SUNDAY OREGOyiAX. rORTXA7I. AUGUST 2. 1908.
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ALMOST the first Kail problem to i
bother the home dressmaker if
that of a wrap which will do
duty with such of her Summer raiment
as can be worn during September an
October. Veiling and silk sowm of all
sorts are suitable for early Kail wear
unless their owners live In a section of
the country where Summer sweeps di
rectly Into Winter.
Before giving: any thought to per
chasing a read y -made coat of tailored
design for general Kail wear, study
your go-between-season frocks. They
must govern the choice of outer gar
ment. Perhaps you have a very good shirt
waist suit, made last Spring, In Pana
ma; mohair or checked voile, showing;
the very good combination of green
and blue skillfully mingled. You ex
pected to wear that costume a great
deal when on your vacation, but the
resort selected proved anything but
cool, and you lived In llnene and lawns.
Therefore you have at your service, for
which you may be profoundly grateful,
a neat between-scason shirt waist suit
or business, shopping, marketing and
emergency wear of all kinds.'
Now as to the Jacket. As the suit Is
checked, you must have a plain cloth
In the Jacket, and one whose coloring
wih not offend by too pronounced a
contrast.' If you can match the blue
In the check exactly I would suggest
dark blue, in broadcloth, finished with
stitching and very plain buttons. Do
not attempt to make a tailored Jacket
of plain blue- mohair, panama or veil
ing. They seldom set well, as the
severe tailored style demand a firmer
weave of cloth. If you do not find
a desirable matching blue, then select
that dependable shade, tan or mode, in
English cloth, whipcord, etc., finishing
with stitching and very plain buttons.'
A coat to be worn with a checked or
striped suit must be very plain, with no
braid or velvet or silk trimming.
A very smart design for a tailored
Kali jacket is shown In Figure A. It is
known as the Trince Chaimlng coat
and Is well suited to either, the stout or
slender figure. Its novelties are the
very long opening In the front with
narrow lapel to assist the woman of
stout figure, and the three natty little
pockets which may be "really, truly"
pockets or Just simulated with flaps.
Or perhaps you have a pongee or
Tough silk costume tnat has seen little
service. It may be one of those pretty
combinations of plain and pofka-dot-ted
silk. In which case you can utilizo
It for dressy Kail wear by adding a
natty little coat. If your sleeves are
very elaborate, a combination of silk,
net and lace, try one of the new
sleeveless jackets which you can wear
until really sharp weather sets In.
These are sometimes called coatees and
have been worn quite a little during the
Summer.
Kigure B shows a very eatisfaetory
design which you can elaborate ac
cording. to your needs and your purse.
This requires 2 U yards of material in
silk, width 19 or 20 Inches, and if you
are using pongee In the 3,0-Inch
width, two yards will be ample. The
roatee pictured rs semi-fitting, without
ETIQUETTE ON SHIPBOARD
AFAMOl'S old wit once wrote the
directions for making a success
ful Welsh rarebit. He began by
saying "Fust catch the rabbit." and so I
say to you when going on board a boat
firjt get a chaperon. There Is no other
place of amusement where It Is quite so
Imperative that young men end girls
should not be by themselves. Indeed, a
man who owns a yacht, cathoat or yawl
of any sjze. will always suggest a party
of more than two. and the third person
must be a married woman.
The owner of the boat sends a rowboat
or gig to the shore to meet the guests,
nd when they get aboard the yacht, he
makes quite sure that the chaperon is not
neglected, nor pushed aside in gome ob
scure corner of the boat. She also has
the seat of honor at the table. Here Is
a place where the man Is host, and he
performs all the duties that a woman
would as hostess in her home. He It Is
who suggests cooling drinks, luncheon,
fixes comfortable sears for his guests,
and offers other such bits of service as
he can render. The women nboard are
his guests and await his suggestions.
