THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, rORTLAND. APRIL 18. lOOO
" TT ' m s 2l
ODD BODICE IN
SO many shirtwaists are being bought
and made, and there Js stll such de
mand lor the smarter odd bodice,
that there seems no likelihood of these
useful garment being shelved In the near
future. All sorts of dainty wash tex
tures turn out the every -day garment,
while for skirts suitably elegant, the finer
ones cannot be too exquisite.
But lovely as these, last are. It is the
more modest thing which Is most needed.
The plain, stylish shirtwaist, with the
coat and skirt gown which goes with It,
represents the last notch for comfort and
practical wear, and In the wardrobe of
the Summer Oirl will be seen a number
of models, the materials in these rang
ing from board-like linens to the finest
textures.
The body portion of the practical shirts
(differs little from .those long seen. Many
models show the old Gibson shoulder
pleats, the best pocket, and plain French
back, while the front tucking and fitted
backs of other familiar styles are still
favored. It Is in the sleeve that the
greatest changes are being made, and
though not nearly so close as ' those of
dressier waists, the sleeves of the favored
shirtwaist axe decidedly smalL
. The enormously high stocks are also
giving way, to a large extent, to stiff
linen collars and turn-down ones of
linen, muslin and embroidery, which are
Snost becoming to a youthful throat.
Kverywhere these stylish waists give
delightful hints to the expert needle
woman, for hand-embroideries, hand-run
tucks and drawn threads dlistinguisli the
majority. Indeed, the girl handy at her
"seam"' will dwell, as you might say, in
the shirtwaist paradise this Summer, but
many of those unacquainted with the
gentle art of the needle will have to
stand outside the gates. The ready-made
shirtwaist of proper cut and material Is
not the Inexpensive trifle it looks. Five
dollars is asked for quite simple effects,
and if hand-work Is rampant, the price
may go far Into the twenties. The price
of one white embroidered linen waist of
almost severe plainness was $60!
Immaculate neatness Is Indispensable
for these wash garments, and that means
numbers, and numbers mean time for the
work, so the home-sewer should look at
once to her Summer supply of waists.
The quantities of material needed seem
' small as compared with those required
by former models, and the snug fit and
little sleeves do much to suggest the
llmness at present so desirable. In fact,
though a shirtwaist model is scarcely
the one to advise, for a stout woman's
bodice, even the over-sized shirtwaist
can be made to suggest a good figure. .
' The style and tit of the corset is an
Important factor In all good results, and
an the newest corsets are low at the bust
It is often necessary to wear a support
here. Upon the belting of the shirtwaist
much also depends, so remember that a
narrow belt gives always a slimmer ef
fect than a wide one.
This week's designs give four of . the
season's new styles for waists, and each
on would prove a simple task to the ex
pert sewer.
A. dainty little waist can be made from
the design with low collar and elbow
sleeves (Fig. A). Four yards of material
EL Inches wide, or two yards 44-lnch
width, would be needed for a medium
figure. Here the waist is made of white
linen with clusters of round pearl but
tons down the pleats of the front. The
lew collar may be sewed to the neck or
else be detachable, and If a thin mate
rial ts used, the soft tie could be of the
same. An edge of lace around the collar,
c-'iffs and down the front pleats would be
a smart note for a soft, fine texture, and
If embroidery Is to be utilized on a heav
ier one, it should likewise be on these
details. Thin linen, batiste, dimity, lawn,
nnd light-weight flannels are all suitable
for this pretty little model.
The second "shirt" Flg. B is still
more practical than this, for since
women have taken up the ungloved fad
for Summer the lengthening of sleeves
I now necessary for the note of propri
ety with street wear. Three and one
half yards of material 21 inches wide, or
two yards 42 Inches wide, are the re
quirements of this model, and it may be
made in any recognized shirtwaist text
lire. This style would be smart for the up
per garment of a neat shirtwaist dress,
for these admirable frocks, with their
spotless qualities and becoming simplic
ities, are still seen in vast numbers. A
pretty striped lawn with a white muslin
flounce lace-edged down the front, would
also realize in this mode.l quite a smart
waist for a good odd skirt. These fussy
front fixings show on quantities of the
waist In fine materials and plain cuts.
Fretty and necessary ornaments for a
swagger shirtwaist effect such as shown
FIG. A FOR HOT WEATHER WEAR.-
....... .T ,, ,x
FIG. B A POPULAR MODEL.
in Fig. B.. are handsome belt buckles in
uesign ana shirtwaist rings. The
Stones in these motoVi on . i.
may be either gilt or dull silver. As for
' .aii are raise and all exceed
ingly handsome as th.v i i .
nicety the beautiful false gems of
French munnfafturo -ex,,. ...
