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TIIE . SUNDAY OREGOXIAX. PORTLAND. AUGUST 23, 1903
Matchless Blouses for the New Fall Gowns
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i i
m I T R davs when a combination of ti
I pally-colored waist and a somber
black skirt was fashionable are
paft and Bone. While the material of
the blouse need not be like the skirt. It
must match In color, and Is really a
part of the dress Itself. The day of the
pleated skirt Is decidedly over, and by
Fail It will he seen very little on the
woman of fashion. Pome conservative
tailors say. however, that the pleated
Fklrt will always be worn by a certain
type of woman presumably the tall,
thin type. But certainly the gored and
circular skirts are Just now riding on
the top wave of popularity.
One of the newest innovations In
blouse-trimmings is the frequent use
of silk tassels. The department stores
In large cities carry tassels In all col
ors, but those who cannot shop at such
places can make the tassels at home
with a heavy twisted silk, which can
be bought at the embroidery counter
of any small shop. For afternoon and
all dressy occasions, soft, clinging- ma
terials are used for matching blouses.
Heavy brocaded silk Is not appropriate
for a blouse, no matter how handsome
the material.
To make a coat suit really practical,
every woman should have two blouses,
matching It In color, but vastly differ
ent In texture, style and purpose. One
of the smartest of the advanced Fall
costumes was seen the other day In a
fashionable shop. It was of old blue
chiffon rloth, the skirt a four-gored
cut. and .the coat semi-fitted and In
three-quarter length. With this suit
were two matching blouses. The tai
lored blouFe. to wear mornings, for all
general street wear, and for short
week-end trips, was of Imported surah,
matching the cloth exactly in color. It
was made In the long straight pleated
effect, and trimmed only with tiny but
ton, covered with the same material.
The second blouse, for calling, mati
nees, etc., was of old blue liberty silk,
the exact shade of the suit. This was
elaborately Inset with Irish lace, soft
strands of the liberty silk being pulled
through the pattern of the lace, and
finished off with luxurious tassels
matching the blue of the material.
Figure A. shown today, would be a
smart model to follow for such a
blouse. It could be evolved from lib
erty silk, chiffon cloth, or a soft silk
net. If you cannot buy materials to
match your suit, then buy white or
cream, and have it dyed to match. The
Jong, mousquetalre sleeve In this model
is -liarming made up In soft materials
Irlh or Cluny lace should make the
bretelles and yoke. The woman who
has a pretty throat could eliminate the
high standing collar and cut the throat
out in the prevailing uutch -neck fash
Ion. The.blouse Is particularly becom
ing to the slender girl, as It give
breadth over the shoulders and fullness
over the bust.
Figure B Is a most practical model
for an odd tailored blouse. This model
ts so severe that It can be worked np
from even heavier materials than silk.
A lightweight F.ench tlannel or a soft
albatross would be a sensible material
for the girl who lives in a chilly cli
mate. This particular model was made
up In a heavyweight surah, which, by
the way. has been given great prefer
ence over taffeta, as It does not cut.
It was seen In a dull, London smoke
gray, trimmed with smoked pearl but
tons, i lie high Naziraovi collar was
detachable. It was made of heavy
Cluny lace and finished off at the neck
with a tiny bow of raspberry satin,
giving tone and distinction to an other
wise somber garment.
Figure C Illustrates the fashionable
kimono sleev. The one great hin-d-ance
to this sleeve Is that It binds
Hints on the
T
HERE are many sorts of dances.
but It seems to me mai nunc
presents to the young girl so
many embarrassing possibilities as the
hop given at a hotel or large club
house. The little dance given at home
on the piazza holds forth little to be
feared, and the small weekly dances
given by the town club have become
almost a home affair, but not so with
the formal hop.
So many girls think that if it Is
necessary to have a chaperon, the even
ing will be spoiled. This Is a grave
liii.-take. Let me say most strongly that
more evenings have been spoiled by
the absence of a chaperon than by the
presence of one. If a young man In
vites you to a dance at a hotel, you
need not take with you a chaperon, be
cause there will be many married
women at the hop who will act as gen
eral chaperones to one and all. But the
young man must Beck out one of these
married women and see that you are
duly introduced to her.