If the party Is to be of only a few
honre' duration such as to view some
races then no basgaice Is taken along,
except in the form of extra wraps for
personal comfort. The proper dress for
shipboard does not consist of 'Peekaboo"
lingeries dresses, nor elaborate foulard
silks. White or colored linen suits, blue
serge skirts and smart shirtwaists, white
Some Suggestions on How to
THERE la much pleasure to be found
in a perfectly appointed room with
everything arranged to suit one's own
special convenience and comfort, as
well as with an eye to outward beauty,
and most of the girls of the present
day bestow considerable time and
thought on the furnishing and deco
rating of their rooms. But in many
of even the most carefully fitted up
of these rooms the wardrobe or closet
Is apt to be somewhat neglected. The
owner docs not realize how much com
fort she can get by giving some of her
thought and care to this less orna
mental but most useful rart of her
room.
Commenting on this subject, the
Rochester Herald gives some hints that
may be useful as follows:
To have the wardrobe completely
furnished there must be hangers for
skirts, waists and coats, boxes for hats
and waists, bags for corsets, satchets,
covers for light colored gowns, a shoe
bag and a case for umbrellas and para
sols. A color scheme should be chosen
for the whole thing which will har
monize with the room, and the pret
tiest -ffect will be found In using a
flower design In the cretonne, silk or
SOME NOVELTIES FOR EARLY FALL WEAR
S11 .w '
duck skirts, etc.. are raiment in which a
girl should appear when on such a trip.
Many men are very particular about
the deck of their boat being scratched
by the heavy nails In boots, and in such
eases you can have rubber heels put on
your shoes, or wear canvas hoots with
rubber soles and no heels on them. This
request Is seldom made, however, except
in cases of extremely handsome boats.
On longer trips, where the week-end
is to be spent in cruising from one har
bor to another, a suitcase of clothing can
be taken along. If you are to go on shore
to some entertainment, then an evening
gown should be taken for this purpose.
Your host will always tell you whether
you are going to land or stay on board
all of the time. But this fancy dreM Is
not to be worn on the ship. Yachting Is
a very informal sport.
Let the girl who usually spends an hour
or more In the bathroom at home, re
member that she must hurry on board
a ship and not impose on the good na
ture of others. I.et her do her fussing
in her own stateroom, and waste no time
over her bath.
A man should be extremely careful-in
forming a party to meet in his boat, and
get very congenial people together. On
land, where disagreeable conversations
are started, a girl can easily walk away,
but on board a boat she Is not so privi
leged. And the guests who do meet in
the small confines of shipboard , should
all bend every energy to be agreeable.
If you are the sort of girl that hates
crowds, and like to sit alone with one
man. then decline all Invitations to yacht
parties.
sllkollne and the same flower on the
paper covering; the boxes.
These boxes are the only part of
the furnishings on which a girl can do
nothing herself; all the other things
she can make if she wants to. Of
course if she does not care to do the
work and has plenty of money to
spend she can plan it herself and have
someone else do the making.
To begin with the boxes. One must
have several hat boxes of different
sizes to hold the large and small hats,
the number of these depending on the
number of hats one has and the space
on the shelves where they are kept.
Then there are the boxes in which to
keep delicate lace or chiffon waists.
They must be Just large enough to
hold one waist. Make a list of how
many of these hat and waist boxes are
wanted, with their measurements, and
order them from a regular box manu
facturer, choosing a paper to cover
them with the kind of flower you want
to use. There are beautiful papers
made nowadays with every kind of
flower one could want.
Where one is blessed with a closet
of generous proportions it is possible
to have one of the cases of boxes that
have proved themselves so Indispensa
ble to those who have made their ac
quaintance. In a light framework of
wood, enamelled In wb.lt. are arranged
A girl spent three days on a yachting
party, and a few days after she returned,
her host received a set of silver for his
bureau engraved with the ship's flag.
