THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 28. 1909.
PREPARATION OF GOWNS FOR KIRMESS STIRS
PORTLAND'S FASHIONABLE FEMININTY
Society Benefit Will Bring Out Glorious Showing of Spring Raiment in Latest Shadesand Designs.
Choice Easter Cards, Novelties, Booklets
PORTLAND'S fashionable femininity
is in a double flutter of excitement i
and preparation just at the present
moment, for after Easter, that time-hon-nred
occasion for bursting from the Win
ter chrysalis into bright and glorious
Spring raiment, will come an event, this
year, which bids fair to outdo even the
initial Spring glory -of Eastertide in the
matter of brilliant display of elaborate
new gowns and hats. Not even the society
rircus, nor the annual horse show, those
most brilliant semi-public established so
ciety functions, ever caused a more uni
versal stir among the exclusive social
sots, nor Inspired a busier hum in the
shops of the best modistes, flian has the
approaching charity kirmess for the
Opon-Air Sanatorium and the "Woman's
Kxchange. Less than three weeks now
remain before the opening evening of
this unique four-night and Saturday mat
lure entertainment, and plans for the
bright plumage to be worn in the 20
boxes which have been purchased are
well under way, with modistes and high-c-Ishs
suit and gown dealers frantically
rndcavoring to get out their orders in
time.
Wlille the beautiful kirmess gowns are
matters of closely guarded secrecy, cer
tain hints and sly peeps into the work
rooms of fashionable establishments have
a i' forded interesting material for The Ore
goniitn artist's sketching pencil, and
some of the elaborate kirmess costumes
now being evolved are suggested in the
acoompanyinjf pictures.
Quite the most fascinating creation im
aginable is a certain gown In rose-color,
of the new tunic design, being completed
for a tall and stately young matron of
one. of the most exclusive sefs. This
gown is shown in sketch No. 4, and the
rose tones of the beautiful soft stuffs em
ployed in tunic and skirt run from the
most delicate, almost peach-blossom tint,
to the deepest and darkest shade of old
rose: the sleeves and guimp effect or the
upper portion of the tunic are of woven
Kohl, with bands and edgings of gold
laoe embroidery. The skirt of the tunic,
falling loosely but gracefully from the
high belt line. Is of soft silk in graduated
rosa tints, beginning with the delicate
tones at the top, and edging in a deep
old rose at its hem, with silken embroid
ery in still deeper shades. The skirt
proper of the costume is in the soft lus
trous directoire satin so popular for the
evening gowns of the mode and is also
nf graduated tints of rose, running from
the almost pink shades at the top to the
deepest rose at the hem. Bands of the
rose-pink silk cross the bosom and pass
over the shoulders, in pretty contrast to
the cloth-of-gold guimp underneath. One
of the characteristically Parisian touches
about this exquisite creation is the little
panel of plaited silk, in the new Capri
blue, placed horizontally across the bust
just above the belt of the tunic. This un
usual combination of blue and rose is one
of the new ideas adapted from the
French.
Another handsome kirmess costume is
the ch&mpagne and cream combination
of lusterless satin and lace panels
sketched In No. 6. The lace panels are
In the heaviest cream shade, with open
centers, through which flie foundation of
champagne satin is visible. A touch of
enlivening color Is added to this rich,
yet rather dull effect, by a bosom panel
of dep rose, embroidered in gold. A
knot of the rose and pendant cords and
tassels of gold carries out the idea at
the high-belt fastening In the back.
Simple, yet rich and effective. Is the
continue shown in No. 7. which is In
(apri blue with touches of lighter blue
spangled in jet. The long flowing princess-empire
is of "a novelty material, very
noft and clinging, in the blue The fin
ishing bands of the low cut neck are of
lighter blue, embroidered in black and
spangled with jt. The sleeves are of
the prevailing mode, long and close-fitting,
and of the same fine net, horizon
tally plaited, as the guiinp, with bands of
th spangled embroidery.
nef the kirmess coats to he worn Is
shown In No. R. It is In chiffon broad
cloth in champagne tone, with Ro
niHn embroidery In oM rose, and old rose
km tin sash-ties hung from the collar, fin-
wit h cord and tassels in the same
1she
J . I 'y,ILMI'''''ll"'l
deep rose. Three large gold buttons hold
the cloak in place.
