THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. AUGUST, 1.5, 1909.
6"
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY
Styles for Autum Occasions
WHAT shall the Autumn fashion
harvest be? Shall we come to
the overskirt, the polonaise, the
tight long-waisted bodice and panters?
These are questions over which the
world that makes Its own dresses Is now
cogitating, fearing to cut into the least
bit of stuff lest some mistake be made,
and hearkening all too much to every
passing rumor.
But why court distraction till it comes?
Whv pine for new effects when those on
hand are so ciarmlng? And why does
not the whole race of womankind band
together to form a nnion for the protec
tion of PRETTIXESS?
The present styles enhance the charms
of the sex. Woman la made slim, svelte,
coquettish, mysterious In her best phases
she is a bit of perfect plasUe art. Truth
to tell, it is not our abused sex which
is so variable, -but the fashion mongers,
the machines of commerce, all those. who
toil and spin to reap the golden coin
elsewhere sought, and who know that If
let alone the average woman would be
content to wear a sown for 10 seasons,
as she did in the dear old times.
First Autumn effects, as always, must
be modeled to a great extent after the
fashions of Summer, and quite up to No
' vember. Such Summer (towns as are sult
I able will be worn with smart light
! weight wraps and fresh Autumn hats.
Some walking millinery already seen is
I far smaller than the headgear of the
I past two seasons, and so odcly sharp are
! some of the turned-up fronts and pointed
' wing trimmings that even upon the mil
! liner's sticks they have a rakish, piratical
air. -Ttut these models are only tentative.
1 and for the moot part the hats are im
I ported and so may be excused their
: fllghtiness. for the domestic hat has great
! respect for popular opinion, which ei
' acts more moderation than may be shown
across the water.
With these hats there are shown some
; absolutely new skirts which. likewise,
; seem fantastic to the conservative eye;
they running to trimming effects dimly
i 'reminiscent of the short plnback over
skirt, and the ancient trimmed panel. But
here, there, everywhere. Is seen the Sum
mer darling still, the Empire and prin
cess gown, the loose, sleeveless coat, the
deep peach basket hat with Its load of
fruit or prim knot of posies. The high
waistline bids defiance to the normal one,
and where the walking skirt rows a
little shorter the fine gown still - falls
gracefully about the feet. As to ma-
' terials
There are woolens and satins as sweet
as the sky.
Some plain and some patterned and all
very high;
There are old staffs and new stuffs as
cheap as can be.
So pluck up your courage. Come ladles,
and buy!
Indeed, the woman who Is now planning
to make or purchase her early Fall ward
robe would do well to consider carefully
the four Fall models here Illustrated.
Figure A-r-Thia get-up consists of a
transparent lace coat, lined with thin
; silk and worn over a princess gown. The
stunning coat, which la a model turned
'. out only a week since, will be found a
very convenient and smart feature for
some dressy Autumn gown with sleeves
In Us own material. For a slim young
matron of limited means I would suggest
a gray, wistaria, or soft brown cashmere,
with a fancy silk braid In a matching
tint for the gown, and the coat could be
of the same, or else of a coarse woolen
lace In the gown color.
Well made In any material suitable to
such a smart style, the costume would
do for afternoon receptions, driving, the
theater, concerts, etc. But It Is unsuit
able for shopping or church. A bisque
or biscuit-white cloth would magnificent
ly realise the dress, with a coat In a
heavy matching guipure and band em
broidery for the bands.
For the coat there will be required 4 s-4
yards of material 18 inches wide, or 34
vards 44 Inches wide. The banding calls
for eight yards, and the gown for 61,
yards in double width goods. This la for
the medium figure.
