Present Season
in the Way of
Local Shcms Show
1 ab ora.t of t . nlTtrTn a -ei ? OI
&
AMONG, the things interesting to. the
feminine eye and ruinous to the ex
chequer of the too enthusiastic shop
per, now being displayed In local depart
ment stores and outfitting shops, are the
new opera cloaks and different styles of
evening coats and capes.
Throughout the great variety, which
ranges from the simplest of little shoulder
capes to the most elaborate of long opera
wraps in tine, soft broadcloth or rich lace,
the new offerings are distinguished by
a charm and dash of style that make it
seem a far cry. Indeed, back to the
clumsy fussiness of the conventional eve
ning wrap of only a few seasons since.
The long, graceful lines, and the effec
tive simplicity of the mode In gowns and
street suits, are echoed in the designs of
these new displays, the beautiful soft
tones of the fine broadcloths and the
sheen of satins under rich laces lending
themselves most artistically to the
sweeping length of line and the graceful,
half-defined curves of the mode.
Some Leading Modes Shown.
A few of the representative patterns
selected at random from the all but un
limited variety being shown In the shops
have been sketched by The Oregonian
ru'ratlon. 8hWn U,e ccying
The tendency of the modish gown to
run to buttons- finds an echo in the
long capo sketched in No. 1. which sug-K-ts
the "live hundred button1' eccen-
Y wh,c, recently furnished such ma
teria, for th cmic ar(tat a
Jtrapher. even though it is seldom sen on
T "Tl- Th" rape 1s "f biscuit
colored broadcloth, with fmn h
DeatiiZone on Streetcar Tracks Must Go
Chicago demands faction Company Chang Lines at Any Expense-Windy City as Plav Pro
ducer-Commercial Tourists Value Portland Weaiher hv aSST 7
..Tr-,.B7,OXATHA PALMER
irui.Aw, June 26. (Special.) "Help
This is not an invocation for the pro
tecting arm of the deity, but a plea from
the v.hlcago traction companies to the
car-riding public to co-operate with them
n ving lives and limbs. It is posted
in tne most conspicuous place in the cars
that he who rides may read. Backing it
up Is a series of "Don'ts." in which the
passenger is told how not to get on and
off ears and is admonished against other
iihiikcfous actions.
t-o intent have been the companies te
....... 's on me public that they
have overlooked a few things they might
have done themselves In safeguarding
human life. Because they overlooked
T."'10 has what has aptly been
called the zone of death", or "the death
strip In the rehabilitation of the most
despicable streetcar system In the world
the companies put Into service the finest
C?Z"J? the world to date and they pro
vided for them a roadbed that can hardly
b excelled anywhere. But and here is
where the "lone of death" came to be
they placed the tracks so close together
and made the cars so comfortablv wide
that they left a space of only eight inches
.. CRrs JassinK each other in oppo
se directions. In this space 24 persons
T !Tn. caunt- roed and squeezed
to death since rehabilitation. Once a vle
nL ln h strip he has no
Twelves fr Ufe than fl twa
Say Death Zone Must Go.
-Mllmber"1 amor, recent victims was a
mell-known college professor. Ten davs
I-mi. tlT carpenter lost his life
htle thousands surged about him in
F ate street Practically every bone In
his upper body was broken, whereat the
cumulating indignation broke out in a
torm and a popular demand that the
tfeath .one carnaKe cease. There are only
ii.r.m.T." w nd "-reliabilltate the re-habtlltatlon-that
I. tear up and reset i
Has Wid VviHr
Opera Cloaks and Evening Capes
iuaw i;nann ana
tons in black, with
rn! 1 -a rf s. ; . .
and running down the full length nt ih..
wrap at the sides are used as a trimming
' "-iii ueing lerc open only a suf
ficient space to provide arm-holes. The
cut of the wrap is tn the circular fashion,
and a deep seam, running from neck to a
point below the waist at the back, adjusts
the back breadth to the shoulders.
The "Juliette" cape Is one of the lead
ing novelties of the season, and is to be
had in many grades and numerous pretty
soft blendings of color. The one sketched
in No. 4 is of a vapor gray novelty cloth
much like the soft clinging "Nunsveil
lng of a few seasons ago, onlv the tex
ture Is of a heavier grade. The lining
Is of vapor gray silk, and the buttons,
tailored straps covering the shoulder
seams, and the turn-down collar of satin
are all of the same delicate gray tone!
