6
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. SEPTEMBER 20, 1908.
7
111" 1 CTO5FQnR1CtfA(-9PpA f
Distinctive Touches in Tailor-Mades
The tailor-made suit has reached that
point in the estimation of the average
woman that it Is her first purchase at the
opening of each season. She may indulge
in odd conceits or try experiments with
her blouse frocks, -which can be made
over, or refurbished, but when it comes
to the tailor-made in which she makes
her appearance on the street, this must
come from the hands of its maker ab
solutely correct to the smallest detail.
She will take no chances on cloth, de
sign or trimming.
The general tendency of the tailor
made suit this Fall is towards heavl
liesa and. alas, somewhat toward fussl-
ness. The mannish lines and cut have
dls&Dneared. save for storm suits and
hard-wear suits for business women.
The woman of leisure will And that the
smartest suit are all tailored In finish
only, being more elaborate than they
have been In years.
The clotha employed are very heavy
In appearance If not In actual weight.
The smooth, silky broadcloth, supple
and light weight, will be used only by
the daring few who Insist upon slm
i pltclty and slender proportion a. The
average shopper will fall Into line and
select one of the mixed, heavy looking
clotha These are not necessarily rough.
' but they are worm Is the most won
derful combinations of colors and pab-
terna Cloudy effects of all sorts pre
vail, and while stripes are much used,
they do not appear In the bold, direct
' weaves that we had during the Spring
and Summer. The darker stripe gives
the appearance of receding Into the
' background or melting Into the lighter
one. Among the popular combinations
along this line are black and leather
color, green and brown, prune and black.
a very rich magenta or a claret and
plum color also combined with black.
In fact, much dun. dark red. verging on
purple, is shown, in combination with
black, a combination, by the way, which
we have not seen since our grandmothers
wore It. More browns and greens are
shown in combination than the long popu
lar blue and green. As to plain colors,
I should say that leather and all tones
approaching it, such as yellowish-browns,
burnt orange, etc., will be extremely
fa.-hlonabic. likewise extremely trying.
Some of the new goods are woven
with borders, showing not stripes or dots
as they did in the Summer, but queer
conventional designs in dull colorings.
such as Persian or Arabian. Large In
visible checks and plaids In dark, rich
colorings are shown In various weaves.
but these are almost invariably overlaid
with black or some dull green or brown.
The subtlo coloring Is the thing, and It
Is a relief after the garishness of the past
Summer.
Braid will be used In great quantities
for trimming, also appliques of cloth out
lined by braid. Buttons are very large,
and collars and trimming on cuffs show
a marked return to velvet. The sleeves
are very elaborate, and the pear-shaped
armhole is in vogue.
Skirts vary tremendously. While there
is a pronounced movement against the
pleated skirt, an it was worn this past
eeason, unquestionably pleats in various
f'rms w ill appear on the new skirts. The
plain kilted skirt, however, has disap
peared, and certainly an skirts are longer.
r or shopping and all ordinary street use,
they barely escape the ground. For semi-
tailored costumes, suitable for calling.
cnurcn, etc.. trie skirt touches.
Four admirable models In tailored rat
ment are shown In the Illustration.
The first picture la a typical use of
striped material, peculiarly suited to
the tall, slender figure. The fabric Is
a soft English suiting showing green
ana Drown stripe, ine skirt is a per-
.ieciiy mtea princess pattern, cut almost
to reach the bust line. It fits snugly
about the waist and hips, then Just
above the knees shows inverted pleats
which give It the necessary flare. The
tine stripes In the skirt run around, and
the trimming consists of two graduated
bands of the same cloth with the stripes
running up and down. The long, loose
coat shows the vertical stripes, but In the
sleeves a modification of the kimono pat
tern, they run round. The front pieces
re set off by straps of the goods heavily
For a short woman all the striping must
run vertically and the bands around the
skirt should be braided.
