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THE SUNDAY OREGON I AX, rORTLAXP. FEBKUAItr 28. 11MW. ' T
. : 1 !
Winter Modes in Dainty Shirtwaists Are to
Linger Over Into Springtime, Says Dame Fashion
ToTratinMtTi'w" th Sr Styles. to B Eed-Thr Will Bo Ptaity of Frilla and Frctty BwMni.. .
WHAT ar the new Spring waists
going to be tike?
This question, which has fur
miiip time been agitating tlie feminine
population of Portland, is .being answered
I'V tliC n-w anil dazzling displays in the
V inflow s of. the local outlining houses anil
department stores, ami many women of
foresight, who are clever with the needle
or in directing sa:nstressrs, are already
luisv in the sewing rooms, surrounded by
n airy litter of scraps of fine linen, siieer
muslins, soft dimities and dainty laces,
preparing their own individual wardrobes
for the approaching sunshine and balmy
fccphyrs of the Oregon Spring.
According to the displays and the tips
rf the standard fashion periodicals, the
pretty daintiness of the Winter modes are
In survive in the Spring costumes, par
ticularly in the fancy waists and bo.Uies.
which count for s. murfi in the dressy
ff.'ect of one's whole appearance. Kven
the severer styles of shirt waists, it is
aid. will he "modified by soft writsbanils.
edited with a frill, and by a pretty nich
ing or other fanciful effect at the neck.
The yokes, too. will be quite elaborate
and frilly. Despite the troublesome and
uncertain problems of the laundry, and
the renovating shop, this hit of news will
received with Joy by the maior'ty of
women, for the sheer frills and dalniy
fnssincss of the yoke, neck and wrist
fcand that have prevailed through the sea
son are universally becoming. A dainty,
frilly touch about the bosom and thrnat
sreatly enhances the beauty of the for
tunate ones, and with noticeable kindness
noftens the plainness or sallowness of the
tnore unfortunate daughters of Eve.
Some New Shirtwaists.
A few of the new Spring styles in
hlrtwaists. fancy blouse and bodice for
fternoon and, evening wear are shown
In the accompanying sketches; gleaned
J'om the advance stock of exclusive local
shop by The Oregonlans artist
One of the "leaders" among the new
Fprlng shirtwaist styles, which are per
iiapfi of first interest to most women, is
hown in No. 6. As the sketch shows,
the waist Is quite severely plain in de
rn and cut. yet this i relieved by tucked
wristbands, with frilled ediring. and by
tiH-krd collar, finished with a soft nich
ing, as well as by a double row of buttons
down the front. Pultons. In the matter
Pf shirtwaists, as well in oilier items
ef too wardrobe, are scheduled for Con
tinued popularity, and the long shoulder
line, emphasized by wide plaits near the
sleeves, as shown in this sketch, is to be
revived. ,
JIas Panels of Chiffon.
Another style of shirtwaist is shown in
sketch No. 2. which Is of blue and white
silk in fine rhecks. with panels of hori
zontally tucked chiffon in a soft cream
tone, forming the yoke. The chiffon pan
els are outlined with strips of blue satin
to match the blue in the silk pattern, and
the finish of tire long sleeves conforms
to the yoke pattern.
Two dainty bodices for wear with' the
modish high-waisted skirt of fine broad
cloth, or other soft, clinging material, are
shown in No. 2 and No. t. These styles
or bodies, worn under the coat of a two
piece suit, are charming for informal
dinners or theater parties. Both styles
Lilian Tingle Gives Recipes
in Reply to Correspondents
Tells How to Make Taney Gingerbread. Chile Con Came, Vanilla Caramels
and Other Good Things to Eat.
POKTt.AND. Feb. 1 I should be very
clad if von would print a reel' for
a kind or ta wsfer called "Fairy Gin
gerbread " It in thin and cri'p and dollcnte
v flavored with dinner, but I do not know
just how It is made. Mrs. G. A.
I hope this is the recipe you require.
Fairy gingerbread M cup butter. 1
cup light brown sugar. 4 cup milk.
