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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 25, 1909)
t ' ' THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JULY 25. 1909. Pointers on Correct Underwear SO i wo SS", i O vulgar Is some of the underwear corn nowadays that a moral es say could well be- written on tne subject. Fut the whole truth of the mat ter is that the wearers of these over- trimmed garments, which In the cheape forms are really atrocious with their coarse materials and bad lace, are mis Informed as to the correctness of their taste. Dame Fashion, above all ladies on esrth. has no liking anywhere for coarse splendors, and when It cornea to the vm cit Raiment, that holy raiment which n-rnpii women closest, she Is a veritahl martinet In - opinion, commanding al wsivs the most delicate material and riaintv work one can afford. In ftict. the good lady seems to say to each of her daughter s they start forth for a dehauch or wmtc snoppmg. ne member you are a lady, my dear." In short, clmose something for its re finement rather than for lavish decora tion something preferably plain than showing a cheap flashiness. And so i Las- been since Eve's daughters first tnolt to petticoats; In all opinion worth considering. It Is the underllnen. rathe' than the gown, which gives that Ineffable essence known as ladyhood. The Imported underwear, which stands at the top of the ladder for good taste. supplies in the main the simplest of sll models, and with these to go by. and materials so cheap, the home sewer has It in her means to supply herself luxuri nnsly and elegantly with all the under wear needed. White Js par excellence the first choice for material, though a delicately tinted batiste. If made up by hand, may also be used for a fine set to match a special gown: while such a very novel texture as dotted muslin can. with punctillou taste, express the proper sentiment. Hand sewing Is almost obligatory on under wear In good taste, though seams may be machine stitched, for -all felling, tucking. the Joinings of trimmings, etc.. are done with patient fingers and the cambrio needle of our grandmothers. .. Every material has Its special sort of trimmlnr. The French slip chemises, which are made In the convents abroad and come over In Immense numbers to this country, are trimmed only about the neck and armholes with a sparse era broidery, a very narrow ribbon, slipping through the eyelets holding the garment about the shoulders. These may be In the finest nainsook, but those In the coarsest muslin have a pretty look, the shapes are so simple and the handwork in such good taste. In fact, coarseness is no bar to these Inexpensive and yet dainty garments, for the muslin used Is delightfully soft and the Irregular mesh of the cotton has a pleasant look: and since all such chemises are very cheap and cheapness means to most persons the only chance for a generous supply they are most desirable purchases to consider on the shopping tour. Summer ntght gowns are decidedly fetching with their cut-out necks, and the extreme width of drawers, which are fitted over the hips absolutely without a gather, makes them appear very modest. In the petticoat department, the Influ ence of the princess gown and all slink skirts Is decidedly felt, for here charm ing garments long and short take to a great extent the princess form, and the skirt of old fulness Is conspicuous by Its absence. Everything fits closely and falls softly, and these facts in themselves should warn the buyer against the things burdened with fluttering laces and cheap masses of ribbon. Hut back to my chosen hearer, the home sewer. The models pictured this week give some pretty and new lingerie effects: and let me say that cotton and linen take elegant precedence every time over silk for intimate underwear. Kigure A shows a French nightdress, which would be most acceptable in soft finished nainsook or handkerchief linen. A simple hand embroidery Is used about the neck and wide sleeves, and the rib bon eyelets are made directly in the sown mn terlal. For the' medium slue there will be re quired S 6-8 yards of material 36 Inches wide; and If the sewer objects to the work involved by the embroidery, a bias fold, through which a tinted ribbon may be slipped, makes a pretty finish for the neck and sleeves. Figure B displays a cut as suitable for a simple hot-weather wrapper as for a night dress, for ihe style. Is used for both farmcrrts. For a night gown checked l-atlste. trimmed, as here, with edging. ii.sTtion and beading, would be pretty and cool and the same material, figured or striped with color, or a delicately patterned lawn would be suitable for a wrapper. Made in black china silk, the gown would be excellent for a travel ing nightdress, for on a train or steamer J It is desirable to have a night dress look as much like a day gown as possible. Measurements call for 4H yards of ma terial 3S inches wide. ii yards of Inser tion. 34 