5
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND. MARCH .7, 1900
Salome Turban Is One of Sensations in New Spring
Millinery on Display in Portland's Shopwindows
Another Is Revived Type of Poke Bonnet, a Charming Creation Not at all Like the Hideous Affair That Prevailed in Youth of Present-Day Grandmothers.
V 1 JL
CHIRK among the items of interest
now on display in the local show
windows are the new Spring hats
and bonnets, and all the millinery
shops and millinery departments of the
big local stores are at their very bus
iest filling orders for the demand which
every day . of sunshine is increasing.
For those who were rather dismayed
et the news that the "poke" bonnet is
among the revived types for Spring,
the charming little affair of maroon,
and pink shown in sketch No. 2, will
Iiold consolation. The new "pokes" will
not bc of the hideous type familiar in
the old-fashioned "tin-type" picture, In
conjunction with "hoop-spirts" and oth
er extinct atrocities, in the family pho
tograph albumn; artistic blending of
color tones and modern, modish touches
In the trimming completely transforms
the "poke" shape and makes of it one
of the most charming, and unlversally
becoming. types of the new Spring
styles. The covering of the- bonnet is
of maroon mousselin. and the box
plaited ruffle which encircles the down
turned rim is of maroon moline. A pe
culiar, but most dainty and effective
detail is the combination coloring of the
wreath of chrysanthemums, two of tho
bloom at the side being of pink, and
tho two at the front being in yellow".
An immense butterfly bow, of maroon
taffeta, completely covers the back of
the bonnet, and long "streamers" of
the same material are attached to this
bow. to be tied quaintly under Mie chin.
One of the sensations in the new
millinery. Is the Salome turban, which
Is shown in No. 6. The turbin is en
tirely black, with a Jet band of a triple
Tow of Jet balls completely encircling
the shape: two large jet medallions,
placed just over the ears, have hang
ing from them a long fringe of the jet
balls, as shown in the sketch, and this
fringe effect is also carried out at the
back. The only touch of anything other
than- black is the white pompom and
aigrette on the left side, near the front.
Another type of the Salome turban is
shown in No. 5. which has a Jet fringe
all the way around the brim and a
broad band of jet all but covering the
bat itself, a small circle upon the crown
being of shirred silk. The two smart
quills at the left side are jet-dipped,
and a-glittcr with jet spangled at the'
edges.
Another jet effect Is shown in No. 4,
but In this turban the jet is in a pat
tern of ttojr spangles which show be
tween the large balls of silk braid that
form the distinctive feature of the
broad band. Three balls of the silk
braid hang just over the ear on either
side, from chains of little jet balls, and
a spray effect in fine feathers, of blend
ed blue and green shades, with jet
spangles on the tjps Is thrust in at
the left side, extending backward.
A smart turban in natural straw,
with cream and. black touches, is shown
In No. 1. The straw is of fine Tuscan
braid, in natural color, and the lace
Jabot at the front is of fine design and
a deep creamy tint. Prettily contrast
ing with this Is the jet ornament which
parts the jabot in the center, and a
sweeping drape of tucked black aatln
is thrown back over the crown, where
It terminates in a silken tassel hanging
down at the back.
That the popular Charlotte Corday
type still survives is shown in sketchv
No. 7. The hat itself is in a new and
dainty color effect attained by three
INJUSTICE OF
Graduates Have No Intention of
BT EX-OOVERXOn T. T. OEER.
LIKF. most problems. the normal
school question has two sides. Since
the state has undertaken to prevent
illiteracy among the people and Justifies
the movement on the ground that an edu
cated public is less likely to incline
toward wrong-doing and will be more
capable of sustaining itself along indus
trial and governmental lines, the matter
is in a measure placed beyond the pale
of serious discussion.
There are those, however. Who even
deny the force of this assumption and for
proof point to our prisons, which are full
of people who are abundantly able to care
for themselves in honest pursuits much
more than thousands of others who amass
comfortable fortunes, rear families which
are ornaments to the state and whose
educational opportunities were scant in
the extreme.
Admitting, however, though some peo
ple will not do this, that the "educated
criminal" is not the worst sort which af
flicts society and that the acquisition of
the fundamentals of an education has an
uplifting effect on the body of the people.
It is now the custom in all civilizc-d coun
tries to furnish the rising generation with
what is known as a common school edu
tones overlaid. The foundation tone is
of deep pink, and over that is a soft
corn color, then a shade of delicate blue
Is placed over both: the material is of
a novelty weave, very soft and dia
phanous, and the blended tones produce
a peculiarly beautiful effect. The cher
ries are in rosy red and pink tones,
and the fruit wreath Is Joined at the
left side by a velvet bow with wired
and twisted ends.