Two feteJitrifr bits of kirmess millinery
ae shown in No. 1 and No. 3. The first
is of French straw in light bronze, with
hURe medallions of the straw placed at
Intervals about the crown, and a jrreat
sash of soft satin, in an exquisite shade
between cerese and pink runs under the
medallions to a monstrous bow a little
at the left of the back. A soft fringe of
little hanging balls, in the same tone as
the sash softens the line about the face.
No3is one of the new combinations of
lace and straw, with a towerinsr nltimn.
In No. 2 is shown some of the new
ideas in gloves. The lace frill about the
wrist or tne slove. and the embroidered
serpent, or other fantastic embellishment
of the Ions evening glove, are two of
me prominent new features.
TRACTION MAGNATES WOO NEW YORK
Three Powerful Companies Seek Privileges of Great Price Startling Statements About Bathing.
BY LLOYD F. LONEROAN.
NKW YORK. March 27. (Special.)
Wcro Colonel Mulberry Sellers.
Mark Twain's friend, alive today
our busy talk about millions would con
vince him that even In his palmiest days
lie was a "piker."
William A. McAdoo, the Pennsylvania
tunnel expert, started the ball rolling by
offering to find capital to build subways
at an estimated cost of $60,000,000. He In
dicated the routes he wanted and made
a profound impression upon the members
of the Public Service Commission
Then Theodore Shonts, representative
of the Kyan-Belmont traction trust, took
a hand in the game and offered to spend
J!.000.000 In extensions to the present
subway in Manhattan Borough.
Mr. fShonts made conditions, however,
lie wanted permission to lay third tracks
on the Second and Third avenue elevated
and to operate the Steinway tunnel to
Queens, which is at present involved in
litication. He also demands the repeal of
the rapid transit law, whioh. limits the
terms of a subway lease to 30 years, with
the privilege of an extension for 20 more.
Moving Sidewalks Proposed.
As if these millions were not enough,
the Transit Securities Company has en
tered the arena. It wants to build eight
subways at its own expense and equip
them with moving platforms.
"Bichty million dollars will be avail
able if you accept our plans." is the
message that has the Public Service
Commission gasping aRainst the ropes.
Moving platforms for the conveyance
of passengers were first suggested 40
years ago, but never reached a practical
demonstration until .1SS3, when they were
Tut in operation at the World's Fair in
Chicago, fh 1SW they were installed at
the Berlin Kxposltion. and again at the
'Parts Exposition of 1900. when 10.000.000
of passengers were carried. It is fig
ured that the cost of operation would
be one-eighth that of the elevated rail
road and one-thirteenth that of the sub
way. The present project is backed up by
11 V. Ripley, president of the Santa Fe:
Cornelius Vanderhilt. Mosr Taylor Pine,
Stuyvesant fish. Stephen S. Palmer, pres
ident of the New Jersey Zinc Company;
August Jieckscher. president of the Com
monwealth Heal Estate Company; Albert
It. Gallatin and John F. O'Rourk'e, pres
ident of tile O'Rourke. Kngineering & Con.
st ruction Company.
The various routes which the company
has laid out cover practically every sec
tion of the city below Forty-second. street.
Now that capitalists are beginning to
show an interest in subway construction
an offer of $100,000,000 or better may be
looked for almost any day.
Startling News Re Bathing.
The Medico-Legal Society is attracting
a lot of fame these days by the queer
character of the speeches made at their
meetings in the Waldorf-Astoria.
rr. Klmer a Lee. a lecturer, took the
ground at a recent gathering that bath
ing was carried to extremes.
"Many people realize this." he eald,
"and there is a man In the audience to
night who haa not taken a bath in 12
years."
Mrs. Sarah J. Rorer, seemingly envious
of the attention paid the previous speak
er, proclaimed:
"I have known negroes who have not
taken a bath in 60 years."
It may have -been merely a coincidence,
but at this same meeting resolutions were
adopted opposing the Bar Association's
plan for the appointment of 10 to 60 In
sanity experts for the nine judicial dis
tricts of the state. "
"The present plan has worked very
well," said one speaker, "and at the
present moment every' public insane asy
lum in the state Is crowded to the doors.
