TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 28. 1909.
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I & SJfrjFfJW&t '$lTkf i AFTERNOON GOWN. Illll si ti!!k 'VX7
ii IH'"' . Wrt Just clear the ground, but M .the llllf J J & 4 f ' f i J& 4
4. I ' Bon advance there U no Question but V Ml 1 1 l W itT
X- JV-S? I ? 55 - """"-t shorter skirts will be in vogue. - Jni ' kXX&SliiW f
2&rZ& h -aSrKT I Lingerie dresses are being, made of . ' . " HiiB ' 92$ ' x .
sLV " V f Tf 1 sheerest mull without a bit of lace of M!SHy'r
17?i&ISi$l -5 . ny Wnd, but. covered with a bold floral II -N , Sf" ' I
i af I "Viivss" ' ' ST ' '' des'n Jne In white and richly raised. W . , lA
I, I n I aesign is massed about tne bust, I. ' T,
--T I1 .r I Kl ' I waist and hips, the skirt set on to the I MnmUMmMUMJliimiumMmmmmmmmmm.mi.9!ntBmmMmm i i i J1 1
SMART RECEPTION TOIUETE.
it
M
AY your ' shadow ' oiever yrow
less" is an old toast that would
not be accepted with much fa
vor by the women who strive for correct i
fashion effect this season. In fact,, the j
efforts are being made by ail to reduce
the shadow tor- a minimum. The sil
houette effect is the one dominant note
Of all the gowns, dresses and suits for
this Spring and Summer, and never , be
fore has one style been, so. uniformly ac
cepted as this one. Figures, hairdress
and even the natural walk have been al
tered to conform with the present styles,
llow long this fashion will reign is "spec
ulative, but t is safe to say that all this
season and well into the next the Direc
toire and Empire styles' will obtain. They
certainly . are .graceful.. and picturesque,
and one color idea from head to foot
keeps well in hand the woman who in
other days was prone to inharmonious
color comhlJietiona., The long, close-flt-tlng
sleeve and the Jiigh waist line are
seen in everything In the shape of gown
or dress.-Thls style in Itself Insures sim
plicity in effect. This is always artistic
hence welcome. When we adhere to
the graceful lines of Nature we are much
closer to graceful symmetry than we
were with the exaggerated sleeve effect
and accentuated waist and hips of a few
seasons1 back. Therefore, remember to
be in accord with the season's edicts you
must adopt the close-fitting- sleeve, the
high waist line and the narrow skirt. A
skirt two yards and a half wide is the
strictly proper -thing, but if you Insist
wpon exacting a greater desrree of com
fort, fashion, conciliates by allowing you
to go to the extent of three or even four
ysrds, but there you must halt, for be
yond that you are "outre." In your
gowns you are permitted to choose be
tween two effects, the close or semi
fitted princess that clings or to-the draped
effect made with, soft, limp materials
that will do the clinging for you. Either
of these styles will give you the tube or
silhouette appearance so arbitrarily de
manded. Another marked tendency of
the present styles is noted In the evening
toilettes of the decollette effect. The
square decolette effect is for the time
being supplanted by the V shapes. In
tnese gowns the:, fuller drapery effect
under the bust Is conspicuous and is a
welcome compromise to many who found
the severe' flat effect vers Irvine, but In
the hipless feature of the skirts there are
no concessions made. The nearest thing
to a concession is in the overskirt and
ouhle-&klrted -styles, vwhlch. however.
must be draped to preserve the clinging
effert. This is accomplished by the use
of supple materials and by draping the
ver part - nig n up on the figure or by
making , the frent short and the back
mg. or" vice versa, to conform with in
dividual" prefernfcnt. The old Greek
peplum styles are very fashionable just
now, with the top of the -overskirt com
ing well over the bust, and what little
fullness there is being drawn in at the
waist ajnt then allowed to fall in soft
folds over the "hips and at the sides. To
mane tne overskirt costume successful
the undersktrishould be long, if -not with
trains at least-a couple of inches on the
ground. ,For early Spring wear and for
evening gowns., however, trains are the
thing. vea f-r afternoon costumes the
fishtail trains, or what has been called
the mertuaid effect, 'are being shown In
the smartest circles. .Greek and Roman
i"-jjed effects are shdwn on nearly all
ine gowns, in some of ... the smartest
gowns brought over .recently there is
decided dip at the back and a noticeable
loping at , the front of the ; tunic, -de
signed to ireveaJ the- dlrectoire sash,
trimming the underskirt and ending in a
fancy bow in front. Tne sash is put on
after the skirt Is completed and is caught
aoout tne skirt Just below the knees.
