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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 25, 1909)
THE SUNDAY OBEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 2.,, 1909 Pretty Wash Frocks for Summer THE waMi materials f-upplicJ lor Summer frock" "are moat charming. There in a riot of pale riower colors, went peas, buttercups, roses, carnations, trelllser vines, sUm stripes and checks. "Board-like linens lie he.Mde linens almost gosvarncr line: muslins and gingham;- fall in soft wilted folds. anU some embroidered webs rccvii as grand ami bewitching an thoSo once worked in hand frames and lying now in museums to show dead Beauty's thrift and taste. In truth, it is a season for fine hand work, so doubtless many a little ,'ionie lnado gown of the day will also be a la bor, of love. The models employed for the gowns are rot lwaj entirely becoming, for we can not all look like narrow saints upon ca thedral fronts. Then, too. the thinner of the Summer materials seem to call for amplitude. generous skirt breadths with flow-in flounces, bodices with looser sleeves than sre now worn, and untold coquetries in the way of lace and ribbon adornment. For since elimncss is the vaga though the wide skirt threatens there must be no superfluous bulging. Only soft materials shape the finer frocks, and every line from throat to hem of skirt miwt so toward the look of sklmpness. Trimmings lie flat, shape waist and skirt fronts, and are inserted in bands whose very joints seem made with glu?. And yet the right woman i.- a .saint in these narrow restrained modes, and s-o of her alone I will tell today But the sit uation means that one must cultivate ardently all knowledge of her very oyi n type, and when In doubt choose illwavs the thing midway in the scale or c' 3 az fo ment. It is far wi.ser to be a little be hind Kaehlon In a becoming dress, than to keep pace with lir in tilings v.v.ich make us look frights. Four moderate styles are cliojin from the season's varied supply for th. week's gown... The medium ffcu'-e is considered with all quantities of mater'-il which -will be given; and -widths are 'M and 41 Inches. The lesser ciuantiticn will mean the wider widths, md the greater the narrower. An ideal gown for practical uses '.s pic tured in Fig. A. This, singular hs it mcy eern. is a seinl-prineees model. 1 ut so trimly is the join of the waist a:i.i skirt bidden by the neat belt that a on.-n'.eew frock would never bo supec:ed. If liked the costume could be made in two distinct pieces, or the bodice or skirt alone wwv be chosen as a model for ,v e.pu;-a:.e gar ment. Six ynrds of the wider yoods "will make this dress and eight and seven eighths of the narrower. Such a etyle would not &:it h clinging .texture, for all its lines are on the tailored order, and such effects call for rather nlld materials. Linen strlpod and plain pique, duck, cotton, ottoman suiting, and khaki are some of the desirable mediums, and the round buttons could be of pearl or bone, and either match the dress color or be in pure white. Brilliant red buttons create quite a pret ty effect on eome of the yellow linen and khaki gowns. Fig. B gives the opportunity for the fashionable application of embroidery This could be done . by liana or elce be bought ready-made, as the piece is set in from neck to hem. A .'tiff collar matches the drera embroidery, and a narrow bow tie finishes the neck. The belt is of the sown material, and white linen would be the beet for this, though with the substi tution of a platn front fairly solid tuff would do. Nine and a. ba yards of narrow linen would make this dress, end if the width of the material is gen 11 culd be proportionately less. Fig. C gives a charming design for a smarter dress, something which would "lt itself to any Summer occasion short of a dressy evening one. Pongee, wash llk. etc., would realize this model very bandsomely. for pongee is Included among tbe wash goods, a new system of shrink ing Insuring safety from the spotting once known. Mere a deep yellow pongee ii tised with splashes of deeper gold, and with a soft black ribbon drawn through ..w,!d" relets of the bodice decoration Ithmit the edge of lace which also trims this decking, this gown would be very suitable in black china silk for mourning. The elimination of the lace is necessary In this case, for figured laces re never worn with deep black. Nno toilette yar'S f P01180 efect this Quite a fanciful conceit is Fig. r and the elaborate use of lnce with this will ir-,1"0"" who care fr highly orna inented effects. Any fine lingerie mate rial is suitable for the stvle, as well as dotted and plain swiss, figured and plain organdy, etc. The materials needed are 30 yards of lace Insertion, one and a half Wise Behavior for the Motherless Girl I AM going to limit the theme