-- ... i nij v.r: 1 1 13 v 111
f"y an effective buckle, and one dollar
the ring, which is worn on' the little fin
ger of , the left hand. Shirtwaist rings of
pure gold, whose richly colored stones
seem really maernlflcent in,t -an
each.
The third waist (Fig. C.) Is in blouse
or Jumper style over a lace under one.
This charming bodice suit is Itself es
pecially to a costume in one material
though it would lose nothing through
Contrast With An nHl .Ht TV. - i ..... .
fullness of the front is still Fashions
device for slight figures. Two and three-
rourtns yards of material 21 Inches wide
would be needed for the blouse and four
and three-fourths yards of velvet, ribbon
this for medium sUe. The under bodice
calls for lace or net nnH .
. ...... 1 1 VI 1111(3
eighths yards 44 inches wide would be
" eimer textile.
The last bodice (Fig. r.) represents
something particularly suited to the
dressiest day wear. Three yards of ma
terial 24 Inches wide, or one and three
fourths yards 44 inches wide, will make the
THE LADY AND HER SPEECH
BY her choice of language is a lady
first known.
Let us begin with the word lady
itself. It Is a much ill-used andT by no
means appreciated noun, for when cor
rectly employed It expresses an essence
no other word can so quickly convey.
m America a jaqy is an educated per-
DEMAND
bodice proper. For iiet already tucked
to be used for the stock and guimp, five
eighths of a yard would be necessary.
The banding about the neck and the falls
at the side could be in different laces,
and if the bodice is in cream or white,
the girdle could be in the skirt color.
Plain cloth skirts, cut with -ilmost rid
ing habit snugness, and dropping on the
floor all around, are much seen with fine
bodices. Many beautiful nets and laces
In the exact tone of the material used
for the skirt, shape numberless fancy
waists, though it is necessary always to
keep these for their own particular skirt.
The best of the elegant odd bodices
repeat somewhere the note of the skirt,
women of taste and ingenuity adding
these themselves with many a ready
made waist.
Say the old skirt to be .used is of dull
coral cloth and there is a scrap left over
from the making. This the genius of the
needle turns Into a delicate bias or pip
ing, which is used to outline the stock
and sleeve edges of the cream or white
lace waist. Tiny buttons covered with
the same may also be applied In small
numbers with good effects and if needle
work is possible, a touch of stitchery in
coral silk would give the last note of
continuity. After all. It is still upon the
endless little things that the right cf
fect depends. MART DEAN
son of perfect social tone, wlio gives In
dress, language and kindness- of heart
an Instantaneous impression of class and
breeding. The heart open to sympathy
and understanding is as necessary for
ladyhood as anything else, for no flinty
hearted being of either sex is over-honored
by the appellative "gentlewoman"
or 'gentleman." Hence, to call the
average man or woman of one's ac
quaintance by these honorable names 1s
to show our inefficiency In the matter of
language.
However, the phrases, "She is a lady,"
or "She is a perfect lady," are not often
employed by persons of punctilious
speech. "She is a fine woman" U far
more usually heard and In this.' case the
."lady" is understood.
Elegant Is another exquisite word
enormously misapplied. Elegant desig
nates the finer qualities of a person or
object. A dress of rare color, make and
material may be elegant; a grand lady's
or gentleman's . manner elegant. But
we cannot have an "elegant time" or "eat
an elegant dinner"-; for enjoyment means
a pleasant or an unpleasant time, and a
good or bad dinner, though the manner
of serving the latter, all the table ap
pointments and the deportment of the
hostess may be eminently elegant.
Tasty is a rock upon which the most
pleasing aspirant to social honors may
be shattered. This abominable word,
which Is most often applied to food. has.
no legitimate place in the English lan
guage. One says a dish is "appetizing,"
not "tasty," so turn your memory away
from the "word when you see it; for
though cooking receipts may give It, it
it tabooed by polite society. '
A splendid Kngllsh authority on the
propriety of speech gives the following
simple rules: . .
Always select word calculated to give
an exact Impression of your meaning.
Let yotv articulation be easy, clear,
correct in accent and suited In tone and
emphasis to your discourse.
Avoid a muttering, stuttering, guttural
or lisping pronunciation.
Let your, voice be preferably low and
quiet and eschew a garrulous propensity
Great talkers, unless of surpassing wisv
dom or of delightful delivery are gen
erally great bores.
