CHANGES IN FALL HAT STYLES
teii cfv
& P. -. J 'tWi -. r x y fe
IN hats the blacks predominate this
season, and browns are very mea
gerly displayed. Grays are well con
sidered from the general popularity of
that color in outer garments. Dark
wine, purples and blues In soft bats
are widely shown, but they can hardly
he given any decided position in the
narrow confines of the hat shades de
creed for this FalL
In London many eccentric innova
tions are being disclosed for Fall and
?ome will find their way to this shore,
but we Americans are more radical
In our hat fashions than any other na
tionality. Germany, England, France,
Italy and Switzerland have sent us
many novelties In headwear. but when
ever they have been decided departures
from the conventional, our best dress
ers have always disregarded them. Not
only In hats, though it is more marked
in this feature, the American Is de
veloping an individuality In dress that
Is becoming less influenced each sea
eon by what they are wearing abroad.
Those who fashion our headwear
dictate for this season stiff hats of
frcan "5 to 6 -Inch crowns and 1H
tol-inch brims. The domes of these
hats are fully oval-shaped . and the
brims decidedly curled. The tendency
Is toward smaller shapes. D'Orsay
shapes with flattened top. medium set
and wide binding, are much la vogue
for middle-aged men. Most of the soft
hats worn by the conservative dressers,
and this Is to be a conservative sea
son, are confined to creased crown ef
fects. The crowns on these are full
shaped and may be dented or tele
scoped according to Individual taste
and becomlngness.
For the more extreme dresser the
low-crown effects are preferred. In
these many novel arrangements of neg
ligee brims are shown. Ultra shades in
these hats are purples, wines and dark
maroons. The most fashionable, how
ever, are those of the gray order, such
as stone, slate, fog and smoke shades.
There are also many rough materials
shown and these are principally In
mixed tones of grays, greens, olives.
blues and oxfords. The trimmings on
these are ribands and edging of black
or self tones.
In silk hats the crowns are almost
cylindrical, very slightly belled, and
the brim Is of usual pattern, not the
flat, French-looking brim generally
associated with unbelled drowns In silk
hats. Silk hats for young men are 6H
crown, from 1 to 174 brims, and for
older men 5 crown by from 3 to ZVt
brims. The opera hat seems to be los
ing Us popularity In the very field It
has always claimed as Its own. More
silk hats were worn last Winter at the
opera and at the horse show in New
York than were seen of the collapsible
hat. In London it Is also true that silk
hats are usually worn at all entertain
ments; affairs where the opera hat was
formerly in favor.
For motoring, hats as well as caps
of tweed and other woolen fabrics hJve
taken precedence over the leather ef
fects. This is well, as It Is possible to
put some style and smartness into this
headwear. while the leather effects are
not receptive to artistic fashioning.
NOVELTIES IN EVENING WEAR
IT IS noteworthy that the cape over
coat is making a strong bid for
favor, as the evening dress over-
coat for the Winter. Some few men of
social standing were favorably enough
; Inclined toward it to wear It the lat-
ter part of last season. It Is a sane
( step. For grace of drape and patrician
: "air" the Inverness or cape overcoat
I has no peer. It is the only outer over
j coat distinctly formal. It never has
I and doubtless never will be overdone by
i excessive popularity. It has never been
' Incorrect, for some well-dressed men
: have insistently stuck to It, mostly
I elderly men.
i The thing that commends it most is
Its roominess about the shoulders. The
1 Chesterfield and the Paletot are very
i liable to cramp one's swallow-tall coat
I ta the extent of bulging and mussing
' It. a difficulty you do not experience
i with the comfortable and sightly In
i verness. It will have a strong revival
' this Winter.
In the dress suits the most consplcu
. out variation from last season's styles
i ere that the shirt front Is not so gen-
. erousiy reveaiea, ouia ro u
coat being brought further down. This
! Is a happy style and Is likely to stand
. a while in that it obviates the bulging
! shirt. The coats are decidedly walsty.
: Quite a few show velvet collars, breast
rockets and turnback or French cuffs.
These, however, are features that are
accepted more as-r-oncessions to indi
viduality than by edict.
Soutache braid on the trousers is very
fashionable. The evening dress for this
season Is to have the effect of slimness
and trimness. The shoulders should not
be broad nor the trousers too loose.
The waistcoat should ftt snugly
across the chest and arch over the hips.
Those shown this season axe unusually
attractive. The opening Is a modified
"V" shape. with well-proportioned
lapels. They have distinctly narrower
openings. Pome white ones of crepe de
chine have a very pleasing appearance.