Hotel hops are of a semi-public order
and a young girl should not be the last
one to leave. Only those who reside
In the hotel should be found among the
last few stragglers. A man who asks
a girl to attend such a dance must meet
all expenses, and should exert himself
to ree that she has a delightful even
ing. He should always dance the first
and last dance with her, and take her
In to supper. If supper is not served
in connection with the hop, then dur
ing the evening he should ask her to
have some cooling drinks, and later to
have a bite to eat. If such Is the cus
tom of the hoteL
The youn man can dance with the
girl more tha.n twice, yet he should not
monopolize her to the exclusion of all
others. What I want to Impress upon
the escort is that his companion must
rot be allowed to become a dreaded
"wall flower."
kTach year finds the 8ummer girl be
coming more sensible In her dress.
Gowns for an evening dance should
juft clear the floor, and a dainty
lingerie dress is always In good form.
At very formal dances white gloves are
worn, but at nine out of ten Summer
hops gloves are discarded after the
flrsi few minutes In the room. If you
wesr a trained dress, then make sure
that .von have on a dainty petticoat.
Hold the dress up so that It clears the
ground, but do not hold up the petti
coat. The girl who goes to a dance and Is
missing from the room for an hour at
a time, only to be found in a cozy cor
ner with a man. Is acting decidedly in
bad form. This does not mean that it
ts nhsolutely necessary to dance every
dar.ee and all the time. But it does
mean that 3poonlng on the piazza of a
public hotel is decidedly tabooed by
Mrs. Grundy. And I regret to say that
It is a common evil of the mid-Summer
dance.
When It comes time to go home at
the end of the dance, let the young girl
FIG. A. LIBERTY SILK
the free use of the arm, and for this
reason it le only practical for the idle
girl. The girl who uses her arms
freely will rind this sleeve a decided
drawback. This blouse was made of
what Is known as Sappho silk a soft
silk with a high luster, on it. which
costs about a dollar a yard. The color
was a dull cage green, and the striped
collar, cuffs and belt were of a green
and white taffeta silk. The tie at the
throat was of soft green ribbon, a
shade darker than the material in the
blouse. And let me say Just here that
all colors this coming season are In the
dull, faded tones. Nothing that is
smart Is vivid; all the imported ma
terials have a faded tone to them.
Figure D shows a severely tailored
blouse. It requires about four yards
of silk of average width to make a
blouse of this character. If the blouse
Is of a large size and the silk rather
narrow, then five yards is safer. The
dickey la separate. This makes a
very neat and economical blouse for
Etiquette of the
seek out one or two of the married
ladles and bid them good-night. When
this is done, do not stand on the stairs
and gossip with this, girl, stop an In
definite length of time in the dressing
room chatting with another, or dally
for an hour or bo In other ways. Once
you have said good night, stand not on
the order of going, but go.
So many girls write to me and
'Shall I thank the man?" To all of
them I say. most assuredly. It would
be impossible for me to tell each one
what to say. but surely there are hun
dreds of grateful little speeches which
any girl can make. Tell the man
franklv that you have enjoyed your
self, and that it was awfully nice of
him to think of you. Don't gush, but
be honest.
It would be most difficult for me to
lapr down a hard and fast law telling
young men what to wear at a mid-Summer
hop. This is a matter settled by
local custom. I have been at small
hotel hops where the young men ap
pear In sack suits; others where the
men were seen In Tuxedo coats and
black ties. Of course, the strictly
proper evening dress for a man Is the
swallow-talf coat, white waistcoat,
white tie and white gloves, but women
are inclined to be lenient with men in
the Summer, and men are prone to Im
Aprons for Various Uses
IT has been said by some old wiseacres
that many a man's restless eye has
been captured by the sight of a dainty
apron, and after that the capture of his
heart has been an easy task. Whether
this be true or false, certain It is that
aprons are again being worn by the
housewifely girl, and many dainty ones
are to be seen In the up-to-date shops.
