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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 22, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, AUGUST 22, 1909 Draped Skirt Popular for Fall ASHION'S Autumn mood plainly ln dicatps a penchant for draped skirts, or trimming arrangements which im- Mtate them. There are a dozen and one suggestions of ye ancient oversklrt of Uln-back period, these being simulated with deep- pointed or round yokes, or else L.i.h kr.irio nl hands which follow the ijlnes of an overdess. Trimmed front and side panels are countless, ana tnere is one Princess design which looks for all' the world like a long-tailed Jersey with a hpleated flounce sewed on the bottom. k . .... M . V, I nnrtlnn nf POWT1A r 1 ne ni di mo -. - o- 1s growing looser, too, and along with the wrapper-like gowns wnicn accentuate this comfortable state of things, there are conventional coats and skirts which so i.. imim thn het traditions of a I iirui i j . (dozen seasons that they cannot help but be a comfort to the many. . The wearers of the medium thing, the style which con forms to common sense and usefulness, are always more numerous than those who . demand the ultra ndVelty. and so, very wisely, shops an private makers 'largely consider them. ' So far there are no marked departures In materials. There are the same smooth elrrths, tlfc plain and ribbed serges, the plain and patterned silk veilings, figured, striped, or showing only their rich reds, deep blues or mellow browns, for Autumn has Its traditions, painting always, what ever else is to appear, the colors of the natural world. In fact, as- far as the Autumn gown goes, the usual rule holds good. Buy colors in sympathy with the season, consider your type with the de sign of the frock and go to work, for faint and doubting heart never yet found a wardrobe prepared for a new season. Hats? "Well, It must be admitted that they are not yet prolific in the matter of good sense, for the choicer models spread wide at the brim and there curl over at some point which demands price for perfection. And with these things and high crowns they also take to feath ery ornamentations of a fly-away sort once compatible with madness. . Upon no bird of earth were these wild feather bunches ever grown that Is, not with their present eccentric points, tints and confusion. iv... . i v. latlnv In vkdnm (Tit ma V Out luuuKii 'r - r ... - -- be a weakness to confess It) I must say say trial tne nam in uii-iii.-:( tlfuL Straws of a satin fineness and richly tinted Panama, together with fancy silk and straw braids, will be used ka firm Autumn h&ts. and it goes without saying that the bulk of the new headgear will still require a careful and generous hair arrangement. By and by it is reported that we are to have some thing; sensible In the way of toques, and for the average head inese iu ne mucn more becoming than the splendid hats now seen. The home sewers, those who must re- (' solve reasonable materials Into" reason able effects, the week's models may be I recommended. Each article displayed I represents a phase of Autumn In its par Eticular line, that all measurements con falder the medium figure. 1 Deaim A. Here is a Princess cos tume much admired and easy to turn out fbv those even only fairly efficient with J the needle. The full length panels give the slenderness still required for artistic results, and the pleated portions of the side allow ease and grace for walking. The gown is especially suited to slim young persons and could be made In a soft wool or silk or in a wash material. In the illustration the gown Is realized in a coarse French linen In dull red with braiding in the same tint, the material and color being eminently suited to Sep tember and October wear. Quantities call for ten yards of linen 54 Inches wide, 7 yards in 32, 5 H yards In 52-Inch width. Denltts. B. This single breasted coat shows one of the most useful garments of Autumn, for while forming part of a- costume. If made of serge or cloth It could also serve as wrap Mr other coa tumeA The lines are extremely smart, the front seams, which run from the shoul der to hem. accomplishing the slight fit needed, while In no wise Interfering with the ease of the coat. The sleeve are In two portions, and tlie pocket3 are put bias to prevent the square-hip look that a straight adjust ment of them would create. Covert cloth, serge, cheviot or broadcloth are all suit able materials for a costume coat or separate one, a pleated skirt with plain front panel or elfe a circular model, going well with either model. The quantity of material required for broadcloth or serge. 