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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 24, 1909)
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY
IT IS no use to deny the fact that the
smarter of the new styles are beyond
the possibility of the verae woman
and young girl, for if materials are not
splendid, the cut is too marked to stand
muster with anything but an appropriate
The finest gown will seem in poor taste
if it trails itself afoot through city streets,
and so every garment which carries with
it an air of superior elegance must pay
the toll of carriages and taxicabs. Ladies,
gorgeously attired, are seen riding with
the glory of Solomon every day of the
world, but the woman or miss of modest
means must perforce train her tastes to
go in more modest directions, and buy the
gown, hat and coat which suit themselves
to streetcars. To do anything else is to
fly in the face of even Fashion's require
ments, for nothing is considered in modish
taste which is out of keeping with the
wearer's environment. But It is not dif
ficult to observe this immutable law of
fashion, for the average wearer is every
season carefully considered, and it only
requires a little Judgment on her part to
settle upon the becoming and riht thing.
In the matter of both materials and
ruts, there are stylish choices everywhere
at inexpensive prices for the genteel
purse, so it Is not to be supposed that my
preliminary harangue Implies that we wo
men of modest purse must go poorly
We must only avoid the pale tissues
nd fine silks and flower-tinted cloths
which call for an equipage of some sort.
We must avoid headgear too big and
striking, and wraps suitable only for one
gown or too fine for any except the dress
iest wear. In other words, we must
choose soft wools for our smart street
frowns wools soberly hued and trimmed
modestly and prettily witli braids or silk
or stitching. Our hats must be chosen
primarily for their becomingness and,
next, for the grace with which they match
the gown. And if only one coat can be
indulged in. it must be of a sort to go
When it conies to the house dress and
odd bodice, a good deal of range may be
given individual tastes, for. after all, the
home is one's kingdom, and there we may
all defy even that haughty autocrat,
The accompanying illustrations give
some Ideas for modest' purses in the way
of ladies' and misses' gowns and odd
bodices. The styles are from late designs,
nd each. In its way, represents a. dis
tinct need of the moment.
Figure A. This pretty checked dress,
with its odd yoke, is a semi-princess
model, which means, mainly, that the
down-running bands of the back and front
of the bodice prevent the look of the
garment being in two pieces. The dress
is suitable for a young woman or youth
ful matron, and, in proper materials it
would be entirely appropriate for mourn
ing wear. -As illustrated, the dress is
made of a brown veiling checked with a
silk stripe in a darker shade, and It is
'trimmed with biases of the same piped
with brown silk and decked at intervals
with tiny brown buttons in groups of
As ths gown stands. It makes a very
' good best dress, but the style permits
the use of any pretty figured silk or
chiffon cloth, as well as an effective pas
sementerie for the bodice.
From the medium figure the waist will
require 3'4 yards of material 24 Inches
wide and 7-8 yard of all-over lace for the
yoke and cuffs. The skirt calls for nine
yards of goods in the same width, or 4
In M-inch width.
Figure B. This smart little princess
dress la for a miss of 14 or 16 years, and
so simple la all Its arrangement that any
growing girl who is clever with her needle
could make the better part of It herself.
The dress can be made with the collar
less neck Illustrated, or with a stock col
lar, and the model permits both the puff
and plain sleeve shown. A deep navy
blue serge, with a trimming of bias black
taffeta silk. Is one good choice for ma
terials if the dress is to have hard usage.
But it could also be made from nutbrown
serge or of a light cashmere or voile, with
tlie sleeve pnffs and trimming of messa
llne. and the tucker and cuffs of a good
The closing of the dress is made at the
left front, and if the fancy sleeves are
used, they must be made over a fitted
liniiwr. The quantity of material required
for the l-year size is 9 yards 24 inches
Figure C. This is not a uniform for an
orphan asylum, as might be fancied from
the prim lines of the dress, but one of
the very popular princess designs with
Jersey top. Such a severe dress is not
becoming to the multitude, but when they
find the right slim and graceful figure,
the Jersey costume is fairly bewildering
with its stylishness, and certainly the
style offers the least possible work con
sistent with reason to the home dress
maker. The model is appropriate for every
thing from gingham to the finest cloth or
silk, and such women as wear corset
bodices instead of the usual heavily boned
armor, will find the semi-loose fit en- ,
tlrely suited to their needs. I
As Illustrated, the dress is made of
raisin-colored serge with the V-shaped
chemisette and sleeve trimmings of silk
in a matching color overlaid with black
soutache. The buttons and the band about
the neck cut of the dress are of velvet
in the exact shade, though these might
also be of silk.