This ample-overskirt is a departure from
tne sheath skirt, and to produce the de
sired lines miift be a material of a cling
adhere to the color scheme of the bodice
decorations. In coats, the long straight
lines must be preserved and the coat
must be but slightly fitted at the back.
Cutaway fronts are shown on neariv
everything. These are caught together
across the bust with buttons, which, by
the way, are very important this season.
Many of the coats are left open and a
smart waistcoat shown underneath. On
these garments two styles of sleeves
show the most popularity the full coat
sleeve with the turnback cuff and the
close-fltted model without a cuff. Some
are made with pointed reveres, while
others are shown with the high Consulate
couar, wmcn are very effective with
women of slender necks. Some are also
made collarless, to be worn with sep
arate ruffs. In all these coata severe
tailored lines are the most fashionable
and coverts and broadcloths are the ma
terials most favored. The lengths will
vary from 32 to 42 Inches, according to
the style of the garment. Advance stvlea
Indicate that 36-inch lengths will be the
most popular. in two and three-piece
suits the semi-fitted coats, and hloless
skirts are correct. The coats .are-all out
in a manner that make thent -short-walsted
and ere of the cutaway "style
with rounded corners. They show one.
two and three buttons and mock button
holes. All these coats hang . loose from
the bust and are from 32 to 3e-incK
lengths. Sleeves are of the coat shape.
witnout fullness at the top.. In these
snits there is a tendency toward plain
fabrics, although self , stripes, mixtures
and regulation fancies are widely shown.
lapels are shown on everything. . The
Napoleon collar is a feature of the new
garments. It is made of thevsame or
contrasting material, gold embroidery et.
fects being very fashionable. It is -very
high, rolls over In a huge sweep and
fastens with a scarf. The skirts are fin
ished in -habit style, and the best effects
are fastened In front, for the back panel
and belt are cut In one. Buttons are the
most favored trimmings. In many model
the. sides lap over a narrow front panel
in plait fashion and the skirt fasten
on the left side under the plait. The
skirts 5ust clear the ground, but as the
season advances there is no question but
what shorter skirts will be in vogue.
Lingerie dresses are being, made of
sheerest mull without a bit of lace of
any kind, but. covered with a bold floral
design done In white and richly raised.
The design Is massed about the bust,
waist and hips, the skirt set on to the
bodice with a beading and a sash wound
looseljr twice about the figure, but
weighted at .the ends. This sash is in
printed silk, with the design massed on
the ends above deep fringe. The neck
and hem of the mull gown are trimmed
simply with hemstitching and tucks and
CARRIAGE GOWNS AND WALKING SUITS.
the short embroidered sleeve is straight
and wide enough to reveal the arm bare
to the shoulder, its hem plain.
NOVELTIES AND VANITIES
w
-OMEN'S dress accessories have
never been shown in a wider and
more fetching range of styles than
during the present season. The current
e-tyles are especially adaptable to the
use of accessories. The dlrectoire' trend
Is particularly conducive to girdles,
buckles and button novelties. . Buttons
are, in a large measure, of enameled
effects in colors to coincide with the.
gowns, such as green, blue and rose.
The button trimming Is a strong, feature
of the new gowns. Gold buttons, bur
nished and dull oxidized silver effects are
popular as are all the mold effects cov
ered with silk. Jet and cut steel novel-
It's the
Fashion
TO CONSULT
Dr.B.LWright
IF YOU DESIRE
THE BEST IN DENTISTRY
PAINLESSLY ADMINISTERED
. 342 i Washington St
CORKER SEVENTH.
Office Honrs 8 A. M. to 5 J.
M. Sundays, A. M. to 12 M.
l4 TEARS IN PORTLAND.
ties In buttons and buckles are fashion
able, the latter especially so on hats. In
girdles and fancy belts satins with fringe
or tassel ends are quite a feature of
the Spring styles. 'By the way, the true
dlrectoire girdle laces or fastens at the
side. The well-dressed woman spends a
goodly portion of her allowance on pretty
belts. For the severe tailor-made type,
the plain leather belt is most desirable;
there Is a variety of width, color and
the shaping of the buckle. Very pretty
effects are in .colored moroccos, with
leather thongs' of a -contrasting shade
threaded through. Buckles covered with
stoft leather, studded or embroidered with
steel qr other metal, are on many of the
wide belts. The most ornate elides are
reserved for silk, ribbon and elastic belts.
