I
THE SUSDAY OREGOXIAK, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 20, 1903.
LONG, GRACEFUL LINES FEATURE OF STYLES
Furniture Makes Best Presents
DAINTIEST and most Interesting
anions ail Dame Fashion's subjects
is the slender, graceful, pink
cheeked, clear-eyed young: girl. Just
past the awkwardness and angles of
the early 'teens, and not yet come to
the lull development of mature woman
hood. , The slender lines of the debutante
figure lend themselves, with a distinc
tive grace attained by no other, to the
'most effective designs of the modiste,
land particularly is this true of the
ilonfr. loose, clinging styles of the
I present season. To be sure, all the
'pmart new garments for young girls
, have certain frivolous touches and-tdts
lot fluffy or frilled detail not to be
I found in the wardrobe of the more ma
ture, and some of the most charming
efffects in the dlrectoire designs are
ieeen gracing the slenderncss of debu-
tantes. ,
HOME-MADE CANDY ALWAYS
Lilian Tingle Tells Confectioners' Secrets So All May Make Dainty
BY 1.1 MAX TINGLE.
CLEVER and popular friend of
mine some years ago made a vow
that except to her mother and sis
ter, of whose needs and taste she could
be absolutely certain, she would give no
Christmas gifts except home-made candy.
"Everyone likes home-made candy."
she said, "and if they don't they can
always have the pleasure of giving it to
those who do. without any twinges of
conscience or fears that I'll think they
don't value my gift. Half the pleasure
In having candy is in passing it around;
but if I'd sent them bass and needle
books, or other weird things made out
of colored handkerchiefs and ribbons, for
which they had no real use. they would
probably feel" some hesitancy in giving
them away lest 1 might see them again.
The cluttery things cost more time and
money and are not half so satisfactory in
the end."
So with the approach of Christmas
my friend lays in a supply of sugar,
brown, maple, granulated and pow
dered; a lstge variety of dried and
crystaliiied fruit and nuts, some butter
and esss. a quantity of paraffine pa i e r,
with ribbons and boxes of all sizes and
s!mpes. Of the last some are purchased
empty at candy stores, others are the
miscellaneous hoardings of the year, no
one being allowed to dispose of any kind
of box that comes to the house until our
A few of the many and varied adap
tations of the prevailing modes for the
pretty misses still in their 'teens have
been sketched for' The Orenonian from
the stock of local shops and outfitting
establishments, and are shown in the
accompanying pictures.
No. 5 shows a girlish adaptation of
the new and modish "Empress Nippon"
coat, quite the most smart wrap of the
season. This long cloak, fitting close
ly and enveloping the figure from
throat to hem. Is almost a complete
suit in itself, and is a most satisfactory
garment for wear with short rain skirt
and shirtwaist, besides being both
smart and practical for wearing over
a filmy parry frock or dancing gown
en route to and from. The full frill or
ribbon edging the border of the little
empire vest of this coat, and also em
ployed as a finish at the cuffs, gives
a girlish note.
A particularly dainty and girlish
adaptation bf the directoire lines is
candymaker has seen it and decided on
Its future possibilities.
These odii boxes are usually decorated
and glorified with the aid of crepe or
watercolor paper, a paint box, a saucer
of gilt paint, some Christmas seals,
tags, cards and ribbons. But you may
be more interested in wliat she puts in
them than in the boxes themselves. She
lias an extensive candy repertoire and
an admirable tact in selecting just the
right variety for each of her friends.
Some weeks before it is needed she
begins utilizing her spare moments in
making "fondant." which will be the
foundation of many of her sweets, and
which l-.ither Improves with keeping.
Most habitual enndymakers know how
to make fondant, but lor the occasional
candymaker who has perhaps tried and
failed, here is the method in detail:
For a beginner it is best to start with
one pound (two cups of sugar and half
a cup of water. Let this dissolve in a
smooth granite pan and bring it rather
slowly to the boiling point. You may
stir it until dissolved, but as soon as
boiling begins odd a quarter teaspoonful
of cream of tartar, put away your spoon,
wipe cautiously with a wet cloth round
the sides of the pan to remove any sugar
crystals, cover and let boil about five
minutes. The syrup lias to be boiled to
the "soft ball" or "long hair" stage.