You cannot Imagine a man more embar
rassed than he was. If you have been
on a short cruise, and your host has been
a most charming one. and you feel that
you want to send him some remembrance
of the trip, why do so by all means. Bnt.
if vou value your standing with the man.
make the gift some trifle not a set of
silver. A man who owns a yacht Is al
ways glad of fresh pillows for his chairs
and couches. A "housewife" is another
practical gift which the average girl can
make, a pretty pincushion, or some little
trinket of this sort that can be used
about the ship. Send this along with a
little note, saying you had a lovely time.
The. chaperon on board ship never re
tires until all the girls have said good
night to the men and gone to their varl
lous staterooms. The men are privileged
to sit on the deck, smoke and talk all
night if they choose, but the .girls should
retire at a reasonable hour and should
rise in the morning In time for the. hour
appointed for breakfast.
There is very little chance for tipping
on board a 'private boat. However, the
steward who makes up your bed and at
tends to your stateroom should be given
a tip after a long cruise. Of course,
for a short afternoon trip, or one lasting
a day. no tips are necessary. On long
cruises where the steward has been called
upon to attend to a seasick guest or been
asked to confer other personal atten
tions, he should be given a dollar bill 'at
least. PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Arrange Closets
these flower-covered boxes in various
sizes: the most convenient arrange
ment being two large square hat boxes
side by side, at the top, with two long
shallow boxes beneath, one below the
other, which are convenient for hold
ing shirtwaists. Brass handles of
light weight on the front of the boxes
make it easy to draw them forward
in the rack, and for a young girl's
room or closet the whole affair is a
dainty piece of furniture.
The hangers, corset bags, sachets and
covers for gowns can all be made of
silk or sllkollne, according to how
much money one wishes to spend. If
the expense Is not important, the pret
tiest thlig-is the soft China or India
silk. But some of the flowered cotton
goods are also most attractive. For
the coats and cloth or heavy silk
bodices . buy the metal hangers and
cover them with cotton batting, with
sachet powder through it, and silk
on the outside, and tack it in several
places, like tufting. The curved end,
which goes over the hook, should be
wound with narrow ribbon to match
the silk.
For skirts do not use the hangers
that go inside the skirt; they are apt
td stretch the skirt at the sides.. Buy
the little snap hangers that are used
for men's trousers, and catch the belt
of the skirt holding It very tight be
tween the springs. Paint the wooden
part of these hangers the color of the
flowers and wind ribbon around the
metal part. The ribbon can be bought
with the same flower design as the
silk.
The corset bags are merely silk hags
just large enough to hold a pair of
corsets and are drawn up with ribbon
nt the top. They can be either hung
up on a hook or laid on a shelf.
Sachcy bags are, of course,' just little
silk bags padced and filled wkh sachet
powder. They can be made In any
size or shape one likes and put . in
with hats, gowns, corsets or in any
convenient spot to give a general deli
cate fragrance to the closet.
The covers for gow"ns are large
squares mnde of several breadths- of
silk sewed together and hemmed
around. Then a hole is cut In the
center and hemmed. Through this
hole is put the hook of the hanger ana
the silk falls softly all around the
gown and keeps off all dust.
Another method, preferred by some,
is to make covers in the shape of a
pillow slip, of different sizes to ac
commodate "klrts or bodice, and then
to cut a hole at the end opposite the
hem. Through this hole the hook of
the hanger is passed, leaving the open
ing at the bottom. . s
Shoe bags and umbrella cases must
be made of good, strong cretonne. This,
too, can be bought with almost any
flower design. A shoe bag is made of
a square piece of cretonne, with
pockets sewed on to hold the shoes and
bound with ribbon Or colored tape, the
tape being stronger and wearing much
better. An umbrella case is made In
Just the same way, but long enough to
hold the umbrellas and with the
pockets narrow enough to have them
just slip in and out easily. The shoo
and umbrella cases are fastened tight
to the inside of the door of the closet.
Embroidered Collars.
