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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 24, 1909)
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY Pretty Styles IT IS no use to deny the fact that the smarter of the new styles are beyond the possibility of the verae woman and young girl, for if materials are not splendid, the cut is too marked to stand muster with anything but an appropriate a-ttiJUf. The finest gown will seem in poor taste if it trails itself afoot through city streets, and so every garment which carries with it an air of superior elegance must pay the toll of carriages and taxicabs. Ladies, gorgeously attired, are seen riding with the glory of Solomon every day of the world, but the woman or miss of modest means must perforce train her tastes to go in more modest directions, and buy the gown, hat and coat which suit themselves to streetcars. To do anything else is to fly in the face of even Fashion's require ments, for nothing is considered in modish taste which is out of keeping with the wearer's environment. But It is not dif ficult to observe this immutable law of fashion, for the average wearer is every season carefully considered, and it only requires a little Judgment on her part to settle upon the becoming and riht thing. In the matter of both materials and ruts, there are stylish choices everywhere at inexpensive prices for the genteel purse, so it Is not to be supposed that my preliminary harangue Implies that we wo men of modest purse must go poorly dressed. We must only avoid the pale tissues nd fine silks and flower-tinted cloths which call for an equipage of some sort. We must avoid headgear too big and striking, and wraps suitable only for one gown or too fine for any except the dress iest wear. In other words, we must choose soft wools for our smart street frowns wools soberly hued and trimmed modestly and prettily witli braids or silk or stitching. Our hats must be chosen primarily for their becomingness and, next, for the grace with which they match the gown. And if only one coat can be indulged in. it must be of a sort to go with everything. When it conies to the house dress and odd bodice, a good deal of range may be given individual tastes, for. after all, the home is one's kingdom, and there we may all defy even that haughty autocrat, Dame Fashion. The accompanying illustrations give some Ideas for modest' purses in the way of ladies' and misses' gowns and odd bodices. The styles are from late designs, nd each. In its way, represents a. dis tinct need of the moment. Figure A. This pretty checked dress, with its odd yoke, is a semi-princess model, which means, mainly, that the down-running bands of the back and front of the bodice prevent the look of the garment being in two pieces. The dress is suitable for a young woman or youth ful matron, and, in proper materials it would be entirely appropriate for mourn ing wear. -As illustrated, the dress is made of a brown veiling checked with a silk stripe in a darker shade, and It is 'trimmed with biases of the same piped with brown silk and decked at intervals with tiny brown buttons in groups of three. As ths gown stands. It makes a very ' good best dress, but the style permits the use of any pretty figured silk or chiffon cloth, as well as an effective pas sementerie for the bodice. From the medium figure the waist will require 3'4 yards of material 24 Inches wide and 7-8 yard of all-over lace for the yoke and cuffs. The skirt calls for nine yards of goods in the same width, or 4 In M-inch width. Figure B. This smart little princess dress la for a miss of 14 or 16 years, and so simple la all Its arrangement that any growing girl who is clever with her needle could make the better part of It herself. The dress can be made with the collar less neck Illustrated, or with a stock col lar, and the model permits both the puff and plain sleeve shown. A deep navy blue serge, with a trimming of bias black taffeta silk. Is one good choice for ma terials if the dress is to have hard usage. But it could also be made from nutbrown serge or of a light cashmere or voile, with tlie sleeve pnffs and trimming of messa llne. and the tucker and cuffs of a good all-over lace. The closing of the dress is made at the left front, and if the fancy sleeves are used, they must be made over a fitted liniiwr. The quantity of material required for the l-year size is 9 yards 24 inches wide. Figure C. This is not a uniform for an orphan asylum, as might be fancied from the prim lines of the dress, but one of the very popular princess designs with Jersey top. Such a severe dress is not becoming to the