.
fti.MJAV UKt,UOXlA.N, I'OKTLANU, J.UXJK
Toilettes Suitable for Picnic Wear
ICXKT' means virtually every
"nrt of Summer excursion where
clothes are concerned. Some
thing suitable In style and color to a
festive day outdoors, which shall bo be
coming and In a way very smart, yet
sufficiently set.eible to suit the wear and
tear of roaming over hills, along wooded
paths, and possibly being on dancing
little boats. A costume designed especial
ly for such service Is not obligatory, of
course, but since the world overflows with
picnickers In Summer, fashion always
pays them special attention.
The simple and yet graceful little toll
ettea here shown dl?play some of the
good dame's Ideas for her frolicking
daughters. All of the gowns are designed
for Inexpensive materials, but If there Is
no time to make the dress at home, fac
similes of the same things may be found
In the shops at very low prices.
Figure A Is a dressy gown which would
be lovely in any pure white lingerie
material with Valenciennes Insertion
used as -In the model, and the waist
girdled In the same: way with a bright
ribbon rash. The blouse and skirt are
separate, with the bodice finished at the
neck with a Dutch collar and becoming
Jabot. But as this low style Is not suited
to ail throats, the model has the ad
vantage of permitting a straight stock or
slightly V-shaped cut.
Y.tton crepe with embroidered dots,
which seiin for SO cents a yard and Is
quite wide, would realize this dress ef
fectively, a somewhat heavier lace than
alenrlennea should be used In this case
but whatever the choice in the lace It
red not cost more than 10 cents a yard
while th-re are trim little Insertions
which sell even cheaper. As both the
flounce and the skirt are cut on the
straight the dress would not lose Its shape
with washing.
If color Is liked for the design, any
of the flowered muslins -which sell from
IS cents up would create a very festive
effect, and a cheap insertion could be
made from yard-wide point desprit cut
In strips of the required width.
For a dress after this model the me
dium figure will require ten or eleven
yards of muslin and I45i yards of lace
bandinsf.
The hat that Is shown w-Ith this dress
Is a peach basket shape of rough straw
with roses of sattn ribbon and tailored
bard of black velvet. Plain white cot
ton twilling shapes the neat parasol.
Figure h shows an effect which could
be made In fancy batiste at 12 Vi cents
r. yard, and which would be as pretty
In figured calico or ginghams. The
rroorl Ss also beautifully adapted tc
fewlse. lawn or pongee.
Th!s dress Is in semi-princess style
which is to say that the skirt and'
bodice are Joined by means of a belt
consisting of two strips of Insertion;
but the costume may also very well be
nPG.e in two pieces. The square neck
and -slightly shortened sleeves make
the little rlfr especially Bulted to young
K'.rA though a youthful matron could
W'(L the d.'eSS with nprfnpf nrnnrUh.
-i-incn goons is chosen, 10 to
12 yards of material for the dress it
selJ will be required by the medium
figure. For the trimming five-eighths
of a yard of lace or embroidery will
make the yoke, and three yards of in
sertion and two cf edging the fixings
for t'.-.e rest of the bodice.
With an all-white dress, a bright
re or apple green parasol would be
charming, anil I must tell you that a
dc'lar and a half will buy such a pretty
sunshade. A wide straw hat trimmed
wlh field flowers and knots of black
velvet would maky a suitable headpiece
to go with this model.
A smart and useful costume which Is
gocd fcr all-round wear is displayed in
flprure O. Made of light weight wool in
shepherd's check,, with a banding of
fancy braid or black taffeta bias, such
a gown would be invaluable to the
woman who often takes little train or
hoat trips, and it would set off a slim,
pretty figure to perfection. The high
stock shown in the smaller drawing
would be a useful addition to the dress
If m.ido separately, as this permits the
substitution of a dressier neck fixing
for the little hotel dinner or theater
party, for. of course, one does not
expect tho excursionist of a day or
two to dress too finely.
