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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 25, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OREGOMAX. PORTLAD. JULY 25, 1909. 4 Now Comes Call for Dainty Gowns and Coats of Shower-proof Foulard Newest Modes Lend Themselves Easily to Striking Colors, and Yet Equally Attractive Effects Are Secured Through Pleasing Blends of Subdued and Delicate Tones Latest Styles Illustrated. SWHKPIXO popularity is predicted for the graceful, dainty gowns and coat stilts of shower-proof foulard, which material la Just now being shown, at the local shops. In such a distracting variety of pleasing blends In delicate tones, or striking combinations of the richer colors. With the creamy touches of heavy lace, which so charmingly finish the foulard costume, nothing could be more attrac tive or more, thoroughly faminlne than the smart gown or coat suit of this dainty, clinging texture, which is called "shower-proof." not because It resists the penetration of water or rain, but for the reason that, tinlike the silken fabrics, it Is not spotted or spoiled, nor Its fresh ness ruined, by the unexpected wettings which are so frequently features of gar den parties and other al fresco affairs of Summer. Such a Graceful Thine. With all the dressy sheen of silk and the softer satins, the shower-proof fou lard is even more gracefully clinging, the ideal material for out-of-door frocks, and at the same time a dainty and essentially feminine material for indoor gowns, lend ing itself effectively to the most elaborate I Car Employes Want to Share Profits Effect of Municipal Interest in Chicago Lines Cost of Living Climbs Crane Thoroughly Knows Orient Sad Fate of Mate of Preacher's Daughter. ST JONATHAN" TALMER. CHICAGO. July 24. (Special.) Chicago may or may not have one of the most palsying strikes In Its history after August L Thirteen thousand street car employes want an Increase of about 11 per cent In wages. They have made formal demand for It. It Is the optimistic report of the unions that everybody In the street-car traffic business will stand together In this matter surface lines and el-vated lines. If that be true and a t-lke come, there will be some early morning rising to reach down-town of fices and stores. The employee are encouraged by the experiences of the street-car men In Phil adelphia and Pittsburg. They have per suaded themselves that, rather than tie tip the commerce and business of Chicago, tlie companies will yield and grant 30 cents an hour Instead of the 27 which they now obtain. Neither side wants a tiicht and the city hopes that outcome will be averted. Something new in the way of argument l.fti been placed In the hands of the em ployes. According to the terms of settle ment of the traction question between the i ity and the companies. Chicago gets 55 per cent of the net receipts accruing from traffic Something like $l.fi"0.( a year is tse amount that goes into the city treasury. The employes think they ought to have some of that money and they are rolng after It. hence the city has a proprietary Interest In a strike or peace outcome- The increase asked for will add to the total pay-roll of the companies affected, probably upwards of $l.0O.- This diversion cf some of the profits ..f street-car operation will mean the cut ting off of a large slice of the city's revenues. To this the employes answer tiiat fhe bis Increase in business In X ':rm v designs, and giving graceful charm to the sweeping lengths of the simpler styles of the mode. The first sketch shows a smart striped silk foulard, finished effectively with suit novelty braid. Oddly-shaped panels are set In on the sides of the skirt and at the back. The silk braid encircles the collar, gives a smart touch at the shoulders, and appears again at the bust line. This is one of the smart new semi-Princess models, showing the distinctive draped surplice carried very low, yet escaping the waist line. The stripes, which are of a changeable yellow tone against a changeable dark blue ground, are used effectively In the design. They meet slantwise In the skirt and encircle the arm. In the three-quarter length sketches at the top are sttawn three pretty little fou lard frocks. "The first is In the dainty crushed-strawberry tone, with translucent buttons and piping to match. The second Is of the modish rose color, strikingly combined with borderings of black satin and biscuit-colored net. The long Prncess panel down the front is worked out in rose and black silk braid. The third is of a Havana brown pat tern, with pipings of black satin. In this frock the returning waist line Is quite daringly revived, as Is also the hip yoke recent months and a still larger Increase to come will Just about hold the city's share Intact. Fundamentally, the em ployes say they should have an advance In wages because the cost of living has gone up. Higher Cost of Living. This higher cost of living is a very real thing, as grocery, meat-shop and other bills show. Best data obtainable demon strate there has been a rise of one-half of 1 per cent for July over June, of 2 per cent over January and of 7.9 per cent' over July 1 a year ago. The price Index is still pointing upward and the unwelcome promise Is being held out by merchants that it wiU alTect clothing as well as table foods. With the single exception of July 1. 