A sugar theimometer enables you to do
the cooking with absolute accuracy. "38
degrees being th correct temperature.
shown in the party gown. No. 4. This
smart little frock Is fashioned of the
soft, clinging directoire satin, in a deli
cate corn color not quite so pro
nounced as the "blondine" shade and
the trimmings of silken fringe and
embroidery are in robin's egg blue;
this note of dainty blue being worked
out charmingly through the princess
panel down the front of the frock, and
in the high directoire girdle with its
sash knots of soft blue velvet and deli
cately contrasting linings of the corn
color. The shirred leeve-p!eco ter
minates at the elbow with an embroid
ered band of two tints, and a triple
flounce of fine, delicate lace falls well
to the wrist. A triple frill of lace
also softens the low-cut neck at front
and back.
A smart little afternoon frock is
shown in No. 3, the material being of
novelty goods in a new check, and has
the slashed opening down the front
which has .been a smart feature of
ACCEPTABLE
Sweets for Yulefide Season.
Failing a thermometer, you can Judge
by any one of the following tests: 1)
Dip a fork into the syrup and let a few
drops fall (but not back into the syrup);
if a long hair-like thread remains the
sugar is ready. .(2) Have a wire skewer
standing in a dish of cold water. Dip
tills into the syrup; replace in the water
and then push off the sugar with thumb
and forefinger. If It can be gathered
into a soft ball it is ready for pouring.
(3) This takes courage and quickness,
but is satisfactory. Dip your finger in
cold water, then in the boHing syrup,
then back in cold water, and sec if you
can gather the clinging sugar Into a
soft ball. The finger will not be scalded
provided you do not dip it beyond the
wet part and are quick in your move
ments. It is perhaps easier to judge
the consistency of the syrup on your fin
ger than on a skewer. A clean linger is.
of course, obligatory.
The moment the right temperature
is reached pour the syrup upon a large
platter or marble or slate slab, slightly
oiled with the best salad oil. Let stand
until you can presB the surface film with
out making your finger sticky; then be
gin working the candy back and forth
with a wooden spatula until you, have
a smooth. ' creamy mass. For a small
quantity a stout wire cake-beater is a.
very convenient implement. As the
candy cools and thickens begin knead
Uig with the hands until the whole is a
smooth, putty-like mass. Then press ll
this type of the season's costumes, the
slash and buttons reaching from yoke
to hem. The upper part of the one
piece over-frock isr somewhat like the
jumper" cut. with a short sleevelet,
and the underwaist. or glinp has the
swathed style of sleeve to the elbow.
with a tight-fitting undersleeve, hori
zontally tucked, continuing to the
wrist, with points reaching well out
over the hand. . A Ion; sash , of silk
wound twice about the waist and
knotted at the front, with tasseled
ends, completes this pretty costume.
No. 1 shows a dainty design for a
girlish little morning house-gown, and
No. 2 shows a modish little driving
jacket, edged with satin.
No. 6 illustrates the bodice of anoth
er effective frock for young girls, in
which silk fringe is combined with
lace, rosette and- buttons in the trim
ming. The high, shirred girdle worn
with this bodice is one of the new lead
ing features of young girl's fashions.
Into a bowl or fruit Jar, cover with a
damp cloth pressed down over It and
set away at least 24 hours to ripen.
Material Most Useful. .
This cream is not only the founda
tion of innumerable candies, but makes
one of the best and most delicious cake
frostlngs. Moreover, it will keep for
months. If in a cool place and well cov
ered, and a large jar of it Is a splendid
thing to keep on the "emergency shelf."
Another method of working the syrup
was taught me by a candy manufacturer.
