The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, March 28, 1909, SECTION FIVE, Page 4, Image 50

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    Dainty Attire for Dainty Girls
SLIMNESS of effect, and daintiness ,
of material, rule Spring and Sum
mer stylos for youngr girls. .The
correct figure for Sweet Sixteen is one of
reed wlllowyness; and if nature has
lavished more pounds than fashion cares
for. careful .corset ; bodies and. laced
rtays, loose lines and hif?h belts must con
ceal the objectionable proportions.
The smart school girl has no rlpht to
hips or prominent bust lines any more
than her elders. I,ike them, she must be
in silhouette a well-bred knife blade, a
charmlnR stem which can bloom widely
only at the head. In fact, with all the
rest . of the modish, lines falling so
f trHightly and slimly, the heavily
trimmed mushroom hats now worn give
a cood many of us the look of having
heads quite out of proportion to the rest
of the body.
With th fine wash materials which
compose the simpler of the girl frocks,
this slimness is especially gracious, giv
ing that look of divine Innocence which
is so delightful to girl garments. But
it Is tlie fashion everywhere to look
saintly, ingenue, forever younger than
one's years, rather than older.
In figures ABC and D are some smart
new girlish effects suitable for various
materials
Fig. A, which represents one of -the
many new princess models, is pre-eminently
the most useful frock In the
gathering, being suitable for- both
school and smarter use. While simple,
the lines of this gown are most elegant,
so, though it may be realized In the
stoutest' gingham or linen. It is also avail
able for a pale handsome cloth, which
might also show handsome braids and
rich buttons. In fact. It can be made
from any material stout enough to al
low so severe a style, and for this rea
son, perhaps, the most solid textures that
the coming seasons offers had better be
chosen for It. ,
The model employed for the illustra
tion was in pale buff linen trimmed at
the edges, where the buttons show, with
a tiny piping of white linen. The but
tons were of white pearl and the little
chemisette employed with' the gown f
machine-embroidered lawn. The model
allows either a back or side fastening
but since the straight blouse back Is so
pretty I would advise the side-front for
fastening.
Kor tho chilly weather we are still
ltkejy to have, as well for mountain or
watering place use later, such a dress.
In a practicable, smooth-finished wool,
would he invaluable. A flower or rib
; bon-trhmned hat would go with cloth
linen or duck materials, but for outing
uses a plain felt hat, such as is sup
plied for camping and lOuropean travel
ing, would be entirely suitable.
A very feminine Indoor dress is shown
In yg. B. Though made of embroidered
rtwiss with Valenciennes insertions, veil
1 liK. a thin silk, and tho simplest muslin
indeed any variety of delicate lingerie
, textures would suit the model equally
.well. This chnrmlng little" toilette is one
! of the season's nymphs. If one may use
:1he word Tor a ' mere dress, the tight
sleeves, tucked wu lot-line and narrow
skirt emphasising slimness to the last
'degree. It would be especially graceful
It the -airiest materials, such as Swiss,
organdy, point d esprit, French miielin',
etc., and in such cases, since the model
! outlines a low effect Tor the neck and
; display short sleeves. 1h guimpe could
be. .left off for little gala evening or-
asinns. But even in theso fragile tex
tures, with the. addition of the long
sleeved guimpe and an ali:y Mower or
rlhhnn-trlmnii'd hat. 1t 1m quite correct
fir outdoor Summer use.
I.el me sugcest a dimity costume for
morning hotel wear in this sweetly
youthful design.
To tiegin with, choose a French dini
it.v. and If the girl is fair and pale, one
with pink or rose-colored figures. Have
the patterning or the dimity as delicate
as poskIIiIo the bigger figures are not so
elegant In this lovely wash texture and
select rtallan Instead of French val-
nch niies. A still more delicate medium
fur the trimming could be point desprit
footing, which, while more durable than
the plain, is yet more fragile than the
usual m,-e. For a dark girl, pale blue,
yellow and violet are good colors, and
the dimity may show these either In
stripes or tiny figures.