Beware of such vulgar Interpolations
as "you know," "you see," "I tell you
what." etc.
Pay a strict regard to all the rules of
grammar, even in the most , intimate and
private conversation, . for a bad habit
once caught Is. difficult to overcome.
Above all, let your conversation be In
tellectual, graceful, chaste, discreet. dl
fylng. profitable and kind.
In this simple and short list Is com
prised all the fundamentals of correct
speech, for if one follows the rales of
grammar and avoids coarse, unkind and
unprofitable discussion, speech cannot
help wearing the right stamp.
One is never too old to acquire the
right methods of speech, and a little cul
tivation in this respect is nothing to
blush for. Correct language, with a cer
tain elegance of delivery, are magnifi
cent weapons for business and social suc
cess, and they are edged tools, besides,
for warding off vulgar and undesirable
acquaintances. The woman who says
dandy" with every breath, who talks of
"fellers." who says "sure" and commits
a dozen other -sins of rhetoric, has no
fondness for the one of well-bred speech
and noble thought.
"Water seeks Its level, and so while
getting rid of the wrong acquaintances,
the way is being paved all the time for
the right ones.
Begin your private lessons by listening
to the sound of your own voice. If It is
loud and harsh, drop your tone and soften
the articulation. Imitating Southern dia
lect is good practice for nasal, unmusical
voices; though, of course, such lingual
gymnastics must be taken In private and
dropped before the world.
Read good books after the grammar les
sons are learned, for a good book is the
finest teacher of language the world
knows. Stevenson and Emerson are fa
mous knights of the beautiful Word and
Thought. i
However, von im Twtf- .i. ... 1 1
in the footsteps of these great leaders in
elegant language. All that the polite
world requires Is that you shall be cor
rect In grammar and employ a tone of
voice which Is pleasing to the decent ear.
For those whose vocabulary Is so lim
ited aa to produce shyness In company,
the study of another language Is often
a great help. Even reading a big,- good
dictionary is an aid to fluency with
words: and since, thereby, the reader
gets an exact knowledge of their mean
ing, there la no danger of their being
misapplied.
It is a wonderful thing to have rare
and beautiful words at one's command
but we must look out always for the
foolish vanity which created Mrs. Mala
prop. Sheridan took this famous' name
for this delightfully funny, character
from the French expression mat a propos
which means to do a thing wrongly. Mrs'
Malaprop cannot open her mouth with
out raising a shriek from the audience
So If we cannot be really fine, let us
cultivate a speech so simple that .it will
pass unnoticed.
Simplicity is. after all, the basis of fine
language, while absolute silence, if allied
to dignity of presence, may even give
the impression of learning. The Bible
warns us that out of the heart comes
speech. So look to the thought first
see that It is as shining as a star. Then
proceed with your simple English, and
all will be well.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Menus for Week
BY XJLIAK TINGLE.
Tuesday.
Steamed Clams or Mussels
Braised Tongue. Spinach Pure.
Bleed Potatoes.
Chicory Salad. Fruit Charlotte.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Creey Soup".
Beef Balla in Batter. Lyonaise Potatoes.
Horesradlsh Sauce.
Asparagus Salad.
Moulded Rhubarb with Cream.
Coffee.
Thursday.
.. ' . Cream of Asparagux Soup.
Rolled Flank or Round Steak.
Celery Stuffing:. Brown Saucs.
Browned Potatoes.
Grape Fruit or Orange Salad
Bread Pudding with Sultanas.
Coffee.
Friday.
.Tambolaya of Rice and Shrimp..
-Savory Omelet with Asparagus Tips
Apple, Celery and Plmiento Salad
Jam Roll with Cream.
Coffee.
Saturday.
White Soup with Leeks.
Brown Lamb Stew with Vegetables.
Potato Border.
Watercress Salad with Cottar Cheese
Stewed Black Figs.
Coffee.
Runday.
Vermicelli Soup.
Roast VeaJ. Baron G-arnish.
Mashed Potatoes. Strlnglesa Beans
. ., . 'Peach Pickle..
Artichoke or Tomato Jelly Salad
Burnt Almond Parfolt. Little Cakes.
Coffee.
Monday.
Tomato Soup
-,. Minced Veal In Potato Crust
Lima Bean Salad with Chives
Canned Raspberry Pudding or Shortcake
Coffee.
A Seraufrder.
, Birmingham Age-Herald.
you.- sang an ardent swain,
. ?af-,mor! thajl wrds can say."