The capo is in one piece, cut circular
and .the whole garment is innocent of
seam except at the shoulder, where two
short seams, covered by the stitched
straps, aro necessary to adjust the ful
ness to the shoulders and neck. Some of
the capes of this type have slits- left open
Tor the arms, and others are without
these, openings.
The Rich "Kimono Coat."
A simple "kimono coat." yet most effec
tive for wear with an elaborate evening
gown. Is sketched In No. 3. Tt Is of
fine broadcloth of a heavy cream tone,
so rich as to all but run into vellow
and the broad revers and collar, and the
broad border of the sleeves are in the
smart tobacco brown tone, of soft rich
satin.
Of the more "FlutTv Bnmi,"
- - 1
the tracks farther apart or use narrower
cars. In either case the cost will run
into millions and the service, just becom
ing excellent,- will be demoralized for
months again. The public is determined
however, that traction millions shall not
!"' against human life. There is t
demand not only for remedy of the en
"""""S wrong, but also for criminal
prosecution of those who made the sacri
fice of hfe possible. Warning against the
"""" "one was sounded before rehabili
tation began, but it went unheeded. Now
somebody will have to pay a big price for
a big blunder.
Play-Producing in Chicago.
Driven to more congenial fields by the
blase "first-nighters" of Broadway, the
atrical managers are making Chicago a
close second to New York as a play
producing town. During the season just
c osing Chicago musical comedies have
Iif2m,a business aggregating over
J .000.000 tn gross receipts. Of seven mu
sical productions under the direction of
one amusement com-pany whose base of
Sr? ",' J" Chlcaeo' n Pyed to
JL11.000 of business, another to $170 000. a
third to $139,000. a fourth to $165 000 a
fifth to $120,000 and a sixth to $69 000 '
Long runs of successful pieces are be
coming so common that an engagement
of six months excites no comment. A few
years ago such a stay in any one house
would have been looked upon as phenom
enal. It is a fact, however, that the more
popular of musical comedies will nil local
houses every night of the week for an
indefinite period. n
It means somethlne- tn n i
big producing center. It means" Chat hun
dreds of actors, chorus members and the
atrical attaches of various kinds help
to make up the cosmopolitan life of the
place. MTork is afforded for authors, com
posers, costume-makers, scenic artists
advertising bureaus, lithographers, stage
hands and managerial staffs.
ProdtKers of drama proper are coming
more and more to look to Chicago for
THE SUNDAY
offrt
boulder Coverings to the Most
uasn in All Styles.
. 1 ..
. f !?? . of the garment heng
or lignt-welght champagne broadcloth,
eageo. witn s. double row of brown silk
ribbon, and the yoke-colIn- being of rich
all-over lace upon a foundation of cream
silk For the debutante, with her charm
ing bloom of youth and her dainty ruffles
this cloak is particularly suitable. '
Afternoon and Evening Wear.
Among the attractions for the shopper
who must consider the practical and
stretch her wardrobe allowance to cover
many needs. Is the style of long coat
sketched in No. 6, suitable for afternoon
or evening wear, and which may be worn
for mere warmth over a light-weight
gown on a Summer evening, as well as
doing acceptable service as a wrap over
elaborate theater or dinner gown. The
coat shown is of heavy cream serge
with trimmings of buttons and braid in
cream, and is .lined throughout with
cream silk. It Is. a garment which may
go many times to the "cleaners without
suffering ruin, and which the woman of
limited income will appreciate for Its
double utility.
Among the very newest displays are the
filmy mantillas of rich laces and embroid
ered veiling, of which one hears rumors
from Paris. These are to be worn as
a. combined head covering and shoulder
wrap, and a dainty model in pink and
gray, of some fine silken mesh, is shown
in sketch No. 2. In the Eastern centers
of fashion, these mantillas are said to
be coming into vogue quite noticeablv.
and the advance showings in the locai
shops are quite dainty and fascinating
enough to win them a wide share of popu
larity, assuredly among the debutante..
original verdicts on new pieces. During
the season now closing more than a
dozen dramas were seen here for the
first time on any stage. The change
from New York was In most Instances
so agreeable that experiments of the
kind will be much extended next season.