multitude, but when they find the right slim and graceful figure, the Jersey costume is fairly bewildering with its stylishness, and certainly the style offers the least possible work con sistent with reason to the home dress maker. The model is appropriate for every thing from gingham to the finest cloth or silk, and such women as wear corset bodices instead of the usual heavily boned armor, will find the semi-loose fit en- , tlrely suited to their needs. I As Illustrated, the dress is made of raisin-colored serge with the V-shaped chemisette and sleeve trimmings of silk in a matching color overlaid with black soutache. The buttons and the band about the neck cut of the dress are of velvet in the exact shade, though these might also be of silk. If a smarter material Is wanted, brown, green, blue or tiyacinthe cloth would be admirable, in which case the stock and -vest and sleeve trhnmlngs could be of a heavy lace or of passementerie over silk. Again, if Madame chooses, she may cut her cotton frock after the lines of the FIGURE 1 for the Average Woman smaller model, and still appear like a rea sonable and stylish being. A cloth gown made in this design, or a heavy diagonal serge, would he worn far Into the Winter without other wrap than a fur neckpiece and big muff. And since the dress is so limp in effect, the only suitable headgear would be a smart tur ban of rather heavy nature. A hat with Kiiani; v- a wild fly-away brim and feathers would kill the frock entirely. For the medium figure -HVj yards of single width goods would be required for the design. Gigure D. The useful shirtwaist, which much go with street gowns of serviceable nature, and which forms such an im portant detail of home dressing, requires no recommendation, and yet here is a model of such admirable simplicity that It almost deserves a flourish of trumpets. For what woman who has regard for the lines of her back has not bewailed the shirtwaist with fitted rear, and abused it Hints for the Hallowe'en Party TH r.KrJ are no lormuiaieo ruies in the book of etiquette for behavior at Halloween festivities, but It Is the general rule for the guests to display a delighted surprise with all the little oddities gotten up for their amusement. It is also the vogue with girls of in genious tastes to dress in some eccentric fashion on these occasions, or. at least. wear fantastic paper caps, whose ca balistic signs all tell of the night of witches and mystery. The invitations to the gathering, es pecially if it is to be held In a barn, as is often the case, likewise frequently ex press the utmost freakishness, the cards sometimes showing a flight of witches riding on broomsticks, with the written words of the Invitation completely cover ing these. Everything which is odd and spooky is the vogue for Halloween, so if you find your place card at the supper table written on a piece of pasteboard that suggests a tombstone, pray don't be at all surprised. There is no more charming or fitting place to have a Halloween festivity than a big. comfortable out-of-town barn, but failing this, the young folk engaged In getting up the fun should choose the house which has a big parlor or dining room with an adjoining piazza. The car pets and curtains would need 4o be re moved from the room. The furnishings must all be yellow and black, and there must be a closet or corner curtained off for the hiding of the reception commit tee, for each guest must go into the witched den alone. Rut If the funmakers are living In the country, great and unusual amusement may be had, if the night is clear, by mak ing the affair an out-of-door one. A Halloween festivity given one moon light nighfon the shores of Lake Cham- besides, 'if she had to make it. for the difficult adjustment of such styles? The plain French back of this model, and the simply tucked front, offer a degree of be comingness almost universal, for the style is adapted to the needs of both the fat and the lean. Twilled French flannel, or a ' heavy quality of black or colored satin, soft and lustreless finish. is much used for such plain bodices, the color for street wear usually matching that of the gown. With a narrow material 34 yards would be needed for the average figure. Figrue H. A very stylish odd bodice of net over silk, with silk bands and lace stock and cuffs, is here shown. It Is for a miss of 14 or IS, and, with advantage, could form part of a fine gown if thj skirt were of cloth or veiling or cashmere In a color to match the silk. For tho medium figure 2?i yards of tucked net make this dainty garment. MART DMAS. plain was without parallel ' for pictur-esqu-ness. The place chosen was near