6 -- THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, - JULY 11, 10OO.
Summer Sewing for First Fall Use
WHILE awaiting the dictum of
Fashion concerning absolutely
new styles. It Is well for tlie home
iifwpr to pp what ran ho done with the
onfs on hand. Cuts and materials do not
cbanpc, as so many persons fancy, in a
lightning flash ; the transition Is really
cumulative, a little touch here and there
during a season showing the way the
wind is blowing and deciding the makers
at last as to whether or not the new Idea,
in Its entirety, should live.
A number of the Direotoire and prin
cess gowns now seen offer with modifica
tions or additions very pleasing sugges
tions for Autumn service. Day by day,
too. materials are growlr cheaper, so
that women who have plenty of time may,
with taste and patience, turn oirt some
thing which will seem of an elegance far
superior- to anything that hurried work
and a new season's tremulous indecision
could accomplish.
In fact, tho.e who leisurely turn their
attention to Autumn sewing now will find
many things in their favor cheapness of
materials offered for actual Autumn wear
is one of them, as the first of a season's
stock always tries to win the buyer by
low prices, and In the very middle of
the reason stuffs for another will appear.
Such materials ae are eternally fashion
able for Fall service plain cloth. serge
flannel and quietly colored silks and vell
Incs always precede at thin time the more
stRrtllnjy novelties, and In short lengths
mny often be picked up for a. song.
This week's models have alt been chosen
with nn eye to first Autumn wear and
the Idle hours that every home sewer
finds upon her hands at this period. And
as nothing Is of extreme style, the vari
ous things may he accepted not only as
suitable, but as eminently wise choices for
future wear. This is a good point to re
member with all sewing for a period to
come the sensible models, effects mid
way In the scale of extremes, are the
ones which always outlive the "rages."
Figure A shows a seml-prlncess dress,
which In a proper material, would he very
elegant for afternoon reception wear.
Shantung in any of the deep cream or
rich colors now displayed would realize
It handsomely, and this material Is one
which is likely to be used all Winter for
house service. A flg-ured silk or plain
cashmere could also he used, with the
trimming contrast Ins:, and with a proper
hat and feather ima or ribbon or lace
neck ruffle, the gown will adapt Itself ad
mirably to dressy street use.
The costume as Illustrated 1s made of
shot blue silk, with a banding: of plain
bhe and narrow soutache braid, and It
closes at the left front. giving the Ions
slender lines now so necessary for cor
rect style. The chemisette Is of lace
touched with embroidery in the dress
color. though It is quite possible to have
this detail In a net. lace or silk in the
gown tint, for one-color effects are still
thought very beaut if id.
For the medium size there will be re
quired 12 yards of material 27 inches wide.
N yard of all-over lace, and 1H yards of
plain silk for the banding. The soutache
may be put on in a straight row if the
method shown In the model Is thought too
tedious.
Figure B shows a charming dress for a
girl in her late teens or early twenties, as
it comhinas a certain womanly grace with
Its youthfulness. For distinctly Autumn
use; a pale brown TMrectoire cloth would
be rich and useful In thin design, though
any softly falling twilled wool would be
bs pretty and certainly less expensive.
The model with its nine-gored skirt and
simple over-blouse is exceedingly smart. In
fact for both practical and dressy frock,
and since the bodice Is low cut and sleeve
less. It takes less than the usual quantity
of stuff.
For the over-blouse alone 2 yards of
material in 24-lnch width are needed. The
skirt requires seven yards more, a suit
able banding two. Inches wide for the
blouse, and small buttons and silk loops
for both pieces.
Figure C displays a get-up of unusual
dash for the school girl from 14 up. Made
in a plain wool texture, it would be a
most useful class dress to wear over stout
linen or lawn shirtwaists: while again a
smart weave and color would, with the
addition of a finer guimpe bodice, create
something good enough for any use.
A.s Illustrated, a pretty girlish frock and
neat and useful coat are made or deep
rose-colored shantung, with a piping of
hlack satin forming the narrow gown
trimming and collar and cuffs of the
coat. Blue or brown serge, or a checked
Treatment for Prematurely Gray Hair
IN the last few weeks 38 letters have
reached me regarding this serious
subject of prematurely gray hair,
and, naturally, the writers have been
much alarmed at this tendency shown
by their "crowning glory."
