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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 19, 1909)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. SEPTE3IBER 19, 1909. CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY Long, Graceful Lines Are Still Fashion i. . t THH heart of the home sewer need not palpitate, with fear as she picks up her scissors with doubting mind as to the new styles, for If she still con ' tinues to look out for the long lines that culte two years have celebrated, she wil' be on the safe side. There Is. ss always. Incessant talk of radical changes In fash Ions, but with the exception of a few wider skirts, and some oddly trimmed ones, there are no marked changes as yet. Thaa Is. with the exception of sleeves, for . It looks as If we are going back to the elbow puffs, which were never an addition to grace, however much they gave Ideas for the usintip of several materials. The long skln-tteht sleeves, that fell with unbroken lines to the very knuckles, and which were so beautiful, are being replaced with unnumbered oddities. One sleeve shows a cap of the gown stuff fall ing short of the elbow, over an elbow puff of silk. which. In turn, is met by a long lnce puff. Then there are a number of sleeves and these are fur prettier which plainly indicate a leaning toward undcrsleeves. These are three-quarter lengths, with turn-back cuffs 6t various sorts, a long wrist portion emerging from under these with a look of being entirely separate from the sleeve. A large number of the new bodices are fi tted snugly and display the waist line at the proper point, but the gown all in one still holds Us own. and In many cases shows the wrapper-like looseness lately ; admired. These loose princess dresses, however, are only suited to youthful and slim figures, so. no matter how lovely they appear, the figure which has out stepped youth and beauty should avoid them. With costs there Is a decided leaning toward reddingote cuts, and such styles, while entirely Jaunty, are eminently suit ed to the middle-aged. In fact, a long coat of this sort, in some smart rough wool or plain cloth, and one of the com pact turbans which would go with It. will be a decidedly modish get-up for "Winter walking use. Apropos of coats, whether one is young or old. remember that a loose or semi-loose fit and a long cut are a deal more becoming to both the stout and lean than a garment which shows. every bulge or hollowness in the figure. There is absolutely no abatement in the prestige of the lace uimpe or white and cream yoke, and there is scarcely a fine gown which does not still show them, and sometimes carry the length of the yoke to exaggerated points. Band trim mings In insertion are much used, and the.v may be of lace or of embroidery, according to material.. This week's models demonstrate these remarks more fully, and give excellent Ideas for late Autumn and Winter use. Figure A. This semi-princess gown is one of the prettiest of the new designs for young girls or youthful married women. The cut is rery generally becoming to slim figures, and such a dress is adapted to a great many occasions. This one Is made of cashmere In one of the new metal gray shades, and Is trimmed with band ing that shows a touch of black and silver: while the chemisette and under sleeves are of cream-colored lace over gray chiffon. The belt Is of messaline in the gown color, and the button molds are covered with the same, and treated to a touch of black embroidery. A faint line of pale blue or rose chiffon at the top of the stock and at the ede of the sleeves would make this dress more becoming to many persons and acid to Its stylishness. Silk, veiling. French panama. and a number of plain novelty wools of a thin nature are other materials which may be used. A very light-weight cloth is also suitable, but a rough, clumsy wool would not be at all adapted to the style. Figure B. The coat that Is made with a stiawl collar of the sort shown, in this model, is one of the favorites of the mo ment, and this one. while Including the lntst kinds, presents stylish e very-day features. The long shoulder seams of the front and the semi-fitted French back, as well ss the curved side seams, produce the slenderness that Fashion demands, while, though seemingly close, the coat sleeves admit the easy passing, of the bodice sleeves. The narrow cut of the neck opening and the shallow depth of the shawl collar are the strawberry marks of the right coat, for the utmost restraint 1 mly modish at these points. This model would be admirable both for nn odd coat and a coat-suit, and merely s choice of material would make it as practicable or dashing ns the home sewer likes.. An odd coat would be handsomest In cloth-brown, blue or black, and for the coat-dress