THE SUyDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND,
1D09.
UNDERMUSLINS AND NEGLIGEES
For the Newest in Wearing Apparel Visit the' "Style Store"
SOME QUAINT IDEAS
- ' : : ; v.
na DB-iiouncea 1
I
HE he-frilled " and hn.finnn.A
"Fluffy-Ruffles" of . season or
two ago has met ien Waterloo
In the new Empire and Direotolre
tyle that obtain this season. Not
that we must entirely dispense with
the bewitching; frou-frou of muslin and
lingeries, but Its fluffiness must be
subdued If one fs to get the desired
silhouette effect that Bame Fashion de
mands this Spring. In all underpin,
nlng, supple and clinging materials are
demanded, and the folds, -wrinkles and
plaits tabooed. This has had a tendency
to popularize the combination idea in
underwear. Adhering to these styles
precludes the possibility of being a
"lumpy dressed," as George Ade has it.
There are innumerable expressions of
the. combination idea. The most ex
treme combine a. smooth-fitting corset
cover with Knickerbockers, carefully
fitted and without any unnecessary full
ness. These are being made in soft
atins, silks. Italian cloths, nainsook,
mull, dimity and other materials of a
clinging nature. There are really three
Ilsttnct styles of combination garments
shown this Spring, which are meeting
with success. The three-piece, combin
ing corset-cover, drawers and skirt:
the two-piece, combining corset-cover
and skirt or cover and drawers, joined
by ribbon run beading, or the one
piece princess slip, which is probably
the newest and most adaptable to the
present fashions. The princess com
bination is shown both with the draw
ers and cover, or . with the long skirt
and cover, and invariably buttons in
the back. These garments are made in
simple tailored designs or elaborately
trimmed, making them suitable to be
worn with the one-piece lingerie dress
es so popular this season. Another
novelty combination is the sheathbock
er. shown in messaline. Jap silk, sa
teen or nainsook. This gaxmertt com
bines the brassiere close-fitting corset
cover, which is boned over the bust
and in the front, and the Knickerbocker
which is cut circular, fitting the hips
smoothly with a slight blousing at the
knee. Below the knee, the garment
has an elastic band, finished on the
side with bows.. These garments, while
fitting the figure rather closely, are
given Just enough fullness so that they
can take the place of a petticoat and
do in many cases. The brassieres are
simply trimmed with Valenciennes lace
without any trimming on the knicker
bocker. with the exception of the rib
bon bows. These are also shown in
nainsook with brassiere top or with
close-fitting cover. In the latter case,
they are elaborately designed, the cover
being trimmed with lace and Inserted
with medallions, and the knickerbock
ers being trimmed at the foot with a
ribbon run embroidery beading and
frill of lace. Another idea in Italian
silk In a long petticoat slightly Empire
in effect, the silk fitting the form close
ly and extending above the waist line
and fastened above the shoulders by
ribbon bands. 'With the silhouette lln."
the chemisi hax Inst ra.t. . i- 1
...... j IJJUU&Il
the prettiest of undergarments, is for
I the moment not in demand. However
for the benefit of those faithful adher
ents to th chemise, one style that is
very pretty is made with an embroid
ered scallop around 'both the neck and
the bottom of the garment, of course,
using a deeper scallop for the bottom.
Slits should be cut and worked to run
the ribbon through, and, If desired, a
small monogram embroidered on the
left side about an inch .below the top.
The bands to the small puff sleeve have
a few single flowers embroidered on
them. In corset-cover styles there is
not much new, with the exception that
they are not cut on quite as full lines
as formerly. Many of these garments
are made with pepulums in order to do
away with any superfluous fullness
over the hips. Semi-fitted corset-covers
are made In one piece with the armhole
shaped out and the top properly dipped
at top and sloped at front, the edge
scalloped, and a pretty design em
broidered below the embroidered eye
lets, through which ribbons are to be
run. A narrow galon embroidered to
match comes separately for the shoul
der straps that has only to be sewed
to places that are shown by the spaces
that are left at the top edge, and the
size will fit a woman over medium
build. The corset comes in a one and
a quarter yard shaped piece and the
galon in a three-quarter yard strip.
