The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, February 21, 1909, Section Five, Page 5, Image 47

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ADVANCE HINTS IN SPRING FASHIONS INTEREST .
FAITHFUL FOLLOWERS OF EVER-CHANGING MODES
name of the "new princess." one 01
these being: shown in a beautiful creation
of Capri blue, with pipings and button
coverings of a darker tone, sketched in
No. 8.
A type of the extreme thing In "ad
vance style" street suits is shown in No.
S. Blended pin stripe patterns. It is pre
dicted, will be smart, and the irregular,
slashed type- of semi-fitted coat will pre
vail in the earlier suits.
A new idea in automobile hoods is
shown in No. 3. The hood is attached
to the motor cape or coat and does away
with the necessity of any sort of hat
while motoring.
One of the new kimono patterns is
shown In No. 7 and for those who are
anxiously awaiting the pleasure of Dame
Latest Decrees in Bonnets, Coiffure, Gowns, Shirtwaists, Tailored Suite and Other Important Accessories to Milady's Makeup
Shown in Pictures.
For All Afflicted With
' the sketches in No. 9 will offer enter
tainment.
Salesgirls Who
Steadily Rise
name is to be changed and we will have
a not very dissimilar model under the
THAT frowning Winter is all but
gone and blithesome Spring close
upon us we are reminded by the
fraying out of the satin covers of the
many buttons which, in long rows,
flecked our warm suits of heavy serge
or broadcloth, also by the daring ap
pearance, on bright afternoons and
balmy evenings, at the theater, of "ad
vance styles" in new Spring bonnets.
Already the flower-covered or foliage
emothcred turban, which is predicted as
the popular thing for early Spring, is
noted a gay bit of color, among the
more solemn tones of Winter millinery,
and the display windows In all the lead
ing stores are showing smiling waxen
ladles decked out in "advance" shirt
waists, gowns and tailored suits.
While, of course, the trend of the
Spring styles at this time Is Indicated
only by the early showings and while all
the new Ideas of fickle Dame Fashion
must go through the experimental stage
before the question of the really correct
Spring modes can be definitely settled,
feminine interest In the early displays
and the advance hints of the fashion mag
azines Is none the less keen. A few
Items from the new stock of some of the
exclusive local shops have been sketched
by The Oregonian's artist and are given
herewith.
More fanciful than ever. It Is vouch
safed, will be the ornaments and furbe
lows for the coiffure. No. 1 shows one
of the newest and smartest bands for
decking the tresses. The band Itself
Is of rlbbon-of-gold. tw-isted over a plia
ble wire, and at the left side the ribbon
ends form a fluffy pompom, through
which is stuck two long quills with
on rl nig lends, curving saucily upward
and backward. This band Is separately
sketched In No. 10. No. 2 shows a tiara
of gold beads with a large amethyst
hung from Its central point at the middle
of the forehead. Jeweled tiaras and
bands, it is given out. will be among
the "leaders" In coiffure ornaments.
In detachable yokes. neckwear and
fancy waist accessories the tendency is
aUo towards the spangled and jeweled
styles and in thi regard some of the
new showings go far beyond the limits
of what, a season or so ago. would have
been good taste. In fact, several of the
smartest Items In the displays, except
for the gradual leading up to this gaiety
of spangles and Jewels, would be quite
shockingly bizarre and sem to have no
proper place outside the stage costume.
No. shows a fancy dress yoke of
cloth-of-giilcl uiiiler shirred tulle, with a
h'javy frlngs of jot and gold spangles.
No. 6 shows a design of one of the new these two sketches, has a jeweled cen-
fischus. of cloth-of-silver, silver lace em- ter and Is of the new Capri blue tone;
broidered with jewels, and jewel stud- It Is Intended to wear with an evening
dings. The silken rose, underneath gown or fancy bodice.
While the long lines and clinging
styles of the dlrectoire and "period"
gowns are still to be in evidence in the
Spring frocks, we are Informed that the
A LOW PRICED BUNGALOW WITH AN
EXCELLENT ROOM ARRANGEMENT
- ' ThnHnrj i
, i ' yuj
-
I ro'xe.
m
BT H. A. ETMAKN. TX3S ANGEI.ES.
IN response to many inquiries we give
ttyls week a sketch and description of
a low-cost bungalow with attractive
exterior and an exceptionally good In
side arrangement, with good big rooms.
The outside construction may be either
weatherboarding or shingles, with shin
gled roof. The front shows a bay win
dow with two gables, the smaller of
which covers the porch, which extends
around the side to the dining-room. The
house from which the Illustration was
made was stained a dark green, with
cream-colored trimming, and the roof
stained In the natural color of the red
wood shingles.
The large porch is an attractive fea
ture and as the house may be built
either as jthown or reversed tthat Is, with
porch, living-room and dining-room, etc.,
on the right instead f the left side), the
house is adaptable to any location. From
a hygienic standpoint the bedrooms
should be on the side to receive the
morning sun.
. The living-room is of good size, with
oak floor and beamed ceiling. It has a
large fireplace, with pressed brick man
tel. Bookcases are built In the but
tresses oh either side of the opening to
the dining-room. This room lias also an
oak floor, high panel wainscot with plate
rail and a handsome built-in buffet.
