The Sunday Oregonian., March 28, 1909, SECTION SIX, Page 7, Image 61

TnE su OREG
THE BEST ON EARTH IS THE HAN AN SHOE
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NOVEL
CONCEPTIONS IN
FOOTWEAR
TO BR- strictly correct, my. lady
must have a pair of shoes or
pumps to match every frown. This
style Is quite a boon to the shoe dealer,
but hubby is likely to have heart dis
ease when the Spring shoe bills come
In. There are no great changes in
shapes from the styles shown last Win
ter, but It Is the new colors that show
the new-style departures. Gray Is the
keynote and suede the finish that is
strictly in vogue. A gray suede strap
pump, with leather bow to match, plain
medium toe with short vamp, is shown
extensively hy the smart shoe dealers.
Of course patent leathers will still be
the leaders ip quantity worn, but look
out for the suede effects on Kaster
morning and later at, the fashionable
Summer resorts. Combination treat
ments In leather effects are also shown
In great variety at the swell booteries.
These duo treatments of contrasting
leathers are shown in dark tan. oxfords
with a narrow welt of light tan bind
ing on every seam, also matte calf on a
patent leather, white kid on blue serge,
gray suede on dull ralf, black suede
and white talf, etc These all make
very tasty effects. Another popular
novelty is a patent leather foxed-but-ton
oxford with gray suede or serge
top of black, brown or wine top. The
blucher oxfords and hte strap and but
ton pump will vie with each other for
fashionable preferment. While those in
plain effects seem strongest at this
time, there are so many novelties
shown that the fashion whimsies may
turn to any one of them and In a meas
ure submerge all else.
Suede oxfords made with straight .tips
and osme small perforations along the
seams will be very apt to catch on.
Shoe styles are largely speculative, and
while we tell you here what is being
shown at the shops, what will be most
worn Is a matter of fancy that It is
very difficult to forecast. In high sjioes
the button effects will unquestionably
predominate. This is also true with
the oxfords. A very safe purchase right
now that will be fashionable all season
would be dark Russian calf blucher ox
fords or button strap pumps, either
plain or fancy tips with perforations.
Dark shades o" tan and golden brown
will be extensively worn, as these
shades will be so much worn in suits.
Aside from the suedes that will be worn
in all shades, alf and kid will be popu
lar finishes from the fact that they are
so soft, light, cool and easy.
The heels are to be medium low.
Pumps with the bow will, of course, be
favored, though there are a great many
styles shown plain and also with Jew
eled and metal buckles.
Vamps of patent leather with broad
cloth tops to match the gowns are a
vital necessity to the women who adopt
the height of fashion. These are shown
in tan. taupe, purple, green, blue, gray
and brown. On these, shoes the buttons
must match the cloth.
Some pumps are shown with- a slen
der strap over the inside and a buckle
to keep the shoe from slipping back and
forth, whic his a great fault in pumps.
For indoor wear and afternoon af
fairs the slippers must also match the
gown. High-heeled pumps in suede or
patent leather are correct. They have
pointed tongues and ornamental gold or
silver buckles. ,
It is a fad just now in both Paris and
London for women to wear In the street
belt, tie and shoes all of tlie same color.
LATEST FASHIONS IN MEN'S FOOTWEAR
dm'--'
THERE Is not much deviation 'n
the shoe styles for men from
those of last Summer, excepting
where extreme features are shown, and
the popularity of extreme styles in
men' shoes Is always speculative, as
this Is one feature In which only the
most radical faddists depart from the
conventional lines. Of these extremes,
however, there are many varieties
launched this season, ostensibly In the
. hope that the attractive hosiery may
carry them to popularity. Among these
styles there are shown suede tops of
various shades, green oxfords, wing
tips, unusual perforations, effeminate
pumps with huge bows and straps,
unique buckles and a patent leather
boot with suede or serge tops in dar
ing colors. In the conventional, kid
and dull and bright velours are. the
fashionable things. There is a ten
dency toward a narrower toe, in the
swing lasts, and as these are very
graceful, they will become favorites.