yards of edging and 1!4 yards of beading. For batiste a fine lawn embroidery would be suitable for this model. A very charming negligee, consisting cess gowns. For this dainty garment a very fine lawn with Valenciennes inser tions, and a lawn frill narrowly edged with this, suggests a combination for the average purse: but If a coarse colored lawn, cheap lace and machine work are used, the piece, now so pretty, would be the essence of vulgarity. A delicately figured batiste, trimmed with Italian Val- oi!. Melt this with hot water and epply the egg first to the scalp, massagln both In with a rotary movement. Where the dandruff scales cling to th scalp In tight and obstinate layers. It 1 necessary to remove them sometimes with a powerful ointment, such as oxide of xinc. If the scalp Is very sore after this, the yolks of two eggs, beaten up In pint of lime Juice, will have an excellent effect. Apply this to the scalp before the shampoo, leaving It on till the hurt Is allayed. KATHER1NE MORTON" SOME TIMELY RECIPES FIGURE D. of a separate skirt and dressing jacket. is shown In figure C. Made as Illustrated of white dotted muslin, with trimmings of lace and pretty ribbons, the two pieces would supply a elightful get-up for hot weather loung ing In the home. As the two pieces worn n this way together partake of the na ture of a costume, they may also be made of some delicate silk, plain or fig ured, and in that event appear In the morning for the reception of women vis itors. Again, made all of a simple awn. gingham or chambray. the get-up would effect a comfortable housekeeping ress for those who dislike fitted gowns while working. For the usual figure there will be required 44 yards of mate rial 3S Inches wide. Figure D displays one- of the fashion able fitted chemises, yet with the skirt merely lengthened the design becomes the slip petticoat necessary for thin prin- enclennes. would effect a look of Im ported elegance. - especially if the gar ment were made by hand", as It should be to wash properly. If for no other rea son. ' The model calls for 8i yards of 3S Inches wide. 3 yards of trimming for the skirt flounce, and 3. yards of edging for the neck and armholes. With shirtwaists a fuller chemise than this would be worn, and pray let me add that the habit of wearing broad colored ribbons in these, so that the huge bow shows plainly through the outer garment, has always been thought a mark of bad taste and Is now entirely tabooed by po lite persons. Why make It plain to the casual passer-by that we are wearing pretty chemises with blue or pink rib bons? It Is an immodesty to say the least, which every member of the sex should help combine to oust from the field. MARY DEAN. Treatment for Oily Hair and Dandruff Though Summer la the most favorable or all periods for the health and growth of the hair, thoe Inclined to the worry of abnormal secretions of oil 4re much tormented at this time. The temperature which invites new h;iir. the lengthening of the old and a renewal ot loss, spurs the oil glands, which have become unhealthily extended. Into more activity, causing a larger flow f grease, than under natural conditions. The ftfrlictkm of dandruff is likewise nia.it far greater in warm weather, for perspiration masses the offending par tVlos Into an unsnghtly crust, which, if ailowrd to remain upon the scalp, would seriously endanger the life of the hair. Koti, troubles require time and careful treatment for their cure, but where dan .iruft i tremendously diminished in a si.ort time with cleansing soap and water -h;unpooj. the oily scalp must be dry t'leane.l. as it were, and left without the l-riia-Mnif and massage suitable for the other trouble. ,ood hairdressers treAt many cases of oily .4alp to dry shampoos of cornmeal. wheat-bran or rice-powder, adding an ouni-e of orris root to a pound of the material usd. The powder is used in this ; " The hair ! ported !n section after sec t'on h11 over the head and the powder :ikt-n along the line from a can with lars perforations. A rood way to be is to prt the hair straight down the mi.lulf of i he bak and across the top of Die hrid. nnishinfr one side entirely i-jn-e touchtn: the other. Care Is taken t kt-p the s.-alp lts-lf a free as pos from the powder, and after it has rr:iui:nHi in the hair an hour or so it i bmshed out carefully with a medlum-rM-ff hrujih. After this it is wise to ap ;v nn atrincent tonic which ts yet not t,- stronc One frequently used at good lirur pia.