T THE SUNDAY OfcEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 10, 1909. . DAINTY SUMMER FROCKS GIVE WAY TO HEAVY FALL AND WINTER WEAR Elaborate Trimming of Taney Braids Characterizes Stylish Suits Displayed in Portland Stores. . r - i i TTiiiiiii t i i i i ------- j ' ' NOW that the "between-season-" period la about over, and the genuine, le gitimate Autumn la upon us. the anmewhat freakish "advance" Fall styles are giving place to the real and endur ing fashions in gowns and millinery for the season of wind, rain, and auch meed of cold weather as answers for Wintry temperatures in the mild Northwest. The displays now being made in all the up-to-date local shops are of the real Fall and "Winter styles, and we are reminded, by the occasional business-like down-pours of tb past fortnight, that "Indian Bum mer" will soon be gone, leaving us no al ternative but to store away even the heaviest linens of our Summer wardrobe, along with the sheer and dainty lingerie frocks that were laid away some weeka ago. One thing which should rejoice the heart of the woman of the Northwest in the new showings, is the prevalence in the displays of that queerly named, but ever practical and convenient combina tion of complete gown and coat to match, the "three-piece suit." While there are only two pieces, by literal count. In the "three-piece suit." the name is probably justified by the triple service of the com bination, since the under frock is skirt and bodice In one. and may be worn without the coat when the latter is not required for warmth. This latter fact makes the three-piece suit especially convenient here In the Northwest, where many of our Winter days are so mild as to make the wearing of a heavy coat cumbersome and uncomfortable, unless one wears underneath it only a thin waist of lace or Summer fabric, quite out of the .question for Winter out-of-door wear without the additional coat The pretty and graceful princess lines are. for the most part, retained In the frock of the three-piece suit. Many of the models on display show the gown to be simply the tight-fitting jersey" bodice with the skirt of wide flat plaits joined to the bodice just below the hip-line, made of the same material and trimmed to match the close-fitting coat to be worn over It. All the suits are elaborately trimmed, with rat-tail or other fancy braids, the trimming being particularly in evidence about the yoke, neck and sleeves and In the finishing of edges.. The extent to which fancy silk braid will be used In trimming the new two piece and three-piece suits, is suggested by the wine-red model shown in sketch No. 1 and the smart princess effect In dark blue tones sketched In No. 2. Both of these suits are heavily trimmed, at all possible points, by fancy silk braids, which are most effectively used in em phasizing the long artistic lines of the new styles, with their close-fitting curves and sweeping continuations. The wine red model Is of fine serge, with the silk trimming in the exact tone; a dressy and relieving touch is given about the bust and neck by a finely tucked gimp of dainty cream net and appliqued lace, with pipings and tie of wine-red silk. In the blue model, a gimp and high col lar of sheer blue net over cream-toned satin Is used to finish the neck of the princess frock. A charming little costume In smoke gray bengaline was sketched by The Ore gonlan's artist .from the display of a local house which makes a specialty of smart gowns. This model Is shown in No. 3, with back and front -of the coat shown separately. The "apron front" is used In joining the bodice of the princess frock to the gimp, which Is of gray net over satin, and a silk sash tie In dainty gray, with fringed ends. Is brought down from the gimp and passed through the front of the bodice, the fringed ends hanging from the bust. In this frock, rat-tail braid is used on the plaited skirt to make a trimming completely around It about the height of the knee, and the same braid is lavishly used on the trim ming of the coat, as shown in the sketch. Another charming, three-piece costume Is that shown In No. 4. This is of a copper-toned novelty cloth with Jet but tons, the buttons bejng used. In this case, in lieu of braid, for trimming.. The prin cess frock opens down the side, and the back Is fitted closely. The sleeves are formed of horizontieally-Iald plaits, and panels of the horizontal plaiting are vis ible between the side seams and the front panel edged with the jet buttons, as shown In the sketch. No. 5 shows a natty suit, trimmed elab orately with oriental braid. The suit is of blue broadcloth, with braid and but tons In black, and a broad mock girdle of black satin, showing