serge, hop-sacking, zlbbcline, cheviot and cloth are all permissible. For the trimming at the lower part of the collar, velvet or coat-satin should be Bjed, and the skirt that accompanies the coat be short and preferably scant. Figure C. Here are the wrapper-like princess dress and puff sleeve In all their glory, for the plainness of such gowns Is their chief point. Any Inexpensive wool Making of Toilet Powders, Their Boxes and Scents THE "boughten" face or body, the one that you make with powder, may be delicious, but your own hands will have a surer guarantee of purity. It may obtain Individuality, too, by the use of a single preferred scent, and be made more delightful to the mind by being- kept in graceful re ceptacles. A very rreat deal of harm Is done l FIGURE D ' material or prettily figured silk would achieve a smart house dress in this style, but, of course. If worn outdoors. It would need to be covered with a lorwf coat. The back and front of the dress are In two unbroken panels: the plaited sides of the skirt are Joined to the slightly fitted bodice portion, and the dress is fastened on under the banding of the left front. A pale cloth with a fancy silk braid In t . T . 1 1 T T - - - - - - -' j l FIGURE Cv the same color would very stylishly real ize this dress, and if there happens to be scraps of handsome lace on hand they could be used for the yoke and sleeves over a silk or chiffon lining. With cash mere a thick and handsome ribbon, in a novel design or even one in plain satin, could very well form the banding. Figure D. One of the latest of the bodice models is here pictured and the design Is equally useful for an odd waist or a dress. The bodice Is prettily fitted to the skin by the use of powders containing- mineral substances. The ar senic, lead and mercury which are sometimes put In the velvety powders which are so liked for their adhesive qualities are poisons, and the contin ued use of a whltener, liberally di luted with these, may even endanger life itself. A powder, to be good, must be pure, cooling, and, while not ob structing the action of the skin, yet be a protection against atmospheric im purities. What is known as a vege table powder, one made of rice or wheat flour or starch, insures this purity, and if there is any doubt about the fancier article, the presence of lead, at least, may be detected by test ing it with ammonia. If lead is there the powder will at once assume a blackish tinge. A simple face powder which is much In favor In Paris, and which Is rarely brought to this country without a mix ture of other ingredients, is called by the druggist, who will sell you a big boxful for 20 cents, araidon de ble wheat starch, pure and simple. Again, the French woman careful of her complexion will buy an unscented talcum, put it in a pretty box with a few sweet-smelling flowers, and close the box tightly, leaving It shut till the dust has absorbed all of the flower odors. Rice powder, magnesia and precipi tated chalk may be sweetened in the same way, and make inexpensive and absolutely pure powders. In a land where orange blossoms, gardenias, op poponax and other . highly odorous flowers grow, a rice powder scented with them would be the height of luxury. In this way merely bottling up a simple vegetable powder with a knot of dainty posies and waiting till the flower souls were extracted the fair Creoles of Louisiana and South Carolina have for generations made the most Im portant of their cosmetics. A tinted talcum powder which Is recommended as slightly invigorating with pleau which hold the French back snugly to the figure and stop short at the fronts with a yoke effect. The long vest shows the depths to which some of the auiinoes will run. and the half tucking at the inside of the sleeves gives ease to all the arm. . For an odd bodice, silk with a lace or net guimpe and undersleeves Is always useful, permitting various uses; and here the banding could be of plain ,black rib bon velvet, for this trimming continues stylish and is always a good standby. If the bodice Is to be part of a dress, the material should have some degree of fineness and the skirt show somewhere a repetition of the trimming.. With such a waist, a skirt trimmed as In figure A would be pretty and suitable, for this arrangement is seen as much In odd skirts as In princess effects. MARY DEAN'. or at least entirely harmless is made as follows: Put four ounces of talcum powder in a wide glass Jar and pour over It eight ounces of distilled vinegar. Let stand for two weeks, shaking the bottle dally; then filter through porous paper, and wash the powder In dis tilled water, filtering again till the vinegar taste Is gone. Then mix the powder with 15 grammes of finely ground spermacetti and three grains of carmine, with sufficient violet, or lavender, or rose, or orange-water, to make a paste. Dry It in other open mouthed Jars, covered with a white cloth to protect it from impurities. One celebrated doctor of the skin commends this formula for a richer but equally harmless powder: Rloe flour 6 ounces KIce starch 8 ounces Carbonate of magnesia 3 ounces - Pulverized boric acid IH ounces Powdered ' orris-root ..14 dr-Wchms Kssence of citron ............. 