New Ycrk has several thousand Broad
way habitues of more or less wealth who
have standing orders for first night tick
ets. Producers find it exceedingly hard
to wring favorable receptions from them
The frost of the first-nighter has put a
permanent blight on many a piece which
with a little concession and chance for
remodeling, might have scored ultimate
successes. Such opportunitv is more lib
erally given in Chicago than in the
Eastern metropolis, and experience shows
that the rest of the countrv ;s quite as
well disposed to accept a Chicago judgment-
oe a.. S- ; . .
a mK me ijotnam imprint.
Object to "Hoodoo" Numbers.
Supposed "hoodoos" involved in the
numbers 13 and 23 are very real things to
a lot of Chicagoans who are not mem
bers of the theatrical or gambling fra
ternities. The fact has been impressively
brought out during the process by the
city map department of readjusting street
numbers. The most frequent complaint
is made against 13. It is found hidden in
all sorts of combinations of figures. One
man vehemently objected to having his
property numbered 2462 because the digits
added to gether make 13. Another set
up a howl because 169 was 13 times 11
A third protestant was against 1S08
"If you divide 18 bv 2." he sain
get 9. and if you divide 8 by 2 you get 4,
The clerk to whom this array of math
ematics was presented is still trying to
figure out what' it means.
The objection to 23 is less complicated.
The younger generation doesn't like It
because so much sport is made of the
combination as the "sklddoo number."
Men of sportive proclivities
it because, they say, 23 never wins iu
OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND,
rouietie. Accments in mining drifts, in
lake cribs and elsewhere, in which "23"
figured, have been cited over and over
again as tending to show that the combi
nation is one to be shunned.
No Crowd at Auto Race.
Chicago's hoi polloi. the rank and file,
the great unclassified, did not come up
to the .scratch set for them by the en
thusiastic promoters of the big automo
bile races. The railroads had been led
to believe some 400,000 men. women and
children would drop down to Crown
Point. Ind.. to see the speed demons do
time around a 23-mile course. Let it be
said in a whisper that hardly a total
of 50.000 was present on the two days.
Most of the grandstand at $5 a seat was
a waste of emptiness. One enterprising
citizen of Crown Point, foreseeing an
avalanche of Chicago dollars, had In
vested $3000 of his perfectly good money
in a little private stand. On the big
day there were seated in this structure
just 31 persons. Indiana sandwiches
quoted to begin with at 25 cents apiece!
dropped to two for a nickel. Even at
that thousands of them went to feed the
-uiL-n.ens ana tne pigs the next day.
-ine party of the first part the Chicago
Autoinobile Club carried out its job on
a big scale. It spent $30,000 to build the
course, paid the First Regiment, Illinois
-.mU,.i uuara, ,ouu to guard it and in
vested another $30,000 in a grandstand
fences, publicity and other necessary ex-
m...oc. wwiu-rs oi tne cars spent at
.aoi iou,uuu xor tne 13 hours of actual
running and demonstration. They do
not begrudge the money, but tney are
sorry the crowds were not larger so that
the advertising benefit might have been
oK.eau out over a greater buying area.
Ask the average Chicagoan who at
..ucvi .no races wnat he thought of
them, and he will say the keen zest of
competition, that is the life of horse-
io'.hi, 1001-racing and even blcvcle
racing Is lacking in an mtnninMu '
test In the first place the cars do not
riWi l"se!"fr- ,lney lave the getaway
point at intervals of a minute. Unde
this arrangement the spectator ' hasn't
the faintest idea who is making the best
fif i timekeepers announce the
A"er a few ,aP8 the ""river
,i ' nls wheel and his
il "1. 1 n.B curves. does not know
how. he stands ln the race or who are
"' "" to-Be feared as the con-
... ueveiups.
It is a thrilling spectacle to see a car
tearing down a stretch of straightaway at
f 2T,,aS our-,but a a dozen cars
have whisked past, one by one. the nov
elt of it wears off and ennui begins
to make itself felt among the onlookers
Vm Up ,"Tver was a bi event more
strongly exploited than this, and never
was the response of the public so coolly
expressed. For Chicago hand out a base
ball game with the Cubs or Sox leading.
