1 HE SUNDA1 OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 25, 1903.
BOUDOIR GOWNS GIVE WIDE RANGE TO THE
HOUSEWIFE TO APPLY ORIGINAL IDEAS
EMPIRE AND DIRE CTO IRE MODES HAVE BEEN ADOPTED FOE PRETTY INDOOR COSTUMES
"BACK-RESTING"
"SELF-REDUCING'
FOR MEDIUM AND
FOP EVERY TYPE OF
STOUT-WOMEN
SLENDER FIGURES
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FTEH the fatiguing- hours spent
at the modistes In selecting and
fitting: the tailored and dinner
gowns, the average woman finds It
necessary to turn her attention to the
essential negligees and matinees which
play such an Important role in my
lady's wardrobe and which, like the
other gowns. .re constantly changing
In style. For the matron who has
leisure hours and deft fingers the plan
ning of one of these dainty concoctions
Is a simple matter, and with the as
sistance of a few yards of filmy silk
or chiffon and a holt of effective lace,
the results are usually most gratifying,
and enable her to show various degrees
of Individuality.
Since the recent crnre for the em
pire and directolre modes, these same
lines are manifest in the pretty bou
doir gowns. Number 5 of this collec
tion of pictures represents an attrac
tive peignoir which is composed of a
finely tucked Dresden chiffon, the cape
effect outlined with a filmy lace, while
m. smart knot of black velvet ribbon
gives the required finish. As a sug
gestion a pretty short lengthed peig
noir which bore a Parisian stamp, and
one of the very dainty articles of a
recent trousseau was composed of per
pendicular lengths of palest blue satin
ribbon, one Inch In width which was
Joined alternately by heavy ecru lace
of the same width and which fell in
clinging lines over the hips. As a chic
contrast a soft girdle of emerald panne
Kreen velvet snugly encircled the waist
while a tiny circular collar of the same
shade was a smart finish for the neck.
Number 2 represents a becoming neg
ligee or breakfast gown which is built
N :t f iff m'
'
on the empire lines and composed of
the softest plaited directolre satin of
a delicate coral pink, with flower pat
tern of a deeper tint and . the merest
suggestion of a gold thread. The em
pire girdle as well as the collar has
for a finish a narrow band of cloth of
gold.
Many of the new gowns, which ore built
on the new directolre lines, quite resemble
the reception and dinner gowns worn by
the stunning women figured in the old
fashioned English prints, which are char
acterized in most instances by the short
walsted empire style, while the remainder
of the material falls In graceful lines to
the hem of the gown. Never before has
there been such a diversity In color and
the shades are not alone confined to
street and dinner gowns but are being
widely shown in the more intimate house
gowns. The taupe shade, while bordering
on the more severe tints. Is especially
adapted for matrons with silver hair,
amethyst is particularly becoming and
appropriate for those coming out of
mourning, while the pastel shades are
not only attractive but generally be
coming to both young and old.
No. 1 is the front view of model 2 and
shows how the empire back view of the
girdle gradually tapers to the waist line,
where it is held in place by a fancj pin
or button. No. 4 and No. 3 are sug
gestions for simple and Informal after
noon costhmes. The former consists of
an accordion-plaited white chiffon with a
conventional design In brilliant shades of
yellow, while broad bands of Venetian lace
and a suggestion of black velvet are used
In elaborating the corsage.
No. 3, which Is charmingly adapted for
an older matron, is composed of a black
net with a tiny dot of lavender whloh la
worn over a foundation of an amethyst
shade of messallne, while a directolre
sash, of palest satin figured with em
bossed design of velvet, fastens at the
waist Una and falls gracefully below the
knees.
Season at Hand When Pickles
Figure in Domestic Economy
How Home-Grown Ingredients May Take Place of Exotics
in Preparing Many Relishes.
BT UIJAX TTNGIJI.
