THE SUXDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 1, 1909.
SKYSCRAPERS AND BUSHEL BASKETS
STILL TO PREVAIL IN THE FALL HATS
No Noticeable Diminution in Size of Models Prom Paris Now Being Shown Many Novel Effects in Colorings and
Trimmings Will Be in Evidence.
' ' ' -
THAT sll-ahsorbing question of Uie
moment to the feminine -world
what will be the trend of the Fall
styles In tnllllnery after much uncertain
ty and many conflicting advance reports.
Is about to be authentically answered.
Local wholesale millinery concerns have
come forward with, actual proof. In the
convincing form of the real Fall models,
and are making displays exclusively to
the retail dealers, of the leading types of
hat that will top the feminlnetresses
with the opening of the Fall season.
"And. contrary to the general Impres
sion." said the manager of one of the big
wholesale houses the other day, 'the new
hats will not be diminutive affairs, but
win be very, large, some of them huge.
We have heard all manner of rumors as
to what Paris and other continental cen
ters of fashion have been preparing for
us tn the way of Hall millinery, and the
report that the new styles would be ex
ceedingly small and simple In design has
been persistent But these models are
straight from Paris, coming to us with
the Parisian guarantee of the advance
fashion, and there is nothing noticeably
diminutive about any of them, as you
msv see for yourself."
The nimble pencil of The Oregontan's
fashion artist was put to work, sketch
ing a number of the typical models, and
the exaitt reproduction Is given In the
accompanying pictures.
One of the striking changes in shspe
will be the upward flare of brim at the
left side, and the downward turn at the
right, ss shown In the buckram models
sketched in No. S and No. 7. This rather
rakish, but exceedingly smart and be
coming, model is scheduled as one of
the "leaders" In Fall millinery styles.
The 'Inverted punchbowl" and "peach
basket" shapes will be banished alto
gether, according to the advance tips,
and the very nearest approach to any
thing In the down-turned brim that will
be seen Is suggested in the smart Paris
ian model sketched in No. . This hat is
a striking combination of black velvet
with white leather, and drapery of mous
seline de sole. The under side of the flar
ing brim and the silken binding is In black,
the upper side of the brim and the crown
being of the white leather. The drape
shows one of the new features of trim
ming, the "rainbow' effect, the folds of
the soft drapery being in different deli
cate colors, among which are Included
the popular taupe shade, reseda, tur
quoise, pink, blue, la-ender, cream, corn
color and gold. Sweeping backward from
th central loop of the "rainbow" drape
are the new "mottled whip" feathers,
mere tip ends of feathers on long, bend
ing stems, in smoke gray.
Among the tailored models a leading
type Is shown in No. S, which is of black
moire,' the shape being covered with this
Bllken texture, with trimmings of silk
cord, and two long, smart black feathers.
The black silk cord is used as & binding
about the brim of the hat, and a wired
silk cord encircles the brim on Its lower
side, near the hair. The two medallions
are of silk braid, and the drape, graceful
ly curving over the crown towards the
back, is of the moire. The prevailing
broad front effect of the new hats la
demonstrated In this hat, and also in the
chic affair In brown and heliotrope
sketched In No. 6. The latter model is
of brown velvet, with a roll upward at
the left side and downward on the right.
The soft crush drape Is of heliotrope
sntln. The wing, which sweeps across the
whole front of the hat, is In the same
delicate tone, blending in striking effect
with the brown of the brim and crown.
Among the most beautiful of the new
showings is the picture model of black
velvet, with great white willow plumes,
shown in No. 8. A striking bit of color Is
afforded by the chin strap and' streamers
of cherry-colored velvet.
An exceedingly dainty and girlish effect
Is that of the graceful llttld model in tur
quoise and gray, the two side views of
which are shown in No. 1 and No. 2. The
brim and crown -are In turquoise velvet,
and the crushed sash and plumes are in
deep gray, the Jeweled buckle at the left
side of the sash reflecting the turquoise
lights against the silver. This little model
has a decided roll upward from the face
at the left side and front, and dips down
smartly at the back.
