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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 7, 1909)
' III A . . - w ; ; -. ! ' . '' 1 ' ttaJ H, t tt Lenten Fashions Reflect Spring STRICTLY speaking there are no cos tumes especially designed for Lent. It is merely the custom for women' of sood taste to modify the splendor of their toilettes at this time, the jrraver frowns, hats, wraps and accessories of Winter generally achieving this. ' But it is quite the thing for shops and makers to rut forth at this period cuts and materials which, in some instances, eeera eminently suited to the gravity of the moment. In reality, they are the first reliable precursors of Spring, the budding, as it were, of a new season, as the effecta which have appeared before this are merely Winter ones, simplified in some way or further elaborated. The majority of these appeal ' in tint, texture and model to the requirements of the Spring buyer, for once Lent is over the need for new and smart raiment is enormous. Lent Itself may suggest a choice of color, some soft brown, dusk)' gray, black or any of the shades in the. marvelously big gamut of violet. A faint ewect mauve, which hints very delicately of elegant penance, may even be chosen, the veiling or cloth costumes in this dis playing often th slight touches of black which have so long given distinction and emphasis to pale material. But all things said and done, the dress is for Spring wear for. except for carriage use, the ef fect would be too elegant for the rough weather which remains to us, and out of place besides. As to cut. some prediction to the con trary, it is plain that the Empire model is to remain. These short-waisted and gracefully falling styles are far too be coming and charming to be shelved. To a great extent, when made by good hands, the Kmpire gown suits both the plump and the lean, though it cannot be denied that in It the thin woman has the advan tage of her stouter sister. The absence fif H9ut linn a e t," 11 1 1 11 .7 f U .. r.,i.l,. fit. produce an impression of ease as well as grace. Tt seems impossible to Imagine that un der these nymph-like and harmoniously falling lines, the daughters of Fashion are as snugly corseted as ever in the stern armor which keens bust and hips in check, holds stockings taut, and produces almost a straight line from chin to toes. But such is the case, and if there are supports which are such only in name, the average woman who hopes to shine in the appar ently loose Kmpire frock must look first to the fit of her corset. The entirely new styles now shown in costumes also lend themselves greatly to these easy effects. The princess model, while lengthening the, waits, reproduce back or front a good deal of the Winter's looseness. The old loose jumper-blouse effects, with innumerable improvements, are also seen, these simple designs lending themselves, always, to both elegant and simple materials. With such generalities to show the trend of present styles, we may now come to the week's models for more specific gossip on costumes. Figure A displays a round-skirt model for walking and semi-smart service. This sensible and neat gown is an entirely new conception, and it presents admirable features for first Spring wear. It is suit able for calls. afternoon teas, day lectures, informal visits, etc. But while consider ing it remember that the somewhat se vere lines call for textures of sufficient weight to carry them off with good effect. "Under no circumstances shoithi a fitmov material be used, such as veiling, cash mere, muslin or thin crushable silk. There must be body enough 'to give distinction to the coat-like plastron of the front, to produce a suitable background for the velvet or braid trimming. Here a light-weight Spring cloth, in a soft pale brown, is employed, with trim mings of velvet in deeper shade. .Black soutache braid or bias taffeta would pro vide garniture's as effective, in which cas the buttons should he of the silk embroid ery sort or else jn the form of molds cov ered with the taffeta. For a slim figure of any ace. up to the 011 usually designated as "middle-age." this model Is quite suitable. A schoolgirl of 18. a girlish teacher, or young business woman would be inclined to choose it for her best frock, for somehow