at the sides. Black satin s also used as a piping at the edges, and on the pockets, cuffs and collar. McClellan Sidesteps "Grouch Day" Scheme Culver Objects to Patriotism on His Mountain Actress ' Press Agent Yarn Makes Rivals Envious Standard Crowd to Found Banks in South America Turkish Baths Have Hard Times. FT T.T.OT F. liONERGAN. NEW YORK. Oct. 9. (Special.) Now that the Hudson-Fulton cele bration has passed Into history, Gothamltes are beginning to take a lan guid interest in politics, but are really much more excited over "grouch day." Cincinnati has set the style, and New York Is not too proud to follow. Juayor Gaivln. of the Ohio metropolis, has an nounced that on a certain date every man. woman and child in his town Is In vited to appear at the City Hall and de clare his or her grievance. When Mayor McClellan was approached and told of the decision of the Western ruler, he declared that it was a good Idea and that he was perfectly willing to carry It out here. But he has not fixed a date, and the betting is' that be will try to forget the whole subject. A man who has studied the situation carefully says that, if all the city grouches" assembled at the City Hall, the Una would be one week In passing a. given point. Which may be somewhat overdrawn, but fairly expresses the situa tion. For McClellan Is going out of office so thoroughly unpopular that even the or ganisation that nominated him did not dare to say a word In his favor when the Tammany City Convention met tho other day. Culvert's) Vnpatrlotic Grievance. An aftermath -of the big celebration comes In the shape of a wail from Charles Bellamy t Culver, who claims to own the entire top of Hook Mountain. This was one of ' the high points that were ornamented with bonfires to cele brate the remarkahle feat of Fulton and Hudson. Mr. Culver complains that, although be has not given permission 1? anybody, official marched onhls proper ty, used his trees for fuel, and hi a word, put his private property to the bad. He wants to know what he can' do about it. The answer is that the best thing for him-to do is to keep quiet, and not In cur a reputation for a lack of patriotism. For, as the average citizen will point out., were it not for the patriotic bonfires, nobody, especially the friends of Charles Bellamy Culver, would ever know that he owned a part of Hook Mountain, and the advertisement is certainly worth a little firewood. Latest Press Agent Varn. Speaking of advertisements. Clarice Vance, the vaudeville artist, has certain ly Bprnng something new, although she says that her story Is strictly on the level. She returned from Europe the other day. and with her husband started cptown in a taxlcab. They had not pro ceeded very far. when another auto drew up alongside. In this vehicle was a man who Introduced himself as a customs Inspector, sent from the steamship pier to Inquire about some Jewels which Miss Vance had neglected to declare. The woman tearfully protested that she had paid duty on the gems, but the official was so politely insistent that she finally turned them over to him with a promise that, if she were in the right, they would be promptly returned. Of course, she has not seen them since, and she says that she is out the tidy little sum of J2000. All the other press agents In town are Jealous, for. If this is a publicity story. It is certainly a new one, and good for space in any metropolitan journal. Three actress are already known to have dis charged the young men wno look after their public lives, and the end Is not yet. That the Standard Oil trust Is reach ing out beyond the limits of the United States is indicated by the announcement that the National City Bank, recognized as the Rockefeller financial Institution, is planning to. organize a state bank or trust company in South America. An In vestigation of the field, undertaken soma months ago, is said to hav confirmed the opinion of the movers in the plan that a favorable opportunity exists for the establishment of a large bank with branches in other countries in Latin America, where English and German banking institutions have long been in operation, and where governmental con ditions are no longer unstable. The National City Bank interests have for years had a controlling voice in the Bank of 'Havana, and within the last year or so the former Institution has come in close touch with some of the chief South American countries, among them being the Argentine Republic, in the placing of the, bonds of Which it has participated, and Brazil, where It has played a leading part in floating the coffee equalization bonds. . Building; for School of Art. That we are taking an interest in music is