Why let down the bars?"
Several reporters who attended the
meeting expressed pleasure that the even
ing was cool, and none of Mrs. Rorer's
colored friends with long distance anti
bathing records were present.
Some Interesting Cases at Law.
Four interesting lawsuits have aroused
the Interest of laymen this week, al
though perhaps they have not sufficiently
Impressed members of the bar.
The Appellate term of the Supreme
Court wasted half an hour in deciding
that dead rats under the floor of a flat
are a sufficient excuse for a tenant to
move out and refuse to pay his rent.
This case, which was brought by a
dramatic writer, has been wandering
about the court for several months, and
it is now finally settled. Au interesting
dissenting opinion was rendered by Mac
Lean, who said in part:
"The cases on smell are against the de
fendant, unless he o back to the class
ical Illy smelling, and the opportune smell
arising front the ashes of the perfume
cast upon the burning heart and liver and
gall of the flsh out of the Tigris, which
caused the eviction of the demon, and his
flight Into the utmost parts of Egypt."
The troubles of Hamilton Lodge No.
710. Grand United Order of Oddfellows,
brought 47 negro witnesses before Justice
Lynch in the City Court. Brother James
Taylor, who was kicked down two flights
of stairs after his arms were almost torn
out of their sockets, wanted $5000 dam
ages from Brother David Brown, perma
nent secretary and official undertaker.
Brother Brown stated that Brother Tay
lor was in bad financial standing because
he owed $2.40. The Jury, unable to find
what the case was all about, rendered
this verdict:
"We find for the defendant and recom
mend him to the mercy of the court."
A middle-aged woman was in Jefferson
Market Court charged with being a shop
lifter and while awaiting arraignment
slowly chewed up and swallowed several
letters In order that her captor might
not learn her real name. When questioned
on the matter she admitted the facts to
the Judge and declined to say who she
"All right." he
id, "under these
strange circumstances I will fine you $5
for contempt."
Mrs. Effie Evans Orth, before she sailed
for Bermuda on her honeymoon trip, took
proceedings so that she would not lose
her children by the first marriage. She
authorized her aunt to act as her repre
sentative and have the custody and con
trol of the little ones. Fearing that her
former husband. Henry Knight, might
balk her plans, she addressed a letter to
the aunt, Mrs. John S. King, which reads
as follows:
"If Mr. Knight does not return Kath
ryn by Tuesday next and William by Sat
urday next, 1 request and instruct you to
procure a writ of habeas corpus or take
other legal steps to compel him to return
them to you."
Mr. Knight renued. and Aunty is now
on the legal warpath. Mrs. Orth is still
honeymooning.
AViU Try to Prove Prosperity.
The American Caramel Company, lo
cally known as the "Candy Trust," has
come to the front with evidence to
prove that har.d times are over, "and
prosperity is really here at last.
Candy , is really a "luxury . barom
eter," and when the trust came out
the other day and disclosed the sad
fact that its earnings for the year
were only $735,360,- calamity howlers
got busy, for this was a net loss of
$270,000, as compared with 1907.
Not only'did the trust lose all the
money, but the girls of the country
were out hundreds of thousands of
boxes of bon-bons, which they would
have had, had times been more pros
perous. Officials of the company say. how
ever, that business has picked up ever
since inauguration. day, which they be
lieve Is a sign that the people of the
country have more, money to spend.
It Is a fact that one heavy operator
in Wall Street, after hearing what the
"Candy Man" had to say. commenced
tobuy stocks, right and loft.
"A candy tip is the real goods." he
said, "and I am ready to play it to
the limit, especially when it verifies
what is said by dealers in diamonds,
laces, expensive furniture and other
luxuries.
"When the " people are spending
money freely It is absolute proof of
the fact that times are Improving."
Here's a Burglar-Alarm Row.
Every city has clothesline quarrels,
but New York has established a pre
cedent by a burglar-alarm row that
has divided a neighborhood.
The section around Eighth street
and Fifth Avenue is honeycombed with
burglar-catching devices,' and as most
of them got out of order, guests at the
Brevoort. Lafayette and other hotels
tiled complaints and the matter was
threshed out in court.
