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HT KVANCEI.IXE PES-OL1EU
IT is rhristirms evf. Across the dark
Judcan hills and valos resounds the
r.iiping of the midnight chimes from
tli ancient Church of the Nativity, in
Bethlehem. Within the reat edifice
numbers of pilgrrims and of natives clad
in picturesque OrientBl costumes are
kneeling prostrate before the little
gilded ciatlle containing the imuge of
the Babe which has suddenly, at the
striking of the hour, appeared hanging
above the chancel arch.
From the great organ peals out the
harmonious accompaniment to the an
them sung by the monks in the Immense
choir "Gloria in Kxeelsis." The cradle
lth the "Bambino" is lowered and re
ceived reverently by waiting priests and
borne solemnly at the head of a proces
sion descending to the little chapel where
an altar marks the site of the wondrou
birth which took place 2000 years ago.
A large gilt star In the marble pavement
recalls the advent of the shepherds to
Hethlehem, led by the guiding star, to
vtslt the Babe of whom the angels sang.
Holding flaming torches and chanting
sonorously, the priests and monks, pil
grims and visitors gather in the chapel,
on . the. stairway and around the low
arched entrance and ehantlngly worship
the Child of Bethlehem. Then the little
cradle is reverently laid onto the altar,
bedecked to receive it. Here it lies for
a week for pilgrims and visitors to come
and adore.
Bethlehem, the little town to which the
wise men came to visit the Christ Child,
is today a quaint old village, situated on
the hillside above the valley where Be
douins lead their sheep to pasture in
the "Fields of the Shepherds." As one
approaches it on the road from Jerusa
lem, it Is singularly picturesque. Its while
limestone houses, with their flat roofs,
rising onr above the other and clinging
to the hillside, mrrounded by olive
groves and vineyards, are surmounted
by the massive walls of the ancient con
vent and church which give to the town
Its wonderful interest and make it the
goal of pilgrims from all directions of
the compass.
The Church of the Nativity was built
in Ti A. D. by Queen Helena above the
grotto whicli was the stable of the inn
to which Joseph and Mary came on that
memorable night.
The basilica is perhaps the oldest mon
ument of Christian architecture In the
vorld. The shafts of the column
which support its fine architecture and
its decaying roof are each of a single
piece of marble more than two feet In
diameter' and 16 feet high. They are
surrounded by elaborately carved capi
tals On the upper parts of the columns
are faded frescoes with Greek and By-
xantine figures of Saints. The column
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were taken from the ancient temple in
Jerusalem. These and the mosaics on
the walls and roof are made of cedar
wood from Lebanon and reveal the
former splendor of the church.
On the road from Bethlehem to Jeru
salem one meets many a living illustra
tion of the flight of the holy family t3
Egypt. The mother in her blue gown,
her whiti; veil covering hfrr head and
falling gracefully over her shoulders, sits
on the strong Arabian donkey holding
her babe wrapped in swaddling clothes,
while her husband walks slowly by her
side, gukllng the animal from time .n
time.
In the mysterious life of the . Holy
Child there is the silence of 30 years un
broken excepting by the visit of the boy
Jesus to Jerusalem at the age of 12.
The Scriptures- give us but a short
glimpse of the beauty of the character
unfolding in the Boy during these years
of seclusion.
One picture is given us of filial devo
tion and of respectful submission com
bined with surpassing wisdom and at
tainment of knowledge ' which caused
him to be "in favor with tJod and man."
The episode at 12 years of age in the
temple in Jerusalem reveals the studious
and meditative inclinations of the Child
who soon became the Great Teacher of
all mankind.
Ih the quaint little village of Nazareth
ho spent those childhood days of quiet
seclusion. We can picture him on the
beautiful hills on which Naxareth is sit
uated, delighting in Nature's beauty and
meditating on the task before him.
To the fountain, now called the Vir
gin's fountain, he doubtless went daily
with his gentle mother, helping her
carry the stone pitcher to be- tilled from
the village well every morn and eve. In
the fields we can see him gathering the
firewood for the little earthen stove.
