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HADR02. AIT AUCKLAND
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BT JAMES EICALTON.
A
KTER rao Pago, followed t.y a
voyace cf several thousand
miles in tropical seas, the lanKee
bluejackets will experience a homecom
ing exuberance of spirits when they en
ter the seaport of Waitamatn. as the
harbor of Auckland is often called; for
they will be asam among a kindreu peo
ple speaking their own language.
They will then be about S7 degrees
south of the equator and in the South
ern Hemisphere, and although more Ulan
a third of the distance froift the equa
tor to the South Pole, they will be in a
climate corresponding to Northern Italy.
They found the harbor of Honolulu
hemmed In by grim old craters; here they
will find the splendid harbor of Auck
land and the old capital of New Zealand
surrounded by more than 6D extinct globe
chimneys, not grim and somber like those
in the Hawaiian elyslum. but green to-
their summits and set In the midst of
fertile plains dotted with suburban vil
las. On their first shore leave they will
no doubt land at Queen street pier, near
which the ocean liners have their docks
and at which intercolonial and coasting
boats arrive. If the men of, our fleet
have been under the impression that New
Zealand is an unimportant South Sea
Island and that Auckland is an insignifi
cant seaport town, the busy and exten
sive maritime hurly-burly at the Queen
Ftveet pier will tend to dispel their- in
competent geography; the forest of masts,
tall chimneys and towering warehouses
will announce a large city, and they will
see a harbor filled with ships from all
, parts of the world. One may realize
that New Zealand is something more im
portant than is Implied by an Australian
island when It is stated that the three
main islands extent more than 1200 miles
north and south and that the most north
ern Is larger than the State of New
York, and that the second or middle isl
and Is larger than the State of Illinois,
that the member of the group outstrips
the stunt member of the American Union,
"Little Rhodle.-" by 1000 square miles.
Their extent may bo better understood
when It Is stated that the three Islands
are only a triOe less In area than the
three constituting Great Britain, and
from their corresponding number and
area might appropriately have been called
New Britain instead of New Zealand
(New Sea Land). With a fertility equal
to that of the mother country and a su
perior climate, along with many much
extolled Ideals in government, one won
ders why the population should remain
so sparse. Many lines of fast steamers
to and from have made time and dis
tance Inconsiderable, yet the population
of the three islands falls below that of
one of our smallest states. To account
for this fact is difficult, unless it be the
unwillingness of migrants to go far away
from world centers.
Like most modern cities Auckland has
fine, broad streets, on which electric cars
rush along; Imposing public buildings,
parks, museums, libraries and theaters;
but these are' to be seen In every city,
and a newcomer Is looking for something
unusual, something peculiar to the coun
try. What will he find in New Zealand?
The primitive inhabitants are among
the most interesting things In any part
of the world visited for a first time.
The Maoris are the aborigines of New
Zealand, and the country still contains
some 40.000 or 50,000. The visitor in
Auckland will not be long on the
streets before he will meet a dark-vis-i-.ged
type which is most likely to be a
Maori, whom he will more readily iden
tify, having seen the Kanaka of Hawaii
and the S-amoan. They are considered
y be of Malayan origin, and their tra
ditions say they came from an Island
i ailed Hawaikl; and this word so much
corresponds with Hawaii, or Savaii, of
the Samoan group, as to warrant the
conclusion of their having come, within
the last few hundred years, from those
islands; and' this conclusion Is appar-
THLBOYyi GREAT HILT
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ONE CF THE
rtWE KIAORJ
CIRLfrS OF
ently confirmed by an affinity of lan
guage and by a similarity of mental
and physical characteristics. Many of
them are now seen in the towns and
engaged in commercial pursuits like
the Europeans. They formerly prac
ticed tattooing, but the habit is disap
pearing with the' incoming of European
ways. An occasional deeply tattooed
face may still be seen when an old chief
visits Auckland with some of his mod
ernized descendants, as was the case
when the writer secured the picture
shown of a tattooed chief besides his
daughter and his two grandchildren.
The Maoris had no written language
before the mislsonarles made one for
them.' A hundred years ago they were
savages. Now there are excellent Maori
college graduates. Maori gentlemen
own ships and speak the best London
English. They are a merry, open-hearted
people, like the Hawaiians and the
Samoans. The Kanaka salutes you
with "Aloha," the Samoan with "Talo
fa" (both salutations signifying "love
to you"), and the Maori, without the
formality of an Introduction, will greet
you with "Ten-a-koe" (that's you), em
phasized if you like by the nasal salute
known as rubbing noses; but rubbing
noses, too, has given way to handshak
ing In all but "way-back" Maori com
munities. Near the landing pier in Auckland the
newcomer may see large warehouses
with the unusual sign or notice, "Kauri
Gum," or "Kauri Gum Merchants." This
attracts the attention because gum-digging
is a rare occupation. Primeval
forests of great extent once covered
large portions of the northern island of
New Zealand; they were forests of con
iferous trees, pine trees (Demraa Aus
tralia), or Kauri pines; some of these
trees still exist and are used for lum
ber; they are not unlike the California
big trees and often eight or nine feet
in diameter. The ancient gum-producing
forests have mostly disapeared, and
the gum from them has accumulated
in lumps In the earth, often five or
six feet beneath the surface. Gum pros
pectors traverse the gum regions of the
north island for gum. This curious In
dustry might be called gum mining. The
lumps of gum vary In size from one
pound to fifty. Prospecting is done by
using a slender steel rod from six to
eight feet in length, which Is thrust
into the earth, and when It comes Into
contact with gum a grating sound or
sensation locates gum, when digging
is commenced. The gum Is sent In
sacks to the warehouses In Auckland,
where it is scraped, assorted and clas
sified, then boxed and shipped to Eu
rope and America for varnish making.