1907. the data now recorded are the high est ever sef down for this period of the year. Among the articles affected are breadstuffs. provisions, fruits, hides and leather, textiles, oils, building materials and live stock. Popular Interest Is widest In the bread stuffs because these affect every family directly. Sharply Increasing in price in the year ending are flour, hogs, mutton, bacon, smoked hams. lard, butter, coffee, tea. beans. Decreases are found in po tatoes, peas, domestic salt, granulated sugar and beef carcasses. In the season of plenty some of the vegetables are com paratively cheap, but fhe saving here is more than offset by the general upward trend. Crane) Knows Orient Well. Charles R. Crane, the newly appolntej minister to Chins, is a conspicuous ex ample of the modern man of wealth who substituted what he could learn from books and ,fmm extensive travel for a formal education In n insttution of learning. Richard T. Crane, father of with the f skirt attached that one hears rumors of from the centers of fash Ions abroad. The first of the lower models Is a charming foulard Princess-model In pale blue, with mock reveres of dark blue satin Jeweled In tiny gold spangles and a cream-toned gimp or rich lace Jeweled In blue and gold spangles. The second model Is of a Copenhagen blue blended pattern, with pipings of black satin, panellings of black silk braid and buttons of cut Jet. This Is an ex tremely smart and rich effect. The third model Is In a rich brown foulard, with panelings and empire drape worked out in brown silk braid, and a gimp of fine brown net. I-rfirge polka dots In a deep cream tone give a smart touch of contrast to the otherwise all brown effect. Many charming combinations of foulard and Oriental nets are noted In the show ings of the exclusive local outfitting es tablishments. Particularly effective are the, Oriental nets of square mesh, em broidered or Jeweled in greens or red and gold. These nets are used princi pally for gimps and sleeves and for Inset panellings. The modish catawba shade, with tracings or scrolls of black, is among the most popular of the foulard offer Ings. the appointee and founder of Crane & Co.. which employs 6000 men, spends most of his spare time writing excoriations of the modern methods of education in the universities of the country. He believes these Institutions are a "tittle worse than useless in that they do not properly fit men for the practical tasks of life. Whether Charles R. Crane personal ly espoused this idea of his father or not. It Is true that his formal educa tion ended with the public schools. Happliy he had keen powers of obser vation, a hungry desire to learn of things and peopies by seeing them at close range and the money necessary to take him to them. Thereby he gath ered a fund of information rarely ac quired even In these days of globe-trotting. He has given particular attention to things Oriental, foraging to unfre quented provinces In Russia and China, mingling with all grades of Oriental society and making profound study of what he observed. Mr. Crane's appointment ought to be of particular interest to the people of the Pacific Coast. He Is thoroughly In sympathy with the movement to make a large place for American goods In the Chinese market. He is a hard headed business man to whom prac tical things appeal more strongly than the niceties of diplomacy, but he also is a man of tact and poise who probably can be depended on to meet any emer gency in his posC Methods of Book Swindlers. Since the defrauding of Mrs. Janjes A. ratten out of a big sum for "de luxe" books, some interesting light has been thrown upon the ways of the plot ters and the harvest of gold they garner. Among the women of wealth who. have fallen prey to the allure- meats of "de luxe" editions are Mrs. Mary J. Merinod, of St. Louis; Mrs. J. R. Hoxie and Mrs. W. F. Wolfner, of Chicago; Mrs. A. I. Fort, of Lacon, 111, and Mrs. Isaac L. Elwood. of De Kalb. III. As Indicating the enormous percentage of profit. It Is said that an