The bands of the new hats will resem
ble the piece of tin that encircles a stove
pipe hole, this being necessary to give the
large hats a proper foundation upon the
elaborate coiffure, which Is scheduled to
prevail through the Winter.
One of the new millinery shades will
be the bois joli, or "pretty wood" color,
in golden brown tones. Taupe and cataw.
ba will continue In popularity, and emer
ald green will be much used In combina
tion with other tones. There will be no
trimming on the brims of the new hats,
and the crowns will be the same size at
the top as at the bottom. In the leading
models. The Turkish turoan styles will
be popular, as well as the Turkish blends
of color in drapes and trimming, this be
ing fashion's tribute to the interesting
agitation in the realm of the Sultan,
which has recently drawn the attention
of the world in that direction.
Artistic Little Two-Story Bungalow at Small Cost
BY THE BUXGATLOW CRAFT CO, 408 CHAMBER OP COMMERCE. LOS AXGELES, CAL.
"
THJ9 attractive home has been re
cently built near Los Angeles with
out cellar or heating plant for J2160
and In Oregon with cellar under entire
house and a hot air furnace for
The itemized cost of construction In Ore
gon Is reported as follows: Excavation
and stone work. JTS: mlU work. HOO; car.
penter work. 2S: brick work, BOO; plas-
' tering. etc.. i.o; inwiuub
r i..mKin,. ii!G- limber. H3: cement work.
3S: hardware. ; root. iw. iui, .
The exterior Is of rough weatherboard
' Ing stained, the brick work of the porch
nrf ex nosed chimney is of hard dark red
brick pointed with black mortar, the roof
is shingled and stained- ins uvni pore"
Is well protected from sun or rain and is
commodious. It opens into a handsome
reception hall, from which open the living-room
with its broad cheery fireplace,
the dining-room with paneled wainscoting
and high plate shelf, the kitchen with its
cupboards, closets, cooler, bins, etc (not
all shown on the small floor plan) and the
stairs both up and down. When ordering
the plans and specifications (which cost
tun it should be stated whether or not a
cellar and furnace Is wanted.
On the second floor we have four good
bedrooms with ample closets and a dainty
bathroom and the entire arrangement
shows not a foot of waste room. If not
required for a bedroom the front room
with Its alcove will make a charming den
or study or sewing room. Although the
house is only about SS feet front by about
SC feet deep, the rooms are all of good
slas and there Is a fin atmosphere of
roominess about It.
There is an abundance of windows and
the entire house is bright and well ven
tilated. The ceilings are 9 feet high on
the first floor and 8 feet S inches on the
eond. The living-room and reception
hail may have oak floors and the stairs
and landing are of oak. As built, the
Interior trim downstairs Is of Oregon
JL I U sm'wuM I BSM I
handsome buttressed opening with drop
beam, giving a charming; effect, from the
front door especially.
Any information regarding bungalow or
cottage building in its latest development
will be furnished upon request by the
Bungalowcraft Company, 403 Chamber of
Commerce, Los Angeles, Cat., without
charge.
DR. ELIOT'S FAULTY LIST
Why Did He Omit French Masters,
Especially Moliere?
PORTLAND, July 27. (To the Edi
tor.) When Dr. Eliot undertook to se
lect his five-foot shelf for books It was
well predicted that it would create
much dissatisfaction; and since its an
nouncement so many criticisms have
been offered that, were these lines in
tended as criticism, they would never
have been written.
The object of this letter Is to call at
tention to the failure of the selection
to fulfill Its proposed end, in at least
one respect. The purpose of the selec
tion was to provide a list of books the
reading of which would give to any
English-speaking person a "good gen
eral education."
The words "general education" are
not, for the purpose of the selection,
to be understood in their broadest sense.