In the course of mllleniums and under
different chemical conditions these great
accumulations of gum would have be
come vast deposits of amber, which Is
only a mineralized resin.
Kauri gum diggers, I was told, are
mostly scapegraces and fugitives, who
follow this occupation because gum fields
are in remote and unfrequented regions
which offer good hiding places. This fact
accounts for the absence of a picture to
show gum digging. The writer tried
every persuasive of "tip" and tongue to
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, AUGUST 9, 1903-
They- "Will
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secure one, but in vain. One gum mer
chant in Auckland told me his shipment
of Kauri gum to one varnish-making firm
In Brooklyn amounted to several hun
dred tons annually.
The traveler will find the scenic fea
tures of New Zealand Improve as he pro
ceeds southward until he reaches a cul
mination of majesty in the fjords and
mountains of the southeast coast. It is
a thermal district, 120x30 miles in extent,
abounding in all the phenomena of a
geyser basin and surrounded by lakes and
mountains. It is called Rotorua, It Is a
health resort on account of its thermal
and mineral' springs ; It Is the most fre
quented tourist's resort on account of
Its geysers and varied lakes and moun
tain scenery. The lakes abound in trout
which make it a sort of Waltonia for
devotees of the rod and reel. Before
reaching Rotorua the train stops at a
small station In a partially cleared moun
tain, district; at this place Maoris offer
for sale something which will greatly In
terest the entomologist it is a "vegetable
caterpillar, that is,' a caterpillar ' which
has become a plant, paradoxical as It
may appear. Bishop Butler would .have
gloried over this caterpillar for his "An
alogy," In which he refers to the trans
formation of a caterpillar Into a butter
fly as no more wonderful than and being
analogous to the emanating of the spir
itual from the material, but in the case
of the New Zealand larva it is the
change from an animal substance into a
vegetable, from a caterpillar (hairy cat)
into a plant; but when explained there Is
nothing supernatural; the larva feeds on
the leaves of a vine which grows on tall
trees in this particular locality; In eat
ing the leaves the microscopic seed of
the vine is sometimes eaten and when
the larva burrows in the ground for its
Jchange of form the seed may happen to
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yV THEEMAL BATH. .AT ROTORUA
-NEW ZEALAND
dies, and the vegetable growth takes
the exact form of the caterpillar, much
as an infiltration of mineral substance
takes the form of the animal or vegetable
in petrefaction. The skin and form
of the caterpillar are unchanged, but the
interior becomes -a solid piece of vege
table pulp like that of a potato, and a
slender stem from six to ten inches high,
bearing terminal seed spores, grow up
out of the earth from either or both
ends of the vegetating caterpillar, so
that the substance of the caterpillar has
been changed into that of a plant, and
the paradox is no paradox. It is only a
unique example of the universal ex
change that goes on between animal and
vegetable life.
At Rotorua the visitor will find ex
tensive bathing establishments mod
ernly equipped, and thermal baths of
all temperatures, of all sensations, and
with all kinds of curative properties,
especially when there Is no shortage in
faith. The Rotorua thermal region is
evidently geologically very old and the
geyser activity is apparently waning.
The chief geyser in action la a mile or
two from the town of Rotorua at
Whakarewarewa, a Maori village where
at intervals of a few days you may see
several small geysers play to a height
of 16 or 20 feet. One is reputed to
spout from 80 to 100 feet when it has
an inclination that way, which is seldom
unless it be persuaded 'with several
bars of soap; but then its waning en
ergies are so conserved that soap lu
brication is not permitted save for the
advent of some high and mighty Gov
ernment fnctionary; therefore one's
chance of seeing a. fine geyser display
Is rare. There are, however, besides
the geysers the usual accompaniments
of thermal activity, thermal cooking by
the natives, thermal bathing, thermal
washing, and thermal vapors rising
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from many points over the plain and
sulphur fumes with suggestions for
some people.
Two Maori maids have been acting
as guides for many years; they are sis
ters Maggie and Bella Papakura and
are well-known to all who have ever
visited Rotorua. They are well-educated
and said to, be wealthy. Maggie,
the elder, has traveled abroad; she
owns a pretty native cot in the center
of Whakarewarewa; it contains a fine
piano and she relates w.th pride how
Paderewski visited her home and
played on her piano.