Bright red. blue and tan linens are
materials especially suited to boating,
and the stitched bands, which call for
no additional expense, provide stylish
trimmings. Such scant princess styles
as this one are Immensely fashionable,
and despite the seemingly difficult look
of them they are really very easy to
make by anyone with an average
knowledge of home dressmaking. Tn
the making 10 yards of goods 27
inches wide, or 6 -i yards 44 Inches
wide, will be required by the medium
figure.
Th( tailored ha worn with the model
nnd which could tie made very easily
at home by covering a buckram shape
with black taffeta or brown pongee is
most stylishly suited to the dress.
K frock that spells a ver.y good plc
nlo time, indeed, for some' small girl
is reproduced in figure P.
There are some excellent features
about this little dress, for while suiting
Itself to the roughest wear and hottest
FIGURE D. J j
day, only a high-necked and long
sleeved guimpe would be needed to
make it comfortable for chilly weather
and stylish enough for other than play
occasions.
The dress is most useful for the
rough and tumble of a joyous outdoor
FIGURE A.
day. if made in one piece, and gingham, slon days, let me suinrest to thn t
1 S VZZLX 'hVd """"enld Tutts
iVl A R x DEAN.
Beauty's Picnic Secrets
AIjOIsO- day spent out doors Is the
hardest of all days on looks. Hair
artificially crimped has a hateful
way of losing its pretty curl at once,
rouge will show nine times out of ten,
and unrouged cheeks frequently grow
pale and wan 'before the day Is over-
that is. if they are not burned a lobster
red by the Summer sun, wliich also has
a nasty habit of giving not a few pic
nicking daughters of Eve a lot of horrid
freckles.
What Is the remedy? Simply that
beauty's picnic toilet must be begun sev
eral days before the Important one. It
Is not a matter for a brief hour or so.
but one for a good half week.
Let me begin with the hair which needs
to be well washed, beautifully burnished
and carefully curled, that it may be at its
beet -when Its owner so longs to look her
best in the sight of her fun-seeking com
panions. For almost every head two raw eggs
aria four tablespoons of castile soap pow
der make the best shampoo I can recom
mend. Eggs are nourishing to the scalp,
castile soap the least harmful .of all
kinds of hair washing, and If rain water
is used and the tresses dried in the sun,
they will be left soft, bright and beau
tiful. Blonde hair, however, is slightly
darkened by the egg wash, and very oily
hair may need something more drying.
In this case try the following formula for
the shampoo:
Bicarbonate of soda, ii ounce; borax. 4
ounce; Cologne water, 2 ounces; rectified
spirits, 1 ounce; tincture of cochineal, V4
ounce: distilled water. 16 ounces.
Mix and agitate thoroughly,- and. use
like any shampoo. Also dry the hair
thoroughly immediately after every wash,
for continued dampness spoils the texture
and encourages a disagreeable odor.
For hair that flies about wilfully af
ter a wash until the natural oils are re
newed, a little of this cream, rubbed into
the scalp, will bring becoming order and
burnish:
1. Almond cream, 1 drachm; chloride
of pilocarpine. drachm; glycerine. 1
ounce. 1. Oil of amvedalin 1 mincer
lanoline. 1 drachm; attar of roses. 8 drops.
4. lim-iure of cantharides. 2 drachms;
emer-nower water. 4 ounces.
Mix separately the first two lots: add
No. 2 to No. 1 gradually, stirring inces
santly; then pour in No. 3 In a slow.
ing. in which very neat insertions may
be had for a few cents a yard.
For a 10-year-old girl of medium fig
ure this model requires 64 yards of
material 24 inches wide.
As some species of wrap is likely to
be needed by many persons for excur-
thin stream, stirring again in the former
way to prevent the emulsion from sep
arating. This cream is as healing and cleansing
as it is softening, but unfortunately the
formula calls for considerable expense.