Instead of turning the syrup out to
cool, wipe the sides of the pan and
let the syrup cool undisturbed until the
surface can be dented. Then hold the
pan firmly to the table and induce a pair
of strong, masculine arms to stir the
syrup violently with a long wooden pad
die' (if you haven't one, get him to
whittle it out of a stick of kindling),
until the whole is a thick, creamy mass;
turn out on a board, knead, and pack
away as above. Given the willing mas
culine muscles, this latter method is an
admirable one for a larger quantity of
syrup: but it is not an easy one for
a single pair of feminine hands.
AVhat May Go "Wrong.
But suppose the sugar refuses to work
into a "smooth, creamy mass." and be
comes grainy and hard? That means
that you have overboiled it, or that the
mixture was not cool enough when you
began working it. Don't be discouraged.
Put it back in the pan with some more
water and repeat the whole process. It
will probably come right this time. As
a last resort overcooked sugar can al
ways be made into butter scotch, peanut
brittle or caramel.
Having, a good stock of fondant you
Bookcases
Writing Desks
Morris Chairs
Rockers
Parlor Suits
Davenports
feat
4 5L Hall Trees
w-.'-K s. - - -
WP$$& Leather Couches
m$mmmZ Library
Dining Tables
Sideboards
Dressers
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are now . ready for , the flavoring, color
ing and making ,up of the candies. This
should -be done not too far ahead of
Christmas, but. is ' not a heavy task if
all the accessories are prepared before
hand. ,
For flavoring you may have any of
the following: Peppermint, almond. lem
on, orange,, vanilla, rose, wintergreen,
anise-seed, cinnamon, chocolate, coffee,
caramel, mapleine; or sherry.
For 'coloring there' are various harm
less "fruit colors" on 1 the market, or
you. can " use the' pink coloring that
comes with gelatine.;' For varying shades
of yellow-and brown caramel solution is
very useful, while a .'few. drops of grape
juice -.neutralized" w-ith soda will give
lavender tones.- The coloring and flavor
ing should be kneaded into the fondant
as required. Centers, for dipped creams
are -Improved by standing over night,
so that a thin: film hardens over the soft
fondant.'' ' ' j - ;
Besides . cream ." centers you may have
nuts of various kinds, crystallized fruits,
fresh : fruits (such as grapes or orange
sections) for immediate use; gum drops,
marshmaUows, . dried ; fruit stuffed with
nuts,. and .fondant marshmaUows.
squares bf firm fruit, marmalade, nut
paste and'so forth. Take a hint from
the confectionery - stores. One of the
choicest fillings, .however, is a strictty
home-made .one currant or grape Jelly
stiffened slightly : with'-gelatine and cut
in squares when cold.
How to Dip Centers.
For dipping have all the centers readr
and pieces'' of- oiled '. or paraffine pape.
prepared.' Melt the fondant in a double
boiler "and coat the - centers, one at a
time, dipping them with the aid of candy
dipper, fork, skewer, tongs or spoon,
as is most' convenient, 'and placing them
side by side on the papers to dry.
For final decoration nuts or bits of
A Hafier of Great
Imporfaneo fo
Amerisan Vcmon
' One hundred years of success have demonstrated the truth
cannot overstate the extraordinary results that follow the faithful
.of all hair tonics.
We wish it were possible to send you a sample bottle with
your copy, of this newspaper. Oft course thisisnot practical, but we
want' every reader, man or woman, to have a sample of this peerless
hair , tonic, so please write us to-day.
Simply Tear Out This Ad,
Write your name and address plainly, and wrap up 10 cents
-in it (to pay postage and packing) and we will send you a liberal
- sample .at once.
With the sample of ED. PINAUD'S Hair Tonic
we will send absolutely free of charge, a miniature bottle of the
finest French perfume in the world
ED. PINAUD'S LILAC VECETAL EXTRACT
This delightful perfume is used for handkerchief, atomizer, bath and finger
bowl., It is exquisitely delicate; one drop diffuses the fragrant odor of a bouquet of
freshly cut blossoms. Lilac perfume is the latest craze in Paris. ,
WRTTK JfT.r.T WITTT T-EyCTT. OR
Name '.
Address -
City - -
' State 1- " ..
