THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. JULY-5,. I90S.
Revival in Dots for Mid-Summer Fabrics
FIG. A. DOTTED AND BORDERED
Guarding Against Germs
WHY does the family doctor bill
trcnerally grow apace after
"Mother" and the children re
turn from their vacation?
Why do so many girls go direct from
their Summer boarding-place to a sick
fced at home to a hospital ward?
Perhaps you have never realized that
these things did happen year after
year. Perhaps, If you heard the fact
commented upon, you have said, as one
-oman did to me: "Oh. well, you know
e never realize how utterly done up
ive are. until we go on our vacations.
Then when once we do relax and tired
nature asserts Itself, we tsimply drift
Into illness. We have time to think
that we are 111, and from thinking or
realizing that you do not feel well, you
80 to bed."
Fine reasoning, but it will not bear
Investigation.
no. tors will tell you that half of the
Fall illness Is the result of mid-Summer
fully. Typhoid springs from bad drain
age and water supply, tainted wells and
foul pipes at Summer resorts, and tu
berculosis, so often laid to an accidental
fl.ucking during the vacation by the lake
or sea. more often comes from con
tagion through the use of public drink
ing cups, towels In public lavatories,
etc.
The disease germ is a lively, mls-rnief-muking
HtUe creature In vacation
days, and every traveler should guard
against his evil work.
The most dangerous germ with which
the average Summer traveler comes in
contact is that of tuberculosis. He is
everywhere. The consumptive who
clings to a steam-heated room all Win
ter Is abroad, endangering the public
health, in mid-Summer.
In one of the great factories of New
York city, there worked a bright in
spectres. She was without rival in the
opinion of her employers. As the piles
of Karments came in from the sweat
shop workers, the girl passed upon the
v. 01 kmauship. checking the article-! oft
on the vouchers. In order to facilitate
her work, she moistened her finger tips
on Iser tongue and then, with moist
finger. nui klv turned the pages of
voir 'hers.
One day she reported for work with
a cold. In h month she had lost her
vo'c. In six weeks a city physician
examined her throat and pronounced
the trouble tuberculosis. If the girl
were to speak aloud, one of the tuber
cular abscesses in her throat might
burst and death follow. The next day
the girl left for an out-door camp in
the ( Hlskill Mountains.
Perhaps you think this has nothing
to do with vacation germs. Xo? Well,
let me add that this girl was wretched
ly sick and feverish. The train was hot
and stuffy. About every 15 or 20 min
utes during that hard journey, the girl
who. to all other eyes, was apparently
In good health, stepped to the water
cooler for a drink, and between each
of her drinks, scores of other passen
gers, bound for Summer resorts along
the Hudson River, men. women and
children, drank from the same glass
FOULARD IN CREAM AND BROWN.
used by this girl In whosa throat, only
a few Inches below the lips which
touched the glass were the deadliest ab
scesses known to medical science.
Do you know who has been drinking
of the glass you seize so eagerly In
railway station or hotel hall?
If you don't know, don't use the glass.
Have a drinking cup of your own, one
of the little collapsible affairs, and
loan It to no one.
The lnspectress, with death written
in her throat, ought not to have used
that public drinking glas but no one
had told her so. She ought to have had
her own glass, her own face towels.
But, like all of her kind, she was op
timistic. She would come home In a
few weeks cured. In the meantime she
had no thought of the disease germs
she was scattering among pleasure
bound travelers.
In the marble and nickel-plated
lavatory of one of the finest railway
stations In America, I saw a maid put
out a spotless roller toweh Then she
went about her business. She could
not dictate who should and should not
use that towel. While I was there, one
woman with a revolting skin disease,
and another with an ugly running sore
on her lower lip used that towel. A
third woman with a hacking cough and
hectic flush came in, took the towel oft
the roller, dipped -a corner into water,
laved her face, throat and hands, dried
them and put the towel back on the
roller. And after these came a fresh,
laughing girl, vacation bound. She told
her friend how hot she was. She must
have a good wash between trains. She
bathed her face and hands vigorously
In the cooling water, then turned to
the towel. Round and round the towel
was turned.
"I do wish I could And a real .-clean
spot here is a near-clean one."
It was a white space about four
inches square. Gingerly the girl tried
to dry her face on this small space
but germs travel, and she had used the
same towel employed by the woman
with the revolting skin disease, the
woman with the running sore and the
woman with the hacking cough and
hectic cheeks. I have often wondered
whether that pretty vacationist escaped
alt of those dread diseases.