The material preferred is a soft finish
nainsook. Nearly all corset-covers now
are fastened in the back. Puffed sleeves
are principally used on both corset
covers and chemise now.' Circular de
signs are extensively shown in drawers.
These garments fit smoothly over the
hips, with the leg of each drawer of
such width that they can take the
place of a short skirt. Nightgowns are.
it seems, lovelier than ever before
Here the Empire effect Is evidenced
in the short waist line' instead of fall
ing straight from the shoulders or from
a yoke. The fad of flat trimming ef
fects, too, has its influence on the
nightgowns, as through all, the realm
of underwear, and though many night
gowns are exquisitely elaborated with
delicate embroidery, fine tuckings and
insert lace, few frills are in evidence
An occasional model shows a long
sleeve, but this is a trifle absurd in
connection with the very low neck
which is the rule in the line night
gowns, and the sleeves are usually
short and often fanciful. One of the
fanciful effects that is charming is the
lacing of ribbon up the outside of the
sleeve and shoulder. Dainty night
gowns are now made with vidi t-.,..v.
collars and line embrolderv ri..r..
and edged with lace. Down the front
from collar to waist is a four-inch jabot
of lace and embroidery. Here and
there are nnf flpnlr. . i i
o uuuun.
Petticoats are, of course, built on new
lines, Deing sort and clinging, so that
no bulging will mar the grace of. the
Skirt. The matpriol m,,a 1.- a
soft and carefully shaped and fitted.
peincoais snow little change. The
tops are possibly fitted a little more,
and there is a noticeable absence of
flounces and frills. In all underwear
dotted swiss is growing in favor, as it
f. ?Jf for negligees. Cross-barred
dimities and muslins are, also very pop
ular. The various kinds' of cambrics,
irench. nainsook, marzalia, . fine lawns
and linens are all good. In embroid
eries the nainsooks are preferred, and
in laces the French and German Valen
ciennes are always dainty and pretty.
The German variety is the best wear
ing. Linen torchons,- while more e
pensive, are sufficiently more durable
to make them worth consideration to
the economist. Prettiest of all in skill
ful hands is the hand-made embroid
eries, whether it is simply a scalloped
edge or has an addition of-some de
sign. UNDER the general head of negli
gees, there are man, garments
which are -fascinatingly . pretty,
and are made, purposely for wearing to
breakfast., during convalescence or to
receive in. The mandate -comes from
Paris that a mantle of renaissance
scheme has displaced the kimona,
though we have seen few of these
styles over here as yet. The kimona,
however, is not so much shown this
Spring as the jackets cut on the blouse
style, with either leg-of-mutton sleeves
or the half-sleeve, islightly puffed and
banded just below'- the elbow. The
necks are cut rather low and the collar
takes a sailor shape across the back.
Many have th plain effect across the
shoulders, the separately cut straight
long sleeves, and the s-plit sash ribbon
band, bordering neck, fronts and
sleeves, and are sash-belted. Others
nave wide turned-down collars and
sleeves fastening up the middle with
an edging of lace. The materials most
favored for Spring are cotton crepes,
imitation silks, printed foulards, crepe
de chine, French nainsooks, batistes,
challis and Japanese weaves. India
silks, trimmed with Valenciennes lace
are also very popular. A dainty con
ception in a dressing sacque is made
with tucks at the shoulders to give an
added fullness around the hips, while
th entire outer edge may be finished
with bands of "iuuon, or with bands of
the material itself, embroidered In a
conventional design. In tea . gowns
some of the more expensive effects are
shown in chiffon cloth, tucked . and
trimmed with net on which lace de
signs have been appliqued, and finished
with ribbon. These can he copied with
less expense by the substitution of
nun's veiling or cashmere, and trimmed
with bits of lace or embroidery, that
you may have around the house, put on
a foundation and used in a yoke or col
lar. Crepe striped stuffs in monotone
colorings are very fashionable, . and in
both thle mnt.rial -fc. V. ; at
, - - 011. (.iiiuuns some
charmingly dainty models are shown
.. arrangements and lace
sleeves and are made on the Empire
styles. Soft satins, too, are - popular
often in combination with the crepe or
chiffon or net, and some are so elab
orate that the line is very vague be
tween these Empire tea gowns and the
Empire frocks for formal wear..