Short purses,, therefore, should turn to
glycerine and ricp-n-a tor n..i. it
- ' . ' a. UM.1B HiriL-
ed and perfumed beef marrow for the
jzuiii hi mese simple things
especially the marrow are excellent for
A good curling fluid, which is especial
ly adapted to dry, stiff hair, is as fol
lows r
Gum arable mucilage. H4 ounces; gly
cerine. 1 ! - Ounces f hnnoA " . i
. uuua.c fji yoiaJill,
13 ounces; rose-water, 2 pints; Portugal
Dissolve the carbonate in the rose
water, add e-lvcerlne tn h t . . . ,
tract, shake thoroughly, then put in the
mucila.ee A ft r,,.tv, i,t.i
11 bi-x-s.iii-, put ev
erything together, and let the -mixture
... - ween oeiure using.
This Will fluff n,1 Ho.l,tW
. o..0HU- VtttVO UIS
hair without other curling, but If a deep
" " v " ' ucouea use Kia curlers or strips
of rag w-Rh it. The fluid keeps the curl
In for several days, often a week
And now the matter next in importance
the complexion: for i !,.,., j
magnificent heads, the beauty of the hair
c n tn i. cr 1'n.. t.. . . . .
c oi me countenance
even.
The first chapter in the book for the
skin's treatment begins with the words
Soap and Water. It is impossible to have
a skin in a healthy condition and look as
-- . wunout a complete and
daily wash. TVn-ee u .... j. .
... . r " ' 1. 1' wna ausi,
Which if left In. becomes the disfiguring
pimpies, lnnamed cheeks red
noses and goodness knows what else
come from blackheads: and these be-
01a.BB or actual sickness, are
certainlv distrusting n
Pooh!" says some girl here, "every
. i uuiQ Buap ana water." True
I admits hut yto t. .. - ..
-. - -..... . uuijt uecause tney
bave not been used to the dally or even
.uv.cra uo.i-1. every part of tn,
body must c-et - : .
. u , " '--sniie. ana
i .If face esPecia"y sensitive
... u,.u-,uaI lning. tsut when it is
once habituated h..
.. rtiivitrauilie bcriju
it win pant and gasp, so to sp.-ak like
a fish out of water if it goes to bed a
single nleht will..-..,! i.
1-et me take this sensitive skin into
consideration. Prepare the way for the
bath with a good coating of cold cream,
rubbing thjs well into the pores and re
moving the surplus afterwards with a
soft rag. A piece of fine old undervest
is admirable for this purpose, and if the
cast-away garment is of silk, all the bet
ter. The cieam takes off the first dirt
and prepares the way for the scrub.
tTse an almond meal bag for this, shak
ing its contents into warm water till it
is milky. If the water must be further
softened add a pinch of borax. Wash the
face with the hands alone, using the
fingers in massage style over every spot.
When the skin has become sturdier, buy
the best which means the purest soap
the market affords and wash the same
way with it, for all things said and done,
there is no cleanser like soap.
Granted now that the face which would
be bright and blooming all day on the
outdoor excursion has been scrubbed for
some nights in this way, and massaged
and douched if this is found beneficial
with warm end chill sprays besides, re
member that the day's cosmetic must be
put on over very little cold cream if
you would avoid tan and freckles and
have your complexion stay on.
It is a good idea. too. to arrange for a
Beauty outfit when planning for the day.
for then roses and lilies may be renewed
at odd moments. A little book of powder
leaves is the most convenient way of
carrying, this embellisher: and if a little
rosiness imperative, put it on with a
light hand. One end of a little rag
smeared with rouge may decently sum
mon a blush without the scandal of the
whole pot.
Wrap all the beautiflers In an old hand
kerchiefthis for the make-un raz and
put them in a corner of the handbag you
mean to take to the picnic, together with
a sman mirror, a comb and some extra
hairpins.
Some little refurbishinor nf
toilet is necessary several times during
the day If one would avoid the rag-tag
and bob-tall look so manv nicnicke.s
present when the fun Is over.
KATHERINE MORTON.
THE ART OF
THE VEIL
THE veil and the art of its wearing
will mark all of the season's varl
OlIS .TOTiirlnn. t ' ' . 1 .
J t- mo wearer s
ress be only Indifferently atviish is. .k
girl .even be plain. If she v,a L
mufrHn5 of the required stamp, and sports
wnn tne required air she mav to-
tlm list of the chosen.