of this little etiquette talk to motherless girls, and I will tell you why. The word decorum, when applied to the con duct of the softer sex. implies the propei sttitude It must display toward the stronger, and being without the guidance of her most natural protector, her mother, a girl so placed is forever in dan ger. Resides, there are several precious little "motherless- letters to be answered more fully than can be done In private correspondence, though each of these writers has already had her secret word. It seems unjust to make the sweeping assertion when there are so many well bred men In the world, but taken ns a ppecies. Man represents a girl s most s rious peril. w!iti"nn0,t.n'wa,s ,0 be blamed. alas! "Wilful, flirtatious maidens come in for their share in what is put down to his discredit. Fair woman has broken hearts s a child would the plaything of an bour. and leys experienced ones have not n ways realized how serious other little breaks- arc. So every woman is ,-e. sponsible for the dignity of her sex. just as every man is responsible for the honor I! . .The ossciatlon which passes between them must be full of mutual re pect. and the accomplishment of this rteslrablo state of things lies entirely In the hands of the woman. After all. though there are ravening wolves in the open ' and ribald natures which applaud and woo the wrong con duct, man bus a fondness for womanly behavior. He may "chase" the gay sir' as the vulgar saying is, but he marries the modest one. The maid so sweetly lemmine. who loves her home and par ents, who is not too fine in dress, and who 1b not ashamed to be unnoticed at times, is the one for the lifetime. Let us start with the introduction The book of etiquette Is rather exacting as to how this comes. It is not correct to accept broadcastinvitatlons to meet men The presentation must be made bv some body held in respect by the familv, and the mans decency be passed upon by the nearest and most reliable adviser. it there is not even a dear daddy to go to bit brother, an uncle or old friend, let tiut lrl look the man over herself before of edging, and about 13 of the dress material. With all airy textiles, an underslip or petticoat and corset cover of lawn or thin silk r worn. This necessary background may still be in a contrasting tint, brtt the FIG. D DAINTY one-tone effect is considered a shade more elegant. I have left a very important word for the last. The gowns given are to demon strate the fact that the majority of Hie wash frocks are belted at the normal waist line. Occasionally, a fine lingerie dress shows the short vaist, but its gran deurs define plainly that it is a thin?, for the cleaner. Empire and IMrectoire modes are distinctly tabooed for inadequate ma- the acquaintance goes any farther. He will give himself away if he is not true Flo- A Ideal Dress for Practical Wear. blue, and if he Is he will respect her all the more for her scruples. Look out for-the rough' edges which Mm terials. -which all cheap wash goods are. Lovely little belts, which go elegantly with plain white linen frocks, are. in Dres den and watered ribbons, the vines and bouquets of the former being bright with color. C. H. or enameled buckles clasp LINGERIE -DESIGN. these and the width of the belt is about two inches. These belts are easily made at Jiome, pt remember that a delicate ribbon needs to be stiffened-and lined. inougn quite possible with plainer frocks, skin belts are not greatly admired, -unless of some soft kid, rich with em broidery. The gown material ehapes most of the belts which are not of ribbon, and certainly the fad is as economical as it Is neat- 5dARY rKAN. proclaim as much disrespect as bad breeding, for by hcr friends is a woman known. Never let a man who is not Sour husband, father or brotner sit in your presence with his feet reposing on the nearest sofa or chair, for a gentleman keeps these members .'on the floor in the presence of ladies. Never allow him to pass you in the street with only a finger carelessly lifted to the hat brim, or with a still more insolent nod. The hat must come entirely off his head, and if the gallant who so salutes a girl is accom plished in courtliness, he will subtly make the bow express not only respect but delight in the meeting. As the woman must bow first, except in case of old friends, the bow of the man is one. bf gratification at notice. The sweet head which has just bent to him so graciously, tells him that he is a very desirable pcr-son- lhe eJual of a well-brought-up girl. Ihe hour for masculine callers differs in city and small towns. Iu a large city the caller makes his appearance between half-past eight and nine o'clock in the evening. In the conn try he may come as early as half-past seven, and a morning or afternoon call is quite in the books. Llcven is