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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 24, 1909)
: 4 TTTE SCTMDAY OKKCtOTVTAA, rUKILAilJ, OCTOBKK 4, 1909. rr------r , YOSEMITE MATCHLESS : Erv - V-" t", ly.y V. Tr"t 7 A;, turn :.'',' Z V ' . r T,.v -lf BT R. I.. fiLISAN. 7w BOUT ten years ago I entered MTosemite Valley, going in by one tnage . route and taking another coin ' out. I spent two weeks in the ' valley, and before leaving: had climbed up the traila to Glacier roint.- Kugle ; PeakJ Clouds Rest, and liad tramped along the Pohono trail onhe south rim of the valley by Inepiration Point.' and on the way out had shopped at Wawona and visited the Mariposa grove of giant Sfeauoiaa. Xot content with one visit I wient again a year agj in Vay. taking the train to M Portal and staging. 14 miles into the valley. The railroad had been completed the year, before and It was the second seanon of keeping the valley open the year round, the 'Winter snow making the ! former stage routes hitherto Impassable, Most of th trails were blocked with ; mow., and the waterfaJla were in full ' volume. One evening I saw Tosenilte .Falls absorbing .the luster of the full moonlight, part of the valley being in the light and part in the shadow. I climbed Glacier Point trail Just after a mow storm, the branches of the trees along the rim loaded to breaking with the weight of snow, and before leaving , took the -stage again to Wawona and '.viewed the big trees in the falling snow I felt I had seen the Yosemite in Its varying moods, under most favorable conditions, and yet I was not content My curiosity was aroused as to the. region lying beyond the valley. The very name of the high Sierras was alluring. and I longed to quit the beaten paths fanvllar to every tourist and penetrate the vast beyond. Sierra acquaintances I had met on our own snow peaks in Ore gon and Washington had often referred to the northern portion of the park; it required little deliberation, therefore, to end in an application to join the Sierra Club on last Summer's outing when I read In the prospectus it planned to put in the month of July in sight-seeing in the Tosemhe National Park. I' I was an opportunity not to be reglertedf I went anticipating an ideal trip, but nv ideal was not high enough. What I mw surpassed all expectation. I came imv convinced of one idea, and that, in brief, the priceless asset the KWlcral Government holds in trust for our sister state, for us. and for all Nations. Ameri cans have poured unlimited wealth into Europe because keenly alert foreigners, have catered - to visitors, creating the feeling that you must go abroad to broaden your views, while the West with it wealth of scenery Is largely Ignored. It la far easier to take the trip in the Toscmite National Park than to de cribe tt. month of constantly shifting scenerv. a month of solid sunshine with out a.threatening cloud, every day worthy of the limited space allotted to the entire nuiin. You waste all your superlatives on the first day. and are bankrupt for the balance. We gathered at 12 Porta! July 3, coming in from all parts of the compass, of the Appalachian Club crossing the continent rn response to the "call of the mH." El Portal the pnrtat of the viiley. th scenery-Is Just elnninato j Hi look' interesting. From there the road follows up the turbulent Merced River, the canyon walls gradually deepening until the floor of the valley is reached. Here the river, as though awed by its surroundings, or loath to leave them, flows placidly over the floor of the valloy seven mile in length. The Sierra camp was at tne further end of the valley acroeu the river, a mile 'beyond the Sen tinel Hotel, in the pines which have grown yince Professor John Muir flrst visited the valley 4 years aso. Before that the Indians had kept the floor swept clean . fire for hunting and easy traveling. Two hundred answered the call that evening for dinner, and standing in double line, received the portions allotted to them from the serving table, and. gather ing In small groups, leisurely discussed the meal and the proposed itinerary, and atarted ' mutual acquaintanceship. We were a small invading army, and handled with military discipline. Seven hundred pounds of provisions disappeared each day, and the task of having the proper supply at the proper place was no easy one, considering the dally inarch over trails which, from the incessant drop and uplift, taxed the strength of the pacta ani mals, and the shifting pack the patience