THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, .PORTLAND. MARCH 28, 1909.
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FADS AND FANCIES IN MILLINERY
IN PPITE of the many- whisperings that
emanated from Paris last season tliat
the hats would be. exceedingly small
for Spring, the prophecy has not been
realized on. this side. It is true that
lat '.Winter when Paris wan In the mtdst
of the big hat throes, several of the most
fashionable Parisian actresses made an
effort to turn the tide' by appearing In
extremely small hatH. However, they had
but slight effect, and the only conces-
"" J,LXCC!!Mofr:':'KWfr:' '" w v v?7r-''1'- -
x . I III . - - -
f ,4 fets. V. w felt .
HV A VVi'3wVlO 4&- be favored. Gold and silver cloth cabo-
f-J A sXv? CSwVv?' J I Cl'0ns are also Popular. Motoring hats
? , Y Z Sy'- 2 1 5 . of the poke effects with large
W -JL isHiWt -TJ I? chiffon veils. Mourning hats are nearly
i s , v jXSx k Q2?il V ''L.it y 'v ' ' H ma3e on -wire frames, covered either
' f I JSfrJ .wiih cr'pe or d"n silk- Tulle- creP or
: i VW k Jts-" &&fl Pi ' taffeta bows, stiffly wired, are the usual
Tdr A W ? " I ?JF&&& Au5?J& trimmings, though black quills and wings
V '-1.V SiJJ t j fVSSfTlV? 4tJ&J'sn"-J 4 x "re ering in popularity. The straws
' Ut TbT4. W ' &HpTgkAi &&tU08 4 L!la wilL be Principally used on the
I X T-kLi ff ! f Simng hats are fine chips. Yeddas.
t '',agJ V ff -A Milans. hemp, real hair and Tagail.
1 ' r seLi m tm?t' Smooth braids rill be used chiefly to the
fSCC Wk $t -y,jriiiJi ff flnpr hats- though some medium rough
Pi' W I Vjr3fJ ''' 4 Pffg , brhk1s are shown. All Winter long
V jSiP!r ?y JJUjri' fashion has demanded that the hat match
C 1 'i Jfkiv iiWJ 5 t JrJ ' X, tne gown absolutely, in shade and color.
' JtfrK ii? 4i' tSkjf tf ft X I m nil ' bUt nOW a 1,at of contrasting color is
; s Cife CTv i V, TST encouraged. The latest fad is perfuming
' j! vtJL y i P: "!5l-,ji5WpJ Jhc hat with the scent of the flowers
j 'l 1 L 'XV U$y?J' Ty-bii ThiB anicIe W"'1 not be complete
V V jW, i Fl AV r without mention of the opera - hoods.
. 1 V, 1 J&v!S If fK "'lit- which will be worn until the weather
IsSiSSiA W4 f '' Ml demands retreat to the Summer resorts,
f 't LfViH -ssAs' j ?iVsA f T s " These are constructed so that thy do not
?L M f' I" i - muss the hair. They are always built on a
s 'IIWI . Kf ' V vy iff ::?' v frame of good size and covered with
i , Ai tVta. "Q V? ill t I t t ( ' shirred chiffon and tiny chiffon flounc-
tf AF&J ! i i t V If? ti ' f inss- They are made of tattetaT and
tf ATf i ti W fO m f ' l around the edge may be lace ruffles,
. Wn 7 ,'. '
ft
sions ma.le are rcflo. toil in the turhuns.
which are slightly smaller than the Merry
Widows, but what they lack in width
they made up In cubic inches by thoir
height. There are more freak styles or
dained for this season than we have
ever encountered before. Fkuno are like
funnels; other suggest a cohI hod. cover
ing l.alf the face ,uid all the hair: then
there are t lie Tallica casques, the Tolish
."chspKka. the Bagdad turban, the Moujlk,
Ihe old-time page's turban, and a pot
haped hat that has no heritage that
ran be traced. Yet these strange, curious
fancies are bewitching. In most of these
the head sinks into them-deeply aad Wio
faco peeps out piquantly. Nearly all these
hats are made without bandeaux and
must be worn with Imlr flat on tup of the
head and set on the new Psyche knots
quite comfortably. These hats made the
new coiffure styles Imperative and
sounded the death knell of the pompa
dour. Of course, there are many small
hats shown, but they have unnatural,
large crowns, so that the effect is top
heavy. An effort has been made to show
In the illustration!! above examples of
both the small and the large hats, as well
as some of the extreme shapes, to give
an idea of the general trend, but the
variety of styles and effects are so varie
gated that one must so to the shops to
adjust your ideas of Individual prefer
ment. Overturned shells will be very
popular this season. In these the head
tits up under the concave side with the
straight down turning brim, throwing a
deep shadow over the face and hair. On
the. top or rounded side are heaped
flowers, foliage and ribbon rosettes in
such profusion that very little straw is
visible except at the edge of the brim.