WITH the end of the season, . when
tomatoes are green Instead of red
and peppers are red Instead of
gren. the woman with a garden and the
woman without one. for that matter,
tends to think of pickles and relishes,
chowchow. mangoes, .chutneys and store
sauces for the Winter months.
Of course these various relishes, highly
seasoned and strongly acid as many of
them are. and composed often of decidedly
lndigttble material, cannot be considered
particularly wholesome, and are best
avoided by children or persons of delicate
digestion.
But if used with discretion, they are
often helpful in making a plain meat dish
attractive, or in adding flavor and zest
to a soup, sauce, or salad that seems
lack in that elusive element which the
gourmet calls "character."
In connection with all relishes it Is
well to bear In mind and adapt the words
of Muller, the Teutonic "head of the
woods and forests of all India." In one of
Kipling's dories. He exhorts his cook
to remember that "Worcester sauce, he
Is a gondlment and not a fluid." There
are pome people who seem to forget that
a pickle, also. Is "a Ron Jim em" and
not a food.
It is perhaps a little late for one of the
nicesi and newest rellehes that 1 know
"mint grapes." made from the Thompson
seedless varietv. After washing and
pirktnR over the grapes you cook them
In a double boiler or tireless cooker, with
bunch of fresh mint, until they are
white and swollen. Then cover with
white vinegar, adding half a cup of sugar
and one-half teaepoonful of salt for every
cup of vinegar used- Add a few more
sprigs of mint and bring to a bolL Use
a few drops of green vegetable coloring
or spinach Juice to suggest the mint
flavoring and put up in small glass cans
or Jelly lasseo. These mint grapes are
rather expensive to buy on account of
their comparative novelty, but are very
easy to make. A passable Imitation can
be made in mid-Winter by the use of
fine white bleached Sultana ralJtns.
These mtwt be soaked and cooked in a
little lemon Juice and water until swollen,
like the grapes and then similarly treated.
They make a good accompaniment for
mutton or lamb In place of the conven
tional mint Jelly or mint sauce.
Another very simple relish is known
In different places as "Gunners' De
light" or "Ladles' Jjelight." I don't 1
know why or how It got Its name, but
this is how it Is made:
Take equal parts chopped onions and
chopped or grated apples. For every
quart of this mixture add half a cup
sultanas or seeded raisins and, if ap
proved, half a clove of garlic,
crushed. Mix well, pack Into Jars and
cover with spiced vinegar. This will
be ready for use In a week.
Chutneys are useful things to have
on hand, besides being the proper ac
companiment for curries or deviled
fish or meats. There Is a wide differ
ence In the flavor and quality of the
various chutneys sold. Many are Im
ported Madras, Tirhoot. Bengal Club.
Lucknow, and Indian Mango chutneys
being the most well known. These, of
course, are made with the fresh Indian
spices and fruits, and can only be imi
tated at a distance In the home-mads
kinds. Ths latter, however, are Inex
pensive, and, if carefully made, will
prove satisfactory to those who have
not been always accustomed to "the
real thing."
Chutneys are . usually mixtures of
acid, hot and sweet flavoring material.
One of my favorite and most success
ful chutneys has the following In
gredients: Kentish cherries, peaches,
apples, raisins (two kinds). lemons,
vinegar, cloves, alsplce. mace, cayenne,
ginger, cinnamon, onions, garlic, salt
and celery. It sounds rather uncanny.
1 know, though really very good; but
as some of the Ingredients are out of
season, I will give instead a well-tested
recipe for "East India tomato chut
ney" recently sent to me by a "not
able housekeeper" (Mrs. fi. Portland),
whom I take this opportunity of thank
ing. These axe the proportions: Two
pounds sugar, four pounds ripe toma
tles. one pound sultana raisins, two
ounces salt, two ounces mustard seed,
one quart vinegar, one-half ounce (or
less o taste) cayenne.
Skin the tomatoes and cut them In
pieces, boll 20 minutes In half the vine
gar. Boil the other Ingredients with
the rest of the vinegar. Mix all to
gether when cold. Let stand (protect
ed from dust) four days; then put up in
cans, preferably those with glass
covers.