1TB cups bread flour. 2 level teaspoons
powdered ginger. Dry and sift the
flour with the ginger, cream the but
ter, add the sugar gradually; then add
the milk, a little at a time, with a
spoonful or so of the flour to keep a
creamy consistency and prevent "curd
ling." Mix in the rest of the flavored
flour. Spread very thinly with a
sp.'.tula or long, broad-bladed knife,
over a baking sheet or inverted drip
ping pan. Bake in a moderate oven.
Watch carefully and turn the pan fre
quently to secure even baking. If the
mixture at the edge is cooked before
the center, you may cut off the cooked
pari In neat .squares and then finish
cooking the center. Cut all la squares
show the low. square-cut '-'Dutch" neck.
No. 3 ha a fancy front of shirred pan
els, with embroidered strips, and shows
the wide shoulder plait, which will be a
feature of the Spring styles; also a short
sleeve pattern, whioji has managed to
survive, althouch theMong sleeves will
be almost' universally w orn. No. 6 is a
simple pattern, the only elaborate touch
being in the fine embroidered scroll of
the new shade of blue, which outlines the
double front and back of the bodice and
the wristbands.
An Klaborate Bodice.
A particularly . dressy and elaborate
bodice Is shown In No. 8. Raised hand
embroidered daisies almost completely
cover the body of the bodice, and are
used for the long lines of the sleeves,
which are further emphasized by a full.
or diamonds before removing from the
pan. They should be wat'e-thin and
crisp when cold, and should literally
melt In your mouth. A little grated
lemon rind is sometimes added as well
as the ginger. I have eaten very dedi
cate little sandwiches made with these
wafers spread with exceedingly fine
chopped preserved ginger and nut
meats.
PORTLAND.- Feb. 22. Will you kindly
give nie a recipe for chile con carne with
sauce for same. 1 do enjoy your recipes,
many of which I have tried. MRS. B. A. L
Chile con carne. No. 1. Remove and
discard the seeds from 2 dry chili pep
pers. Soak the pods in water until
soft: lien scrape the pulp from the
skins into the water, discarding the
skins and saving the pulp and water.
Cut two pounds round steak into s.tnall
pieces and cook them in a little clari
fied butter fir dripping in a hot frying
pan until well browned. .Add three
or four tablespoons flour and stir until
browned, then add a crushed clove of
narrow ruffle of the very sheer material
upon which the medallions are laid in
the bodice.
A modish pattern for the embroidered
linen shirtwaist is shown in No. 4. and
a "collar and cuff set" pattern of em
broidered linen is shown in Xo. 7. While
the "collar and cuff set" is generally ac
ceded to the schoolgirl, it will be worn,
to some extent, by older women those
who are youthful enough in appearance
to find the style becoming.
A natty little neck accessory is shown
In No. 1. This is of soft, silk-lined vel
vet, and comes in all the dainty tones.
It is very effective for breaking the ex
panse of a white or cream-tinted dress
wait. with a bit of the color tone best
suited to one's complexion. This sketch
also shows one of the natty Spring tur
bans a typical selection from the late
millinery showings.
garlic, and the chill water, of which
there should be about a pint. net sim
mer slowly about two hours, or until
the meat i3 quite tender. This may
most easily be done in. the fireless
cooker. Add a squeeze of lemon juice
and salt to taste. If not hot enough
n fev,- drops of tabasco sauce may be
used. A slight flavoring of thyme is
sometimes added to the above.
Chile con carne. No. 2 Clean, singe
and cut in pieces two youngish chick
ens: or. if the tireless cooker and
plenty of time are available, an old hen
will do. Season with salt and pepper,
and saute in clarified butter or trled
out pork fat. Remove seeds and veins
from eight red peppers, cover with boil
ing water and cook until soft; mash
and rub through a sieve. Add to the
chicken with one teaspoon salt, one
tinelv chopped onion, two cloves, finely
chopped garlic and boiling water to
cover. Simmer until the chicken is
tender: remove the pieces to the serv
ing dish. Thicken the sauce with three
tablespoons butter and three table
spoons flour cooked together to 1 2-3
cups liquid.
If a milder dish is preferred, the
canned pimientos may be taken Instead
of red peppers, but this change is not
usually approved by masculine eaters.