One girl wrote: "I am only 25, and
nobody In my family before me ever
showed a tendency to prematurely gray
hair." Another, even younger, told of
a long attack of fever, which left her
"as gray as a grandmother;" and more
than a round dozen letters declared that
they did not see why a woman should
turn white even In the "early 30s." AH
besought remedies, dyes, explanations
escapes from premature grayness.
There are a number of reasons for
this early grayness. It may mean an
inherited tendency. It may come from a
serious disorder of the nervous system,
or It may be the result only of tem
porary shock or a sapping illness. In
the last case. It Is quite possible for the
hair of a young person to return, with
restored health, to Its natural color, as
young heads which have been all but
white have been known to resume the
colorings of youth, under proper condi
tions, with time.
But If the grayness Is gradual and
continues. It points to a likelihood that
the nervous system is seriously de
ranged, and In that event there is noth
ing to do but carefully build It up if
not primarily to improve one's health,
then to arrest the spread of the gray
hairs!
In case of nervous derangement, nux
vomica and phosphorus, combined with
Iron or arsenic, are generally needed,
and these should be made into the form
pf a good tonic. But let me earnestly
caution my readers to take no medi
cine whatsoever without consulting
a physician, for while admirable tools
when handled properly, even fairly
simple drugs may prove dangerous
when given to the wrong persons. If
one's condition does not indicate the
need of arsenic It may do great in
Jury. On the other hand. It splendidly
restores any one whose system really
requires it.
Agatn. cpd liver oil may be needed by
many persons who find themselves turn
ing gray at an early age: there are pills
made of phosphorus and quinine which
are almost universally valuable; and it
is impossible to lay too much stress on
the need of good food, plenty of rest,
and regular and quiet sleep. Ten hours
of night sleep Is by no means too much
for a person nervously exhausted, and
an afternoon nap, or rest in a darkened
Scotch wool, are good wearing materials
for school service, and the model would
lose none of Its dash If made up entirely
without trimming, for the tailored effect
lends itself admirably to simple lines of
stitching.
For a lti-year-old girl there will be re
quired for the coat which would be an
FIGURE
excellent model for any odd wrap four
yards of material 27 inches wtde. The
drew calls for 8 yards In the same
width, 4V yards 44 inches wide, or 3 yards
62 inches wide.
Figure D Is another over-dress adapted
to school girls in their teens, and espe-
room, should be taken in addition to 1
iiiim.
If the tendency toward premature
grayness Is inherited, a Very young wo
man would doubtless be pardoned by
her friends for coloring her hair with
some harmless lotion, for the spectacle
of whitening locks about a young face
usually attracts too much attention for
the situation to be pleasant. An admir
able and harmless coloring lotion for
hair naturally dark is made of red wine
and sulphate of . iron. Dissolve seven
grammes of the sulphate in an ounce
of distilled water, then add a pint of
cially to classroom use. A thin checked
or plaid wool, with a narrow silk bias
outlining the scallops, as pictured, would
create one pretty effect in this model, the
silk bias always in pla.in color, of course.
Blue serge, trimmed with black, would be
even more useful and becoming to the
majority of wearers, and with this the
B.
tan pongee shirtwaist of Summer could
be worn to decided advantage.
The quantity oi material required for
the average 16-year size is 6 yards, 24
or 27 inches wide. The model may also
be used for girls as young as 12, and for
ages older than 16. MARY DBAX.
California claret, and steep gently for
10 minutes. Wet the -hair thoroughly
with this, massage the scalp and let the
lotion dry on without wiping the
tresses.
Another lotion, which, while not ef
fective In all cases, is yet effectively
useful in some, is made of green tea
and sage in this way: Green tea, two
ounces; dried garden sage (last crop),
two ounces.
Put these Ingredients in an Iron pot
which can be closely covered: add three
quarts of boiling hot rain water, which
is preferable to well water; simmer till
reduced one-third: then take the pot
off the fire and after 24 hours stand
ing, strain and bottle the liquid. Wet
the hair with this liquid, and massage
night and morning as with the other
formula. -.
This simple wash Is declared to have a
tonic effect upon the hair, and many
cases of falling hair have been much
benefited by it when other medica
ments have failed entirely.
A form of grayness quite usual and
most unbecoming in all cases is the ap
pearance of white hairs In scattered
patches, these presenting against .the
colored hair a streaked and very un
natural appearance. Where there are
not too many of those solidly whiten
ing places, it Is an easy matter to tint
them without touching the rest of the
hair. A good darkener for these iso
lated patches is made as follows: pyro
galllc acid, one-quarter ounce: distilled
water (hot), one and a half ounces.
