CORRESPONDENCE PAGE . OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY DESIGNS IN THE costume In two distinct pieces a well-fitting waist and a well-hung skirt Is greatly to the fore. The lovely princess and em pire effects, which are so becoming to graceful figures, are still seen, but Fashion Is now giving them little over decorations which make mem far too fine for any except the dressiest wear. It Is upon the separate Jupe and the separate corsage that woman's every day comfort must depend, and if she wishes to express the latest kinds of fashion her waist must show, to a great extent, very fanciful sleeves, and her walking skirt, at least, be short all around. The "costume" the dress which shows the dressmaker's hand and not the tailor's runs to all sorts of fool ishness in the way of skirt drapings; while many a fine bodice looks no more than a bib of the skirt material applied to a lace foundation, which is the waist proper. These bodices ac company skirts of varidus ports, but it is the right thing to make the sequence between the two pieces wry definite at some point. In other words, the cut of the bodice must look as If It were ' made for the cut of the skirt with which It is worn. So the lace bodice, with the low cut of the cloth bib back and front, will often carry out a princess effect by having a plain panel at the front and back of the skirt. Iraped bodices go handsomely with ' draped skirts, while the plainer skirt, i with hip yoke or box or side pleats i when for street service, demands a 1 coat In the same material to give an I entirely smart stamp, though if the Jupe Is black a stylish coat In any ; other material Is permissible. ; Most handsome are the novelty suit j lngs and cloths offered for practical ' sk'rts. and since the jupe is so much j cut np these need not be In double widths, as formerly, to cut to advant fcage. The standard colors brown, blue I and gray hold the field In point of I majority, but the novelty materials are ( often such a blur of various tints that it I Is Impossible to name the predominating one. Among the stana-oys, me woui Huffs which go on from season to sea Bon, with only some little variation" now and then to spur interest, the diagonal serges certainly take first place, and as the ridge of these Is now very broad their modishness, has greatly Increased. Such serges make extremely handsome suits, but they may also be used for odd ' skirts and be trimmed with the "false" ': buttons long used, or show only a heavy machine stitching. Button are everywhere, and they con tinue to be the size of butter plates, and to take the form very frequently of the old wooden mold, covered with the dress or trimming material. Fancy metal and bone buttons are confined- to coats, but the costume or waist will cover its but- tons with Its own pretty materials or else ; have them veritable Jewels. "Whether yen 1 use one or the other style depends on the fineness or plainness of the garment, for with the button point as with all others in matters of dress. Fashion has .only one commandment: 'Consider the fitness of thine a." i The models' displayed today offer cuts for skirts and bodices which the home dressmaker will find new and easy to make, though, of course, it Is not to be expected that that wonderful creation, a smart garment, comes without some good labor and hard thinking. Figure A. The mission of tills waist is. primarily, usefulness, for it is only a trimmed version of the shirtwaist, and mar be made far more plainly than here: while with the little trimming now used It would be appropriate In a proper ma terial for quite dressy house and street use. This bodice and all the others would be most satisfactory If made on a fitted lining with one breast dart, and this lawn foundation should have a scant bias tail extending below the outside to keep the ijarment adjusted and the waist line trim. If Intended for practical purposes, alpaca and challle are good wearing ma terials, and either may be self-trimmed with bias bands and buttons as the de sign shows. If the waist Is to go with the smart coat-suit, It could be of veiling in the same color, or In some soft, dull, inexpensive silk, also In the same or a contrasting tint. As to Color combinations with odd waists and suits, sometimes a decided contrast Is very effective, such as a pale violet waist with a green, blue or brown suit, or a pale blue or dim green with any of the soft heliotrope shades. With a dress In one of the iron-gray tones now so much seen, any color would be suitable.