Tho remaining two dresses, in the ma
terlals In whioh they are presented are
for afternoon use. But with trimmings
simplified or left off either model would
do for practicable wash frocks or simple
wool ones.
A princess gulmpc-design is displayed
In Fig. e with the fitting of the waist
accomplished with the popular tucking
nd the shoulders of the low sleeveless
bodice portion slashed to show the tucked
or embroidered chemisette which must ac
company it. For smart effects the model
t sn be made In Henrietta cloth, a youth
ful silk, wool or cotton voile, or in any
of tlm exquisite tissues and needle worked
muslins so profusely displayed by the
shop. Where a fragile material Is used
ribbon would naturally take the place
of velvet, though it is quite the French
fad to combine a touch of velvet with
the mwt web-like tissues. A young
Kill s gown of flowered muslin, shaded
roses with dep bluish shadows on a
corn-colored background. displayed a
short sash .and bodice knots of scarlet and
blue velvet.
A fashionable effect in broadcloth niav
le suggested by the last figure. L. The
low Mraiw, with its short shaves and
rovers, give a number of suggestions for
rich lace and embroideries, in place of
tile plaid trimming shown. Again, plain
or figured silk, the color of the gown,
could bo used for these bodice decora
tions and for the skirt band, while the
gown material, plainly stitched, would
prove not only an inexpensive garniture,
but one eminently stylish.
3o replete with suggestion, in fact, have
styles become that there is rarelv a
smart one which may not be copied in
any. everyday material, all cuts leaning
toward smartneoa of line rather than
elaborate trimmings and permitting many
chances. The actual restriction is with
the d render of the Kmpire modes, and
to copy these in poor or coarse mate
rial Is to forswear taite entirely. A
look' of poverty almost vulgarity is the
o.ily .result, and since Hmpire costumes
suggest tine carriages besides tlie poorer
of fashion's- daughters should not at
tempt them for stieet wear. With a house
gown the thing Is different, for there
a fatrlr Inexpensive texture. If sultablv
delicate, can. wltb taste and labor, be
turned Into the loveliest short-walsted
costume.
To conclude 'the subject of the gowns
shown up;n this page, with B and C all
fragile texture would require silk or lawn
undersliiw fitting the figure as carefully
at d- the costumes.' The guimpes re
quired with them may be bought ready
made If the sewer does not care to at
tempt them, for every shop of any important-
in alive to the demand for these
dainty accessories, and shows them in
II degrees or elegance and simplicity.
Some of th prettiest of the guimpes and
guiuipe-bodiees hit tn plain tucked net
or mull. The entire bodice 1 more ex
pensive than the pieces which come no
further than the bust or a little lower
and are considered by many as more
comfortable to wear. The short guimpes
run from J1.50 up; but -the cheapest of
FJG.D A FASHIONABLE EFFECT
Wisdom of Good Reading
6( H'" sobbed a girl to whom t had such beautiful thoughts! Why didn't
I B lent a Dook sublime in subject somebody tell me? ' I have wasted my
and exqulsltery treated. "Oh. I life!"
have read such bad books all my life- The one which had so torn this young
such silly books. I didn't know there heart with its loveliness was a classic
were such grand thought in the world, life of Joan of Arc, or Jeanne d'Arc as
B A
Charming Indoor Toilette.
the bodices' likely to last any time will
be $8.50 or more.
All the designs shown are for girls from
16 to 20.
MARY DEAN.
IN PLAIN OR FIGURED SILK.
Fig. A Most Useful Frock of the Four.
'
the French themselves call the Great
Maid.
This is what the noble book does for
us. It is the touch of angel fingers upon i
locked doors. Tlie portal flies open, and
lo! in a lightning flash, mind, heart and
soul read the divine revelation. We know
what truth Is at last, real courage, genu
ine beauty.
