us happy but extreme civili
zation. We saw that our flannel shirts
were dusty and our khaki skirts a sight:
and I felt, regardless of a rich brown
sunburn, ending at collar and cuffs, a
sudden desire to don a satin evening
gown and go to a dinner party, followed
by a box at the theater. But If ws
might have had our dearest wishes fulfilled.-
I think there would have sprung
up, instanteously in the forest firs,
modern bathrooms with white tiled floors,
porcelain tubs, Turkish towels, scented
soaps and endless hot water. Toward
evening Bill Yala came back; he had
arisen while It was still night, met a
timber wolf In 'the trail by the camp
and then trudged on and on back the 13
miles between us and Fish Lake, where
he had found the horses feasting on the
grass they like so well. It was Roaney
of the riding school, with- his social sense
and knowledge of dainty fare developed
by city life above that oi ma am
Ions, who had led the rest astray.
But that night we forgot our troubles
while our guide yarned to us. AU wild
animals, he said, follow man-raafis trails,
but most of all wolves, and they have
regular hunting rounds. Every two
weeks, he said, they came by his place
where he llvs under Bald Mountain. He
showed us on his gun scratches wildcats
had made, and many were the tales he
told of tracking cougars to. their lairs
and of catching deer and bear alive.
One cub he kept until it grew to be a
bear'so big that his wife was afraid the
great beast might kill the children. So
when it -.aire time for the bear to "noie
up" for Winter. Mr. Yale took him down
to the river and shot Mm dead with one
shot of a 4 revolver.
"Oh I shot him decent." said Bill Yale.
"I reckon he thinks he's standln' there
yet."
The next noon we were back at Mc
Kenzie Bridge. When we go again we
want to travel the trail the forest rang
ers are building now, south from Mc-'
Kenzie Bridge through the Cascades to
the California line. That will be a trail
trip well worth the taklr.g.
Relation of Roads to Salt.
London Dally News.
Roads, we are told, owe a great deal
to salt. According to one theory, the
oldest trade routes came into existence
as a result of the traffic In salt. One
of the oldest roads In Italy Is the "Via
Salaria." along which the people of the
Sabine country obtained their salt from
the salt pans of Ostla. Salt was the
main merchandise carried In the trans
Libyan caravans in the days of Herodo
tus, and salt is one of the chief elements
in the trade along the Sahara caravan
routes today. Bait and salt fish. It is
Interesting to remember, entered largely
into the commerce by the Carthaginians.
The latter, by the way, were considered
a delicacy in those pre-Christian days.
When Father Goes to Shoot.
November's near, the law Is off
For all the kinds of game;
And ev'ry year about this time
Pa guns it for the same.
It takes him 'bout a week or so
To fix things up to suit;
An' when tbe fatal mornln' comes
He Bailies forth to shoot.
i
Tve wanted pa to buy a gun
For me, but he says "No";
He says if s fun enough for me
To follow him, an' so
When he starts out I tag behind
To carry all the loot;
It is an awful day for me
When father goes to shoot.
If he would only GIT some game
I wouldn't care a bit;
If he would shoot a hundred) pounds
rd lug the hull of it.
But Lawd! This trampln' round all -day
For nothin' doesn't suit;
I alius dread the time to come
When father goes to shoot.
He stromps around the underbrush
An, looks up in each tree.
An' when he don't see any game
He blames it onto me.
"Hang boys!" says be, "for scarin
game ;
They'd orter get the boot";
Oh, pa is loaded up for bear
When he goes out to shoot.
Pa gets back home mo' tired te death.
An cross as he kin b1
"Ain't supper ready? I am starved:!"
He says to me, say he.
"Oh, yes," says ma, "I thought you'd
like
Some game, cooked up to suit;
Ol' Tabby fetched a rabbit In
.While -yo- waav-out -to shoot.1"
BostOTHeraldV;