If a smarter material Is wanted, brown,
green, blue or tiyacinthe cloth would
be admirable, in which case the stock
and -vest and sleeve trhnmlngs could be
of a heavy lace or of passementerie over
silk. Again, if Madame chooses, she may
cut her cotton frock after the lines of the
for the Average Woman
smaller model, and still appear like a rea
sonable and stylish being.
A cloth gown made in this design, or a
heavy diagonal serge, would he worn far
Into the Winter without other wrap than
a fur neckpiece and big muff. And since
the dress is so limp in effect, the only
suitable headgear would be a smart tur
ban of rather heavy nature. A hat with
a wild fly-away brim and feathers would
kill the frock entirely.
For the medium figure -HVj yards of
single width goods would be required for
Gigure D. The useful shirtwaist, which
much go with street gowns of serviceable
nature, and which forms such an im
portant detail of home dressing, requires
no recommendation, and yet here is a
model of such admirable simplicity that
It almost deserves a flourish of trumpets.
For what woman who has regard for the
lines of her back has not bewailed the
shirtwaist with fitted rear, and abused it
Hints for the Hallowe'en Party
TH r.KrJ are no lormuiaieo ruies in
the book of etiquette for behavior
at Halloween festivities, but It Is
the general rule for the guests to display
a delighted surprise with all the little
oddities gotten up for their amusement.
It is also the vogue with girls of in
genious tastes to dress in some eccentric
fashion on these occasions, or. at least.
wear fantastic paper caps, whose ca
balistic signs all tell of the night of
witches and mystery.
The invitations to the gathering, es
pecially if it is to be held In a barn, as is
often the case, likewise frequently ex
press the utmost freakishness, the cards
sometimes showing a flight of witches
riding on broomsticks, with the written
words of the Invitation completely cover
ing these. Everything which is odd and
spooky is the vogue for Halloween, so if
you find your place card at the supper
table written on a piece of pasteboard
that suggests a tombstone, pray don't be
at all surprised.
There is no more charming or fitting
place to have a Halloween festivity than
a big. comfortable out-of-town barn, but
failing this, the young folk engaged In
getting up the fun should choose the
house which has a big parlor or dining
room with an adjoining piazza. The car
pets and curtains would need 4o be re
moved from the room. The furnishings
must all be yellow and black, and there
must be a closet or corner curtained off
for the hiding of the reception commit
tee, for each guest must go into the
witched den alone.
Rut If the funmakers are living In the
country, great and unusual amusement
may be had, if the night is clear, by mak
ing the affair an out-of-door one.
A Halloween festivity given one moon
light nighfon the shores of Lake Cham-
besides, 'if she had to make it. for the
difficult adjustment of such styles? The
plain French back of this model, and the
simply tucked front, offer a degree of be
comingness almost universal, for the
style is adapted to the needs of both
the fat and the lean. Twilled French
flannel, or a ' heavy quality of black or
colored satin, soft and lustreless finish.
is much used for such plain bodices, the
color for street wear usually matching
that of the gown.
With a narrow material 34 yards
would be needed for the average figure.
Figrue H. A very stylish odd bodice
of net over silk, with silk bands and lace
stock and cuffs, is here shown. It Is for
a miss of 14 or IS, and, with advantage,
could form part of a fine gown if thj
skirt were of cloth or veiling or cashmere
In a color to match the silk.
For tho medium figure 2?i yards of
tucked net make this dainty garment.
plain was without parallel ' for pictur-esqu-ness.