If wings are used, they lay flat across the
top of the hat and are strapped down
with bands, rafeachon trimmings of silk,
chiffon, ribbon and flower petals will be
; very popular. and streamers, knotted
beneatn the chin or back of one ear
promise to have a decided vogue. On
all hats the brims show a decided ten
dency to droop, but must not be con
fused with the mushroom shape, as they
re somewhat different. Among the
) strongest favorites for early wear are
large turbans of the Bagdad and Spanish
order In cloche and draped effects. Some
of these draped turbsna an raiuj
Soudan, and are suggestive of "the head
dress of that country. They are made
from deep hair and straw cones, and are
simply trimmed wh quills or Mephisto
effects, finished with a large, dull jet
beaded cabachon. These turbans are very
large and are worn well down over the
hearf. well forward and slightly on the
right side. There are also some fetching
poke effects and some models turned up
on one side and down on the other. The
trimmings are soft, lustrous satins In
ribbons and piece goods, chiffons and
mallnes. Some of the early January
models for Southern tourists showed the
entire crown and much of the brim
swathed In folds, ending with an enor
mous loose folding rosette on the side.
In the feather line, quills in straight and
curled effects, generally used in bunches,
wings in long pointed designs and Me
phisto effects. All tlie feather effects are
placed low. excepting the Mephisto
which 1 upright. Foliage will be usjd
extensively as the season advances, and
in these there u a predominance of
American Beauty treatment, combined
with lilacs. Also lilies-of-the-valley,
nasturtiums and large asters. White
plumes will be used a great deal and
also satin ribbon effects in bows, rosettes
and loops. Ornaments in the form of
cabochons and large buckles principally
in dull jet bead and cut steel effects wiil
plaitings of taffeta or chiffon, or finished
about the face with dainty flowers. Many
have huge strings of taffeta to tie under
the chin.
FABRICS, AND COLORS NOW IN VOGUE
THE conspicuous note in materials
for the season just past has been
the satins, messalines and broad
cloths. Satins and messalines In
particular were popular from their
clinging nature, which has such
a desirable adjunct to the styles of
this period. That same style prevails
for Spring, and therefore these mate
rials, in seasonable weights, will ob
tain during the coming months. Broad
cloths also, of' a lighter nature, will
be very popular. Black satin-faced
fabrics are getting stronger every day
in favor and will be conspicuous for
evening wear, even during the warm
months at the more fashionable resorts.
Blacks will also command attention in
silk and woolen textures and are shown
extensively in line serges, soleils. in
visible stripes and checks for street
wear. Corded silks are predicted to
be wanted and .dealers everywhere are
laying in great quantities of this char
acter of fabric. Foulards are very
fashionable for this season, and while
they are shown In both heroic and
small designs, in the main the small
figures will be most favored.
Conventional figures and modified
geometries take precedence over the
floral designs. . This is also true in
wash goods. Plaids will not be very
popular this season, excepting for
school girls and children. The tenden
cy is more toward plain fabrics.
Mixtures and small checks are the
predominant note of woolen fabrics.
The: newest fabrics for Spring show
a lot of old rose, dull pink, faded pink,
resedas, olives, bronzes and many
shades of green. Hunter's green will
be especially fashionable. Pansy shades
show many exquisite treatments. High
grade cream colors are very fashiona
ble and will be worn much in light
weight broadcloths. In millinery, too,
corded silks will be popular, especial
ly in bengallnes and crystals.
In the wash goods fabrics, it Is a
certainty that ginghams will be very
marked in preferment. Wash fabrics
at tbout fifty cents a yard -are mostly
shown in printed goods, self-figured
effects and brilliant surfaced cloths,
that have the appearance of pure silk.
Some of these are advertised for eve
ning wear. Crinkled crepe novelties
in light fabrics that have the appear
ance of crinkled silk are shown by
smart shops. In wash fabrics the light
shades of brown and tan are extremely
good. Blues are also stylish in all
tones of the shade. Copenhagen and
green-blue shades that have been so
popular in wool goods are now shown
in wash fabrics. Other good shades
in wash materials are heliotropes, pur
ple; grays and smoke.
The Spring fabrics will be lustrous,
and it is therefore to be presumed that
the various mohairs will be largely
worn, and as late as next Autumn as
well. In tussahs there is a lustrous fin
ish that promises to be smart. Rough
weave linens, French linens .and Shan
tung linens will be very popular for
one-piece frocks, but pique seems to
have the preference for outing suits.
Open-mesh goods and crash will also
have extensive following. Himalaya
cloth, closely resembling the genuine
Shantung, is a newcomer in gown ma
terial. It is a double mercerized cloth,
has the small knots like the Shan
tung and can be washed and ironed
many times without affecting the knots.
It can be used for anything from petti
coats to gowns and dust coats. Crink
ly crepes, on the order of the Japa
nese crepes, which, by the way, are
made in France, are shown in both
plain and figured effects of both large
and small designs. Floral designs are
very popular in this material, chiefly
rosebud and wistaria. In wash pop
lins there is a new effect. It is a
double-bordered sort, forty-eight inch
es wide, with a border at each edge.
In these fabrics the body is the plain
poplin, and the borders, so far, are
In plain ribbon types, the ribbons be
ing bands of graduated widths.