The second figure selected shows a
smart combination of plain with striped
cloth, in a typical suit of the hour, tunic
and short-walsted cutaway coat. The
fabric is a French cloth, in black and
claret so mottled as to look simply a
very dark red at a distance. The trim
ming Is a striped cloth, in the same color
combination In more pronounced weave.
and black, subtly woven. The skirt is
a princess, cut with nine gores and a
shaped flounce. The latter is joined to
the upper section of the skirt as all the
seams are joined with a fine under bias
band of black broadcloth. The coat is
semi-fitting with a Louis cutaway effect
In the front, and seams all underlaid with
black broadcloth. The buttons are cov
ered with black cloth, ana the entire
effect is smart and simple.
The single coat shows what is being
were so arranged so as to look exactly
vertical, with no braiding and nothing but
a thin seam to show where they really
belonged. Then there were strapped
seams up and down tho back and aides
of coats until you couldn't rest.
Perhaps the merely incidental details
of men's dress might not have been so de
moralizing to all standards of taste and
good form if they had not indicated a de
sire on the part of the ready-to-wear
clothing makers to follow closely every
variation in cut, with the object of cre
ating if possible a new style for every
season In cut as well as in finish. ' So the
ready-to-wear garments have gone
through changes of the most radical
character.
There were shoulders so broad that the
padding stood out on them in easily dis-
Signs of Age That Can Be Obliterated
THIS Is the story of a woman who
at 44 discovered that she was looked
upon as "old," and how she turned
back the leaves of Tune. It Is a fine. ob
ject lesson, which every woman in the 40s
should read, especially mothers In moder
ate circumstances.
This woman had few domeetio worries.
Her three children were devoted to her,
and were approaching manhood and wo-
most contented woman, until one day,
her family was discussing a recent mar
riage in their social circle. A clever busi
ness woman of 43 had married a young
artist of 36, and dire results were predict
ed. Including an ignominious finish In the
divorce court. fc
"Why, just think, Mumsey," said the
youngest daughter, "she's as old as you
are."
The mother 6ald nothing, but that night
fid f-m
-at. 5kM
A
3
UP-TO-DATE SUGGESTIONS FOR TAILORED SUITS.
The gored skirt has a. pointed tunic, the
coat is extremely short-waisted in keeping
with the skirt, which runs up In a high.
fitted girdle effect, and the only trimming
on the coat consists of the striped ma
terial for re vers, collar and cuffs, and
huge buttons made of black silk braid
laid In coils.
The third figure portrays one of the
best designs in the Louis tailored suits,.
and such a combination. Louis lines with
tA-tlnrpri finish. In jt.nmx hln it nndrpftmd
braided In txreen soutache, which deslsrn of when tJInrlna- for woman came into
Is atno usd to outline the arm's eye I vogue.
and the finish of the three-o,uarter sleeve, I The fabric Is a mottled roods In leather
done with vesta In this Instance, a plain
leather colored vest finishes a coat of
black and leather color mixed, with heavy
trimmings of soutache braiding on the
plain cloth. The three-quarter sleeve is
the very latest cut, running from the
inside seam round to the elbow, while
the odd gore set Into Uie front section
is another new feature. In fact, nearly
all the new Jackets are distinctly fussy,
and the simple, plain straight lines are
not in high, favor. If the tailoring on
these oddly shaped garments is not per
fect, they quickly degenerate into shape-
lessness. . MARY DEAN.
Etiquette: The Young Man at the Wedding
I" HE receipt of a wedding Invitation
I thrills the young man with mixed
emotions. If he is socially experi
enced and Is perhaps one of the bridal
party, usher or beat man, be accepts his
role as part of his duty during the season.
lie knows there will be certain features
or the wedding ceremony and Incidental
entertaining which he wtil enjoy especial
ly if the bridesmaids are attractive girl.
In fact, it means little more to him than
an invitation to a dinner or dance, all
part of the social game.
But the busineaa man who goes in little
for society, but is socially or commer
cially connected with one of the contract
ing parties, likewise the young man Just
entering the portals of society, view the
S'luare envelope of creamy whiteness with
dubious sensation.
In reality, a wedding Is not a function
t, be dreaded by guests. It takes little
time and its euquette is extremely simple.
The ordinary guest who receives an In
vitation to a cnurch ceipmony does not
s mt a written reply. If. however, the
i-iviiation ceremony is performed at the
L:Uie's home or the cards to the church
Tt-nioi:y include one to the wedding
Ir.aktas; at the house, or the letters R.