There in a good Spanish pepper pow
der on the market which is useful in
making this dish. V have another fa
vorite recipe for chile con' carne. but I
have lent or mislaid the card on which
it is written, and do not feel sure of
reproducing it accurately from mem
ory. I will try, however, to publish it
for you In the near future.
PORTLAND. Feb. 24. Will V" ple"
ulve me a recipe for vanilla caramels. Ml.b
L. B.
Vanilla caramels Two cups granu
lated sugar, one-half cup cream, one
quarter cup molasses, one-quarter cup
butter. Cook rather slowly over the
Are until" the sugar is dissolved. Then
boil, without stirring. 15 minutes,, or
until a firm ball can be formed in cold
water. Flavor with one teaspoon va
nilla. Beat until creamy. Turn into a
buttered pan and. let the mixture be
one inch thick. AVhec firm, but not
cold, cut in small squares and wrap in
parafine paper: Personally I prefer to
substitute one-quarter pound melted
chocolate for the molasses: but the
recipe as given above comes from a
verv good candymaker.
(i.) Vanilla caramels with glu
coseMix half a can condensed milk
with one cup sweet cream or rich milk.
Add six ounces of glucose and 1M cups
granulated sugar. Cook rather slowly,
stirring constantly until a tirm ball
forms in cold water. Add one teaspoon
vanilla. Pour into a buttered pan of
such a size that the candy will be
about three-quarters of an inch thick.
When cool turn front the pan and cut
in cubes.
I find this second recipe very popular,
especially when a few sliced candied
cherries or nut meats are added to the
mixture before pouring.
PORTLAND. Feb. -24. Can you tell me
anv wav In which pasteurized cream can be
made to whip stiff? MI?S M. O.
The method of restoring the consist
ency of pasteurized cream is discussed
In the record of experiment station No.
3. United States Department of Agri
culture. A solution of lime in sugar,
called "viscogen," is recommended.
The practical uses of viscogen are as
follows: ,
(1.) To restore the consistency of
pasteurized cream.
(2.) To increase the body of separ
ator cream.
(3.) To increase the viscosity of
cream designed for whipping, so that
it may be whipped at temperatures
which usually make this impossible.
(4.) To give greater body to con
densed milk where the method of prep
aration does not Interfere with its use.
To make viscogen. dissolve five,
ounces of sugar in ten ounces of water.
To two ounces of quicklime add six
ounces cold water and let gradually
slake: then strain through a line sieve
or cloth to remove unslaked particles.
Combine the two liquids and let stand
two or three hours, shaking occasion
ally. Let stand to settle: siphon, or
pour oft the clear liquid and store for
use In small bottles, very tightly
stoppered. If left uncovered, the liquid
will absorb carbon dioxide from tha
sir and thus darken and lose strength.
A generally effective proportion is one
fourth teaspoon viscogen to three
fourths cup cream: or, more accurate
ly, one part viscogen to 150 parts
cream. Drop the viscogen into the
cream slowly, stirring constantly.
Pasteurized cream should be cooled to
a point below 60 degrees F. before
adding the viscogen. It is believed that
anv physiological effect from this vory
sinall quantity of lime would be benell
cial rather than injurious, and it cer
tainly makes the operation of whipping
much easier.
Ribbon Girdles
and Sashes
THE Spring and Summer gowns
are nearly all to be worn with
girdles or sashes. Consequently,
the shops have on display a beautiful
collection of novelty ribbons.
A new ribbon is made of a silk ma
terial called crepon, which is like a
soft finished Rajah. It comes In a
number of handsome flowered designs
and is an expensive ribbon to be used
with the fancy silk gowns.
Moire ribbon in light colors will
form the sashes for many of the more
elaborate light weight toilets. It comes
in many varieties, thus differing from
the old watered silk design. An ex
quisite pale pink sash woven with a
cream voile gown had a flight of but
terflies embroidered on a moire ground.
Many of the silk moires introduce
satin figures in dots or stripes. A
pretty design seen in a number of
shades showed a series of satin bow
knots on a background of the silk
moire.
Oriental ribbons are conspicuous to
be employed on the light cloth dresses
that introduce Oriental embroidery.
One of the simpler ribbons with the
fashionable old gold decoration was of
taffeta silk, with large dots of gold
gauze. The same kind of ribbon came
with the stripes of taffeta and gold
gauze alternating.
