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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 24, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 24, 1909
. f The beaver, ad .much In favor in the I fT . ' 1 1
FALL AND WINTER MODES IN FROCKS
GIVE GIRLS MUCH TO CHOOSE FROM
Offerings in. Local Shops Indicate That There Is to B Lots of Dash and Variety in Both Clothing and Millinery.
What Some of the Latest Designs Are Like.
i f mm j I'll
jj )ym. swll 1
' I I : If 'lMfll IfefiWfl
... - '
PROMINENT imam the displays of
the new. Pall and Winter modes
In frocks, coats and millinery are
the showings for children and misses
in their "teens." Every item of the
Juvenile wardrobe has received care
ful attention of the designers and of the
busy buyers for the local merchants,
who are now making; as Important a
point of smart things for the little folks
as for their fashionable elder Bisters
and dainty mammas.
The accompanying- pictures show
some of the leading modes In Juvenile
millinery, frocks for little girls.' and
school and party dresses for the inter
esting young miss just bud dins into
womanhood. Notable for their dash
and variety are the pretty hoods, bon
nets and hats being shown for wee
girls. A rakish little felt shape in
smoke gray, wixh a huge bow of Dres
den silk in the purplish tone with
blendlngs of pink, green and gray, is
shown in sketch No. 1. The flaring roll
at the left side, and the down-turned
right side echo smartly the leading
mode in "grown-up" millinery. This
is one of the "strongest" styles In
school hats, v
Daintily elaborate, and unmistakably
"dress-up" in its glory of pink pan
velvet and towering white pom-pom,
is the little bonnet shown in sketch No.
3. The shape is of fine white felt,
quaintly fashioned into the. "poke"
model, with a saucily upturned bark.
About the crown is wound loosely a
soft mass of crush silk in a blended
pink and white pattern, and against
this are massed loops of vivid pink
pan-velvet ribbon, twice encircling the
crown, and terminating in a hanging
bow of ribbon. At the left side a
showery ostrich plume in pure white
gives a chic-finish to this bit of Juve
JOMELLI WILL SING THE GREAT
. ARIA FROM "THAIS" AT BUNGALOW
Tamoiis Soprano Selects Massenet's Masterpiece as One of Her Numbers on Her Local Programme to Be Given
THE great aria from Massenet's
"Thais" will he a leading feature
of the Jomelli concert at the
Bungalow. October 28. The great so
prano sings this superbly, for it was
Massenet himself wlo coached her in
opera, won by her glorious voice and
.captivating personality when she took
Paris by storm in early part of her
career. "Thais" Is one of the latest
operas of this brilliant French genius,
whose tender. enchanting melodies
have won such a warm place in the
hearts of music-lovers.
The opera is based upon a charming
romance of Anatole. France. Thais was
a real historical figure, a famous beauty
and actress of Alexandria, who had
captivated both the Egyptian Ptolemy
and Alexander the Great. She had ac
companied Alexander and his generals
on the famous campaign that ended In
the downfall of Persia, and was her
self an Athenian, the cause of the
burning of the royal city Persepolis,
'whose riches have been the marvel of
- the world.
At a banquet given by Alexander to
his officers in the magnificent palace
of the Persian kings. Thais suggested
to Alexander that she be permitted to
touch the torch to the paJace in revenge
for the Indignity that Athens had suf
fered from Xerxes, who had set firej to
the beautiful city of the Greeks. Alex
ander, won by Thais" captivating grace
and patriotic passion, as well as by
the dictates of reason. Immediately
rose from the able. and. leading the
way. amid the excited plaudits of his
generals, a chaplet of flowers upon his
head and a lighted torch in his. hand,
touched the brand to the great palace
of the Persians, but as he watched the
flames mount to the sky lie regretted
his hasty act and gave orders for the
fire to be extinguished. But the palace
was doomed, for the order came too
late. It is said that a hermit converted
Thais eventually, but at the loss of his
own soul. Such is the story of the
famous Athenian beauty. .