Here Is an apple chutney, which will
keep for years. If necessary: though In
our family it never had a chance to do
so: Two pounds brown sugar, two
quarts brown vinegar (less If the ap
ples are very Juicy), four and one-half
pounds good cooking apples, weighed
after coring and peeling; one and one
half pounds raisins (seeded), four
ounces salt; one ounce mustard seed,
one ounce grated ginger (or horse
radish), one-quarter ounce (or less as
liked) cayenne, one-half ounce garlic
crushed or finely chopped.
Cook all together like Jam. It is best
cooked slowly and needs careful Btlrring
to avoid burning. A little finely chopped
celery, or some celery, seed is considered
an Improvement by some people. Half
the raisins may be chopped, or all may
be left whole. Keep the kettle covered to
exclude dust and stir every day for a
week. Then put up in wide necked
bottles with corks and sealing wax, or
In Mason Jars.
Here Is an excellent recipe for chow
chow the Ingredients for which are easily
obtainable at present: . One-half peck
green tomatoes, 12 green peppers, 2 heads
cabbage (medium size), hi peck onions.
14 peck cucumbers. cup salt, 2 ounces
pepper corns. 2 ounces allspice, 2 ounces
celery seed, V pound mustard seed, 1
pound sugar.
Chop the vegetables the meat chopper
saves time and strength, and mix with
the salt. Put In a bag to drain over
night. Next put into a preserving kettle
with the sugar and spices and Just
enough vinegar to cover. Let come to
a boll and bottle.
Personally I prefer to add two heads of
celery and chop this with the other vege
tables Instead of using the celery seed;
but both ways are good. Cauliflower
might be substituted for the cabbage.
If you have a garden don't forget that
nasturtium seeds, the seed pods of over
grown radishes and similar edible "left
overs" are good additions to mixed
pickles and chow chows.
WOMAN VICTIM OF HATE
Doctor's Servant Suffers Mysterious
Attack While Alone in House.
PARIS. Oct. 24. Extremely mysteri
ous Is an affair which occurred at the
house of Dn. Berault. five years in prac
tice at the neighboring township of Ar
genteull. An evening or two ago he
went to vlslt some patients, leaving a
young widow, who had entered his
service a few days before. In charge.
When he returned, about midnight, he
found the front door ajar and the
woman lying Insensible on the floor.
Believing her murdered, he rushed to
the police station, and came back with
the police.
Much to the doctor's relief, the ser
vant recovered somewhat, and begged
them, as she was still dazed, not to hurt
her, and finally related her adventure.
Hardly had Dr. Berault gone out when
she heard a' noise In the hall, and, pro-
two men. One of them asked for the
physician, and on being told he was
out, said he would leave word for him.
They entered the study, uninvited,
and while one scrawled a few lines his
companion began rummaging the draw
ers. When the woman remonstrated,
she was told: "We are not going to
do you any harm." But one of the men
struck her and she fell, knocking her
forehead against a chair. A piece of
linen was shaken In her face, and she
lost consciousness.
Such was the servant's narrative. The
study was in great confusion. All
sorts of articles were lying on the floor.
On the doctor's desk was the note:
"By order of Jeanne, this woman has
to disappear. You would not care to
have so charming a . woman In your
service."
It is naturally assumed that the at
tack was -committed out of . revenge.
When the widow took up her duties, a
woman called and Insulted her grossly,
another female following suit two days
later.
ONCE RICH; NOW PAUPER
Woman Who Formerly Had Fortune
Faints From Hunger in Church.
PARIS, Oct. 21. While the beadle in
the Church of Saint Lambert, at Bau
girard. was making his rounds the other
day, he was surprised to find a woman,
apparently lifeless, in the nave of the
building. After vain attempts to re
store her to consciousness, he called In
the police. ' arid the woman, who had
merely fainted from weakness and want,
was conveyed to a hospital, where she
has since recovered.