A bulldog came upon the scene
The young man sneaked away
AltbougB 'twas true he loved the maid
No Romeo could beat him
He d'dn't loTe her quite enough
To let that bulldog eat him.
PIG. D FOR, VERY
I I !
POWDER
0N"CE upon a time It was no sin to
use cosmetics. Great ladies stained
their cheeks, kohled their eyes and
dusted on their "white" in the presence
of distinguished visitors; and to appear
in society without these aids .to beauty
was actually to wtabllsh oneself as a per
son of defective 'taste.
But fashion for the toilette change,
and men and women change with them,
so that today the open use of cosmetics
represents, as It were, one of the seven
deadly sins. Yet when done with a deli
cate art the offense is pardonable; and
since it Is done to a large extent very
badly, it seems to me only right and
proper to tell the right way to use cos
metics. As Confucius pithily remarks,
"Even In killing men. let us observe the
rules of propriety."
A decent restraint in the use of cos
metics is not as easy as you would think,
for the eye grows drunken at last with
color, and taste Is blunted by excess. Bo
since the actual offense lies In looking
painted and powdered, start your toilette
of loveliness with the Idea that you will
underdo it rather than overdo it. A little
pallor or sallowness Is far better than a
mass of red and white which stands out
from -the face like a foolish mask..
The stage gives magnificent suggestiona
for the use of cosmetics. The most harm
less rouge advised is grease paint, which
comes in stick form and in small pots.
This Is said to be less drying than a dry
. DRESSY . WEAR.
t .T;
j . j
FIG. C A CHARMING BODICE IN JUMPER STYLE. .
PUFF AND
rouge, and more natural than a liquid
one. Three grades of red light, dark and
medium suits it to every complexion.
Black, brown or blonde cosmetics are the
stage names for the pencils which darken
eyebrows and eyes, and when buying
these many a society woman goes to the
good places which sell theatrical supplies.
"Complexion sticks" are tinted cosmetics
which suggest as nearly as possible the
natural coloring of the skin.
These are often applied first after the
cold cream rub. of course to give a
foundation to the-other things used, but
for day they are only advised where It is
necessary to cover up some disfiguring
mark, such as the dark red birthmarks
which so distress a pretty woman. In
such a case, the complexion stick is
nibbed dlre,ctly upon the blemish until it
has paled or Is hidden, and then the spot
ts covered with powder.
As to powder, the simpler the ones used
with rouge the better, as It Is really the
thick, fast-sticking white which give's the
Improper and clownish look.
Scented talcum, rice, or wheat powder
and prepared chalk are the only secure
powders for a sensitive skin. If you must
have something more concealing and fast
than these, be sure you match y6ur com
plexion with the powder tint, blonde, bru
nette or pink. Buy always tlfe best cos
metics, for it is only in this way. and
through a careful preparation of the 6kin
first, and an even more careful cleanMng
of It at night, that yon will keep your
complexion. The delicate pores of" the
skin have no fondness for the grease and
dust blanket.
Start the cosmetic toilette by washing
the face with warm water and a good
soap. This rests and softens the skin, so
that the red and white will blend with It
and not lie outside in a solid, unnatural
sheet. Then rub in cold cream with
brisk, yet gentle massage. and sit -down
to your dressing table to a good 20 min
utes of toil, seeing to It that all the Im
plements of war. as well as a hand glass,
lie in line before you.
The rouge Is put on first, the brows
and eyelids darkened next, and the pow
der applied last of all. A soft spun silk,
linen or cotton rag. Is Indispensable, for
this must smooth down hard edges till
the line between the color and natural
skin Is lost.
To apply the rouge, dig a right-hand
Ayers Pills
Ask your doctor what he thinks of this
formula for a liver pill. Do as he says
about using these pills. He knows.
Complete Formula
Ayers Pills
JEaeh Pill Represents
i Grain 1 PodophyUin ....
QW . Oram Gamboge ....
Aloea . . ... . Grain. I Oil peppermint . . .
Coiocynth Pulp ... drain Oil Spearmint ...
Xxeipiant Sufficient quantity.
We hate no secrets! We publish
the formulas of all our medicines.
). C. AYER CO.. Manufacturing Chemists. Lowell, Mais.
RUGE POT
finger into the red and rub it over all the
points which have ever displayed a hint
of natural roslness. Some faces need a
touch of. rouge upon the chin and lips, a
faint tinting of the eyelids, and a decided
roslness for the lobes and curl of the ear
The lid-tinting is to give the ball of the
eye fullness, and the chin, lip and ear
touches make the cheek blush seem more
natural.