A rose-covered turban - is shown In
No. 8. the roses being of bluish pink,
upon a corn-colored ground of mousse
line, and a smart wing of blended pink
and green tones sweeps away at the
left side.
The new "spike quill" is shown In
No. 10. The "spike" type of quill Is
denned as any two parallel quill effects
which sweep away together and curl
over at the ends. The quills on this
turban are tipped with Jet and are
thrust under a large. Jet ornament at
the side of the turban. The turban it
i
OUR NORMAL SCHOOL SYSTEM
Devoting Their Lives to the Vocation
cation at public cost. Since this is a
settled principle, it is useless to discuss
it. It Is a fixed policy In our National
life anil it Is well.
Parsing on. a larger per cent of our
people have their notion that since school
teaching is a profession on the part of
those who chooso it, always with the ob
ject of gaining a livelihood, precisely as
one chooses to become a lawyer or doctor,
and for no loftier purpose whatever, it
is not a part of the obligation of the pub
lic to In any way spend money-in this
work. It is denominated ''class legisla
tion." directly furnishing the applicant
for admission into a normal school an ad
vantage over the other young person who
decides to become a physician or a
dentist.
And this is a much more difficult ob
jection to the state supporting' a normal
school to answer than the first. It was
tills view of the situation which arrayed
many members of the Legislature against
the further support of three normal
schools than may be generally supposed.
But there Js an objection to the normal
.school system aside from these, which
has not been seriously considered In ail
the attacks made, irpon It heretofore. It
is. in a few words, the fact, everyw-here
apparent, that not one In fifty of those
who attend, our normal cnools du so
self Is covered with dainty embrold
ered cloth of silver, and the silken roues
In pludh pink arc sewn upon the ei
broldered silver band all tho way
around.
An evening turban of the new ele
phant gray tone throughout Is shown
in No. f. The band is of cloth of sil
ver, embroidered In silver gray span
gles. and diagonally across this, at in
tervals, are bands of tucked chiffon in
soft gray. Kven the silken roses and
fine foliage at the left side are of the
beautiful gray tone.
The extreme of the Turkish effect in
the new millinery is shown In No. 11.
which is a Turkish turban In gray and
black, with white pompom, and a new
type of the lace hat Is shown in No. 3,
and No. 12 shows ono of the "leaders
in the straw shapes for Informal wear;
the straw Is in the natural tone, and
the bow Is of brown taffeta, having
brown quills, spangled In Jet, thrust
through it from the back.
for Which the State Equips Them.
with the Intention of entering the teach
ing profession, either for life or even for
any other term longer tlSn the very first
opportunity presents itself which will
able them to abandon it. This is a fact
which 'nobody ran deny and right here
Is the foundation for all the opposition to
the entire system as practiced In the
I nitod States.
How many teachers are there In the
Oregon public schools today, graduates
of our normals, who have been teaching
for so long as three years? or even two
years? Indeed, how many of the chartn-
j lng. sweet girl graduates would on the
1 ..... . 1 . . . I-. ... I .. . 1 .. 1 V 1 1 1
the next ten years? How niany have so
taught?
On an average the schools of Oregon
require some 800 new teachers every year,
schools which were fully supplied the
year before. What becomes of them? The
situation now is that rarely Is a man
found in the ranks of the teaching voca
tion. He can do better, as a rule, and
since It Is admlttfdly one of the most
annoying and unsatisfactory of the pro
fessions. It is only followed, usually, un
til a better opening presents Itself.
For this reason, plain to everybody,
few men so much as begin the work and
seldom a girl, except as a "nllcr" until
some or any more agreeable employment
may be found. As to young women, how- I
ever. matrimony appeals constantly
through the channels of nature's prompt- I
tngs. and it Is but expressing a, fact of !
which they may well be proud to say that
the young woman Is Indeed abnormal who ;
has not In mind the acquisition of a good
husband and a home of her own la pref- '
erence to a career in a schoolroom. Not '
to have this dominant Instinct would be '
a plain perversion of nature and Is more .
than sane people should expect.
Here lies the objection to our normal
school system. The state Rets little serv- i
tec In return for Its vast expenditures.
Here Is precisely where the leak In the
normal schools of Oregon may be found.
Few girls graduate with the purpose of
slaying with the profession of teaching .
n the schools and everybody knows of
normal graduates all over the state who
never saw the inside of a schoolroom as i
a teacher, nor ever Intended to. i
The result of this is that the public
schools gt little help from Vie normals.