Watch Immigrants at Chicago.
ChIT'8 V: rge foreS" element in
J .,?nd lts dlsPrPortionate marriage
.h ratS SS comPared with native
born citizens, mention of which was made
in a recent letter to The Oregonian. word
now comes unofficially from Washington
hi. mmigratlon office 13 be es
sre s'aM l' The Fedral authorities
tt l l . nf"! reached- the conclusion
It is as important to have a station here
Chf,0Jl the A"ant" a" Pacific coasts
nointa?0a,J hardl5r b Ca,Ied a "Primary.
Sr. ir , '""grants in the sense that
New York and San Francisco are, but it
nln?C,f, Jen5ezu r those who come
VI ? dur "m over ln Canada. And It is
telt the Government would do well to
ac,,vitaesClnere. f lm'S-nt
" 18 a"spected that many of the im
migrant frauds on the Coasts have had
their Inspiration in Chicago sources, es
pecially those which have to do with the
illegal importation of laborers. The lake
metropolis is looked upon as a clearing
house for the distributing
A.Jcal-,mmigration station might also
Ti m F.CK1DS tne operations of the so
called "Black Hand."
Great Amphitheater Scheme.
- Because many of the great National
conventions of the future, as in the past
cent..'."!6 ?, this Clty 1" amount o? ,t8
central location and nn,nji. ..., -
cilities. a project is well on , , "
the building of an amphitheater to ac
commodate 45.000 persons. Big as it Is
the Coliseum is quite inadequate for Na
tional political convention i
shows, automobile, shows and other an-
..uii exniDits tnat have become a recog
nized part of the city's social, - political
and commercial life. The plans submit
ted call for a site to cost $400,000 and a
building involving an outlay of $2 500 000
to $3,000,000. The projectors, whose
spokesman is Harlow N. Higinbotham. a
leader in World's Fair matters, want to
reproduce the Coliseum at- pnmo
such modifications as modern needs sug-
T, Z, . V "-";-"'. wnicn will be el
liptical, is designed to cover fu
of ground, oeing 600 feet long. 340 feet
STAGE REALISM IN MRS. FISKE'S NEW PLAY
Production of
'Salvation Nell,"
NEW meaning of the term "stage
realism" will be unfolded to theater-goers
here when Mrs. Fiske
brings her wonderful play. "Salvation
Nell." to the Bungalow Theater for three
nights commencing Monday, July 5.
The critics who have witnessed it have
hailed it as an epoch-making drama.
They pronounce it the equal, if not the
superior, of most of the continental pro
ductions, and radically different from the
usually atmospheric and Illusive exhi
bitions which have to this day been con
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MRS. F1SKE, AS SALVATIO, NEIiC, AXD HOLBROOK BUX,. AS J,M PLATT, Iv SALVATIOr KKI , . !
W THE Bl'SGAlOW, JILV 5, 6, 7. M'ISr SALVATION aLLL,"
A
JUNE 27, 1909.
ir Mi it
wiae ana 100 feet high. The tier seats
around the arena will seat 35,000 and the
arena itself another 10,000. -
Too Cold for Baseball in June.
Chicago Aociatlon of Commerce tour
ists got home from Portland and the
Northwest just in time to miss drawing
empirical comparisons between the June
weather here and that on the Coast. They
were not here, for instance, to under
stand why a1 baseball game should have
been postponed on June 15 because the
rtS ?r.WJS tCO co,d for the Payers to
risk their fingers. Nor did they see that
delectable sight a chap moving down
through the crowds in State street with
a Jaunty straw hat perched on the top of
nls head and a pair of ear muff, nn Cl
ears. They did not hear the steam whist-
5 i , m raalators In skyscraper offices
and in flats, nor did thev see th h
overcoat collars turned up closely about
u8 oi joy rwers ln the Lake Shore
Drive, else they might have hurt
more delightful memories of the Portland
Higher Tax on Inheritances.