the clubhouse of the Summer colony where the dancing and the principal games were to be held later on. As the guests arrived, they were . halted In the road by a young man dressed" In a long black cloak and wearing a pasteboard head of a black cat with enormous green eyes. The visitors were blindfolded and led singly by a circuitous route to a for est nook, which was lighted by a huge pumpkin, with a candle behind the eyes and mouth, in the usual way. - Here each guest was taken In hand by three witches, very pretty girls dressed In the full skirt and white kerchief and tall pointed cap the old woman wore when she went to sweep the cobwebs' off the sky, and forced to dance about the "cauldron." a three-legged iron pot set over lighted faggots. With this unholy rite went the famous chant of the three witches in "MacbetH"," which begins: "Double, double, toil and trouble; Fire burn and cauldron bubble." After this the guest was made to salute "Her Majesty," a green-eyed cat picture. After that "His Majesty," the pumpkin, must be kissed, and it was only after this foolishness and the cauldron dance and song, that the blinding handkerchief was taken off and the newcomer allowed to take part in the reception of every other guest. Alt went to the glen with the utmost good humor, and not a few young men discovered when they got there that in order to be considered eligible for fur ther fun they must ride a broomstick around the wood three times '"without cracking a smile." There are a number of entertaining ways of deciding one's fate n this moet auspicious night, une of them is the old- time trick of ranging 12 candles on the floor one for eacli month of the year over which the guest must Jump with a single leap. "Whichever month is blown out by this windy jump' is the one in which you will be married. Again, you may write your name on, a bit of paper and roll It In a ball of wet cornmeal and drop It down the "well," which is a washtub of water with the woodwork concealed by a mass of stones and ferns. If the paper opens out in the water, you will be married sometime, but If the ball remains tight you will remain a bach elor or maid. One very startling feature of a number of Halloween gatherings of late - years has been a rain of red and black paper bats, which at a given signal seem to drop from the very celling around the startled guests. But the whole truth is that the bats are concealed In an enor mous Jack Horner pie, the ribbons at tached to them are fastened to the cloth ing of the guests, presumably without their knowledge, so that when they move out come the great fluttering denizens of the dark. The pie is made in a big washtub and covered with tissue paper, and to make the bats swarm the guests must run away from it after the rib bons have been tied to them.. Of course, the guests know what is going to happen, but it is the thing to look frightened, and if the bat pie is opened all at once, the sight of the red and black things Jerking about is quite startling. To keep up the mystery of the evening, the Halloween party should break up abruptly. When the clock strikes 12 the committee of witches must disappear as if by magic, whereupon all the guests must seize their belongings and run away without a word, never" looking back, lest all the luck of all the next year be lost. Jf there Is a supper, little favors of doll broomsticks can be given to the la dles, and the men can have pen wipers held down by black china cats or red imps. The form of the Invitation will depend entirely upon the fertility,of the imagina tion of the young folk who get up the. fun. Here Is the wording .of one used at the Lake Champlaln function already described: "You are hereby invited to attend the midnight revels of The Three Witches, which will be held in the forest nook of The Seven Maples Blasted by Lightning, on the last night of October. 1W8. "Come at eight o'clock with your newts and toads and sense of humor." PRUDKXt'E STAVniSfT. Dinner Menus for the Week BY LILIAN" TINGLE. Tuesday. Tot Roast With Braised Onions. Potatoes; OliM-y Salad. Jellied Fruit With Cream. Coffee. Wednesday. Cream of Beet Soud. Baked Halibut. Tomato Sauce. Potatoes. Sweet Pppr and Cabbage Salad. Orape Sponge. Coffee. Thursday. Fish Chowder. Broiled Chops. Potatoes. Green Beans. Chicory Salad. Squayh pie. Coffee. Friday. Cream of Potato Soup. Vegetable Curry With Beans. .Rice. Celery Salad. N"w 'hutney. Pear Compote. Spice Cakes. Coffee. Satnrday. Celery Soup. Broiled Hamburger Potatoes. Creamed 'abbaa-e. Apple Salad. Chocolate Pudding-. w Coffee. Sunday. Vegetable Broth Flrelcss Cooker Style. Roast Young Pork. Browned Onions. Brown Potatoes. Apple Sauce. Celery Salad. Grape Sherbet. Cup Cak-as. Coffee. Monday. Vegetable Puree. Old-Fashioned Poiple. Cauliflower With Cream. Lettuce Salad. Apple Tapioca With Cream. 