The Home Dressmaker and
the Winter Wraps
WHEN the family purse is looking
a trifle slim, the problem of the
Winter wrap Is always doubly
serious, and I have received a number
of letters requesting- help in its solu
tion.
"What is the best investment for a
semi-dressy wrap this season?" writes
on correspondent.
"I have looked In all the shops for a
reasonably priced coat," writes another,
"and I rouM find nothing I would have
under $31.00. I simply cannot pay this
price, and as 1 am handy with both
machine and needle, do you not think
I could do better than this by making
the coat at home?"
These two questions are worth an-
ewerlng In detail.
Certainly the best investment for a
semi-dressy urap. by which I think my
correspondent means a wrap which can
be worn over a number of one-piece or
two-piece dresses to church, calling,
receptions and perhaps even to the
theater or evening function over an
evening (own, Is something lone, sim
ple and Inconspicuous. The separace
wrap Is, above all things, long and
trracefuL Simplicity of design Is less
pt to attract attention and prove that
Its wearer has but one good outdoor
wrap, than the more pronounced pat
terns, loaded with trimmings. And the
inconspicuous coloring, such as black,
a soft, reliable mode of tan. or a be
coming subtle gray. Is sure to combine
well with almost any coloring of
(owns.
Generally speaking I think there is
no wrap for such use that can compare
with a semi-fitted long coat or cloak
of black broadcloth so trimmed with
fine silk braid and handsome buttons
that it can be worn with semi-tailored
gowns on the street, and by the addi
tion of a striking lace collar will be
transformed Into an evening wrap. ,
Next to black broadcloth comes vel
vet, and this is particularly effective
over silk or broadcloth suits. It is not
no good, however, over coarse cloth
mixtures, Silk wraps are never a good
investment for the woman who must
use one coat or cloak very hard during
an entire season, and neither is silk a
warm enoush fabric for the average
climate In this country.
So much for the first question. Now
for the second.
The success of making an oxjter gar
ment at home depends upon two things
the tailoring ability of the home
sewer and the quality of fabric em
ployed. The woman who Imagines that
she can cut the price of a thirty-dollar
garment in two by making It at home
is greatly mistaken. She will do won
derfully If she gets It for twenty dol
lars. This ten dollar saving does not
represent the retailer's profit by any
means, because the retailer pays for
the wholesaler's labor and "style."
Say you wish to duplicate a black
broadcloth wrap trimmed with heavy
sHk braid and ornaments. Just what
will It cost? For a coat In two-Thirds
or three-fourths length you will re
quire at least four yards of broadcloth.
F2 Inches wide. If you are very tall
and you use the full length sleeve now '
Good form and Self Control
SELF-CONTROL. Is first aid to so
cial success. Occasionally, or more
properly speaking rarely, you will
meet a social leader who seems to fairly
blaze her way by the aid of an ungov
ernable temper, a sharp tongue and a
hauteur which Is maddening to all who
feel obliged to bow to her. But In such
a case this leadership Is due not to the
inborn right to lead but to the possession
of greater wealth than all her neighbors,
political power held by her husband,
charities dispensed with royal prodipallty
or other purely extraneous claims to
leadership. She Is despised and feared,
and her supremacy Is always menaced
bv a woman whose charms and social
power come from within.
W all remember the story of a
famous hostess who to relieve the em
barrassment of a man guilty of break
ing one of her finest cups, deliberately
dropped the one she was using and
acted as if the entire catastrophe was
a mere trifle. It is hardly necessary
to go to such lengths to reassure a guest,
but the hostess who can forget her own
loss and annoyance t the .careless but
entirely unintentional mishap to her
property at the hand of a guest is the
woman who has mastered this first aid
to good form.
Not long ago at a reception a man.
hastening to relieve his hos;tess of a
cup of tea she had Just poured, spilled
some of the amber-colored fluid on her
delicately tinted satin house frock.
With a mechanical smile she accepted
Ms abject apologies, but the women
present saw an ominous flush stealing
up under her lace collar. When lier
daughter, a minute or so later, ap
prcKwhed the tea table she hissed:
"Never ask that man here again.
lie's a boor."