The sash will be more of a novelty
than the girdle on the now gowns,
but, of course, it can be used only on
dresses of a certain character. Be
careful that you tie the new ribbon
in the right way. The sash is brought
round the waist in rather wide close
folds, and tied at the back. It falls
a little more than half way down the
skirt, the two ends being of about
equal length. The bow at the waist Is
formed of two loops one over the other,
and has a good sized rosette at the top.
THERE'S NO JOKER IN IT
Amendment to Enfranchise Taxpay
inc Women Is Discussed.
SALEM. Or.. Feb. 19. (To the Editor.)
Last Monday morning the undersigned
accompanied by many pioneer friends of
ox-team transportation days, repaired to
the capitol to witness the ceremonies ar
ranged for celebrating the 50th birthday
of Oregon's statehood. As particulars of
this celebration have already been fur
nished for the edification of The Ore
gonlan's readers by its able repertorial
staff, it remains for an occasional con
tributor to present a few Items, not yet
mentioned, from the view point of the
disenfranchised, yet taxpaylng sex. whose
"third house," like Banquo's ghost, will
down at the bidding of nobody.
To be cordially and respectfully greeted
by the solons of the state who make and
execute the laws for tax-paying women,
from the view point of their aristocracy
of sex. awakens reminiscences of the
early '70s, when, with one solitary lady
champion, I ventured, with fear and
iraiviMiTiir into the august company of
! the aristocracy aforesaid, only to discover
that no need, or excuse, for fear or
trembling existed except upon one count
the still existing disfranchisement of
the mothers of men.
The exercises of the Historical day
which brought me to the capitol in this
year of our Lord of the first decade of
the 20th century, called together a goodly
crowd. Of the speeches made for us by
House dignitaries it would be invidious
for a disfranchised citizen to particular
ize when even' participant was brief
enough,' witty enough and logical and
reminiscent enough to cover himself
with glory. But I am sorry I can
not say as much for the address
of our distinguished visitor from another
Btate, who, following the precedent estab
lished by Such shining lights of both
sexes as are often impotted for our in
struction, are wont to give us, gave us a
lecture as long as the Pentateuch, copied
from our school histories which we all
know by heart. The eminent LL. D. who
so favored ue is a well-groomed, fine
looking gentleman of perhaps 50 years,
whose 'elocution is good; and his speech,
if of half the length of the familiar com
pilation he gave us, would not have emp-
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tied the House a fact of which he took
no cognizance, doubtless because his eyes
were riveted to his manuscript.
Everybody I met was making mention
of the fact that Oregon's Acting Governor
during Senator-Goveznor Chamberlain's
period of probation, and until his. succes
sor shall be chosen, is to be a woman a
fact that will, doubtless, not be overlooked
at our historical celebration when Ore
gon shaTl have reached her 60th year, and
all our women vote. "How shall we ad
dress the new Governor?'' is the question
I hear on all sides, to which women an
swer readily, "i Madam Governor, of
course!" The lady in question is unas
suming, earnest and capable, and prom
ises to bring her anomalous position as
Chief Executive over a voting constitu
ency while herself disenfranchised, a con
scientious administration-that will go fr
to "make good" tfca righteous pl-a of her
sisters for "no taxation without repre
sentation." t , ,
Meanwhile, rtle work for the enfran
chisement of tax-payinc women goes
steadily and favorably forward. I meet at
everv turn men of highest attainments
who" voluntarily assure me of their allegi
ance to our pending amendment. Many
of them are members of the House, who
point with pride to their success in
lla ighterins the bill offered through Mr
Sneaker to accommodate the one imported
woman "remonstrant." who in eager Im
itation of Mrs. Partington, is to ins to
control the ocean of progress with a mo
But I must-not. omit mention of one
class of voters I have met who claim to
see in our proposed amendment, to fx
tend the riit- of suffrage to taxpaying
citizens, regardless of sex. a joker that
w 11 as thfy imagine. ,1-pAva cry non
taxpaving man of his right to vote. There
fore for the benefit of all such sovereign
citizen- I respectfully solicit The Ore
gon ian 'to publish the full text of our pro
posed amendment. which in no way
touches the right of any man to vole bin
provides that men shall no onger t.oa
nass as thev now do, upon the right to
vote' of anv woman citizen who pays
taxes. Wo 'do not propose to interfere
with the rights of the lowliest man. But
we do expect every honorable man to vote
"ves" on the following amendment, just
as honorable men have recently voted to
do by by constitutional amendment in
Michigan: -If i- express iy ProvMM
hereby that no cHUcn Is a tax-
paver Khali hereafter lie denied Ihe
rlBht to vol on account of . says
this proposed amendment.