V. p. are engraved in one corner, then
iijretst op acceptance must be sent to
i!; tir;rie's parents in whose names the
ln nations are issued.
if t'.ie ceremony is at home, followed by
a larse general reception, no acknowl
edgment s considered necessary, but the
man w ho cannot attend must post or send
by messenger cards that will arrive at the
house on the day of the ceremony, ad
dressing these to the parents.
The gift is always sent to the bride, even
though the guest may be the friend of the
groom. If jt ta silver and engraving Is
used, then the bride's initial, not the
groom's, is used. The gift may be for
warded any time after the Invitation la re
ceived, but at least a few days before the
. ceremony, to give the bride-perspective
time to make her acknowledgments.
The correct dress for men at noon or
afternoon weddings, either in the home or
church. Is gray trousers, black frock coat,
white or light fancy waistcoat, patent
leather shoes, white Hnen, gray gloves, a
four-ln-hand, or Ascot silk tie of light,
delicate coloring, and a silk hat. At the
church he carries his hat in his hand
down the aisle, with his overcoat over
bis arm. At the house he leaves overcoat
and hat and stick in the dresSing-room,
and removes the right glove or both be
fore entering the drawing-room.
guest is expected to arrive at either
house or church at least five minutes be
fore the ceremony, so that he will not
contribute to the confusion directly be
fore the entrance of the bridal party.
After the church ceremony, if he Is not
Invited to the wedding breakfast or recep
tion, he does not see the bridal - party
again. If Invited to the reoeption or
breakfast, ha makes his way in leisurely
fashion from church to house, leaves his
outdoor raiment in the dressing-room, as
is described above, then, entering the
drawing-room, congratulates the groom,
wishes the bride well, speaks a few pleas
ant words to the various members of the
bridal party who are helping to receive.
and also to the parents of the bride. If a
buffet breakfast or luncheon Is served, he
is then at liberty to mingle with other
guests and find his way to the dining
room, where refreshments will be served
by maids or waiters. At a general re
ception, the guest may slip away after
having paid his respects and partaken of
the hospitalities set forth. When the
wedding is' small and Informal, guests
generally remain and see the bridal couple
on". Sometimes after the departure of the
bride and groom, dancing Is enjoyed by
the young people.
Directly the newly married couple re
turn to town and send out cards giving
their nights or days at home, the man
who was a guest at their wedding must
plan to call on one or the dates named.
the sooner the more courteous.
PRUDENCE STAKDISH.
Plainer Attire for the Men
THE apt
to witi
of the
HE approaching season Is likely
tness a change In the policy
manufacturers of ready-to-
wear clothing, and it Is probable that
for at least a season or two they will
be somewhat more conservative In their
styles. The creation of exaggerated
modes with the idea of keeping up the
Impression that styles for men change
very season Just as feminine fashions
do has been pushed Just about as far
as It can be. The bounds of good taste
were passed long ago and the Inevit
able result was foreseen by skillful ob
servers, but nobody thought the game
would ever be overplayed to the extent
that It has been.
Tha most striking of the ready-to-
wear garments are now grotesque In
their finish on account of the effort
to make them appear different from
the models turned out the year before.
It Is not possible to fool enough of
the public all the time to make the
production of such freak clothing
profitable. Bo the garments put on the
market next year by the far-seeing
makers are likely to be free from such
faults.
One need only take the matter of the
finish of the sleeves of men's coats to
realize how far this desire for the un
usual has gone. It was not more than five
years ago that tho London tailors, whose
fashions remain the standard whatever
else may be said about them, began to
send over sack coats, overcoats and even
dinner coats with a narrow turned back
sleeve. This was regarded as rather strik
ing fashion in those days, but it was grad
ually adopted by well-dressed men here.
Among the best of the custom tailors It
has passed into a standard fashion. Cus
tomers may or may not like it. Just at
present, as a matter of fact, the cull is not
In favor. In any case it Is not regarded
as a matter of great Importance in the
make of a coat, but It was just the op
portunity that makers of cheap ready-to-wear
clothes were looking for.