15 drops Essence of bergamot . . 30 drops Mingle the essences with the mag nesia, and then smoothly rub all to gether. Apply the powder over a light coating of cold cream well massaged into the skin, and put It on generously so that It may sink in. Then, before going out, wipe off the superfluous white, with a soft cloth. In this way the complexion Is "kept on" and the skin perfectly protected from dust and wind. No toilet article Is more comforting than a foot powder, as this Is both cooling and sweetening, the antiseptio qualities absolutely banishing the odors Incumbent upon the wearing of shoes. In extreme cases of foot fatigue and offensive perspiration the nowder must be plentifully used, rubbed on thickly with the hands after the bath and ap plied between the toes. The following powder Is highly rec ommended by persons of authority for both foot and hand uses. If sprinkled in the shoes or gloves it will be defi nitely helpful In the way of correcting abnormal moisture, and will help the foot and hand coverings to go on more easily. Phenlc acid 10 grammes Alcohol 2f gramme Ftarch 20O grammes Florentine orris 150 (rtmm'1 Essence of violet - grammes Dissolve the acid In the alcohol, add the violet essence, then the starch and the orris-root. If fresh flowers are not used in the manufacture of a Dowder, perfume In extract form must be employed. Ex tract of violet, stephanotis. and hya cinth are scents which will remain with the last dust of powder, and yet be sufficiently delicate not to offend. If only a faint odor Is desired, and one of exceptional elegance, three drops of otto of rose will give a charming hint with movement that a rose Itself has passed. Besides the fresh flowers already named, all species of Jessamine the yellow Jessamine that climbs the scrub pine of the Southern field, the starry white - Catalonlan Jessamine of the porch narcissus, and richly scented roses, are all useful for the scenting of a simple home-made powder. A charming and safe receptacle for of course It Is not wise to leave a beauty box open to collect Impurities is one of the round celluloid boxes tinted to imitate Ivory. The beautiful china pastille boxes of imported nature are likewise exquisite holders, though If economy Is an Important point, a glass preserve tumbler with a cover of the same may be used and made pretty by tying it about with a bright ribbon. A powder box used by a bachelor girl of wit and taste was no more and no less than a round paper box which , had once held a confectioner's peppermint creams. Of course, it was exceptionally pretty a rich violet, sprinkled witn the blossoms, hand-painted. No two opinions agree on the subject of the powder distributer. But tradi tion has given the swansdown puff an eternal elegance, and those women gifted in the art of make-up find the end of, an old silk underskirt, or th top of a fine white stocking most use ful for smoothing purposes. KATHERTNF! MORTON". SOME TIMELY RECIPES Floor Flour should always be sifted several tlmos.'as this adds to the light ness of bread or cake. When sour milk is to be employed with the flour, cream of tartar or baking powder is omitted and only soda used. Tea bis-: ruits, made with soda and sour milk, are delicious Southern delicacies. A quarter of a teaspoonful of soda is sufficient for a quart of flour. - RrFnd Crnmbsj Crumbs that are to he kept for any time should be put in glass jars. Jars with the tight screw tops used for preserves are excellent for the purpose. The crumbs will keep hotter if the bread is first dried in the stove.- then grated and bottled when en tirely cold. All scalloped dishes include crumbs in the mixture and a dry dust of them on top. With the addition of the crumbs and proper seasoning all fragments of fresh meat, fish and poul try may be used up. Meat and (inntr It is not correct to wasli meat and game. When cleansing is needed, scrape the bird or joint with a sharp knife and wipe with a cloth dipped in a weak solution of bi-carh-onate of soda and water. Wipe after ward with a fresh cloth dampened in water alone. If boil-meat is unduly strong, it may be soaked for an hour In soda and water. Never pierce meats or game while rooking, "for this allows the juices to escape. For stews and soup put the meat on In cold water, gradually heat ing It. and letting it simmer onlv till done. When meat Is put on In boiling water the