The next dav, when a skilful maid
had removed all trace of the stain and
the liobtess had utterly forgotten her
unnecessary comment on the awkward
guest, the story was being repeated all
1 1. rough th dratking-rooms of their set
by tattling women, the better appreciated
bit ause the awkward young man's en
ticement to the daughter of a famous
Munclor had been announced In ttie
morning papers. When his hostess of
t!i day before heard this news and the
fa it that her sharp speech was being re
peat".! a!! over town, she was in the
il-pth.3 of humiliation.
Hoar In mind that the woman who
ccine to your home with a spiteful bit
of gosip. some ugly remark which Mrs.
S. ami-,-'-, lias made about you. will
itirry w iijttover you say in response
straight to Mrs. So-and-So. Here is your
ciiar.ie to exert self-control and give
1;t nothing to tarry. Tou can turn aside
the b t of gossip by talking of something
else, or even by saying that you are
sorry Mrs. So-and-So feels so hardly to
nard you. as you like to have friends
amor.g your own sex.
Perhaps the same woman will come
mother day and tell you that the Mon
day Morning Club has blackballed your
l-.ame when proposed for membership.
Now. do not. If you value your social
future, tell the miserable tattler what
you thtnk of the club and Its members
individually. She will repeat all that
y.n:i say with flounces and fringes.
More than likely the club has not yet
taken Action on your application, and
the caller is merely retailing Idle rumors.
But if It goes bark to the club that you
consider all Its members social climbers
ami the club a gaOiering of, would-be
in favor you may require even more,
according to the pattern selected. This
will cost $10.00. Your lining, in a qual
ity of satin which will wear will cost
you at least 36.00 more, for it does not
pay to use flimsy satin for lining, and
taffeta is little used in coat linings
this year. Add to this at least S5.00 for
findings, cords, braids, buttons, etc. and
some outsido tailoring which is abso
lutely essential to the correct fit and
set of the garment.
So, you see. without your time and
labor, you will invest at least 321.00,
showing a saving of fS.Od on the In
vestment. And to make this a real
satisfactory saving you must exercise
great care in the tailoring and finish
of the garment.
Important points to be considered are
the stitching and pressing of the wrap.
Use heavy' pelf-tone sewing silk for
stitching and be sure that your machine
Is perfectly adjusted. If the stitch
pulls, or drops, or the tension is too
tight or too loose, you will not have
a tailored garment. Never use cotton
thread in any part of the stitching.
Unless you have plenty of length, do
not attempt to press the garment. A
nearby tailor will do this for a trifle
and get better results. If you do
your own pressing, remember that the
seams must be pressed on both sides,
on the upper side by covering the cloth
with a plainly woven dampened fab
ric that will leave no mark of the
weave on your broadcloth. That
means that you must not employ a
piece of honeycomb toweling, which
will leave diamond-shaped markings all
over the cloth.
A slender woman must always canvas
her coat, and if the snug-fitting tail
ored look is to be secured, canvas must
be nsed for any and all figures. Io
not buy small and unimportant-looking
buttons or braid ornaments for a large
wrap. A couple of large, handsome but
tons will give better results than a
number of small, cheap-looking ones,
and big, braid ornaments must be em
ployed on the large cloaks now in
vogue.
Sleeves are either very fussy or se
verely plain. The long, plain sleeve
fits the arm like a glove and Is fitted
Into the arm s eye with gussets in
stead of pleats. It also comes down
over the hand almost to the knuckles.
The fancy sleeves are cut in oddly
shaped pieces, but show very little
gathering or pleating. The fancy ef
fect Is secured by the application of
braid.
Another feature of the season's wraps
is the preponderance of short-waisced
effects. Boleros are often used to se
cure this, scheme, or a bolero effect Is
simulated by the application of braid.
A novelty in lining for wraps to be
used for dressy wear Is the white, pale
gray, or delicate mode lining which will
not eoll light frocks, run to the waist
line only, and then the tails of the long
coat or wrap are lined with self-tone.
For Instance, a black broadcloth wrap
to be worn with light waist or frock
will be lined through the sleeves and
waist section with white satin and the
tails with black satin.
Heaviness is the general attribute of
the up-to-date wrap, as will be seen by
refering to today's illustrations cop-
led from some of the smartest wraps on
exhibit at late Fall openings.
MART DEAN.
literary lights, the blackballing will fall
to your lot without fail.