I heard a girl exclaim on entering a
hotel room.
"Why, there's a nice sponge the last
roomer left. I'm going to wash it out
well and use it. I forgot mine."
And she did without knowing
whether there were germs In the for
gotttn sponge. On a toilet article which
cost not over a quarter, she risked her
life and happiness.
If you And a half-used cake of soap
In your boarding-house room, throw it
away and buy a fresh one of your own.
If you go to the beach for a half-holiday
and want to drink a bit before you
have dinner, look out for germs in the
lavatory connected with the restaurant
Do not use the soap, the towel or" the
comb provided by the proprietor of the
restaurant. Go provided for just such
emergencies. Slip a bit of oid mulsin or
linen Jn your bag and throw it away
when you have washed. Tou can carry
HE dot, large, small and middle
sized, has been revived in the latest
weave's for mid-Summer frocks. In
the Spring we saw nothing but stripes,
and the dot was said to be quite out of
the running, but behold, with the first
warm days fickle Dame Fashion change
her mind and once more the dot reigns
practically supreme In new dress goods.
The fashionable border is in a measure
responsible for this revival. Very few
women approved or found becoming the
bordered fabrics in which ground work
and border were in direct contrast. The
plain fabric bordered with stripes of a
contrasting color, for instance, was a bit
trying, but when Dame Fashion began to
experiment and the looms turned out
exquisite dotted grounds with borders
to match the dots, the result was far
more appealing to the average American
woman, who balks at the too. too strik
ing contrast.
The majority of the new silks, those
which have been placed on the counters
during June and which are Ideal for
Summer wear, show this pleasing com
bination of dot and border. A stunning
new foulard is In this class. The ground
is a rich cream, the cream that is almost
golden. Over this are scattered golden
brown polka dots about a quarter of an
inch In diameter, and rather close to
gether. The border, which appears every
45 or 46 inches in the pattern, consists of
fine strips in golden brown. The con
trast Is not sufficiently glaring between
groundwork and border to offend the
most fastidious and quiet taste.
In Fig. A Is shown a most effective lit
tle Summer frock sketched from this new
foulard. The double-ruffle effect is very
good for a tall girl and her shorter sister
may utilize the border design around the
lower ruffle only. '
In this design, combining dot and bor
dered effect, the panel skirt works out
admirably. A front and two side
panels are introduced with the border
running up and down, while between are
box pleats made from the plainer
groundwork with Its dots. The border
Is then used as vest, collar and cuffs
on the blouse, or If the Japanese lines
are followed, stripes outline the kimono
sleeves. .
Another weave in which the dot and
stripe appear in combination is a novelty
chiffon taffeta showing a silver ground
with a blueish-gray ring-dot and a bor
der of silver blueish-gray and natier
blue. This silk has a thousand shim
mary lights and is especially suited for
d'nner and reception frocks.
The natural-toned pongees ' are both
stamped and embroidered with dots and
ring-dots, in strongly contrasting colors,
such as cardinal red, green, brown and
all the delicate tints, lavender, Alice blue,
a folding comb In your purse. AncHif
you have no handkerchief or piece of
muslin to use for a towel, then tip the
maid a dime or a nickel and she will
get you a fresh towel.
When riding In a train whose seats
are upholstered, whether day coach or
Pullman, do not lean your head against
the plush back. Cover this with a
handkerchief, towel or even clean piece
of paper before you allow your hair to
touch it. Scalp diseases lurk In plush
upholstery.
Do not accept a bedroom at your
Summer boarding place unless the linen
used by your predecessor has been re
moved. This means clean sheets, pillow
cases and counterpane. Quite frequent
ly the chambermaid will change the
sheets and pillow cases, but use the
half-soiled counterpane. Do not allow
this.
Observing these few simple rules may
save you a serious illness as the price
of a vacation which should represent
restored health.
KATHERIXE MORTON.
Women Writing Letters.
' Charlotte Observer.
The Savana News says that "when
the average woman takes up a four
page sheet of paper to write a letter she
fills the first page, then skips to the
third page, fills that, and then goes back
to the second page.
"A Pennsylvania woman recently wrote
her will that way, affixing her signature
on the second page. At the reading of
the will the lawyers read straight ahead
from page 1 to page 2, which carried the
signature, and that seemed to. settle the
whole business. There was writing on
page 3 to be sure, but it appeared to be
an unsigned "codicil."
