' THE SUXDAT OltEGOXIAX. PORIXAXP. SEPTEMBER 26, 1.009. " ' :
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I II
ENGLISH STYLES LEAD THE FALL COIFFURES
"M
BY JAXB BRATTON. ,
i ONSrETTR awaits . the ma-
damc." aald the little Frehch
maid, after I had been wait
ing- for a few mlnutea in the reoep-tlon-room
of ona of the leading Lon
don hairdresser. I followed her into
a fold and white eanotorum, where
the man who builds coiffures for all
the world brandished some curling
ton?. Impatient to transform my
straggly locks Into a marvel of beauty.
As he brushed and waved and twisted
my unruly hair, he told me of aome of
the changes we may expect to see In
halrdesslng this Fall and Winter.
"There Is no doubt." he said, sadly,
"that women are growing tired of curls
and waves. Of course, there will never
be a time when straight hair will be
preferred to nature's undulating
waves, however, and our constant aim
in to produce better Imitations of the
real waves. TVe have a new process
for permanently waving the hair,
which I believe has not reached the
States yet. "When It does. It will create .
a' furore. The hair Is locked between
electrically heated Irons, and after it
is shampooed the-wave Is even better
and finer. This means that the wave
remains, practically, forever, although
the new hair has to be waved from
tlme'to time." What a paradise this
opens up for the straight-haired
woman and what a gold mine for the
originator!
"One of the newest coiffures, that
the waning of the curls has developed.
Is what Is called the turban effect. To
dress the hair in this fashion, it is
first waved slightly around the side
and the back, and then fastened to the
crown. The side and back pafts are
allowed a little freedom so that the
width of a large wave is discernible.
To the front, long pin curls are fixed,
which are to cover In light ringlets the
whole forehead. The' lady's own hair
is fixed on the orown to- form a. basis
for the coiffure. Three switches, each
about 28 inches long, are then, fas
tened to. the head in different positions,
loosely twltd and threaded through
each other. These are then draped
about the bead exactly In the fashion
of a turban, and if Intermixed with a
gold gauss riband and ornamented
with a few Shell pins, half-moon
shaped, the effect Is gorgeously Ori
ental. The Greek style of hairdress
ing will remain popular, but a greater
simplicity is looked for. in the baok
arrangements. Center parting with
bandeaux or ribbon, or a twist of hair
on the crown of the head, threaded
with pearls, or gold gauze, will be
seen, on young girls."
At last has- the Ideal curling Iron
appeared. No more singed looks,
sooty fingers, frayed patience. The
new Iron is heated by electricity, may
be connected to any so'cket. and can
not possibly .burn the hair, because
when heated to a certain temperature
It will remain at just that heat, though
It be kept turned on' for a week. ,
Facial specialists are using what Is
oalled an astringent wash that is en
tirely new, and is said to work won
ders in reducing the pores and restor
ing to the muscles. First the skin is
cleansed thoroughly, then massaged
with a medicated cream. After this is
removed the face Is sprayed several
times with an astringent lotion. Next
a coating of white of egg is painted
on the face, followed by the yolk of the
egg After this has thoroughly dried
It is washed off with another prepara
tion and the skin is left like velvet. ,
BT MARGARET MORTON."
i4ST of my customers think
nothing of having 15 or 20
corsets." said a little cor-
setier the other day, who caters to a
large clientele of fashionable women.
A far cry this from the days when a
woman begrudged $' for a oorset that
was expected to wear for a year or so.
The American woman has long been
the target for comparison with the
Parlsienne who spends more upon her
corsets than upon her gowns, but she
has seemed at last to come into a full
realization of the Importance of the
corset. The woman of moderate means
does not go to the extreme of buying
10 pair of corsets, but she Is every
year more willing to pay the higher
prices that the best styles bring.
Although there have been a few cor
sets on the market in the past year in
which the wearer was obliged always
.to stand, thus restricting their use to
receptions at home, the advance styles
for Fall and Winter are without doubt
the most hygienic, comfortable stays
that have ever appeared. The gowns
has ever made the corset. With the
advent of the empire fashion, corset
curves were considerably reduced and
we reveled in the comfort if not the
beauty of the "tube" figure. Now that
'the styles of the Moyen Age are upon
us. which demand merely the sugges
tion of a waist line and taboo the
slightest suggestion of hips, fashion
and comfort in corsetry may go hand
in hand for the first time In a few cen-
, turle or so. Since the only way to
reduce the hips is to let out the waist,
madame is permitted the use of her
diaphragm in breathing, a privilege
that has been en)oyed heretofore only
by the uncorseted. But woe to the
dealer who evolves the corset of ab
solute comfort, because there is every
reason to bellve that If a woman once
becomes reconciled to foregoing 'a
waist like a wasp, she will no more re
turn to torturing models than she
would return now to the curved front
corset of a few years ago.