-especially a dull red, a rich creen or a wallflower yellow. Figure B. Here Is a very pretty bodice of dressy nature for a limited wardrobe, for while it is stylish. It is by no means so much so as to need Its being kept only f.ir best wear. Such a bodice would go charmingly with the skirt models here pictured, especially the one with the down-running hip bands, for it Is only a few of the very stylish dresses which re peat the bodice trimming on 'the skirt. Since lace Is used in this waist model, and the band trimming and novel sleeves are so tip to date, the model would call for a material nice enough ii be In keep ing, such as a Ji?lt-weight cloth, silk, cashmere, veiling or any other fine wool. The purely odd waist would very likely run to silk and net and lace In this de sign, with some Oriental border or heavy la-e Insertion for the banding. Figure C. The garniture, which trims this new and attractive waist demon strates one of the many ways of putting on bodice trimming. The model can be utilized with any skirt, but it Is specially adapted to princess effects; and while a great many materials are appropriate, cashmere In one of the new dr.s of wine shade?, with embroidered silk for the trimming, would create something both rich and Inexpensive. For the puff of the sleeve, crepe ninon. Ixraisine or net could be employed, while all-over lace must form the yoke and cuffs. Where expense j 1 Fig. C. BODICES AND SKIRTS and time must be largely considered. , it would be possible without loss of style to make the trimming out of some yard wide material of rich effect, such as a brocade silk would give. Again, if a bias of the dress goods were used instead of all this finery, the model would do for a very simple dress, though In that case a less fixy sleeve would be used. Designs D. The three skirts are gath ered under this head, the checked one. Fig. and the pleated one net mentioned In connection with Fig. B, both suiting themselves to the bodice shown In Fig. A. A smooth finished men's cloth makes about the best walking skirt that must get hard wear, for such a texture may be cleaned of spots any time by a little soap and water, and it responds splendlly to the pressing that the tailored skirt must Card Party Refreshments THE refreshments for the card party all depend on the time of day the party Is given. Nowadays a hearty repast of salad, sandwiches, Ice cream and cakes at 5 In the afternoon is rather out of place. Most persons prefer, at the afternoon card party, simply tea or chocolate or lem onade served with sandwiches and sim ple cakes. ' Some- card clubs are planned to meet at 12:30 for a simple luncheon, limited to two courses, before the game is begun, and in this kind of club no refreshments are served later In the day. But for the evening card party, a lunch, a little before 11 o'clock, of hot bouillon, a good salad, "sandwiches and coffee, with or without ices and cakes. Is quite suitable. If a less elaborate collation is desired, choose the salad and sandwiches, if men are playing as well as women, rather than the ice cream and cakes, for to some persons an evening at cards Is quite as fatiguing and appetizing as a day at work. Salads: Whatever kind of salad Is served. It should be made of the best ma terials and daintily served. Good chicken salad will probably never give place in popularity to any other kind; it seems to be Just hearty enough, not so likely to be Indigestible as lobster, and more tempt ing in the evening than a more simple vegetable salatd. , Chicken cuts to better advantage for salad when it is cooked whole, either boiled or roasted. The meat should be cut carefully from the bones, separated from all gristle and fat. and cut in even pieces. Then It should be mixed with sweet, tender celery, cut In small pieces. Some persons Insist that there should be at least twice as much chicken as celery, but a very good salad can be made with equal parts of these two Ingredients. Just before serving, the mayonnaise, lightened with a little whipped cream, should be added, and the salad should be served on lettuce leaves, crisp white and curling. A much less expensive salad, and one almost everybody likes. Is made by rolling halved bananas In chopped almond .or walnut meats, and serving on lettuce leaves. Sandwiches: These should be daintily made, and there should be plenty of them. One of the best fillings Is made of chopped sweet green peppers, mixed with an equal part of sweet cream cheese, and moistened with a little cream or mayon naise. This filling Is delicious spread be tween thin slices of either graham, whole wheat or white bread. Another good filling Is made of minced stuffed olives and mayonnaise, spread between . white bread and butter. Liettuce sandwiches are always good, whether the lettuce Is dressed with mayonnaise or with vine gar, oil. pepper and salt. Wain, fresh, thtn bread and butter sandwiches should always be served, so that anyone who