Now that lingerie ties are no longer
fashionable and turndown collars of em
broidered linen are not . as much worn
as formerly, while even elaborate lingerie
bodices bid fair to be .replaced by sim
pler waists of fine tucked batiste, the
girl who' takes pride in the exquisite em
broidery which she turns out, but has
not talent for either plain sewing or
knitting, has to turn back to the ever
popular dollies and centerpieces or else
Invent for herself some new means of
employment.
Embroidered parasols are as much in
demand as ever, but they are also quite
as costly as they have ever been, so
that while a girl might desire to possess
numberless sunshades of this order to
match her linen and batiste gowns she
must needs content herself with those
of simpler design, or, worse yet, ma
chine work. If she is fond of embroid
ering, however, a girl can make for her
self a really beautiful parasol at a sur
prisingly small cost.
Stamped lengths of linen and batiste
can now be had regularly intended as
parasol covers, and these are to be found
in quite simple as -well as in the ex
quisitely intricate and elaborate designs.
A plain filled in design in white or light
colored linen is always effective, but
the open eyelet hole work is particu
larly pretty, and especially effective when
the cover is laid over a foundation of
light colored silk, as many of the linen
parasols - are this 7ear.
WHEN YOU ARE WELL
"a
I,L writers on beauty or fashion
seem to lay great stress on the art
of being well groomed. Can you tell mc
just what constitutes good grooming?"
The inquiry from a regular reader of
our beauty column opens a wide field for
d.scussion. "Good grooming" is an ex
tremely comprehensive phrasa, . capable
of many interpretations.
The well-groomed individual patronizes
the Turkish bath or a substitute therefor.
But I have known a devotee of the Tur
kish bath to be anything but well
groomed, because, after the bath, she
did not have her hair properly dressed or
she donned a dress that sagged in the
back or needed pressing.
The well-groomed woman stands for
personal daintiness, but she must also
know and practice appropriateness In
drees. A woman who is personally
dainty, whose hair gleams like satin,
whose finger nails are well-kept and teeth
like pearls, may still look ungrsjomcd if
she wears a picture hat with a severe
tailored suit when shopping.
The well-groomed individual cleans his
teeth night and morning and after each
meal. If he smokes and stains his teeth,
he has them gone over by a dentist not
less than once a month.
He does not 'have his hair cut spas-
SMART ST A- .
TIONERY
IN these days of fads and fancies a
girl is known by her stationery al
moBt as well as by her given name.
Many fashionable girls select a certain
color and type of writing paper and
never vary it for years and years and
the idea is a good one. It stamps a
girl as having individuality of her
own. ,
All personal stationery for social
notes should have the writer's mono
gram on it. Some girls still cling to
the three Initials others have their
christian names printed out in full,
such aas "Elinor." "Muriel.' etc. while
still others prefer to have the address
of their home In place of either ini
tials or name. Whatever the inscrip
tion It should, be stamped in gilt, sil
ver or colored letters of a dull tone.
Bright red monograms on white paper
are never seen.
For the gui in mourning will he
found a black bordered paper in four
widths. The heaviest, or No. 1 border,
is used for deep mourning, the border
growing narrower as the girl lightens
her mourning, and just before she goes
Into colors she uses a pure white pa
per with what is known as the Italian
border the tiniest little black line
possible all around the paper.
The young girl graduate who writes
reams and reams to all the girls in her
class will find money in her pocket-by
Investing in a pound or more of what
Is called "Foreign Note Paper." This
is extremeely thin, and the envelopes
which match It are lined, so that the
writing on the letter itself will not
modlcally. but regularly. ' Tou do not
meet him one week with hair almost
touching his coat collar, and the next
week with it clipped close, like a prize
fighter's. 'Neither does he allow dandruff
to collect on his scalp, and shower his
coat collar and shoulders. He docs not
radiate perfume of any sort, but his
regular shaving followed by patting the
face with bayrum or a good toilet water
rives him a general air of cleanliness and
freshness. He docs i.ot have his finger
-nd im cut to deep points or highly pol
ished, but he keens them trimmed round
ly and regularly, with what might be
termed a "domestic finish" for polish.