Gounod's beautiful aria from the
"Queen of Sheba" will also be sung, as
well as the enchanting Schubert song.
Til blst die ruh." Chaminade's "L'Ete,"
Romberg's Nymphs and Sylv-ians." Tos-
tfs "Serenata" and an Indian song by
Wakefleld Cadman. A number of high
ly Interesting novelties adorn the pro
gramme, which will make it one
of the most delightful and fasci
nating heard in Portland for a
y-year and a day. Harriett Ware's
"The Call of the Rahda." J. (J. McDer
mid's Charity and Magdalene Wor
dn's "Longing" show the scope of Jo
melli'S' talent, ftounod's "Ave Maria."
so full of Irresistible appeal to the
human heart, will be given with a
j MADAME JOMELLI, WHO WILL SI.XG ARI.a. FKOH "THAIS."
Miss Marie Nichols, the violinist, will
give a notable Grieg number, two move
ments from the Sonata in G Minor,
overflowing with emotlnnn 1' beauty and
i-ontrast. Among her other violin num
bers will be Wlenia wski's "Faust Fan-
tasie," Lalo's "Chant Russe,
Spanish dance by Sarasate.
Tills delightful musical event is the
first offering of the season by Lois
Steprs-Wrnn Comm. snd Is sure to
atuaut a great audience. I
new displays for "grown-ups." is es
pecially prominent among the show
ings for little folks, and well it might
be, for no more serviceable or com
fortable thing than the beaver has
ever been brought to the fore for the
curly heads of scampering, frolicking
youngsters to whom stiff, easily-damaged
affairs of buckram and velvet
are a nuisance. No. 2 shows a pretty
little beaver in wine red. with Immense
looped bows of wide silk ribbon at
either side, and wound around the hat,
for the protection of face and tresses.
Is one of the Juvenile veils, which are
among the smart accessories far wee
Fine Frock lor Tots.
No. 2 shows a practical little hat and
frock fo.- a to!, of elx or so, wrestling
bravely with her kindergarten problems.
The frock is really an "all-over" apron,
with flaring, accordion-plaited collar and
cuffs, and a silk sash-ribbon of blue,
matching tiie warm under frock. The
hat too. ie of dark blue, with a big "Tarn
o'Shanter" crown -and a big butterfly
bow of stiffened silk in a lighter shade of
blye. Velvet chin ribbons secure the hat
and complete this natty little costunie.
For school and street wear, the "middy"
frock is winning its way swiftly among
local misses. No. 6 shows an attrac
tive "middy" suit in navy blue storm
serste. heavily stitched and tailored, and
brightened with satin collar and cuffs of
dark-blue dotted with white. Saeh and
bow are of rich dark blue silk. The
gimp, with Its high collar, is by many
discarded for indoor wear. It being a
separate piece, and' the loose collar being
so fashioned that It can be closed snugly
about the neck or left in a larger "V"
at will. .
The "co-ed" Jumper 'suit Ls strong in
all the displays, and is seen in increasing
numbers on the street. Some of the
plaids and combinations of color In the
"co-ed" frock are on the garish order,
but this is quite allowable, say the
oracles of fashion, and all the showings
are distinctly towards the warmer color
ings and more striking patterns.
Here's for the Fair "Co-ed."
No. 9 snows a "co-ed" suit In smoke
gray, with the kilting of plaid in blue
and gray. The buttons are in fancy
filigree, with, blue and gray tones, and
with this suR is ahown a. gray felt hat
of dropping brim, with a. big crush, sash
of eilk in gray and blue plaid, with
fringed enos. The orange and browns
are also much used in the kiltings of
the "co-ed" suit, as are also Die red
and green plaids.
