SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER 26, 1909.
1 -
L3i& 1 (Blew Kow A i'l 1 1 vl mV
j& Sate Sguiro- : yffjl LfV Iv
Pa smews.' This Esll M- j: J
to the regular single-breastea I vary rrora i w II r r "7
WHILE wide latitude always
offered In the selection of style
for men. the tendency for this
season Is toward simplicity. There
was n indication of this trend
evident In the late Summer styles and
as has . been predicted it Is quite
marked -for the Fall and Winter.
Fads of the extreme nature are for
the nonce In disfavor excepting In col
lege quarters where fanciful designing
and ornamentation still obtains. The
college man will express bis Individu
ality this season, however. In some
moderation as the color schemes are
of a more somber nature than those In
vogue this Summer. .
Grays of the purer casts are quite
the "thing In all styles of garments,
Not the elephant, mouse and stone
grays that asserted themselves with
some favor last season, but the
stronger white and black mixtures In
fancy weaves. Following close on gray
In popularity are the green casts In
various shades of this family, such as
. v 1 1 in" a vn. and At-
ine oiic p. r -
Untie. These last two are new shades :
In the spectrum of men's fashions.
These grays and greens will be shown
largely In tweed mixtures ana
rough textures and the tendency will
be toward heavy appearing effects.
Blue casts will also be favored and
where they are shown blue, will be
employed a the foundation color with
grays and greens for the composite
color. While of course a great variety
of other shades will be 6hown the
prominence of the colors spoken of
above will be o conspicuous as to
mark these colors as the "real things"
and all others as a compromise to set
personal taste.
Tn patterning, stripes will return and
these are so well defined In all the ad
vance models that It Is absolutely cer
tain that for this season at least checks
will suffer retirement. Every sort of
vertical pattern effect la shown from
the modest pencil stripe to the boldest
bars and herring bone effects. The
stripes most to be recommended are the
Indeterminate stripes which are promi
nent enough to be seen but not so
psomlnent as to obtrude themselves
upon the eye.
- Plaids will also find many votaries,
but should be chosen by men of tall
build. The plaids launched this sea
son are of the almost imperceptible
character for, mark you, this Is to be
a season of simplicity In patterning
as well as designing.
Shapliness . will characterize the
models In sack suits which, by the
way. will be the popular business gar
ment of the season. These are cut
full over the chest, moderately shaped
at the waisfc and easy throughout.
The correct length for sack suits still
remains from 30 to S3 Inches for men
of average height. Shoulders ( of
natural width and finish are correct
and the seams are placed moderately
high. The sleevehead is full ' and
slightly extended.' The roll Is of mod
erate length ajid the fronts close with
three or four buttons not quite so
close set as the models of last sea
son. The front dip Is also lesa extreme
than the Summer models. Vents are
shown very little and where shown are
on the longer coats, and then only a
center vent.
The trousers still show roominess
though they are a trifle stralghter than
baa been tn vogue for several seasons.
The preferred widths are 20 to JOH
Inches at the knees and 18 to IT Inches
bottoms. They should be easy fitting
at the hips but not full.
It is well to emphasize that all lapels
roll softly and are not to be ironed
flat. ,
The tendency now Is to make coat
fronts as pliable and free from stiffen
ing as possible. The stiff coat front is
clumsy, hard to button and does not lie
fiat and snug over the chest. The
double breasted sacks, while- not as
popular as in previous Winter seasons,
are to be reckoned with during the
Winter months, of 1910. These follow
in general contour the single breasted
models as to shoulders and back drap
ing. The lapels are peaked or slightly
rounded and are moderately long. On
these models flap pockets are favored.
Vests are made either collarless or
with the shawl collar and of these the
former 13 vastly more popular and
fashionable. Double breasted vests
are not recorded this season except
ing for evening dress wear. In the
mopt approved models pocket flaps are
absent.