One of the newest developments Is
known as the lap apron. This consists
of a perfectly square piece of soft white
goods, hemmed all around. When fin
ished It is about the size of a large silk
handkerchief. At the four corners or
rather In about four Inches from each
point, are sewn tiny celluloid rings, and
ribbon is run through these. The purpose
of this apron is to hold your fancy work
and when you get up you simply gather
up the ribbons which are run through
the rings, and your work, your apron
and little bag are all in one.
Chafing dish aprons are another inno
vation. These are made of linen rather
than any other material. To be very
smart the edges should be buttonholed,
not hemmed, and. of course, there must
be a bib of rather spacious dimensions.
On each corner. of the apron and in the
center of the bib a tiny rabbit Is em
broidered In white floss. The eyes should
be done In pink or 'red floss. Some of
these aprons are made of table damask.
BLOJJSE WITH TASSELS.
general wear: and the neckpiece can
be made of wash material and washed
whenever soiled the least bit- Tucked
organdie, embroidered batiste, or heavy
aliover lace make practical dickeys.
Figure E shows a very full model on
the favorite kimono lines. The gulmpe
can be made of matching or contrast
ing material, preferably the latter.
This model was seen In louisine silk,
with the tucks run In by hand. The
neck and armholes were outlined with
a filet lace, dyed to match the material,
a shade of the golden tan. The square
yoke was of cream-colored Cluny,
while the sleeves were made of the
matching silk, finished off with a cuff
of the dyed filet lace Insertion.
Let me also Impress upon you not
to wear old belts with fancy blouses.
Whatever your skirt material is, have
made a tiny stitched belt of It. Noth
ing will mar an otherwise smart cos
tume as much as a belt that has no
connection with either the skirt or the
blouse. MARY DEAN.
Summer Hop
pose upon the good nature of the
women. Hence, one is apt to see a
variety of garments on the men at' a
mid-Summer dance. If a man dresses
as the majority of others do, at least
he will not be conspicuous.
Very young girls who are not yet
formally out should not be seen at a
hotel Jiop. Many girls in their teens
are allowed to go to informal dances
given by their girl friends, but only
the girl who has finished school and Is
ready for a social campaign should be
seen dancing In the public parlors of a
hotel. Many Indulgent mothers with
two daughters say, "It Is not fair to
let Mary go to everything and keep
Stella always at home." As a matter
of fact, the rule works the other way.
Mary, being t?ie elder, is ready to go
out to public places, and In time Stella
will have her turn. The girl who Is
allowed to go out to such places when
she is 16 will be regarded as "an old
girl" when she Is really Just ready
to start her social life. And she can
never live It down. Those who have
seen her dancing at Summer hops for
several seasons will tell you, "Why,
she must be 25, for she's been com
ing to these hops ever since I can re
member." Take my word for it, you
of the younger set, it does not pay.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
such as is used for ordinary tablecloths,
but plain linen Is preferable.
For a dainty apron and yet one that is
very serviceable, there la nothing better
than a good quality of dotted Swiss. The
dot in the goods seems to be a trimming
In Itself, and hence aprons of this ma
terial need little to beautify them. Most
of these fancy aprons have pockets. Not
quite so liberal in size as the schoolboy
pocket, but a tiny Htt!e pocket for a
handkerchief or a thimble and a spool
of thread.
For the more prosaic aprons it has late
ly been discovered that work aprons
made of a light weight blue and white
ticking are filling a long-felt -want. This
goods is heavy and for the woman who
has to wash her own dinner dishes and
be near a sink, they are invaluable. They
are not esally wet. and do not soli readily
on account of the twill in the goods.
' Clothespin aprons are another time
saver along practical lines. These are
made of blue denim. They should be
made to reach the knee only and the
binding should be of the same material,
with a stout strap to go about the waist.
Then another fciece of the denim Is
stitched on the apron, coming about half
way up, and this Is stitched down the
middle, forming two large pockets. The
clothespins are carried in these pockets,
thus saving a woman from running back
and forth looking for the pin basket, and
holding four or Ave pins In tier mouth,
as she hangs up articles of clothing.
Aprons with straps over the shoulders
FIG. E. FANCY BLOUSE WITH GUIMP.