In point of style, veils .iii, u
or young 22. as yon may say. or 60. The
oia iaay veils are those which cover only
the hat brim and fit snugly pver the face
such undecorated sorts as display plain
or dotted meshes, and em i -..-,
skimpy. The belles In veildom are the
ong draperies of beautifully colored chif
fon. With -1 Ml lm in nt i t 1. .1 i ,
- . . n u'ii 1 1.-1 ft , ana
the huge squares of lace webbing, which
with untold coquetries in the way of
borderings, are worn completely over the
hat.
The headpiece for the muffling worn
completely over the hat must be flatly
trimmed and have a down dropping brim
for the veils to show off to advantage.
VV herens tli T..n r v. : . "
' v mi it wrap so
gracefully around the throat, may accom-
x oiuc umea or mushroom hat with
equal art. They also look especially well
With the Afican llflmote d n 1 , 1. w 1.1
u.iu inn iirjiiive
and peach basket hats.
Apropos of the "hives." French taste
sprinkles a shower of scattered bees over
some of the square veils in lace webbing,
kiltings of lace or chiffon or narrow silk
fringes edging them.
None of the really coquettish veils is
cheap, and those which are especially
elaborate are appallingly dear. But a
person of taste could easily match many
of the materials by the yard, and get
borderings in the same way very nearly
akin to those employed upon the imported
veils. A mixture of white and violet,
brown and black, gray and blue are mod
ish lace effects to look for
Prettv veil nln.
i ' ' ! in uie lorm
of long stemmed lilies, fashioned entirely
e' t..-n mm wuiLe enamel.
For ordinary picnic or boating pur
poses, a plain chiffon veil In red-brown
may be advised, for this color and mesh
are about the only things which resist
tan. These are not dear as smart veils
go, for $2.50 will buy one in quite an ex
cellent quality.
The violet and blue tissue veils a blue
sometimes showing shadings that look
like faded streaks are the latest kink,
and there are some silvery blue follies
which are all. the world like pieces of
Summer sky.
Ah, me, why shouldn't women be lovely
under these radiant, becoming and ex
pensive masks? It Is asking too much of
any member of the sex to beware of this
extravagance so go to and be costly and
lovely.
'But treat your veil tenderly. A special
receptacle will keep the perishable webs
in the immaculate condition' they should
be in to look well. A French veil case
seemed for all the world like a big thin
book of some specially precious sort with
its delicate satin covers and ribbon tie
strings. The veils were to be put between
padded leaves, covered with thin silk and
deliciously scented. Such a receptable
you cuulU make yourself.
MART DEAN.
FIGURE C.
. , . . : i t
Etiquette for Man
THE small picnic Is usually a well
mannered affair, including, as it
does, only persons well-known to
one another. But it is the big picnic,
such gatherings as are made up of sever
al societies, a half dozen Sunday schools
FIGURE. B.
perhaps, and sometimes a goodly squad
of politicians, which is often a menace to
delicate and considerate behavior. Many
picnickers, unacquainted with one anoth
er, see no reason why they should be
over-punctlllous in the matter of man
ners when they are out for a good day's
fun. and In ways they can scarcely be
blamed. Nevertheless, as the whole ques
tion involves the dignity of both men and
women, it is necessary to do a little plain
talking with the Big Picnic subject. -
To begin with, mothers, dress your
daughters for the picnic in a little world
ly wisdom attire, yourselves with Dis
cretion, Pre-emptory Command and Un
sleeping Vigilance. Fathers, take your
sons aside and give them a little pre
liminary lesson on a gentleman's behavior
to defenseless womanhood, not even
omitting the silly girl. Ah, there is the
gist of my picnic argument. Both man
and maid are in danger of losing their
dignity, and, what is more important,
their good name on the jolly day if they
are not careful at every point in their
behavior to one another. The girl hurts
herself with too much freedom of man
ner, with any n-iove quite permissible per
haps on other occasions; and every time
a man takes advantage of some' maiden
silliness or other, he Is hurting his own
honor as well as the good name of his
fair companion or companions.