-es is made as follows: Tt . of canthrWl alcoholtc. . i oun tn-IHt of roMmiry . . V unc i v f-Hn oun r.r"t! TiriACr ounce i'rrTi-fl"Wr wttr H ounr Tins may he srplied directly to the i aip with th finpr tips, though the Tiot Mry maAge for spreading the tontc should N Vv'rt. as nl friction only tends. U aggravate tiie flow of oiL .For this reason also the brushing so admir able for perfectly healthy scalps Is only permissible when It Is necessary to free the hair from the powder. In extreme cases of oily hair two dry FIGURE B. shampoo a week may be needed, but after the trouble Is modified somewhat one a week, or every two weeks, is enough. An occasional soap and water cleansing is absolutely requisite, am" other wise the powder will have a tendency to stop the pores. For this I would ad vise water, tepid rather than hot, and green soap, which Is drying, with a tea spoonful of borax, or four times this amount of ammonia in the water. "Moist hair." which la a tendency dis played by oily hair to catch and hold every dampness In the atmosphere, would find the next lotion helpful; but as it is more cleansing than stimulating it should be used only once a week: Bicarbonate of soda... jounce Borax ounce Cologne water...... 2 ounces Rectified spirit! 1 ounce Tincture of cochineal '.4 ounce Distilled wnser - 18 ounces Mix and shake thoroughly. Dandruff Is one of the most perilous of scourges if allowed to run on, for in extreme cases it produces grayness, fall ing hair and even baldness, and so un pleasant is the notion of it to persons exempt from the trouble that it is al most an impropriety to mention it In their presence. Though not in the begin ning a disease, dandruff may encourage the disorders of the scalp which produce these misfortunes so appalling to women, and along with its other baleful and really horrid tendencies, it Is liable to attack the eyebrows and cause their Tit ter extermination. With the first appearance of these of fensive and flying scales, the victim may be perfectly sure that her nervous sys tem has been somehow lowered, and should start in with a good tonic of Iron and hyperphosphiles, taking codllver oil. as well. The scalp, too, must be coated at regular Intervals with olive oil er vase line, and vigorously massaged every day. The shampoo, taken every week, or fortnight, should also possess healing qualities, and nothing better for cleansing and soothing could be recommended than egg and castlle soap. The yolk of eggs contains natural food for the hair, sul phur and iron: while the mild alkali of the white mingles with the oils of the hair and the two form a lather which Is in Itself rleanslng. Beat two fresh eggs lo a bowl with a little warm water, and in another bowl scrape three or four tabVspoonfuls of powder from a cake of castila soaD hard with aga and rich with Creole Beef Salad If the house keeper will remove her soup meat from the fire before it has boiled to shreds she will find it excellent for this salad The rib portion of the beef that the butcher calls the "plate piece Is th most juicy part to use. Slice as man thick bits oft as will make a pound an then tear these into finer fragment with the fingers: any meat so treated for salad is more tender than when cut in the cubes so often seen. Then snreo two. sweet Spanish' peppers finely an tear un a laree lettuce tnto narrow- pieces. Add four thin slices of Spanish onion divided into rings, and one table spoonful of copped olives or parsley. rrees with mayonnaise or French dress lng. using vinegar always Instead of lemon juice. All meat ana tisn saiann Indeed any salad should oe very coia when served.- e Hen-Ins: Salad Use the boneless red herrings put up In boxes or glasses, scalding the pieces In hot water, drying them and chilling them on the ice. Shred these finely into veritable splinters ana miv with as many cold boiled white po tatoes as are needed fo soften the her ring taste and yet not quench It . too much. French dressing Is best for this salad, and the potatoes will seem more delicate if thinly sliced instead of being cut in chunks. Cayenne is a necessity for even a difference In pepper makes a difference in taste. ' Sardine and Toast Salad Take a doz en large French sardines, skin them and shred finely. Then toast as many long narrow strips of white bread till they are thoroughly browned through without De in burned. Cover these with a prelim inary coating of olive oil and let them stand aside. When ready to serve, mix the fish and bread together . with salt, cayenne and lemon juice, and add a bit of toast upon which a clove or garlic has been briskly rubbed. Add more oil ana cover the dish before serving for ten minutes, so that the salad may be thor oughly permeated with the garlic with out tasting of its bitter. Take out the garlic scented crust and watch the faces of the diners as they eat the delectable mess. If they are French Creoles they Will certainly beam their approval, for these folk of Sophisticated palates know that toast In salad or soup lends a taste that nothing else will supply. Fig Salad This is a sweet dish, and though dubbed a salad. It might very properly come under the dessert head. It makes a delicious hot weather feast For three persons quarter 12 fresh, ripe sugar figs into a pretty dish and pour over them a cup of clear strained honey Lie the dish stand on Ice and when ready to serve whip up a small glass of brandy or Maraschino cordial into two cups of rich