It developed that some of the alarms
were touched off by rats, others by
cats and a few delicate ones by cock
roaches. . .
"Sometimes they don't even wait for
a mouse," says Police Captain Henry,
of the Mercer-street station. "The
lust Start nft ViAn,, a 1. '
: i" J 7
- i.a.uct; n rains, or because
it doesn't rain. Then they ring all
night unless a burglar come along and
turns them off."
The magistrate who heard the stories
in court, adds tp his record as a diplo
mat by his conduct in court. He con
doled with the owners and also the
victims of the burglar alarms. Then
he said:
"Nobody will deny that a man has a
perfect right to protect his premises
against thieves, and nobody can deny
that residents have a right to be pro
tected against unnecessary noises. I
will dismiss this case with a waiving
all around, and I hope we will not have
any more trouble in this matter." ,
Of course nobody is satisfied, but
there Is a negative sort of pleasure in
realizing that the other fellow didn't
get the best of it. '
Two Stores; Twelve Millions.
Two new department stores which
will represent an investment of over
$12,000,000 are planned by out-of-town
corporations. Gimbel Brothers, of
Philadelphia and Milwaukee, and the
owners of a Syracuse corporation, are
the persons who are Interested.
The newcomers have concluded that
the drift of shoppers will be heaviest
between the Pennsylvania station at
Thirty-fourth street and the Long
Acre theater and hotel district and
that the Belmont tunnels from Long
Island will bring In bit crowds along
the Forty-second-street! line.
The block bounded 'by Fortieth and
Forty-first streets, Broadway and
Seventh avenue, will be occupied by
the Gimbles and other Philadelphia
merchant's. This means the passing of
the Broadway Theater, "which when
opened, was declared to be doomed to
lailure because it was "too far up town."
It is an interesting fact that the
present subway has injured the New
York department stores. The only
shops which can be reached direct by
express trains are in Brooklyn, and
they have gained much trade at the
expense of their Manhattan rivals.
They hope, however, that with the
opening of new transportation lines
that the tide of bargain-hunters will
turn.
For Housecleaning Time
Paints, Varnishes, Brushes
Wire Screen Enamel, per can . .
Stove Pipe Enamel, per can
Gold and Silver Enamel, per package
Bronzing Powders,, per package
Bronzing Liquid, per bottle . . .
Bath Tub. Enamel, per can
Colored Enamels for Iron Bed's, per,an
Floor Paints, best quality, per quart
Liquid Veneer and Furniture Polishes, bottle
ueKorato v au l ints, per package
15V
........ 15
25
. . i io
........10
25
15
50
25 r
Chinamel Paints and Varnishes, 'z pint 20, gal. S3.25
Japalae Paints and Varnishes, ia pint 15, gal. $2.50
Johnson's Prepared Floor Wax. per can . .30
Crack and Crevice Filler, per can .'. .25
Floor sets complete for remodeling old floors, includ
ing paint, varnish, graining instrument and brushes
(ask to see them), per set $2.50
Japanese Oil Stains for Mission finish, V2 pint 20, qt. 50?
Paint and Varnish Remover, per can .25
Paint Brushes ; .25 to $1.00
Varnish Brushes .' 15 to 75
ASK FOR COLOR CARDS FIRST FLOOR.
I Can Hear You
Perfectly Now
This is the expression of
many who have been deaf
and have used our hearing
appliances. The Acousticon
is the appliance illustrated
in the cut. This is only one
of the many devices we have
to aid the deaf. Send for our
illustrated booklet on "Aids
to Hearing."
To Have Finest
Roses You Must
Spray Them at
Qnce-No Delay
CANADIAN
MONEY
TAKEN
AT PAR
-- y-a -ar 1- 1
Woodlark Spray Pump.-.5()?
The best Spray Pump on the
market and exactlv suited for
spraying roses, shrubbery and
small trees. No need to ,
pay more. Our price is. OUC
ybodlark Rose
and Fruit Spray
Is without question the most
reliable spray to use. You
will have no trouble if you
use it. It is certain in its ac
tion on codling moth and all
other leaf-eating insects.