The place chosen was near
the clubhouse of the Summer colony
where the dancing and the principal
games were to be held later on. As the
guests arrived, they were . halted In the
road by a young man dressed" In a long
black cloak and wearing a pasteboard
head of a black cat with enormous green
eyes. The visitors were blindfolded and
led singly by a circuitous route to a for
est nook, which was lighted by a huge
pumpkin, with a candle behind the eyes
and mouth, in the usual way. -
Here each guest was taken In hand by
three witches, very pretty girls dressed
In the full skirt and white kerchief and
tall pointed cap the old woman wore
when she went to sweep the cobwebs' off
the sky, and forced to dance about the
"cauldron." a three-legged iron pot set
over lighted faggots.
With this unholy rite went the famous
chant of the three witches in "MacbetH","
"Double, double, toil and trouble;
Fire burn and cauldron bubble."
After this the guest was made to salute
"Her Majesty," a green-eyed cat picture.
After that "His Majesty," the pumpkin,
must be kissed, and it was only after
this foolishness and the cauldron dance
and song, that the blinding handkerchief
was taken off and the newcomer allowed
to take part in the reception of every
Alt went to the glen with the utmost
good humor, and not a few young men
discovered when they got there that in
order to be considered eligible for fur
ther fun they must ride a broomstick
around the wood three times '"without
cracking a smile."
There are a number of entertaining
ways of deciding one's fate n this moet
auspicious night, une of them is the old-
time trick of ranging 12 candles on the
floor one for eacli month of the year
over which the guest must Jump with
a single leap. "Whichever month is blown
out by this windy jump' is the one in
which you will be married. Again, you
may write your name on, a bit of paper
and roll It In a ball of wet cornmeal and
drop It down the "well," which is a
washtub of water with the woodwork
concealed by a mass of stones and ferns.
If the paper opens out in the water, you
will be married sometime, but If the ball
remains tight you will remain a bach
elor or maid.
One very startling feature of a number
of Halloween gatherings of late - years
has been a rain of red and black paper
bats, which at a given signal seem to
drop from the very celling around the
startled guests. But the whole truth is
that the bats are concealed In an enor
mous Jack Horner pie, the ribbons at
tached to them are fastened to the cloth
ing of the guests, presumably without
their knowledge, so that when they move
out come the great fluttering denizens
of the dark. The pie is made in a big
washtub and covered with tissue paper,
and to make the bats swarm the guests
must run away from it after the rib
bons have been tied to them.. Of course,
the guests know what is going to happen,
but it is the thing to look frightened, and
if the bat pie is opened all at once, the
sight of the red and black things Jerking
about is quite startling.
To keep up the mystery of the evening,
the Halloween party should break up
abruptly. When the clock strikes 12 the
committee of witches must disappear as
if by magic, whereupon all the guests
must seize their belongings and run away
without a word, never" looking back, lest
all the luck of all the next year be lost.
Jf there Is a supper, little favors of
doll broomsticks can be given to the la
dles, and the men can have pen wipers
held down by black china cats or red
The form of the Invitation will depend
entirely upon the fertility,of the imagina
tion of the young folk who get up the.
fun. Here Is the wording .of one used
at the Lake Champlaln function already
"You are hereby invited to attend the
midnight revels of The Three Witches,
which will be held in the forest nook of
The Seven Maples Blasted by Lightning,
on the last night of October. 1W8.
"Come at eight o'clock with your newts
and toads and sense of humor."
for the Week
BY LILIAN" TINGLE.
Tot Roast With Braised Onions.
Jellied Fruit With Cream.
Cream of Beet Soud.
Sweet Pppr and Cabbage Salad.
Broiled Chops. Potatoes.
Green Beans. Chicory Salad.
Cream of Potato Soup.
Vegetable Curry With Beans.
.Rice. Celery Salad. N"w 'hutney.
Pear Compote. Spice Cakes.
Broiled Hamburger Potatoes.
Apple Salad. Chocolate Pudding-.
Vegetable Broth Flrelcss Cooker Style.
Roast Young Pork.
Browned Onions. Brown Potatoes.
Apple Sauce. Celery Salad.
Grape Sherbet. Cup Cak-as.
Cauliflower With Cream.
Apple Tapioca With Cream.
'ew England Capitols.
Hartford (Conn.) Times.