Fig. B. Tailored Blouse In Surah
Silk,
are for the maid In service only. An
elderly person often likes to wear a
black silk apron; for this these is no
better goods than a good quality of peau
de sole, for this will stand many wash
ings. On dainty aprons It Is well to sew
beading instead of the regulation bind
ing and strings. This beading should be
about an Inch In width and wash ribbon
should 'be run through iL This ribbon
serves for strings and at the same time
lends to the beauty of the apron. The
ribbon can be slipped out when the
apron is soiled. It can then be pressed
out, freshened up and replaced when the
apron has returned snowy white from a
visit to the tub. MARY DEAN.
Close Second to Needle,
The needle is not the only implement
required in the making and keeping of
clothes. A flatiron Is a close second.
The tailored skirt, especially, ie "in
constant need of being pressed. .
The pressing of a eult requires some
skill but more patience and care.
In the case of a pleated skirt, flr:f
baste in place each pleat its entire un
stitched length with fine cotton;
coarse thread will leave its imprint
after pressing.
When a skirt Is put over the padded
board, place a chair or small table be
neath it to lift the skirt to prevel
stretching.
N Provide two hot Irons heavy irons
are best and cover the portion to be
pressed with a piece of double un
bleached muslin thoroughly wet.
-Do not "Iron." but literally "press,"
lifting the iron from place to place
rather than rubbing it over the sur
face. The iron should not be allowed
to remain too long In one place, or 11
will leave its imprint. ,
The seams of coats and sleeves may
be pressed over a broomstick which has
been evenly padded and covered with
muslin.
lecorated Velvet Bands.
The band of black velvet, which Is
again so popular, is sometimes adorned
by cunningly devised embroidery, which
adds color to the somber black.
Often the band is decorated with a
trailing vine with tiny blue or pink
flowers; then, again, it is adorned with
a design worked out in beads of glass
and china.
When milady is in mourning she
wears a taffeta' band embroidered In
dull jet beads. For evening wear the
velvet band may be embroidered with
rhinestones. " For afternoon dresses
light glass beads or ribbon are artistic
ally arranged upon the velvet.
Of course, the colors, when there are
any, should always match the dress or
the trimming thereof, unless the dress
be white. Then the imagination may be
put Into play to devise a combination
of beautiful pastel shades.
llif.i"
Fig. D. Double-Breasted Blouse.
Coach Covers
for Infants
Many charming coach covers may
be knit for babies and embroidered
with wide .soft satin ribbon through
the stitches. The ribbon when
stretched to full width, makes the
petals of large daisies, or It may be
made in, & wall-of-troy design. Some
times a white knit cover may be em
broidered with white satin ribbon, the
loops arranged so that they always
return to the center, making the five
petals of a flower. In. the middle, to
hide the Joining, a small rosette of
yellow baby ribbon may be placed so
that the whole forms a perfect daisy.
A pink zephyr cover may also be em'
broldered in this way or one might
make little pink rosebuds on a white
cover. The best way to knit a cover
for such work is to use a three-ply
yarn and large wooden needles, using
the plain knitting stitch or the shell
or etar stitch. All of these are firm
enough to hold the ribbon. The loops
must not in any way pull on the
stitches, for it Is not necessary that
they should be tight.
A very attractive cover may be made
by crocheting in a tight stitch five
stripes, three of pink and two of
white; then with French embroidery
ribbon make a sort of flowing design
on the white stripes tiny forget-me-nots
and long green vines or little
pink rosebuds. The stripes are then
all Joined together with a single cro
chet stitch, pink and white alternating,
while the edge may be finished with
shell and pieot. When the. covers are
embroidered in the French or wash
ribbon" it is not necessary to pull out
the embroidery when it goes to the
tub. However, when wide satin rib
bon Is used it is, of course. Impossible
to wash It except in gasoline.
The beauty of such work Is that
when a mistake Is made the ribbon
may be pulled out, leaving no trace.
The rows and stitches In knitting or
crocheting mark off the space, so that
a drawn design Is unnecessary. It Is
easy enough to count off a certain
number of stitches from the central
point to mark the edge of the petals.
Rainproof Silk.