edition of Dickens In SO volumes was purchased for $150 a set, was recon structed and put on sale at the tidy sum of 1 25,000 or as much thereof as the expert salesman could get. In the Dickens" de lure case the 30 books were taken apart and rebound into w volumes. quint) kulci win ml. " were added, as well as a few copies of original letters from Dickens. The re modeling probably brought the cost of each set up to $500. That left consider able leeway for profit on a $15,000 sale. A few sets of the Holloway edition of Shakespeare were cleverly doctored, the SO volumes being made Into 40, whicb were illuminated. In colors. For the original flyleaf another was put In, giving an Im pression that the books were from the private library of Sir Henry Irving. For her set Mrs. Patten, wife of the wheat king, paid $22,000. Mrs. Hoxie - Is said to have argued the agent down to $19,000. The actual cost of each set to the venders Is estimated at $750. One wealthy woman was persuaded to pay $12,000 for a "Life of Napoleon," on the representation of the salesman that the Mayor and city officials were very anxious to have a oopy for the city li brary, but had not the funds with which to buy It. The set now reposes In a glass case, a "white elephant" on the hands of the librarian. Gift for Police on Fourth. How three Chicago policemen profited ty the "safe and sane Fourth" Is told In a letter to a local paper. A poor Ger man woman who earns her living at the washtub since the death of her husband, has a 16-year-old son of good habits, employed In a suburb at $3 a week and board. . The boy- came Into the city to pass the holiday. Ignorant of the "safe and sane" ordinances, he brought forth a revolver belonging to his brother-ln-law and discharged It once in celebratior. The lad was arrested and taken to a police station. A hearing was set for the next day. It was his first offense, and both the boy and his mother were greatly frightened. The next day three policemen met the boy and a relative and told them the case ought to be taken to "a higher court." With that the boy became erased with fear. The policemen then, according to the letter, said If they were paid $6 each the case would not be taken up. The money was paid. The boy was fined $5 and costs. He also was ooliged to pay $10 to a lawyer who had volunteered his services. Altogether the price of the boy's one shot was $36. A brother-in-law paid It for him, and now the hard-working mother Is wearing out her hands try ing to pay back the money. She makes $2 a day at best, hence it' will "take a week of work at the tub to settle for the "melon" cut by the guardians of the law. The man who writes the letter ventures to express the view that the policemen had no right to take the money. And as there are no protesting voices the motion seems to be carried unanimously. Says Christ Will Go to Chicago. William T. Stead, the famous London editor and publicist, once wrote a book called "If Christ Came to Chicago." What he said was not complimentary to the town, nor was It wide of the truth. He will have a chance at a companion book or "follow-up" If the leaders of the Union Bible Class are right In their prophecies. They have read their Bibles in a way that convinces them Christ will be In Chicago within 1200 days. H. L. Burnett, leader of the class, has discovered from scriptural passages that Christ will come "440 years before the day of Jehovah" and that "he Is to reign as high priest for 434 years before the coming of Jehovah, the Father." With these figures as a basis he makes the cajculation that the appearance In the flesh" must take place within three years. The followers of Burnette are former ad herents of the falthof John Alexander Dowle. Dosed With Too Much Religion. Unique among the picturesque court documents which tell of domestic unhap piness among the husbands and wives of Chicago is the bill which James Phillips wrote for himself In a case In which he seeks $5000 from Rev. T. F. Dornblaser, pastor of Grace Evangelical Lutheran Church, for alienation cf ,v- "Sections of his wife, the latter being a daughter Mollle K. Adams. NEW YORK, July 24. (Spe cial.) Mollle K. Adams has won this year the Women's MassachuV setts state golf championship and the championship of the Women's Eastern Golf Association. Mrs. Caleb Fox was second and Miss Elisabeth Hurry third in the com petition for the Eastern championship. , CHAMPION OF WOMEN'S EAST- ! KHX GOLF ASSOCIATION. i ? A i i f IT ; A Safe Place to Trade Best Values Lowest Prices Midsummer and we have all of the business we can handle. The people know and appreciate gen uine bargains and we have been giving them nothing else for more than a month. Stop ana con sider, carpets of every description at ACTUAL COST; reason, we are going to discontinue this branch of our business. In furniture, mattresses and other lines we have cut tHe prices to the quicK and our offerings in any of these lines are not duplicated elsewhere. See for yourself. 