The New England States have not
been extravagant in expenditures for
state capltol buildings. Massachusetts
has been the most lavish of all. in
spending $5,000,000 or $6,000,000 on an
extension of the old Bulfinch building-,
venerated, as some people think, be
yond' its artistic merits. Even now it
is too small for the state's business. In
Rhode Island the fine, new building re
cently erected at Providence Is already
proving insufficient, the condition
there being much as it is in Connecti
cut, where it has been found necessary
to provide for the Supreme Court and
state library in a building outside the
This new structure, fronting the cap
ltol on its southern side. Is already well
advanced, and is the most important
state building now under way in ew
England. It will cost over $1,000,000,
and will rank with the finer public
buildings of the country. laine and
New Hampshire are each expending
about $350.(fD0 this year in extending
their statehonses, which are old build
ings that cannot be spoiled by addi
tions. 1GIRE C.
Beauty Hints for Maiden
N)W that schools are in full blast
again, and young girls are once
more Imbibing indigestion a fatal
foe of good looks through lack of ex
ercise and sufficient fresh air, beauty's
simpler methods of taking care of the
complexion should be a subject for
every mother's consideration.
What does a good complexion mean
to a girl? It means, at bottom, that all
the functions of the system are in per
fect working order, and that, in conse
quence of this tho particular maiden
so equipped is getting a better chance
with life than her less blessed sisters.
It means that the studies will be eas
ier, and the fortunate maid will be kept
in better temper than if her face skin
harbored the unsightly pimples and sal
lowness which are so much the portion
of school girls. It means, if the good
work is kept up, that the tender cuticle
of the youpg face will be without the
after signs of youthful blemishes that
it will have the right satiny texture
and healthful colorings when Its owner
Mt'L.L.ED CIDER AND ROAST AP
PLES. This excellent drink and
feast is much enhanced if eerved
in a great crockery punch bowl.
New cider is put on to heat to the boil
ing point, and when the scum begins to,
form it Is taken off the fire and poured
over a pile of baked apples, each of
which has been stabbed with a clove and
baked with sugar. To six quarts of cider
the peel of one mon may be added while
It is heating; and when the good stuff is
served to the guests tho wise ones will
suggest the little yellow kitchen bowls
as receptacles, for these permit a whole
apple to each person, and a spoon to eat
Baked Ham With Cider and Brown
Sutrar. Any sort of a ham may be used
for this delicious dainty, though South
ern ham, cured with apple boughs, is
productive of more finesse of taste. As
these hams are sometimes extremely
hard, they need to be soaked in cold
water before cooking. The time neces
sary for this is from five to 12 hours, ac
cording to the alze or hardness of the
ham. The ordinary ham requires no soak
ing, and after a good ecrub it may be
put on at once in a ham pot with suffi
cient boiling water to cover the meat.
When the ham is parboiled which
should be in two or three hours it is
taken off, and at once skinned, brown
sugar half an inch thick plastered over
this side with a- broad knife. It is then
put in a baking pan with a pint of sweet
cider and two or three bay leaves and
baked imtil tender, care being taken all
the while to baste the dainty with the
sugared liquid in the pan. If this liquid
gives out, more cider and sugar must be
put In. for the delicious taste such cook
ing gives depends largely upon the con
tinuous wetting of the ham while it Is
Sweetbread L'rotiiet leo For the same
number of persons (ten) take five cold,
dressed sweetbreads, cut into dice and
mix with the same bulk of mushrooms
cut in the Bame way. Stir both over
the fire in a thick white sauce made
of cream and flour and pour the mix
ture on a shallow platter. When cold
divide Into equal parts , and roll
portions of the same f size into round
balls or torpedo cones.' Then dip them
In egg beaten up with paprika, salt
and a little olive oil, and roll them
in finely grated bread crumbs. Fry in
olive oil till they are crisp and lightly ,
arrives at tho age when the complexion
Is all important.
Few mothers seem to be aware that
with the coming and passing away of
every pimple and blackhead a harden
ing or discoloration of the skin is left
behind. So, for a girl to hare a good
skin when she is grown up, she must
take rare of it when she is still a girl.