There are -also some of white pique
that are quite proper, and some beau
tiful effects In white sil and satin are
shown.
For Tuxedo wear, fancy striped ef
fects In dark colors with patterns of
stripes and figures are novelties of
the season. These garments have deep
openings and are closed with three but
tons of pearl or to match the general
color effect of the garment.
Most men have trouble in preventing
the evening waistcoat from riding up
nnd wrinkling over the chest below.
There are many devices intended to
guard against this annoyance, such as
pinning the waistcoat to the trouser
lop, using an elastic tape, and the like.
The latest and most practical Invention
Is a strip of buttonholes which is sewn
to the inside of the waistcoat and. of
course, rs hidden from view. These but
tonholes are fastened by the wearer
Into the buttons on the trousers and
constitute a sort of pivot or anchorage
that allows a man to bend and lounge
at will without causing a crease or
wrinkle across the waistcoat. The Idea
Is cupltal and certain to find wide fa-
The trousers should just clear the
ankles and not flex over the instep. In
short, the correct evening suit should
follow as faithfully as possible the con
tour of the figure. Vicuna Is a favored
material.
Evening shirts with limp bosoms are
much worn. These bosoms are of fine
French silks, some In modest self-brocades
and embroidered effects. Others
are shown with tiny tuckings. Many
show the French cuffs. On all these
the bosoms and cuffs are of different
materials than the body cloth, which is
of heavier fabric, for the purpose of
preserving shapeliness to the dress
coat. The hlgh'standing collar will oc.
cupy Its usual prominent position as
the only correct collar for evening wear.
The shape for Fall, which will be
adopted, has a very small poke effect.
For Tuxedo wear the fold or wing col
lar will retain Its popularity.
Knitted reefers for full dress, wear
are an attractive as wen as a cuimuri.
able addition to the wardrobe. These
reefers are made of either silk or wool,
are wide and long, and designed to
wrap around the throat and cover the
rhci A srreat variety of colors Is
shown, mostly in plain effects, though
a fancy stitch in the weaving adds to
its attractiveness.
For all formal occasions the silk hat
is now more often worn than the opera
hat. To be absolutely correct in tne
other accessories of evening wear, refer
to the correct dress chart reproduced on
this page.
EDICTS FOR COURT OF ST. JAMES
THE court dress decreed by the
King through the Lord Chamber
lain for those having no special uni
form, differs greatly from that worn
by the King. For court functions,
levees and evening state parties, the
court dress Is of either black silk vel
vet or dark-colored cloth, either mul
berry, claret or green, but not black or
blue. The velvet court dress1 consists
of a coat of black silk velvet,, with a
standing collar, and single-breasted.
The fronts are cut small and cannot be
buttoned. The cuffs are plain but
gauntleted. Two pockets on the sides
are with flaps and have three points
In the waist seam. There are six but
tons on the right forepart and a similar
number on notched holes on the left.
Two buttons at the waist behind and
two buttons at the bottom of the semi
squared tails. There Is a pocket al
lowed beneath the left, breast of the
coat and one beneath the tails. The
body of the coat Is lined with white
tllk. All of the buttons are cut steel.
Tho waistcoat Is of white satin oc
Mack slik velvet, according to choice,
but It must not be of white corded
silk or white marcella. There ts no
collar to the waistcoat. There are four
buttons of small size matching the ma
terial of the waistcoat.
Black silk velvet knee breeches are
worn .with three small steel buttons
and a steel buckle at each knee.
Black silk hose and black patent
leather pumps with steel buckles are
prescribed. A cocked hat of black
beaver, silk cockade or rosette Is the
headwear. The sword worn has a steel
scabbard and steel mountings and the
sword belt Is a black silk web waist
belt, worn under the waistcoat with a
black velvet frog for the sword. A
white bow necktie and white gloves
complete this dress. At levees only
long trousers of black silk velvet may
be wosn with this style of dress. When
trousers are wdrn the footgear should
consist of military patent leather shoes.
The cloth court dress that may be
worn at courts and evening state par
ties varies from the velvet dress in
cloth of either mulberry, claret or
green color and must not be black or
blue. The lining is all black silk and
gold embroidery adorns the collar and
cuffs and pocket flaps. The buttons
are gilt, convex and mounted with the
imperial crown. The -waistcoat is of
white corded silk or white marcella.
materials not allowed in the velvet
dress. It has no collar and has four
buttons of the same design as those
worn on the coat. The breeches are of
the same material as the coat, with
three, small cloth buttons and gilt
buckles at the 'knee. Black silk hose
and black patent leather pumps -with
gilt buckles complete this costume.