business dulls the taste for gay raiment, even wnen means permit its indulgence. A heavy welsht of linen, duck, pique, serge or brll. llantine are all fitting materials for the same cut. Figure B presents a toilette of extreme elegance, one which no woman of taste would wear on other than a very smart occasion. Crepe de chine, veiling, silk, French cashmere this Is finer than the usual thing are some of the required tex tures, though a thin quality of delaine In a smart color might be used. The French .delaines are very charming often producing the effect of fine bunting" and permitting quite elaborate trimmings in the way of tucks between ribbon bands, embroideries and ornamental stitching.' Kvcry shop seems to have a different name for them, but ask for old-fashioned delaine and you are likely to get the right thing. ChlfTon broadcloth, in pale tan. white gray or mauve, combined with velvet lace and chiffon, as here, would create actual splendor.. The model for this dress was all In one of the tones of mm . $ 1 Fig- D Of Graceful Empire Influence. smoke-gray which have raged for some time. As to that point the one tone gown it looks as if it is still to have an eminent place. But many of the newer frocks show a return to contrasts of color on the bodice, flashes of deep blue, scarlet, rose and black giving an air of novelty and suggesting to the home dressmaker a. chance to use up bits of handsome lace, velvet, silk or embroidery. Figure C shows a new version of the blouse frock, and provides a pretty hint to the woman who is proud of her skill in FIG. C NEW VERSION OF THE BLOUSE FROCK. embroidery, for the front' of the bodice and its finishing neckband afford opportu nity for feats of needlework. Rajah silk or pongee are rewarding mediums for stilcheries of this sort, and with such tex tures the under-blouse should be of some modest all-over lace net. of tucked net, or fine embroidered lawn, or plain white silk mull. Any wash material which is suited to embroider or the plainest treatment would also effect it well. But a word to the wise. Only a young girl or youthful matron should use these juvenile blouse effects. For there is no use mincing matters: there are styles for the young and styles for those who are no longer so. Figure D depicts a costume, which, like B. partakes of Empire influences, and is nothing if not graceful. Made in this In- Etiquette; Lenteyi Behavior SINGULAR as It may seem, a little advice on the subject of Lenten behavior Is often . needed. Many of us who are not orthodox in matters of faith ignore the need of others at this solemn time. So a number of the authorities who prescribe correct rules for conduct are taking Lent into ac count. ' . This chapter in the book of . good t form begins with respect for those " Ktti-p ieiiL as a sacrcu amy. Any irreverance expressed before persons of devout heart Is a most serious breach of breeding. If we, ourselves, choose to remain outside' the church, that Is another thing, for faith is not obligatory. We are not asked to pray or fast, only to respect the beautiful altar of our neighbor. Two days in Lent are especially re spected by persons of good taste. These are Ash Wednesday, tle day upon which the fast begins, and Good Friday, that upon which it ends. For a churchwoman to be seen at any place of amusement, whatsoever, upon these days, is to proclaim herself entirely out of tune with her professions. So ciety, that vast club which stands in the minds of many for world!y friv olity alone. upholds this rule. "I should not receive any man or woman who outrages the holler solemnities of Lent." said a fashionable hostess, who numbers dukes, duchesses and more than one queen among ber friends. There is the fundamental -quality of the period. Lent is solemn, holy, to stance of rose-colored cloth, .with duchess satin and all-over lace in the same color, it shows besides velvet bands and sou tache braid in a matching tint. Any good, softly falling material would effectively realize this model, which would be emi nently suited to smart house service if pale tints and the thinner stuffs, such as cashmere, veiling or soft silks were used. Sleeves? Stocks? I have kept them for special comment, for they are details too important to be passed over with a casual word. Elegant