He keeps his shoes polished and the
laces or ties renewed. He has his clothes
pressed, even if he has to do It himself,
and it lo truly astonishing how many
young men master this art. If there are
spots on his tie he cleans them oft with
a cleansing fluid which can be bought at
any drugstore for a dime.
The well-groomed woman is not always
the most expensively, dressed woman, nor
does she dress her hair in the most ex
treme fashion. But when you look at her
once, you are bound to take a second
look she Is so pleasing, so harmonious,
BO restful.
Her hair is clean and well brushed. If
she wears a switch, or a few puffs, you
may be sure that she buys good hair that
show through to enlighten the inquisi
tive eyes of the local postmistress.
Egg shell paper was -much used for
several years, but of late it has given
way to what is known as a cambrio
or orgafldie paper. The egg shell pa
per, while it was very dainty, was ex
tremely hard to write on, the rough
finish refusing to take kindly to the
ink.' This cambric paper has a soft,
smooth finish, and can be bought in
all colors.
L While we are talking about colors.
let me Impress upon you mat oniy me
palest of shades is used. The blues
are dull, gray blues not a Copenhagen
shade. The pinks have Just a sugges
tion of the dawn in them not a rasp
berry hue. While the lavenders used
are colored like the palest aster not
the purple shade. Greens, yellows and
such odd colors are extremely bad
form. It is always safe to have white
paper, unless, as mentioned above, y&u
wish to have some individual paper.
Matching the paper in tone, if not
in actual color, must be sealing wax.
The women in the smart set always
seal their letters. Many of them have
a small die for the seal, matching the
monogram on the paper, reduced sev
eral sizes; while many others use a
die with a single initial on It
If you happen to be a girl who is
called upon to write many short notes
a great convenience will be found in
the note cards, which should match
your regulation stationery. These
cards are about five inches square,
made of medium weight bristol board,
like a visiting card would be. They
should have your monogram Just as
your note paper does, and envelopes to
match. These cards are bought in
packages of 25, and are great time
savers.
A race horse galloping- at full speed clears
from 20 feet to 2 feet every stride.
side-pieces. A strap at the waist
line connects the fronts and backs. The
shoulder seams are long, giving Just a
suggestion of the over-sleeve effect.
If your frock Is a dotted, striped or
figured pongee, use plain pongee In the
same shade for this coatee'. Edge it
with a flat braid in the same shade,
showing a. lace pattern, or you can em
ploy a Persian band In soft, harmonious
colors. Another effective finish Is lace
banding or galoon, dyed to match the
silk. Sometimes these coatees are
braided quite elaborately, and for very
dressy wear, eay with a fine voile of
delicate coloring, you can make It of
heavy lace, on a matching silk founda
tion. A beautiful combination recently seen
in a smart shop showed an elaborate
gown of sage-green voile, trimmed with
embroidery of green, delicate blue and ;
white, with which was shown a coatee j
of ecru gulrupure lace. The upper j
sleeves of the costume beneath the
coatee were of the sage-green, voile,
embroidered heavily above the elbow
and beneath this fell a flouncing of era.
broldered ecru net, and the half-sleeve
of mousquetaire desiga were of shirred
net.
A cross between cape and Jacket is ;
shown in Figure C, which will furnish
you with a very neat little wrap to
wear in combination with a figured
foulard or novelty veiling. It could be
developed in the fabric of the gown,
but better effects are secured If a con
trasting silk is used, particularly a
soft, lustrous silk, braided and finished
with tassels. They are also made of
heavy lace, overlaying silk.