Standing at the bench with tool In hand
beside Joseph in the carpenter's shop he
learned the trade by which he was
known when he emerged from his soli
tude with the knowledge and wisdom
which could baffle rabbis, scribes and
lawyers: "Is not this the son of Jo
seph, the carpenter?" The carpenter's
shop is shown to visitors In Nazareth.
Above it is a Latin church in which a
large painting represents the child Jesus
helping Joseph, at the bench. Another
chapel nearby, in a vaulted cave, ex
hibits the traditional "Table of Christ,"
where he often had supper with hla
disciples. The table is of solid rock
standing three feet above the floor.
The most prominent building in Nai
areth is the Latin convent, rising above
the other buildings and appearing like
some grand medieval castle. Towering
above it is a Turkish. minaret, giving the
TIIE SUNDAY QREGOXIAX. PORTLAND, DECE3IBER 20, 1908.
Seenes
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THE MOttxTT" OF OXZsSEsin
town a touch of Oriental grace. E,ven
here the star and crescent glitter beside
the cross of Christ. Tall palms wave
their green branches above f the white
buildings, and stately cypresses " stand
like dark pillars, forming an effective
background. It is with ,a feeling of rev
erence that one approaches the town,
and one Ls filled with a sense of love
for these vales where his voice so often
resounded.
The convent stands on the site believed
by the Franciscans to be that of the An
nunciation. It is surrounded by high
walls. The gateway leads to a large
courtyard where pilgrims in blue serge
owns, fastened by leather girdles, pace
up and down, telling their beads. The
church Is somber and the sound of chant
ing and the fragrance of incense issues
forth at the hours of vespers and matins.
Down In the sanctum ks a marble slab
where a cross marks the spot of the an
gel's appearance to the Virgin. Suspend
ed from the roof hnngs a broken column
about the position of which miraculous
stories are told. The whole sanctum dnd
vestibule are paved in marble. The light
of many silver lamps shed a dim ra
diance over the faces of pious monks on
bended knee offering fervent paternosters
to the Virgin Mary. All around are pil
grims, some before the altar kissing the
marble floor, others returning from the
cave of Our Lady, carrying stones they
have broken off the rocks, as precious
relics. Before the altar is a painting de
picting the tradition of the site. It was
donated by the Empress of Austria.
Behind the grotto of the Annunciation
are several chambers hewn in the rock.
One of these is "Mary's kitchen." Fur
ther on is a room, the door of which ls
walled up now. The monks tell us that
it was tlLrough this door that the Virgin
passed out to the village well. Thero is
a story that the remainder of the "holy
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house" was carried by angels from Naz
areth to Loretto in Italy.v
Though Josephus wrote of Galilee as
being covered by towns, with not less
than IjOO inhabitants each, yet today
there are not more than 7000 or SOOO in
habitants In Nazareth, the greater num
ber of whom are Christians belonging to
the Greek and Latin Churches.
All around Galilee are sites connected
with the life of Christ. As one stands
today by the blue waters of the little
pear-shaped lake a strange scene presents
Itself to one's mind. A little boat is ris
ing and falling on the gray waters tossed
by white waves. Dark hills frown all
around, shutting in the narrow lake from
the rest of the world. Black clouds thun
der from above. The little company of
rowers are filled with fear. At the stern
lies the Savior peacefully sleeping. In
anguish the disciples cry out: "Master,
save us, for we perish." Thqn, in gen
tle tones of assurance are uttered these
memorablo words: "Peace, be still," and
the winds and waves at once subside.
These blue waters of Galilee are yet at
times subject to similar sudden and vio
lent tempests, when houses along the
shores' are engulfed by them. As we look
upon this little lake, thoughts of these
incidents stir our hearts and hold us
spellbound to the spot, though its natural
appearance has nothing particularly at
tractive about It. The features which
distinguish it from other lakes are its
desolateness and its rugged bare hills ris
ing abruptly from its banks to the height
of 2000 feet above its waters.