cream and pour over the figs. Dried figs, soaked for several hours In cold fresh - water and then parboiled, may be used also if the fresh fruit is not forth coming. Cook with half a lemon peel and sugar, and in this instance use the syrup that the figs have been cooked m instead of the honey. ... Frnlt Cup Pineapples, oranges, ba Dan as. lemons, grape-fruit, strawber ries, grapes, pears, apples, etc.. achieve this delectable and reviving drink. The large fruit Is cut up in thin slices, and then covered with powdered sugar and allowed to stand until the Juices draw. Before serving, cracked Ice, dis tilled water, sprigs of mint, and a few maraschino cherries are added, Ginger ale or seltzer might take the place of the plain water, though aqua pura accomplishes tne most aeiicious summer thing, wnen serving tne cup, use tall slim glasses, and see that each one Is ornamented with a sprig of the mint and one or two big strawberries. Anv fruit In season may be added to this delicious drink. Rla-olette a I'EspagnoI This Is : Creole dish in immense favor with fam Hies of West Indian extraction. It is economically made and Is admirable for luncheon or when served as a ain- ner entree. An earthenware dish is half filled with ripe peeled tomatoes, banked with the four halves of two rreen oenners. A pinch of sugar, cay enne pepper, and two or more gills of cream are added, and after the dish has been baked till done, eggs are broken on top, and the dish set In the oven till they are delicately poached. The rlgolette is served on buttered slices of toast Th American Mania for Pistols. Boston Transcript. The average man in this region does not carry a concealed weapon, revolver or other. Of the 53,000 men and boys who were arrested and searched in Boston during the last municipal year, only 154 were found to be "heeled" only about one In 345 of the very persons that might be expected to take up a bad habit. Yet it is equally certain that the average man own a revolver, for, though such weapons go all over the world, Americans have always been the best customers for this American in vention, the sale of wWch runs into the millions. Six great, corporations, most of them and the best of them here in New Eng land, and perhaps a dozen smaller con cerns, are engaged in the manufacture. One of the six has turned out 2.250,000 re volvers since 1872 the larger proportion during the more recent years. Of the other five leaders two have made a larger number; one, about as many; the other two, slightly fewer. Taking all these with the lesser folk,- it would be well within the mark to say that we have manufactured 25.000 revolvers within 35 years or so. and that the present demand calls for 1.000.000 a year. How Is the 1.000.000 distributed? A Mas sachusetts manufacturer, speaking for a corporation which, of course, has trade outlets that might be very different from those of other manufacturers, says that out of every 100.400 revolvers 10.000 go abroad, which in this case means to Great Britain and the continent; 20.000 to distributers in Chicago and St. Louis. 15.000 to Denver and San Francisco, 10.000 to Mesxloo. Central and South America. 25.000 to New Tork and 20.000 stay right here in New England. Stewed Cod's Head. Clean the head and split it. Put It In a stew pan with a lump of butter rolled in flour, thyme, cloves, mace, pepper and salt. Add a cup of claret and stew a half hour. Serve garnished with yolks oX eggs. Etiquette for the Athletic Girl HO Is the athletic glrj? She is the recent graduate, the girl ap proaching graduation: that sun burned, bold-eyed darling who doesn't care a pin if there is a snake in the road the maid of lovely 'teens who -can make or mar her health, and certainly has it In her power to earn a reputation for bad taste every moment of her life. makes a man the most comfortable wife in the world. Full of good sense then, she shines in all domestic ways, never nag ging the poor, overworked hubby (who, of course. Isn't Husky, the first love), and bringing up her boys to be brave, honest and true. Wherein lies the girl's first fault, then? It is in excess of enthusiasm, which brings about a lofty scorn for everybody When the fever Is at its height she Is not Interested in athletic sports; in con- FIGURE C. the epitome of egotism, perhaps, indiffer ent to the opinion both of parents and the outside world. She is at times. the despair of mothers and the adoration of big brothers, who also are inclined to a penchant for muscles, and when it comes to the business of the winged god, she picks out the first husky fellow who looks well in the baseball team. There are her, faults her virtues are manifold, and the dearest one is that when she does marry and' settle down she tempt for the weakly bodied, and In the cock-sureness that everything she herself does Is right. To carry anything to extremes is al ways bad taste, and when I have seen girls Jumping high hurdles in college grounds till they were