To begin at the beginning of. things,
it Is useless to sing the dazzling com
plexion when the operations of Nature
are left unconsidered. No real or lasting-
heautv can he secured for the skin
without attention to the normal needs
of the body good food, the cleansing
bath, exercise and sleep. No hope for
any good change may be expected if
the intestinal tract, kidneys and skin
are hampered In their appointed duties
and regularities. As to the first, upon
whose utmost regularity the welfare of
every other bodily organ may be said
to depend, a severe cathartic generally
will only bring temporary relief, and
so make a bad physical state worse.
So, if Instead of dealing out doses of
browned, drain them of grease on
pieces of white grocer's paper, and
serve piping hot on a warm platter
garnished with sprigs of fresh parsley.
Halloween Salad. Cut some carrots,
turnips, .parsnips and beets into strips
with a scoop and then boil them until
tender without breaking the form of tho
strips. Strain and chill and ad'! if liked,
any other vegetable cooked lnthe same
way, string beans, gherkins, etc. ' Put the
vegetables, which must be very cold. In
a salad dish, sprinkling capers and horse
radish generously between the layers, and
top these off with a layer of mayonnaise.
Shape the salad, while making it. to a
point, and ornament the edge of the dish
with meat Jelly or pickled shrimps or
Chestnut Salad Shell two quaVts of
French chestnuts, throwing away all
that are defective, and put the kernels
over the fire in enough boiling water
barely to cover them. Cook them until
the skins slip off, as with blanched
almonds. Take them from the water,
and as soon as they are cool enough
to handle remove the skins. Then ar
range the peeled chestnule on a bed of
tender white lettuce fringed with strips
of endive. Pour over a French dress
ing and serve with strips of crisp toast
made from white bread.
. .C'hU-ken Consomme For a company
of ten persons, take four old fowls,
skin them and remove all superflous
fat. Disjoint- the birds and let them
stand in cold water for 20 minutes;
then put them on the fire in eight
quarts of perfectly fresh cold water,
with three leeks and a good-sized
bunch of fine herbs. Let the broth
simmer slowly for eight hours, or until
it is reduced to four quarts, and dur
ing the cooking skim carefully.
When the chic-ken has been cooked to
rags, take the vessel from the fire, lift
out the solids and let the liquid be
come thoroughly cold. Skim off the
superflous grease then, and gently re
heat and strain twice through cheese
cloth or a fine strainer. During the
second heating the whites and shells
of three eggs may be put In the broth
for clarifying: but the soup is again
strained and kept in a cold place until
used. When heating It for the break
fast do It gradually, and sprinkle the
broth of each cup with a little finely
chopped fresh psrsley.
Chicken consomme to he s-ood shoi-'J
have a clear golden color.
castor oil and pills so generously to
their young daughters when bad skins
and headaches and backaches hint what
is the matter, anxious mothers should
look mainly to a simple and healthful
diet and other natural means of mas
tering the trouble.
A larger supply " of fresh fruit, pure
drinking water, and simpler viands
than those usually enten will do much
to correct tills serious trouble. And
besides seeing that these are supplied
and taken, the mother should insist
that the young daughter take several
hours of exercise daily in the open air.
A good way to make the fruit tempt
ing is to have a bowl filled with great
Juicy oranges, red-cheeked apples,
grapes, etc.. In the girl's room, so that
she can eat the good things upon wak
ing, and so prepare her Internal econ
omy for all that Is to come.
The Juice of sweet oranges has a won
derful effect on the clearness of the skin
and the brightness of the eyes, and know,
ing this, many famous beauties have
made them the chief article of their diet
all their lives. Honey is also beneficial,
while it is claimed that molasses the
good, old-fashioned, thick kind eaten for
supper every night jRith brown or gluten
bread will bring a throat and cheek aa
firm and glistening as marble.
The health rules call fur from two to
four glasses each time, with a quarter of
an hour spent slowly sipping it. The thing
is not difficult to do, and after you ac
quire the habit of your splendid drink you
wonder how you could have been so "un
tidy" as not to think of washing out your
stomach before. For the water drinking
does just this thing, and after a month of
it every part of the body shows the good
results of the internal scrubbing there is
a lighter head, a clearer eye, a brisker
step, more wisdom, a better complexion.