Just wait until the friend who pro
posed your name for membership noti
fies you of tlie result. Plenty of time
then to express your optnion of the
club which does not desire you as a
member. The word you do not speak
today cannot turn to sting you tomor
row. If Mrs. Jones-Smith is sending out in
vitations for her daughter's wedding and
you fail to get a card, though you went
to school with that daughter, do not run
over to Mrs. Blank-Dash's and tell her
what you think of the ungrateful Jones
Smith set. Perhaps, after the bitter
words are spoken, Mrs. Jones-Smith may
call you by phone and tell you that the
full quota of envelopes did not accom
pany the Invitations, and as you were
one of the old family friends your in
vitation was held up a day. And. what is
more, you must be sure to come over to
the dinner given to Myra's wedding
tarty.
Of course, Mrs. Jones-Smith should
either have seen that the full comple
ment of envelopes was delivered, or held
up her Invitations a day, but you were as
hasty as Mrs. Jones-Smith and less ex
cusable. You will now try to take back
what you said to Mrs. Blank-Dash, but
already she has gone down to market
and repeated your sharp speech to her
dearest friend. Mrs. aNathan Brown
and there you are. all in a stew for the
lack of a little self-control.
Many a girl has lost her sweetheart
because she flew at him hysterically for
being late in calling to take her to a
dance. She may miss a dance or two,
hut what is that compared to losing
the respect, I was almost going to say
the reverence of a good man?
Do try to exercise self-control, girls.
It is a finer social asset than pink
cheeks, French frocks and a motor-car
of your own.
PRL'DENTB STANDISH.
CoaTcnlcnt Cooking Time-Table.
BROILING.
Thin fish. 5 to 8 minutes.
Thick fish 12 to 15 minutes.
Thin steak. S minutes.
Thick steak. 10 to II minutes.
Umb chops, medium thick. 8 minutes.
Young chicken. 20 minutes.
BAKING.
Plain cake, 10 to 40 minutes.
Sponge cake, B0 to 60 minutes.
Gingerbread, 30 minutes.
Bread jems. 30 minutes
Rolls. 10 to 15 minutes.
Pie crust. 30 to 40 minutes.
Biscuits. 15 to 20 minutes.
Cookies, 10 to 15 minutes.
Itmb or mutton, per pound, 15 minutes.
Ribbed roast beef, per pound, 12 to 15
minutes.
Chicken, 3 to 5 pounds. 1 to 2 hours.
Tame duck, 45 to 60 minutes.
Wild duck. SO to 45 minutes.
I-arce birds, 30 minutes.
Small birds, 15 minutes.
BOILING.
Hominy. 2 to 4 hours.
Rice, In double boiler. 1 hour.
Rice, in boiling water, 20 minutes.
Oatmeal, 1 hour.
Chicken. 2 hours, simmering.
Beef, a la mode. 3 to 4 hours.
Corned beef. 6 to hours, simmering.
Ham. medium slxe, 5 hours.
Smoked towKue, 4 hours.
Turkey. amaJI. 3 hours.
Cod, per pound. 6 minutes,
flams. 3 to 5 minutes.
Bluefish. per pound. 10 minutes.
Finnan Haddle. per pound. 6 minutes.
Sslmnn and Halibut, per pound, ' 15
minutes.
SIMPLE SEMI-FITTED
Trifles That
Very wide chiffon veils in soft, be
coming shades of tan and grayish
green, embroidered or appllqued with
very large dots of a deeper shade and
finished with a broad fold of soft satin
to match the dots. These are used
for draping plain felt hats for outing
purposes.
High back-combs showing . amber
overlaying tortoise-shell or vice versa.
Directoire coats, with the long, swallow-tail
effect, made of black lace or
fancy braids, very transparent, to wear
over evening gowns.
Directoire revers. ready embroid
ered and braided, with cunts and pock
et lapels to match any of the Fall
colorings.
The Mary Garden barettes for the
hair, extremely large, two incnes or
more In width anu four Inches long.
To wear with these are fancy snell
pieces for the fr-nt of the hair in fila
gree shell patterns, Greek borders and
lattice work. They are intended to
help support the heavy masses of false
hair now worn under the huge nats.