9 Extension Table In golden and royal oak finish; 40-lnc.h square top. 5 legs, feet long when extended.5pe cial price 5.75 Dresser, golden ash. ........ -88.RO Dresser, solid oak 812.5Q Couches, velonr covered 86.75 Bedlounge, velour covered. .810.50 Soft Cotton-Top Mattress..... 82.5Q Kitchen Treasures 82.5Q Drop Leaf Table sa.oo Taubenheimer & Schmeer Carpet and Furniture Co. of the preacher. After citing how his own religious rights were belittled and trampled upon by his wife at the behest of her father, and how she persisted In attending the father's service. Mr. Phil Hps goes on: "While & mother's love was being lavisued on the dusky children of the jungle and the ebony tribes of the Fiji Islands and messages and love and devotion were being- dispatched to the wilds of Africa, w-here the fierce and naked savages roam, plaintiff was condemned to wander in public parks, meekly poshing a baby carriag-e. "Plaintiff further avers that when the defendant came to Chicago to live and to preach, he thought It would contribute to his domestic happiness to join hfs church. Defendant quickly had plaintiff Immersed into the ram ifications of the church militant. He was -made secretary of two new or ganizations, and the defendant herein, seeing a rare chance of easing up In his pastoral duties, now that his son-in-law was within his spiritual as well as domestic sway and command, quick ly relieved himself of the task of Sun day school teacher and shifted this task on plaintiff's back, although plain tiff was a very green band at this work. "Plaintiff can partly account for the loss of his wife's affections on the score that he was not sufficiently enthusi astic regarding the preaching and moral influence .of her father. On one specific occasion, as plaintiff and his family were seated at the dinner table after the morning- sermon, plaintiff's wife exclaimed: " TDidn't papa whoop up her up this morning Didn't you see him throw his cuff off In his vehement denuncia tion of the liquor traffic?' "I ventured to remark that he was paid for whooping her up, and from that day I was a doomed man, so far as my influence in my own home went. "When Mr. Immaculate seats him self at the head of the table and Miss Hysteria in close proximity, with Miss Petulance and Mr. Cynic In attendance to reinforce, there Is small, chance for Mr. Meek. Miss Hysteria amply fills the role of Cassandra, and when the plaintiff, Phillips, appeared before such a gathering of virtue and wisdom he was quickly overwhelmed between the Scylla and Charyhdis of the preacher's conclaves. Nine long and weary months plaintiff has been constrained Sets 10,000 Ems an Hour Invention of a Michigan Mechanic; Requires No Heat for Melting Metal; Is Operated by Two Men. NEARL.T every, one is more or less familiar with the typesetting ma chines that are in daily use in our large newspaper and printing offices, which cast the type from molten metal as the machine is operated. To build a machine which would set ready-made type has been the ambition of a number of Inventors for some years past. The most recent solution of the problem Is embodied In a machine invented by A. G. Baker, of Albion, Mich. The machine has a capacity of setting 10 lines of type per minute of ordinary column width, or technically speaking. 10,000 ems an hour, as against a record of 6000 to 7000 ems on the older ma chines. The upright portion of the machine Is called the magazine and consists of 90 channels containing the different letters of the alphabet, punctuation marks and other characters used in printing. Each channel Is Just wide enough to contain the character allotted to it without allow ing it any more room than it requires to slide up and down easily. The channels are entirely independent of one another, so that any of them can be removed from the machine if desired without disturb ing the others. The first channel at the right is but eight inches long, while each succeeding one is one-eighth of an inch longer, so that the lower end of the magazine is In clined from right to left, the top being level. The type is set by pressing the keys on the keyboard, as in other typesetting machines. When a key is pressed, it op erates a plunger, which enters its cor responding channel from the rear, and pushes the lower piece of type out Into the inclined guide plate in front, whence it is carried by gravity to the assembling point at the lower