the time for the morning call, and three for the afternoon one. Vnless she is engaged to man v the vis itor, a prudent girl does not see him too often alone, and if his intentions have not yet even been expressed bv his man ner, it Is wise for the lady to avoid all sign of trying to bring him to the point Somebody In the family may ask him at last what his attentions mean, but the girl s only safeguard against this embar rassing moment is to hide her own pos sible expectation. A simple, kindly man ner is the one to employ toward all men who are simply friends, and this never under any circumstances, includes kiss ing. A decent man expects only to be kissed wFhen he is loved, and the vulga habit of more or less promiscuous kiss ing Is likely to bring a nice girl s name into disrepute. Never call casual masculine acquaint ances by their first names. The tender "Bob" or "Dick" is only for the friend of a lifetime. In the same spirit exact the handle of "Miss" for your own name. As to goirfg out with men, It is not thought exactly the -thing to accept In vitations which do not include a third person - as chaperon. But since small towns and country districts arc not so H.B mc cixy m tuts matter, a v Isit to church or any place of amuse ment may be made alone with the escort. The man makes the request either by let ter or in person, and the girl's written or verbal answer is expected to bo gracious. The form of a note which answers In vitations to the theater may be as fol lows: Dear Sir. Blank: t Indeed I shall be tfclishted to go. and will be ready when you call. It was charming of you to think of me. Cor dially yours. A LICK GRAY. If the invitation comes from a newer acquaintance, the -writer is addressed as My "Dear Mr. Blank, the my giving the note of formality needed. Fcrmit me j In. t . .t -i-t. . ... .... . iii, wui 11. in: 1 garrulous man. bo who is too liberal with 1 rainmeni on oilier girlish behavior. Is not the one to -go out with at all. He Is likely to make you the subject of malicious gossip quite as freely as he does the absent and probably innocent maiden, and the man who does not hold a womin'a name sacred is so roimdlv scorned by his own fellows that it is an actual indiscretion to be seen with him. PRUDENCE STAXDISH. Paris Styles for the Hair PARIS If ..you ask Monsieur ' le Coif feur what i.s the dernier thing for the hair, he answers briefly, "La grossc tete, bien sure." The tors head, N of course! Which means that heads are so elab orately dressed that "bis- is ihn flirt word for theni. To accomplish this look of fabulous plenitude the pieces of false hair sup plied are numberless. Every trifle has a special name, and all .ire so cunr.ingly and lightly made that it is impossible to fancy Nature is fibbing.. Thiru ar pin curls, neck curia, side curls, transforma tions., poufs, partings, switches, braids, chignons. One head may not wear jll of these at a time, but it is luun 1 to have more than one false note, while the vom. an silly enough to pile on rhe ,vhol.i fa'se regiment is simply adorable, for with the deep-brini-med hats worn the effect of these swollen heads Is rich and anti quated. The fairer of the women so udointd, and who wear ?owns corrcspuu.liiiKlv r'ch and quaint, all appear to n.-i-.-o stepped from old pictures. But it is the uncov ered head which seems most aolcnd'-J. jr..l then the student of th mysteries -of hair sees that there is a .nlddl pei-tins? anil flat top surface; that soft, waved b:md puff out at the sides of 1 lie Ta.-e, an 1 that the revel of poufs. curls, oraid3 and what not at the back elongate oft;n into a uiL-tim.-t point. There is something Grecian in thi?. es pecially if the top of. he head Is cro.-sed by a glistening tiandeau of ribbon or gold or silver braid. The smart coiffuro fjr youthful persons is- always ornamented by these beautiful i.ndea.x, which fcive a saintly stamp to a mild fair lace. single natural rose or a ..hou of lhe band material may break the divine line, but the plain band U most liksd. Women who need something more splendid wear Grecian nets at the back of the hair these spreading with a Hammock mesh and fastening at the sides with rich lew els. How will these trimmed and burdened heads end? Ah. very likaly in a consid erable loss of the natural biir. for the rats and cages used to build up the. fcliuc ture are all heating, and heat in the end is very bad for hair. Meanwhile, woman wears her borrowed glory with untroubled heart, knowing very well th.it not since the days which preceded the guillotine have heads been so beautiful. Apropos of the guillotine, that instru ment of feminine gender, one coiffeur dis plays radiant waxen heads dressed in the styles affected by the great ladies' who perished in the Revolution. There 'is the Marie Antoinette, the style Lomballe 'the maidenly effect of the martyred and' he. roic Elizabeth. All wear C10 fat curls the chic wmeii of the day Lave borrowed and at many a grand ball the entire coif fure of one of these poor martyrs is faith fully copied. There is a good deal of tAji in roreigu papers of the dyes emplovcd in Pari b,u here natural-tinted hair is the vogui. Blonde hair, especially the dyed shades which foreigners so ofte-i display m the street, is by no means sought, uttc though, naturally, genuine blonde hair ls always glorious. Even if the lockj of other heads are onK- : .1 ; r .... 