44 Inches wide Is three yards. For the shawl collar ehown by the smaller view of the coat yard Making Beauty Creams and THOUGH somewhat of a bother to fab ricate complexion creams and toilet waters at home, the satisfaction of knowing Just what you are using pays for the trouble. The girl who . takes up earnestly the work of the laboratory of loveliness will discover In time, too, that it Is a great saving of money to make her cosmetics herself. There may be some waste and a failure or two at first, so It Is a good Idea to experiment with modest quantities In the beginning, quartering or halving the weight of each thing given In a formula. But proportions must all be properly balanced as there, for too much or too little of one thing may spoil the whole filter or emulsion. Fat is the basis of all cold creams, and It is the nourishment that the cream provides to the skin. To give the creams an attractive appearance and some de gree of body the majority of the formulas with oils Include war and spermacetti; but for especially sensitive skins or those of marked Inactivity, these are not ad vised, as the tendency of such sub stances, which are absolutely harmless to normal skins, is to clog the pores. The method of making all cold creams Is practically the same. The fats- or oils are put In a double boiler bain-marie Is the professional name for this vessel and are gently warmed till they can be smoothly mingled. An earthen bowl placed in a large saucepan of boiling water answers for this creaming purpose if a double boiler Is lacking. But It must ba remembered always that beauty's pots and pans, as you might call them, must never serve at other times for cooking vessels, for the harmlessness of a cos-metk-. depends largely upon cleanliness. The difficult part In the home making of creams for inexperienced persons Is the mixing of the other substances, the perfumed waters or astringent or aro matic tinctures, with the fat. The scented water Is poured in slowly in a fine "xtream at first drop by drop while the mixture is continually beaten up with a silver spoon or fork or egg beater. The extract's or tinctures are added last of all1 In the same way. A simple formula for an excellent cold cream, and one that I have often ad- vised for general use. Is as follows: Rose-water 4 ounces i AiwQaj. oiK. w . v.. q uneeaj : : : l of contrasting material velvet, satin, or taffeta would be needed. Ueala-n -'. Two skirts very typical I ousness. is not suited to any but youth J of the new season are here shown, one admitting a very dressy bodice and the other suiting itself admirably to prac tical shirtwaists. For alf round use, the inexpensive checked wools here used FIGURE A. could be employed to advantage, for such materials are always stylish and ef fective, especially when a checked skirt Is topped by a smart coat in a plain stuff. The skirt with the trimmed front panel could toe made from 9'4 yards of cheviot 24 inches wide, the price of the material not exceeding 30 cents a yard. The yoke skirt, which Is one of the pin-back overdress suggestions, would be Spermacetti 1 ounce "White wax 1 ounce A superb massage emollient for strengthening relaxed tissues, as well as whitening and softening the skin, and which may be used with benefit over the entire body, is made from this: Oil of sweet almonds 3 ounces Oil of bitter almonds 10 grammes Balsam of tolu 2 grammes FIGURE C. Benzoin 2 grammes Essence of lemon...; I drops Essence of cageput 2 drops Powder the resins, put them in the oili and keep at a gentle heat for 24 hours; then add other things according to previous directions. Lanollne Is a most valuable medium for nourishing the skin, but as it Is thought to encourage the growth of superfluous hair, formulas con taining It-are jjot advised for those sUow- most dapper In black and white. Of course, the style, from Its very frivol ful and slim figures. According to the width of the goods, the model would call for S4. 4Vi or 4i yards. . Drslgvn D. Plaid materials are al ways pretty for children, and this little dress gives an excellent Idea for a sensible school frock in any of the I bright enlivening wool and cotton tex tures, which, as ever with Fall, now crowd the counters. For a dark child a Scotch plaid, in which there Is red, white and black, would be very pretty, though a fair child would look better In grayish blues orbrown and white. For a girl of 12 years of age the dress will require 8Vi yards of material 34 Inches wide, and yard of plain, stuff for the band. MARY DEAN. Toilet Waters lng a tendency -toward this unpleasant blight. - There are skins, too, which reject every species of cream, growing hard and leathery or red and pimply under .the best, so let me advise these trying a mixture of one part of pure glycerine to four of rose-water. If this proves too strong, add more rose-water until the glycerine Is sufficiently diluted not to smart. Ther is no more splendid lubricator for- the skin than glycerine, as besides whitening and softening it Is antiseptic in quality, which is certainly something to be de sired In these days of the ubiquitous germ. When Its use is found unsatisfac tory it is generally because it Is applied In too concentrated form. Finally, let me add that the good effects of all skin unguents are only obtained by massaging them well into the pores. Fair woman loves to smell as sweet as she looks, but in making toilet waters their invigorating or astringent qualities should be considered first of all. as It is easy enough to buy sweet-smelling waters of sufficient delight on every counter.. A delicious violet vinegar, which is es pecially adapted to tired skins, the skins wan from late hours in hot. close rooms, or pallid and drawn from any over fatigue is made as below, and a teaspoonful of It In basin of warm water will make an ideal sponge bath for any face on a hot or dusty day: Extract of cassie. No. 2 5 ounces Extract of violet. No. 2 5 ounces Extract of rose. No. 2 5 ounces Tincture of orris root -.5 ounces White wine vinegar pint This must digest for ten days