'ew England Capitols. Hartford (Conn.) Times. The New England States have not been extravagant in expenditures for state capltol buildings. Massachusetts has been the most lavish of all. in spending $5,000,000 or $6,000,000 on an extension of the old Bulfinch building-, venerated, as some people think, be yond' its artistic merits. Even now it is too small for the state's business. In Rhode Island the fine, new building re cently erected at Providence Is already proving insufficient, the condition there being much as it is in Connecti cut, where it has been found necessary to provide for the Supreme Court and state library in a building outside the capltol. ' This new structure, fronting the cap ltol on its southern side. Is already well advanced, and is the most important state building now under way in ew England. It will cost over $1,000,000, and will rank with the finer public buildings of the country. laine and New Hampshire are each expending about $350.(fD0 this year in extending their statehonses, which are old build ings that cannot be spoiled by addi tions. 1GIRE C. Beauty Hints for Maiden N)W that schools are in full blast again, and young girls are once more Imbibing indigestion a fatal foe of good looks through lack of ex ercise and sufficient fresh air, beauty's simpler methods of taking care of the complexion should be a subject for every mother's consideration. Fir.inG b. What does a good complexion mean to a girl? It means, at bottom, that all the functions of the system are in per fect working order, and that, in conse quence of this tho particular maiden so equipped is getting a better chance with life than her less blessed sisters. It means that the studies will be eas ier, and the fortunate maid will be kept in better temper than if her face skin harbored the unsightly pimples and sal lowness which are so much the portion of school girls. It means, if the good work is kept up, that the tender cuticle of the youpg face will be without the after signs of youthful blemishes that it will have the right satiny texture and healthful colorings when Its owner Old-FashionedHallowe'enDainties Mt'L.L.ED CIDER AND ROAST AP PLES. This excellent drink and feast is much enhanced if eerved in a great crockery punch bowl. New cider is put on to heat to the boil ing point, and when the scum begins to, form it Is taken off the fire and poured over a pile of baked apples, each of which has been stabbed with a clove and baked with sugar. To six quarts of cider the peel of one mon may be added while It is heating; and when the good stuff is served to the guests tho wise ones will suggest the little yellow kitchen bowls as receptacles, for these permit a whole apple to each person, and a spoon to eat it-with. ... Baked Ham With Cider and Brown Sutrar. Any sort of a ham may be used for this delicious dainty, though South ern ham, cured with apple boughs, is productive of more finesse of taste. As these hams are sometimes extremely hard, they need to be soaked in cold water before cooking. The time neces sary for this is from five to 12 hours, ac cording to the alze or hardness of the ham. The ordinary ham requires no soak ing, and after a good ecrub it may be put on at once in a ham pot with suffi cient boiling water to cover the meat. When the ham is parboiled which should be in two or three hours it is taken off, and at once skinned, brown sugar half an inch thick plastered over this side with a- broad knife. It is then put in a baking pan with a pint of sweet cider and two or three bay leaves and baked imtil tender, care being taken all the while to baste the dainty with the sugared liquid in the pan. If this liquid gives out, more cider and sugar must be put In. for the delicious taste such cook ing gives depends largely upon the con tinuous wetting of the ham while it Is baking. ... Sweetbread L'rotiiet leo For the same number of persons (ten) take five cold, dressed sweetbreads, cut into dice and mix with the same bulk of mushrooms cut in the Bame way. Stir both over the fire in a thick white sauce made of cream and flour and pour the mix ture on a shallow platter. When cold divide Into equal parts , and roll portions of the same f size into round balls or torpedo cones.' Then dip them In egg beaten up with paprika, salt and a little olive oil, and roll them in finely grated bread crumbs. Fry in olive oil till they are crisp and lightly , arrives at tho age when the complexion Is all