sleeves, all those of fine mate- rlal which emerge so delightfully from the wide shoulder flare of cloth silk and other fine bodices, are: if anything, snugger than ever. But ft is vain to fancy that these tucked, puffed, shirred and ruffled skins may be fashioned from little ma terial. The plain ones may. but the elab orate effects, a great dressmaker declares, require from two yards to six of material,' according to the width of this and the fus. siness of the arm covering. "Often they take more," she declared laughingly, "for a good dressmaker scorns to stint with stuff, caring only for the ef fect produced." However, I know there are wavs to achieve them with a fairly- moderate quantity of stuff, and those ways are through a good paper pattern. MARY DEAX. the many, a time to call a halt to dissipations In pleasure, if only from respect for others. Those who hav made profession of faith should set the pace for decency. Society striking the note for con duct, then, all the world of persons w no would be considered well-bred re strain their gaieties at this time No bails are given, nor large dinners, re-nHn8-c:0r card Paitl any mag ?i l i trV Sm,art marriages are held over 1 h i Laster. and it is even con form ? " violat," of the correctest Len" i 0a"er?UnCC the eneagement till The elegance of church gowns i- tre ln subdued- though an eve ning at the opera may be enjoyed it is not.ced that women of the best taste do Whi.e" th" U"Ual paradc for vo.fn1"! f rC l be Purred to color Kr'8 " tnese o-falons, with simple flower ornaments: while dowagers n"LKL0d a8tP- l a reat wear black, and young matrons white, pale gray or mauve. Wagner and other serious composers are the Lenten favorites of the aie Invited, the box party Is at a matinee. A theater matinee may also be enjoved and any quiet appearance at an evening performance. B XHthinK " not to k" parade of worldly wealth, displav ignor ance in a matter in which the polite peo ple of the world are accomplished "h.1" ""T0"1" of '"tie distractions, reasonably and tastefully conducted are permitted, and why not? The Bible tells S kL tvCO! P,,"kol and "Hen- on th Sabbath. One must eat, drink and have communion with one's kind even during Lent. Little house parties at out-of-town resi dences, where families and ""-intimate friends may meet, are quite in order; small dinners to the dearer friends, in formal visits, and even a quiet evening of bridge are permissible. For when four or more are- gathered together in the days of bridge enthusiasm, how is it possible to deny the distraction? Lent does n.ot mean entire abstinence, but modification, attention to its well-bred if not spiritual page. It is well to look out for some specially grave errors. - If a Catholic or "high church" friend is selected a a guest for your informal dinner, don't ofTer her meat on the days of fast. Also, while projecting a little afternoon visit to some person not on the intimate list, be sure your hostess is sufficiently liberal to excuse the deflection. Since visiting is practically debarred at Lent by social usage, even a non-church woman may be affronted .by your appearance. Much excellent study may be put In during, the time lately lavished on balls, receptions, theater, opera and what not. Take, these hours, then, for improving your limited knowledge of any language you may have dipped Into. To know French or Italian grammatically, and speak It with grace and freedom, is to put another spoke in your social wheel. If you are an equistrienne, spend your matinee and opera money on more lessons and a good steed, and then go for quiet canters through park and road, giving a little thought as to how this wonderful world of trees and blue sky came to be made. Finally, remember that society always takes up good works at Lent, 'if at no other, time. Visit the poor, make one little garment for a newborn baby who will never know, perhaps, what the silver srioon is. Attend the fashionable charity bazaars which are a feature of Int, and. if you will, the dressy lectures. Kven year your most charming gowns. If you wish. N the great hotel in which they are held. Do a good deed any way you choose. Only do it. The temptation comes to apply the last word to I-enten behavior. "To know how to follow a church service correctly is