doesn't care for the "fussy" fillings will not have to go hungry. Fancy Cakes: These may be made at home, when a big bill at the caterer's Is a thing to be avoided. Anyway, made at home they are sure to be better tasting, and with a little care they can be made almost as good looking. A good cake mixture should be baked In thin sheets about an inch and a half thick when cooked. Then It should be cut carefully, when cool, in little squares.' oblongs and diamond-shaped pieces. These may be often get in order to appear in good trim. Both of the nleated skirts are in six gores, one closing directly In the middle of the back and one at the side oacK. No smarter or more sensible styles could be suggested than these for the business woman, or she who has need of Just such a simple skirt to get about on her own affairs. The draped model displays a hint of the approaching overskirt, and to make B. the over-fall hang nicely a softly falling texture, such as cashmere veiling, or chiffon, or cloth would be needed for If.: of course the whole effect would be more admirable If the bodice were in the same material. It suggests the best frock ft jupe for the costume intended for church, receptions, visiting, etc. MART DEAN. frosted with white, chocolate, lemon ani pink icing and decorated with bits of can died cherries, raisins, citron and candied peel. Candied Grape Fruit Peel: Candied fruit is' generally better liked, at a card party, than- chocolates or bon-bons. Candied grape fruit peel Is quite a lux ury, judged by the price asked for It In the shops, but it Is comparatively easy to make, and then Inexpensive. Soak the skins of grape fruits over night In a strong solution of salt and water. The next morning scrape off the Inside white part and boil the peel for ihree or four hours very slowly, hardly more than a simmer until It Is quite teor. Throw the peel Into cold water to blanch it, and then shred It with a silver knife. Let equal parts of water and granulated sugar come to a boil, throw in the shreds of peel and let them boll gently until they have absorbed almost all the syrup. Be careful not to let them burn. Then take them from the fire and cool them on a board or platter. Coffee Mousse: Beat two eggs, add to them a cup of sugar and a cup of very strong, clear coffee, pour the whole over a pint of whipped cream, mix all together lightly and freeze the mixture, without stirring, for four hours. This cream is easily made, and very good. Methods of Canning Various Fruits. Canned Peaches When the Summer supply of fresh fruit is long a thing of the past, well-canned, peaches are often a blessing to those to whom fruit is a necessity. They may toe eaten plain Fist. D. A. Drsprd Skirt Display!" Hint of the Approaching Overskirt. with sugar and cream, be made into pies and tarts, and will serve as a piquant salad If brandy is used on them instead of vinea-ar. To one 'pound of peaches at a perfect state of ripeness take half a pound of granulated sugar. Put the sugar on the fire in a little cold water and let-It boil until the syrup is clear. Put the peaaeies. tightly packed. Into the jars, and fill theni, Sjlthin half an inch of the top with the syrup. Then put the closely covered jars Into a Large boiler "of water, letting them ttand upon a block of wood so -as not to come Into direct contact with the stove heat, and also see. to It that the jars do not touch one another. The water should come up to within three Inches of the tops of the jars. Then cover the boiler and let the fruit boil till vnder- After the water is cold take out the jars, filling up the spaces with boiling water. - Seal the jars tightly and look at them every now and then on the pantry shelf, to see if any have fer mented. With the first sign of this chemical change empty out the jar, re boll the fruit with a little more sugar, artd can In a fresh jar. Canned Pineapple Choose ripe juicy fruit and pare and cut in slices an inch thick. To every pound of fruit allow one-fourth pound of sugar, and put them into the preserving kettle together, add ing a little water to start the flow of juice. As soon as the fruit Is well scalded through put it in hot jars and seal Im mediately. Good Dishes for Luncheon -Tomato Rice Two cupfuls of cooked tomatoes, one cupful of stock, one heap ing tablespoonful of butter, four ounces of rice, one small onion, one tabie- spoonful finely chopped parsley, two eggs, and seasoning of salt and pepper. Chop the onion and put It into a saucepan with the butter and cook ... .i i.. AVA mintnes. then add Llieill the rice, washed and dried, and stir con stantly until slightly btownea. Mix the stock and tomatoes and add them to the rice: cook slowly till the rice Is tender and the stock quite ab sorbed. Just