important. Few mothers seem to be aware that with the coming and passing away of every pimple and blackhead a harden ing or discoloration of the skin is left behind. So, for a girl to hare a good skin when she is grown up, she must take rare of it when she is still a girl. To begin at the beginning of. things, it Is useless to sing the dazzling com plexion when the operations of Nature are left unconsidered. No real or lasting- heautv can he secured for the skin without attention to the normal needs of the body good food, the cleansing bath, exercise and sleep. No hope for any good change may be expected if the intestinal tract, kidneys and skin are hampered In their appointed duties and regularities. As to the first, upon whose utmost regularity the welfare of every other bodily organ may be said to depend, a severe cathartic generally will only bring temporary relief, and so make a bad physical state worse. So, if Instead of dealing out doses of browned, drain them of grease on pieces of white grocer's paper, and serve piping hot on a warm platter garnished with sprigs of fresh parsley. ... Halloween Salad. Cut some carrots, turnips, .parsnips and beets into strips with a scoop and then boil them until tender without breaking the form of tho strips. Strain and chill and ad'! if liked, any other vegetable cooked lnthe same way, string beans, gherkins, etc. ' Put the vegetables, which must be very cold. In a salad dish, sprinkling capers and horse radish generously between the layers, and top these off with a layer of mayonnaise. Shape the salad, while making it. to a point, and ornament the edge of the dish with meat Jelly or pickled shrimps or olives. ... Chestnut Salad Shell two quaVts of French chestnuts, throwing away all that are defective, and put the kernels over the fire in enough boiling water barely to cover them. Cook them until the skins slip off, as with blanched almonds. Take them from the water, and as soon as they are cool enough to handle remove the skins. Then ar range the peeled chestnule on a bed of tender white lettuce fringed with strips of endive. Pour over a French dress ing and serve with strips of crisp toast made from white bread. . .C'hU-ken Consomme For a company of ten persons, take four old fowls, skin them and remove all superflous fat. Disjoint- the birds and let them stand in cold water for 20 minutes; then put them on the fire in eight quarts of perfectly fresh cold water, with three leeks and a good-sized bunch of fine herbs. Let the broth simmer slowly for eight hours, or until it is reduced to four quarts, and dur ing the cooking skim carefully. When the chic-ken has been cooked to rags, take the vessel from the fire, lift out the solids and let the liquid be come thoroughly cold. Skim off the superflous grease then, and gently re heat and strain twice through cheese cloth or a fine strainer. During the second heating the whites and shells of three eggs may be put In the broth for clarifying: but the soup is again strained and kept in a cold place until used. When heating It for the break fast do It gradually, and sprinkle the broth of each cup with a little finely chopped fresh psrsley. Chicken consomme to he s-ood shoi-'J have a clear golden color. Complexions castor oil and pills so generously to their young daughters when bad skins and headaches and backaches hint what is the matter, anxious mothers should look mainly to a simple and healthful diet and other natural means of mas tering the trouble. A larger supply " of fresh fruit, pure drinking water, and simpler viands than those usually enten will do much to correct tills serious trouble. And besides seeing that these are supplied and taken, the mother should insist that the young daughter take several hours of exercise daily in the open air. A good way to make the fruit tempt ing is to have a bowl filled with great Juicy oranges, red-cheeked apples, grapes, etc.. In the girl's room, so that she can eat the good things upon wak ing, and so prepare her Internal econ omy for all that Is to come. The Juice of sweet oranges has a won derful effect on the clearness of the skin and the brightness of the eyes, and know, ing this, many famous beauties have made them the chief article of their diet all their lives. Honey is also beneficial, while it is claimed that molasses the good, old-fashioned, thick kind eaten for supper every night jRith brown or gluten bread will bring a throat and cheek aa firm and glistening as marble. The health rules call fur from two to four glasses each time, with a quarter of an hour spent slowly sipping it. The thing is not difficult to do, and after you ac quire the habit