One-piece dresses lined with chamois
to do away with a heavy coat These
dresses are Intended for fashi table
affairs, and with them it is only neces
BOLERO EFFECT DONE WITH
COAT,
SMART
Are Seen in
sary to wear a set of handsome furs
and an elaborate hat.
Sliver sandwich trays. A charming
wedding present, consisting of a large
silver plate In filigree work set upon
a short standard. In silver-plated on
white metal they are not very expen
sive. Dotted net veils to be worn over the
large hats, finished with a silk fringe,
not over an inch in depth around three
sides of the veil. This fringe must
match the color of the veil exactly,
and must be of soft silk, not of chenile.
Butterfly designs in evening silks,
vestlngs and hair ornaments. In the
evening silks the coloring is soft grays,
blues, with just dashes of soft, burnt
orange, and other dull combinations.
The vestlngs are gay in colorings, while
the hair ornaments are Jeweled, span
gled, etc.
For street wear the one or two-button
glove in what is known as leather-colored
kid. For evening wear and
formal afternoon occasions, white kid
gloves are worn. Black glove3 are for
mourning only.
Smart stationery In pale and faded
shades only. Foreign paper comes in
pure white, with envelopes of the same
BRAID.
DIRECTOIRE COAT
BRAIDING.
the Shops
paper lined with brilliant hues, such
as purple, scarlet, green and blue.
Shaded chiffon veils that run in col
orings from the palest shade of tan to
a seal brown; from a blue white to a
deep navy; from a faded Nile green to
a deep bottle, etc They can:iot be made
In this country, and. like all Imported
novelties, are expensive.
Macaroni and Cheese on Toast.
Have ready a cup full of macaroni
which has been boiled In salt water
and cut up rather finely. This means
a cup full after cooking, not before,
and the pieces should be half an inch
or more in length. Melt a tablespoon
full of butter in a skillet and add one
tablespoon of cornstarch and stir until
well mixed. Add gradually half a cup
of sweet thin cream and cook two min
utes. Add quarter teaspoon of salt, a
dash of cayenne pepper and quartet
teaspoon of mustard. Into this sauce
stir first your macaroni, then half a
pound of mild American cheese, grated.
Stir and simmer gently until the cheese
has melted, then turn the mixture out
on triangles of toasted bread. Serve
at once.
WITH MODIFIED SHEATH SKIRT
MODEL
IN
Vacation Days and Abuse
of the Hair
MY DESK is literally piled high with
letters from all over the country
written by girls telling me of the
ravages which the Summer sun has
worked upon their hair. It is now too
late to apply the never-failing ounce of
prevention. The harm has been done, and
one cure will not work for all.
The girl who has been to the seashore
and saturated her hair with salt water
every day, then dried it in the broiling
sun, finds her tresses streaked and her
scalp itchy and dry. Her case is gener
ally the most deplorable of all.
' Let her begin work at once, and she
should not cease in her efforts until she
has restored her hair to Its natural gloss
and health. If the hair Is dark brown
or black, 'and has faded streaks thrdugh
it from salt water and sun, I know of no
safer cure than touching up these streaks
with an herb lotion. This is not a dye,
but is made of freshly gathered garden
herbs. First shampoo the head, using a
Castile soap Jelly, and then dry in the
sunlight. Apply the herb lotion nightly
'with a toothbrush until .the desired shade
is acquired. Take two ounces of green
tea and two ounces of - freshly dried
garden sage. Put them in an iron pot (no
other" kind of a pot will do) and pour
over them three quarts of boiling hot
water. Let it simmer on the back of the
stove until reduced to one quart; remove
from the fire and let it stand in the Iron
pot for 24 hours. Strain, bottle and apply
as directed above.
Red hair which has become streaked
can be restored by using henna paste.
The hair must be divided Into strands and
then covered with the paste thoroughly.
The paste should be left on for two hours,
then washed off several times In warm
water to which a few drops of ammonia
have been added, and the hair dried in
the sun. '
Henna raste One-quarter pound of
powdered henna, 4 drachms of aceilc acid,
4 drachms of white honey and 4 drachms
of powdered rhubarb. Gloves should be
worn while applying any of these color
ing matters.
Now, to restore the broken ends of hair.