Dissolve, and when cool add half an
ounce of rectified spirits.
This should be applied with a soft
brush, and the mixture dilluted, when
using it, with twice Its quantity of soft
water. As it is a definite stain, the
effect desired may need repeated ap
plications. A harmless dye for naturally yellow
or reddish hair Is a solution of pure
rouge, or a strong infusion of saffron
in a weak solution of crystallized car
bonate of soda. This should be followed
when the hair is dry by a "mordant"
(set) of lemon juice or vinegar diluted
with equal part of water.
The hair should always be carefully
shampooed and dried before applying
any coloring lotion, as the oil and dust
or wetness will prevent the dye taking
properly. As much depends upon the
choice of cleansers, let me advise all
those with -dry hair to avoid strong
soaps, soda, borax and ammonia, as
these only hasten gray hair. An excel
lent shampoo Is made of qulllai bark, a
saponacious plant, lo whose use the
Chilean women are said to owe their
magnificent hair. Only a small piece
of the bark is required to lather a
large bowl of water, and the use of the
bark will in time leave a fine burnish,
which one authority on the suhiect lik
ens to "varnish In its brilliancy.
At all times a stimulating hair lotion
may be advised, those containing qui
nine or iron being especially tood. and
preparations with the latter being like
wise darkening in tendency. An un
guent which would do much toward
promoting the health of the scalp, may
be made of castor oil. beef marrow or
vaseline. The marrow is melted and
clarified, and like the other oils. Is
sweetened with cologne or extract.
A dally massage, an occasional sun
ning and soft water for all dyes and
washing purposes are indispensable in
the treatment here IhI1 out.
Dinner Menus
for the Week
BY LILIAN- TINGLE.
Tuesday.
Boiled Salmon ' Cucumber
N'ew Potatoes
Caulifower. Mayonnaise
Raspberry Sponge
ConVe
Wednesday.
1 Veal Loaf. Spinach.
, French Fried Potatoes
Stuffed Cucumber Salad
Cherry or Raspberry Fritters
Coffee
Thursday.
V Broiled Steak Bem&lse Sauce
Potatoes String Beans
Letttuce and Pepper Salad 1
Berries and Cream Cakes
Coffee
Friday.
- Celery Soup
Stewed Perch. German Style.
New Potatoes
Mixed Vegetable Salad. Mayonnaise.
Rhubarb Meringue Pie
Coffee
Saturday.
, Kebobbed Mutton Turkish Rice
Stuffed - Tomato Salad
" Blackberry Pudding. Hard Sauce
Coffee Sunday.
Roast Veal. Stuffed. Brown Sauce
Cauliflower Potatoes
Imitation Guava Jelly (Gooseberry)
Pineapple with Cream, Mayonnaise
on Lettuce
Frozen Rice Pudding with Fruit
Coffee
Monday.
Sliced Vea!, Reheated, pith Chopped Pickles
in Piquante. Cream Sauce
Crust Border Peas "
Nasturtium and Potato Salad
Jellied Pineapple and W hipped Cream
Coffee
Timely Recipes
GREEN Tomato Soy Take one peck
of green tomatoes and add a pint
of salt, after the tomatoes have been
sliced thin. Let them stand 24 hours,
w-hen drain, and put them In a pre
serving kettle with one dozen opions
sliced thin, one ounce of black pepper,
one ounce of allspice, a quarter of a
pound of yellow mustard, mixed, and
a half pound of whole mustard seed.
Then cover with good cider vinegar,
and boil until it is as thick as jam.
To Pickle Cucumbers in Slices Take
three dozen cucumber?, fully grown,
slice them as for the table, and lay
them in a colander sprinkled thickly
with salt. Slice among them four
small onions, and let them drain over
night. In the morning put them in a
pan. and mix with them . thoroughly
half a cup of whole black pepper and
one of mustard seed, when put them
in a stone Jar covered with vinegar.
Cover the jar tightly and keep them
in a cool place.
Baltimore Cherry Pudding Stew
some sour cherries until about, half
cooked, when stir Into them cinnamon,
brown sugar and a little brandy. Add
a small quantity of grated bread
crumbs. Put in a buttered dish some
slices of toast, well buttered, and
sprinkled with sugar in alternate lay
ers with the fruit. Bake according to
your Judgment.