and then be filtered through porous paper; but be sure you get cassie a floral odor and not cassia, which is quite another thing. KATTfERINE MORTON. Peanut Candy. Peanut Candy a la Charleston Mam my. This delectable sweet Is called "ground-nut cake" In Charleston and a fine molasses is used for it instead of sugar. Remove the shells and skins from the roasted peanuts, and if convenience for eating Is liked divide 'each nut in half; but the brittle cske that shows the whole nut is the dearer goody In the Southern citv by the sea. Then put two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter and the Juice of one lemon In a quart of New Orleans molasses and boil it with careful stirring until it threads. Then take the vessel from the fire and dump In the nuts, mixing them well with the mo lasses. When the mixture is chilled enough to permit Its lying fairly well "where it Is put," drop a light table spoonful in divided blobs along a flat buttered tin. The moment for eating the cakes Is when they have become as brittle as glass. Tlie Charleston "mammy" uses a slab of old white marble for the chlll- f Ing purpose, and sells them "six for ft'- cent." looking as it sne naa oeen iu neat as a pin about the business in her stiff purple Calico and red head-hand-cher. and calling out melodiously as she waddles along, "Grounut ca ke. Grou nut ca ke." They are a Winter dainty and things exiled hearts never forget. EARLY FALL HATS THE outlook for the coming season's hats is really hopeful. Think of being ' able to say that they will probably, be becoming to most of us; tbat the woman who wants a simple hat of unexaggerated style will be able to get It. and more than all this, that they will look like real hats, with" normal, well defined brims and crown. ' Shape is always the distinguishing feature of a season's tiats; and it is generally the feature that makes or mars them. A really becoming shape looks well trimmed in almost any way, whereas no amount of ribbon, flowers, or feathers will make an unbecoming shape attractive. Fortunately in shape the early Fall hats are all that could be desired. They are to be' moderately large that is, most of them are and the model so popular in the late Summer, turned up on one side and down on the other, will continue in favor for at least Fall and early Winter. This kind of hat is so generally becoming that everyone will welcome its stay. Other large hats, with only moderate ly high crowns, .are shown with the brims shaped in Irregular undulations or ripples, and these are especially be coming to the piquant lace whose greatest charm is spoiled by the straight line of a perfectly flat brim. Then there are brims that turn slightly downward all the way round. Just enough to make a pretty frame for the hair but not enough to suggest the atro cious "peachbasket, which seems to nave left us- for this season at least. Thero is. in fact, so much variety in the shapes of the early Fall hats that it will really be a woman's own fault if she does not have a hat that she, likes, and at the same time is becoming. Velvet trimming will be as popular this Fall as it has been this Summer. A hat of really graceful design In any soft, rich color the wine-reds so suit able to Fall wear; the - weird, laded green which is so popular in Paris; the warm tans and browns, and the standard' blues and grays cannot be more appropriately trimmed for street use than with a large flat bow of vel vet in a deeper shade or the same tone. Wings and .quills are as popular as ever. They are to be used almost ex clusively, in combination with a band of folded velvet on the small and very smart walking hats for wear with tailored suits. Plumes, or course, will be used for dressy hats. They are so beautiful in color, so graceful In shape, so delicate in texture, and so durable, in spite of the fact that they cannot stand wet weather, that they cannot be supplanted by any other form of trim ming for really elaborate hats. But, of course, in Winter they are quite out of the question for general wear be cause of fog and rain. A soft, long plume wreathed about the crown of a large hat of the same or contrasting color, and set in a sort of ruchlng of pleated tulle" Is the only trimming needed to make a bat so beautiful that everyone will er.vy its wearer. For children the hats will follow the styles of those for their mothers. The hat with the brim turned down all the way around is perhaps tne best choice for the little girl's Fall school hat. Such a hat is easily kept on, and gives the proper protection from wind and rain. A hat of this shape can be trimmed simply with a band of velvet, a bow of ribbon, or a quill. The hat bought early In tne season should always be of simple and unex- aggerated style, for the makers of headgear, like everyone else, sometimes change their minds. Every one pities, and some people sympathize with the woman who is still smilingly wearing the fruit-covered, basket-shaped hat that she proudly and rashly bought early in the Spring. Let her be a warn inB; MARY DEAN. ' The Kiss. Ad1e Durand Holt in Smart Set. Upen. her mouth It lay. Her red lips blushing thro' it. X P"uf and it had Mown awayl l simply had to do it. FIGURE p. . Etiquette TO know all the ins and outs of grace ful letter writing is one of the most delightful gifts which can be bestowed on man or woman. The