Of course, the world is not called upon
to shed tears over the time wasted upon
bad books. But. as all of us are not
as sensitive to the heavenly touch as
was this seventeen-year-old reader since
we may have trained our taste so long
to indifferent style and falsehood Instead
of truth there Is danger at last of never
being, able to tell a good book when we
see It. The time spent on these silly
novels might reap valuable reward if lav
ished with the same ardor on standard
works, such as the politely educated
know; if they do not read them even
day of the year.
As one excellent educator says. It is
only the well-grounded In correct Knglish
those who have laid the foundations of
character who can afford to read a
trashy book. But the good work once
done, even "The Bride's Oath" or "The
Pirate Fleet" may be rollicked in with
out danger.
Young people, however, who have not
learned the holier messages of the print
ed page must begin with the accepted
good things. They must even think with
every volume they pick up for an after
noon's reading, that they are building up
character or pulling it down, drinking
In health or the Summer rash. They
must think, lastly, that they are making
themselves fit or unfit for polite society.
The education of a well-bred girl now
adays pays considerable attention to
proper reading, and so important is this
thought that there are persons who make
a business of suggesting authors and ti
tles to the unsophisticated in matters of
literature.
Certain books dubbed by the average
boy or girl as old-fashioned or merelv
religlous. should form the nucleus of ev
ery young person's library. Indeed, no li
brary would be complete without them,
for they and others, too numerous to
mention, are the" very foundation of Eng
lish literature. With their admirable
style, great good sense and spiritual up
lift, they are the actual eye-openers to
all good and great reading. The most
important among these are the Holy Bible,-
"The Pilgrim's Progress" and the
pias or Shakespeare.
Considered only educationally, the Bi
ble can give more "pointers" on behav
ior, beauty of deed and word than all
the other books of the world put to
gether. .
Take the first chanter of Genesis tilr.no
for ravishing suggestion, and halt with
the last lines:
"And God saw everything that He had
made and. behold. It was very good."
Who can read these beautiful and sim
ple words without seeing in the story of
the Creation food for eternal and lovelv
thought? The heavens and the earth
have been n-iado and finished for us
ror you and for me and all the host
of them.
This greatest of great books and all
the others which deal nobly with real
or supposed life, teach us how to live,
emphasize for our dull wJts the nice
points of i-onduct, instruct us in the, very
language of the stars.
Many "Lives" by well-known authors
are as interesting as fiction, if I must
put the thing that way. What ambitious
boy can read a good Life of Abraham
I-Jncoln without being thrilled with the
hope of being as hig and wonderful him
self some day? What girl ran go with
Florence. Nightingale through the Cri
mean war without realizing the splendor
of a life spent for others?
And both Lincoln and Florence Night
ingale were great Bible readers, and the
fact of being a Bible reader does not pre
clude other books. Lincoln loved that
dearest of ail boy books. "Robinson Cru
soe." and T have no doubt but that if
lie were living today he would be read
ing "Huckleberry Finn" and "Treasure
Tsiand." Stanley's "In Tarkest Africa."
Hansen's "Farthest North" and a score
of other books the right kind of a boy
calls "bully."
To buy all ' the books necessary for
education and pleasure is. of course, im
possible for any but those with ample
means.
But a ticket .to ' a public library will
open the way to the right reading and
reveal many a rare- volume. What every
boy and girl who is fond of books should
do assuming that they are not doing it
already is to Join a library and get
themselves accustomed, at least, to know
ing good literature. Tho persons em
ployed in these places give excellent ad
vice where taste Is not formed, and any
confession of ignorance will be met with
sympathy and help.
Say "I don't know what I want." if
your mind is at sea. and watch how
many good books the young librarian
will haul down for you to dip into be
fore you make the ciioice.