as white as ghosts, or as red as boiled lobsters, I have al ways felt like calling out, "If you only knew how you look!" Moderation makes enjoyment last long er and Is, the sign manual of a well- brought-up person. Hurdle Jumping Is great sport, but not always a very good one for women: and where it Is carried to a point where a girl shows Immediate signs of breakdown it is certainly no voucher for the health it is intended to promote. Then there Is the slang of the sporting field the golf, or tennis, or baseball ad jective which is carried everywhere and sometimes seems to constitute an athletic girl's whole vocabulary. This usage of sporting phrases away from the places where they belong is very had form, and. In fact, except for such words as pertain to the game, the well-bred girl avoids them entirely. Who has not heard some golf enthusiast tell a story In a drawing room and turned away if the story-teller was a girl .and the listener outside the -magic field of sports with something skin to disgust? Not one word in 10 perhaps was Intelligible except to the bemuscled few who listened, as it were, with dropped Jaws and adoring eyes. The athletic girl, properly trained, confines her drawing room talk to a speech which is supposed to be understood by the majority of her listeners: and just as a horse would be out of place in a flowered bedchamber, so are sports and their Idioms generally unsuited to the somewhat artificial re finements of drawing-rooms. It is one thing to be athletic, and an other to be "sporty." so let me warn young girts inat tne lasi apivnnne is bi- ways applied to women who frequent the race course and indulge in talk of "win ning" or "losing": and to be dubbed "sporty" is the ugliest compliment that can be paid a woman, for respectful prejudice is never in her favor. Neither Is the horsewoman who hsnes too much about stables admired, and though her habit may be one of the, utmost modesty, it is not thought the best taste for her, so dressed, to walk ahout much in busy districts, for everything which attracts attention belittles a wo man's dignity. In the matter of general dress the ath letic girl is often at sea. and she is fre quently more Indifferent than partial to pretty clothes. Her costume in the' field or away from It may offend the taste of many be too shabby and careless in one instance, a.nd too mannish in the. other. She may leave the battle with her sleeves rolled up to the shoulder and thus ro down the village . street, her hat "slung" on her head and walking on the balls of her feet, with that pitched-forward. kangaroo swing that so many of the physical culture girls think the right thing. No wonde the good villagers, to whom she may be an utter stranger, are fright ened out of their wits sometimes and de cide off-hand that this is not a person their daughters can meet! The bad-tempered athlete has a hard time of it with her own fellows, for no body likes a girl who flies Into a rage when she loses a game, or takes on a grandly disdainful air because some other girl is dressed more prettily, or perhaps lies grouehily on her stomach on the links, refusing either to play it out or to' "get out." All this Is wrong, you may be sure, and when starting out upon her athletic career, a girl should bear in mind, first, that she must go it easily. Exercise tak en in moderation is magnificent develop ment for the mind as well as body, but carried to excess It Is only brutalizing while to wear the badge eternally of your fad in every word uttered is the height of silliness. For the rest The dear athletic girl Must think a bit of dress. And be as kind and as wise as strong. If she her life would blesi. The great world which can decide the peace of all of us prefers always the medium thing, the costume and behavior which will not take the breath away with their oddity, demands some sign in a girl that she is fitted not only for polite so ciety, but that she has the gentle heart which has made her sex so adorable, and superior, to man's. So bear in mind: The wrong athletic girl is a menace to her own peace and an affliction to society; while the right one Is the pride of all the country she adorns ' she who is helping to pave the way for the health and sanity of unborn genera tion. Moderation is her motto. And as I have intimated, she grows at last all youthful follies over to be the sweetest and most wholesome of all women. PRUDENCE STANDISIL Some Dress Hints for the Hot Weather T Is not always possible to buy an entire hot weather costume, but a deal can be done with common sense and a few judiciously chosen acces sories. Hot weather sets the pace for a num- er of small reforms In the way of hurt ful vanities, so let fair woman look to these first. Tight shoes, lacing and a close binding of the throat and wrists not only increase the temperature ot the body on a hot day, but give the In vitation direct, other things favoring. for the sunstroke. From the chin to the sole of