1909.
14
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FAT J. FASHICiNS IN MEN'S FINE FOOTWEAR
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THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. . PORTLATTD. SEPTE3IBER 26.
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X wen'i attire the Jiat. the tie and
the shoes may tw made the high
iiirhi. r.r fh anDirel portrait- not
obtrusively, of roursc. nor glaringly,
but In a ta.'teful and subdued manner.
H is getting to be almost as estab
lished a custom for men to wear black
shoes for Winter and tan for Summer,
as Jt Is for them to wear derbies ia the
Kail and Winter season and straw hats
during the Summer days.
Follow this trend. This Is to be a
seuon of black shoes, calf, vlci and the
dull finish effects to occupy the, posi
tion of favor In the Kali edicts. Patent
leather boots, with their exw-ssLve glit
ter, are distasteful to many men. who
prefer what Is known as varmlshed calf
skin, a dull, soft leather. Kif the ea-ly
Fall days. Blucher oxfords rrl two ajid
three-eyelet tics promise strong favor,
and for those who desire to cling to
the waning Summer by affeiiting ox
ford tans, of a light chocoiat shade.
These are shown with much prominence
In the smart "booteries." Ox-btood and
wines s.-e going out of favon, They
r.ever were very stylish and never will
be. There seems to he a strung In
sistency in some iuarters to perpetuate
the green shoes that were introduced
last season with only a fair degree of
success, and as green is one of the very
fashionable colors for men this season,
the green shoes may yet become a rec
ognized fashion factor.
All the smart shops now show them
In a grain finlehed calfskin. Most of
them, however, are quite dark and the
green is of an Indeterminate color. One
argument that men of preciseness find
against mese green effects is that such
shoes, after a little wear, look nearly
like badly polished black shoes, or
black shoes which have been gone over
with atove polish. Pome of these green
shoes have orange color stitching to
accentuate the green. Jn most shoes
this Winter the edges will be trimmed
fairly close and the toes in many new
lasts will be shorter and thicker.
The producing of a short effect in
patte:ns Is being done away with and
the shortening is produced in the last
Itself. Some of the new lasts look quite
blunt and thick. In heels there is a
tendency to vary the height conider
ably. there being extremes In both di
rections. Military heels are numerous
and some of them are as high as one
and three-fourths inches, to go with
the new lasts. For the most r&rt the
word is "higher and lighter" heels. One
and three-quarters inches seems to be
the maximum height, however.
Heels this season are breasted with
a deep concave and some of the smart
est models are made with small top
lifts and trimmed In Cuban fashion.- A
popular edge Is trimmed -eese on the
inside, with a fairly wide extension on
the outside. A number of novelties will
be shown, with green or tan topping
on black vamps, either patent or black
Russian. As stated above, the popular
mode for the season will he the black
calf. Russian or vlci effects. Patents
and tans in various tones are of course
shown and will be worn, but there Is
no question but that for this .season
at least they are on the wane.
In the high shoes the btitton effects,
while probably not so much worn, are
considered the most fashionable, and in
the lace effects the Bluchers are
stronger in popularity than the straight
lace models. Swing lasts are shown in
great variety and those of the conserv
ative shapes are more favored than
the extreme 'freaks." Blunt and "bull
dog" toes ate well within the edicts.
Strap and bu. kle effects are shown for
the men of affectation, but are not
recognized as really good taste with
discriminating dressers.
Some bronze finishes also launched
as bronze is to be very popular in la
dies' shoes and a few daring designers
contemplate that this mode may influ
ence the men to adopt them, but there
Is nothing on record as yet that puts
them within the decrees. ' It is so well
defined that shoes are to be part of the
harmonious color scheme this season,
and as there are ho shades ordained in
men's suits, hats or neckwear that har
monize with the bronze shoes, it is il r
logical to presume that they will have
any great popularity. Black shoes, and
even some tans, have made their ap
pearance in London with gray cloth
tops and extensive decorations on the
toe caps. They look remarkably smart
when the cloth is of gray toning with
th,e suit, and as this Is to be a season
of gray predominating, here as well as
in London, we may expect to see many
such, as well as gray spats with
smoked pearl buttons.
These imported suggestions are go
ing to be noticed as soon as the gray
aspect of the season is well developed.
MODES FOR THE "YOUNG IDEA"
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I OWADAYS hoys- clothes are not
merely boys' clothes, they are
junior fashions and are very
closely related t and Influenced by the
edicts set down for men's apparel. Of
course we do not mean the fashions
"father" wears, but . certainly what
brother at college" wears. Hence,
while the colorings for the season are
more subdued than heretofore, the mod
els present rather a "freakish" appear
ance. This is true In the smartest
styles shown this season for boys from
to IS years. Below 10 the styles are
classified as children's. Above IK they
are merged into regular college clothes.