of the packers. So perfectly was every detail handled that every meal was satis fying and on time, and our dunnage bags on hand when we needed them. Several days were spent in the valley, or rather taking trails to vantage points above the valley, camp being deserted by day and the campnre drawing us together at night. We took the trail up by Yosemite Falls, the water pouring over the cliff 1900 feet above, overpowering in Its height, yet later' from agle Peak Insignificant look ing a white ribbon below. v m the night of July a huge fire was built on Glacier Point, and the Are brands dropping silently SOfO feet, made a spec tacular demonstration. The following morning, from my sleeping bag, I could see Glacier Point gradually brought into sharp relief by the rising sun, the latter stimulating responsive energy. leaving the valley on July S. we took the trail to the Little Yosemite. by Vernal and Ne vada Falls. The few who .rode took the trail above Vernal, while the others en tered the driving rainbow mist and fol lowed the wet trail up the granite wall over which Vernal dropped In solid vol ume. We lunched above Nevada Falls, spending an hour on the brink, watching the skyrocket leaps of feathery foam from solid mass of white driving over the worn rim, apd almost drawing yon down with it to the shifting rainbows in the basin level far below. That night we camped in the"IJttle Yo semite a few miles above the falls. The following day we continued our grand cir cuit of the park, being- tempted to take the side trail to Clouds Rest for a parting and comprehensive view of Yosemite Val ley, and from Its 10.000-foot elevation se curing a faint suggestion of the uplifted region towards the north. Coming down and bearing across, we struck the Sunrise trail, and, following It a short distance, took) the trail over the divide down to : Keho Creek, where we spent the night. The campnre was built in a rocky amphi theater, and the fire light on the faces of the sypsy4toklng- group, with the tall, tj.iijShH TCoi.vrfjv: rt&k&ovi'. Sstr iiim i imi g - n : , - f Uo , . 4. - . v - t ,:,'. . V . . " JV"1!! - - ' ' "V 1 J . -fa strongly marked yellow pine outlined on the edge of the gloom, was peculiarly im pressive. The next da- we passed Merced Iake, a glacier scooped hollow, and made easy camp in the pines at McClure Fork. The next day we. went up past Lake Wash burn, another charming water color, beau tifully framed, having to pick our way with extreme caution over glaciated rock, where a slip on the polished slope meant a slide and drop Into the river below with doubtful consequences. Beyond the lake ju lunched at a cool soda springs, by cas cades and falls, and. continuing, entered an amphitheater where, several streams pour over the cliffs above. Another day equally attractive, and the day following we took the trail up McClure Fork, up, up. until Merced Lake was a mere dot be low. Crossing the McClure amphitheater, we zigzagged our way to Vogelsang Pass, the scenery lifting behind to tempt us to re main. We crossed the pass at 11.500-foot elevation on snow fields, and mapped our course beyond, bewildered by the multi plicity of peaks, passing Vogelsang Lake, a miniature suggestive of the Frozen North, with dabs of .deep blue water showing between brbken Ice sheets, reach ing out from encircling snow banks. Two Spirit of Hallo ween May Be Carried Nuts and Apples Form Basis of Menu That Maintains Traditions PORTLAND. Or.. Oct. 20. Will you kind ly give list of suitable refreshments for Hallowe'en: also recipe- for -cake of the dead?" Thanking you in advance. Mrs. E. H. 8. HALLOWE'EN" refreshments are usually informal in character and planned on what might be de scribed as a "nut and apple basis." Nnjs and apples are both at their best jus't now, and are traditionally as sociated with Hallowe'en and its weird charms and? ceremopies. Apples, raw or baked: apple turnovers; apple salad in red apple shells cut tq represent Jack o' lanterns; cider, apple water, or apple sherbet, all suggest themselves for selec tion according to taste and circumstances. Nuts "au naturel" are absolutely neces sary. Is not this . "Nut Crack Night?" And how can the future be foretold without them? If more sophisticated re freshments are desired, nut cakes or cookies or sandwiches might be- served. Roast chestnuts are of course "very cor rect." Many of the old charms Involve the use of cabbage, honey, oats and wheat. Therefore cabbage salad, honey cakes or sandwiches, oat cakes or cookies might