An especially pretty and dainty little
party or dancing frock for some for
tunate maid was eatrght by the artist's
pencil just before being folded in tissue
papers and put into a big box for de
livery. It is shown in No. 8. The founda
tion Is of beautiful pinkish-cream taffeta
with liny rose-buds scattered upon this
ground, and over this is the diaphanous
over-frock of soft chiffon, through which
the dainty rose-buds and the shimmer of
the pink-toned taffeta, give a richly
CAST YOUR EYE over THESE BARGAINS
And then come In and see for yourself that we have not exaggerated one iota. We are giving; the values that
draw. We use a powerful business magnet, namely the best goods at the lowest possible selling price, iaok
at the rocker for $3; it is the personification of comfort and really worth twice the price we asK. xou wiu
find other equally as attractive bargains. Low prices are making our firm a household word,
. . n. T-rr it n m l-TTi1TC
A SAFE PLACE TO TRADE BEST VAJjUJSS LUWLoi rxvj.v-.L.o.
We have just received a shipment of
dressers, chiffoniers and beds, in en
ameled ivory, cream and gray finish.
We are prepared to sell these new
finishes in the latest styles for less
than they can be purchased elsewhere.
Call and inspect same.
Mori-is Chairs The "Royal" chair.
"The Push Button kind." All prices,
iflO and up.
Taylor's comfortable rockers. A com
plete line just arrived in following
woods : Fumed oak, early English, wax
golden oak and polished oak, all these
rockers have full spring seats and
genuine baud-buffed leather,' all
Thlc oimrtered colden oak rocker, pol
ish finish, good shape, saddle wood
seat, large and comfortable. This
rocker has very nice figured quartered
oak, built on good neat lines and well
proportioned. This rocker could not be
bought elsewhere for less than $t5; our
price while they last, special. .. .$3
0x12 Axminster Rug..... .520.00
9x12 Velvet Rug $18.50
0x12 Good Tapestry.. ..... $13.50
9xl0; i Bokany Rug $10.50
12-ft. Wild's Linoleum 75
H-t't. Wild's Linoleum G5
ti-ft Wild's Linoleum 60fr
6-i't. Oilcloth, best quality 50
The above pricen include laying.
TV D. i
.'wlli. i;! hi n
Complete line of stoves,
ranges and heaters. Our
prices are the lowest, quality
Iron bed, like' cut, has brass
rail at head and foot, full angle
irons, brass mount, height of
bed 60 inches, extension foot.
jSolid comfort mattress, contains nolh- This is a good strong bed and
ing but pure silk floss and cotton felt in H tterll We ,.au
layers, absolutely clean and sanitary; '.
covered with good art-ticking, roll edge, furnish same in white, cream,
worth $12. Our special price $6.50 green, blue. Our price. .$5.25
Taubenheimer & Schmeer Carpet & Furniture Company
FIRST STREET, CORNER YAMHILL STEEET
dainty effect. The square neck is finished
with rich crfam lace over Dresden ilk.
and hands o the lace and silk finish
the short sleeves, topped by a heavy frill
of the chiffon.
- One of the most popular of the new
offerings is the Ions cape, which may
now be worn by day as well as in the
evening. These all-enveloping wraps,
with their slits for the arms, are ideal
for the protection of a delicate party
frock, as well as for warmth. The
darker wraps are frequently seen on. the
street In the afternoon, answering the
purpose of a rain-cloak, and for eve
ning wear these capes are to be found
in an unsurpassed variety of delicate
tones. The garment shown in Xo. 7
is of soft broadcloth in the raison shad,
with buttons and cord of bronzed green.
METROPOLITAN GRAND OPERA PREPARING
FOR MOST NOTABLE SEASON IN HISTORY
Stara, Orchestra and Choruses Training for Gala Performance of "Lohengrin" and Other Wagnerian Productions.
NEW YORK. Oct. 19. (Special Cor
respondence.) For opra-lovers, for
society and for the musical devotee
who Inhabits the seventh heaven of de
light and of' the. Metropolitan Opera
House, tha aeason opens November IB at
this hoi:se, but for as many people, as
form the population or hundreds of
charminK cities of this country it has
been lively on 'Broadway and Fortieth
street sine the first week in October.
Closed doors are the order, but if one
may penetrate this holy of holies, there
are sights and eoundB of more Interest In
a certain sense than are to be heard
when .opera is in full swing. The great
structure goes up this way the struc
ture upon which is built the brilliant sea
son of finished performances.