Blucher oxfords are destined for the
greatest degree of favor, and are very
well thought of In -all the advance
edicts. The two and three-hole ef
fects are most fashionable, and this
style, with- the wing tips", are leaders
with the young men. The conservative
lasts are plain, straight, - medium toe
shapes, and whatever perforations or
stitcnings tnere are on them are of a
subdued nature The leathers are most
ly patent calf, wax calf, vici and Rus
sian calf of a dark shade. JSall or sad
dle straps are shown in the extremes
with saddle rings in place of eyelets,
but It is thought these will be as short
lived as the cumbersome buckle ef
fects of last Summer. Green shoes in
suede and vici are also shown, and
may have some following on account
of the popularity- of green shades In
everything this season, but it is hardly
likely that it will be more than a fleet
ing fad of a few weeks' duration.
SOME FANCIES IN FASHIONABLE JEWELRY
JUST as delving into history has
fashioned the trend of the sea
son's styles in gowns, millinery and
head dress, so has research Into an
tiquity brought out the new Jewelry
effects, ; Some of these fads go' bark
to the Colonial period, some to the
Rococo styles afid some farther bark
Into the vanities of Cleopatra. "Al
though the price of Jewels seems to
advance each, year, this does not seem
t all to feaze Madam l"p to Date.
Some even going to the extent of
sparkling gems in the slipper heels,
garter buckle that are masterpieces
of the Jeweler's art, even corset hooks
et with tiny diamonds, stocking sus
penders with two jeweled studded
buckles of gold, .and little. gold safety
pins to attach them to the corset. Gold
en butterflies with diamond wings for
garter .clasps, black opal handles for
umbrellas and parasols, pearl-studded
gold wire filets for head dress and
girdles 'of flexible woven gold, studded
with pearls have tassels of seed pearls
as swinging ends. These are really
some of the things affected by the
wives and daughters 'of multi-mJUlon-alres
on both sides o'f the globe. One
woman lii New York really introduced
a sunburst tiara of diamonds to which
was attached a concealed mechanism
of machinery that caused it to revolve,
making a, truly dazsHng effect. Wound
tip. the sunburst goes nil evening. This
Is the closest manifestation we have
yet encountered to "wheels In the
head." "
Speaking of tiaras, you must know
that the woman of fashion may as well
appear at a swell function without her
stockings as to go without her tiara.
One ingenious tiara was put cleverly to
gether so that it could be taken apart
at will and converted into a brooch,
pendant, eajrjngs and ornament for
a comb, which was hinged and formed
to slip into the front of the coiffure.
thus serving for a small tiara, ..for
which there is great vogue Just now.
Another tiara may be taken apart to
form a bandeau of diamonds, the upper
part still serving as a tiara and the
center piece forming a pendent. Mrs.
John Drexel. of New York's smart set.
has a crown-like tiara, in which every
stone is set on a pivot to unscrew at
will, and these she alternates with
diamonds,-pearls, or turquoises to har
monize most artistically with the. par
ticular gown Bhe-chooses to wear. One
fad is to have your horoscope cast and
find ou.t tender which sign of the Zo
diac you were horn. Have this sign
carved into an enamel disc surrounded
with your birthstone. This effect on
rings, pins, brooches and necklace is
thought to bring good luck.
These extravagances are, of course,
only of sensational passing interest to
the women of moderate income, but
for her consolation let us say right
here that this season semi-precious
stones are most fashionable. Cameos,
amber, azulite, amethyst, jade, coral,
black opals and Jet are quite the rage!
Watches for women are again com
ing into vogue and naturally this fash
ion is also marked by the extremists.
For Instance, watches are now set in
umbrella handles, bracelets; purses,
and the tiniest of all in a finger ring.'
This worn over the- glove. Also with.
those to whom money is no object.
Directoire
i
Tie
Latest New York
Creation in Foot
wear for Women
Knight's
V FOR
SHOE VALUES
For Easter fe4
SORQSir ft kk
bf course!" jh
V There is no hurt in HANAN SHOES from the
day you buy them until the day you buy the next
.pair.'' ' ' ' 'V . -:
You can wear a size smaller in a HANAN
.SHOE. It fits all over not in spots. ""
Others will iike the looks: you.will like the feel "
of HANAN SHOES. -A'"
When the" foot does the shaping the shoe loses
its style, HANAN SHOES ask nothing of the feet.
Every " occasion has its shoe. There vis a
. V, HANAN SHOE for every occasion.
There is no hurt so irritating and nerve-racking as a shoe hurt, and with a HANAN SHOE
such a hurt is unknown. - ;
The HANAN SHOES are made over HANAN lastslasts ma4 Viv HAJA"Kr " . ? ------
the third generation lasts made after fifty years of study of the true proportions of
the human foot. ' . ;;
In making HANAN SHOES the human foot has been as carefully studied as has
the art of good shoemaking, and they are considered the Standard of Excellence and
smartness . ...