The hat is a late shape In pale cream
felt, with a willow plume In black and
cream and black cherries and velvet rib
bon. Figure B. Here Is one of the Autumn's
new children, but though the dress sug
gosts a one-piece princess effect it Is sep
arated at the waistline. Made, as here,
of some heavy satin foulard in a somber
hue. the dress would be smart and prac
ticable, for while suiting Itself to present
needs, it could be worn with perfect taste
far into the Winter. But a light-weight
cloth could also be used for It as well as
cashmere or any fancy wool on the mar
ket. If a spotted texture is used, the
Msrtling bands here employed might be
of ribbon in the ground tint, sewn with
discs of taffeta or -velvet, though a hand
some silk braid would be equally ef
fective. For the dress entire there will be re
quired by the medium figure 12 yards
of foulard. The banding calls for 64
yank and the lace chemisette for yard
is inches wide, n
The hat Is a shallow peach basket of
tucked taffeta over a buckram frame,
trimmed with bias of black velvet, which
FIGURE fx
slips at the front under roses posed to
form the look of a huge buckle. The
whole tenue of the wearer suggests a
promenade in a fashionable neighbor
hood. Church may be her bourne, and If
so she is very properly gowned.
Design C This pretty little frock will
appeal to th.ose who wish to preserve the
waist-line where Nature has placed it.
There are women who find themselves
wretched In the short-waisted gown, and
they vow that never was a more uncom
fortable style Invented, especially when
FIGURE B.
the skirt Is topped by a hard boned belt
that strives to reach the arm pits. For
Autumn use, any thin wool or silk would
be acceptable for this little frock, all of
whose lines are sweetly girlish. With
the neck cut out and the sleeves made
shorter, and In a Jingerie material such
as mercerized batiste, it would be very
effective over a lawn slip for smart house
wear. Though If some of the trimming
were left off any little simple cotton
frock could be made in the style.
With a 44-lnch material 13 or 13 yards
would be needed for the dress entire for
the medium figure. The trimming consists
of all-over embroidery between lace
Insertions, and the hat !s of dark tan
Beauty's Memorandum Book
66
I
HAVE3 a little memorandum book
In which I Jot down from time to
time the beauty hints that have
been helpful to me, or that I think may
be helpful at some time In the future." So
writes one of my correspondents.
And thereby I came by an idea why
not a beauty memorandum book in every
household? Certainly such a little book
would greatly facilitate the toilet. It would
save countless heartburns, oceans of
worry, and oh, well, it Is such a simple
little thing to have that I can't think of
a single reason why It should not be one
of the cherished toilet possessions of every
woman who takes even the most scatter
ing thoughts of her personal appearance.
That I may possibly be of some assist
ance to any of my readers desirous of
compiling memorandum books of beauty
this week's column, is devoted to a varied
assortment of beauty hints.
First of all since the hair Is woman's
crown of beauty let me begin with the
scalp. There is no more satisfactory un
guent for the scalp than vaseline. Being
very penetrating, it reaches the roots of
the hair, where nourishment is needed,
and If applied sparingly to the scalp alone,
with the tips of the fingers and vigorous
massage. It will not clog the hair. '
Only dry hair will stand the use of any
grease very often, and whenever oil is
constantly employed a weekly shampoo Is
necessary.
A vaseline pomatum which Is very ar
dently praised for Its scalp-nourishing
qualities, ts made as follows:
White vaseline - ounces
Oietor oil R ounces
Oallie acid It drachms
OH of lavender 30 drops
A good shampoo cream can be made
from this:
New England rum... . rl pint
Bay rum t P,nt
Glycerine ounces
Carbonate of potash H ounce
Borax ..... ..H ounce
rough straw trimmed with brown taffeta
ribbon and a bunch of white rosebuds.
Design D. One of the late effects In
trimmed skirts Is here displayed, the two
pieces of the costume effecting a princess
arrangement.
As the model Is so stylish, it should be
kept entirely for the "best frock," the
visiting or reception dress which would
be trimmed of lace and would need to be
charmingly pale. One of the very many
bordered veilings, however, would clever
ly effect It without great expense, with
the striping used for the pleated skirt
flounce, the suspender portion of the
blouse, and the under-arm part of the
sleeves. Embroidered pongee, which can
be had in the Autumn tints would be
more elegant, and the tucked net or lace
used with it might be In the same color.