The matter was not fully stated In the !
debate in the late legislature, when it '.
was shown that every graduate from the 1
normal schools cost the public 10XV a
sufficient sum to bundle them all off to !
Yale or Harvard and suodIv them with
a parchment "as is." When the fact is
recalled that but a very m:.. per cent
of the graduates ever give one hour's
work to the public schools In exchange
for the thousand dollars, it will be seen
that the actual return given the common
schools costs them many thousands of
dollars to the graduate.
Is there a remedy? Maybe. But it
doesn't lie in pursuing the present meth
ods. Uirls will marry. They should. And
educated girls In particular should choose i
husbands, or permit themselves to be
chosen by young men who have the mak
ing of good husbands and engage in
building homes the foundation of so
ciety and of our civilisation. But such
girls should keep away from our normal
schools as prospective teachers, whom the
state has tne right to suppose Intend to
give many years of service in the public
schools In return for the expenditure of
such vast sums of money.
This sort of laxity is not permitted in
Germany. Franca and many other Kuro
pcan countries. Those who enter their
normal schools really enter the govern
ment service; after graduation are de
tailed to such schools as the authorities
decide need their services ami their em
ployment is not dependent upon a lcal.
and maybe "cranky,' board of directors
or the mere whim of the teacher. She.
or he. Is transferred here and there as a
company of soldiers is the same as many
employes are in the United States service
today. It is a system, supported in a
businesslike way and no bodies of regents
or other boosters attend the sessions of
the law-making department of the coun
try to combine with road appropriations
or the schemes for creating more offices.
that larger sums c' money may be raised
to educate students for a profession
which few of them ever Intend to enter.
There are many men and women In Ore
gon who are doing valtant service In our
public schools, who have followed it con
secutively for many years, and who are
entitled to the boundless commendation
of every citizen of the state; but very
few of these ever saw the inside of a
normal school. And there are many who
have normal diplomas who are also doing
splendid work, but the overwhelming ma
jority of the graduates of our normal
schools soon become good housewives and
mothers anil the public schools know
them not, while the men who are now
employed In our common schools are so
few In number that at teachers' insti
tutes they present the embarrassing ap
pearance and distressing unimportance of
a dwarfed grain of cockle In a barrel of
A-l bluestent wheat.
In all the wide realm of the business
world, nothing can le fot;nd so at vari
ance with the promptings of common
sense as our method of turning out hun
dreds of graduated teachers every year
at enormous cost without the slightest
obligation on thilr part to comply with
tiie implied contract to devote their lives
or a Uro part thpreof to the profession
of fM iiiii? school. The young man or
wouii -i who has not fullv determined to
ii th1" I n no moral right to enter a
ir.i:' -". To do so otherwise is
. , , cutting something for noth-
nv i n.-Thf-
I rd'ng ennd'tlons.
tv. n nil over Oregon today.
l f!Vr Mtt professions, grari-
ui;'-s of tiT n"rma! schools, whose edu
cation 1 a-- os; r.c taxpayers large sums
of money. !iu h.iv? never spent a simrle
hour as t ach.-rs !n our public schools.
It Is not so ittipiirtnpt whether we have
one normal school or a iozcn. though no
doubt one wo. ltd give much better results.
but tin til -tiie stite nii'krs some condi
tional requirement that th graduate from
such institution shall devote a term of
years to the business for which vast sums
of money are expended th entire system
will continue to be the farce, as to results.
tthlch It now is.
MEALS AT 5 CENTS EACH
Miss Uiblts TciH-ltcs How a Family of
Six-Can Live on 94 Cent, a Day.
That a New York family of six can
live and keep well on an expenditure
of 94 cents' a clay for food provided scien
tific dietary principles are followed Is the
contention advanced by Mihs Winifred
Oibhs. diettition and social worker on the
staff of the Xew York Association for
Improving the Condition of the Poor in a
dietary manual, called ".nie Lessons In
the Proper Feeding of the Familv." about
to be published. The book Is to h-
brought out by the association for dis
tribution among the tenement-hnus
dwellers. "Too much money is spent on
beer and coffee and ' pickles that should
go for health giving foods." says Miss
Oibbs. "Then, too. the majority of wo
men I call on are ignorant of what is
beFt for them to buy to nourish their
families.
Miss Gihbs says that she has workerf
out her 15 2-3 cents a day per capitaNneuii
scientifically and that the nourishment
rurnished will Just replenish the strength
spent In the course of one average dav.
She would not. however, advise this mini
mum fare 'jnless It Js absolutely impos
sible for the family to ppend more on
their diet.
The food standards worked out bv the
Oovernment experts at Washington have
been used by Miss Uibbs in preparing iier
cheap fare. Following Is a typical day s
mu-oi-iare in .miss uthhs' schedule:
FREAKPA'T.