A little red tape is necessary for li
brary membership. First, personal ap
plication Is made for the ticket, on which
the applicant writes his or her name,
age. and whether or not a school mem
ber. The ticket is then ready for the
person who will stand for reference. Any
name in the directory will do for this,
though it must never be forgotten that
tho reference is responsible for torn or
defcveed books. With an ordinary ticket
allowed persons of sixteen and over,
three books can be taken out. one of fic
tion, one non-fiction and a magazine. The
books may be kept out two weeks except
In case of something very .new but a
magazine- of tho current month must be
returned in three days.
PRUDENCE STAND13H.
Menus for W eek
By Lillian Tingle.
Tnenday.
Cram of spinach oim.
Neapolitan beef with macaroni.
Celery au gratln.
Egg and Dot at o salad with chives,
ih-anee jellj-.
- Coffee.
Wednesday.
Vegetarian brown broth.
Baked smelt or wa trout. Potato- Hollandaiee
"Spring sauce" green).
Cheep souffle.
Raspberry tapioca with cream.
Coffee.
Cr-fam of asparagus soup.
Brown beef mow with pot at op. and peaa
canned) in biscuit rurt.
"Water cress alad. Chsr- wafers.
Little baked raisin puddings. Lemon sauce.
Coffee.
Friday.
Mulligatawny soup, maigrc.
Fish pud. ling with savory rice.
Aaparagun Uad.
Prim" tlufT.
. Coffee.
Saturday. -
Krown eoup.
Steak and kidney x!m; or.
K idney mute. Mashed potatoes.
Russian walad.
Apple custard.
Coffee. v
Sunday
Italian tomato soup.
Roast loin of mutton. Currant jelly.
Mashed potatoes. Sea Hoped onions.
Celery and cream cheese salad.
Cream sherbet. Orange cake.
Coffee.
Monday.
Ientel wiup.
Meat loaf. Tomato eauee.
Raked potatoes.
Celery and apple salad.
Baked sago rfam pudding.
Coffee.
1 1 : -J"- .fl
Necessaries for the Complexion
WHY have you "pimples." my dear
maiden? Why is your skin
"thick and dull"? Why Is It "sal
low as a lemon" or "with a blue tinge"?
I will tell you. Because, first, you
FIG. C A PLEASING PRINCESS GUIMPE MODEL.
have never taken proper care o.f your
health, and. next, because you have
never learned to wash your face prop
erly. . "
"Wash my face properly! cries some
girl who is famed for her neatness, and
deservedly so, up to a point. "Why, I
wash my face every day. Three times
six!"
Maybe so, but since your complexion
la marred by some one of the defects
which assail neglectful youth, it is
plain you have left something undone.
You do not use good soap, perhaps, and
very hot water, both of which aj-e nec
essary to clean pores properly, for all
local trduble begins with dirty pores.
You neglect the useful steam bath,
whose occasional use Is absolutely nec-'
essary to invigorate and cleanse. You
eat piles of candy instead of wholesome
food, and drink doctored sodas instead
of the right quantities of pure water.
You study too hard, neglect exercise,
are unacquainted with the life-giving
properties of fresh air.
The skin is like the stomach; it must
be fed, washed, aired and put to bed,
as it were, under restful conditions.
y Anything that disturbs the stomach
will mar the complexion; anything good
for the stomach is good for the skin of
the face, for every inch of skii on the
human body. So begin with a whole
some diet, regular exercise, baths and
the rest necessary. It is far easier to
pass mental examinations with a body
poised by the right regimen than it is
to cram the mind every moment and
stand up a bewildered and disfigured
girl on the important day.
The most noble mind is affected by a
disordered skin, and a disordered skin
is only another phrase for disordered
habits.
As to nourishing foods, one girl may
need one thing and one another, but
chicken and rice, salads, fruit and milk
are accepted beautiners the world over.
A dlily diet of sweet, juicy oranges is
superb, these acting directly upon the
liver and often doing away with the
need of laxatives. For the bowels inust
be kept free, even if it is necessary
sometimes to take a course of calomel
or castor oil. Gentler laxatives, and
ones that may be relied upon if used
when necessary, are sarsaparilla. rhu
barb, licorice and water, senna tea, or
figs and senna stewed together.