The list does not contain many books
on philosophy, ethics, Spinoza, Kant,
Hegel are omitted); nor does it contain
a short history of philosophy, nor any
work on political and social science, ex
cept Smith's "Wealth of Nations." These
omissions can be explained only when
we interpret "general education" as
meaning; especially "literary educa
tion." This being the chief purpose of the
selection, and It being Intended for
English-speaking people only, it neces
sarily follows that preference will be
given to works portraying Anglo
Saxon characters and Ideals, and only
a secondary place to ancient classics
and to masterpieces of modern lan
guages other than our own.
But. while the selection contains at
least one German classic, and one Ital
ian, there Is not one French writer that
Dr. Eliot has deemed worthy of a place
upon his shelf. We may excuse the
omission of Ibsen and Maeterlinck, but
is there not one volume In modern
French literature or in the French lit
erature of the Renaissance that de
serves a place upon the shelf, beside
the biography of St. Augustine and
"The Arabian Nights"? .
Is there not one book Ih French lit
erature that Is Just as indispensable
to a general literary education as the
autobiography of Franklin?
We may excuse the omission of Ra
cine and his "Britannicus and Phedre";
or of Corneille and his "Old"; or of Cha
teaubriand and his "Atala"; or of Buf
fon and his Inimitable descriptions of
animals; or of Satntebeuve and his
"Causerles du Lundl"; or of La Bruy
ere's "Caracteres."
We may likewise excuse the omission
of Hugo, or of Anatole Franceand his
sublime "Cranquebille," or of Bourget.
or of Pierre Lotl (although some chap
ters in his "Pecheurs d'Islande" are
pronounced by critics to be without
equal In modern prose). But there Ms
one author that should have been given
a place of honor on the shelf, Und the
omission of whose name is Inexcusable.
I refer to Moliere. If no general lit
erary education can be said to be com
plete without Shakespeare, such an ed-
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ucatlon cannot be complete without
Moliere; the more se as Holiere's char
acters have more universality than
Shakespeare's.
There are few. If any, of Mollere's
characters that would lose their charm
and power if we were to name them
John Smith and Yankee Doodle in
stead of SR-anarel and Don Juan. etc.
Without making any disparaging com
parisons, I claim that, besides their be
ing ' equal in literary skill to Shakes
peare, Mollere's characters, on account
of their universality, have a better and
more wholesome influence than their
kindred characters in Shakespeare.
Shakespeare's Shylock, for instance, is
not as powerful In depicting human de
pravity as Mollere's Avare. Shylock's
desire for revenge- and his appetite for
gold are simply the desire for revenge
and the appetite for gold that Bhakes-
peare attributes to the Jew, while in
Mollere's Avare we have the trasl-com-edy
of human avarice, stripped of its
racial garb. It is for this reason, if not
for any other, that It Inspires us with
higher and nobler Ideals.
The great monologue in T Avare,"
where the miser is almost crazed by the
disappearance of his sack; where be ac
cuses all persons and objects surround
ing him of the theft; where in his great
grief he tears his clothes, strikes his
arms, accusing his limbs of the theft,
imploring that the money be returned
to him, is inimitable for literary skill,
power and effect, being, as I believe, far
superior to the scene in "The Merchant
of Venice" where Shylock is ready to
take his pound of flesh. There we have
the tragedy and comedy of human pas
sion in its climax, and If the purpose of
art be to give mental recreation, to de
velop the imagination and to' arouse
and inspire high ideals, this purpose
is attained in Moliere.
I do not purpose to criticise Dr. Eliot,
lest somebody should remind me that
"La critique est aisee, mais l'art est
difficile": nor do I purpose to vindicate
French Uterature In general or Moli
ere In particular, no such vindication
being necessary. I only wish to show
that any selection of books destined for
general education is as incomplete
without Moliere as it would be without
Shakespeare. Dr. Eliot omitted Shakes
peare because he was certain that in
every house there Is a copy of his
works; but this not being true of Mo
liere and since we must concede that
Dr. Eliot has read Moliere and puts him
among the Immortals, how shall be ex
plain his omission? Chi lo sa?