pass. In some places "fermity" or "fru menty" is considered proper for this sea son. I do not fcnow how it would appeal to "young America." but It was the de light of iy own childhood. Moreover it traces Its descent, as the name shows, back to the Roman occupation of Britain, and as traditions show, far into the twi light beyond. To make It, take new, clean, whole wheat and cook slowly In water (bee)., iu a crock In the oven or IN ITS 'BEAUTY streams on the divide flawed parallel in opposite directions. Going down RafTerty Creek, we entered Tuolumne Meadows, and late afternoon brought ns to our camp on the bank of the Tuolumne. Here, at an elevation of SS00 feet, we spent a week of pleasant memory. A day in the meadows, with a view from Lam bert Dome; a night on the timbered slope of Dana, and a climb the next day to the summit over 13.000 feet, where we could lookout over Mono Lake and the desert in the shimmering haze, and look down on the craters and highly colored rocks. Turning, one could sweep down the line of the high Sierras, where every peak was at least a peer to where we stood, or, turning further, look down on the mead ows and see beyond the tracings of the mysterious. Toulumne Canyon. A trip to Cathedral Pass, beautiful Cathedral I,ake below, and Tenaya Lake still further down these and other trips, interspersed with frequent visits to the sparkling, ef fervescent soila springs, made the week slip by all too rapidly. The soda springs are larite. with a steady (low. and ere long will quench the thirst of many a pilgrim. "With lemon and sugar added, the water makes a drink compared to which the nectar of the gods would taste fiat. Leaving the meadows, we went one day's march down the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne to Conness Creek, near Wildcat Peak, where the main party left the Canyon and encircled the northern rim, while the knapsackei s. under experi enced guidance, with blankets and provi sions oji our backs, plunged down into the canyon, dropping a mile below the rim of the earth, taking four days to go 12 miles. Slipping down through man zanita brush defying our return, climbing over huge boulders, brushing past white azaleas fringing the water's edge, climb ing to ledges above or over a ridge where the water rushing between precipitous walls barred our progress along the river, the roar of water constantly in our ears as the river plunged in cascades a nT wa terfalls of endless variety and beauty, we finally came out in Pate Valley, the can yon walls widening for the first time. At Pate Valley we took a day's breath, wandered over bear trails, through undergrowth among live oak and pine and examined the queer Indian paintings on the glacial rubbed walls, and then climbed up Piute qreek to the trail above, meeting the main party near Table Lake in Pleasant Val ley. The following day we took the trail over Rancherla Mountain, where not far to one side we could look down into Pate Valley; camped on Rancheria Mountain one night, and the next morn ing descended into Hetch-Hetchy Val ley, where we stayed for several days, In the flreless cooker) until the wheat is thoroughly soft, puffed up and cracked. Heat 'the cooked wheat grains in milk, thicken slightly with a little butter and flour, sweeten with honey and flavor to taste with cinnamon, alspice and nutmeg. Serve hot In small bowls, from a punch bowl and pass cream to cool the mixture. There is a way of foretelling the future by pouring cream into "frumenty" but that is too complicated an art to de scribe here. Clotted cream or junket and "dough cakes" with honey are also correct. The dough cakes are to be baked on a grid dle and served hot. Douchiuits are a degenerate but popular substitute which lack the fortune-telling powers of the original fiat bread cakes. English muffins would do. if available. .Fruit cake with hidden symbols (ring, coin, bean, etc.) properly belongs to "Twelfth Night" but is sometimes used for Hallowe'en. So are pancakes, though Shrove Tuesday is the proper time for these. They must - be made in a frying pan, very thin. Bach eater must turn his or her own cake by tossing the pan. Ifthe cake falls on the floor you will not be married this year. If it comes down fair and square in Jhe pan you will get a good husband some time. If it falls unevenly, a' poor one; if over the side, he will beat you. For husband read wife, if the cook is mascu line the signs are the same, Including the beating. She will also have "an un bridled tongue," so be