For evening wear and elegant after
noon costumes, dark colors are ex
ceedingly fashionable this season. Blue
is worn more than it has been for
years. Various shades of green, most
of them showing yellowish tones and
including hunters' green and laurel,
are favorites. Grey Is seen In many
shades and the new tones run from
London smoke to silver and putty
One of the loveliest of the new shades
is called grape or Concord. Catawba
is also very fashionable and wistaria,
a new shade of lavender, is quite the
rage. Browns in reddish cedar tones
are good, but all browns must be se
lected with discretion, as they are be
coming to but few. Pinks are very
fashionable in Paris now. and there
fore will be here very soon. Faded
pink, old rose, coral and a new rasp
berry pink are shown In all materials
from silks to broadcloth. Taupe is
still populas. as is amethyst, salmon,
fruit red. citron yellow, lemon, mus
tard, orchid, mauve and pastel shades
TT'TTT. fK T7
IT IFLjPL
S
409 WASHINGTON ST. BET. 10TH AND 11TH
AVe want every woman in Portland, with mind made up to
purchase her Spring suit Monday, to think FRAKES -and
we also want every woman with indefinite suit-buvino-intentions
to visit FRAKES ' greater store Mondav We
honestly believe that we have, in this gigantic garment offer
ing absolutely the strongest values, the prettiest styles and
the biggest variety in strictly high-grade tailored suits ever
placed before the buying public by any store1 in the West.
j Over 600 Exclusive New Spring Models in ThU Sale
$29.50
$24.75
200 Sample Garments
Values to $60, Monday
180 Makers' Samples
Values to $45, Monday
A style and fabric to suit every individual taste, no matter
how fastidious or diswriminntincr nno mr l,n tu 4.
o "v.. im- ttimeuL
you have in mind will be on sale Monday at FRAKES .
Important to Garment Buyers
Our fitting rooms are under the direction of the most expert fit
ters we have been able to find. And every garment must be and
is perfect in fit and in every detail before it leaves this house.
MILLINERY
2 $495
200 Tailored, Street
and Dress Hats
Values $12.50 to $20
The champion trimmed - hat sale down to date.
Choicest and most desirable new shapes for Spring
wear. All straws and fancy braids, trimmed in
the latest New York and Parisian stvles. with
beautiful feathers, sweeps, aigrettes.- buckles, or
naments, ribbons and imported French roses
also a magnificent exhibit of blacks. Had these
hats been. produced under ordinary conditions the
prices would range from $12.50 to 20.U0. Heady
for the biggest millinery business Monday, with
positively the best, handsomest and most attract
ive 4.9d hat ever placed on sale anywhere. 2d floor.
HAIR GOODS
Back Combs and Barrettes
Without question Frakea has the most complete
largest and most satisfactory Hair tlonla and Hair
Ornaments stock on the Coast. Kverything in
rolls, switches, pomps.-Billy Burke puffs and curls
Paris puffs, and novelties at cut prices:
10.00 Natural Wavy Switches TS
$3.50 set of six Puffs izIOO
Ooods made to order from combings.
Frakes buys cut hair and combings.
HAIlt mtrcsSING. M.VMCIKIXG.
A competent staff of skilled hair dressers and
manicurists Is one of the features of Frakes Toi
let Parlors.
Shampooing, 50. Hairdresslng. 35c and SOc.
Manicuring, 25c.
Don't believe there is. anything better for the price than at FRAKES.
See tor yourself , use your own judgment, make your own comparisons
"IF IT GOMEg, FROM FRAKES IT'S CORRECT""
409
Washington St.
FRAKES
409
Washington St,
To the ladies of SALEM: We take pleasure in announc- 1I'rir A "V
ing the opening of our NEW STORE on Commercial 1 iwTvS, Ja"
treet, under the management of Miss M. D. Evens TUESIDA,Y
Our opening display will be the largest, most comprehensive' and exclu
sive exhibition of Suits, Millinery and Hair Goods ever shown in your city
of ciel. Fashionable shades of brown
being most favored are" dark seal, Ha
vana and leaf brown. Kahki. buff and
suede are also favored. Jh-onze, Nile
green, apricot, aubergine or eggplant
are wondrously rich in tone. Peacock
tints, gold, silver. - steel. mulberry.
maize, plum and prune are most styl
ish. Reseda, olive and Empire greens
are fashionable for street suits. Taupe,
prune and dul' blue are stylish for
carriage gowns. Atlantic green Is very
high in favor for young girls. These
cover a wide gamut of color, but the
dyer and chemist has never befora
had such glowing opportunities as hava
been given him this season. The ex
quisite showing of color in quasl-tones
indicates that he has realized his re
sponsibilties to the utmost. The new
color treatments are truly evpnescent.
Style
Distinction
Refined
Taste -
and
Just two swagger suggestions, sketched from the goods. The
lines are right. We're proud and pleased to show them.
Genuine
Worth
are noteworthy
characteristics
of our.
SPRING
APPAREL
It's a value show
ing and a style
showing. It's going
to be a time-saving
and a money-saving
visit if you visit
the "Exclusive
Style Shop" when
purchasing your
new Spring Suit
DRAKE SWAN CO
415 WASHINGTON ST.. COR. ELEVENTH
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