A new material on the market is a
showerproof foulard a light silk so
prepared that the sudden rain storms
will not hurt it. It is foretold as a
great favorite for Summer clothes, for
nothing Is so unpleasant as having to
carry an umbrella, and when one can
depend upon her dress resisting the
soaking Summer rain It will not be
necessary to ' venture forth prepared
for storm. This new material Is shown
In almost every color, castor brown
and gray being especially good. They
are arranged In the regular foulard
designs. The Idea is decidedly new, and
In time we expect to have every dress
material rainproof.
FIG. C FASHIONABLE
Treatment of Discolored Necks
THE fashion of wearing the collarless
blouse has brought with it a double
trouble to the up-to-date woman.
For one thing. It exposes the sensitive
skin of throat and neck to wind and dust,
making It coarse from constant exposure.
At the same thne. it lays bare to sight
the ugly black rim about the throat
caused by wearing the tight, high collars
of last year. The skin of throat, neck
and chest will show lack of care more
quickly than that of any other part of the
body. '
If you have this ugly black streak about
your throat, your first treatment must be
towards eliminating it. Cold water will
stand you In little stead; the neck should
be washed with warm water, into which
a few drops of bezoin has been added.
This done, you should exercise the neck
until a free perspiration appears, then
again bathe It in warm water, and apply
the following lotion, letting It dry on the
neck:
Boric acid, 1 drachm; distilled witch
hazel, 2 ounces; rosewater, 2 ounces.
So many women write to me and say,
"How can you exercise the neck?" This
is simple enough. Bend the head back
and forward and from side to side, and
you will soon bring on a perspiration. If
you have first opened the pores by a
warm bath. Or you can take a small
Turkish towel and rub the neck freely
with it. The idea Is to open the pores
so that the bleaching lotion will give
quicker results. This treatment should be
given every night until the streak disap
pears. The work of keeping the skin soft, and
white should be done at night. If you
have been out in the air, with sun and
wind beating against your throat all day,
then apply cold cream before you wash
the neck. This loosens the duet, when the
neck should be wiped off with a bit of
old linen. If you are averse to using cold
cream, a very good emollient can be made
at home. Take the white of one rawegg.
and beat it to a very stiff froth so stiff
that It can be turned upside down on the
platter and not fall. Then put it into a
bowl and add an equal quantity of pure,
sweet almond oil. Rub this mixture on
the neck with old linen, wipe off with a
clean cloth, and then wash with soap and
water.
If the neck is tanned and discolored all
over by this I mean has no distinct
stteak. but is simply a muddy color all
over I advise the following bleach: Five
grams of powdered borax, five grams of
tincture of benzoin, ten grams of spirits
of camphor. 100 grams df pure rosewater.
Shake the ingredients well until thor
oughly mixed, and mop the neck with the
lotion, letting it dry on.
This lotion can be used twice a day. at
night and after the morning bath. After
the morning bath, apply the lotion and
then dust the throat with a pure powder.
Massage will fill out the ugly hollows
of the neck, and also distribute the lump
of fat which often appears at the nape of
the' neck. This latter trouble often gives
to a girl a very round-shouldered appear
ance. It Is not difficult to massage your
own neck. Cold cream, or the egg and
almond oil lotion,, should be applied gen
erously, and the massaging done in a
rotary motion. By this I mean not to
scatter the fingers over a round surface,
but to dress down the flesh, and roll or
rub. so that you cause the ftesh to stir
over the cords in a circular -motion. Keep
on with this treatment until the whole
throat has been covered. Then apply the
bleach, which is also somewhat of an
astringent.
Many women are afflicted with a goiter,
and tills, of course, shows very plainly
when wearing a Dutch neck frock. This
can be cured in Its infancy, and perhaps
the most successful treatment yet discov
ered for it is electricity. However, If a
goiter Is of long standing and has Its set
tled growth, there is little hope of a cure.
Mothers vio see signs of goiter in any
of their children should have it treated
by a physician at once, and not waste
time with home cures or advertised pat
ent remedies.