Many men who have voted against full
suffrage for women in former years, on
the plea of "too much voting now," vol
untarily assure me that they will work
and vote for our amendment as it now
stands. And. to the non-taxpaying men
of onddea who fancy that their own en
franchisement is in danger. I can only
add as I close this hurried letter, amid
a babel of voices: "Possess your ballots
in peace. We couldn't disfranchise you if
we would-we wouldn't if we could." Read
the constitution as it is. then read anew
our proposed amendment, with clearer
vision and you will see there is no "jok
er" therein to place you in the category
of women who, though they are "taxed
without representation" and 'governed
without consent." arc now looking to you
and all men. for the "equal protection of
the laws" which you now deny to lis.
p s A bright young lady at the. cap
itol who is not yet a taxpayer, but in
tends to be, asks me to add that no non
taxpaying man can lose his right to vote
under our proposed amendment unless he
registers" as a woman.
ABIGAIL SCOTT DC XI WAV.
NO FRENCH POET LAUREATE
Man W ho Held Place ex-Orriclo Re
signs His Job.
PARIS, Feb. 27. (Special.) On the
last day of' January. I.eon Dierx. the
prince of the poets, retired .from office
not from his office of poet, but from
that of a public official. It. is rather
amusing that Republican France should
have kept up the custom in every thing
V I
5?
but name of a poet laureate. M. I.eon
Dierx. for many year, has drawn a sal
ary which started at j::50 a year, and is
now $7-0 a year., for a purely nominal
duty, that of cataloguing the letters ex
changed between the Ministry of Public.
Instruction and a few libraries in Paris
and the provinces. The work could bo
done by a buy of 12 in half an hour a
month, but the republic likes to ha5
its poet laureate, and is willing to pay
for the privilege.
Wonh $.",1.1.000.1100 nl. yenr or If
the lot of only one ierou amoiiK million;
nod when Mary IS. l'illkney died at .s
York hotel of "scute nastrltls" a .trnns
pli;in ter (limtpno.'irori from
plan!.
Madame Yale's
Demonstrator
Here All This
Week
Mine. Tale's Xew Tork demonstra
tor will remain here all this week in
the Yale Section of our Toilet Goods
Department, main floor, where she will
explain to the ladies all about th
preparations made by Mine. Vale ao
different articles so that ladies can
find among the list Just what they
need. I.udios may consult with Mme.
Yale's assistant without charge, and
tin voting lady will assist you in the
proper selection of the remedies need
ed. Call or write for copy of Mine.
Yale's 96-page book on beauty given
free.
Mine. Vale'n C'oniplrxlon Bleach, for
cleansing tlio skin of blrl'fh1J7;
Price S1.8.I
Mine. YhIc' i:lllr of Hen ul. t, for pro
tecting the skin from sunburn and the
inclemency of the weather It makes
the skin "naturally white, gives tin
complexion brilliancy. Price 83
Mine. Vale's Dlnsh of Youlh. for aotten
ing the expression it tones the facial
nerves gives pliancy to the muscles
and elasticity to the skin.
Price R2.8.J
3lmt. Ynlc'ii Hand A hltenrr, price 83c
Mme. Ynle's 'Magical Secret for Soften
ing Hard Wnter. It is one of the
greatest known toilet luxuries, deli
cately fragrant as a bouquet of ohoh-e
flowers. Price SI. 43
Mmc. Ynle'a 'Violet Talcum Powder.
Price 23
Mine. Ynle'n Complexion Soap.
Price 23t
Mmr. Y'ale'a Complexion P o tt 4 e r .
Price -tSe
Lipman, Wolfe &
Co.
OYVL CIT KATE DKl'G DEPARTMENT
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