outside Is at once formed with a shell-like coating which confines the juices. Fast boiling is ruin to both nutriment and taste. Soup Stock Few housekeepers un derstand the trick of making soup out of a stone, as the fable puts it. A continuous stock pot may be had ly carefully putting away every clean bone and fragment of meat in the iee box for the next day's use. Imme diately after breakfast put these on in fresh cold wateg. and set the vessel where the stock will cook slowly. When, done, let it stand till the grease rises, then skim, strain and add vegetable dice, rice or barley with a further cooking till these are done. Vermicelli and home-made noodles, with a good stock,' make nutritive and delicious soups. Chicken Souffle: Put a tablespoonf ul of butter in a pan and melt it. Into this stir a tablespoonful of flour until smooth. Then add a pint of milk and stir contin ually until it boils. Add a cup of stale bread crumbs and cook one minute. Take from the fire and add a half teaspoonful of salt and pepper and parsley to taste, with one pint of cold chopped chicken, and the yolks of three well-heaten eggs. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth and stir carefully into the mixture. Pour Into a greased baking dish and bake in a quick oven for 20 miniues. Game, fish and oys ters can be used In the same manner. Vegetables. The freshness of green vegetables adds much to their taste and digestive quali ties. A withered vegetable may be fresh ened by soaking it for some time In cold water, but It will never be the same as the fresher thing. The vegetable plucked from the garden with the dew of sunrise, and in the pot with r.oon, holds the flavor divine it still "breathes the sweet breath of Mother Earth." '''' ' ' ' j FIGURE A ALL. the world cannot give a big din ner party, but there are many homes which can very well afford a little one. The old and graceful usage of offering the beet of one's board to the merest stranger within the gates Is, un happily, passing away. But it is obliga tory upon all who accept hospitality to return it. and those who wish to climb t. ... I ill' I I i . I HI 1 i I I II ! j - ' ' FIGURE B . the difficult ladder of Eocial recognition can do it in no better way than by giving dinners. Around a well-cooked meal, gracefully served, the heart expands and manners take on a more-subtle polish. Both hostess and guest Is at her best the man-servant and the maid-servant awaken anew to the dignity of the home. Four guests are an adequate number for a small dinner party. These should con sist of two gentlemen and two laditys a squire for each dame and If the hostess is widowed there should be "an additional gentleman for herself. Quite a week be fore the affair the invitation should go forth, written in the hostess' own hand and couched in gracious language. The word "party," from its very pretentious ness, is not permissible in this announce ment. The invitation, in fact, should read very simply, perhaps as follows: Dear Mrs. Brown: We are going to have Mr. and Mrs. Herbert, of Boston, dine with ue Thursday night, and I write to beg that you and Mr. Brown will also delight us with your presence. We dine at 7. Trusting that I may count on you, cordially yours, etc. If the dinner is given to a young lady who la a stranger in the town or city, unmarried persons are asked, the hostess taking care to place the most desirable man guest beside her visitor at table. The table must be completely laid be fore the guests arrive, and In this man ner:' A round table makes a prettier ef fect than a square one, but whatever its shape the cloth makes a richer appear ance If the board is first covered with a layer of thick cotton flannel. Felt pad ding for the purpose is sold in all the shops, and, being without seams, tills is preferable to a cotton flannel that would need to be seamed. The cloth of snowy white damask must be perfectly washed, and the whole arrangement of the table may be kept more precise if it has been ironed with the long fold down the center. This gives the waiter's or waitress' eye the opportunity to keep dishes straight and properly balance the sides of the cloth which fall over the edge of the ta ble. The proper arrangement of the table, and the deft and eaey service required for the dinner to go off with eclat, are very important, so that any clumsiness here will seom to indicate that the hostess herself is at fault in not having correctly trained her servants. All the table's silver and glass must be burnished as brightly as 'possible, and If flowers are to be used they are placed in a wide handsome bowl in the center of the table, .with the blooms so arranged as not to obstruct faces or be otherwise a nuisance. The bowl stands upon a centerpiece of handsome linen, with a lace or embroid