careful how you toss. Besides cider, other suitable drinks would be elder wine or hot fruit punch with crabapples In It. nnd spice. Fortune telling can be done with this also. I II III making side trips to Lakes Eleanor, Vernon and Little Hetch-Hetchy. We camped at the base of Kolona Rock, a granite spire rising several thousand feet above the valley floor, and nearly opposite Wapnna Falls, a fitting rival of the Yosemite. The valley, though not so large as the Yosemite, is won derfully attractive. suggesting peace and quiet majesty with its flower dotted carpet, the meandering river, the huge oaks, cedar and pine, and the granite walls narrower than the Yo semite and even more Impressive. Leaving the valley, we stopped over night at Sequoia, took the road through the Merced big ' tre.es and the cut-off trail down to EI Portal, our starting point, having made a loop close to the outer limits of Yosemite Park. J have roiighly outlined the trip to show how our time was apportioned, how every day we had new and chang ing scenery, and without contradic tion it is a trip not to be duplicated elsewhere on earth. We are justly proud ill Oregon of our snow moun tains, but 10 days at timberline Is about all the Mazamas can hold their party, and once - down yois, turn homeward, having no other peak to tempt you up again. No one mountain or valley Putin Many Ways of Popular October Festival. In regard to the "cake of the dead" you ask for, I am not sure whether you mean the "silence cake," kneaded with the left thumb, or the cake used In North ern England at this season often called "soulmass cake" or "thaaf cake." I have a very, very old recipe for the latter which runs as follows: "Take fine oat meal, one pound: dark syrup or honey, one pound; dark sugar, one-quarter pound: fine wheat flour, six ounces: home rendered lard, half a pound: ground gin ger, two teaspoons; one egg from a black' hen and leaven (in practice two tea spoons baking powder.) A good imitation might be made by using your favorite gingerbread recipe, substituting honey for molasses. If you want to be very "back to date" and using oatmeal in place of some of the flour. If you use honey in place of molasses you will of course have to modify your recipe m regard to soda. But plain' hot gingerbread or mo lasses cookies would probably do just as well or better than the original "cake of the dead" for very much alive young people. Butterscotch, with or without nuts, is an English tradition for Hallowe'en. It is not pulled like taffy. Fortunes may be told by the shape the crisp candy takes when dropped Into cups of cold water. I hope some of these suggestions may prove useful. Centralis, Wash., Oct. 19. Will you kindly give recipe for hot chicken tarns les, and oblige. MRS. E. L. B. I have no personal experience with the following recipes, but they were given to me some time ago with the assertion that they were "fine and dandy": Mexican Tamales No. 1. Simmer a fowl Plea Is Made for Preservation of Hetch-Hetchy, Key- to Great Wonderland. oxrrw. Is quite enough to draw visitors from a distance. Yosemite, as everyone knows, is Nature's masterpiece, but 10 days thereis all-sufficient. It is in itself not enough to draw: the increasing army of nature-lovers. The combined Yo semite, Tuolumme. Hetch-Hetchy trip, however, so crudely sketched above, even now If better known would draw sight seers the wiW over. and. under Govern ment control, with more attention to the trails, would be natronized by thousands instead of a scattering few. In Tuolumne and Hetch-Hetchy, thousands could easily be accommodated, hotels could be built as in the Yellowstone, and Instead of dusty roads through monotonous scenery, one could spend a month of perfect bliss over roads and broad, clean trails among the high Sierras, and enjoy the sensation of having done something above the pro saic monotony of the ordinary routes something to be proud of, to treasure and recall for life. Turn Hetch-Hetohy into a reservoir and vou destroy the keystone, the main fea ture of the park, especially as that would tend to draw with it the Tuolumne Mead ow and canyon, and thus bar thousands who will crave to enter from crossing over the watershed. Hetch-Hetchy. a reservoir, and the camp site Is destroyed. until tender; season with salt while cook ing. While hot remove bones and skin and chop the meat very small, adding a little finely-minced garlic, with cayenne or Spanish pepper to make the mixture as hot as desired. Have ready a thick paate made of