Bottle, 25c - 50c
For the Children
Rubber and Celluloid
Floating Toys
5c to 50c Each
WE DO
ARTISTIC
PICTURE
FRAMING
lay smashed lamps and vases, and tables
had been overturned. After contemplat
ing this scene of ruin the poor man
dashed down the staircase to confide his
troubles to the agents of the law, and
he was wondering how many burglars
could have broken Into his apartment,
when he learned that diligent search was
being made for a monkey which had
escaped from an adjoining house.
With an escort of several policemen
he returned to his flat to find the monkey
hiding in a corner1.
Various Stages of Hayti.
' London Chronicle.
Port au Prince, which has come Into
notoriety again through the latest civil
war, is one of those places which have
repeatedly had to change their names to
suit the changes and chances of politics.
During the 1"4 years since Hayti hecajna
finally independent of Franch she lias
been an empire, a kingdom, a republic,
an empire again, and a republic once
more.
After a yr of prjhlhlti"n in Atlanta. Ga.,
the Constitution reports that arreet bv tl'e
Atlanta poltce iecraspd SMn. rhp flns tol
locted in the Recorder s Court fell off ?34.:?ho
and the llnf vorkl out in the streets we:
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.3.i,,.,i..ii.u,,,i....,t...1nllll,l),11ai1)1M(iH , n.aiy rii-r iiiiiiiMiion 1
1 tm M7- . in
1 MOOT WOMEN
1 niifct. 1 rr-Minn, in hm
IN J S
THE
Wew American Shape
99
S3
MONKEY VISITS BACHELOR
Call a Pleasant One Tor Animal, but
Xot So for the Man.
PARIS. March 27. Special.) "He must
be preparing for removal," reflected the
neighbors of a well-to-do old bachelor
when they heard sounds as of men
stumping about dragging chairs and
tables, and now and then the noise of
falling china. The Tacket had continued
for a while in this particular fiat when
its entrance door was heard to open and
presently certain loud and emphatic ex
clamations indicative of intense disgust
resounded.
The old bachelor had returned to his
home to find everything in the wildest
disorder. Curtains had been torn down
and strewn on the floor, upon which also
CAN WEAR
Dir.ectoirc Gowns
with
Grace and Comfort
The Nemo "New American Shape"
has been adopted by London, Paris
and Berlin, and its influence is already
shown in recent changes in "Paris
modes and the statement that
"In 1909 the waist-line will resume
its normal position. "
The Nemo "New American Shape"
is simply this:
Extreme Directoire slenderness with
the tapering waist retained.
This effect can be produced only by
the new Nemos for 1909. The long,
barrel-like corsets which Paris, has
made and America has copied, can crush
your figure, if you pull hard enough;
but it's misery to wear them, and they
won't let you sit down.
Nemo Corsets for 1909 give you abso
lute comfort and the ultra-fashionable
figure.
The illustration shows one of the new
Self -Reducing; Corsets No. 405, at
U 5j4.oo. Its long skirt produces extreme
4 reduction of back, hips and upper
fe limbs when you're standing. When
fcl you sit down, the pressure is released,
Hi and you are as comfortable as though
pf you had no corset on.
m The new Relief Bands add greatly
to the hygienic value of this corset.
H They are extra-wide, follow the con-
Vp-yi'tv nt tVlO form orrt rritra
. j - in, nu gjic V.V.111 pit; las
comfort by firmly supporting the abdo
men from underneath.
This is only one of the Nemo Spec
ialties for 1909. Later we'll tell you
of others equally important.
SELF-REDUCING CORSETS
At $3 50 I,OT short stout fiffures-Tir-
77 T, No. 314; and No.318 (with
Flatnine-Back). For tall stout figures No
312; and No. 320 (with Flatning-Back).
At S54 00 rr taI1 Btot figures
T1- No. 405. For short stout
figures (sizes 24 to 42) No. 404. Both have
the new Nemo Relief Bands.
At &5 00 For' tall stout figures
u a T jVT r.No516 (white mercerized
brocade) and No. 517 (white French coutil).
For short stout figures No. 518 (white mer
cerized brocade).
In Good Stores Throughout the World
KOPS BROS, Mfra, New York
H
with RELIEF BANDS
SELF-REDUCING
5
.. -Him-'-" - - i
V
S