before serving stir in one tablespoonful of butter, and season to taste. Arrange the rice in a dainty pile v. .nrlnlflP OVCT With the on live vi i 1 1 . i r parsley and garnish with the slices of hard-boiled eggs. Savorv Lentils Soak one quart of washed "lentils for three hours in tepid . rv , .i nni them In a sauce- pan with two heaping tablespoonfuls of hot butter for 15 minutes: add s x cupfuls of stock, season with a little salt, pepper and paprika, and boil them for two and one-nan nuui. t-. i ham nn a slet-e. nut them in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of butter and two cnoppea ineu Moisten with three tablespoonfuls of white sauce and a tablespooniui oi cream or milk, cook for a few minutes longer, stirring the lentils from time to time. Dish up, sprinkle wnn cuvw parsley and serve not. Banana Mold Two cupfuls of milk, half a cupful of cream, three eggs, one extra egg yolk, five bananas, two heap ing tablespoonfuls of sugar, one heap ing tablespoonful of powdered gelatine, half a cupful of boiling water and one tablespoonful of lemon Juice. Dissolve tbe gelatine In the boiling water, then add the milk boiling, beat ud the eggs and add them, stirring all the time. Thicken this custara. out take care that it does not doh. weec. . . - i i if nni "Peel the ba- nanas and rub them through a. sieve. stir them into me cuma.u ........... i l.mnn inife. Pour into a wet mold and turn out when firm. Serve with whipped and sweetenea ci..,. Ti4. T-Tnve two auarts of stock boiling in the soup pot free from fat. add six sncea pui.a.". , . . AnAlv .tmnnuil onions. Slicea turnijj. L " " " - ' ---- - one diced parsnip and a piece of cut celery. Allow an 10 uuiin Ro. ...... - nn-haif hours: strain and rub the vegetables through a sieve. Mix one tablespooniui oi uuui . little water to a smooth paste, add it to the puree with one, cupful or cream or milk, one taDiespoomui mit.j - 1 nor,nr and Salt to cnoppea paiaic.. f ' --- - tasteT stir over fire till it boils for five minutes and serve. Cocoanut Pie Line a pie plate with good pastry; fill with the following nlxture: Mix logenn-i .. . . f rirn starch With three-quarters of a cupful of sugar, . - . . i n.lllr turn wall. then add two cupiuis i . nnA n,mfnl nf desstcated cocoanut. a pinch of salt, one heaping tablespooniui oi ouiiei. - - .Ttrart. the crated spooniui i a uiiu" -, ;- rind and strained Juice of one lemon- Bake in a moderate oven un mi. Sausage Omelet Beat five eggs into , hnnnpH shallot. a basin, aau uno beat up well, and add one heaping tablespoonful of chopped smoked ham r liver sausage, a&D" v - rith salt and pepper. Melt one tablespoonful of butter In an mi.t nan: when hot pour in the eggs. etc.; stir until it sets. Shake the pan hilst holding it in a Slanting puamuu t,-A ttia nmeiet Its TtroDer size. 'I a.9 lu ftitv - ,eave it over the fire for a moment to brown, then turn out on to a hot dish t 'rv with white Vance, an I .-. . . , l Vlnir TIoQ t t Wr rull jniCK.eu a. " " . , , tablespoons butter until it bubbles, add one chopped green peppei, mo having been removed. Let cook slowly for three minutes, then add a table spoon of flour, salt and paprika to taste, and enough rich milk: to make a smooth, thick sauce. When sauce is done, add . t.nJ AklAlrttn an1 lot hot TWO CUPS v . . - - " " through. Veal or fish may be used in place of chicken. Serve on toast or in pastry cases. ' i Fig. D. A Stylish and Senofhle rieated Skirt la Six (ioren. ONE OF BEAUTY'S LECTURES-HAIR THOUGH the good or bad condition of the hair is largely a matter of the body's health, certain phases of disease or unbeautifulness are the re sult of neglect or abuse. The hair is dependent to a great extent upon hygienic treatment for beauty and luxuriance, so neglected hair, however fine in the beginning, will soon lose Its i - Fig, charm. The head unused to the cleans ing bath, to airing and sunning, to ini aAntUinn- .t.nlra rxt Ka hplictl O II fl til frWlflS that nourish it will soon take on the dead, unkempt look which is as repulsive to fastidious persons as filthy hands. If there is a thick powdering of dandruff n nntnliiu, n v.llnm sn.l.G fir, the G . U III the spectacle is even more repugnant, and the woman who looks on can scarcely refrain from telling that offending head that it Is dirty! It is not all its fault, of course, for the ns-.nr' thine, hoa nAVAl lenmed the im- ,'w"' " " ' portance of small things, things as nat ural and necessary as wasning your rim. Tha nantrhtV nPflri OnlV learned about dyes, bleaches, worry and tonics, and so when tne ena or tne worm comes for the hair it can only turn to these. " ' It would be impossible to count the fine heads of hair which are made fairly sick-Antno- h.M)iia of the rnnclri oil and dust they hav accumulated. It would be im possible to count the heads wnicfi nave been ruined by the wire hair brush. It you want to learn its effects, try combing a feather boa with a garden , rake and watch how many bits of helpless down soon mi uio a.i. . iiju .