The Maoris at "Whaka" (as the place
is called for short, and it truly needs
shortening) have erected a native hall
or assembly room, in which at stated
times they hold entertainments for the
amusement of visitors. The "pol dance"
and the "war dance" are the usual
roles In which they appear. In both
they execute a series of rythmic mo
tions and grimaces to the music of an
accordion. The motions are graceful,
but the facial contortions are repulsive.
The Maoris are fond of the hot ther
mal bath, and many times a day in
cold weather they may be seen Im
mersed in the hot waters. The ther
mal bath Is their stove in cold weather.
It is curious to see a Maori cook
standing by a thermal cooking-hole
holding fast to several atrings, at the
end of each is some article of food
undergoing the necessary cooking proc
ess. Should you wish to witness or
experience a Maori salute, either "Mag
gie" or "Bella" will cheerily inflict a
personal demonstration.
i
New Zealand is a mountainous coun
try, and the rugged character increases
toward the south. The mountains vary
In altitude from 1000 feet sto Mount
Cook, the sovereign of New Zealand
SEE
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peaks, with an elevation of 12,349 feet.
No traveler can know the grandeur of
New Zealand's scenery unless he visits
the Milford Sound region in the south
west, where the coast Is broken up
Into a maze of sounds, and the valleys
are blocked with stupendous glaciers.
The southwest coast much resembles
the fjord-locked coast of Nor.way, and
A Plan to Measure Intelligence
D
R. VAN BIERVLEET, the .Dutch
psychologist, has, tetter long years
of research, come to the conclusion
that the intelligence can be measured,
and that because it depends upon
mental application and reflection, Its
"variant" can be found among all sorts
and conditions of men. . Here is the
argument he advances In support of his
novel theory:
The most complex intellectual opera
tions are all reducible to a ratioci
native process which depends for the
results it gives on the soundness of the
nervous system and its fineness. You
cannot, for example, get from a 'cello
the effects which are to be obtained
from the violin, the reason being ex
plained by the fineness of the strings.
Although in their specific qualities the
notes extracted from either Instrument
may be supreme, there can be no ques
tion that in far-reaching effect that of
the more delicate instrument immeas
urably exceeds the other. An almost
Identical process takes place with the
mind, the superior mental organism be
ing that which is composed of most
nerve-cells, or, as we should say, which
is most highly strung. In projecting Its
attention or ratioclnatlve power upon
any given question which requires rea
soning out the will simply calls upon
its supply of cerebral nerve-cells.
Naturally, eays the New Tork World,
ine more there are of these the greater
and more effective will be the "train
ing" of the intelligence upon the sub
ject under consideration.
Now,' a fairly approximate gauge of
the power of the nervous system can
be obtained either from the sharpness
of hearing or the sharpness of sight,
says Van BiervieeL Take a dozen in
telligent persons and you will find that
the most intelligent among them are
those who best apply their senses of
hearing and seeing, the sense of touch
being about equal in all normally con
ditioned persons. The effect of a given
m
ALAND
SCE1ZE ATT
OUEEHST, "P1EK,
portions of It are still unexplored; yet
these enchanted places are visited by
excursion steamers throughout the
Summer season.
New Zealand has a rich and varied
agriculture, a grandeur of scenery
rarely surpassed, an ideal climate, a
solid, conservative government. She
is entitled to fuller population and to
a great share of the world's travel.
"The climate's delicate, the air most
sweet,
Fertile the isle."
incident upon a spectator, or of a state
ment upon a hearer, can bo estimated
from the number of images which are
created in the sensorial apparatus. In
the mind winch is capable of most con
centration and, consequently, capable
of exertir.g the most intelligence, these
images will succeed each other in a
logical order, and will be all closely
related to each other. In the mind
which is least intelligent, and In which
the reasoning process is casual and
haphazard, the images will be diffuse
and incoherent, the whole kaleidoscopic
scheme criss-crossing Itself and resolv
ing into nothing definite. Provided
that a fixed numerical symbol be
given In the ratio of results derived
from the experiments in hearing and
in seeing upon a series of normal in
dividuals, a definite Bcheme of mental
mensuration, having as its basis the
nerve-cell power, could be drawn up
and applied in the case of all who had
passed the age of puberty. Dr. Louis
Martin, of , che Pasteur Institute in
Paris, agrees that even in the case of
retarded mental development it be
ing an admitted scientific fact that
certain minds, even among the most
intelligent, only reach consciousness of
their own power at a comparatively ad
vanced age in life the results of the
visual and auditory- test will afford
amrle grounds for a sound calculation
of the subject's mental "potential."
The Willing Worker.
Indianapolis News.
Real Summer days have conio to pa.
The mercury climbs up the a".
The peek-a-boo now heads the claps,
And wicker lids are all the k":
Around one's walut a belt Is. which
Helps keep 'em up with many a hitch;
And he who works yearns to be rich
So labor he would never know.
Unless perchance he's in the frame
That makes so many purses lame
About thin time of year; the same
That from your income takes a ,lce
To hand unto the busy man
Who labors through the Hummer's span
From the dawn to dark all that he can
To net rich selling- short weight ice.