The cooked hat Is of black beaver or
that the coal must be of dark-colored
silk and in this case has a black silk
cockade or rosette with a gold loop and
gilt button. The swoi'd has a gilt hilt
and black scabbard with gilt mount
ings.. The sword knot Is gold and the
belt, which is worn under the waist
coat. Is of black silk web, with a frog
of cloth to match the coat. A white
bow necktie and white gloves are worn
with this dress. At levees the cloth
dress is the same as that described for
court and evening state parties, with
the exception that trousers of the same
cloth as the coat and with a row of
gold lace down the outseams are worn
In place of the knee breeches and in
place of pumps plain patent leather
shoes of military cut are worn.'
Wh
en a
Man Is Married
6t- Paul Pianoor Press.
: 1A EN are sometimes queer, and the
. i I married kind "are a, little queerer
: perhaps than the other kind.
Now, when, I married John and I was
Just crazy about John, and he was mad
' about me what he especially admired
! about me so he said several thousand
i times was my vivacity I was so enter-
laining. you know and my very natural
, looking hair! Natural, mind you. was
i the word he used, but, of course, I made
) him explain, and he said when he used
i the word natural, he meant uncurled,
and put up simply like hair his mother
used to wear!
i This was very satisfactory, but still al
' most everything said when you are first
i engaged is satisfactory, and I was
pleased. He also used to say that he
' liked a woman to be intensely feminine;
; liked little ribbon bows, fol de rols and
frivols, and thought a woman should be
! as unlike a man In her attire as possible.
Everything about the woman he loves
i 1s Just the sort of thing he most likes
1 when they are engaged. He thinks the
ntti tendrils of hair which blow about
her ear. and curl so naturally, are too
sweet for anything until after they have
been married a year or two. Then he is
quite likely to say:
"My dear, don't you think you ought
to make your head tklyT Tour locks
axe all flying about."
"Tendrils" have become "locks, and
the charming way they used to blow
about In the brecxes Is now considered
mere untidiness!
Well, apropos of this, I was talking to
John the other night at dinner, really
trying to make myself entertaining, and
thinking how much he must be enjoying
my vivacity, when' suddenly he inter
rupted me to say how charming I was?
Not In the least; now what do you sup
pose he said?
'My dear." he remarked with, solid.
tude, "aren't you afraid those people at
the next table will think you're having a
fit. working your face as you do?"
Working my face!
Well, it is Just as well to omit what
I said. Then he looked at soma fine
looking tailor-made woman one day she
was fearfully made up, and had on about
a pound of "store hair" turned to me
and said:
"I should think you'd curl your hair
like that, and wear those plain tailor ef
fects." disapprovingly.
He had evidently forgotten the time
when he poured Into my ear praises of
my uncurled hair, and my fluffy clothes;
I reminded him, of it. and he began to
read the paper.
After a man has been married a few
years there Comes a psychological mo
ment when his wife should keep him
very busy. It Is the moment when al
most any other woman begins to look
good to him. Then it is that a wise wife
will begin to give much more time and
thought to her personal appearance than
before, and should make drastic changes
In her way of dressing and doing her
balr. If she has been given to "tailor
mades" she should take to fluffy things,
or rice versa. A man takes the critical
attitude toward his wife after a few
years, and Is sure to see something very
attractive In other men's wives. That
la. some men, not all. The very things
that John used to think so charming
about me. he now finds fault with wit
ness, working my face! Talk-about mak
ing a man happy! If you can keep him
happy, you'll be accomplishing a feat
which would make Dr. Cook and Mr.
Peary shrivel into nothing.
Any girl who thinks her troubles are
over especially her sentimental ones
when she Is married. Is much mistaken.
Matrimony Is like having red ants In the
house; eternal vigilance Is the price of
happiness. Now, whenever I see that
John is getting restless I propose, that lie
shall go down to the club, or take a lit
tle trip, and when be aska me to go
somewhere with him entirely out of po
liteness I always refuse. It Is good for
him to have to find his own things, put
In his own buttons, and not know where
his shoes are, for a week at a time. I
never go with him on these little expedi
tions, but when I know hi Is coming home
I go to the hairdresser's, have my head
dressed beautifully, get Tap the best din
ner that he ever ate, and I put on my
best to receive him. No matter how hurt
I may be underneath to think that ha
even tired of me a little, I make myself
so very agreeable that he ts sure to say,
"How good It Is to be home,"
Now, I am. certain that my grand
mother never worked so hard to keep
her husband, but this is an age when
men will stray, the divorce court yawns
constantly, women are many and eligible
men scarce. So if you have a good
man hold on to him, I say, and always
try to keep him amused and interested.