Again, the skirt would be an excellent
model for an odd garment in cloth, serge
or veiling, with a handsome stitching in
stead of the banding, or it could be
trimmed according to the smaller draw
ing. ' ,
For the skirt alone, for the medium
figure, six yards of material 32 Inches
wide are required.
MART DEAN.
Carbonate of ammonia.... ounce
Dissolve the carbonates and borax In
the pint of rum. put the glycerine In the
hv rum. aitftate till thoroughly Incorpor
ated, and then put all together and shake
welL
A satisfactory curling fluid Is made as
follows:
Tragacanth ounce
Rose-water 1 P'"
OH of almonds drachm
Crush the tragacanth and put In the rose-
water. Stand in a warm place, stirring
from time to time till the gum is swoUen
and softened. Strain twice through
coarse cloth and then a fine one, and fin.
ieh bv adding the almond oil and a little
saffron or carmine to tint.
A weak solution of borax and water ap
plied several times a day with a soft
cloth will much Improve in ume a sain
with a greasy tendency. A red nose re
quires careful dieting and abstinence from
all highly seasoned foods and spirituous
beverages, and both this persecuted mem.
her and cheeks that encourage a bluish
red tinge will be more improved by a
liquid white than a dry face powder.
An Inexpensive liquid white can be made
from 10 cents worth of precipitated chalk
and half a pint of boiling water. Put the
chalk in a wide bowl, pour on a lime
water and stir with a spoon till both are
well mingled. Add the rest of the water
to the naste. also 10 drops or glycerine
and a teaspoonful of perfume, then put
the liquid In a bottle, cork to prevent
evaporation, and shake vigorously Deiore
using. Apply the white with a bit of raw
cotton, and when It has dried on the face,
smooth evenly with a soft rag.
Elbows which cave been Scarified by a
season of net and lace sleeves will need
very careful coddling before they may ap
pear with grace In the ball dresses of
Winter. , One authority advises rubbing
the Joint every night with olive or almond
oil, giving It a good scrub with a stiff
brush and soap and water beforehand. A
careful drying with a soft old doth Is an
lmnortant Doint. but it is while the flesh
Is still warm and the pores open that the
oil Is supplied. In extreme cases of rough,
ness the operation Is helped by an otl
soaked pad which should be bound on at
nlnt. . , '
A flesh brush may also be employed to
advantage on the small eruptions which
sometimes appear on the upper arm and
upon the back between the shoulders. As
lack of circulation is generally the cause
of these, the friction will cause their en
tire disappearance in time and keep the
skin immune from a second crop. The
flesh brush is likewise necessary for re
moving the dead skin from the body, for
If these dry particles are left to smother
the pores the 6kin can never present a
healthy or clean look. Use the brush with
a five minutes' dry rub, and then after
the bath wield it courageously for. a good
five minutes more. '
Feet that suffer and seem to grow a
size or two bigger with warm weather
are greatly helped with a warm sea-salt
bath, and an after rub of alcohol, olive
oil or bay rum. A dust of foot powder.
which is a ooollng commodity to be bought
everywhere now, is excellent after tnls
rub.
An aromatic foot-bath, which any coun
try girl may have for the making (provid
ed she has wisely looked out for the herb
bed in the vegetable garden) is contained
in these eweet and healing things: .
Dried mint -1 ounce
Dried sage -! ounce
Dried angelica 3 ounces
Juniper berries y hi pound
Rosemary leaves 1 pound
This is fine for sensitive feet. But re
member that all footbaths for healing
purposes must last at least 20 minutes.
with the water kept at moderate neat.
kathertnf; morton.
Dinner Menus
for the Week
TUESDAY. .
Scotch brorn.
Fish tlmbales with Macaroni.
Baked stuffed tomatoes.
Cauliflower salad.
Peaches and ctiocolate cake. .
Coffee.
WEDNESDAY.
Cream of cauliflower soup.
Mutton steak. Fried tomatoes.
Potatoes. -Cabsjage.
celery and pepper salad.
Iced lemon pudding.
Coffee. .
THURSDAY.
Broiled Hamburger, Delmontco style..
Potatoes. Fried e:jr plant.
Tomatoes, with celery and olives. Mayonnaise.