The kitchen Is built In full cabinet
style, with cooling closet, cupboards,
closets, bins, etc. There are two large
bedrooms, with plenty of closets and a
smaller room in the rear amply large
enough to be used as a breakfast room
If not required as a bedroom.
The bathroom is conveniently located
and may be reached directly from any of
tlie principal rooms, an arrangement
which is seldom found In small houses.
The ground plan of this house la 32x
44 feet and it should be built complete at
a cost well under $3000.
This Is one of the many new designs
for moderate-priced houses in "Bunga
low Craft," the new book of plans Just
Issued by A. H. Eymann, 403 . Chamber
of Commerce. (Price II post-paid.)
Inquiries or correspondence relating to
bungalow building directed to Mr. Ey
mann at the above address will receive
detailed replies without any charge whatsoever.
OFTEN wonder," said a clever
I gray-haired woman who has risen
to the position of superintendent
In one of the department stores of New
York, to a' reporter, "if the crowds of.
busy shoppers and frivolous persons who
are only killiDg time have even the faint
est notion of the Innumerable good quail
tics which evefy efficient saleswoman
must possess.
"We have many bright, clever sales
women whose books show their wonder
ful ability In selling goods, their steady
advance from the lowest positions
through heer pluck and industry, for
notoing else pushes a sales clerk along.
Every business firm knows the value
of the woman who can sell goods, at
tract and hold customers, introduce new
things, push certain stocks, etc.. and
department stores accord rapid advance
ment to the clever saleswoman. She is
encouraged in other ways. too. Credit
accounts are extended to some, and when
the young woman really makes good in
selling expensive garments like furs, cos
tumes and evening wraps she often gets
a couple of good gowns a year as a pres
ent from the firm.
"Buyers get trips to Europe, and no
one can say. as formerly, that the work
of a saleswoman offers no chance for a
future. Certainly it should bring good
rewards, for it is a trying place, espe
cially before a young woman has ac
quired the- poise and confidence which
enable Jier to curb her temper and re
main silent In the face of rude and
sometimes ignorant shoppers.
"The saleswomen have grown to be
distinguished by well arranged hair, well
cared for, skin and pretty neckwear.
These items all help In their advance
ment and procure them places in de
sirable departments. A store is made
much more attractive by pretty, cheerful
looking girls with graceful coiffures.
They are obliged to wear black frocks
to prevent a clash of color, so to gain
a stylish appearance they dress the hair
according to the mode and indulge in a
bit of lace or a string of beads or a
chain.
"To arrange that pretty coiffure and
those little details of dress a girl must
often rise and get ready for her journey
to the store by gaslight. Sometimes it
is in a eold room and she must slight
her breakfast.
"There are certain standards as to
neatness, well brushed hair, cared for
hands and tidy clothing which exist
among the girls behind the counter that
would amaze many of the badly groomed
women who treat the girls as inferiors.
No girl could hold her place among the
others who was not minutely careful of
her appearance. There has grown up a
certain rivalry which changes a girl who
begins the work with a dull complexion
and badly dressed hair into a beauty In
a month or so. .
"Many of the saleswomen have to
spend their Sundays washing and doing
up the little lace collars and cuffs that
they must change so often during the
week. I happen to know that a few of
them in this store have curtailed- their
luncheon money in order to indulge in a
syndicated beauty treatment at the hands
of a friend who has gone into the busi
ness and who gives them a reduced rate
for scalp and skin treatment, manicur
ing, etc.. on Sunday.
"All this means self-denial and fewer
hours in bed. Then these girls must
have the more important virtues, tact,
infinite patience and courtesy and be
blind to the unpleasant remarks of hasty
shoppers. Sometimes a floor mana'ger
will have a very disagreeable way of en
forcing discipline, but that is not allowed
In this store, at all events,
"You see I take the side of the sales
woman every time naturally. I have
been through It all myself and I know
all the discipline the job is to a woman.
You must put your pride in your pocket
and hustle all the time to be a successful
saleswoman.
"In other kinds of employment, office
for Instance, a girl can loaf now and
then or put her work over, but the sales
woman's work Is there for her each day,
and If enforced absence lessens her sales
It counts against her and her neighbor's
list grows in proportion.
"The young women are all quiet and
kind to each other. They receive from
J7 to $15 a week, except in special stocks,
where they get much more sometimes.
Then there are some who are beginning
to get less until they prove their ability
to sell; but wages are much better than
they were some years ago, and. best of
all. ability and effort meet speedy recog
nition. "There are some men of the masher
type who will seek to annoy some of the
girls, but we take special precautions
to discourage anything of this sort. Most
of the young women have their own ad
mirers and some of them are engaged.
They are all girls of excellent principles
and of far better class and education
than the English ahopwoman, for in
stance. "Many of them study music and French
and a few of them cultivate their voices
evenings. A g-irl who has been a long
day behind a shop counter is too tired
at night for dancing or restaurants.
Their days are too busy and full of ex
citement and events to leave them with
much desire for late hours.