of your splendid drink you wonder how you could have been so "un tidy" as not to think of washing out your stomach before. For the water drinking does just this thing, and after a month of it every part of the body shows the good results of the internal scrubbing there is a lighter head, a clearer eye, a brisker step, more wisdom, a better complexion. Every girl should be taught, too. that to sleep in a bedroom improperly ventilat ed is to do something as unclean as it is unhealthful. for surely It Is a repugnant thought, that of rebrcathlng the poisonous emanations thrown off during sleep by the skin and lungs. If there is only one window in the sleep ing room this should be kept open at least several Inches on the coldest night soma doctors declare wide openand the ilonr be open to promote a draft from a win dow elsewhere. The bed need not be in the draft., but the good, fresh, ever changing, outside air is necessary not only for the health of a girl's body and mind, but for the roses and lilies o her check. Tell the girl, too, to breathe deeply and evenly when she can remember it. for' this loosens up all the stiffening clock work within, promoting more healthful sleep, a better digestion, and all the many facial and bodily signs of Beauty's favor. Pimples are one of the blights of adtil esence, hut they are likewise frequently caused by the voung person's predilection for fresh hot breads, by eating too fast, by thinking of studies while eating, and by doing or allowing to go on unchecked ail the other beauty destroying things al ready mentioned. The cure of pimples, then, depends, first of all, upon a more sensible regime of living, ahd after that some little lotion or salve may be used for temporary relief. The. following ointment is recommended for the simpler pimple' from which young, girls suffer: Salicylic acid .' SO grammes Pure lard or white vaseline 50 grammes The substances are thoroughly blended by stirring or beating, and the ointment is rubbed into the skin like any cream. Blackheads that are especially obstinate need sometimes to be removed with a watch key, but before this is done the face must be steamed in order to relax the pores. Next, grease the ugly little spots well with vaseline and press down the key with the opening directly over the "head." It would be safe to sterilize It first in boric acid and boiling water. Of course, care must be taken not to bruise the spot too much. The soaps provided for a young girl's use should be of the puret nature, and Hh for powders and complexion creams, tin less they are of Infantine simplicity, ihey are entirely out of place. It is not thought good taste for a young girl to use any powder more sophisticated than talcum or prepared chalk, and even a violble dust of these is not quite tho thing. Preparations of glycerine and rosH water one part of the first to four or five of the other are also more Innocent In their effects on young skins than a fancy cream, but If this seems unkindly to the skin very excellent cold creams can be made of pure lard. Wash thle in many distilled waters until the lard has a cot tony spongy look, as If filled with oxy gen, and then scent It with a few drops of perfume. KATHBR1NW MORTON. OF INTEREST TO WOMEN If I could show you how to make yourself more attractive at very little expenditure of time and money, would you he interested T "Women properly give much time and thought to dress and to the improvement of their complexion, hands, arms and body, but are often thoughtless regarding the one element of beauty that can he easily and quickly improved and that is woman's crowning glory, her hair. Nothing com mands greater admiration than a wealth of lustrous, beautiful hair. If you desire to improve your hair, or if you want to perma nently retain the present beauty of your hair, send a postal to-day for a little book, free, published by the great Paris Parfumeur, ED. PINATJD, which tells much about hair culture and contains many beauty hints of great value to refined women. Ask for ED. PINATJD'S Beauty Book No. 26 an ""rite to-day to ED. PINAUD'S American Offices ED. PINAUO BLOG., NEW YORK Covets a fresh, smooth, satiny complex- Ion, and what satisfaction and peace of mind its possession brings. The lines of age, worry and overwork are render ed well nigh powerless by Mrs. Nettie HARRISON'S LOLA M0NTEZ CREME A wonderful soother, healer and protec tor to a dry, contracted or chapped skin. , It is Complexion Insurance. Convince yourself of its remarkable Dower by obtaining a free samole and Book "SECRET OF BEAUTT AND GOOD HEALTH" at THK SKIDMDRK 1H( fi CU, 131 Third St., fort land. EVERY WOMAN