When he starts for one of these short
trips. It Is wise to encourage him to go
West, for If he goes Into the backwoods
he Is not likely to see any well-groomed-looking
women with nothing to do, and
then when he returns his wife Is the
most attractive woman his eyes have
rested on. It Is not quite the same thing
If he goes East; large cities are too full
of charming and well-dressed women. If
he must go East, you might go with
him.
Men are Just grown-up children, and
must be humored and petted In the same
way. Never for your life tell them any
thing for their own good they always
hate it don't preach and don't nag. No
matter what you may think and your
thoughts are your own don't disagree in
small things. Go ahead your own way,
and convince the dearest man on earth
you are doing his way, and he will be
perfectly content.
THE MARRIED WOMAX.
come to the house. Nothing Is more
clutterly to the orderly soul than to see
three or four papers scattered anywhere
around a room, yet where a family is
big the papers must not be thrown
away until all have read them.
A serviceable case and good looking
enough not to disgrace library or den
Is now being made by the women who
go in for the latest thing In embroidery.
A strip of art ticking, burlap or heavy
linen is cut wide enough to hold the
family's favorite newspapers and long
enough when doubled to make a pocket.
Into which can be slipped a half dozen
or more newspapers, folded in the
middle.
The outer side of the pocket is em
broidered with such Inscriptions as
"The Daily News,'.' "Here Are the
Papers." or "Our Favorite Dailies." The
strip is lined with mercerized satine,
in the same tone, or in a contrasting
color to the oueide, and the ends are
sewed Into a seam. This makes a
pocket with both edges open, through
which the papers can be slipped.
The upper part of the case has a sec
ond seam sewed across It, to hold a
narrow board or strip of wood. The
rod from the bottom of an old window
shade answers nicely. This holds the
bag out firmly, as It hangs against the
wall.
Finish each side of the casing with
a big covered button, or ribbon rosette,
under which are fastened hangers of
cord or ribbon to attach the case to the
wall, back of door or wherever is a
convenient place for it.
Prevalent Colors
and Fabrics
"Envelope" for Newspapers. '
The trial' of most housekeepers Is
caring lor the dally papers that
THE significant note in the fabric
decrees for this season la that
there are a greater variety of tex
tiles favored. Last ' season practically
everything was broadcloth in the
woolen goods and messallnes in the
silks.
While broadcloths are still strong in
favor, serges occupy a prominent po
sition in the edicts for this season,
especially those serges of wide wale
weave. These are employed in the
two-piece suits and a finer weave for
the three-piece suits. Soft surface
suitings such as silky diagonals and
close sheared zibellnes are very fash
ionable, as are also camel's hair effects.
In. the mixed fabrics melanges,
Scotch mixtures, homespuns and many
mannish novelty effects are launched
and are looked upon with great ap
proval In the melanges are seen many
of the old-fashioned snow flake pat
terns In which flakes of white sprinkle
the surface of an otherwise dark ma
terial. The homespuns are of neutral
tones, showing knots of bright colors.
Other very fashionable and popular
textures are silk cashmeres, fine wor
steds, satin cashmeres, mohair mix
tures and chiffon cloths.
Of the silk textures the most promi
nent note Is the early popularity of
changeable effects In chiffon and taf
feta and satin. These are shown In
wonderful color assortments. For the
Louis styles which are contemplated to
divide the honors of the season with
the Moyen styles, jacquard silks in
novelty effects of small patterns and
brocades are to be generally employed.
The moires will also make a strong
bid for favor and of these now shown
in the best shops there are three dis
tinct types. One of these is an Otto
man cord with- strongly defined antique
markings, another a fine cord, two-tone
Ottoman also with antique markings,
and the third an extremely light
weight taffeta moire showing faint
water markings In striped patterns.
Velvets also find their place In the
mandates of the season. Fine French
all-silk velvets will be used largely
for one-piece dresses and mannish,
tailored suits.
In the dress goods and silks for
Fall all the tones are dark and soft,
none of them intense. Black will be
a strong factor this Fall In all ma
terials. Including the velvets. In the
lighter weight textures black will bo
relieved by employing trimming ef
fects of brighter color.
Violet in shades of amethyst, mauve,
parme, hello, wistaria, eta, will con
tinue their popularity of this Sum
mer into the Fall months.
Green, especially yellow greens, are
very smart. Copper tones, rose shades,
prune shades, raisin and plum shades
are also very modish. Bordeaux red Is
another shade- that stands high with
the most precise votaries. For tailored
suits, very dark seal brown and dark
Oxford gray are destined for much
popularity.