Okra Soup Take a shin of beef, or
three pounds of the neck. Slice a half
peck of okras very thin and put In a
gallon of water with th; beef. Let It
boil steadily but not too hard for six or
seven hours. Take a quart of Lima
beans and boil separately. Just in time
FIGURE A.
to cook, add to the soup a half peck
of tomatoes, three onions, corn from
six ears, -and a carrot, If you like.
Then add the beans, and before serving
the soup add a piece of butter and a
tablespoonful of brown sugar. A
spoonful of -catsup is an improvement.
The Parisienne is always as keen to fol
low fashions In Jewelry as in frocks, and
Just now she has given her undivided af
fection to the turquoise.
ii ,
The Etiquette of Week Ends
IT is of the greatest Importance to
preserve such a happy form of hos
pitality as "the week end." Visiting
is a test of character, but during three
days we may be all able to conceal our
faults and present our virtues and our
gowns at their prettiest.
The punctuation of visiting by dates
FipURE C
at which pne is expected to come and
to go is a decided gain over the former
go-as-you-please method of giving and
receiving invitations.
When Miss Evangeline Jenkins is in
vited to "Pine Top" or "Ten Elms" from
July 16 to July 18 she knows just what
is expecte-d of her. and of her wardrobe.
Having accepted the invitation, she pre
sents herself by train or motor at the
time she is expected, when she finds
everything In readiness to receive her.
If she has the happy wisdom she puts
herself unreservedly at the disposal of
her hostess, who has doubtless planned
out all the diversions and occupations of
her stay, that it may be as agree'able
and as full as possible. It is very up
setting and throws everything out of
gear to have her guests acting inde
pendently of her arrangements.
For example, two young men invited
Household Hints for Bungalows
NO ONE expecting to spend the
Summer in a bungalow, camp, or
farmhouse without modern con
veniences, should be without a flreless
stove.
This Is not necessarily for cooking,
but' for the morning bath. Take a
wooden box two feet high and four
feet long, and have it fitted with
hinged .cover. Fill the box with ex
celsior, or sawdust, and make In this
two holes so as to snugly hold two
tin palls. Cover the contents and line
the holes with flannel. In the even
ing boll the water and fill the palls
at that temperature and put them in
the flreless stove, and cover. The next
morning the water will be so hot that
it must be tempered with cold water,
and will furnish two bnths.
The flreless stove, if necessary, can
be used for cooking. For example, if
the family desire to all go off for the
day picnicking or on aft excursion, an
Irish stew, to take a. familiar Illustra
tion, can be brought to a boil on the
stove, and then put in the flreless
stove; In the evening the stew will
be found as well cooked as If It had
been simmering on the back of --'the
range, as a stew should be cooked, all
day.
An impromptu safe may be made for
vegetables by taking wire netting and
building an enclosure'' according to the
needs of the family. If there Is a cel
lar, there it should be placed, and
made large enough to be entered' by a
wire door. The shelves, as many as
need be, run around the side, and also
to a house party knew some young wo
men at a neighboring house. and
planned to play tennis with them be
fore breakfast. They accordingly asked
the servant who attended them to serve
them some coffee in their room be
fore leaving. The game was prolonged
and their seats were vacant at the
breakfast table, where there were other
young women whom they had been in
vited to entertain. The hostess was par
donably indignant at the liberty they
had taken, but could only resolve that
she would never invite them again.
Another case: Having tea served on
the lawn, a hostess was surprised to
find various guests absent, and learned
that one of these was serving tea. In her
own room, to which she had invited the
others. One cannot reprove people In
one's own house, but one can always
refrain from asking such people again.
' The welcome visitor Is one who is al
ways ready to go into the affair of the
moment and nil her part, whether at
bridge, tennis, charades, music or danc
ing, in a lively and agreeable manner.
The girl who wishes to "come again"
will make her attentions impartial and
show consideration to the older guests.
One of the prettiest girls of the sea
son found herself the next year not In-
are made of the wire netting. Here
can be placed not only vegetables, but
the Jellies and preserves, the canned
goods, and even the garden tools, for
the door should have a spring lock and
secure the contents not only from the
rats, but from thieves, and, possibly,
from the children.
Indeed, there Is nothing more useful
in Impromptu Summer dwellings than
plenty of wire netting, so many are
the uses to which It can. be put. Wire
netting, gilded, makes fine transoms,
as well as chicken coops, garden
fences, and trellis for the vines.
Another thing that is well to have
j on hand Is the folding frame built for
tne ironed clothes, but which can be
put to other and varied uses. If a
screen is necessary, the frame can be
covered for a screen. If a person is
ill. draped with a table cover or a
blanket, it can stand between the in
valid and a draught.