Leave this application to sink Into
the skin and proceed with the dark
cosmetic Except for the fairest wom
en, who use a blonde pencil, brun
(brown) is the best color for this. Fol
low the natural eyebrow line with the
pencil, and never make a mark. If you
can help it. on the bare akin. TJien
rub the dark pencil across the palm
of the left hand, and with a clean fin
ger of the right gather up this soft
brown, blonde or black dust and rub
It delicately over all the eye covering.
A hard line made by a dark pencil
under the eye Is very ' bad., bat few
persons not In Beauty's secret will be
able to suspect the artificiality of the
improving overshadow made In this
way. But the red and the black are
only a breath they must seem the re
flection of the ball of the eye through
a thin lid.
You. now come to the important
makeup" rag. and with one corner of
this go over the rouge, and with an
other over the lids, tin your own moth.
c tvura not ten wnere her daughter
begins and art ends. Then dust on the
powder, smoothing that with still an
other corner of the rag.
Thus should a woman use cosmetics.
If at all, and thus the offense of employing-
them is lessened appreciahly
KATHERLNK MORTON. '
Various Uses for Bananas.
Few persons know the convenience
and delicate taste of cooked bananas.
Few not to bananas born realize their
nutritive value. Yellow bananas can
be employed in many excellent ways.
They are fine plainly boiled In their
skins and served with cream or sweet
butter for breakfast. They may be
boiled with salt pork, or baked around
a leg of fresh pork l peeled in last in
stance), or fried and served with
broiled lamb ki4ney3 and bacon. Us,ed
in this way both the kidneys and the
bananas take on an aded flavor by
being together. Select fruit which,
while ripe, is yet perfectly firm. Ten
minutes are required for boiling, and
five or- a little more for frying. The
fruit will let you know when It Is done,
for It falls into a pulp as easy to di
gest as baby food. Baked bananas may
take the place of potatoes on a lunch
eon table, as they are excellent with
all meats. Bake them in their skins in
a hot oven, and punch them occasional
ly 'with the fingers to see how they
are progressing.
i A Send-off.
Waliaoe Irwin In Collier's
Say. Teddy, we have Joked about thos- Spec
tacles and Teeth.
We nave Joshed you on your strenuous jro
. ellvity;
Now a little word, at parting, for the heart
that beats beneath
And the purpose that was true to your ac
tivity. For you're going for you're going, and we
scarce believe lta t ie:
Yes, a sort of lonesome VeIing, like an ar
row, shoots us through
By the laws that not the ecrubhlns;
And the trusts that took the clubhinr.
Twill be many a cold. hart Winter ere we
see the like o you!
Here's a bumper to you, Teddy, and so-long
to you!
See the manhood of the Nation rise an.i
throng to you.
Let the predatorloa roast you
We. the people, riee and toajrt you
la a cup of glory, Teddy and ao-lonr to you!
Tou were often hard to follow in your elia
for hull and bear;
And your walks with Army Captains my,
you piked It so!
Say, we almost choked to eee you beard the
Congrees In Us lair
And emerge without a bump and, O you
liked It so!
Tou were nevrr dull or clammy you wera
either pleased or vexed.
And we woke up mornings asking, "What will
he be doing next'.'
Will he give the railroads Bsdes.
Or exprece his view on ladles.
Or Impale some rabbit faker on a pointed
moral text?"
Here'e a bumper to you. Teddy, and. so-long
to you !
Here's a banzai and a broadside and a eone
o you
By the slaves that you have fathered
And. the masters you have bothered.
We. the people, wake the welkin ana" o-lom
to you!
Ton have bred a bunch of language that will
live beyond Ita day,
Tou have told the truth where rlea might
be defensible;
Tou have butted In where angela would have
fainted dead away.
Tet your madness has been sJwaya common
sensrtble. Tou have raked the Md tradition of the
barnacles that elumr.
Tou have whlxied Into the Ttee Hive where
the Nation's hiney hung.
Tou have spotted out the shlrkerw,
A they fed among the workers;
Afid there's been an awful bussing fnm the
drones when they were stung!
Here's a bumper to you, Teddy ant an-long
to you!
Here's the send-off of the Natloa tree and
strong to you:
Go and rest in wild Zambezi.
Hunt the lion oh thai', -u mr-
Tou have bagged some big ones, Teddy and.
-Wi to you!
tV Grain
iV Grain
tV Grain
tit Grain
4