ery edge, and is flanked at each side with a small table lamp, or else is surrounded by four candle stands, with the light soft- ened with crimped paper. Where wine Is used, the glasses for champagne are un colored, but red or green or opaline glass may be used for red or other white wine. These glasses are placed at the side of each plate, which stands upon the bottom, and two or more forks at the left of It, and two or three knives and the requisite number of spoons at the right, the knives being next to the plate itself. A strictly temperance family would find a thin fruit punch more mineral water than fruit a charming and palatable (substitute for wine; and this, of course, would be served in wine glasses. No plate mats are ever used with a large tablecloth, and except for small in dividual salt and pepper bottles the condi ments remain where they belong upon the sideboard. Few persons unaccustomed to the little niceties of dining out realize that it is the. height of rudeness liberally to salt or pepper each morsel handed them at a private table. If the hostess herself .asks, "Is there enough salt and pepper?" and begs you to avail yourself of the pretty china receptacles near at hand, the path is clear for more seasoning. Oth erwise, one must smile and bear with the usual amount of pepper and salt required to make food palatable. , The quantity of bread is curiously limit ed at dinner parties. Often only the small neatly shaped piece, which the guest finds neatly tucked in the fanclly-folded napkin on going to the table, is all that Is of fered; hut fashion notwithstanding, it would bo far more gracious for the hos tess to supplement this morsel, so insuf ficient to many, by an occasional helping from the bread tray. A small dinner party is almost Invari ably served In courses first the soup, a very small quantity or four well-chilled oysters; then the entree, sweetbread saute or maybe grilled lamb chops and green "peas: then the roast, which Is game or fowl with a piquant Jelly: then the salad, which the hostess herself, if she pleases, may prepare at table; then the salad and cheese; and then the dessert of Ices and fancy cakes or macaroons. A small cup of black drip coffee comes next, and after that grapes and other fruit, and perhaps tiny glasses of llquer, may be placed on the table. The fruit is eaten from small plates placed under the finger bowls, the pretty fringed doily of which theguest removes for the purpose, placing the bowl directly upon it as she puts it upon the table. The fingers are washed after the fruit, but the ablution is of the most delicate sort, the merest dip of finger tips in the water, which is -scented with perfume or else holds a slice of lemon." The conversation of the dinner party Is led by the hostess, and ladies wear gowns slightly cut out at the neck, and men dress suits, white lawn ties and patent leRther pumps. If the meal has lasted a long while say an hour or an hour and a half the guest does not remain long afterwards, unless urged to do so by the hostess, and upon going it is correct to compliment this lady upon her charming feast, and to say how much the evening has been en Joyed. Within a week's time It Is also the correct thing to pay a dinner call, upon which occasion the bachelor without housekeeping establishment brings the lady a hnndsome bunch of flowers, or at least a rose or a box of candies. To give a dinner party of a pretty sort Is a charming way of celebrating Thanks giving. Christmas and New Year's. The 'unction Is also especially adapted to the first social moves made in a new town or the distinguished traveler, and the person of superior talents of any sort, are al ways so honored. PRUDENCE STANDISH. OLD BRIDGE OVER SANDY Pioneer Authority Thinks Structure Must Have Been Built After 1861. M'MINNyiLLE, Or., Sept. 1R. (To the Editor.) A few days ago a news article appeared in The Oregonian in which -mention was made of a photograph re cently taken of a portion of an old bridge that had once spanned the Sandy River on the Barlow road, and leading across the Cascade Mountains by the wav of Mount Hood. In the report re ferred to. It was said that the bridge was supposed to "have b.een built about 60 years ago." Iet me say that no bridge was eve built across that stream for many years after that time. In the Summer of 1S55 I crossed over that road three times. The only road then across the mountains crossed the Sandy at Reve nues and passed up the north side along a high ridge called the "backbone" for about eight miles, then down to the bottom, then on up to Zigzag. Iaurel Hill and Summit Prairie, where the Summit House now stands at the foot of Mount Hood. I again crossed In' 1859 .from east to west, at which time I found a new trail bearing to the left, which crossed