She comes of a good family in Peru.,
and is the aunt of a former Peruvian
Minister of War. She had at one time
a considerable fortune of her own, but
lost it through Ill-advised speculation,
and has been in France for some time,
perfectly destitute, so much so that
fears are now entertained for her rea
son. Aiter she had partially recovered
at the hospital, she said that she had
come here from Havre, where aha had
been staying at the Hotel Moderne. and
that she was to meet in a few days a
lawyer from New York, who had In
formed her that she had inherited a sum
of nearly J1.00O.O0O from her brother. Un
fortunately. It turned out that this sup
posed inheritance was - merely an illusion.
Olympia Malt Extract, good for grand
ma or baby. Only 15-ino of 1 per cent
alcohol. Phones Main 671. A 2467.
Some women can wear almost
any corset; for all corsets except
the Nemo are virtually copies of
each other, while
NEMO CORSETS
ARE DIFFERENT
All other so-called "reducing"
corsets, and imitations of the Nemo,
simply squeeze the form and
crowd the delicate internal or
gans. The Nemo alone gives sup
port and comfort. That's where
NEMO CORSETS
ARE DIFFERENT
All other corsets that try to
produce the very slender effect of
present fashion, if they do reduce
the figure, make it impossible for
the wearer to breathe" freely or
even to sit down. But
NEMO CORSETS
ARE DIFFERENT
because they give the utmost
slenderness to every figure
stout, medium or slight with
perfect comfort whether standing
or seated.
'
a 5 mi r4- BRING YOU HEALTH
iySiOUi' lllCUlU OCID COMFORT AND STYLE
$4j
00
Mere than a million STOUT WOMEN will wear no corset but the Nemo "SELF-REDUCING .'
Thousands of SLENDER WOMEN already know that the Nemo "BACK-RESTING" Corset
relieves backache like magic. No substitute for the Nemo not even a good imitation.
NEMO BACK-RESTING CORSET No. 351. A beautiful model, for slender and
IT RESTS YOUR BACK." medium figures. Long, sloping, clinging
back, flat hip effect, The back steels cannot turn and dig into your flesh. In sizes 18 to 26
NEMO SELF-REDUCING CORSET The oly corset that positively reduces the abdomen
"MAKE STOUT WOMEN SLENDER" with increased comfort and absolute hygienic safety. The
new Flotning-Back models reduce both abdomen and hips, and make Frincesse effects possible to stout figures:
Model No. 312, for tall stout women; No. 320, same model, with Flatning-Back ) jJO 50
Model No. 314, for short stout women; No. 318, samemodel, with Flatning-Back ) O
No. 516, mercerized brocade; tall stout; No. 518, same material; short,-stout I $C 00
No.517,Frenchcoutil;tall,Flatning-Back;No.515,Frenchcoutil,bustsupporters ) 9
No. 1000 of finest imported French coutil, new triple reducing straps over hip $10.00
Nemo Corsets are sold in good stores throughout the world. Ask your dealer. Write us for booklet,
"Hygienic Figure-Building," free on request KOPS BROS., Mfrs, San Francisco Office, 154 Sutter Street.
Gardner Commends Aims of
Portland Needlework Guild
Declares Society Would Be Much Better Supported if Public, Understood
Its Objects and Membership Eequirements.
THAT the work of the 'eedlework
Guild of America. Is not clearly under
stood by the people of Portland, was the
opinion expressed recently by Superin
tendent Gardner, of the; Boys' and Girls'
Aid Society of this city. Mr. Gardner de
clares that the branches of the Needle
work Guild in Eastern cities distributes
many thousands of new garments to char
itable Institutions every year, while in
Portland the number is not more than
1500. This lack of patronage he believes
Is due entirely to the fact that the pur
pose of the guild Is not understood or ap
preciated by the public Discussing the
work of the guild, Mr. Gardner said:
"For those who are not conversant with
the work of the Needlework Guild, I wish
to say that their work is to furnish char
itable Institutions with new garments,
consisting of stockings, underwear, table
and bed linen,' and In fact any and all arti
cles of clothing that may be needed. Any
person can become a member of this ex
cellent society by contributing two or
more garments to be given away thus, -a
person contributing two towels would be ,
considered a member. All gifts must be
received before October 30. at whleh date
they will be on exhibition and the ladies
will have a sort of reception.