Fall Models Show Iver But I.lne.
The noticeable changes in the Fall
models are a slight lowering of the
bust line.', with a greater freedom
above the waist, and the shortening
of the boning, although the skirt of
the fabric continues to reach almost
to the knees. Perfect flexibility, com
bined with strength and light weight
Is the aim of the corsetlere. One of
the new models which has been shown
In a few of the shops, laces In the back
and on both sides of the front stay.
This triple adjustment Is said to be
superior to anything yet introduced
for securing the minimum hip.
The amount of boning in corsets has
greatly decreased in the past year,
owing to the new fabrics in use. Ro
man twill is considered ideal on ac
count or its light firmness, but ba
tiste and Pekln cloth, with the silk
Jersey cloths or tricot for the higher
priced goods, are very popular. Some
thing of an innovation are elastic
gores set into the back and at each
side of the front of the corset.
The decree that hips must vanish
has created a demand for special hip
conflners. which may be found in pure
gum rubber, or made- up in a knitted
tricot, both styles of which may . be
laced up in the front until the hips art
snugly encased.
"Corset trimmings are unusually
simple this season,'" says the little
corsetlere. "consisting only of the lace
band at the top 'threaded with ribbon
and finished with a soft bow or ro
sette. The frilly, shlrry supporter
dear to the heart of the staldest
woman, has had t6 give place to the
plain, flat elastic which Is so much
firmer and less bulky. But there la
one thing a woman will always find
a little place for and that is a dainty
sachet pad. We put them in nearly
all of our ordered goods, and some
times we tuck In as many as 20 about
the top of the corset."
JAHN
TOILETTE AND HAIR GOODS
The management has systematized the estab
lishment into departments, changed the help en
tirely and placed competent people into each
department. . We have secured the services of
Monsieur Hierath for the hair dressing depart
ment, who has excelled in all the principal cities
of Europe, also New York, doing the Marcel and
London wave and all modes of 'tailored hairdress
ing, which is so much in vogue, and we are now
prepared to render satisfactory service. . Ladies
invited to inspect our place..
384 Yamhill Street . 185 West Park
NEW MASONIC TEMPLE
Main 5174, A 3544
Mark of Weil
Bred Girl
SHE r.ever appears conscious of her
clothes. To feel yourself -"fine as a
fiddle." and show it means either un
accustomedness to. good clothes or In
ordinate vanity.
She will not get intimate . at short
notice. Most persons worth knowing are
worth testing. Rushing into friendships
shows a lack of social knowledge If not
of Innate good breeding.
She is never consciously rude. A
haughty.' disagreeable manner is a snob
bish cloak too often by the would-be
well bred, and sometimes unfortunately
mistaken for the real thing. '
She does not shirk her obligations. You
rarely find "the real lady"- slipping up
In her engagements because something
more interesting turns up. or neglectful
of her shabby friend when more socially
important guests are present.
She Is not blatant or boastful or ar-
gumentative; nor Is she noisy, giggling
nor artificial. The girl who is well bred
knows the poor taste of making herself
conspicuous? either by her manner, her
dress or her conversation.
She does not size up her friends and
regulate hr agreeableness by what she
can "draw." True politeness is selfless
or at least has that look. To be pleas
ant only because it Is worth while is a
mask that gets unexpected rents.
She never develops a love of family
skeletons either her own or her friends.
It Is equally bad taste to parade your
own "black sheep" and spot those- of
your friends.
She does not boast. There are many
faults that the presumably well bred
women Is forgiven without losing caste,
but bragging Is not one of them.
Fall Styles in
' Fine Lingerie
THERE Is something about the
froufrou of soft laces and sheer
lawns swirling Jlke sea foam
about silken ankles and flashing feet
that will lead a woman Into rank ex
travagance, and. it might be said in
passing, reduce a man to Imbecility.
So is It any wonder, that after a Win
ter of discontent with dlrectolre styles
which permitted of only the severest
lingerie and slips, the Moyen Age cos
tumes are welcomed royally. If for no
other reason than because of their
pleated skirts. Once more may the
woman who loves frills and frippery
and what woman doesn't whip miles
of lace onto miles of insertion and
sprinkle adorable bows all over her
lingerie. Although perfect snugness
about the waist and hips Is, required,
fullness bejow the knee is essential for
the new style skirts. If the Louis XV
effects gain the ascendency that 1s pre
dicted, we will probably see even
greater fullness of the under slips and
petticoats.