The dwellers in the quaint villages
which dot the hills tawny Arabs in flow
ing garments lend to the locality an ele
ment of the picturesque and inspire the
artist. Its ruins and it former grandeur
are what appeal to the historian. But
the life of the Master is what endears
Galilee to us above all else.
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Bethlehem saw his birth, Nazareth his
sheltered childhood. Jerusalem his works,
his suffering and his death. But by the
Sea of Galilee he was sought, loved and
followed by the multitudes who were will
ing torforego their repasts to listen to his
teaching.
Capernaum, the first place to which
Chi 1st came after his baptism, is one
of the cities which flourished and was
of great importance of old and is now
but a heap of debris anl ruins of in
terest to archaeologists. Here stood
the synagogue in which Christ
preached the sermon on the manna in
the wilderness. The remaining walls
show It to have been a rectangular
building, .readorned in the fourth cen
tury, with a ' double row of columns,
of which the broken pedestals remain.
Part of an ancient Roman road is here
to be seen, the main road from Da
mascus to Tiberius, and the ruins of
a Roman castle which crowned the hill
overlooking the town, encircled by its
graceful terraces.
From the ruins of Capernaum ane
has a wonderful view of the beautiful
plain of Gennsaret, and the whole ex
tent, of the Sea of Galilee and the
River Jordan descending from the
mountains and passing on its way to
lose itself in the Dead Sea. As one
sits on these ruins not a sound breaks
the meditation of one's thoughts. The
mute tor.trues of past, grandeur stfeak
to one In the surrounding stillness. A
Jong descending road from Nazareth
leads out through fragrant valleys, be
side rivulets and dells filled with
bright anemones, to the modern village
of Kefr Cana, a dismal Arab -village,
though surrounded by blossoming or
chards. -
The ancient Cana Is now a deserted
spot in a wild locality which forms a
good hiding place for wild boars and
Jackals.
A Greek convent and chapel, not far
off, commemorate the site of Christ's
miracle, the turning of the water into
wine. The monks show some earthen
water-pots as relics of the feast.
Naln, where , the widow's son was
raised to life, is now nothing but a
Mohammedan mud-hut village amidst
many ruins. There are many rock-cut
tombs in this locality.
From Galilee, Christ returned to Je
rusalem, no longer a child, but a man,
who could draw the multitudes to hear
him and to follow him. He walked
through its long streets and climbed
the" hillsides to the Mount of Olives
and to Bethany, and from there he
looked down on the Holy City and wept
over it.
The Jerusalem we enter today is not
the city which he looked upon. That
has vanished away long since. But
the present town stands upon the foun
dations of the old, so that the general
aspect has not materially changed. We
can easily follow our Lord in his walks
to the temple or to Olivet and Beth
any, and look upon the ruins which
speak of his deeds of love to man.
The present town has grown up on
the debris of ancient cities which pre
ceded it." Jerusalem Was built on four
hills encircled by mountain ranges,
recalling to our minds the Biblical de
scription "As the mountains round
about Jerusalem."
These hills are picturesque and
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grand. but yet the country looks
dreary and desolate compared with
that "flowing with milk and honey"
promised to Israel. Few remains are
left to tell of the beauty of which
King David loved to sing. But it has
an interest and an attraction above its
mere topography, because the Master
lived in it and loved it.
" Like all ancient cities, Jerusalem is en
closed by a wall with many gates. This
fortification Is a mere relic of the past,
for fhe gates are never closed now. Tlio
eastward one has been entirely walled
up by the Mohammedans. This is the
"solden or beautiful" gate, leading from
the temple area out on to the Mount of
Olives. It is the one through which, in
all probability, Christ passed most often
on his way to Bethany. It is interesting
to know tliiit the Prophet Rzckiel proph
esied, many centuries ago. that this Bate
would b? closed because "the Lord had
entered in by it." As one approaches
the city from the Jafla gate, the prin
cipal entrance, it appears not unlike some
modern town, for the larger Jerusalem
extending outside the walls is what first
meets the eye.
w
To obtain a true view of the old city
one niust ascend one of the hills which
surround it. Looking down from a
heht above it one lias a fine view of
the situation of ancient Jerusalem, which
was once "the joy of the whole earth."