almost a cachet of breeding and culture." says one writer. "How awkward one appears when defi cient In this respect, bow utterly without the little niceties which distinguish ladies and gentlemen" "Ah." you 'say. perhaps, "how ab surd!" On Uie contrary. If It Is only to appear properly in the eyes of our fel low beings. It is excellent reasoning. All the world goes to church at Knster. if It is only to hear the trlmphant music! sung so sweetly by the surpllced altar boys or adult choirs. If you are a non-church-goer, or go too seldom to rub off entirely the embarrassment of unfamiliar form?, why not prepare the way for pleasure and decorum on the day of lilies by going sometimes in I.ent? rRL'DEXCE STANDIS1I. Menus for Week BY LILIAN TINGLE. Tueadjy. Mulligatawny oup Bsked parerlbi Mashed Pntatnea Bweet Fickles Cnnnd :orn l'uddlnc Chicory Salad Apple vie 'ofTee Wednesday. Tea Chowder Baked Macaroni with Chees Onion Souffle Apple Celery and IMmento Palad Hate noil Pudding fl.mon Sauce Lale Boil Pudding Lemon Sauca Thuroday Vegetarian Fireth Mest Loaf In rrttnto Border Tomato Sauce Cshhatre and Nut Salad Batter Puffs with Oranse Marmalade. I'ofToe Friday Cream of Tomato Soup Baked Pmelt Tartare Saura Aiashrd Potato Cone. Oelery Hoot falad Prun Whip Coffee Katurdny , . Bouillon with Crcuton Raked beam Hroun J'.rcad Beet and Potato Salad . IJellled Fruits Coffee Muiatluy. Cream of Cauliflower Soup Chlrken in Caero!e SlufTed Potatoes Peach Pickle, Savory Pudding in Flamekina Orr.nge. Date and Nut Salad Ice cream Little Cherry Cake Coffee Monday Rice Roup Brown Slew with Potatoes Fireleis Cookar Stylo Cnullftower au Cratin pear Salld (Canned; Chocolate Junket ColTee Banana Croqiieue. This is a" very norlshlng dish, easily prepared at a few minutes' notice, reel and scrape ripe bananas. Cut each one in two pieces and cut oft the sharp end making them look like a croquette. Roll them In chopped nuts of anvkind either peanuts, hickory or walnuts. Lay on a leaf of lettuce and serve with a lit tle French dressing containing a great deal of olive oil. This is a splendid luncneon uisn ror me Hungry schoolboy Fig. B For the Smart Occasion. I 1 Health in WHAT is a Ienten "rest-spree?" It Is a daily W minutes of re pose In a quiet, sunny room, a little flitting to some out-of-town retreat. !f necessary, a week In a private sani tarium. In short. It is a gentle debauch of quietness, indulged In for the sake of health, to give the body and soul a chance after the wear and tear of Win ter. The "spree" is what its name im plies, drinking the cup of rest to its dregs. . A New York doctor Is responsible for FIG. A FOR WALKING tiie piquant name given to these mo ments, hours, or days of recuperation. "What the world wants mo."t at lent." he said, "is to give the body, as well as the soul, a chance to behave. Then the fountain of youth Is discovered in knowing when and how to rest, so to nine out of ten of the worn-out women and ;irls who come to me now 1 say, 'Take a resl-spree." Sometimes lliey laugh oh. yes. there are geese in this world who have no faith In simple things. But if a patient goes about it properly, a 'rest-spree' sets her up in no time. The treatment involves some side issues, of course. llet Is changed, simplified, sifted down to only the fo,'s and liquids which nourish. Regularity is luslsted upon, the hour for sleep made, earlier and longer. "Try a Test-spree" If you want to see bow quickly a run-down constitution will readjust Itself. And If you want to le really benefited In looks, during it. think of spiritual things. Meditations of this sort are a great uplift, a great beau tiller." All this sounds a good deal like the talk of a pious faddist. Hut then the doctor Is an old gentleman and dear friend. He was giving the advice gra tuitously, and moreover afforded me the opportunity to see one of his advised "rests" In full blast. With the physical of this, the usual woman will alone he Interested, but why not read a few books of travel, at least, on scenes In the Holy Ijnd while at tending to the business of the flesh? If they do no other good, they will at loat take the mind temporarily away from the cares which are a detriment 10 repose and looks. It was In a big sunny room that I saw the members of the doctor's own family taking a