1.. ... ----- .- -;.i'ia uniea. the elaborate dressing ar.-.l pomades and brilllantlnes used give always a charmln" look. When dye is employed a bright warm shade of chestnut seems to be the tone desired: nevertheless, the gray-eyed pale-faced woman, whose brown nair is all but ashen, is the beauty of Paris. Often, when dressing hair streaked at the temples with gray, the coiffeurs use a pure white , powder, for powder and white hair are both fashionable-in Pari Indigo is put in the water which sham poos gray hair, or Uiir ail white, this producing the same laisuig effect that bluing does on yellowed clothes. In fact the washtub blue is the very 'hing used' and It Is declared to be entirely harmless! ftp In III w Fig. B One Opportunity for Embroidery. 1 1 Feeding Wrinkles to Erase Them D DO YOU feed your wrinkles and cul- tivate a bland expression? .These are questions all good beauty doc tors are likely to ask nowadays. In every great, city sanctum . dedi cated to the charms of woman there is FIG. C DRESS FOR incessant talk of the needlessness of wrinkles, admirable argument for the simple methods of their partial if not entire dispersal. For one must not expect to remove all the traces of a lifetime of neglect. Eternal vigilance is the price of Beauty, and so the naughty -wrinkle must be taken in hand at a. very early age. It must be spanked and fed. soothed and forced nightly into submission to heart and mind. "Give a bad child full reign from the time he is born, won't he conquer you?" Kuys one Medicine Woman astutely. So take your wrinkle in its infancy. Re gin its training today. A liti.ie preliminary talk i.s neces sary for this subject, for-all informa tion on the wrinkle goes toward the remedy. The wi Inkling of the skin upon the face may come from various causes. Age is one remorseless factor, chronic stomach disturbances another, and winds, hard water, frowns and grim aces others. And these are without counting the direful results of unclean liness. neglect of proper food, the fa tality of insufficient rest, and the ter rible consequences of worry. So before the removal or softetilng process is at tempted, consider all these baleful con ditions and slovenly habits. The nightly face bath has been top much touched upon to be more than suggested here as absolutely necessary. But if the face needs a little daytime dabbing, wet a soft cloth with pure rosewater and ue this as a cleanser. Next, keep the importance of a calm facial expression forever in mind. Have it indeed bland,- at private moments, with the stolidity of the Indian idol. The phlegmatic temperament is an excellent antidote to wrinkles, for they attack the thin hypersensitive skin which sots with orittle nerves. 'o if you must worry, do it with the uncon scious part of you. for all the rest must be employed In banishing the folds ready to attack cheeks, forehead, the corners of eyes and lips. Worry is a frightful destroyer of looks, and Its effects on the expression of the eyes alone is something to be dreaded like the tiger in the jungle. Who has not turned away some time from the distress of hideously worried eyes, and a face seamed by fretting over petty annoyances? For a great grief seldom leaves these ugly traces being rather ennobling in Its shadow! They result from the trashv. every day nonsense about the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker- the foolish fume over clothes; the envy of the neighbor's ox and ass and all that is hers. In fact, nine times out of ten. It is foolishness which Is god mother to the wrinklS. Rub the seam out of your heart first, and then look to your face. The "feeding" process of eradicating wrinkles begins In this way: The skin is -washed in warm water, and then the line persistently pressed apart with . the fingers while olive oil is poured in. Not one h,- i ..... ' and with each one. massage, whose strokes run away from each side of the line. A nightly half hour consumed with this rite win show increasing SMART OCCASION benefit, and when the sacrifice to Heb Is over press the line again apart an. apply a thin piece of coat plaster some thing over the size of the blemish Ordinary plaster is quite as good a mt.