Every girl should be taught, too. that
to sleep in a bedroom improperly ventilat
ed is to do something as unclean as it is
unhealthful. for surely It Is a repugnant
thought, that of rebrcathlng the poisonous
emanations thrown off during sleep by the
skin and lungs.
If there is only one window in the sleep
ing room this should be kept open at least
several Inches on the coldest night soma
doctors declare wide openand the ilonr
be open to promote a draft from a win
dow elsewhere. The bed need not be in
the draft., but the good, fresh, ever
changing, outside air is necessary not only
for the health of a girl's body and mind,
but for the roses and lilies o her check.
Tell the girl, too, to breathe deeply and
evenly when she can remember it. for'
this loosens up all the stiffening clock
work within, promoting more healthful
sleep, a better digestion, and all the many
facial and bodily signs of Beauty's favor.
Pimples are one of the blights of adtil
esence, hut they are likewise frequently
caused by the voung person's predilection
for fresh hot breads, by eating too fast,
by thinking of studies while eating, and
by doing or allowing to go on unchecked
ail the other beauty destroying things al
ready mentioned. The cure of pimples,
then, depends, first of all, upon a more
sensible regime of living, ahd after that
some little lotion or salve may be used
for temporary relief.
The. following ointment is recommended
for the simpler pimple' from which young,
Salicylic acid .' SO grammes
Pure lard or white vaseline 50 grammes
The substances are thoroughly blended
by stirring or beating, and the ointment
is rubbed into the skin like any cream.
Blackheads that are especially obstinate
need sometimes to be removed with a
watch key, but before this is done the face
must be steamed in order to relax the
pores. Next, grease the ugly little spots
well with vaseline and press down the key
with the opening directly over the "head."
It would be safe to sterilize It first in
boric acid and boiling water. Of course,
care must be taken not to bruise the spot
The soaps provided for a young girl's
use should be of the puret nature, and Hh
for powders and complexion creams, tin
less they are of Infantine simplicity, ihey
are entirely out of place.
It is not thought good taste for a young
girl to use any powder more sophisticated
than talcum or prepared chalk, and even
a violble dust of these is not quite tho
thing. Preparations of glycerine and rosH
water one part of the first to four or five
of the other are also more Innocent In
their effects on young skins than a fancy
cream, but If this seems unkindly to the
skin very excellent cold creams can be
made of pure lard. Wash thle in many
distilled waters until the lard has a cot
tony spongy look, as If filled with oxy
gen, and then scent It with a few drops
of perfume. KATHBR1NW MORTON.
OF INTEREST TO WOMEN
If I could show you how to make
yourself more attractive at very
little expenditure of time and
money, would you he interested T
"Women properly give much time
and thought to dress and to the
improvement of their complexion,
hands, arms and body, but are
often thoughtless regarding the
one element of beauty that can
he easily and quickly improved
and that is woman's crowning
glory, her hair. Nothing com
mands greater admiration than a
wealth of lustrous, beautiful hair.
If you desire to improve your
hair, or if you want to perma
nently retain the present beauty
of your hair, send a postal to-day
for a little book, free, published
by the great Paris Parfumeur,
ED. PINATJD, which tells much
about hair culture and contains
many beauty hints of great value
to refined women.
Ask for ED. PINATJD'S Beauty
Book No. 26 an ""rite to-day to
ED. PINAUD'S American Offices
ED. PINAUO BLOG., NEW YORK
Covets a fresh, smooth, satiny complex-
Ion, and what satisfaction and peace of
mind its possession brings. The lines
of age, worry and overwork are render
ed well nigh powerless by Mrs. Nettie
HARRISON'S LOLA M0NTEZ CREME
A wonderful soother, healer and protec
tor to a dry, contracted or chapped
skin. , It is Complexion Insurance.
Convince yourself of its remarkable
Dower by obtaining a free samole and
Book "SECRET OF BEAUTT AND GOOD HEALTH" at
THK SKIDMDRK 1H( fi CU,
131 Third St., fort land.