rest. Close to three wide southern windows, through which the beams of old Sol poured with dazzling splendor, stood three cots, h-nds to win dows, and standing In a prims row like hospital beds. L'pon these lay the de bauchees of rest, a charming society irl in her second season and two young matrons, all tired out with the Winters social round. All wore kimonos made of pure white cotton, heelless slippers of felt, and lay with their hair unbound across the pillows, and at the head of each cot stood a Japanese stool, on which were a bowl of warm milk, book or two. a flower and fruits: while over the doorway, facing the b.'ds. hung the motto which read: "Abandon gabble all ye who enter here." "Regulated moments of silence are Just as requ:slte for well-being." said the doc tor gaily, "as anything else, so while my daughters are In tills room they are forbidden to exchange a word. When the hour is over they may chatter all they wnnt. hut when the g.ing strikes for It. woe unto the on who lingers with foolish Lenten "Rest-Sprees words, iler punishment is to slay a half hour In the chamber of discipline when all the others are oft having a good time." The girl of two seasons looked at me then, with a little twinkle, as much as to say: "Punishment: You dn't know what a good time we are having with our rest-sprees:' " The doctor explained the white klmon.is and simple food. White garments, worn over the least underwear consistent with comfort, give the sun more chance for beneficial effects. Warm milk was nerve AND SEMI-SMART SERVICE. composing; the varied fruits all anybody but a day laborer needed for the mid day meal. This was taken at 1 o'clock and in b-d. the indulgence of food at this time being an extra inducement for com paratively well pcra-ons to undress and go to b(d for an hour. "At ?." continued the doctor, "all ris and make preparations for a nee, 11 shower bath, which is taken at half past two and must eontlnu- only five minutes, or for less time If the patient iirids them unpleasant. For such, a five minutes' soak in a tub of waf-r. as hot as can be borne. Is a splendid toni.-, and. funny to relate, persons who have became used to these hot soaks rarely take cold." Here was the much offered sugges tion of many physicians put into or derly practice, atnl so comfortable and blooming did ail of the women look that I came away much Impressed with the value of a systematized rest hour. Why may not all the world, not en gaged in wage-earning. take Lent, when there Is a lightening of social obligations, as the proper time to be gin the rest hour? Any time of day may be chosen for the qul.-t hour. If that during which the Fun shines W not convenient. And is it not mote possible to steal one hour daily from the grind oT life than It is to succumb at last to the week, montli or months so often necessary to put one on one's feej after too much strain. Anv room on which the sun has shone during the day. if not shining now. may be used, and if the doctor's simple regime of fruit an.l milk is disliked C.iere are other simple foods as nourishing. Cream soups, chicken, rice. Lolled fish, brown bread, toast, vegetable and fruit salads arc much exploited in the menus of sanitariums which make a specialty or rest cures. In many. too. a water diet, as It is called. Is given night and morning. This consists In drinking a quart of fresh, pure water one hour before the first meal of the day: and another before going to bed at night. But don't gasp, for the water Is not taken all at once. The four glasses which a quart contains are sipped In discreet .mouthful. each glass consuming 1 .'1 minutes of time. It is astonishing what pure water, taken in this methodical way, will do toward refreshing the system. As a water fiend, who declares she has been so cured of bitter ills, says. It seems actually to put a bubble of champagne In the veins. At many of the rest places flesh foods are used wltli gentle massage for the thin woman who wants her angles rounded out. and must have her .nerves thoroughly fed. A receipt of this kind, called at one place crcme cle beaute, was looked upon as an exccl- 99 lent unguent for the restoration of de moralized tissues and nerves. Here is the receipt: Lar.oliue Spermaceti I Cocoanut oil Oil of sweet almonds. Tincture of benzoin... Kxtract of Portugal.. oil of neroli To conclude, why may wage-earner Indulge hi . . 