Ice cream in cantaloupe
Coffee.
FRIDAT.
Iced bouillon.
Fish or vegetable curry. Rice.
Lettuce with beets, egg and potato salad.
Peach tapioca and cream.
Coffee. . ; .
SATURDAY. , ' '
Stewed beef with green peppers and corn.
Potatoes.
Stuffed cucumber salad.
Green apple pie.
Coffee.
SUNDAY.
Panned chicken. Baked creamed cauliflower
Potatoes. v
Vegetable salad In jelly. Mayonnaise.
Pineapple sherbet. Cup cakes.
Coffee.
MONDAY.
Chicken and rice soup.
Veal chop. Creamed cucumbers.
Hominy.
Cauliflower salad.
Fopovers with blueberries and cream.
Coffee.
Novel Ways to Serve Ices.
Cherry Wreaths. Scald and chill a
quart of milk or cream for the founda
tion. Chop nut meats enough to fill a
cup. Pecans or almonds are best, but
walnuts will do. Cut into very small
pieces two or three dozen juicy, deep-red
cherries, add them to a cupful of sugar, a
tablespoonful of vanilla and a beaten egg,
and pour the whole mixture Into the milk.
Always remeniber in making a fruit cream
that there Is little danger of curdling the
milk if you add the fruit to it. and not it
to the fruit. Even if the cream does
seem to have curdled, don't be alarmed.
It will be smooth and sweet when it is
frozen. Add the chopped nut meats and
freeze. This cream should be served in
sherbert glasses, surrounded by wreaths
of ripe and shining long-stemmed cherries.
Chocolate Ice Cream with Whipped
Cream. This way of serving chocolate
cream Is especially desirable for Summer,
as the whipped cream lightens the choco
late flavor. Melt an ounce of chocolate In
a quarter of a cup of hot water in which
the same amount of sugar has been dis
solved. Stir this over the fire until It Is
smooth, -and add It, with a cupful of
sugar and a good pinch of salt, to a quart
of thin cream which has been scalded
with a two-inch piece of cinnamon bark.
Strain this? mixture, let it cool, add a ta-
FIGURE C.
blespoonful of vanilla extract and freeze.
Pack the cream in a melon mould, and
let it stand for several hours. Turn It on
a large plate and surround it with fluffy
whipped cream, decorated with thin slices
of candied fruit
EtiquetteOdds and Ends of Life
i i
A CERTAIN oid-iasnionea
mistress used to say to the young
girls about to graduate from her
school, when she talked to them every
week about their deportment:
"My dear young ladles, to me It seems
Impossible that a perfect lady should
not know by Instinct that green peas
and mint sauce should be served with
Snrins- lamb. This is not the case, how
ever, with the young ladies .of the pres
FIGURE V-
ent generation. You must be taught
even the most elemental and essential
rules of life."
There are a few persons who do
seem naturally to know just what to
do on every occasion, but thfey are very
few Indeed. Most of us, like the school
girls mentioned, have to be taught.
It Is not In the big things of life
that etiquette troubles us most. If you
were to be presented to royalty you
would go through a regular rehearsal
before the great event took place, and
you would be sure to make a good im
pression at the ceremony itself. But if
vnn were unexDectedly and quite by
accident te meet the Queen of Kng-'S
land on the street, and she were to
speak to you, you would probably f loun
der about in the most awkward fash
ion. How should you address her. you'd
wonder as "Ma'am," as they sometimes
address royal ladles In plays, or as
"Your Royal Highness"? And should
you walk before her backwards, or a
llftle behind her? Or what In the
world should you do?
So It Is In everything. We can be
told beforehand how to behave on any
given occasion; but It Is the unexpect
ed and the unusual things that happen
to us every day of our lives that both
er us In the matter of etiquette.
As one result, such requests as the
following come to me constantly by
mail: "I wish you would tell me some
thing; about the proper way to make
Introductions. I become confused and
nervous when I wish to Introduce two
persons .and think' perhaps you can
help me."