One of the most valuable assets of the
modern toilet table is the much-abused
lemon. It Is perhaps as effeclive a bleach
as can be found. Cut the lemon in half
and rub the pure juice directly upon the
throat after bathing In warm water. Let
the lemon juice dry on. If this treatment
is too vigorous, than the following lotion
may be found effective: Take two heap
ing,, tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, add to it
one quart of cold water, let come to a
boil and boil ten minutes. Cool and
strain through, a piece of cheesecloth, and
KIMONO BLOUSE.
to the liquid add the Juice of two lemons
and a tablespoonful of alcohol. Apply
this with a cloth, not wiping it away.
Warts are very apt to appear at the
base of the neck, and are most unsightly
with the collarless blouse. Getting rid
of them is a very simple task. Many of
them can be tied about tightly .with a
silk thread, and In a few days will liter
ally rot off. Again, many women hav
successfully used the sticky milk taken
from the mild-weed plant, applying sev
eral times a day. Warts have also been
removed by constant applications of wet
salt. If the wart Is stubborn and will not
yield to this simple treatment, then the
following pomade can be used, .but first
make sure that it la a wart, pure. and
simple, and not some other complicated
growth: One ounce of soap cerate; 1
drachm of powered savin, and 1 drachm
of powdered verdigris. Spread this on a
pleqe of old kid or chamlos, cut In a lit
tle round piece Just the size of the wart,
and keep It on over night. Repeat . If
necessary. KATHERINE MARTIN.
TomatoRecipes
Fried Tomatoes Put a large table
spoon of butter in a hot saucepan and
when the butter is thoroughly heated
add to it a finely chopped green pepper
and a tablespoon of finely chopped
onion. Let this cook until quite ten
der. Take out and put in a bowl to
keep hot until needed. Add a little
more butter to the pan, and lay In thick
slices of firm tomatoes which have been
rolled in Indian meal. Fry Drown on '
both sides and place on a platter, cov
ered with the pepper and onion .sauce.
Tomatoes and Eggs This makes a
delicious luncheon dish. Cook six eggs
until they are very hard boiled. Peel
them and keep warm as possible. Make
a sauce as follows: A tablespoon of
butter and a tablespoon of flour, mixed
with one cup of tomatoes. Add to this
one green pepper minced very fine, one
tablespoon of parsley chopped very
fine and salt to taste. Have ready six
slices of toast. Wheat bread Is de
licious for this toast if you have It If
no the white will answer. ToaBt the
bread a golden brown and butter. On
each piece of toast put one hard-boiled
egg, and pour the sauce over it.
Tomato Jelly Take- enough toma
toes to equal a quart, run them through
a seive and add enough sugar, salt,
pepper and onion Juice to flavor to
taste. Dissolve one-fourth box of gela
tine In a little water, add to the toma
toes and cook together until well
mixed. Remove from tne fire, pour into
small cups and set away on ice to
harden. When perfectly cold turn out
on lettuce leaves and serve with may
onnaise dressing.-. . This salad can be
made extremely pretty by putting
chopped olives through it and In the
bottom of each cup a thick slice of
hard-boiled egg.
Tomato Croquettes Two large cups
I of tomatoes, two eggs, two tablespoos
i of butter and salt and pepper to taste.
' Mix thoroughly and then add enough
I bread crumbs to make a paste thick
1 enough to fry. Drop by the tablespoon
! ful into boiling hot lard and fry brown.
Serve Immediately on a platter garn
ished with cress or parsley.
Vacation.
Romervllle Journal.
Th tn Is the glad, vacation time,
When dainty Doria rests.
She's staying at a beach hotel
With som alx hundred gueata
She golfs and awlma and drlvea and walks
All day without a atop.
And every night ahe fllrla till twelve.
Or dancee at a hop.
She's having Just a quiet tlma
To rent her tired hraln.
Her work all through the college year. -
You know, was atK'i a strain!
But now she's resting gaining strength.
As all glrla ought to do.
She a up earn day at eight o'clock.
And gets to Bleep at two!
How pleased Is vacation, when
Your brain la tired out.
To rest your nervea and give you ealm
nd make you atrong and atout!
And Dorla will return refreshed.
Her brown eyea bright and clear.
To look ahead to peaceful days . ..
Of reat another yearl .