' '" DEPT. sa
Chiffonieres
Rugs
Victor Talking Machines
Gentlemen's Wardrobes
Turkish Rockers
China Closets
Record Cabinets
Music jCabinets
Ladies' Dressing Tables
Shaving Stands
Edison Phonographs
Cheval Glasses
-
Tables
Others Pay Rent
We Collect Rent
On Half Our Own Building
Who Can Sell
the Cheapest
FURMITUREt?
preserved fruit are useful. Chopped
green pistachio nuts make pretty candies,
combined with white creams. Crushed
candied violets, mint leaves and rose
petals are also effective; and though
these decorating materials are compara
tively expensive, very little is needed to
give a pretty, and uncommon effect.
Moreover, the "fore-handed" girl makes
them for herself when the flowers are
at their best, and stores them for Christ
mas. Tatooed Society Aristocrats,
Philadelphia Dispatch.
That mankind retains a little of the
barbarous predilection for personal
adornment is evidenced by the report
that Sutherland SlacDonald. a noted
Scotch tattooer, has sailed from England
to practice his art upon the skins of the
socially elect of Philadelphia.
The artist's fame reached here some
time ago when certain young society men
recently returned from abroad, proudly
exhibited to their elnbmates armorial
bearings. crests. Chinese dragons,
snakes, jackrabbits and fancy arabesques
with which the tattooer had decorated
their bodies.
This was enough to make a few others
jealous, and the ladies are likewise agog
at the widespread report that the Scotch
man can tatoo upon the delicate cheeks
a blush that won't come off. Some of the
Philadelphia society men said to have al
ready patronized the tatooer are Dr. Wil
liam H. Furness, Walter Furness and
A'.fred C. Harrison, Jr.
"Fashions in linger Xails,
Kancas City Journal.
Fashions change, even in finger nails,
and the pointed nails of a few years
ago are looked upon as almost barbaric
at present. It also seems that women
TO-NIGHT, WHEN YOTT COMB TOUR HAIR,
see whether the combings are more than usual, and look for
the small, white flakes that indicate dandruff. If dandruff
is present, get rid of it at once, if you really value long,
abundant hair. Your hair cannot be healthy and strong if
you have dandruff.
The greatest preparation in the world for dandruff is
ED. Pli-fiUD'S HAIR TOiW
9
(Eau de Quinine)
TEN".
Parfumerie
AMERICAN
ED. PINAUD BUILDING, dept
FIFTH AVENUE
rv-.. . 1
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"V 'i ,V?;
0-;""--;'::-?-
;':;'?'il ;'"'.
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?i':-fi: .
are becoming sensible in another dig
ital detail. High polishins: is no longer
the rule, as, of course, it never whs
practioeu by women of lino taste. The
pointed nail and the his:h polish have
passed out. and the chances are histor
ians in future days will look back and
rank them with crinoline, its evidcuco
of a crude and uiuli.scritninn.tinp: nyre.
In caring for their linger nails women
now try to follow nature instead of
opposing or distorting it. The n.it lira I
contour of the nail is preserved as far
as possible, and the manicure is not
permitted to pursue any of her some
times costly hobbies.
Yoke Women and Dogs.
London Globe.
H. Jachelson has come across in
Northern Siberia a tribe, tho YuUoghirs,
differing ill every respect from other
Kskimo tribes both in aspect, language
and customs. There is a line sphere
here for suffragettes if they have any
superfluous energy aVer worrying our
unhappy government ror foreign mis
sionary work, as we learn that the wo
men are yoked to tho sledges with the
dogs, and draw their lords and mas
ters. Tho old people are killed oil
when they become 'useless.
Mealier.
Henry Van Dyke.
Her eyes are like the evening ali
Her voice is like a rose.
Her lips are like a lorely song.
That ripples ns it flows.
And she herself is sweeter than
The sweetest tiling she knows.
A slender, haunting, twilight form
Of wonder and surprise,
She seemed a fairy or a child.
Till, deep within her eyes.
I saw the homeward-leading star.
Of womanhood arise.
of this assertion. We
use of this most famous
: .1.
TAUPE 0UININI
ED. P1NAUD
OFFICES
SO
NEW YORK
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