' The silk petticoats, seen in the shops,
which should be of the exact shade of
the gown this season, may be fitted to
a nicety by means of. the patent but
tons which regulate the waist band
and placket. Some of the plainer
styles show a pleated flounce put on
Just below the knee, with the -bottom
simply hemmed, while others have
tiny fluted ruffles put on in acrolls or
straight around. . Changeable .taffetas
are popular, and plaids are attractive
with the severe, tailored suits.
Princess Styles Best' for Xew Gowns.
CorseO covers, because of their -utility
and economy, have held their own with
t "SN'S
flfHW Cream
MiwM!yj' BEAUTIFIES
??$lllJ PROTECTS an!
' skinERVES the
(i Use Daily Instead of
WIKlllw HAIRDRESSING
(U VvRS VVol1-::kN- ' HAIR GOODS
VJ FF FACIAL MASSAGE
N) WW MANICURING
. ''r''' Demonstration Freest . '
f ' -' Room 207 Macleay Bulletin
if . 286 WASHINGTON STREET
. Telephone Main 1471 ' PORTLAND, OR,
the princess slip and thesone-piece set.
but the combination of the corset cover
with the French drawers will be one
of the best styles for ' wear with the
new gowns. The tightly fitted corset
cover attached to knlckerbocker. draw
ers in sheath effect does away with the
least bulkiness or wrinkling, but as
they admit ' of . little or no trimming
the slim woman will prefer another
style. These: sets, however, developed
In soft silk, are ' preferred by the
woman who Is delicately said to pos
sess embonpoint. ,
There Is a very large variety of laces
used In the trimming of under-musllns,
which are. usually combined with em
broidered medallions,' or Insets of all
over embroidery, or the embroidered
edging that may be appllqued in. rows
with the straight edge finished with
insertion. Hand embroidered lingerie
Is always In perfect taste, and though
the French work Is rather expensive.
It will outwear two sets of sheer, lace
trimmed underwear.
There is a marked 'tendency' for the
introduction of .a faint color into the
latest confections in lingerie. Women
have foregone the delicate pinks and
blues with which they .used to thread
their underclothes because there was
always a doubt as to the refinement of
It, but color is being sanctioned by
Thos Who. Say So, and some of the
latest models show embroidery worked
out In dainty shades of lavender, pink
and blue,. Colored undervests also pre
dominate over white.
For the- ultra-sensible woman, or the
woman who will travel, there Is always
the knitted combination 'suit. An Inno
vation In this style of garment has
Just appeared. It is a pomblnatlon of
knitted vest attached to drawers of
laoe trimmed batiste: The, whole thing
slips on over the head and the snug
fit of it Is especially desirable for wear
under the tight gowns.
Paris Hair Store
Established 18SS 308 Washington
Leading Wigraakers
and Hairdressers
FIRST QUALITY
Human Hair Goods
OUR SPECIALTY
NOTICE Please don't compare our
goods with the SO-CALLED real
human hair goods you see around
town In other stores.
New Fall Styles
Artificial Hair
Marcel Wave. Phone Main 871t ,
Rosenthal Sisters
Hair
Dressers
Mar-touring
for Ladles
and
Gentlemen, '
Scalp -Treatment,
Hair (jqods.
90 Seventh ft..
Bet. Stark and Oak, Portland, Or.
-jL .
Just in Time for
The Horse Show
a
The newest novelties, ' "Billy Burke" Curls,
Waves, Puffs. Switches, Rats and Coronet "
Braids in all shades, just in from New York.
A yesterday's express shipment adds to our
already large assortment. New jet back
combs and barrettes in sets, latest and most
fashionable of hair ornaments. Beautifully
jeweled combs, many exclusive designs,
only one of each in the shipment, and a
complete line of gray hair, combs and orna
ments, the finest in the West.
A complete line of shampoos, stains, tonics,
dyes, dandruff destroyers, hairdryers with
warm' and cold air, curlers, combs, etc
always on hand.
Buy Here and
Get the Best
See our immense stock of exqnisitap!PerfuT3es,
Manicure SetsInstruments,' and Hair Brashes befora
making selections. Exclusive Agents Cross Gloves.
Toilet Section
Fourth and Washington Streets
415 WASHINGTON ST.
Corner Eleventh
Iwan & Winkler Go.
For
Smart, Snappy
Styles in Ladies'
READY-TO - WEAR
GARMENTS
You Should
Not Fail to Inspect
the New Fall
Models
Now Shown by
iwan & Winkler Co.
415 WASHINGTON ST.
1 Corner Eleventh
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