These differentiated above as "boys'
fashions" are shown for the Kail sea
son mostly In worsteds, although the
cheviots are golnc to be very popular.
Colors In youths' and boys' clothes
will be on the same order as the men's,
with a more decided shade of gray and
olive, or witii a sprinkling of tan and
green, the latter color In the minority.
N'orfolks are going to be worn less than
ever. A single-breasted coat, with dip
front, duplicating the coat v.orn by
young men. promises to be in great de
mand, as it Is decidedly new. Another
garment Is the coat cut with a liigh-
fltting Eton collar, yoke in back and
front, and patched pockets, a decidedly
military effect. Another model that
promises much popularity is the round
corner effects instead of the straight
edge, dip front. This is more modified
in style and cut.
In the short trousers the tendency
is more toward bloomer effects than
the straight trousers. The long trous
ers are cut extremely "peg. Blue wors
teds with shadow stripes of the same
color or white chalk stripes will crowd
the grays and the olives closely in
prominence in the larger sizes. Tn ju
veniles (2H to 8 years the styles are
nearly the same as for Spring wear.
Stone grays and olives, with a sprink
ling of plaids, are unquestionably going
to be the most popular. The ever-popular
Russian models, with military col
lars, retain their favor in preference to
everything else this season.
Blouse or sailor styles are also very
popular. The majority of "smart" gar
ments are shown with military collars,
quite high in the neck; some with sin
gle revers. These are also shown with
the coat cut open in the neck, with
dickey or guimpe effect attachments.
As to overcoats, it is clearly defined
that the protector coat Is the "real
thing" for all ages. .In these there are
so many novelty effects in designing
shown that adequate description is fu
tile. Dozens of clever and attractive
conceptions in ornamentation are em
ployed principally In cuff, flap and but
ton treatments. Some double-breasted
overcoats are shown in ages from 10 to
18, but it is not thought they will find
anv significant degree of favor.
Materials are chiefly heavy cheviots,
tweeds and worsteds, and the colors
those of the' gray and green families.
The patterns are mostly bold stripes,
herring-bone and shadow striped ef
fects. Few plaids are shown in the
overcoats, and where shown the plaids
are of subdued character.
Fashion Robs Farmers.
Exchange.
According to WilMam Dutcher, presi
dent of the Audubon Societies of the
United States, birds save to the farmer
$200,000,000 a year in the destruction of
noxious Insects and noxious weeds. The
great destroyers of birds are the plume
hunters for inillinpry pui poses. Birds
destroyed for food are restocked by na
tural process, but the plume-hunters
recognize no closed season.
Millinery interests in America repre
sent 3S.OOO,000 worth of work done by th
birds for the farmers. As bob white is
the arch destroyer of the potato bug and
the cuckoo of the caterpillar and tlje
HUOUJJeiRCl VI ui ft ' " " ' ,
lark of the grasshopper and the spa j
of the weed seeds, President Uutcher j
tninks ine unu are -niwci u .i icoo,
fair play from the milliners,
In Selecting Your Footwear You Can Make
No Wiser Selection Than a Pair of
BURT & PAGKAR
"Korrect Shape" Shoes
Smart in appearance, perfect in fit and ex
cellent in workmanship. A guarantee of satis
factory wear goes with every pair of Burrojap
shoes, including the patent leather models.
No matter what your taste is, we can
satisfy it. -
This is the only shoe that is made in the
"Burrojap" guaranteed patent leather.
The fact that we stand back of these shoes with an iron-clad guar
antee shows that we know they will wear and give absolute satisfaction
"Korrect Shape" Shoe Store
293 Morrison Street, Near Corner of Fifth Street
11 1 I
C W. Demmler, Manager I Jl I
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Its the p
urosse
of this store to
serve our patrons with consi
eration an
d respect
a,
at all times
To supply the newest and best there is in wearables at
the lowest possible prices, and to make good any pur
chase that does not prove satisfactory. Our
Clothes are the highest standard ever produced in
clothes-making fashioned by the most skilled crafts
men for critical men and young men, and are perfect
specimens of all that is smart, artistic and correct. The
exclusive custom tailor cannot give you any better fab
ric, linings or workmanship, nor any better fit, than
we will for just about one-half his price. We want you
to see our Fall line! They are priced at
$15.00 to $40.00
alem Woolen Mills
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Clothing- Company
Grant Phegley. Manager Clothiers Furnishers Seventh and Stark Sts.