' The Public is cordially invited to inspect our Spring
styles now. on exhibition and for sale only at
ENTHA
; saw?.
PORTLAND'S BEST SHOE STORE SEVENTH and WASHINGTON STREETS
there are card cases and memorandum
books combined, made f "gold, studded
with diamonds and with a diamond-set
pencil. A lorgnette of platinum, en
crusted with diamonds, set . into the
handle. Then again you might get a
pendant of a pear-shaped, canary dia
mond surmounted by a square emerald
it only costs $80,000. Then there are
jewel-set hairpins, hatpins, combs and
dog collars. The directoire neck band
if you please, is to be set in Jewels
to match your gown. Also brilliant
studdings and Jewels of various colors
are to be set into the buttons to match
the gown. Jade and other semi-precious
stones are also fashioned for but
tons and the very newest thing is to
have minatures of one's self and family,
used as buttons.
Hat pins with extremely large tops
are all the go. They are to be worn
the same color as the hat. Gold seal
hatpins, like the gentlemen's - watch
fobs, are very classy. Covered hat
pins of velvet, embroidered in tiny de
signs with gold thread, are also fash-'
ionable. The newest dog collars eo"e
in links of solid jet or in links stud
ded with cut Jet beads. Plain and
clasp gold bracelets are popular. Fans
are again important and the fashion
calls for such huge ones that they
are most awkward. The most favored
are made of satin and lace with ex
tremely long handles. These are also
fashionable for afternoon wear at mati
nees or receptions. Feather fans are
also popular and these, like the ma
terial effects, are to match the gown.
Directoire canes did not find favor
in this country and directoire umbrel
als and parasols have taken their
place. The handles are extremely long
and are made of amber, tortoise or
some fancy wood. English ami French
women are wearing the long pendant
pear-shaped earrings. These should
also be worn the same color as the
gown; pearl, amethyst, jet and coral
being chiefly favored. The newest
necklaces are strings of seed pearls,
supporting a jade, coral or topaz drop.
Amethysts , are also worn a great deal
on account of the amethyst shade be
ing so fashionable in gowns. Long
ropes of coral. Jade and pearls are
kept for satin and evening gowns.
while. Jade, jet, amethyst, topaz, amber
and garnet are worn with afternoon
gowns of corresponding colors. Those
who cannot afford these stones, are
wearing glass beads of similar colors.
In ornaments, rhinedtones are still pop
ular, but the bowknot has practically
displaced the horseshoe design"; You
are pretty, safe for all jewelry purposes
in searching out grandmother's Jewels.
Oriental pearls and diamonds, of course,
are always desirable, but- you can be
right in style with the less costly
stones. Corals are quite the fad, those
of the delicate pink being most pre
ferred. Clouded amethyst, topaz, am
ber, Jet," garnet, 3ade, chrysoprase and
azulite' are very stylish. Freshwater
pearls and turquoise are. also much
worn. Cameos of all descriptions are
in vogue. Don't overlook the fact that
Egyptian and barbaric designs are the
very latest fads, probably brought out
by the Salome craze of last Winter.
' To Hem Table .Linen.
"Every woman who has ever attempt
ed to lay -hems on -napkins -or table'
cloths or to. hem tnem after they art
laid, knows" the Impossibility- of doing
them quickly or well if " tne stiffening
Is net first removed.' ' ' .
Or.e way to get them In proper; condi
tion is to rub the linen between the
fingers and thumbs along the entira
length of the hem. " : "- -
Another and better method Is before
the linen; napkins particularly, is cut
apart; wet it along the line of division
and for about an Inch on each side
with a small todthbrush dipped lrt soap
suds. Not only will the threaa draw
wlth few, if any breaks, "but the Jiera
can. be laid with much greater ease. "
Never attempt to -cut ltnen : by the
eye. It takes little mor time to draw
a thread, and that is. easily made up
by the quickness, and. accuracy with
which the hem is laid, r - -.
In hemming all .-table .li-nen-fold: i
over twice to the desired depth of hem.
then turn back, crease and overcast
neatly on. the wrong side, - This makes
a much neater efTect than hemming-in
the usual wav. .....
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SUITS, COATS AMD SKIRTS
Field's Millinery Department in Connection
ACHESON CLOAK AND SUIT CO
142 FIFTH STREET