"They must keep well, for Just as
soon as a girl begins to get listless or
to look out of sorts she is required to
take a few days off to recuperate. Some
of the older saleswomen are widows or
married, but I have made a remarkable
discoverj' In regard to this.
"There is much discussion on the ques
tion as to whether business life unfits a
girl for marriage. I think of course that
a good, bright business girl who knows,
that money is not made any too easily
will always make a better wife. ,
"On the other hand, I have found In
nine cases out of 10 that a girl who
comes back after a disastrous married
life Is never worth much as a sales
woman. I can't explain It except by
saying that the old active habits are
gone and a sort of high and mighty air
takes the place of the former desire to
please. A married woman can make a
good model or a head of department, but
she has lost the knack of selling goods.
"I never realized all the qualities a
saleswoman must possess until quite
recently, when one of our old and most
successful young women who had been
married a short time five or six years
returned to us looking for employment.
She had been a model sales clerk in the
gold. Jewelry and diamond stock, and
she got $25 a week. She was sure of
steady advance and a position for life.
"She married a rather fancy sort of
swell chap and we lost sight of her for a
The agonizing itching and burning of the skin, as in
eczema; the frightful scaling, as in psoriasis; the loss of
hair and crusting of the scalp, as in scalled head; the facial
disfigurement, as in pimples and ringworm; the awful
suffering of infants and the anxiety of worn-out parents,
as in milk-crust, tetter and salt-rheum all demand a
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cura Ointment (50c.) to Heal the Skin and Cuticura Resolvent (50c), (or in the
form of Chocolate Coated Pills, 25c. per vial of 60) to Purify the Blood. Sold
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while, fancying that she had grown too
proud to come and see her old-timo
friends. Then we heard she had a cot
tage somewhere in the country and two
children, and one day when she came
In to make a purchase she had them
with her.
"She did not look very well or happy,
and was not so bright and pretty as in
her shop days, but the children were
little dears and were finely dressed, so.
we thought that like all mothers slwi-was
sacrificing herself for her little ones. It
seemed too bad. for she had always been
a bright, engaging personality, remark
able for her charm and style.
"The next thing tiiere was a scandal in
the papers and we learned that her hus
band had deserted her and run off with
another woman. She gave the children
to relatives and finally came back look
ing for work.
"Now It never occurred to us that she
would deteriorate. Her character had
been so fine and her cleverness as a
business woman so pronounced that we
made a place for her at once. It wits
pitiful to realize the change that had
taken place in her.
"One might expect her to be quiet and
a bit sad after such an experience, but
she had become morose, careless In dress,
unpleasant to those about her. with an
air of being above her employment.
She never approached her old standards,
and when spoken to she was cros.s and
tearful. We ciianged her about in differ
ent departments and finally we were
forced to let her go. She was utterly
gone as to principle, and drifted away
from her home and friends and children.
"Owing to our experience with similar
cases we never encourage the return of
the old sales clerk who has left us to get
married, for. we find her a different per
son altogether. It seems as though the
enthusiasm was gone and a bitter don't
care feeling has taken the place of effort
and life.
"Marriage improves our men clerks.
and we are always inclined to take a
married man In preference to a bachelor.
There is no doubt that it makes many
women very idle in their habits and that
they let P more in matters of dress and
appearance.
"Many of our saleswomen make very
fine marriages. I am glad to say, and be
come our charge customers a few of
them. Life in a big shop knocks the
romance out of their minds and they
seem to appreciate what a good mar
riage means to a girl, so they choose
well.
"Our girls are not chickens by any
means, you know. They are In the im
portant positions, nil over 25. and soma
of them arc 35 and over. .The younger
girls are in the notions, at bargain coun
ters and in charge of stocks that do not
aggregate so much in money in the sales;
Ivit they speedily begin to show what
they are made of and chances are given
them to rise."
QUARTER-YEAR RENT FREE
French Landlord Devises Scheme to
Keep Flats Occupied.
PARIS. Feb. 20. (Special.) An ingen
ious houseowner in Nice has found an
Infallible method of keeping his houses
let. lie owns a number of them, and
once every year, on Twelfth-day, or, as
Frenchmen call it, the Day of the Kings,
he makes three of his tenants a rig.it
regal gift. A meeting of them all Is
held and every tenant draws a lot. Three
of these lots are marked, and those who
draw the three marked papers have no
rent to pay for the first quarter in the
year. There is nothing a Frenchman
loves so much as getting something for
which he ounlit to pay. and flats In tiiesa
houses are snapped up as soon as they
fall vacant.
Ayers Pills
Ask your doctor what he things of this
formula for a liver pill. Do as he says
about using these pills. He nou;s.
Complete Formula
Ay
ers
Pills
Each Fill Represents
Jalap ..... I Grain
Ginger ..... i Grain
Aloes i Grain
Coiocynth Pulp ... 1 Grain
Fodophyllin .
Gamboge
Oil Peppermint
Oil Spearmint
tV Grain
Grain
xV drain
tt Grain
Xxeipient Sufficient quantity.
We hate no secrets! We publish
the formulas of alt our medicines.
San
J. C. AYER CO., Manufacturing Chemiits, Lowell, Masi.