5 ounces . . 2 ounce . . -4 ounces . . 4 ounces . 1 drachm . . 4 ounces . . . "O drops not even til the reviving ami neautirylng "rest -spree." If only to the extent of sitting It is with closed eyes and folded bands for 15 minutes In a different chair in her office at the luncheon hour. . Ths change of chair is one celebrated hyp notist's simple suggestion toward a change of thought. Lot the chair be near an open window, and let the girl, who put on her wr:-ps and hat' to guard against cold, say as -she takes It: "Now I am going to rest rest body and soul." If shy at first, the nngcl of repose will attend her at last, for every habit pursued with regularity an.l system finally brings its reward. KATIIKRIXK I. New Offerings; Cotton Goods T11K new cotton materials appear with borders as effective as those seen in the handsome chif fons and silks. Ioite,l Swiss conies with a variety of beautiful borders, called Swiss appli que flouncing. A white ground with a pale Mue dot -md a u embroidered flounce of a large scallop in blue, with a conventionalized flower design above. A smarter effect was a white Swiss, with a black dot. which had a wail of Troy pattern of black dots repeated three limes, so as to form a broad border about the bottom of the skirt. The old-time chamhreys. so popular for children's dresses, have been dcel opfd into a number of new pastel shinies, pale grays, and greens, ami browns, all the lno.st fashionable col ors. The cliauibrcys arc furllicr beau tified with borders from nne to I'vo Inches wide, so that no trimming will be necessary in making them m. and they are perfectly adapted for (lie new stle Jumper and ktmona dresses. Pongee sateen Is something quite new. It is a thin weight sateen, sup posed to resemble pongee, and snll.il.lo for inexpensive gowns. It is very sott. has the appearance of a silk finish, anil Is displayed in dots, flowers and stripes. It will make up into smart afternoon frocks for half -grown giil.. I'oplinette is another attractixe Sum mer weight novelty. It has a smooth finish.- is light in weight and Is. nf course, a cotton development of the old-fashioned poplins, l'opl incite comes In all colors from white to a good black, which can be rccimimended for any one In mourning who has diffi culty In finding suitable light weight materials for Summer or house wear. KoiiMt Yea! i ml Ham. Purchase, two medium thick veal cut lets." rather small in circumference, tin one of them place a thick slice of ham and cover with the other cut lei .lust as you would make a sandwich. Flace, in a mas:ing pan and cook in a hot oven at first to sear the meat, then reduce the heat to moderation. Haste SVequontly. The gravy of this d!h is delicious and the flavor of the meat combination 's sure to appeal to the boys of the famliv. 1 Madame Yale's Demonstrator Here All This Week Mm Y .! Npiv Yxrk lor.-ont r tor will r -mi 1.-1 in lur- ail I his w?f k In t ho Val S 1 ion if our Tm "Jo 01 a I pa r i !ii on 1 . inn in I Ior. w hero sli will explain to tlie latll'-s 1 1 al.ut tt;j prr r:i t ins tnailr ly M mr. Y a le ,".5 tii iT . m .irii i-s so that laHa t an fin. I 11 mot) thf list .1ut v hat t V.ey tifof!. Iji.1i.-s nmy -onsult tith Mtm. Yale's M5!-istant without rliarp, ami t In- youn u la! y will a ssiT y oi. in th piOnr sr'loi-t if m f tln ri'in"!ifs n l-r-. t 1 1 or writ n for ropy of M nio. Yale's book on be a uty i m f rrr. Imr. Alf" ( omlr Ion Hlearta. for u-ansini? the r kin of li-n-is)r-. rri.-. i.ft;t "lmr. at Kllxlr uf IW-a-.ut. for pn-te-ti!K '' skin from jmbum au:t1 th fn;.pi-Miy f t!i wpatlicr It n:ak thi- skin naturally w h tt sr I ven 1 h complexion Sv II 1 iancy. Irir. . . ,S,tf lm. k alr'a Hluh of out h. for soften -ins ths 'Xprtjs:oii -It tones ih facial Tirrvrs. pliancy to th inu les an.l elasticity to the skin. ITI.e Mm. IraN Hand Abltriirr, pr.ro &3? fmr. Vale' Mullen! Secret for NnftcB I nic Hani Water. It i one of tna frreat est known toilet I tix urles, dell- ately fracrant as j. bouquet of rhol flowers. Iriro JK m - 9lme. YoJc'm loKt Xa leant Io drr. Price 2:i? lme. Ynle'a Camplf S a . Price 2a M me. Yaien 1'out lex loa Powder, l'rice ; -i3t, Lipman, Wolfe & Co. OML HT II A TK URIO DEPARTMENT