Illinois has a new inheritance tax law
which is expected to put l,500.0p0 Into
the state treasury within the next 12
months. Two-thirds of this amount will
come from such large estat is as that of
Marshall Field. Otto Tm,
whose fortunes ran into eight figures. By
the new law the tax upon direct heirs on
all inheritances of over $100,000 is raised
per cent to z per cent on the
amount received. In rases
bers of the immediate family of the de-
are ma Denenclarles the tax will
be $3 on every $100 of market value if th
amount exceeds $100,000. and $1 for each
$100 when it Is between J"(l nun on tmn
000. Where the beneflclnriea m
tives farther removed the tax will be $4
. .inn oneuiuea limitations, and in other
cases there will be a graded tax of from
$4 to $6 when the amount inherited
ranges from $10,000 up to $100,000.
Another has been added to the myster
ies with which the Chicago police have to
deal- Mrs. Hayden B. Harris, wife of a
Which Is to Be Seen in Portland
Satisfying.
sidered . by the American . Public as the
perfection of realism.
Naturalness seems to be - the keynote
of Mrs. Fiske and Harrison Grey Fiske's
stags management of "Salvation Nell."
It is a story of the Cherry Hill district
of New Tork City. The first act, show
ing Kid McGovern's barroom, and the
third act. showing a tenement-house sec
tion, have been pronounced masterpieces
of construction. The production is so
massive that it is a wonder Mr Fiske
would venture to take it Into a terri
ON
CORSET;
PPEAL to every'
ates Elegance
witlTStyle, Fit andTPerfect Comfort.
Theyjareitheiembodiment.of.thc.Highest
.Art,vthedeepest.ScienceTin Corsetry.
BON TON corsets
(the Parisian name for beautiful form) are
jusrwhat their name implies thei secret: of
the Form Beautiful the-correct:foundatioa
f or: theimodish gowns. AsKltoiseeithe: new
BON TON models. Fashioned ;from ba
tisteiorrcoutil and. SOLD BY LEADING
PEALERS,,PRICES $3150 to $12.
ROYAL WORCESTER
CORSET COS
MAKERS
Royal Worcester Corsets $i to $3
and ADJUSTO Corsets $3and$5
SEND FOR. THE 1909
wealthy banker, reported the loss of a
$3000 necklace at a wedding which she
attended at 3:45 in the afternoon in a
South Side church. She said she wore
the jewel to the church. At a pawnshop
It was learned later that the jewel had
been "soaked" at 1 o'clock in the after
noon, two and three-quarter hours -before
the wedding, for $150 cash. The woman
who pawned the jewel was richly gowned
,and wore other beautiful gems. She
closely resembled Mrs. Harris and wore
clothes like those of Mrs. Harris. The
address she gave proved to be a vacant
lot.
One of the puzzles in the case is the re
markable coincidence of resemblance be
tween the woman who last the gem and
the woman who pawned it. The other,
of course, is tne time equation. Mrs. Har
ris and all her friends resent anv inti
mation that she herself visited the
pawnshop, hence the alternative is up to
made every reasonable effort to locate the
the police to find the person who did.
Under the laws of Illinois it is a crime
to sell the lost property of another and
to keep the money without first having
owner. That's why the police seek to
know who .was the mysterious "L.
Sloane" who pawned Mrs. Harris' neck
lace. Mrs. Harris is the daughter or
Professor Albion W. Small, of the Uni
versity of Chicago, and an estimable
young woman whose popularity in society
is unquestioned. .
UNIFORMS MUST BE WORN
Kaiser "Advises" Officers of Guard
3fot to Doff "Mufti."
BERLIN, June 26. (Special.) Officers
of the garrisons of Berlin. Potsdam and
other places in the neighborhood of the
capital, have received instructions, which
are said to have come direct from the
Kaiser, to limit as much as possible their
wearing of civilian clothes. The Kaiser,
It is said, does not snnrnva if th
lng tendency, especially among officers of
Soon, Declared by Critics Most
tory where the expense of traveling is so
tugh.
The Manhattan company, the largest
dramatic company on tour, will be in sun
port of Mrs. Fiske. There are over 40
parts in the play." but in filling them all
M;..Fke has not had to lower class
of his famous organization in a iinglc in
stance. A few of the principal plavers
are: Holbrook Blinn. Henry WenmarT W
T. Clarke. Herbert Heywood. Marv Madi
son, Hope Iatham. Grace Shanlev,
Mary Maddern, Merle Maddern and Gilda
Varesi.