Never in the history of the house have
there been an orchestra and a chorus so
large as those that will present the gala,
performance of "Lohengrin" and the
other Wagnerian masterpieces which call
for the full capacity of the Metropolitan
German forces. Four hundred members
in the chorus alone are rehearsing In twos,
in fours and so on. until it is In 2W and
In ton. Bur there Is no gold and BUtter.
The vast stage in a chasm of darkness
but for the little gleams of light here and
there for the benefit of-ithe chorus mas
ters and stage directors who are playing
a game with the pawns of the chessboard.
"What are all these people?" the tin
initiated asks. They 'may be assembled
from all nations, but if this happens to
he the German organization, they are not.
Thev are all Germans, and thoroughly
In the spirit of the great work. They
know the old legends and they live them.
But the orchestra is not German far
from it. For years it has been building
under the powerful baton of Alfred Hertz,
who ls entering his eighth year at the
Metropolitan. This conductor has been
building not alone productions rated as
the most Important of the world, but he
has opened avenues for the American or
chestral player and for the 'American
singer. This he has done in no senti
mental and ' obsequious manner, but
through severity .and the attitude of de
manding its much from an American as
the public demands from the greatest for
eigner. The spirit of the rehearsals is the great
thing; once this is what it should, he, the
performances will take care of them
selves. It will not take long to discover that
there i a personal pride among the or
chestra men to make the Metropolitan
the greatest opera-house of the world,
and it Is a fact that nowhere in the old
world of music ls there a finer or a more
willing body of musicians.
This year will be much easier than in
the past, because the organization is o
large that a complete orchestra can be
taken otit and the entity not disturbed
In the least degree. In other words. If
a body of men play a Wagnerian work,
there will be enough left out to give an
Italian or French work the following
night, and give the others a chance to
rest. While there Is a humane side to
this, it is on the artistic side that the
reward wii! be reaped.
"Der Frelschlite" has been under re
hearsal and the musicians express great
delight in the work, which has not been
given in this country within 3t years. I
asked-the conductor whether the music
will not sound old-fashioned In the pres
ent era of everything that ls ultra mod
ern. He answered:
"T am of the opinion that It will not.
and that It will meet with the-same ap
preciation as does Fidelio' or 'The
Marriage of Figaro,' both of which al
wfy seem welcome to our audiences.
The music of 'Der Freischuts.' or. to
translate. The Freebooter.' a sort of
Robin Hood, is exquisite and. as Hans
von Bulow put it delightfully, "This
Weber opera is unfortunately one of
those works which cannot be done bad
ly, and in consequence it is done to
But it has not been done at all in this
country, and the conductor gives as his
opinion the fact that the dialogue has
kept the management from trying It in
recent years, but he holds that there ls
not enough of this to affect the con
tinuity from a musical standpoint.
Mr. Hertz was then, asked directly why
he had never given it during his years of
authority, to which he answered :
"Several times it has been considered,
hut not in the original version, and T ob
jected to presenting it in any way ex
cept as Weber intended It. The form in
which It was suggested was the one In
which Berlioz supplied recitatives instead
of dialogue for presentation In French,
and I did not like the French version."
This statement naturally led to the
new Humperdinck opera, to hare its first
presentation on any stage this Winter.
According to Mr. Hertz, "The King's
Children" is not only exceedingly beau
tiful music, but he says that the libretto
is of rare and unusual literary worth.
Strangely enough, this work is to be
given in English, for which Mr. Hertz
accounts as follows:
"It is needlctis to say that for opera to
be given in its most ideal form it should
be sung in the language in which "it is
originally written, but we have a higher
mission to perform, and It is time that
we were at It. Opera achieves its great
est results when the people who hear it
understand the words as well as the
music, and when given in a foreign lan
guage, it is certain that but a very small
percentage hear it intelligently."
"This point of view peems to come
rather; late; the Metropolitan has never
lent itself to the English language, nor.