art sublime to paint our scribbled pages with living thoughts, put down In Just the right word is not given to all; but it is incumbent upon those who aspire to police recognition to cultivate a style of writing which will at FIGURE least indicate good breeding and a fair education. Many an aspirant for a "Job"' has been damned by unformed hand writing alone, and in the frothy and de sirable circle . of society nothing seems more indicative of ignorance. The social or business aspirant, then, must . look first to forming the hand, though what is sauce for the goose is not sauce for the gander in this case. The angular English hand, with letters of absolutely enormous' size, is the one affected by women of smart pretension, but for a man to use this would be thought feminine in the extreme. Mas- Dress Aids in i- T Is hard enousn iur J woman to make her dress stay put I in the Winter time, when she is at home with her own bureau drawers, cup boards, boxes and bags to keep thimjs in. But In Summer it is often harder stil'., for hotel rooms and camping tents do not seem to be especially adapted to keeping clothes in order. However, with, a good supply of little accessories, there Is no excuse for any dress untidiness or lack of neatness on the part of the Sum mer girl, wherever she may be at the seashore, on the farm or in the moun tains. To begin with, have plenty of pins of all' sorts and kinds. There are. such pretty little collar, or baby pins, in gold, silver or enamel, sold at such moderate prices, that every girl should have a number of them In sets, for three or four styles used on one dress do not look at all well. They are invaluable in fas tening collars and cuffs, and if button does come off a frock at the last minute, one of these Is. certainly less conspicuous than an ordinary "tin" pin. To keep the hat securely in place there are pins for all occasions. Real ly for the raffia or duck outing hat, no pin is In better taste than the cheap lit tl pearl-headed pin that costs 10 or IS cents. Fox the elaborate, flower-covered hats the metallic roses are very pretty, although by this time they""have become so common that the very fastidious girl prefers the older gold or silver-headed pine. " .. , .. Belt pins ' are such a boon that ' . seems strange women could ever have got along without them. A ribbon or duck belt thus fastened la much more easily adjusted than a belt fastened with a buckle or clasp, and. therefore, it is more easily kept ship-shape. These pins are , so graceful In form, and are so beautifully chased and engraved, that they are a distinct addition to a cotton or linen suit. . A pretty girl's appearance Is often for the Letter Writer culine handwriting must be without af fectation, with rounded letters and bold shading; and all letters should be free from blots and knife erasures, and show only such punctuation as Is absolutely needed for sense. To get a letter fairly peppered with commas, colons and semi colons Is a positive fatigue to the reader, for the mind halts with every stop and In the end the letter has lost the vigor B. it might otherwise reveal. For ordinary letter and note writing only the comma and period are used, the first marking the pause which would naturally come In with the spoken word, and the last terminating the sentence. Good black ink is essential for all cor respondence, a plain white paper of gooa stvle is required, every "I" must b? properlv dotted, every "t" crossed, words must be properlv- spelled, and all numer als and words written out and not put in numbers or abbreviations. "We caught 3 salmon and Jos." Jo seph, of course "felt so good." etc.. etc.. Holding Yourself Together marred In the Summer by untidy hair, and as an assistance in this direction good, strong hairpins are a necessity. But there are some pins for dressy occasions that are designed more for appearance than for use, although they Ao help hold the coiffure In place. They are made in bone or shell, with square or rounded heads, decorated with very small brilliants- or else with just a tracery of gold or silver filigree. For windy weather veils are indis pensable. The latest and most up-to- is a stupid way to tell of the fishing. The salmon were three In number, and . the possible 'Joseph, In a letter at least, is entitled to all the letters in his fine Biblical name. Also, let me pray you to eschew the lead pencil whose use is so common to persons who have not given much thought to the polite side of mere Im plements; for a letter or a social note written in lead pencil is atrociously bad form. The use of ruled paper shows equal "greenness." and to cross a letter is a crime punishable by the entire ab sence of the 'postman. Who wants to write to a person who habitually criss crosses every other page, when paper is so cheap, eyes so dear, and time the rapid thing it is? For polite correspondence one sort of paper is used, and for business letters especially those of men another. Thu social letter or note is written on thick notepaper of pure or creamy whiteness, square envelopes going with this, in which the double sheet, folded only once, slips with rase. A business letter may be on a single large sheet of paper or on letter paper of sensible size; but though it may be typewritten the signa ture must be put in by hand, and in no case must this civility and business