left-hand corner of the machine. The guide-plate is so tilted that those characters which are farthest from the assembling point will travel fastest when released from the magazine, be cause of the greater Inclination of the: plate at the end. while those nearer travel more slowly. Consequently, all arrive at the assembling point at the same time. This enables one to operate the machine very rapidly without the danger of trans posing letters. As the letters reach the angle In the gulde-plata at the lower left-hand corner, a sort of escapement action, actuated by a spring concealed in the base, and op erated by the depression of the keys, places them on their feet in line ready for removal at such time as may be desired. One of the machine: most Ingenious CARPETS AT COST. Axminster Carpet, yd..S1.00 Roxbury Tapestry, yd. .$1.00 Velvet Carpet, yd $1.00 Extra All-Wool Ingrain per yd. at special low price 65 Good Tapestry Carpet, yd. 75 ROOM RUGS. 9x12 Axminster Rug. .$18.50 9x12 Tapestry Brussels at spe cial low price ....... .$10.50 9x12 Tapestry Seamless Rug at special low price.. $16.50 9x12 Bokanay. Rug... $12.50 9x12 Ingram all-wool. .$8.50 12-foot Linoleum, yd...75 6-foot Linoleum, yd.....60 to travel over the blinding sands of a moral desert. Not a single oasis has appeared at which ha could quench his parched soul. Plot of Wool Dealers Exposed. Chieagoans have just awakened to the fact that the wool dealers' plot to raise the price of wools was hatched secretly at a meeting in this city last October. Now they are warned by local merchants that the price of men's suits next Spring will be sharply .ad vanced as a result of that plot unless some good angel intervenes to prevent. Fall goods were purchased long enough ago to escape the Increased schedule of prices, hence there will be no ma terial advance in the cost of a suit of clothes In the Autumn, hut for the Spring the prospect is held out that a suit which coBt 18 this Spring will go up to $23 next Spring. , Henry C. Lyton, head of a big local retail house dealing In men's cloth ing said: "The prices on wool are now so high that the woolen manufacturers have advanced the quotations 35 to 46 cents a yard on serges alone. On the higher grades of woolens they have added 50 cents a yard. This means that the average American working man will have to pay from J2.50 to 95 more for a suit than he does now." Information of this sort, so closely affecting the pocketbooks of voters, has amazingly quickened popular vigi lance on the tariff doings in Wash ington and has given President Taft's declared policy for a revision down ward a cordial reception here. Con sumers somehow expect the pronun ciamento of the President will turn awry the plans of the wool men and the woolen meJiufacturers. This is one instance In wt ich there seems to be a hearty commui ity of sentiment in the ranks of both capital and labor in Chicago. The merchants are firmly set against a situation that would com pel a readjustment of prices upward. It always causos unpleasantni-ss in dealings between merchant and cus tomer, they say, and many refuse to understand why the price advance is necessary, while others cannot under stand It. Other thjngs being equal, they would rather see the whole price structure lean the other way. A lowering- scale of values breeds good hu mor and makes merchandising: a com parative pastime. features is the distributing mechanism, which operates backward and forward across the top of the magazine, similar In action to the carriage of a typewriter. This part of the machine contains a num ber of channels, like those of the maga zine, except that they are much shorter. In each channel of the distributor a line of type is placed, and as the keys are pressed In the setting of a new form, the distributing device moves backward and forward one space at a time. At the top of each channel of the magazine, and extending about one-third of the way across the opening, are steel strips called "wards." Each ward has a num ber of protuberances upon Its surface, corresponding In number and shape to the nicks on the side of each type char acter. The ward and Its corresponding type character will fit each other per fectly, but neither will fit any other except its own compartment. As the distributor moves across the top of the magazine, each piece of type is tested against the wards until it finds its corresponding ward, and falls into its own channel. In this way the type is distributed without any extra effort on the part of the operator, and coinci dent with the setting of a new form. The machine has been designed to set all standard sizes and styles of type. Type having the same sized body, no Remedies are Needed