Deliver us from the appearance of evil
is quite as important supplication at this
development of society as it is to ask
Heaven to preserve us from actual sin.
Especially should one be most careful
not to do anything at a picpic that carries
with it the slightest chance for misin
terpretation to that class of human
beings who seemingly are always on- the
lookout to create gossip. For example,
a girl must not stray away from others
at the picnic with a young man she has"
only known for the day, and even an
engaged lover should deny himself' the
wish to take his "girl" to a sequestered
nook for the harmless joy of holding
hands, lest the scandal-monger put an
other interpretation on the act.. Dame
Gossip Is a person to be treated with re
spect, for once she has had her finger in
a reputation's pie the world is apt to
wink Its eye forever afterwards.
In the matter of picnic introductions,
it is a girl's duty to ask her parents or
guardians for the day if they approve
of her knowing the young man, . and it
is obligatory upon the man to make the
request for the introduction through some
one of the girl's friends.
If this means fails there are a dozen
decent ways for young folks to become
acquainted in more informal ways. It is
correct for a man to pay the older wo
men of a perfectly unknown party polite
attentions when the occasion demands
them. But if .he wishes to continue the
.acquaintance, he should after a bit intro
duce himself by presenting his visiting
and business card; and then if these
ladies have "sized him up" agreeably
they may present him to the young
daughter or niece in whom his interest
Is naturally centered.
But with this point .achieved, his most
serious duty is Involved. If the girl is
Inclined to be too - frivolous, he must
assume a quietly grave manner and avoid
opening up a sentimental or Indecorous
subject. He must indicate in every way
that the girl's proper place is to remain
near her chaperon, and if some young
man approaches whom she knows better
than, himself he must make way for him
with perfect breeding.
If he Is acquainted with -a clergyman
in the large gathering, it is always wise
to presant this gentleman to his nw
acquaintances, and likewise any member
of his family who happens to be present.
I I E i A
At meal time he must give the first of
his attention to the older women of the
party, and if it, rains, see that his um
brella is offered preferably to the mother
than to the daughter.
It is neither polite, manly or humanly
decent for a man to stand off at a picnic
and insolentlygle women whose appear
ance or dress he -admires. It is also the
height of bad taste for him to foregather
with other men in little knots for gossip
on the behavior of any girl present, for
if he is impelled to look her way he can
do her far more good with a glance of
quiet surprise, or one so gently kind that
the misbehaving one cannot help but be
ashamed.
If through some unforeseen accident a
girl's life is In peril, a man of honor risks
his own to save her, but the moment she
ib on dry land, or secure from the bears
and tigers, if she is a stranger to him,
and Shows no deKfrn fur V, i u
quaintance, he has no claim upon her.
But a girl's duty lies in thanking her
deliverer warmly for his great service.
mm ii wuuia snow a nice refinement of
feeling if she made something of a hero
of him. A life-saver has earned his
wreaths nnrl virlunil.. I. v. .
always claim them as his right.
r uriatKins , ana louaiy dressed girls
v.;,.
f i-P
-
vV'in
r.; iii.it
JULIUS KAYSER &
and Maid
should remember that they lay them-,
selves always open to disagreeable en
counters at a big picnic, and so have
little right to claim redress for small
ribaldries. To powder the face or arTang
any part of the dress without seeking
utter seclusion for the purpose is a grave
breach of delicacy, and if some girl is
found using a little pink on her cheek
it Is certainly as cruel as vulgar to tell
the men about it. Though not the best
taste in the world to color the cheeks,
rouge Is a fashionable adjunct to the
feminine toilette, and so may pass muster
In the scale of decency.
Even the dear little niMi . t n m
- XU n
JO must be vprv n-ipttnul.. . . i . .
. . . J , ... . .... , ,w, me ill w
picnic about their conduct and their boy
acquaintances. They must
never kiss them, and they must always
reprove the hov who., .k , .
tiful wwrl-.. " "
.... . - " ""J i never aare
utter before grown-up ladles and their
...v.o aim Biswrs,
In short, f-t'tn-i-K.-..1.- .