I One is struck at once by the absence
I of bright colors in the buildings and
I roofs, most of which are of a rugged
j gray or white stone. Many of the houses
are flat roofed and others have a white
limestone dome which stands out in a
picturesque manner beside the tall white
minarets. Above a Turkish muezzin rises
a Christian Church spire wtyh a gilt cross
shining in the sunlight, near to the silver
crescent on the Mosque., Here and' there
a solitars palm tree waves its branches
In a 6tatcly manner, towering ov.lr the
house-tops. Above the gleaming city t lie
changeless blue of the Syrian sky affords
the touch of color needed to heighten the
beauty of the landscape. The deep green
olive trees on some of the hills around
form a sombre background to the whole
picture. One realizes that to the. Turk
also this is "The Holy City" "El Kuds."
and one cannot help respecting the lib
erality here depicted by an otherwise
despotic and fanatic people in granting
to both Jew and Christian the privilege
of Taising their own monuments of wor
ship in a land where daily is proclaimed
the fact that "Mohammed is the Prophet
of God." Five times a day criers ascend
the long flights of steps to the -summit
of these minarets and from thence call
out, In loud voices, "There is but one
God and Mohammed is his prophet."
The most prominent buildings in the
panorama are the Mosque of Omar and
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The
beautiful mosque stands on the site of
Solomon's Temple, where Christ taught
and healed. It is surrounded by a large
open space where Saracenlo arches,
domes and minarets proclaim it a Mo
hammedan place of worship.
The most important street in Jerusalem
is named after Lsrael's poet King David.
It runs through the town in an Irregular,
winding manner, down long stairways of
stone steps. Many archways and over
hanging houses darken the descent. On
either side are dingy shops, where the
owner squats on a raised platform with
his goods arranged on low shelves, in
easy reach of his hand, while he drinks
coffee and smokes his long nargile. The
buyers in this narrow street stand below,
and while they bargain lengthily, keep a
watchful e3e on the strings of heavily
laden camels and donkeys which brush
past quickly, knocking the lingerers on
all sides.
Christian street, the second of the
three thoroughfares, distinguished, by a
name, is strangely enough composed of
Jewish shops. It gradually leads down
to the neighborhood of the Holy Sep
ulchre, in the vicinity of which are Greek
sellers of relics, rosaries and gilded pic
tures of saints to be laid on the sacred
tomb.
The Via Dolorosa, or Street of Pain, is
supposed to be the one Christ trod on
his way to Calvary. It was divided into
four "Stations of the Cross" where serv
ices are held on Good Friday. An ancient
arch across the street is named the "Ecce
Homo," for here, tradition says, Pilate
exclaimed: "Behold the Man!" A Latin
church stands over the site below, which
a stone pavement is exhibited, which is
unmistakably part of the ancient road and
shows the marks of chariot wheels and of
the street games of the Roman soldiers.
The houses within the walls are low and
built closely together, one room forming
the home of one or two large families.
These houses often open into a courtyard
which ls common property, and contains
a well-Jthe only supply of water for the i
! city depends all the year around on the
rain water gathered from the flat roofs In
Winter. The housetops afTOrd a delightful
walk or resting place during the long,
cool, Summer evenings, many persons pre
ferring to take up their mattresses and
sleep under the stnrlit sky.
Alt business is transacted between sun
rise and sunset. Persons going out after
dark are obliged io carry lanterns, by
order of the Governor. Otherwise they are
arrested by the soldiers of the Biiltun.
The twilight is very brief and with dark
ness perfect stillness broods over the city.