LEON TANCKWICH.
THREE OREGON SISTERS WIN PRIZES
Elmina, Elizabeth and May Kelly, of Oregon City, in a New York Herald Short-Story Contest, Achieve Literary
, Honors and Obtain Special Mention.
I '
nin? stained and finished in shellac and throughout are of plaster with rough car-
either varnish or wax except "the kltohen, pet float finish and tinted.
whirh is painted. Upstairs the entire The connection between the reception
finish Is wfiite enamel. The walls hall and the dining-room is through a
WELL. Oregon has come to the
front again, and we, the good,
law-abiding citizens thereof, are
not one whit surprised.
No, we are getting used to having our
great state head the list in lumber and
flour shipments: we smile blandly when
tourists tell us that our beautiful metrop
olis is absolutely unique In its setting,
and that from no other city in the world
can such a wonderful view be had of its
mighty snow peaks, rushing rivers, and
grand mountain ranges. Oregon prunes
are equal to anything feudal France ever
thought of turning out In the markets
of the world, and our crimson-cheeked
apples bob up serenely In Vladivostok
and the uttermost parts of the earth.
Southern Oregon raises onions the size
of a modest man's head. And now, it
develops that a family tree In Oregon
City has produced a cluster of prize
winners which has made little old New
York sit up and take notice.
How chances It that Or-e-eron ac
cent on the last syllable; they all call
It Or-e-Kfm back there rushes from
no one knows where into the literary
arena of the cultivated East and pre
sumes to compete in a short story con
test conducted by the New York Herald?
Or-e-gon, Which certainly, yes, I'm sure
It belongs to the United States, must be
somewhere near Honolulu, wherever that
is; you know we passed it that time we
went to Japan Or-e-gon, where salmon,
siwashes, land-sharks, and Statement No.
1 politicians grow in the tall timber and
hear no sounds save their own dashlngs
Or-e-gon to aspire for literary laurels!
Prolixity, however, sometimes ceases to
be a virtue: ergo, I will now quote from
the New York Herald of July 25, which
devotes a whole page to the outcome of
their short story competition which has
been carried on since January 1:
"One of the surprises of the contest
might be called the Kelly sisters' epi
sode. On May 9 there was published in
our contest a story called The Mystery
Lady, by a writer from Oregon City
using a pen-name. Investigation proved
that airs. Elmina Kelly, a young
woman living there, had used the (pseudo
nym, and the fact was duly announced
to Herald readers. On May 23 there
came out In the schoolteachers' contest a
Btory called "The Boiling Point," which
was frankly signed Miss Elizabeth Kelly.
Similar Investigation proved that she
was a sister oi miss lurmina iveuy ana a
schoolteacher in Oregon City. Hard
upon this discovery the committee
learned that a story which was pub
lished in the schoolteachers' contest on
May 30. "Her Brave Buckayro," was
written by still another sister. Miss May
-Kelly, of Portland, Or., a teacher lnr the
first grade In a school situated In the
foreign quarter In that city. Thus this
remarkably talented family had produced
three successful candidates, whose work
bad been selected for the final competi
tion by the committee on short stories.
No one could have been more surprised
than the committee members themselves
at this outcome of their decision."
,
The fact that this trio of sisters should
write suooessful stories for the same
contest has been much commented upon
by the Herald from time to time. This
great metropolitan daily has been much
Interested in the lucky "three," and ex
ploited their success frequently since the
publication of their stories.