A pleasant and girlish way to take
the licorice is to buy it In stick form,
crack it up and eat a good big chunk
upon going to bed. For those who like
the toothsome root, this precaution for
regular habits will assume the aspect
of a geunlne spree. Then there will
always be a licorice bite for the hun-
grry girlsallow or pimply, too. per-
naps from the same cause who creeps
into your college bedchamber with a
plaint ot starvation. Licorice Is won
derfully filling, and you have nlw.v.
the pleasant thought that it is a form
of dissipation which does nnt hurt
Have a few lemons also on hand for
yourseir and any needy neighbor, and
when thirsty at night squeeze the Juice
of one in a glass of hot water, always
neglecting to put in sugar. Sugar and
lemon together often sour the stomach,
but plain lemon juice and hot water
are declared to give it tone. The sug
arless lemonade, in fact, is a superb
filip for skins.
Different skins need different meth
ods of dealing with them in the way of
external beautifying, but all efforts be
gin by clearing the pores daily of dirt
and oil. A steam face bath taken daily
for two weeks will do much toward
this end for. the most oiogged skin.
Fill the largest washbowl you can
get with boiling water, and. enveloping
the head with a thick bath towel, which
should go over the bowl as well, lean
over this for ten or fifteen minutes. If
the time seems long, begin with a five
minutes' steam, increasing it every day
till a half hour is reached. A table
spoonful of dry sulphur in the water
will facilitate cleansing, and. 'of course,
ail the face must be washed with soap
before beginning the steam bath. Take
the steam at night or when it- is possi
ble to remain indoors three hours after
it. The sudden shock produced by chill
airs immediately after . steaming, or
even an ordinary face-wash, is bad
these stopping the circulation and
sometimes causing serious disorders.
Finally, remember that for every
thing inactive skin. scaly skin,
freckles, moth patch, pimples and what
not a gentle massage after the bath
ing is invaluable. Every external
treatment of the skin worth anything
at all begins with soap and water and
massage.
And now a special word or two to
some of my correspondents.
"Summer is coming." writes a girl,
"and I freckle horribly. What must I
do?"
Massage, use a skin invigorant. a
freckla lotion, and If you have done
all the foregoing things leave the rest
to Providence. Freckles are rather hard
to banish, and the most efficient
bleaches, with their deadly poisons, are
too unsafe to put in girl hands or even
the hands of the average mother. How
ever, here is a freckle lotion commend
ed by careful physicians;
Lactic acid. 4 ox
Glycerine 2 oz
Rose water loz
Apply several times daily with a soft
cloth, pouring the lotion as needed Into
a saucer. This Is a cleanly precaution
to observe with all skin lotions.
If, after several applications, the skin
Is much irritated, go a night or two
without the lotion
cold creajii instead.
A good invlgorant for Inactive skins
especially those which are'merely thick
and dull, may be made from the follow
ing: White-wine vinegar ...
. .1 pint
IToney . . ,
. . . a ounces
:r lis ounces
Nutmeg t ounce
Red sandalwood (shredded) .. y. drachm
Put all together in porcelain-lined
saucepan and let the mixture simmer
for a half hour over a slow fire without
boiling. 'Strain and apply after giving
the skin a bath with warm water and
almond meal or soap. For skins easily
irritated, almond meal is often a safer
cleanser than soap.
Pimples mean so often a bad physical
condition that I am inclined to tell a
girl afflicted witii them to consult her
physician. Still, they are often the re
sult of dust-filled pores, when, after
the cleansing processes described, a
little special local treatment may be ap
plied. For the ordinary sort of pimple
w-hich usually troubles young girls,
here is a simple cure:
Bicarbonate of soda 36 grains
Oylcerine 1 drachm
Spermaceti ointment 1 ounca
Rub on tlie affected part, letting it
remain 15 minutes; then rub oft all but
a slight Aim.