But one of the most novel uses for
a three-fold Ironing frame was Its
transformation Into a vapor bath. The
frame, draped with a blanket and some
rubber cloth to help cut. was placed
around a chair. The chair was cane
seated, and underneath a pan of water
was placed above the chafing dish al
cohol lamp. The victim was placed on
the chair, the lamp lighted - and the
screen drawn closely about her, her
head being released through the open
ing of a poncho, which was spread over
the top and kept In the steam. The
effect of throwing off a sudden and
threatening cold was ax successful as
if the vapor bath had come from one
of the cabinets that can be bought or
this purpose.
eluded among the guests at a popular
house, and was greatly surprised. She
never knew why, but as her hostess ex
plained to others, she could be depended
on for notfilng except to take one young
man or another off Into a corner, the
most secluded place on the piazza, or
In the grounds for a tete-a-tete.
This custom, which many young girl's
indulge in. is called by the pertinent
name of "twoslng." There are houses
devoted to "twoslng" ; . but when such,
houses become known, mothers declli.
the invitations to them for their daugh-"
ters. Then avoid "twosing." except un
der special circumstances, if you wish,
to be a desired visitor.
Now. in the best-managed " house"
there may be domestic contretemps and
cataclysms. For these always accept
any explanation your hostess offers
without question. Nothing Is more em
barrassing for a hostess than to be
pushed to the wall when she has made
a statement why this thing has failed,
or that thing has not come off. Speak
ing of a desirable guest, a hostess said:
"Even If my excuses were pretty thin,
she always acted as if it were the most
likely thing in the world and my slight
est tarradiddles were accepted without
comment. I have had other guests who
always made it plain that they had
their own opinion."
Having spent the required time and
made one's self as agreeable as possible,
there remains the art of taking leave.
In the first place, there Is the ques
tion of the servants and their tips.
There are hostesses who make it plain
that their servants are not to be tipped.
But these are as rare as snow in May.
It is not necessary to remember any
except those servants with whom one
comes In contact. Most people have a
rule which they always follow. For
example, they give to the chambermaid '
and the waitress the same sum. a dol
lar, or 50 cents, as they choose. Others
send the same sum to the cook. If one
drives or motors, the chauffeur and the
coachman are apt to expect some rec
ognition. Everything, however, depends
oft the style in which the household is
organized, and one must use one's own
discretion.
But let no one be tyrannized by the
situation, and remember that many ser
vants are more satisfied with pleasant
words and an agreeable manner accom
panying small tips than with larger and
more perfunctory gifts accompanying
scant manners. If extraordinary de
mands are made on the servants, they
should be remembered accordingly, of
course.
When the time of leaving comes
around, have everything in readiness,
so that even the most perfunctory
"can't you stay longer" of your hostess
and there are such old-fashioned
hostesses will not permit you to make
any change either in her plans or
yours. When home, do not fall to write
what is known as your "bread and but
ter letter," recalling the pleasure of
your visit and thanking her for it.
Now, to say a few general words
about your wardrobe. '
Take enougli clothes, but not too
many. It is foolish to be always chang
ing one's clothes. Freshness is the note
of the morning freshness in cotton or
linen. If sports are in order.! come to
breakfast ready for the gime. No
change is required for luncheon unless
ic is made formal by Invited guests.
In the afternoon, if there is motoring
or driving, which include visits bv the
w-ay. wear a suitable visiting gown. For
dinner formality is required, and. if
possible, take two dinner gowns, with
their accompaniments. Have your
clothes In perfect order. Nothing is so
boring as guests who must always have
something done to their costumes be
fore they can be put on.
In your private room be considerate.
For example, don't He down on the lace
spread, or sit on the edge of the bed
and crease the covering. Be careful
about laying down a match until it is
fully out. lest It burn the bureau or
table cover. Do you think these are idle,
admonitions? They are not. Country
houses have been closed to attractive
guests for Just such trivial reasons.
PRI'PENTE STANniSTT
SUMMER
Demand Warm Baths With
SOAP
And gentle applications of
Cuticura Ointment to soothe
and dispel summer eczemas,
prickly heat, itchings, chaf
ings, sunburn, . bites and
stings: For everyday use
in preserving, purifying and
beautifying baby's tender
skin Cuticura Soap and Cuti
cura Ointment have no rivals
worthy of mention.
r5
CUTICURA
1