--.- , the young hairs of your head, the hairs i which need the best oi treatment iu -. used to the hard ways of the comb and brush world, so when the relentless scraper slashes across their tender stems and digs at their roots .an tney wiuw how to do is to give up and tumble out. Only a brush with medium stiff bristles should ever be allowed to touch the head, and every stroke should be gentle caressing, as you might say; for an Im portant duty of the brush is to spread the natural oil that exudes from the scalp all over the hair and so promote the high burnish which is so much ad mired. This might be called the second office of the brush, for tne nrsr. is reany to remove the dust. For this reason It Is , 1 ... tt havn a. nnir Of brUShf: wipe o-i r, . ' . in commission one to take off the daily , j nr. stnA fnr the nolishing. To use a fine comb with this same viol ence that often wields a brush is to show equal Ignorance of the delicate structures of the hairs, though when there is no Flc. D. Thin Skirt and the Shirtwaist J Shown In Flsrore B Would Go Charm-4 Ingly Together. time for the shampoo, a gentle passage of a fine comb through the hair will greatly improve It by removing the heavier accumulations of dust. But sich a comb should be of ivory and with unbroken teeth, for every Jag in any kind of a comb will bring hurt with every sweep. Listen to the woman who tells you that her hair Is falling out or breaking off "terribly," and then look on . A; her dressing table for her ordinary comb. Ten chances to one it will show not only one broken tooth but three or four, all of which " have been at their business of slaying the innocents with every comb ing. The use of dyes, bleaches and soaps with strong alkalis cannot be too much condemned, for. scientifically speaking, the hair is composed of the same delicate elements as those which enter into the formation of the nails and the feathers of birds. Like the structure of the skin, too, that of the hair Is cellular, but it is an error to suppose that its life is en tirely on the wane when it is broken or split at the ends, for the constant push ing forth of the new hair weakens the portion which has 'been used longer and so gets rid of it. As to hair that tum bles out. it is always a case of the sur vival of the fittest in a healthy head: the new trees must find more soil for their growth and so weaken the roots of the old onea. When the fall is unnatural ly great, and the hair show3 other signs of -anemia, it is evident that its owner's bodily health Is below par. and the first thing to do Is to build up the bodj- generally with tonics and nourish ing foods. Prescriptions given by physicians for falling hair often contain glycerine, hypophosphites. or sulphur, or Iron, and sometimes one prescription will contain several of these things. A very simple I GROWS HAIR and w can PROVE IT! A lady from Minnesota writes: "As a result of using Danderine, my hair is close to Ave feet In length." Beautiful Hair at Small Cost HAIR troubles, like many other diseases, have been wrongly diagnosed and altogether mis understood. The hair itself is not the thing to be treated, ior the reason that it is simply a product cf the scalp and wholly dependent upon its action. The scalp is the very soil in which the hair is pro duced, nurtured and grown, and it alone should receive the attention if results are to be expected. It would do no earthly good to treat tbe stem of a plant with a view of making it grow and become more beautiful the soil in which the plant rrows must be attended to. Therefore, the scalp in which the hair grows must receive the attention if you are to expect it to grow and become more beautiful. Loss of hair is caused by the scalp drying up, or losing its supply of moisture or nutriment; when baldness occurs the scalp has simply lost ll its nourishment, leaving nothing for the hair to feed upon (a plsnt or even a tree would die under similar conditions.) The natural thing to do In either case, is to feed and replenish the soil or scalp as the case may be. and your crop will grow and multiply as nature intended it should. Knowlton's Danderine has a most wonder ful effect upon the hair glands and tissues of the scalp. It Is the only remedy for the hair ever discovered that Is eimilar to the natural hair foods or liquids of the scalp. It penetrates the pores quickly and the hair soon shows the effects of Its wonderfully exhilar ating and life-producing qualities. One 25-cent bottle is enough to convince you of its great worth as a hair growing and hair beauti fying remedy try it and see for yourself. NOW at all druggists In three sizes, 25c. 50o and $1.00 per bottle. CRFF To show how quickly Saadiriat acts, we will send a large sam ple free by return mail to anyone who sends this free coupon to the CIOWLTOH DANDERINE CO., CHICAGO, ILL., wtt ti.kfr nam mrA Hrirttt and 10c Cut This I Out in silver or stamps to pay postage. formula said to be beneficial is as fol lows: Sulphurous acid .,.,,. 