demonstrated toy the fact that J225.000 will be expended for a building for the Institute of Musical Art of the City of New York. This institution is an ad vanced school of music, which was es tablished and endowed in 3906 by James Loeb In the memory of his .mother, he supplying $500,000 for that purpose. Loeb. by the way, is another of our unknown millionaires.. The Income from this endowment and1 the subscriptions of friends, now amounts to more than $30,000 per annum. Police Magistrate Herbert has rendered a decision which is unique In character, because It furnishes a precedent against swearing over the telephone. The only former ruling was supplied by a judge out West, who stated that a man could eay anything he pleased over his phone, ao long as he paid the rent regularly. But Magistrate Herbert fined Andrew Dubois for using insulting language over the wire to the woman operator of a moving-picture show. In his decision the Court said: "If a man met a woman In the street, and cursed her, he would probably be beaten by Indignant "bystanders. He cer tainly would be punished if arrested and arraigned in court. A plea that so long as he takes the cowardly course of talk ing at a distance, he is immune from -punishment, is puerile and absurd. This man disturbed the peace and acted in a disorderly manner, despite the fact that nobody except his victim heard hlra. But even that fact is not proved to my satis faction. For who can tell that the tele phone girl was not listening, and heard much to the detriment of the plaintiff?" Suffragettes to Talk Three Days. The women suffragists are planning to have a record-breaking convention be ginning on October 20. The present in tention Is to hold a three-days' session, although they are willing to stretch out the time if the occasion warrants it. This affair will be held in the new state headquarters, which occupy Impressive apartments In a Fifth avenue ogftce build ing. The arrangements and decorations of these rooms have the feminine touch, but there is solidity and official tone in everything, even the (finely appointed li brary. To quote one visitor, "everything seems to say, we are not here for amusement." Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, who has cer tainly infused ginger into the suffragist movement, will be a prominent figure in the affair. She has contributed liberally to the cause, but the work she has done in interesting society in the matter is really much more valuable than the money which she has spent so lavishly. Woman Worth $1000 a pound. Miss Loretta Lowstetter has aroused the interest of the local legal fraternity by a suit in which she values herself at $1000 a pound. Miss Lowstetter is a former resident of this city, but now lives in Pittsburg. She claims that one Professor Reed jilted her, and that she suffered such humiliation that she lost 25 pounds in weight. So she sues for $25,000, which is at the rate of $1000 a pound. . As these are the days when all women are anxious to be thin, it is hard for the average man to realize why a woman should object to even what might, be called a "Cupid banting." The general impression Is that Miss Lowstetter has made a very bad plea, and that an ungal-. lant Jury Is more than likely to decide that she has really benefited by 'being rudely rebuffed by the man to whom she was willing to dedicate her young life. If the average "New York girl could lose 25 pounds by the simple method of losing her sweetheart, fully 20 per cent of the engagements that now exist would be roken without ceremony. , Probablv net one New York man in a thousand 'knew why Wall street was so named until tho Society of Colonial Wars came along the other day and unveiled a bronze tablet. Dr. Thomas Darlington spoke of the significance of the place which the so ciety had determined to mark. He said that under the cornerstone of what is now the Bank of New - York was the foundstion of the bastion which marked the "city wall," the northernmost boun dary of the city in Its infancy. Here Is the legend on the tablet: "Hers stood the bastion of the wall which between 1653 and 1699 extended from the East River along the line of the present Wall street, and thence westerly to the North, or Hudson's River." Hard Times for Turkish Baths. Willie New York's hotels, restaurants and barber shops steadily increase with the growth of population, it is an inter-, estlng fact that another luxury has not increased in proportion. For the Turkish baths have fallen on evil days, and their proprietors are very pessimistic regard ing tha future of their industry. One of the old-time managers says that, while New York is richer than it was- 10 years ago. the patronage