There Is really a very simple way
of remembering the proper way to make
introductions. When the introduction
is between men and women, always
introduce the man to the woman, un
less the man' is old or noted, and the
woman very young. When the Intro
duction is between two men or two
women. Introduce the younger' person
to the older person.
Say, for instance, to a young man:
"Mr. Brown. I want to Introduce yon
to my grandmother; grandmother, this
is Mr. Brown." Or. "Mrs. Taylor, let
me present Mr. Brown." Or, "Mrs. Tay
lor, I want you to meet Miss Harden;
Mollle. this is Mrs. Taylor." Or, again,
"President Taft, this Is my friend Miss
Harden." '
Of course, these rules are not hard
and fast: but if you keep them firmly
In mind, the ceremony of introducing
your friends will be robbed of most of
Its terrors.
Here Is another request, made, of
course, by to. man: "Please tell me with
which hand a man should take off his
hat when greeting ladies, and how
long he should keep It .off?"
Well, Just let this questioner try tak
ing1 It off with the right hand, and
see what happens. He would have to
shake hands with his left hand, or
else refrain from that pleasant and
heart-warming American form of greet-
lng. In France a man, when he meets
women on the street and stops to speak
with - them, remains "decouvre" until
they beg him, with all the fervor of
their French hearts, not to remain
longer with His hat off. But in this
country a man merely takes his hat off
at the time of meeting and at the time
of parting.
This request comes from a girl of
debutante age: "In going up and down
stairs, who should go first, the man or
the woman"? My answer Is merely
so that the man, will be In a position
to render assistance if the woman re
quires it if she trips or stumbles
he follows her going upstairs and pre-
.J crnfno. linWTISULlrS.
Another young girl, who Is to visit
some friends in a town wucin
knows several young men, asks if Bhe
t . v. -I -.air them to Call
may, win, t" k, - j . -- - - --
on her, and accept invitations from
them if they chance to give any i uei
hostess house.
Indeed, it is quite-the thing to ask
your friends to call upon you at the
home of friends you are visiting, pro
viding you first ask permission of your
hostess, and also find out what time
will be most agreeable for her to have
(t,an. .ima Tf for anv reason, she
does not care to meet them, under no
circumstances must you asK insm io
BAA vn at Vi cir- hmiHA-. And. of course.
you must not arrange to see them
elsewhere, for wnen you are accopnuB
any one's hospitality, you are, for the
,1 iutn, a mmhr nt that TV1 I'
ll Oil' S family. Be sure always to ask
your hostess to De present. u nisei
vour friends when they do come to
see you. '
In the matter ol accepting Invita
tions from your own friends when you
are visiting, your hostess convenience
must invariably - be consulted. A very
charming young girl was paying her
first visit to a friend in New York.
Her hostess wanted to give her the
proverbial "good time" that all young
girls crave, and she planned to fill the
two weeks of the girl's stay with, din
ner and theater parties, teas, lunch
eons and automobile trips. The guest
arrived late one afternoon. Shortly af
ter greetings were exchanged she said:
"Now: tonight I've planned to stay
at home and talk with you. But to
morrow the Grays are coming to get
me for dinner and the night, and Bob
Weston wants me Wednesday for the
theater, and there are. quite a few
other things Tve planned. I knew you'd
be .glad enough to get rid of me once
jn a. while, so I Just went ahead and
made arrangements without consulting
you."
The hostess, being much better bred
than her. guest, smiled sweetly and
said she 'was glad. But she spent a
rather uncomfortable fortnight as host
ess, making excuses for the absent
guest of honor, and not knowing from
one day to the next what the latter's
plans were. When at last the young
woman packed -up and went home, the
hostess vowed, with a sigh of sincere
Tellef, never again to ask a young girl
to visit her unless she brought refer
ences from her last hostess vouching
for her knowledge of the common sense
etiquette rules that guests should know
and follow".