Were we perfect, which we are not, medicines would not often be needed. But since oor systems have be come weakened, impaired and broken down through indiscretions which have gone on from the early ages, through countless generations, remedies are needed to aid Nature in correcting our inherited and otherwise acquired weaknesses. To reach the seat of stomach weakness nd consequent digestive troubles, there is nothing so tfood as Dr. Pierce's Golden Medical Discov ery, a glyoerio compound, extracted from native medic- inal roots sold for over forty years with great satisfaction to 11 users, tor Weak Stomach, Biliousness, Liver Complaint, Pain in the Stomach after eating, Heartburn, Bad Breath, Belching of food, Chronic Diarrhea and other Intestinal Derangements, the "Discovery" is time-proven and most efficient remedy. The genuine has on its outside -wrapper the Signature V You can't .fford to sccept secret nostrum as substitute for this ""-'e-holic, medicine of known cowrosmoN, not even though the urgent dealer may thereby make a little bigger profit. , . Dr. Pierce's Pleasant Pellets regulate and invigorate stomach, liver ana bowels. Sugsr-costed, tiny granules, easy to take candy. Iron Bed, like Illustration, full or K size, any color desired; has brass top rail at head and foot; also brass mounts. This is a good and substan tial bed. well finished. Reg. Ji.so. now to Schmeei-s "Solid Comfort" Silko lene Mattress, made with pure silk floss and white felted cotton. This mattress has better lasting quality than any silk floss that is made. The reason we give for this is that the mattress has sev eral layers of pure felted cotton holding the floss In place so it is unable to shift, is thoroughly tufted down, has a perfect roll edge all around. With our 25 vears of practical experience in making mattresses we are able to place a mattress before the pub lic, that has no equal for the price. Our special price, $6.50 174 First Street Comer Yamhill matter what variation there may be In the face, may be used in the same ma chine indiscriminately; but where there is a difference In the size of the body adjustments have to be made in the machine to accommodate the change. The fact that the machine requires no power for Its operation, -and no gas or other heat for melting metal, adapts it particularly well for the use of coun try newspapers, that have been unable heretofore to make use of the advan tages offered by such machinery, ow ing to the lack of proper facilities. The machine Is most advantageously operated by two men, one setting the type and the other'spaclng the lines or justifying them, as it is commonly called. All corrections in the proof are made from the ordinary case of type, as this requires less time than making the changes with the machine. Scientific American. Dinner Menus for the Week BY LILIAN" TIN'GI.E. Tuesday. Shoulder of Lamb, Rolled and Stuffed. Mint Sauce. Creamed Young Onions. Potatoes. Lettuce Salad. Cold Baked Custard with Fruit Juice. Coffee. Wednesday. Chilled Bouillon. Lamb Reheated With Tomato and Green Pepper. Boiled Potatoes. Fried Eggplant, lettuce Salad. Diced Tineappl and Cake. Coffee. Thursday. Boiled Steak or Hamburger. Lyonnaise Potatoes. Green Cora, Cucumber Jelly Salad. New Apple Tie. Coffee. Friday. ' Fish Pudding. Buttered Poatoea. Stuffed Squash or Kgg Plant. Lettuce and Pepper Salad. Berry Taptora With Cream. Coffee. Saturday. Fresh Figs. Veal and Hjun Pi-e. Minced Potatoes. Creamed Cucumber. Ess and Lettuce Salad. Pop-overs with Fruit Syrup. Coffee. Sunday. Roast Beef. Franconfa Potatoes. Cauliflower. Tomatoes Stuffed with- Cucumber and Olive. Mayonnaise. Cheeso Wafers. Cantaloupe with Ice Cream. CofTe. Monday. Minred Beef in Macarnnl Border. Italian Sauce. Fried F,gg Plajit, Chiffonade 7ettuce Salad with Garnish. Peach Cobler with Cream. Coffee. PLAN BIG IMPROVEMENT Parisians WiU Complete System of Boulevards in JTear Future. PAP.1S, July 24. iSpeciaJ.) The Junc tion of the Boulevard Haussmann, one of the finest thoroughfares in the French capital, with the main system of boule vards has been brought nearer by the decision of the Municipal Council to ac quire a block of buildings in the Rue Taitbout. These buildings are to lje pulled down when the various leases expire at the end of the next two or three years, and the Boulevard Haussmann will thus bs carried al! the way through to the Rue Laffitte. across which It is ultimately to bi linked up with the (Boulevard des Italiens. Some of the ground" now ac quired will be available for building sites, the enhanced value of which will enable the Council to reimburse itself in large part for the cost of acquiring the exist ing block of buildings. - , PL