the foot on a very warm day dress should 'be as easy as it can be made, and preferably in a pale color or white. White resists heat rays more ef fectually than any tint, however pale, and when it is ninety-ever-so-mucb in the shade, nothing is more becoming. Besides, It rests the spirit through pleasing the eyes, wnioh is an Immense factor in the case. Unstarched and perfectly fresh un derwear is needed, a lightweight hat and sensible sunshade, the easiest gloves and boots that vanity will allow, these are the accessories almost any body can afford. Tan or bronze low kid shoes, worn with matching stockings 1 in cotton gauze or lisle, are the com fortable and stylish foot capers Just now. Since fashion auows mem. sup pers may also be worn and smart ones for the-smartest frock, whatever it Is, are of bronze Rid wun Deaaea ioe. These can be had In fairly comfortable haoes. and since they are so delicately made they are most becoming to a pret ty foot. Smart gloves contrast wren clumsi ness, for chamois has an immense vogue and is declared as cooi as a-nyuiins. But there are silk gloves in a mosquito mesh, whose perforations are imitated In certain short and quite coquettisn corsets. Other dog-day corsets are made of narrow wash tapes or dainty flowered ribbons, and gratified vanity, If nothlna- else, will certainly retresn the wearer of them. How much depends upon he petti coat! There are some divinely kind divinely cheap. Skirts which seem ac tually to chasten the spirit, they are so pretty, comfortable and low priced, are of chambray with machine worked bot toms. These are in the colors of the rainbow blue, rose, gray, violet apd yellow and each coquette costs Jtist 49 cents. But. of course, they are not sold at the places which cater to the children of fortune, and sometimes they must be carefully dug out from beneath other Monday bargains. With four such skirts two forever in the wash a neat girl will feel that she has the foundation, at least, for peace when the thermometer begins to jump up up up. Canvas and ribbon belts, which are sold in quantities very low, are a deal cooler than leather, and warm-weather dress-siiields are made of the lightest possible rubber and lined only at one side. Lightweight canvas hats and small umbrellas in a deep, soothing green, around $2.00. a 1 -m canvas Boer hat, wrapped with a muslin or silk scarf, going for about the same figure. FIGURE A. A Cinderella for the Slipper. Indianapolis News. , Several months ago a Parisian journal published a fake story that a convention would be held at which a large cash prize would be given to the young woman who would be able to wear the slipper of Cin derella, that famous piece of footwear having been found. It stated that the dimensions of this slipper had become known to a number of Parisian belles, that they had measured their pedal ex tremities and given up In despair any hopes they might have entertained of success in this contest, which would now be open to the world. This story, widely published In Europe, found its way into papers in Hungary, where It is claimed that young women have the smallest feet in Europe, and a few days ago the fol lowing letter came addressed to M. d Selves, Mayor of Paris: Monsieur le Burg-omestre: I have read in my paper that a gentleman at Paris has preserved a slipper of Cinderella and that a prize of 60.000 francs will be given to the young-woman, aged more than 18 years, who can wear this slipper. lh belles of Paris having until the present vainly attempted this trial I do not hesitate to claim the prise In advance, for I declare myaelf able to put this alipper on my foot and having done so to dance a waits or a mazurka. Praying that you excuse any trouble that I mav cause you. Monster Ie Bourgmestre, I remain respectfully and devotedly. JOSEPHINE DOMOTOKFF DE Pancsova. Hungary. Mile. Josephine Is only one of the many from scores of cities that have been vic tims of a newspaper fake, but none of them comes from Chicago. grow upon every bush. The sunshades, for they come under the parasol head, amply resist the suoden shower as well as the sunstroke, and look smart with their woven borders, natural wood sticks and silk, tassels. They are priced Writing Habits of Jules Verne. London Telegrapn. Jules Verne, author of "Twenty Thou sand Leagues Cnder the Sea," required no legislative enactment to make him get up early. He rose at 4 in the morn ing in the Summer and climbed up a sort of watch-tower which dominated his house in the Boulevard de Longue- ville. Amiens, where his study was sit uated. He called this room his "cab- There he used tcr work until 10 o'clock. In the Winter when he awoke he would await daylight, either reading In bed or evolving scenes for his novels Health Commissioner Harllngton estimate that Great!- New York had a population of 4. 422.eS.1 January 1- which ie an in- crM of l7.2-"iO during loos, and tbre were 41fi mr births and 61-13 fewer deaths In 1808 than In 49u.