pre caution be omitted. The business letter is also short, respectful and to the point never more than a page, except in very important cases, and preferably far less, snd it begins with the name of the firm to which it is addressed, this being fol lowed by "Dear Sirs"; or "Gentlemen." and with the letter ending "Very truly yours" before the signature. The signature in polite circles Viever shows the prefix of Mr.. Mrs., or Miss, but Is written in thus. "Alice r.. Granger" or "James K. Smith." the address of the correspondent, which is given elsewhere, containing the Mrs., Miss, or Mr. But though it is the proper thing for a man to put Mr. on his visiting card, it Is neither uncommon nor Improper for him to write his address for any and every body without it, though these two littln letters are very significant of soci.il status when they are given as a matter of course with an address. As a de lightful Western story put it of a delight ful person who died in his boots. "When a man signs himself MISTER Bill Brady you know he has been brought up a gen tleman." ' The form of a social note or letter to a person -whose acquaintance requires both formality and graclousness. Is some times a very difficult, thing to the brav est man. thought a 10-year-old girl who is afraid of a mouse may safely crosh the Rubicon. Therefore, let the bashful man begin bv gathering his scattered thoughts to a focus think for a moment, of what he wants to say. Then let him pick up his pen and say It In n simple manly fashion, express himself with the utmost dignity . and courtesy and yet in his own natural ; wav. for. all things said and done. th; . personality of a nice, square, honest man any living vibrant personality is the ' thing which adds value to tlia moment s letter and makes the pile of yellow en velopes in the garret absolutely precious at last. If he were to begin his letter to the kind woman who has asked him to din ner with "I am downright glad you thought of me." Instead of with a mwi I high-flown phrase, though it might not be the choicest English. It would rank him still as a very fine gentleman. The ordinary acceptance of any social invitation would read as follows: JIv Pear Mrs. Granger: I am in receipt of your gracious -Word and will be delighted to come Friday night. Pray give my best regards to Mr. Granger, and believe me cordially, yours. WII-IJAM BRADY. Except in case of warm intimacy, long letters of condolence after a death are not permissible. The acquaintance or av erage friend semis a visiting card only, with the words, "With deepest sympathy, written above the name on the face side of the card. " , For the letters of true friendship and tender kinship, sentiment plays a great part, and a letter .to a dear friend or par ent or brother or sister cannot bo to. fond in its expressions of love or appre ciation. Life is all too short and hard for us to emphasize the burden by a passionless page of hard, cold word. Each human soul needs the sympathy of the brother soul, anv many a ten.ler page from some body heid dear has helped a fainting heart to weather the gales of earth. Abusive language has no place at any time In polite letter writing, and sime the written word is in a way eternal, re member at all times, and to all persons, to put down only the sentiments a person of good breeding and fine feeling would naturally write. Leave the enemy alom; when It comes to the point of the written PHe' " PRUDENCE STAND1SH. date face veils seem to have been de signed without any reference to the com fort of the wearer. They are made In fine or coarse net6. and are practically covered with big chenille dots. Automobile veils seem to be longer than ever, and they are made In every color of the rainbow. The light and delicate shades are especially .attractive when worn with white hats and frocks. New veils are shown in very thin wash silks in all colors, hemstitched at the sides' and ends. These are too heavy to wear over the face, and are generally worn in combination with thin face veils. . icther belts are made in ,very thin kid In bronze and in a deep. soft wine-color. J ney mc i i...... inches wide, and fasten with, square, kid-covered buckles. Raffia belts are still popular, and the girl with clever fingers and plenty of time ought to de vise a way of making pretty belts of this kind herself. A distinct addition to the frock or blouse that has seen wear all Summer are the new net stocks. They are made with high, shaped collars, edged with scant net ruchings at the top and bot tom, finished in front with a Jabot Vi or 14 inches long, laid in fine plaitti. Little silk-covered buttons, or bows or rosettes of ribbon, decorate the Jabot and the collar. Last, but not least, and. indeed, al most first in point of Importance, come the Summer girl's shoes. Plenty of shoe polish is not the only thing needed to keep perfect order among her foot-gear. She must have a good supply of laces and fresh shoe buttons. There are som'j very good laces shown in the late Sum mer low shoes, thinner than the ordi nary ribbon tics, but ribbed lengthwise of the tie and therefore, strong enouah to stand the hardest wear. Narrow silk laces, with blackened tips, are the smart est thing for wear with -patent leather shoes. For pumps the hows are -matin quite Tat. and must be fastened securely to the shoe. " ' ; . r - J