In looking over last Sunday's Herald,
ft Is seen that Oregon, as usual, bears the
brunt for the Pacific Coast when there's
anything doing. Idaho, Nevada and our
sister state on the north are not repre
sented in the contest. California had
two prize winners, one from Palo Alto
end one from Los Angeles, while old
Oregon struck the gong four times one
for H. M. Sheridan, of Baker City, and
three times for the Three Sisters of Ore
gon City, all four stories as It happened,
being published during the month of
May.
Two of the three embryo Charlotte
Brontes are away on their Summer vaca
tions, and the third didn't enjoy a bit
being Interviewed.
Yes, she was glad her story had been
accepted, and It was certainly very ex
citing when first one and then another
would get a long distance call from ths
Herald correspondent In Portland, an
nouncing that her story bad been chosen.
No. she had never thought before of
writing stories, but seeing that the Her
ald's offer was to amateurs, concluded
she'd try.
Yes, It was the first story each sister
had had printed, and when the Herald
came it was great fun to see how they
had Illustrated the story, and what they
said about us.
Well, each one Just wrote a story about
what she liked best, maybe that's why
they were accepted.
One story had canoeing for the motif,
another was about horseback riding, and
the plot of the third hinged on a certain
dress worn by the heroine.
"Oh, no, .we never could get any of
the grand prizes." said Miss Kelly. (The
first prize, by the way, is 12000.) "You
see some of the writers have had
good many other stories printed before
and are quite well known, besides the
voting is done -by the Herald readers,.
who cut out a coupon from the paper
every day and send it in for the story
they like best. And, of course, there's
lots of trading done. Why, we got
stacks of letters from contestants In
the East as soon as our stories ap
peared who wanted to trade or even sell
coupons to us. And I suppose they
thought Oregon was about a mile away.
for they'd send a package of coupons
from New York on Monday, saying if
we'd hurry and .fill them In they would
reach the Herald office by Wednesday,
when our contest closed.'
"Yes, some of the letters were from
delightful people who were utter
strangers of course, but worked hard
to get votes for us, when they realized
how far away we. were from the scene
of action. '
"Yes, a Mr. Gardner, of Baldwinsville,
N. Y-, was especially kind and sent us
all extra copies of our stories besides
sending In votes for us directly to the
Herald, and that means a great deal of
work, for each coupon had to. be filled
In with name of story and author both.
And we found out that New York City
was districted off by some of the con
testants, so that no copy of the Herald
could escape them, and some would
meet different trains and go through
and pick up Heralds that had been
thrown away and cut out the coupons,
and aU the. big office buildings were
watched in the same way."
Five thousand manuscripts were sent
in to the Herald office during this
contest, and a picture In the Sunday
Herald shows a window on the Broad
way side of their building which dis
plays more than 2,000,000 couponi sent
In for the stories, which gives a alight.
shivering Idea of the fun somebody in
that office is going to have counting up
the votes for the grand prizes which
are to be announced August. 22.
But even though no grand prize
crosses the Bocky Mountains, we of
Oregon have shown them what we can
do when we want to, whether sending
a battleship around the world in record
time, or merely dashing off a prize
story or two some morning when we
haven't anything else to do.
Vive . toujours the three sisters of
Oregon City H. L.
Manchuria has a great advantage ovr
most other agricultural regions in that the
poy bean can be grown moat successfully
throughout the entire region, from Danly in
the south to Harbin In the north.
Don't cross tracks without looking
both ways for approaching cars.
Don't get caught in the narrow
space between two tracks when cars
are passing.
Don't fail, when leaving a car, to
.look up and down the street for an
approaching automobile or other
vehicle which may run you down.
Don't jump on or off a car while it
is in motion. ,
Don't ride on car steps.
Don't get off facing rear of the car.
Don't cross track after leaving the
car, without looking for a car or
vehicle which may be approaching
from another direction.
Don't run after a car and jump on
while it is moving.
Don't attempt to cross track ahead
of a moving car.
Don't let your children play near
streetcar tracks.
PORTLAND RAILWAY,
" LIGHT & POWER CO.