of the baths has fallen off fully 20 per cent. Various reasons have combined to cause this slump. For one thing, there are now many more private baths than there ever wens before. The clubs are now generally provided with them, and even the modest athletic resorts have some kind of a steam bath that satisfies their members. The great interest In sea bathing and the nearness of the beaches Is also given as a reason for the decline in the Turkish industry. The real profit today is said to bo in the women's baths, which, because of the lack of club facilities, have not fallen off. The money earned in these, how ever, comes more from Incidental." than from tho regular "wash." The proprie tor of a woman'" establishment makes his profit from the manicure, the mas sage, the chiropodist and all the inci dental beauty luxuries. New Idea In Clubs. One bath, the finest in the city, has started a new scheme, which It hopes will bring back some of the lost male patronage. It has a club of its own, the annual fee of which Is $100. For this sum a member is given a private locker, where he can keep his dress clothes. He can come to the bath at any time. In dulge in a swim, have a scrub, array himself In all his finery and go on his way rejoicing. While he is absent, his business ult will be pressed without ex tra charge. Then on his return. If he does not care to go home, or Is afraid to go home, lie will be given a cot in a narrow little room, and it will not cost him one cent. The original $100 covers the entire expense. This scheme has made quite a hit with New York bach elors and suburban residents, and the club membe-stip has already reached most respectable proportions. B. F. Yoakum, head of the Frisco Reck Island system, has been in town recently, acting as chaperon for a party of western fi.rrr.ers. They are making an automobile tour through the East to study the roads in this section. Th result of the trip Is that all the farmers have been convinced of the necessity of good roads. They also have been con vinced that it is better for roads to be built by tiie state than by each individ ual township or county. Every member HOW MAE EDNA WILDER GOT RID OF A DOUBLE CHIN Without Dieting;, Internal Remedies, Face Straps or Physical Culture. An. IntereKtlna- Story for Fleshy People. . . "I removed my double chin and re duced thirty pounds in less than six weeks," says Mae Edna Wilder, who stands 5 feet high, weighs 120 pounds and is a picture of perfect health. "I did this by a process which is my own discovery a process of external appli cation. I simply apply the-treatment to any part of the body where superfluous flesh .exists and, it vanishes as if by magic Five minutes every other day for two weeks is all the time needed, and one's most intimate friends need not' know anything about it. I am so grateful for my own relief that I will give free advice to any one who suf fers as I did. 1 consider a double chin one of the most unsightly' physical de fects, and superfluous flesh is Just extra weight that one must carry with them everywhere and all the time; feel ten years vounger and a hundredfold more active since I lost mine." Any interested person who will write to Mae Edna Wilder. Dept. 1021 C, Roches ter. N. Y-. will be told how to find re lief within two weeks. WE CAN SAVE YOU MONEY On all household needs in Furniture, Carpets, Rugs, etc. Not a little money, but a great big slice of the prom charged by most dealers. We want this firm known throughout the length and breadth of Oregon, and the means we have adopted to bring about this result is to give the best goods in each line at the lowest possible selling price. This is our method of advertising, and it has more than doubled our business during the past six months. Call and see for yourself that you can do better here than elsewhere. SAFE PLACE TO TRADE BEST VALUES LOWEST PRICES Morris fcS?S ouk frr.nie; (Jrpjl j loose, re- STAXt-vWTTjJ versible ffjiXV-. iff cushions "T fen i TrniJl t made in H fJ U II coverings, any color Special S6.00. 9x12 Tapestry Rug S13.50 9x12 Bagdad Wilton Rug 839.T5 9x13 Fiber Rug. . S9.50 9x12 Union Rug $5.75 Schmeer' Solid Comfort Silkoline Mattress, $6.50 gMk . i lug t -- I This b fefe.r.,, el-ewh Solid Comfort Silkoline Mattress contains nothing but pure silk floss and white felted cotton, absolutely clean and sanitary. This mattress is good and macle on honor. This is not an ordinary cotton felted mattress, hut made with clean material. We pride ourselves on this bed. In a short time we will have to advance the nrire ah we have been sell ing tame at actual cost. bed would do soia ham fnr 112. Our sne- price now only 96. oO Mattings and up Dresser like cut, all hardwood, finished in royal oak; has Trench bevel plate mirror, size of same 18x24 inches, size of top 21x42 ins.; the top drawers are di vided and serpen tine. Our special price $9.50 Brass Beds, regular J2D, now S14.50 Iron Beds, regular $8.00. now 5.25 Couches, regular $10.30. now S7.50 Cotton Top Mattress, now 83.00 5 aratgarym -.