In the sack suits the principal fab
rics employed are tweeds, cheviots,
cusslmerej, velours and soft and me
diums finished worsteds. The selection
of Fall suitings for young men in
cludes much of the high colors shown
last season, but the popularity of som
ber grays in business suits is making
its influence felt even to the college
clothes. Some very nobby conceits are
planned for the new striped goods and
between the smarter cut of the gar
ment and the clever manipulation of
the stripes these garments will be aa
showy aa ever, if not ao high In color
effect.
It is quite significant in the best
models of college clothes that the
freakish pockets. ' pocket flaps, cuff
decoration and button treatment are
discouraged, hence the mandate for
simplicity has asserted itself right into
the enemy's camp. The English sack
"coat is destined to perpetuate the pop
ularity it promised last Fall, both in
college clothes and for morning busi
ness wear, xne moaei oraainea ior mis
Fall is of full drape and shapliness.
This garment win oe next in promi
nence
sack.
English frock coats have been given
much serious consideration by the fore
most designers, but this garment has
never been received with the same fa
vor here that it enjoys abroad. It Is a
dressy, dignified garment of grace and
distinction, and it will yet assert It
self as one of the "best sellers." While
the fashion edicts have not laid any
special stress upon It this season. It can
be adopted with the propriety and with
the consciousness that it is good form
and especially good taste for men of
tall stature. The two and three-button
models are most recommended, and for
men of portliness the one-button model
is comfortable and effective.
The overcoat nodels for this season
show a return to the Chesterfield boxy
effects. These are shown principally
in smooth flnished.fabrics, such as ker
seys and meltons, and the colors black,
blue, oxford and bottle green. These
coats will be of moderate length, hav
t ..Aii.frtrm. Rhniiiders. collars and
ir.i. r.r moderate width and body of
easv-flttlnsr proportions. The lengths
vary from i to E2 Inches,
to the model.
Another overcoat that will have great
approval fa the military overcoat with
Prussian collar effect. These will be
made of fancy overcoatings, with gray
and green as the chief colors employed.
These are virtually greatcoats, built
for comfort and protection. Some mod
els are showing convertible .collars.
These are so constructed that they can
be Instantly changed from an ordinary
lapel effect to the military collar, fit
ting snugly about the neck and giving
complete protection. These military
overcoats are made in roomy yet shape
ly models.
There is also a very voluminous
model of this coat made in both single
and double-breasted styles. These lat
ter have no belted back and are of the
button-through variety .While they
can be used for street wear they are
particularly clever for motoring or
driving.
There Is some inclination abroad to
DaHHnfV overcoat to favor.
and the influence is asserting Itself in
.crfAA over here. In ultra
fashionable circles some will be worn
this season, and the man who expects
to get two Winters' service out of his
overcoat will be wise In having one of
these, as there Is surely a trend toward
this graceful garment that Is destined
to insinuate Itself with more promi
nence into next Winter's edicts. The
i.i. -Krt-n-r. thfc Fa.11 are well Px-
agRerated over the breast, are shaped
at the waist and have a liberal amount
of fullness in the shirts. The waist
seam extends hack to the back center
seam, on a downward slant, the upper
part of the back having three seams.
The entire complement of pockets con
sists of flaps of novel designs.
The Covert coat shows no variation from
recognized standards and still finds many
votarieR who use it ror morning
OUR REASON IS
NOT SOLELY SELFISH
It is not solely because we are agents of STEIN
BLOGH SMART CLOTHES in this town, that
we want you to wear them. This, of course, enters
pretty largely, into the question, but it is not all. We
want you also to feel right and look right, and to be
satisfied. We have a large looking-glass in our store,
in which you can see the front, the side and back of
yourself, all at once. If you will try on a suit of
clothes with the Stein-Bloch label in them, and look
at yourself in this glass, you will see why we are so
anxious to have you wear these clothes.
SUITS, OVERCOATS, and RAINCOATS
$20 to $50
WASHINGTON AT FIFTH
HOTEL PERKINS BUILDING
SOLE AGENTS
twnumn
Acknowledged
Style
SILK
OPERA
DERBY
HATS
YOU WILL ALWAYS
FIND A COMPLETE
ASSORTMENT OF
MEN'S HIGH-GRADE
FURNISHINGS