Housekeeping
Made Simple
THERE are scores of Inventions
lightening the housewife's prob
lems. It is a wise woman who takes
advantage of all the wealth of labor
saving helps offered her in the 20th
century, tit is taking much of the dis
agreeable and unpleasant , out of the
housekeeping. Brain work has at last
come to the aid of hand work in this,
fleVJ so long neglected. 'The old mo
notonous, mechanical, never-ending la
bor In the home Is passing away. Ener-
rail b
Men's
Overcoats
nits an
40
$20 to $
Now is the time to get that new suit or overcoat you have
been thinking about. . , .
We have always shown seasonable goods in large variety, but
this season we have surpassed any of our previous efforts.
Clothes either improve or mar a man's appearance.
Ready-made clothes at their best are only ready-made
they are made to fit "modeled forms," not your form:
They're not up-to-date clothes, be
cause they have to be made up in ad
vance, and any new styles that come out
cannot' be given them.
Unlike 'x the ready made store, we
don't try to lit you to the clothes we
make the clothes to fit you.
It's "up to you."
If you are not already a wearer of
our tailored clothes, these are the styles
you're going to wear sooner or later:
SUITS
OVERCOATS
Coats with extra long roll down
past the center of chest.
Lined with haircloth linen
canvas, which prevents the
coat sagging and getting out
of shape. The shoulders are
hand-padded, giving the coat
. a distinguishing effect.
Lapels peaked, but very 6oftly
rounded at corners.
Front closed with 3 buttons
close together, and slightly
cut away.
Back shapely, and made with
vents.
Sleeves finished with imitation
cuffs, in a variety of styles.
Vests of single-breasted, with
or without collars.
Trousers, conservative and peg
top styles, with one-half-inoh
open welt down side seam.
New styles of wonderful beauty
designs for the man who
walks, rides or drives.
Double or single-breasted, and
buttoning across the throat,
with high standing military
collar. Deep inverted pleats
on sides to allow extra
breadth for protection to tho
limbs when sitting down.
Linings are unusually rich and
handsome.
The "slack" is taken out of the
cloth, so that it cannot
"shrink" after it is made
into garments.
Made to order in a big variety
of fabrics grays, browns,
blacks, blues in the latest
Scotch and English importa
. tions, including the famous
West of England Blue Serge,
life Is
is
Prices $20 to $40
American Gentlemen Tailors
Portland's Leading Tailors
94 Sixth Street, Cor. Stark Street
n..,.vw inventions ana executive
ability are putting It on a basis where
It can be performed efficiently and in
a few hours.
Tklnk' what a gas range has done to
eliminate work in the kitchen. No coal,
no ashes and no uncertain fires.
Laundries and washing machines
have made blue Monday a thing of the
past. '
Rugs, hardwood floors and carpet
sweepers make the old-time dust rais
ing, back-breaking sweeping seem al
most antldiluvian.
Bread-mixing machines enable the
thrifty housekeeper to have homemade
bread quickly and with little work.
Tha vnrlniiB rtrnressen of BterlllzInflT
make home preserved fruits possible to I
all, the labor is so reduced and the re
sults so uniformly satisfactory.
Cookers enable the housewife to cook
several things at the same time, thus
saving fuel, work and pot-washing.
One could go on almost Indefinitely
with these kitchen helps that seem al
most human, so Intelligently do they
aid in the work of the home.
It is more important that a home
be fitted out with these energy and
time-saving helps than that It be fur
nished in the latest and most fashion
able style. With them a woman can
dispatch the work of the house quickly
and efficiently and be free for its high
er duties, that of 'trajnisg the young
minds and making happy the hearts of
its inmates. For while a home must
rest on the foundation of cleanliness
and nourishing food, its superstructure
should be the mental companionship
and moral refreshment that make for
true and happy lives.
On Pyjamas. ' "
London Chronicle.
Pyjamas are. being Interpreted, simply
"leg garments." They were eagerly
adopted by Europeans In India from the
Mohammedans, probably by the Portu
guese In .the first place. Earlier Anglo
Indian generations knew them as "lone
drawers" or "mosquito drawers," and
still earlier penerations as "Mogul
breeches," under which name they are
referred to by Beaumont and Fletcher.
1CN0I"
Mats
NEW YORK STYLES
'V .f- IT 91k
Are the most fascinating
in the world. They are worn
by men who seriously
consider the matter of
dressing correctly.
0.
SILK
OPERA
DERBYS
SOFT FELTS
Buffum a Pendleton
311 MORRISON, OPPOSITE POSTOFFICE
Sold by the leading shop of every
city ijj the United States