-.rf,rA... Bed Lounge, like cut, covered in good grade velours, well made, sp'l S12.50 Special $5.00 ill 1 1 f I a I. a r g e Arm R o cker. exactly like Illustration, in early English finish, solid oak. The seat Is up holstered in c h a s.te leather. This is a good, strong and up-to-d ate rocker. Regular price $7.60. T. & S. special . -5.00 Arm sim ilar to cut. made in ouk Rood larse rocker and comfortable, special JS2. 50 ' Chltfonler. Ilka 11. lustration, made In solid gold en oak. has 5 large drawers. Sp'l price S7.50 Oomplote Hn of Heaters; all grades, lowest prices. IT ' U Mail orders will receive our care ful and prompt attention. Parlor Suite, 2 pieces, like 11 1 u s tration, ma hogany finished frame, uphols tered with loose cushions, in green v e 1 o u r. This is a good suite for the price, only S15 We itni h a. v a some carpets left for small rooms. Bring In size of you room. Taubenheimer & Schmeer Carpet and Furniture Company No. 174 First Street Corner Yamhil of the delegation expressed great sur prise at the excellence- of the thorough fares found through this part of the United States. The party was followed about by a private railroad car of Mr. Yoakum, and at such times as was possi ble the delegates ate and slept in It. There are nine farmers in the party, and their homes are in Texas, Arkansas, Louisiana and Oklahoma. There will proba'bly be bisy talkftsts down on tiie Sfarn this Winter. Where Did He Declare Love? When William English Walling, young 'millionaire and socialist of Chicago, grandson of the late Governor English, of Indiapa, set up in the suit of Anna Ber tha Orunspan, the Fiench Socialist, for $10,000 damages for alleged breach of promise made in Paris, that he never made any promise, but that if he had it would be no basis for action, because the French law does not grant damages for breach" of promise. Miss Grunspan promptly amended her complaint. Waiting's counsel, Emil Fuchs. found that the discarded and angry little French woman had simply added "and In Germany and France, Switzerland and Russia." as places where he had promised to marry her. Mr. Fuchs then appeared before Jus tice Blanchard in the Supreme Court to demand a bill of particulars from Miss Grunspan. with whom Walling traveled in Europe and was in -collaboration on a book on Russian life.. "I don't see that it makes any dif ference just where this promise was made," said Justice Blanchard. "Just this, your honor." returned Mr. Fuchs. "A contract cannot be said to have been made in several places. We cannot be called oh to defend an alleged contract which had its birth like the little negro boy 'at Boston, at Marble head or 'long the coast.' She must elect the time and place and stand or fall by it." - Mr. Walling espoused Annie Strunsky, the Russian novelist, who succeeded Miss Grunspan as his. collaborator on Social ist books. Quinine With Kvery Meal. How they do ajgrcat many things In South America through the aid of qui nine, even to railroad building, is told by Dr. H. I. Stout, of Washington, D. C, who with ten engineers and mechanics has returned after an experience of al most a year in the Brazilian Jungles, con structing the Madeira & Mamore Rail road. "This road." said Dr. Stout, "will run from Porto Bello to Guaja Marine with the idea of giving to Bolivia an outlet to the Atlantic. Jt will be only 39 kilome ters In length, more than 50 of which have been completed. But it will he the most expensive, for Its size, of any ever undertaken. "Much of its length runs through an Inundated country, full of malaria and ail sorts of fever. Each of the times this railroad has been undertaken since the 70s It has had to be abandoned because of" the Inability of the men to work In the climate. 