"Scaly eruptions" call for Iodine of
potassium internally, and sulphur lo
tions and baths. For a "dry-skinned,
thin girl," a tablespoonf ul of olive oil
taken internally three times a day will
do wonders. Cod liver oil is also good.
KATHERIXE MORTON.
The Dutcli Rarebit.
A simple but delicious luncheon dish
appropriate for Lent is the Dutch rare
bit. Take a number of eggs, depending
on the number of persons you desire to
serve. See that they are tboroughly
bolled. but not left in the water long
enough' to turn dark. Remove the shells
and cut the meat into small dice. TTse
your chafing dish or a pan over a slow
fire. Into this place a lump of butter
and a little 'flour and allow to melt, not
brown, then add a teacup of milk, salt,
pepper and a little tabasco: When the
dressing comes to a boil pour in tlie
chopped eggs and allow to cook for a
few minutes. Serve very hot on slices of
buttered toast.
Hopeless Case,
chicaso News.
Energetic and ascetic
Say. .he's nearly dead! t
Exercises when she rises.
"When she goes to bed;
Flexing, bending, never ending-.
Must be jii. k of that,
AM this labor for our neighbor.
Just because she's fat.
Icy tubbings, Indian clubbings.
Dunihbellp. too. she an-ings.
Swedisb movement, no improvement
She can swear to. bringp.
Must be tiring, this perspiring.
Weaker than a cat
She In Ketting. still unci's fretting
Juat because she's fat.
Never quiet, has to diet.
Starves herself to death,
"vi'lth her banting. Alwavs renting.
Ttunnlng out of breath.
She will shortly be more portly
Or I'll eat my hat.
Nothing to It! I d not do It,
Even were I fat.
Mme. Yale's
Hair Tonic
FOR CHILDREN
AND ADULTS
Antiseptic and Hygienic
A Hair InvlRorator Just hat its
name Implies. . It supplies nourishnipnt.
the elements of growth, which when
absorbed by the hair, strengthens and
beaut tries it in the same wav that pap
jflorifies the . foliage of a tree. . Evn
where the fol Moles are. noomlncly dead,
if th soalp Is managed daily with Mme.
Tale's Hair Tonic a vigorous growth will
be produced. it has honestly earned its
title of "the Rreat hair grower." It
stimulates the most stunted prowth and
makes the hair magnificently healthy
and beautiful. By its use women can
provide themselves with a trailing man
tle of hair woman's natural raiment,
her birthright.
Mme. Vale' Hair Tonic is prized
equally by men and women, particularly
when the hair begins to weaken or fade.
Cures baldness, grayness, splitting of the
hair, dandruff and all diseases of the
hair, scalp and beard. One application
usually stops hair falling. A nursery
requisite ; n "mother should neglect to
un it for hr boys and girls: when the
hair Is made strong in i-htldhood it re
mains proof against disease and retains
its vigor and youthfulncss throughout
1) fv
Mme. Xa-Ie'R Hair Tonic is a colorless
fragrant, delightful hair dressing- neither
Kticky. gritty, nor greasy; makes the
hair soft, fluffy and glossy. Contains no
artificial coloring; would not soil th
whitest hair: restores original color bv
invigorating the soalp and re-establich-Ine
norma! circulation and proper dis
tribution of the live coloring matter
Bautiful hair redeems the plainest
countenance, and anyone can secure it
by "sing Mme. Tale s Hair Tonic. Now
in three Pir.cs. Our special price
$1
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.50 size 39c.
25 size 21c.
We will give you free a copv of
Mme. Yale"s 96-page book on Beauty
and Physical f ulture. If you live
out of town, write us and we will
mall you a, copy.
Lipman, Wolfe &
Co.
Owl Cut-Rate Drug Dept.
lit S