All shops are burred, the streets are de
serted and ahsolute quiet reigns.
At the foot of the Mount of Olives, just
beyond the valley, which separated the
hill from t lie city, is the quiet little gar
den of Gethseinane.
The grand old olive trees alone remain
as monuments of the past. When one
stands with bowed liead under these an
cient trees In the stillness of this solitary
place and meditate n the sad events
which took place here one Is Impressed
with a now meaning ! the hymn, "'TIs
Mldnlcht and on Olive's Brow. . . ."
Outside the walls of the city and not
far from the . beautiful Damascus gate
stands a little hill. By Its very contour
against the clear sky ' it proclaims Its
name "Golgotha, the Place of a Skull."
It presents a striking appenrance, having
stratiRe. eyeless sockets, giving the mound
a perfect resemblance to a human Fkull.
A very impressive mark on the sacred
hill is the rent made in the rocks by the
jrrcat earthquake at the Crucifixion. One
huge boulder still hangs over the preci
pice 011 the hillside, apparently having
been cleft from the larger half 011 t he
hilltop. The most Important fca.turc of the hill
is a precipitous declivity in which are
three slots, evidently each an opening In
which the foot of a rmss was placed, to
facilitate the raising of It after the lwidy
had been fastened on. Here, in full view
of the city, stood the tlire" crosses, upon
which hung the two thieves and between
them the Great Teacher and Healer who
had spent his days "going about doing
good."
Change of Date for Chrltnm.
Puck.
wish that Christmas day would coini
some other time of year
In
Summer, when th' nhin
th'
swimiuin" days are here!
Christmas came In August
If
then old
Santa Claui might bring
A bathln' uit er nhln' rod, er trap r
patent swinK
TIT things a feller ues In th' woods an'
Bwlmmln' pool
I'd have 'em new an' nhiny when they let
me out of school;
But Jest because it always comei aroun'
th' same old day
1 sit th" tame old presents In th' earn old
Christmas way!
I never Bit a bat an' ball. If Christmas
only came
In Jure rd have nouh V keep th" fllr
In th' name:
Then, r mlEht Bit a pony, if Kris Kringie
came In May,
When 1 could feed him gra instead of
daddy's blr of hay!
If Christmas cme In April Santa CIaus'4
never tote
Aroun' for every little b"V a f'mry overcoat,
A cap an' hnots an' gloves -he'd bring- him
romethiiiK he could us ,
When he leaves his coat at home an' pad
dles round without his shoes!
I'm w-aitin- fer. th' Summer an' I'm lonely
fer th gprlns:
But Santa liau ls comin', an' he'll never
leave a thing
To suit me In vacation, when they let me
out of school
A dog t' ketch a grlnnle, er a bobbin
fer th' pool,
A pony an' a cart f gather cider, wood
an' frrain.
An' haul th' girls f picnics in th' grove
ut Shady Lane.
Oli. I wish that tfsnta riaus would throw
his furs an' sled away.
An' come aroun' next Christmas on a load
of Summer, hay!
His ( hristmas f.lft.
Puck.
Could T hut offer Christmas gift"
Ho paused.. nd his deep tones shook.
They always did when he saw her lift
Her eyes with that tranquil look.
"Could I but hope" he grew bold again
That your love. would be all my ow.n.
To have and to hold you. In joy and pain.
My treasure and mine alone
Grant me thla happy Christmastide
Your heart, with its precious freight.
And be forever my love, my bride"
And then as she saw him wait
"But. what are you giving ,rnc?" she sal4;
And elanR-y. at all, she was nt
"I fail to pt-rcelve any gift instead,
I think you are asking a lot!"
Coldly Practical.
Louisville Courier-Journal.
His dulcet lyre
He twanged with fire.
And warbled to the dove.
This was the lay
He did essay:
Oh. eo rim and be my love."
The maiden heard
His final word.
Then with a scornful look,
She asked tho swain
Vi hiKh disdain:
"Canst guarantee a cook?"