With this condition the hair is generally
very brittle all over. First Hinge the
hair, and to do this the hair must be
divided into long strands end Ithese
strands twisted very tightly, then rub the
hair from the bottom of the twist upward
so that the broken ends will stick out.
With a lighted taper run up and down
the twisted strand, singeing off all
broken ends. The next step Is to mas
sage the scalp with pure olive oil or
yellow vaseline. Yes, I know this is dis
agreeable and makes the hair oily, but
all medicine is not sugar-coated! But
scalp massage is the secret of keeping the
hair healthy and making it grow. It is
not necessary to go to a beauty parlor
you can do it yourself each night in
your cosy room, and if you persist, in a
very short time you will find gratifying
results.
Before dressing the hair and when tak
ing it down, shake it out loosely, letting
The Real Way to Fumigate
IF YOU live in the country or where
there is no board of health to fumi
gate for you after a contagious dis
ease, it is well to know how to do it
for vourself.
Some persons think their duty done
It a few sticks of sulphur are burned
in a room, even after such diseases as
scarlet fever ' or diphtheria. Unless
properly used, sulphur is quite inef
fective. The room must be airtight. This
does not mean doors and windows
closed, but practically hermetically
sealed.
If possible, shut the windows so
that they can be opened from the out
side. It makes it easier on the one
who must open the room after fumiga
tion. Have An hand plenty of cotton bat
ting cut Into strips three or four inches
wide. This should- be stuffed into all
cracks around the doors and windows
and in the keyholes
Cover a register or fireplace -with
unbleached muslin tacked or pasted
tight over the opening, to prevent the
fumes from escaping. An old-fashioned
blower can be used In the fire
place if the edges are stuffed tight.
Open bureau drawers and closets and
open and hang up bedding and any un
derclothing that may have been left In
the room.
Toilet articles of silver or brass fur
nishings should not be used in a Blck
room, as sulphur will ruin them. If
they have been used, wash them off
carefully with carbolic acid solution
or some other disinfectant, and re
move them before fumigating.
Buy rolled sulphur and break it into
small pieces. Every 500 cubic feet of
air space will take about a pound and
three-quarters of sulphur. Three
pounds to a room ten feet square will
answer.
Remember that the effect of the fumes
Is heightened by moisture, so have ves
sels of water standing in the room and
hang up wet sheets. The Iron pot in
which sulphur Is burned can also be
stood in a pan of water.
A small preserving kettle should be
stood in a deep dishpan and both raised
from the floor by inverted flower pots
or bricks.
If the sulphur is saturated with alco
hol it will burn better. It is well to in
vestigate at the end of a half hour or
the sulphur may not have ignited. Do
not open the room for 34 hours.
If you cannot get at the windows from
the outside, cover the mouth and nose
with a damp cloth until the window is
reached, and have a strong draught
blowing from the hall.
Let the room air a day before using
again, and wash off the woodwork and
floor with a solution of carbolic acid
aiyl water in the proportion of a table
spoonful of the acid to a gallon of hot
water.
For scarlet fever or diphtheria bed
ding should be burned or sent to be re
covered. All toys that cannot be washed
should be burned, and books as well.
Scarlet fever has been taken from books
after 30 years. Fresh paper should be
put on the walls.
It Is not enough to fumigate a room
and forget the mother or nurse. Before
Joining the rest of the family she should
take a disinfecting bath and thoroughly
wash off her hair with it also. The
the air get to the ' scalp. Now dip the
fingers In the oil Just the finger tips
place the finger tips at the forehead
where the hair first appears, and grad
ually work them backward over the sculp
in a circular motion. At each turn let the
fingers press deeply enough to move the
scalp and work the oil Into the roots.
Then, with the same circular motion,
still moving the scalp, begin at the ba.se
of the neck and work forward over the
head to the forehead. About 15 minutes
should be spent in this manner every
morning and night.
Then, too, there is the girl who has
neglected her hair and it has become
thin and needs stimulating. For this is
needed a good tonic, which must be mas
saged into the scalp. A very excellent
quinine tonic has been given in these
columns many times, but any reader who
has not seen It and desires it can have
a copy of It if he will send me a
stamped and self -addressed envelope.
Red hair, which was so fashionable
for many years, seems to have gone out
of fashion, and the girl who has been
trying to keep her hair in Titian hues
will do well to let it get back to Its nat
ural color. Nothing but time will do this.