They did not do a thing to that cuff.
They cut it broad and- they cut it narrow.
They put It on straight and they put it on
with a point; they braided It, they put a
button at the end of It and they played all
sorts of horse with It. They could in this
way give the retail salesman a chance to
say. "See the new style cuff. Just the
latest thing from London. All the best
dressed men In New York are wearing this
curt.
Then there was a temporary transfer of
attention to the pockets. They were cov
ered with flaps that buttoned down or they
were put in at such a slant thru it was
hard to get the hand into them. Then they J
tlnguishable lumps, and ooats so long
that they stopped only back of the knees.
Coats were cut down In front until they
were as low as a dress waistcoat, and
there was no end to the varied stunts that
were tried with the buttons. Some sack
coats closed with a dozen, while others
hod only one. Every vagary of an over
worked Imagination was described as the
last crv of real fashion in London.
All this originality and change of detail
in ready-to-wear clothing was something
new. The manufacturers until about
seven years ago confined themselves to
a certain standard and Inconspicuous cut
that did not possess striking features,
The novelties In men's dress were intro
duced always by high price custom tail
ors. Makers of the clothes turned out In
large quantity avoided fashions not
stable.
Their first departure from this rule
came when the short coats and ' loose
trousers suddenly were declared the
proper style. Certain firms entered Into
rivalry with the custom tailors who were
turning out these grotesque suits. They
were successful In. selling large num
bers of them and from that day the cus
tom made tailors have been slow In com
parison with the manufacturers in in
venting freak fashions to attract the at
tention of buyers and to keep up the de
luslon that the styles for men really do
change every season and there Is always
something new to be had.
That the so-called college element In
these fashions was emphasized shows to
what a youthful and unthinking kind of
public they were appealing. If It hap
pened that In the flush of youth and
good looks undergraduates and those
nearer a university than' a public school
and are, therefore, most enthusiastic pat
rons of everything of a collegiate charac
ter manage to look well In these freaks,
how did tho fat man of middle age ap
pear?
Now there is a sharp demand for the
freakless in dress and the makers who
meat It this Fall are going to have the
business. Just how much some such re
action was needed Is shown by several
of the preliminary fashions put out tenta
tively last month by manufacturers as
feelers to discover how they would go.
One showed a coat in a gray mixture
with a collar and cuffs In a solid gray.
and the same bit of sartorial sensational-
Ism was repeated in a brown, a light
green ad a blue suit, the collars and cuffs
being made- of a darker shade of the
goods.
Another effort to see how mnch the
public would stand was In the shape of
an ulster. In It the heavy turned back
cuffs and the broad collar were made in
another material altogether; that com
bined the prevailing color of the garment
with a black or white check. For In
stance, a brown ulster had the collar
and cuffs made of a check of brown and
white.
As if this were not freakish enough
for one season, a "Western manufacturer
put on the market a coat with a collar
made outof what looked like alligator
skin., altnough In reality it was a brown
cloth made to resemble alligator leather.
Waistcoats were also made of this ma
terial and so were cuffs of overcoats.
Compared with this the new style of
making the collars on coats of striped
goods is comparatively modest.
manhood in a very satisfactory, well
bred way. Her Income was comfortable
and permitted her to enjoy many small
luxuries. She could afford a Turkish bath
at regular intervals. She employed an
expert facial masseuse to keep her com
plexion In good condition.. She was able
to indulge a long-felt yearning for eilk
hosiery, and when she was tired and
wanted to make a round of calls she
could -hire a coupe.
She thought herself, on the whole, a
In the dark she thought It all out. She
had no business to look old, and If she
did not look old her daughter would not
Insinuate such a naive and telling com
parison. The next evening she went for a trol
ley car ride with her son, and turned
quite Irritable when she noticed how
carefully she was assisted from the car,
while the impatient conductor kept one
hand on the bell cord.
"I must be getting a touch of gout,"
she said sharply as she noticed how It
hurt her foot to press on the asphalt
paving.
'Now, don't begin to worry about your
health, mother," exclaimed her son. "You
known it Is Just, your years."