2 vunrti Syrup of orange flower. .......... .2 ounctl Mix these ingredients well and take one teaspoonful In water three times a day. Again, a mixture of 5 ounces of hypo phosphites and 2 grains bf aloin will be advised In the same dose as above, or from 5 to 30 drops of tincture of Jabo randi may be given in a little water three times daily. . When the hair is dry and lustreless it . shows often that the glands of the scalp are clogged. In that case this is ex cellently stimulating to their energy: 'Ml of ersot 2 ounrM Mrrury ot oleate 2 ounces This unguent may be scented with any e!t perfume and used quite three times a wt-li. OH of eucalyptus Is also stimulating ta Inactive scalps, while the beneficial ef fects of pure olive oil cannot be too mu'-h overrated, though it Is dangerous to be forever drenching the hair with any oil. as the excessive use of oils tends to make the scalp lazy and depend en tirely upon artificial oil for its lubricator. Whatever oil Is used, it should only applied to the scalp, and at all times Its application should be accompanied with s gentle massage, for this frlcrton with the hands Is the best of all stimulators for the hair, whatever its trouble. Dandruff may not be a disease In the beginning, but it is provocative of the worst troubles, and generally a sign of uncleanliness. So the first thing to do is to prepare the scalp for Beveral weeks with vaseline or olive oil rubs and then, after a day or so, give it successive shampoos. For scanty hair, with glimpses here and there of spaces that seem almost bald, and which are the result in young persons of bad health or heredity, th following tonic will be found most bene ficial: Tincture of cantharldes 24 ounces Jamaica rum S'i. ounre Olvoerlne V4 onn- Sesquicarbonate of ammonia 2 drachms Oil of rosemary 20 drops Mix, add nine ounces of distilled water, and apply to the scalp with the hands and gentle massage. At all times, and with all conditions nf the hair, a shampoo should possess only soothing and harmless qualities, so the best soaps must be used, the water must be as soft as posslole. and the drying should be thorough before the hair Is again put up. Kggs and a good oily Castile soap, as I have said more times than I can count, make the best shampoo for the general head, though when the hair is very oily a liquid green soap or a little borax may be employed. But for hair inclined to be naturally dry and lifeless any strong soap or the bonstant use of soda'or borax will soon bring the gray hairs so much feared. Above all. don't worry if you want good hair. Worry inevitably reduces hair vi tality, and is an excellent friend of gray ness and baldness. KATHARINE MORTON. Boosting Would-be Climber Brings Gold to New York Woman. New York Cor. Cincinnati Times-Star. One of the finest little grafts In New York is that of society press agent. There's a handsome young woman who occupies a good suite in one of the three principal hotels In town, who makes something more than a good liv ing out of it. She is able to go to Europe every year, keeps her own mo tor, and dresses better than any Prin cess of the blood that has ever, vis ited New York. Her little, scheme is to pick up outside millionaires whose women folks have a passion to get into society, and boost them through the papers. One of her recent clients Is a wealthy Colorado man, the women ot whose family want to figure in the In ner ring here. The press agent must have shaken him down for about the cost of a flock of locomotives. She goes about to the newspapers, with extreme ly striking photographs of the ladies. They are ordinarily accepted, for, apart from whatever news value they may possess, they are real works of art, while the gowns displayed win an "noli" and an "aah" from every woman who sees the portraits. "What good does that sort of work do?" a member of the real New York aristocracy was asked. "Does news paper exploitation ever land an aspir ant in society?" The society man grinned. "I'll tell you." he said. "It reminds me of what Glenn Curtis, the monoplane man. said about his experiments with his flying machine. 'It was easy enough," said he, 'to get up In the air. But I never landed in the same field I thought I would." " i . . -