This should be a lesson to the girls who
never have dyed their hair but who "are
Just crazy to do It" Once you dye your
hair you are a. slave to the habit for
years, for it must be kept up constantly.
No dye Is permanent, and nothing Is
quite so unsightly as a girl whose hair Is
half one color and half another.
White hair, once so unfashionable,' has
now become quite the rage, and many of
our smartest women who have been ap
pearing In raven locks for past years are
now pure white. To keep white hair
looking well it should be shampooed very
often and rinsed in water to which has
been added a little common washing blue.
This takes away that yellow tinge so
common and unsightly. Elderly wonin
do not care to shampoo their heads very
often, and a dry shampoo is sometimes
very effective in keeping the hair rure
white and fluffy in appearance. I will
gladly send such a shampoo upon receipt
of a stamped and self-addressed envelope.
This dry shampoo Is also very excellent
for blondes.
Throw all your curling irons out of the
window This is honest advice. They
have done more harm to the hair of the
20th century woman than any instrument
known in the dark ages. Jf Nature did
not give you wavy locks, then help Na
ture by using a simple curling fluid.
Dampen the hair with the following fluid
and put It up on kid curlers over night. I
do not advise the use of this fluid more
than twice a week, however:
Gum tragacant'a ounce
Rose water 1 Pint
Oil of almonds Vz drachm
Crush the gum tragacanth tine, and
pour it into the rose water. Stand in a
warm place, stirring occasionally, till the
gum swells and softens. Strain it twice,
first throush cheesecloth, then through
coarse lawn; add the almond oil and bot
tle. KATHERINB MORTON.
physician will tell you what to use. One
tablet of bichloride of mercury to three
pints of water Is excellent.
Every Novice Should Know.
That orange juice with cracked ice
can often be taken by a patient who can
retain nothing else.
That orange Juice, being laxative, is
excellent in most sick rooms: is some
times even prescribed for typhoid fever
patients.
That chocolate, though nourishing.,
often causes dyspepsia when the diges
tion is weak.
That the nervous patient should have
eight or nine hours of sleep. r
That sleep will be slow in coming If
the sick person is allowed to have com
pany Just before bedtime or listens to
exciting reading.
That one should never ask a sick per
son, "What can, I do for you?"
That dainty service often counts more
than quality or variety in the invalid's
meals.
That the nurse should never save steps
when the patient's appetite is capricious.
A small portion often tempts where a
larger one nauseates. An extra trip to
the kitchen is better than heaped up
trays.
That a sick room should never be made
a thoroughfare or gathering place for the
family.
That sponging with alcohol and water
will reduce fever several degrees.
That, If possible, a patient should be
Induced to give up tea and coffee dur
ing convalescence. In a weakened con
dition they are apt to induce nervous
ness and sleeplessness.
That having a patient hold her breath
will often prevent a spasm of coughing.
That toast water is a soothing and
healing drink during attacks of bron
chitis. That persons subject to rheumatism
or weak heart should not take baths
that are ice cold.
Jeweled Tassels the Newest Kad.
One of the barbaric pieces of jewelry
that has recently been brought into first
fashion Is the three-inch tassel of pre
cious stones.
One may at first wonder how such an
ornament can be used, but once seen one
is convinced that the ornament is not
only beautiful, but very u-.uch to be de
sired.. X
The tassels are sometimes in loops, or
in single strands like fringe. They are
mounted on a ball studded with the same
Jewels, or on a slide of gold which lias
a tiny opening at top.
However they are made, this is the
way they are worn. They are mounted
on the two ends of a quarter-Inch piece
of velvet ribbon. This may be black,
red. blue or green. It Is worn round the
neck at the base of the collar, one end
turned under, then over the other enci.
so that the two tassels fall apart. One
is about two Inches above the other.
Saving; Time.
"Well." bawled the bill collector In the
hallway below, through the mouthpiece
pertaining to the occupant of the top
flat, "are you ready to settle that little
account? Will It be of any use for me
to climb the stairway? Why don't you
speak up?"
"Because, sir." answered a soft, gen
tle voice through the tube. "I am try- '
- Cnak down. No. it won't be of
any use." Chicago Tribune.