, . i -"in pranapa. aown
h I Lucy must be on their good
0,K picnic, it is the only
way to have a reallv erooH
copy book puts it. "Virtue has its own
reward. And every tree holds a dozen
eyes for ex-en the innocently done wrong
thing every hill a hundred tongues
rAlui.iM.(j BTASDISH.
Picnic Dainties
Club $ndiriran These delectable
morsels call for white bread toast-d.
crispy. The filling may be of grilled
ham or bacon, or of broiled chlckeai
with the addition of a taste of either
of the first two meats. A morsel of
broiled ham or bacon always gives an
extra fillip to chicken. A leaf of deli
cate lettuce Is put first on a slice of
the toast; then comes the meat, with
a sprinkle of salt, cayenne, and a
squeeze of lemon Juice for the final
notes. Most sandwiches are better
without butter, and these call abso
lutely for the broiling of the meat.
This cooking and the toast realize the
name, "club sandwich."
Mayonnaise Sandwiches The founda
tion for these Is gluten bread cut in
thin slices with the crust trimmed off.
When making the mayonnaise filling
odd a mustard spoon of dry mustard
and use cayenne, lemon Juice and a
touch of sugar for other seasoners. The
whole bite will also seem far more de
licious if the filling Includes two frag
ments of lettuce, these enclosing the
mayonnaise in a roll.
Herrlne Snndnlchrx The boneless
strips put up in glass jars or small
boxes are convenient for these". If the
herring seems unpleasantly strong
soak the strips in cold water for half
an hour. After this cook them gentlv
In a hot pan with a little butter, and
add. while cooking, a little cavenne.
White bread, which is not too fresh.
Is suitable for the casing.
Staffed Eggm Boil six eggs for 15
minutes and let them stand In the
same water till It Is lukewarm. After
this thoroughly chill them in cold
water,: cut directly in half, take out
the yolks and mix them Into a paste
with three tablespons of freshly toasted
bread crumbs rolled to a powder, one
tablespoon of olive oil or more as
liked a teaspoon of lemon Juice and
salt and cayenne to taste. If the oil
and acid are not liked, use melted but
ter or cream and season with chopped
parsley. Eggs prepared In this way
are Invaluable for excursion lunch bas
kets, as they are as filling as appetiz
ing and not the least messy.
Anchovy Tartinea Select the Swed
ish anchovies, which are put up In bot
tles. Wash them off with warm water
and let them soak for an hour In fresh
olive oil. Put between saltines or thin
slices of day old white bread. A few
drops of lemon juice Improves them.
Caviar Bites Cut rye or white bread
In long Inch strips and spread with a
good paste of Russian caviar. Lemon
juice is Indispensable with such bites.
Appetizers A single, big, black rad
ish cut in straw strips and eaten with
salt makes a cheap and piquant picnlo
appetizer. One good sized radish is
enough for a dozen persons. Ripe
olives, cured in the Italian way with
salt, strips of smoked salmon, pickled
mussels, oysters and shrimps are other
appetizers which may be found In any
grocery store. The sea things are bet
ter, however, if bought from the fish
man.
Think What
You Lose
When you g-et a silk glove
or interior make, you pay the
same price as tie Kaysers
And think what you lose.
Kaysers have the durable
fabric, the exquisite finish and
the perfect fit.
Kaysera have the patent
tips, and the guarantee in
, every pair.
Yet thev cost von not a
penny more than the poorest
o-lrirc yio1a
it
Patent Finger-Tipped
Silk Gloves
Kaysers are the final result
of 25 years of experience.
The pure silk fabric is made
in our factory, to get a weave
that wears.
Every glove goes through
fifty operations to attain per
fection in finish and fit.
To get these gloves the
kind you want look for
"Kayser" in the hem.
Sbort SIlic Gloves
50c, 75c, $1.00, 91.25
Long Silk Gloves
75c, S1.00, 91.25, $1.50 '
CO., Makers, New York
I.
(