And that niht the woman lay awake
late, thinking hard and deep once more.
The next day she went to see a successful
woman physician.
"Sound as a bell," pronounced the doc
tor. "Not an organic defect in you any
where. You are merely paving the price
of Indolence. That isn't gout in your
foot. It's stiffness from lack of exercise."
My, how Indignant the mother of three
did turn!
"Why, Tve been a busy woman all my
life. My husband had a hard struggle
and I did all my own work "
"You did yes," interrupted the doctor,
"but now you do nothing that your
daughters can possibly relieve you of, be
cause they love you and serve you. The
muscles you once used so vigorously are
either flabby or stiff. You do not move
around enough to digest your food propi.
erly. All the ear-marks of age with you
are due. to the indolent life you lead.
You have earned your rest, but, my dear
woman, don't you take It, if you want to
remain youthful and a woman at 44
ought to be youthful in this day of ad
vancement In therapeutics."
The doctor laid down a few simple
rules, and the mother 'followed them.
First, she learned to leave the table with
the sensation that she was not quite sat- .
lsfled. She might eat a little more. Tiut
took away the flabby look over the ab
domen and hips and under the chin.
Second She walked in the fresh air
every day, starting with a mile and run
ning her record up to three miles.
Third She went all over the house
every morning and aired the beds, pick
ing up each mattress by the edge on one
side and turning It with a toss at least
four times. Then she shook and beat the
pillows; lifting them in the air above her
head. This was fine for the beds and also
reduced her abdomen, hips and waist '
measure, bringing her arms into better.
tapering curves, where they had beer.
heavy and beefy-looking.
Fourth She lay flat on her back in bed.
night and morning and kicked as vigor
ously as any ballet dancer ever did. Bight
times aha swung up her right leg until It
formed a right angle with the body, then
she repeated this eight times with the left
leg, alternated right and left on eight
counts and finished by raising both let's
vigorously on eieht counts. The Ilrst
morning she tried that, her legs ached so
that she had to rub them. Today she
can do the exercise 40 times and never
feel it.
Directly she could do the exercise with
ease when lying on the back, she stood
on the floor and KicKea out in ironc
until she could bring her leg at right
angles with her body. Finally she did
bending exercises. Standing erect with
her hands straight up in the air, the width
of the chest apart, and palms forward,
she would bend at the waist line until
her arms swinging forward, permitted t lie
finger tins to touch the floor. Not an
other exercise did she undertake, and she
is doing these yet.
After three months she has lost
pounds. She no longer suffer! with numb
ness in her hands and feet, ine settiea,
matronly look has practically disappeared,
and she moves lightly and quickly witn
a brave suggestion of her old girlish little
ness. Bhe took no mdlclne at all, ana
used for her complexion only a skin food
for fighting wrinkles, formula for which
I will be glad to furnish my readers on
receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope.
Her daughters were greatly exercised
over the experiment, and they do not like
to see their mother working as of old,
around the house, but she undertakes no
unduly heavy tasks, only those which
provide needed exercise. She told her
family she was getting indigestion. Not
for the world would she admit that she
had looked Old Age in the face and wept.
'But they are wondrously proud of her.
and I heard the elder girl tell a friend
recently: "Indigestion is such a dreadful
thinr Mother Is a different person since
Dr. Blank has treated her for stomach
trouble."
Bverr woman, however situatea, can
follow these simple directions. The -exercises
will cure that dragy feeling
when you wake in the morning. The
walks in fresh air will improve your
complexion. And your eyes will shine
again when you realize that you are
really getting the best of old Father
Time. KATHERINE MORTON.
Renewal of Neck Ruff in Pronounced Form
THE neck ruff in most pronounced
form will be one of the features
of Fall and Winter modes. This Is
sad news for the stout woman with
round face and short neck, hut it will
rejoice the heart of the thin, sharp
Braiding and
Vest Effect for the
Jacket.
Fall
featured woman to whom fussy neck
dressings are always becoming.
If you want to know what the real
ruff is, study a picture of Queen Eliza
beth, and then modify her enormous
ruffs to 'twentieth-centurV daintiness.