"The different societies have received
from the guild a printed form which they
are asked to fill out setting forth the
number and kind of garments required.
This requisition will be followed by the
Needlework Guild as nearly as possible,
and if enough members were secured they
would be enabled to supply new articles
for dependents, both children and adults,
whloh would be very much more desir
able and far more serviceable than the
cast off clothing that has to be distributed
now by charitable institutions.
"I therefore sincerely trust that every
one will consider himself In duty bound to
contribute his mite towards this worthy
charity. Garments can be sent to mem
bers of the guild or In care of the Asso
ciated Charities. All packages should be
plainly marked for the Needlework Guild
of America, care of Associated Charities,
303 Jefferson street Following are some
of the members: Mrs. James E. Reed,
president; Mrs. Alex Burnstein. treasurer; '
Miss A. Cremen. secretary, 408 Twelfth
street: Miss Henrietta Failing, Mrs. Will
iam Jones, Mrs. Herbert Holman, Mrs.
W. C. Alvord and Mrs. William Brew
ster." .
ENORMOUS LOSS IN COAL
Trad Ioses $1,500,000 Weekly,
Owing to Cotton Lockout.
CONDON, Oct 24. (Special.) The
shutting down of 500 mills as the re
sult of the cotton-trade lockout has re
duced the consumption of engine coal
by 700.000 tons per week. Calculated at
J2 per ton this represents a loss of
trade amounting to tl.BOO.OOO a week.
Oldham, the center of the spinning
industry. Is the first of the cotton
towns to feel the pinch of the lock-out.
Of the 320 mills In the town only 20
are now working. It Is not the opera
tives who have their look-out pay from
their unions to fall back on, who are
beginning to feel the pressure of the
Industrial warfare, but the shopkeepers,
particularly at the small shops, who
depended on the custom of the mill
girls.
No one has the heart to buy any
thing short of actual necessities. No
new dresses are being made In Old
ham Just now, and dressmakers are re
ducing the number of their workroom
hands, and the milliners' shops. Of
which the female cotton operative was
the generous patron, are deserted.
The situation was discussed at a
meeting of the distress oommlttee last
night, and the Mayor has summoned a
special meeting of the Council for to
night, when a deputation from the dis
tress committee will make suggestions
for providing relief work.
Shell Flsll and Sea Foods served as
thv hnnlii be at the Perkins GrilL No
oa ding Uutiitr. oame face to face with Liiuer oysters In the world.
' YOU CAN EASILY
HAVE LONG, BEAUTIFUL HAIR
IT SIMPLY REQUIRES BRUSHING FIVE
MINUTES A DAY, AN OCCASIONAL
SHAMPOO AND FAITHFUL USE OF
ED. MUD'S HAIR TONIC
EAU DE
QUININE
Massage this delightful French preparation into the scalp every night for
a month, and watch your hair grow long, abundant and lustrous.
ED. PINAUD'S Hair Tonic instantly removes dandruff, keeps the scalp
clean and healthy, and imparts such a feeling of comfort. Its delicate perfume
appeals to people of refinement. '
Let us send you a sample bottle. Write today enclosing 10 cents (to pay
postage and packing).
Parfumerie ED. PINAUD. DEPT. C
ED. PINAUD BUILDING - - - FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK
Men and women everywhere unite in praising ED. PINAUD'S LILAC VEGETAL EXTRACT.
For women it is a delicate perfume for handkerchief and atomizer, for men it is
a delightful after-shaving preparation.
4