Com meal nuifi: Milk and ur'r.
Teat
TllWKR
Beef heart. Hrond p..at" Bread.
Itlce wllh sKr and cinnamon
Fried niuah. Stewed prunea. Tea and milk.
WED ON DAY OF SENTENCE
Frrncli Convicts Marry In rrlson
and Mart Ixng Terms Apart.
.
PARIS. March 6. (Special.) Vnder
rather unusual and not altogether pleas
ant circumstances a marriage has taken
place between M. Ixuls Jen Sa venae and
Mile. Marie Octavler. The bride- and
bridegroom have received a dowry from
the state. The bridegroom wa awarded.
on t lie day of his engagement, seven
years' hard labor; the bride got two
years on the same day. They met In the
passage lending from the courtroom to
the c.Ils and plighted their troth and
were married last Thursday In prison.
The Jailers passod around the hat and
boueht them their wedding rlngn. and in
presenting them to the happy pair the
Governor of the prison made the pretty
allusion to their condition that their
friends all hoped that these two llttlo
rin would be the heaviest In the chain
whfcn bound them.
THE MODERN WAY
?3 ' ! I, Una ! I
TT -TJ fvjStrftT V' I- ! (
LJ
"I
nvestigate
Our Complete Line of
Electric Cooking and
Heating Appliances
DISPLAY ROOMS
147 SEVENTH ST.
Portland Railway Light
and Power Company
An Artistic Bungalow Costing: About $2000
HV H. A. KYMANN', I-OS AXiIKUKS. CAI-
THK combinations of cobhluoncs ami
shingles for oxter tor construct Ion in
bunjralows are almost emllrM, but t'ner
I no style of bulMIng hnh Ik mor;
easily or more utterly spoiled by un
balanced proportion?!.
Tho Illustration here etvcit Is of a
lioure which has been built tunny time
and which always ha turned 01 1 a
thins f satisfying" Ivrauty and coadness.
In building the cobble work attention
elioulil bo paid to my advice of a few
weeks ago rr-rardins the dei Joints in
the atone work. cliiT mortar for laytn?
and colored mortar for deep, smoot Ii
pointing. Joints should be about t ltre
Inches deep In- all cobble and boulder
work to insure an art telle ruined effect.
The front bay window of the livintr-room
of this house opening out on the terrace
is a in oft attractive feature.
The 11 vina; -room is larpe and cozy with
its open lireplac of pressed brick ami
broad mantel. This rom liai an oak
floor and connects throuuh a wide bit
tressHl open in a; wit h t he d iniiiu-room.
which aNo has nn ok floor. Thin rm
hat hWli paneled ahiscnt with j!:ie
jdiHf.
The kit' hen is built in full cabinet
styl. ith coolmjr cii and an abun
dance of cupboards, drawers, bins. etc.
A shown in the plan, the closets be
tween the two bedrooms nr1 left with
out a division in ord;r to Rive access
between the two rooms if desired.
Tho lHMise is finished inside throughout
wit h hard wall plaster with a carpet
float finish and te to be t Snied.
The outside paintincr f tho building is
6o Years
We thoroughly believe in our remedies.
We Want you to believe in them, too.
Suppose you let your doctor decide.
jyers Cherry Pectoral
REVISED FORMULA
t .HBHrsJHmBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBS MiSBBBBBBBSsBVSiSBBSSBBBBBaBBB
Sixty years of experience with Ayer's Cherry Pec
toral make us have great confidence in it for coughs,
colds on the chest, bronchitis, hoarseness, weak
I
throats, weak lungs. Ask
his experience with it.
will certainly have every confidence in it.
We hate no secrets! We publish
the formulas of all our medicines.
J. C. AYER CO.. MsDufacttirinit Chemists, Lowell. M.
39
1
u i a
: irt "
a in:itir of imtU'liiuat tate. but th
hous from which this illustration was
mad was stained a dark red wit;, cream -colored
triniminc. Th roof as od
st i iH'd in t lio nat ura 1 color of the red
w ood sh ingles.
Tli'u is one of the many new d'ens
for moderate-!. need bouses in ""Hupca
lowcra f t t he new book of plans just
is.Mid by M . A . Ky inann. e ChamSr
of unmorce. Ios Angles, tat. i Vice
$1 postpaid I Inquiries or correspondence
rlat iiff to hunca tow build inc ddres$5
to Mr. ICy mann at t h .i hove address
will recotve prompt repli- without any
eh a rc wh a t sover.
your doctor to tell you
If satisfactory, then you
r3
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