'But this time an American firm has undertaken It, and will carry It through. A white man has to be extremely care ful in the country, but I must say that thus Jar the health of everybody em ployed has been the first consideration of the company. There is a physician with every party of workmen and men get the best treatment that science per mits. "We had quinine with almost every meal down there, but what capped the climax was at a dinner given by the en glneeers Just before we left Porto Bello. The final course was quinine, and no body turned' It down." Kloretta's Tantalizing Torture. Although Floretta Whaley, the girl who when 17 years old eloped with the Rev. Jere Knode Cook, rector of the fashion able St. George's Episcopal Church at Garden City, Is heiress to part of the estate of her uncle. Anthony Whaley, valued at $100,000, and will Inherit $100, 000 from her grandmother, neither of the bequests will do her any good now, when she needs money most. The will of Anthony Whaley has Just been filed. He leaves his fortune to his wife, to be divided among the heirs at her death. Floretta Whaley's share of this estate will be about $9000. The elopement of the middle-aged clergyman with his girl ward three years ago created a great sensation that did not die out for days. A warrant was is sued for the arrest of the minister on a charge of abduction, but detectives could not find him. Finally the couple were lo cated in San Francisco, where he was working as a house painter, trying to support the girl and her baby. Cook Is anxious to marry Miss Whaley, but his wife will not consent to a di vorce to enable him to do so. Her grand mother has refused her financial aid. He has had a hard time finding work and recently was Injured. Then the family, now consisting of the couple and two' children, ara said to bo almost destitute. Death Knell of Maritime War. PORTLAND. Oct. 9. (To the Edi tor.) Some-time ago I saw Intimation that an inventor had appeared who had been able to direct a torpedo by ap plication of the Hertzian electric wave process from a' shore station. It seemed too good to be true, and falling to find any later confirmation of It, I concluded it was unauthentic; but In the New York Sun of September 12 appears an artlclo which describes the form of the torpedo, naming Mr. Gabst as the Inventor, who has made tests in the river Seine, pre paratory to the official test to be made by the French government at Havre next month. It Is described as being a ma chine under complete control of radio automatic machinery in a range of action of over five miles, at a speed of 20 knots per hour, and carries 1S0O pounds of explosives. There is much more of elaboration concerning It not here neces sary to repeat. What I want to ac centuate Is that In an invention of this character is sounded the death knell of maritime war and a navy becomes a superfluity. With that prop gone thera will be no national incentive left but to stay at home and mind one's own busi ness; this is a desideratum of great con sequence to the peace of the world, a the buccaneer intent on the conquest of other shores will call a halt when such a means of defense becomes utilized. Next, let us if possible find in the dirigible air machine something as use ful to defend frontiers, and then the army, the navy and the clergy wtll hava lost their calling at this miileriial dawn. C. P. C. THROWS SOP TO IRISHMEN Government-Appoints Their Men to Administer Congested Land. DUBLIN", Oct. 9. (Special.) Mr. Micks and Mr. Doran have been appointed the two permanent. members of"the new Con gested Districts Board as a result of John Dillon's bargain with the Government. Mr. Doran's emphatic advocacy of th paternal principle makes him a persona grata to the Nationalist party. Mr. Micks is the author of a fa.moujs report which laid down as a panacea for all Ireland's Ills the placing of vast, sums of British money in the hands of the Na tionalist leaders. The party's official or. gan welcomes the promised appointments. "The thorny question of migration," it says, "could not bo left in better hands." The Bartlum Institute, of Hld!bric, to h epned before the end nf the year, will be the flrpt of Its- kin to begin actual work, as an nInwment has been raised for it. friTD oiofxn Aflfllrif m ' m . - HaHsisiiBtaaiin to every man and woman Will icaud uita jo.ji. 1 SEND TWO 2c. STAMPS TO-DAY FOR A LIBERAL TESTING BOTTLE OF (EAU DE QUININE) This will enable you to test the tnost effective means of retaining the youthful beauty of your hair. Many so-caUed "hair tonics" are offered to the public they may have more or less virtue but with ED. PINAUD'S there is absolutely no question of safety, efficiency and satisfaction. It has been used for nearly a century by people of culture, for preserving the natural beauty of the hair by removing dandruff and keeping the scalp healthy. No other hair tonic has such superior merits. You can prove this for yourself, if you will write for the sample bottle and test it. Send 4 cents to our American Offices to-day and we will forward the sample at once. If you like the sample ask your dealer for a 50c. bottle, apply the tonio every day and watch the results. PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD, dept. 26 ED. PINAUD BLDG. NEW YORK CITY