Indeed, to anything that pertains to the
"That cannot be said of the situation
now," answered the conductor who has
been accused of keeping the American
singer off the Metropolitan stage with
considerable success. "The Metropolitan
has never had such a list of American
artists, and until opera In English could
be given quite fis well if not better, than
In a foreign language, the Metropolitan
could not countenance it. Giving thi
In English will make way for other
things, especially we hope that It will
be an encouragement to American com
posers, and If this can be accomplished
successfully it will be epochmaking in
the history of music In this country."
This did not sound as though the
American had much to fear at his hands
and when the matter was hinted at he
replied: "If I have been accused of
antagonism to the American, I can only
say that it ls very unjust, but I can
understand that my methods have been
misconstrued. I have always acted upon
the plan that the only way to bring
the greatest results from this won
derful people was to force the same
standard of perfection In the American
as you demand here of the most noted
foreigners, and I have allowed no sentS
ment. no desire to flatter unduly to
bring the Metropolitan stage down to the
level of amateurs. I have watched the
American singer take his plae. and each
one who comes Into the highest plane Is
a new delight to me. No one has real
ized the triumphant career of Mme.
Fremstad with more joy than I have,
and I shall await a success for Mr. Con
verse's new opera 'The Pipe of Desire'
and feel proud that it was my privilege
to prepare and to direct the first Amer
ican opera to be produced in this coun
try under such auspices."
-Among the Americans to come, to the
Metropolitan stage for the first time this
year are Alice Nellsen, who is well
known In light opera, but who has de
serted that field to appear In grand opera
and Jane Noria. one of the most beau
tiful of the women on the stage. Mme.
Noria made her entrance into the oper
atic field with Henry W. Savage's Castle
Square Company nd afterward she sang
at the Grand Ofera in Paris the roles
of Juliette, Marguerite. Nedda, Elsa,
Elizabeth and Aida. She has also sung
in Monte Carlo. Ostend and Italy.
Mme. Marlska-AMrich last year with
the Manhattan will be of the Metropol
itan forces this season. She is an Amer
ican born of Hungarian parents Mme.
Jane Hannah-Osborne is well-known In
America as a concert and oratorio
singer. She was a resident of Chicago
and went from there to Europe where
she studied under the personal supervi
sion of Niklsch. She has sung with
success Wagnerian roles in Lelpeic and
other German cities, also in Covent
Garden. Clarence-Whitehill. one of the
foremosst artists of Europe who has
sung in Bayreuth with very great suc
cess, will be at the Metropolitan for the
first time this season and other Ameri
cans Include Anna Case, Vera Courte
nay, Elizabeth Clark. Florence Wlckham,
Glenn Hall, and the American singers
of last year Include Geraldine Farrar.
.Rita Fomia, Olive Fremstad, Bernlce
de Pasquali. Roslna Van Dyck, Lillia
Snelllng, Henrietta Wakefield, Ricardo
Martin, AUen C. Hinckley and Herbert
Wttherspoon. Mme. Nordlca will, make
her farewell appearances at the Metro
politan this season and will no doubt re
ceive a hearty welcome after an absence
of six years from this house.
The opening of the New Theater wlli
be one of the most Important events in
the dramatic and musical history of
this country. The first performance will
he given on the afternoon and evening
of November 6, when the house will
be open for inspection In the afternoon.
An invitation performance of "Antony
and Cleopatra" will be given. Until
November 16 the theater will be given
over to drama exclusively but on the
aforesaid date the Metropolitan Opera
Company will open its lyric opera season.
The first performance will be Massa
net's "Werther," which has not been
given in New York for a number of
years. Geraldine Farrar will sing the
part of "Charlotte." Edouard Clement,
from the Paris Opera Comique, will he
beard in fit's title Tole, and either Dlnh
Gilly, of the Paris Opera Comique. or
John Forsell, of Stockholm, will sing the
baritone part of "Albert." The perform
ance will be under direction of Egisto
Tango, a new Italian conductor, who
for some years has been in the Komis
che Opera, of Berlin. The second per
formance of opera will be given at the
matinee the following day, Wednesday,
November 17, when Alfred Hertz will di
rect last season's gigantic success. "The
Bartered Bride." The cast will be the
same which was heard at the Metropol
itan, including Emmy Destinn. Cavl
Jorn, Didur, Relss, Wltherspoon and
The second week "The Barber of Se
ville." will be sung at the Thursday
matinee. Lydia Lipowska, the Russian
coloratura soprano, will make her debut.