COIFFURE STYLES SHOW GREAT CHANGES
INQTJIRV made recently of a fashion
able hairdresser. regarding the
probability of a change in ti e coif
fure arrangements, revealed the fact
that the change was already quite pro
nounced and was due entirely from
necessity to conform with the exacting
demands of the new millinery trend.
The pompauour is quite - outre" and the
modish manur In which to arrange
the hair I, with the part in the middle
brought to stand put at the sides, but
not to cover the ears. Then it is car
ried half way to the top of the head
In the back, where it falls In a shower
of puffs and ringlets. This stylo is the
reigning fashion in Paris this Spring
Ciustnt and picturesque arrangements
of this sort have teen introduced over
hre with much favor by Americans re
turning from abroad. The hair in this
style Is not waved, but is made very
fluffr in appearance by frequent sham
tootng. This effect is especially charm.
Ins in girls in their teens, with light
eolored ribbons or silver or gold bands
in the hair.
'The best coiffeurs now aim at the nn-
.. ..,. viicciv . .na t.oman stvies. wit
Simrlit-irv tl.B lrA-nnA 4 .
feet simplicity was the keynote of the
uiiiu umiuens. i ne met tha
Onco adorned the elAeel,. v.-. r -
clan men and women alike has returned
me lasmon now. ror evening,
ideal Oreek rniflfura 1. . ,- j '
. ' n't.HftrU i . .
triple rolls with narrow braid of velvet
or metallic ribbon, gold especially sep
arating each loose puff. The ends of
the hair are curled to fall In myriads of
vpr trie dbck or tne head
t ne nape of the neck. Jeweled bands
aie much employed in separating the
puffs. The simple Grecian coiffure is
best suited to the average woman who
elects to follow in a conservative way
the trend of frivolous fashion. This is
arranged over one roll of moderate size
and caught at the back with a band or
comb shaped for the purpose.
Various forms of the Psyche knot are
very fashionable and are especially
adaptable for use of many, false curls
and puffs. To -most successfullv arrange
the low Psyche knot, the hair should
first be parted across the top o the
bead from ear to ear and the hair at
the back of the head securely tied, to
give a solid foundation to which to
fasten the false parts. There must also
be ample looseness below tue tying for
the soft puffed effect at the nape of the
i ,Sma" r'1S ate suSSfd to ho I
the hair out at the-sides. , The front
. . arranged In any
-"-- inai is suited to .he
C5 inspiration has the knot "sur
u . soix con, while
another design shows both coil
curls.
th., r,as, thc hafdresser terms
them. I rench fringe, are fashionable
but not as much favored over here-as
they are on the other side. For the
de-
indi-
of
ir-
le still
and
HATS, COATS, SUITS, WAISTS, GOWNS, SKIRTS
PETTICOATS, ETC., OF THE NEWEST DE- '
SIGNING ARE ALWAYS SEEN FJRST
AT THE " STYLE STORE."
" This store is' firmly established in Portland as a fashion
emporium for both men and women, as .it meets the radical
conservative and everyday demands of - all up-to-the-minute
dressers.
e e yu your cordial attendance at our Annual
Spring Opening Tuesday evening, and wish to invite you to
v!sit us this week, while everything is newest, and see our hats
suits and gowns more closely. We appreciate comparisons, as'
our garments are unreservedly the fewest styles and best values
for-the prices asked.
Easter llileeiry
- Tis well to choose your Easter Hat early and not be rushed
the. last minute. We are showing an unusually extensive number-of
exclusive models in street hats to harmonize . with the
new street- costumes. They-. are of milan, hemp,-tuscan and
horsehair braids, and all the new fancy . straws. Among the
dress and semi-dress hats are the new poke bonnet, flower pot,
beehive, Mane Louise and many other favorite French shapes
trimmed in flowers fruits, bands of jet discs, 'etc. If it is a
Style Store" hat it is the correct mode. '.'"'