In Figure D you will find the very
best cutaway model to be worked out
in plain black satin, which will be
much worn for semi-tailored Jackets
this Fall. Yos see thenj with gowns of
striped or dotted silk, plain, striped,
checked or figured veilings, and with
plain black veilings. For this design,
use a heavy black satin, lined with
white. The collar and turn-back culTs
are braided with black silk soutache,
or if you want a more striking effect,
use black and white striped satin, or
white satin braided with black for
these accessories. If your coat is all
black, including the frogs, then use
black braid on the coat and for the
natty tie which finishes the Jacket at
the throat. If you want the black an
white combination, then introduce It
in collar," cuffs and tie. But this
should be attempted only when the
Jacket Is to be worn with an all-black
costume. When it is to be worn with
striped or figured effects, by all means
keep the coat solid black.
It will be noted that in this design
the collar docs not meet In the front,
but leaves a space of ahout three inches
open. The collar Is held In place by the
tie, which is slipped, one end through
a strap on the other, giving a modineu
four-ln-hand effect. A lace Jabot or
bow Is then worn as a finish on the
blouse beneath.
The craze for waistcoats seem to be
waning, and the fad for cretonne trim
mings will be absolutely dead by Fall.
The smartest vest effects for early Fall
will be in self-tone materials, heavily
braided. The exception 1s the real
Louis coat of fine material, when the
vest may be of embroidery, brocade,
pompadour ribbon or heavy lace en
riched by braid or embroidery.
MARY DEAN.
GROOMED
matches her own carefully, and then
combines the two so cleverly that the line
of demarcation cannot be seen. The fa
shion in which the would-be stylish girl
openly flaunts her false hair this season
Is not good grooming.
She does not apply powder to excess
until her face looks like a mask, nor does
she go to the other extreme and assume
a complexion so vivid that the cosmetics
can be recognized by the most inexperi
enced eye.
She never allows a- spot to remain on
her frock, and she does not wear a soiled
petticoat under a freshly laundered shirt
waist suit. Her neckwear is immaculate
and her skirts and blouses always meet
firmly. Her short skirts do not sag in
the back and her boot heels are never
crooked or "runovcr." A missing shoe
button she abhors, and her laces and ties
are always fresh and well tied.
She never wears a trained dress when
walking on the street, and she never
goes downtown shopping, even in Sum
mer, in- a low-necked blouse. She wears
a simple hat with tailored suits, and'
her gloves are subdued in coloring. She
does not wear heavy brown ties with a
silk or mull frock to a party, and neither
does she wear fancy slippers with a short
tailored skirt Cleanliness and harmony
these are the keynotes of good grooming.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Llunches for
MID-SUMMER
THE hostesses who earnestly desire to
score a brilliant success in giving a
midsummer luncheon will feature ice
cold courses, and avoid, as far as pos
sible, any hot dishes. The claim is often
made that such a luncheon is without
nourishment, but this Is not true, espe
cially if you start it with iced bouillon or
an aspic dish. Aspic is a clear stuck
made from chicken, veal or beef, sea
soned and cooked down until It Jellies, or
thickened with gelatin, allowing precisely
the same proportion of stock and gelatin
that you would of wine and water for a
wine jelly. Aspic dishes should be gar
nished very beautifully, and molded In
fancy forms.
Cblckea In Aspic Weigh out ten
ounces of white meat of chicken, which
has been well cooked. Pass this through
a grinder, or mince very fine. Make a
stiff sauce with the broth of the chicken
and a little cream enough to make half
a coffee cup. Season this with salt, pep
per and nutmeg, and mix with It very
thoroughly the minced chicken. Have
ready half a cup of aspic Jelly, warmed
and melted, and half a cup of cream
whipped stiff. Beat this together thor
oughly and pour into individual molds.
Now, fill a border mold, the size of your
platter, with melted aspic, and let both
the individual molds and the border
harden on ice. When ready to serve turn
the individual molds out on the plattiy,
then the border around them, and gar
nish with parsley or cress. Serve with,
mayonnaise dressing.
r
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