Narrow patent leather belts in all fash
ionable colors and white are very smart
Combination white and black patent
leather belts are also shown. The most
fashionable buckle effects of today -are
the old-fashioned designs of our. grand
mothers, brooches set in coral, iet.
cameo, amethyst, turquoise, matrix, iajta.
topaz, pearls and garnet. Even mother
of pearl and amber are desirable. - These
can be set for buckles and clasps at a
very small cost. Tinsel tissues embroi
dered In Persian designs of gold or silver
threading are Very fashionable. Suede
and ooze belts are also stylish.
eit pm novelties are taking the n!a
of girdlea in' many quarters as the new
style tendencies are to conceal the waist
line rather than to accentuate it. Hat
pins are chiefly shown In sold and sil-
CHARMING EASTER
MILLINERY
AT POPULAR PRICES
145-147 SECOND STREET
Becoming . . Hata. for
. everybody at . every
: body's : price. Best
' -Styles j best materials
and 'best values-r these
are the reasons for the
great popularity of this
.' big hew . ; store. ' " We-
have " inade " extraordi- - -nary
preparations for ;
the Easter trade; our:
grand collection of- '
pretty,- stylish Hats is .
- unsurpassed, and our
moderate prices are un- s
, equaled by any Port-.
: land house. ' Splendid
Trimmed Hats
$2.95 and $3.95.
We Sell the BEST $5.00 HAT in America
Charming Tailored , and Dress Hats, jj5S.OO, $7.50 S8.00.
$19.00, $12.00 and $15.00.
New? Ladies! Furnishings for Easter
Smart, ptylish Neckwear,- in all the "popular new styles,"from 10 npV
New Barret tes, back and side.'Combs plain, or fancy, from 15 up.
Dainty- new Undermuslins, pretty new, Shirtwaists and dependable
new Hosiery.
JEWEL CORSETS IN THE NEW SPRING MODELS
Your Easter Grown, to fit properly, should be worn over one of these
new Corsets; prices from $1.00 up.
X
ver initialed seal effects, imitation flow
ers and. gold mesh tassel Ideas. Large
headed hat pins are the rage in tortoise
shell, coral, jet, rhlnestones and fresh
water- pearls. The hand bags are larger
than ever and should really be termed
arm bags now, as they are so large that
they are more comfortably carried under
the arm; Some of them
and almost large enough for a traveling
s. .me nags sim Deits are to match
ana to harmonize with the gown. Don't
Duy a red Dag unless you have a red
uuii. eueae.Dags in grey are very popu
lar as also- are those of champagne tints.
Seal and walrus- are the most popular
hides used, though the patent leather
has some following. Alligator also is a
strong favorite. These are trimmed with
heads, paws and claws and are- shown In
alt the fashlbnable shades. Russian calf
skin and pin seal are also extensively
snown. unen nana Dags, shaped like
the old carpet bags, are novelties of the
season that may catch on. There are
many novel shapes shown in the shops
in various leathers. One is keystone
shape, another fan shape, but it is pretty
safe In getting a good durable bag that
is to last a couple of seasons to stick
more to conventional designs. Chain
pvirses and bags in gold or silver mesh
are still very smart. The old-fashioned
portemonnaie is again in vogue and is
-shown in German silver, carved sterling
silver and gold. In toilet articles and
boudoir pieces, nickel and ebony are now
more popular than silver, the former
Initialed in copper and the latter with
silver or gold.
It is quite in accordance with the trend
of fashion that women should be daintily
perfumed these days. Essence is not
used as much as sachet. There are now
small slips of papier mache about the
size of a visiting card which are sold a
dozen in a box. They are perfumed with
flowers and are of a delicious fragrance.
They are to be put into the lining of
the coat or gown, hat, blouse and scat
tered around the bureau drawers. They
will Impart a subtle fragrance to hand
kerchiefs, neckwear, bags and veils.
Calling cards for women are nearly
equare and should be engraved In old
English or Roman block letters. Hand
kerchiefs for street use are very small,
not much larger than infants' size, while
those used with handsome toilettes ar
far larger.
m u(tg anii
arts Jlobe!
V
its- n &
It is not necessary to go to New
the latest ideas in suits, Ae
York ideas to you. All of
personally selected for- their
York - to find
bring the New
garments are
exclusive fabrics.
our
designs, colors and tkeir adaptability to thel needs
of Portland women. ; i ' -
The jacket suits are
semi-fitting, : hipl
in
lpiess - mo
man-tailored
dels, fashioned
new
the
of soleile
and other satin-finished cloths, worsteds, serges,
and panama, in mixtures, stripes, new grays and
blues, hunter and olive green, ashes of
wistaria and all the reliable plain colors.
rose.
com
Our three-piece suits, which combine the
plets trim-fitting gown witk the coat ' of like
material, are also among the popular new models
at he House .of Tone.
artfjolometo Ca-
392 Washington Street
ing nature. The color of the sash must
T1 T T r r-ww
x ne xxouse or 1
one