Greatest farietj .in Suits
Nd Portland establishment ever "displayed such a great
variety of tailored costumes of exclusive designs as we are
now showing in our suit section. Newest Novelty Suits of Billy
envelope modes. ' Tailored
Jacket Suits in all the new colors and - materials, cut on -the
hipless lines for from $20 up. Three-Piece Suits, which areow
so universally worn in the East they combine the long-sleeved
neat-fitting waist and skirt with the coat of Louis mode of the
same material. Very becoming and practical.
ALTERATIONS FREE -We have expert fitters in con
stant attendance and make no charges for alterations.
EASTERM
OUTFTFTING CO.
CORNER WASHINGTON AND TENTH
. The Store Where Your Credit Is Good
VV Att V .
k ft , 'i j
$ ft & i -
woman with an unusually high fore
head, this idea will be most welcome,
for the outline of the face Is softened
by them. If the straight bang is not
becoming, . let the wearer put a few
waves in the fringe to soften the ef
fect. These flat and Psyche stvies
make barettes very popular, also vari
ous ideas in hair ornaments made of
tulle or maline, powdered with rhine
stone beads and finished with a dainty
aigrette to match. The coronet, the co
quettish bow. a little half. wreath of
roses or forget-me-nots, manufactured
out or ribbons, are the rage for evening
dress, as also are feathers.. For street
wear, tortoise shell, jet and coral orna
ments are in vogue.
NECKWEAR
STOCKS, jabots, collars, ruffs and
neck frills are an important fea
ture of the well-dressed woman's
costume of today, and she can hardlv
have too many of them. The practical
stocks are the most popular, and they
can be made ' to look as dainty and
fluffy as the most perishable ones.
Irish crochet lace plays an important
part in every kind of neckwear. Cluny
lace can also be combined with fine
-- , ... stimuli. ni necKwear
all stvlaa will l . . . . .
. mm tne nitrti
neck, the high-boned stock, the' turn
oer linen collars, in Eton and Dutch,
styles, and also the Piccadilljr and muf
2 stock will be worn. Becomingness
and the character of the gown and its
place of wearing must be considered.
When warm weather comes. aU sorts
of charming neck dressings will be
seen, and every woman will have no
end of varying fashions to choose from
Among the correct things of the season
are the close, high stocks, which have
supplanted the stiff linen collar. Some
of these are made of tucked net with
a ruche at top. and some sort of little
cravat at the bottom; another is a
charming liaDd-embroidered stock of
flnPRf lihon 1. . . . . ....
- tia-vat una Trill or
"- "hm-k or Sim with era
vat and bow or -with-frills of lingeri
or net. Then there are silk stocks
of black taffeta, with plaited frills of
U RY.cnes are very popular just
now. These are made in combination
of baby Irish lace, fine lingerie mate
rial and real Valenciennes lace. Baby
Irish is also used in connection with
Sl!1ye,mbro!derei batiste or linen.
Real Cluny is also popular. In jabots
particular prominence is given to Irish
lace and heavy lace-trimmed effects.
Besides these, pretty Dutch collars, low
turned-down collars in sheer embroid
ered linen, with cuffs to match, the
Elizabethan l-nfTa or, --;n ,
- Mun, auu nun-
I dreds of nihvr r,,, .i j ,!... ...
i are now cl..,i.. I . . .v.. . .
J " -auuiig. lo set OUT
.... ,...r ,,wi.
: " - . i.M- r.iu('K or SUK with rrn. I
W&mT) ALLISON'S
LONDON T,AniRR' tati rvc rv -r
PXjiSk i :
-
tXDEB DISTlXGlJISIlEO TATRONAUE-
SoE?ttx?i4N? DESIGNERS OF HIGH-CLASS
COSTUMES FOR WOMEN WHO KNOW
lH ."nd G"M'I Much Admired
and Appreciated by Vell-Irescd Women '
Wc Try to Please the Most Fastidious
"Courteous Treatment and Punctuality Our Motto'
-r- fa.
WELLS-FARGO BUILDING
PORTLAND, OR.
-"