- ouu com especially tor tne pur pose, and the fastidious may choose a pale flesh or cream tint which will not be too unsightly. Refuse Silk Gloves If Not Kaysers No need to tell you about the Kaysers. You've known them since you can remember. Their patent tips, their fabric, finish and fit, made them your ideal gloves. But there are numerous inferior makes which trade on the Kayser fame. Be careful. Look for "Kayser" in the hem. We have spent 25 years in perfecting these gloves. Every year they've been bettered. Now every glove goes through fifty operations to get the finish and fit you desire. We make our own fabric to give you pure silk, and a weave that wears. Yet the poorest glove .posts no less than the Kayser. Is it not wise to refuse them? Short Silk Gloves, - 50c, 75c, $1.00 $1-5 Long Silk Gloves, 75c, $1.00, $l.2a! $l!io JULIUS KAYSER & CO., Makers, New York If there is more than one. wrinkle, give them all the hhihc coddling and let theni all go to bed with their 'plas ter nightcaps. Kor the hard line which runs horizontally between the brows and which would giv... if neglected too long. 11 look actually murderous to the sweete.-t f.omaii. this nightlv treat ment is excellent, though yon must not expect Rome to be built in a dav. Vigi lance, as I say. is the price of an un wrink'.cd skin, and certainly something is trained If tin line i.s onlv softened to the extent of not showing the filst thing. .4 wash with barley water mav be highly recommended, for it Is in'iiiN humble bath llut many a dead Beauty owed her smooth fkin at the age of 70. This Is made by boiling three ounces of pearl barley in a pint of water till me siuien it: extracted. The liquid is then strained and 25 drops of tincture of benzoin added. It the olive oil is not liked for the "feeding." any reliable skin foe.i bo used, but nothinsr can be Lotto- than the oil if skins and nostrils take kindly to it. and certainly no remedy muio narmicss and cheap. The o-called --removers." wrinkle creams and powders are rarely to be relied upon, and since many are sold under pledge of secrecy, the wise wom an win ,jlve them the go-bv. ine lotion which is credited, with great virtue through strengthening and contracting the tissues. Is made from this formula: Powdered Incense (Ollbanum) 32 grains Powdered benzoin 33 grains Powdered from arahic ..32 grain Powdered -fciveet almonds. ... 48 grains Ground cloves is grains oround nutmeg is grains Alcohol (deodorized t ........ S ounces Dissolve the first three in alcohol: then add spices and almond meal. Let it stand for two days, shaking the vessel several times. After this add an ounce and a half of pure rose water and filter through porous paper. Women who live in districts subject to fierce and dusty winds should wear thick veil?. But this suggestion applies only to delicate t-kins, for the normal one cries out for air. n1 the more the better. KATHKK1N MOIITON. A I'ainfut Question. "T am." he said, "deformed. Pads hid" it. Still, deformed I am; and I want to know why writers always make deformed persons villains? "Take Quasimodo In Victor Hugo's Notre Pamc.' Why, Quasimodo was lil tlo better than a wild gorilla, swinging from the great bell, and hurling the priest down from the high tower! "Take the housemaid's clubfoot father In Ibsen's "Ghosts There was a nasty old man for you, a nanty, perverse, evil minded old rooster, eh? "Take -Dick Crookback' in the immortal William's play. Take 'Nosey the Dwarf in Hauff's classic fairy tale. Take the villains in all fairy tales, for that matter they are a one-eyed, lame, hunchback, clubfooted lot. "It makes us deformed folks red hot. this literary Imputation of villainy. It causes people to think we really are villains. Where's the child, after a course of fairy tales, that can be persuaded a hunchback's soul doesn't match his body?" Observations of a "Waiter. The little, lean waiter, balancing easily on his enormous feet, talked: Oh. yes. It's got its oddities, waitin." he said. "Here, frinstance, all wine corks must be guv up to the cashier. Why so? Well. spose on tdiovin' yoji the wine card I see you ain't no wine Judge. Then I recommend you a brand what I get a commission on so much for every cork handed la to the agent. But the boss here, you see. he w-ants only his own brands recommended: o he spoils the cork commission game. "Herd's another oddltj-. Early break fast waiters gets no tips. Why is that? Some says It's because early risin puts folks in a bad. non-tippin temper. My idea, though, is that people what rises early are just naturally cross-grained and mean. These reg'Iar boarders Is a queer lot. A reg'Iar boarder at this hotel puts his toothbrush outside his door with his shoes. He pays the porter Jl a week to hold the toothbrush under a spigot half an hour a day. Sweetens it up sump'n tine, he says." Patent Finger-Tipped Silk Gloves A,