one cup of cornmeal thor oughly cooked in boiling water. Shape the minced moat into thin rolls about three inches long and inclose each In the paste. Have ready also the inner husks of corn, about six inches long after the ends are trimmed off. well washed in boiling water. Wrap each tamale in a cornhusk. tying the ends firmly. Add two or three Mexican peppers to the liquor in which the chicken was boiled and cook the tamales in it about 20 min utes. Mexican Tamales No. 2. Simmer a fowl until tender. Remove the flesh from the bones and mince one-half pound seeded raisins, half a cup etoned olives and one young red pepper. Season to taste with garlii and salt and cayenne. Add a dash of lenjon juice if liked. St- into a paste two cups of coriuncal with scalding water, add one teaspoon sugar and one or two teaspoons onion juice. Cook to a stiff mush in double boiler, adding more boiling water as needed. Then add six finely-chopped hard-boiled eggs and salt to taste. Have ready inner corn husks, washed, and scalded. I.ay upon two husks as much of-he mixture as they will contain and tie in neat rolls with strips of husk. Cook one hour in boiling chicken broth. Portland. Or.. Oct. 18. Kindly give recipe for rolled wafers to be served with sherbet or chocolate, explaining just how you roll them. MRS. E. B. Rolled Wafers. One-fourth cup butter, one-half cup powdered sugar, one-fourth cup milk, seven-eighths cup 'bread flour, one-half teaspoon vanilla, a few drops pink coloring. If liked. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually and the milk, drop by drop. Then add flour and flavor ing. Spread very thinly with a bread knife or spatula on inverted baking pan. A. It is impossible without prohibitive cost, to blast a roadway in those solid walla above the proposed water line. The best one coild do would be to approach ona end. and view a body of water whose banks shifted as the seasons moved. Southern C'allfeirnla cities arc profiting enormously from tourist travel. It is not the dream of a theorist: it i.s hard, com mon sense. The Yosemite is a valuable asset, the Yosemite National I'nrk u far greater, simply incalculable. It is a K'ld mine for the Slate of California, a treas ure for the I'nlon. We are all interested, and have the right to call a halt when an unnecessary- encroachment is threat ened, and prevent the precedent of a city breaking into our all too limited Govern ment parks and reservations when they can go elsewhere. San Francisco must live an adequate and suitable water supply, but other sources are available, unlimited water a good, as accessible, and some of them less in cost. Any reasonable Investiga tion will show thLs. A dozen sources have been mentioned. Why then destroy th main feature of our National park, create, a dangerous precedent, and force our citi zens to seek cheap substitutes abroad, in stead of making the most of the scenio marvels at home? Crease with knife in threo-inch square and bake in slow oven until delicately brown. Cut in squares with a sharp knife, keeping the tin warm on stove or oven top, and roll up the squares neatly, beginning with the Inside edge (which rolls more closely than the crispcr outer edge) and rolling so as to leave ttv! smooth upper surface outside. If rolled, cornucopia shape they may be filled witii whipped cream. DEATH DUTIES EXCESSIVE French lOcoiioinisI Sound-. Note of Warning to KnslMi. PARIS. Oct. 20. (Special.! M. Paul Le-roy-Beaullei. the distinguished economist, contributes to the Figaro an elaborate ac count of his views on the British Finaii.-e Bill, which he tegards essentially fVicial istic and inimical to the rights of prop erty, lie maintains that there has he'ii a kind of rivalry between the British ami the French governments in the develop ment of the death duties. As an example of the way in which death duties may be developed until they assume the aspect of confiscation. M. l-e-roy-Beaulieu points out how these duties ill France have gradually been increased, both with regard to the amount of the ottate and the legatee's degree of kinship to the testator. He refers to the new proposals of the present French Finance Minister, M. Co chery, who. although he is accounted a moderate man. is credited with the inten tion of increasing the maximum duty to 32.5 per cent when the proposed scheme of workmen's pensions comes Into force. The exterlnf wr!I of the new Pennsyl vania terminal station In S'c-w York dtv sre nearly h'f mile long and contain 400,000 cubic ft of granite.