Sal mow River near its mouth and kept down the south side of Sandy about where the wagon road, is as It now runs to Revenue's, and on down to Portland. Again in 1S61 1 crossed and recrossed the Barlow road along the north side of Sandy, as a wagon road at that time had -not been built on the south side of the river. At all these times, wagons had to ford the Sandy at Revenue's, passing around or over as it happened boulders the size of a bucket and much large;, with the current just as swift as it now Is. Up to that time, no bridge had ever been built across that stream. When, in 1S45, Barlow built this road, there was not a bridge across any river on the "old emigrant trail" from the Missouri to the Willamette. Every stream on the road too deep to wade was ferried in wagon boxes. People who could cross the Platte River and the Snake, without bridges, would not halt long on the banks of the Sandy. I cannot say at what time the first bridge was built across this stream, but it was since the Fall of 1S61. The man from Portland who can com fortably trot a team to the foot of Mount Hood in a day should recall that It took the man from Missouri or Iowa a week of heart-breaking toil to make the same distance down to Portland. The man behind "the goggles" will make the trip In fewer hours that the emigrant could In days. We can thus realize that there was a time when the "final dash" tlown the Western slope of the Cascade Moun tains as the wind-up of a sl -months' trip was not exactly a "picnic" affair. If any one of the present generation of Oregonians wishes to impress this ' as an object lesson let him take tiie road at the Summit House, bear to the left, follow the old emigrant road down laurel Hill, examine the deep cuts or grooves around the trees by the road side, cut by ropes used in easing the wagons down the steepest pitches, and then view, as the writer has. the count less tree trunks with branches and bark stripped off which had been dragged down this mile-long hill be hind the wagons to keep them from beating the team down to the bottom. K. C. ROSS. Hyrlrosren ens for ballooning Is obtained by tn e'leetrie process. DON'TBEBALD One of Our. Readers Tells How She Obtained a Marvelous Growth of New Hair by the Use of a Simple Home Rem edy After Hair Spe cialists and Tonics Had All Failed. I had what most people call a heautlful head of golden hair. I prized it most highly, as I considered It my chief attraction. Sud denly it beuan to come out rapidly, and at times I had Intense Itching of the scalp. Physicians and hair specialists said my case was one of dandruff germs, hair mi crobes, etc., but nothing that they gave m did the slightest good. On the contrary, my hair seemed to come out even faster, and I was now fearful lest I should become en tirely bald. In my despair a friend told mo of an Ecuador herb which he said would positively grow hair on any head where the hair roots were not entirely gone, and he Bald the natives of the country where It grew were famous for their beautiful long hair. Upon medical advice I combined this herb .with Bay Rum and Menthol Crystals and Immediately began Its use. Jn three ap plications It entirely stopped the intense itching of my scalp, and In a very short time It not only stopped my falling hair, but I noticed an abundance of new hair coming In. In less than one month my hair was longer, thicker and more beautiful than ever. All due to this marvelous hair growing herb. A lady to whom I gave the formula used It on her daughter, and she says it made her hair grow five inches In less than a month. Boctors to whom I hare shown It say it Is the only thing which will actually grow new hair. Therefore I think the people ought to have it. At first I thought I would keep It & secret and sell the secret; but when I think how I suffered and how badly I needed it, and how hun dreds of others must need it the same as I did. I feel I ought to give It to the world. Therefore I authorize this paper to pub lish the formula, which Is as follows: Bay Rum, 6 oz. ; Lavona de Compose, 3 02., Menthol Crystal. Vi dr.. To-Kalon Perfume, one to two teaspoonf uls. Ask your druggist for an 8-or. bottle con taining 6 os. of Bay Rum. then put in the Menthol Crystals and the Perfume. Next add one-half of the bottle of Lavona d Compose, let It stand six to eight hours and add the remainder of the Lavona tie Com poe. Always buy the I.avona. de Otmnose in a 2-oz sealed bottle, as this preparation contains the juice of the Ecuador herb men tioned above, and it loses its strength If un sealed. - Applv the preparation night and morning and r'lb well into the scalp. If properly usd it will soon produce most astonishing re sult. Be careful not to get It on the fere or any part of the bodjr wbere you do not want to prot1" A-