Lortzing's "Czar and Zimmermanii,"
will be given Friday e"enlng, November
2fi, with Bella Alten, John- Forsell,
Otto Gqritz. Albert Relss. Herbert Wlth
erspoon and others In the cast. Alfred
Hertz will conduct. In this manner the
operatic performances in the Tfew
Theater will he given all season. Tha.t
is. Tuesday evening and Wednesday aft
ernoon of one week and Thnisday after
noon and Friday evening the week fol
lowing. The opening performance at the Met
ropolitan will take place Monday. No
vember 15, with "La Gloconda." Caruso
will be in the cast.
EMIIJE FRANCES BAUER.
teeing he Town.
We mean to move out In the country In
order to see the town.
No, there's no contradiction when the
facts are all set down.
The wheels must keep on running, If th
city do?s celebrate,
And no matter what's the Attraction,
we've got to keep up our gait.
John and Reuben and Peter come in from
village and farm.
They view the sights with leisure and
bask in the city's charm.
But we must balance our columns snd
measure ribbons and tapes.
We must . edge our way through the peo
ple ani straight to our labors traipa.
John and Peter and Keuben declare
It's a bully show:
We strain our ears for tidings, for they
are the boys that know.
They tell us a demonstration ls timed for
lialf past three.
And a big event is hooked for four a
tiling we must surely see.
We take? a second to listen, and ask
about the crowd,
Wre can hear it down on the pavement
with its tumult, cheerful and loud:
Then we stick our nose in an inkwell
and think of the town's delight.
'But we mean'to move out In the country
In order to see the sights.
It's not the milk and the apples that's
drawing us hack to the land;
We've got no tacte for the simple life.
nor the toils of the hired hand.
We claim no joy in a sunrise, and va
can't go to sleep at eight;
We've got no fond delusions the things
all simple avid straight.
But John and Peter and Reuben get more
than their share of fun;
We've pondered the thing little and
now we know how it's done.
So we mean to move out. In the country,
well knowing that when we've gone
We ll seo the city once In a while and
know what's going on.
9t. Louis Globe-Democrat.
Brltlnh ie of American shoemaktn machinery-
and the makln of half siio and
various widths has lessened the sals of
AirxTlcsn ilioin In Kmrland. or. rth.r. kept
down the expected Increase. The American
shoe stores In Birmingham and London r
UolnK well, -however -
EVERYBODY CAN HAVE BEAUTIFUL
J-J HAIR NOW, and they don t hsve to
wait weeks and months (or results either.
You will notice marked improvement alter
the very first application.
Danderine is quickly end
thoroughly absorbed by the scalp
nd the hair soon shows the
effects of its wonderfully ex
hilirating and life-producing
qualities. It is pleasant and
;asy to use simply apply
it to the scalp and hair
once a day until the
hair begins to grow,
then two or three
limes a. week till
desired results are
and we can
A lady from California writes
in substance as lollows:
I have been ustne your wond er
fal belr tonic for several months
and at last lam nowhlesnedwltta -wonderful
sultof halrthat meas
ures orer 49 Inches In length; tue
braid la over 8 Inches around.
Another from New Jersey:
After using alxth bottle 1
am happy to say that I have as
nloe a bead of balrf anyone In
This Great Hair-Growing
Remedy can now be
had at all druggists in three sizes.
25c, 50c and $1.00
r... To show how quickly
I will send a large sample free
wnrii this freecounon totne
i Ksonlles Datdarlnt Ca., Chltsjs,
' with thelrname and address
and uc in silver or siauips
X . MX ' M A
'i ,' I -