But when all Is said and done, a
kind heart and good sense go a long
way towards solving the many little
problems in etiquette that are presented
to us every day. So, when you have
anything to do and do not knov ex
actly how It should be done, just stop
a moment and think. v nat Is the least
conspicuous way of doing It? What is
the way that will hurt no one's feel
ings? And after these two queries have
been attended to, what Is the pleas
antest way for you? If you govern your
actions by the answers to these three
questions, you will not go very far
wrong in regard to the etiquette lot
the odds and ends of life.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
SOME TIMELY
RECIPES
ICES and ice cream are so easily made
nowadays, and so tempting and dell
clous when daintily served, that they
ought to torm a very large proportion
of our Summer desserts. W"hen they
are made of pure milk, cream, sugar
and fruit they are not only unharmtul.
but they are really nourishing and
easily digested. And served with fruit,
as they often ought to be served, they
are especially healthful. But remember
that to be good 'for use, ices and Ice
creams should be made of perfectly
fresh atd pure materials: and to'be ap
petizing, they should be attractively
served.
Peach Baskets Crush a pint of ripe,
pink peaches with a fork, mix them
with a cupful of granulated sugar
more or less, according to the flavor
of the peaches and stand them in a
china bowl in the icebox. When they
are thoroughly chilled add them- to a
quart of cream, milk and cream, or
milk and condensed milk mixed, in the
proportions of a pint of milk to a half
can of condensed milk. Freeze this
cream smooth and hard, and pack. After
It has stood for a couple of hours, serve
in halves of large peaches, freshly
peeled, chilled and lightly sugared.
Orange Ice in Skins Boil for five
minute a pint of water and a cup of
sugar with the yellow part of the rind
chipped from three oranges. Cool this
syrup, add it to the juice of six large,
jiilcy oranges, and strain. Freeze very
hard, stirring only occasionally, and
pack for several hours. In the mean
time, prepare half a dozen orange skins
in the form of- little baskets, with han
dles. These skins can be those of the
oranges used in the ice. for the yellow
part of the skin cut away to form the
baskets will be enough to boil In the
syrup. Chill the skin baskets, line
them with thin little lace paper dollies,
stand them on other paper doilies to
keep them from slipping about the
plates, ami fiil them with the Ice.
Orange Compote Boll a half pound
of granulated sugar with just a little
water for five minutes. Cool the syrup
and add the juice of a quarter of a
lemon and the meaty part of four or
five oranges," carefully separated from
all skin and' segment, and broken lnt
small pieces.
Iced Rice Padding. Boil and drain a
half cup of rice, rub it through a sieve,
and put it, a pint of milk and two
cups of sugar beaten with the yolks of
six eggs in a farina boiler. Cook for
a couple of minutes,' until it begins to
thicken. Take from fire, add a tea
spoonful of vanilla, cool and freeze.
When it Is frozen, stir in a quart of
cream, whipped, put the pudding In
Individual molds, pack and stand aside
for a couple of hours.
- Queen Pudding Line a melon mold
about two inches deep with vanlla ice
cream. Have ready about a pint of thor
oughly chilled fruit peaches, apricots,
cherries or berries fill them into the cen
ter of the mold, cover them -with lea
cream, and put on the cover of the mold.
Pack and stand aside for two hours.
Serve with grated macaroons sprinkled!
on top.
For stout folks and other
sufferers from heat rashes,
chafings, summer eczemas,
itchings and irritations is
found in warm baths with
Cuticura Soap and soothing
applications of Cuticura
Ointment. These pure,
sweet and gentle emollients
have no rivals worth men
tioning for preserving, puri
fying, and beautifying the
skin, scalp, hair and hands of
infants, children and adults.
Bold threushmrt tbe work!. T?: JfSHi
d-Anon; Australia. R. Towns A Co., Byemrr. '""'
B. K- Paul. Clrutt:lni. HonfKontDru CJ.
tau, Miniyaitd.. Tok.o: Russia . err-ln 0 MMe
ivl 6o Africa. Lennoa. Ltd.. Cape 10Tn
!'' u I A?it"rbnis Chem. Corp- Sole
ProT"..'l3iColuKb'U Ave., Norton.
J post-free, ootlrnr Book, an UTtbottty )
ticiJeTidTres.tment of 8sm slid Half.
(MM
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