Make them soft and fluffy. Instead of
severe and starchy, and you will be
nearing the mark. Use thin, transpar-
nt stuff instead of severe starched
linens, or embroideries and laces, and
you will be distinctly., in fashion's
swim.
For earliest wear on the street, you
will And useful the net ruff, double
box pleated through the center and
finished with stiff ribbon bows. As a
sample, take a rich cream-colored net,
dot it with chenille or velvet, or even
silk or satin circles, edge with ribbon
velvet In varying widths, and fasten
snugly around the throat with a stiff
Jjow of ribbon. The long loops and ends
are little used.
How snugly these ruffs set can be
Judged from the fact that they come
In sizes. No. 14 up, just like collars.
For evening wear the ruff is gener
ally made of delicately tinted net or
chiffon, preferably the net, such as
cream, white, baby blue, palest pink,
corn-yellow, apple green, exquisite
shades of lavender, violet and mauve,
either in double box pleats or rose
pleating. . Between the rose pleatings
are caught delicate fronds of ostrich.
Again, the ruff is made of maribout,
interspersed with, ostrich fronds. And
a very lovely evening rulf shown at a
lingerie shop on Fifth avenue was
made of rich old Spanish lace, rose
pleated, with exquisite little moss roses
tucked here and there In the lace.
Later In the Fall, heavy silk, satin
and ribbon ruffs will be substituted
for the net and other filmy materials,
and In these Ottoman and heavily
figured silks will appear. The Ottoman
silk is heavily corded and comes in all
the rich colorings to match Winter
suitings. A ruff made of this stands
out briskly enough to suit Elizabeth
herself. When the figured silk is used,
it is generally in two tones of one
color, in fine stripes or dots, the only
exception being the Persian patterns,
or what might be described as the old
broche shawl patterns In silk. These
are made up very stiffly with a finish
of narrow velvet ribbon, matching In
hue the predominating color In the design.
For evening wear, you will also see
ruffs combining lace and fur, espe
cially rows of tiny fur heads running
through the center of the pleating and
used as a clasp In the front. But re
member that under no circumstances
must you bave floating ends or ribbons
of any sort.
The ruff also appears in the new em
broidered and lace neckwear for com
bination with house blouses. It Is not j
designed to wear under a coat, as In
fact It ruins the set of a well-fitted
jacket. So far, the smart neckwear
firms are showing the modified, ruff
1 only. Two widths of pleated ruching
are employed, the smaller about two
or two and a half Inches high, turning
upward and touching- the ears, the
wider anywhere from four to seven
Inches, turning downward and spread
ing out over the shoulders.
The upper and lower ruching are
joined by strips of embroidery or by
fancy ribbons to match the gown in
coloring. The embroidered strip is
preferable with plain fine linen or lawn
ruchings, or with those made from
hand or machine embroidery, in fact,,
any sort of wash material. But when
lace is used, the introduction of velvet
ribbon or a fancy Dresden or Persian
ribbon is very effective. These ruffs,
like the ones intended for outdoor use,
fit the neck snugly, and there Is no vis
ible opening back or front, the entire
throat being encircled. They have -unfortunately
taken the place of the
graceful stock and Jabot, and are very
trying to the average face.
MARY DEAN.
To Make Heavenly
Hash.
R
EMOVH carefully the rind, white
membrane and seeds from two- large.
choice sweet oranges, peel one large ba
nana, seed half a pound of Malaga
grapes, shred two slices of pineapple,
cut three apricots into. small cubes. The
above makes a very good combination,
but other fruits can be substituted. Mix
these together In a deep bowl and pour
over when cool a thick syrup made of one
pound of sugar and one cupful of water
boiled to the consistency of honey. If
convenient, prepare this fruit and syrup
the day before. Let It remain on the ice
until ready to use, then arrange in a
glass dish, sprinkle half a cupful of
chopped almonds and then three table
spoonfuls of freshly grated cocoanut on
top. Garnish with a few un hulled, fresh
berries reserved for this purpose. This
could be served either on dessert plates
with natural leaves forming a wreath
around the edges, or In tall stem glasses
set on - plates covered with lace nanar
doilies.