TON
woman .who; appreci
and Beauty combined1
728 mission' Street
SAN.FRANCISCO
ALSO OF
ROYAL BLUE BOOK
the Guard, to appear off duty in mufti,
and advice little short of command has
been issued to this corps not to come to
Berlin in any other dress that the
"Kaiser's coat." .
It is urged that the presence of officers
in uniform is necessary in Berlin, where
there are so many soldiers on the street,
who are apt to slacken in their discipline
unless constantly under the eye of su
periors in uniform. But probably the real
reason for the latest instruction in this
matter is the growing practice among
young officers of doffing their uniforms
when engaged on a "bummel." There
are. of course, numerous places of amuse
ment in Berlin largely frequented by of
ficers in civilian clothes, where the pres
ence of uniforms would cause something
like astonishment. But. on the whole,
these regulations are falling gradually
into disuse.
Dinner Menus
for the Week
Tuesday.
Broiled Beefsteak. Maltre d'hotel - butter.
Peas. New Potatoes.
Lettuce Hearts, stuffed. Mayonnaise.
Strawberries and- Cream.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Chartreuse of Beet wf'h Lettuce . Greens
and new Vti . .Abies.
Cucumber and Watercress Salad Cheese
Wafers.
Deep Cherry Tart.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Strips of Veal. Breaded. Potatoes.
Stuffed Baked Tomatoes.
Lettuce with Sliced Bg-g French Dressing.
Strawberry Shortcake.
Friday.
Baked Sea Trout. Cucumbers. '
Creamed Potatoes.
' Tomato Salad
Cherry Sherbet. Spice Cakes.
Coffee. -Saturday.
Lamb Chops. Planked. Mashed Potatoes.
New Beets with Asparasui Tips.
Gooseberry Fool.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Fruit 'Cocktail.
Fanned Chicken. New Potatoes Browned.
String Beans.
Lettuce ,and Tomato Salad.
Vanilla Partalt. cherry sauce.
Coffee.
Monday. ' -v
Polish Buck Brown Sauce.
Mashed Potatoes. Peas.
Mixed V esetable Salad Mayonnaise
Strawberry Junket.
Coffee.
PRIESTS IN WILL SCANDAL
Portuguese Woman- Said to Have
Been Forced to Change Will.
LISBON. June 26. (Special.) An extra
ordinary scandal has arisen in Lisbon in
connection with the will of the late Coun
tess de Camarido. one of the wealthiest
and most distinguished members of the
Portuguese aristocracy, and a frequent
visitor at court, who died bequeathing
the bulk of her extensive property to
various religious orders.
The announcement of ' the bequest
caused general surprise, and the rela
tives of the deceased lady attacked the
will, declaring that undue influence must
have been brought jto bear on her mind.
An investigation was begun and, accord
ing to the Seculo. it has now been proved
that priests belonging to the orders in
question had so worked upon the weak
mind of the Countess as to induce her to
alter her will in their favor. It is stated
that under the pretext of saving her soul,
the priests forced her to append her sig
nature to a will practically disinheriting
all the members of the family in favor
of the religious orders.
The property in dispute is valued at
over two million pounds, and is chiefly
composed of land and buildings in Lisbon.
ASK BETTER MAIL SERVICE
Forest Grove People Make Appeal to
Vncle Sam's Generosity.
FOREST GROVE-Or.. June 2.-fSpe-cial.)
A movement is to be started here
to petition the Postoffice Department for
a more adequate train mail service As it
Is now, the service is but little better
than it was 20 years ago. because there
is. but one afternoon train east-bound
carrying the mail and the pouches at the
local postoffice close at 3:30 P. M., instead
of 4:10 P. M. before the change of sched--ule
on the Southern Pacific.
It is generally held that Forest Grove
should have a later train for - Portland
bound mail. It has been suggested that
arrangements might be effected with the
Oregon Electric for a mail train to leave
this city at 6 P. M. It Is honori t !i..
Hlllsboro in the movement f. ik.
same conditions exiet there ' anrt th.
growth of the two towns demands a mor
adequate mall service. The matter will
first be taken up with the representatives
In Congress,