The trouble about paging letters is that
there Is no "average" woman. A woman
Is as apt as not to start a letter on the
fourth page, hop about like a flea, and
wind up on the third, of course putting
the page number on none of them. She
may do that way about one letter and a
totally different way about another. She
Is not even consistent with herself. Every
woman seems to do a different way every
time, and so does every other womtn. If
there was any consistency about them.
If all of them would skip about the same
way every time, their eccentricities would
not be so bewildering, and the lawyers
would not have stopped reading this
Pennsylvania woman's will when they
got half through, and cut her folks out of
the bequests which she intended to make
to them, they being taken care of in the
supposed codicil, while the stuff she be
queathed on the first and second pages
was all to charities. But we have known
all along that some time a Judgment
would be sent on some of them.
The Old Water-WbeeL
John Ruskln.
It lies beside the river, where Its marge
Is black with many an old and oarles
barge.
And yesty filth and leafage wild and rank
.Stagnate and battea by the crumbling bank.
Once, slow revolving by the Industrious
mill.
It murmured only on the Sabbath still;
And evening winds its pulse-like beating
bore
Down the soft vale and by the winding
shore.
Sparkling around its orbed motion, flew.
With quick fresh fall, the drops of dashing
dew,
Through noontide heat that gentle rain was
flung.
And verdant, round, the Summer herbage
sprung.
Now. dancing light and sounding motion
cease.
In these dark hours of cold continual peace;
Througrh its black bars the unbroken moon
light flows.
And dry winds howl about Its long repose!
And molderlng lichens creep, and mosses
gray.
Cling 'round Its arms, in gradual decay.
Amidst the hum of men which doth not
suit
That shadowy circle, motionless and mute!
So. by the sleep of many a human heart
The crowd of men may bear their busy part,
"Where, withered, or forgotten, or subdued.
Its noisy passiones have left solitude.
Ah ! little can they trace the hidden truth.
What waves have moved It in the vale of
youth!
And little can Its broken chords avow
How once they sounded. All is silent now!
geranium pink and rose pink. The dots
vary in size from a quarter of an Inch
to those the size of a quarter.
Lovely dotted challies the shown, but
these are principally for elderly women
who like a warm frock for cool morn
ings and evenings. They are not seen
for street wear this season.
In the tub fabrics, batiste. Swiss, lawn,
organdie, cotton voile, madras, pique
and percale, the dot Is simply rampant.
Light-weight piques embroidered in white
Fog. D. Morning Dress In Dotted
Percale With Bands of Linen.
mercerized floss or dots or rings in bright
colors are most charming for tailored
shirt waist suits. A tie' embroidered to
YoungMan Who Is Entertained
THE young man, 'twlxt 16 and 20,
who receives the greatest number
of week-end or fortnight invitations
during the vacation months. Is not al
ways the youth most popular with those
of his own age. The hostess, the mother,
the married sister, and not the young
man of the household, finally settles
who shall be the guests. And that
young man who has been negligent of
his duty toward his hostess on other
visits. Is eventually blacklisted In the
very homes where he most desires to
be entertained.
"And we'll have George N n," an
nounces the undergraduate who is mak
ing up a list of guests for a fortnight
in mid-Summer.
"I think not. dear," replies his mother
quietly. "The last time George was
here, he smoked cigarettes in the guest
room, burned holes in my muslin cov
ers and curtains, and never wrote me
a bread-and-butter."
And despite "George's" popularity with
the younger members of the household,
he is not invited.
If you do not want to share the fate
of "George," heed these few sugges
tions for the mid-Summer guest.
Your Invitation will doubtless come
from your school or college chum. De
cide at once, and whether you decline
or accept, be sure that you finish your
note with a few phrases like this:
Fig. B. An Embrlodered Mull Over
B "ouse With Mull Gulmp and Skirt.
"Remember me very kindly to your
mother and thank her for remembering
me in making out her list of guests."
Be sure your friend will' show such
a note as this to his mother with real
pride.
If a day and hour are set for your
arrival, make the train designated. Your
hostess may have arranged a dinner or
picnic, and may be depending upon you
to do escort duty or to take a certain
girl to dinner.
If your wardrobe will permit, take
with you a supply of .linen so large
that you will not need to have laun
dry work done. Many a family has lost
its good maids because thoughtless
guests tossed additional soiled clothing
Into the family basket. . If you must
have washing done during your stay,
unostentatiously find out some reliable
worker in the neighborhood.
If the family where you are to visit
makes a practice of dressing elabo
rately for evening dinner, you must take
your evening clothes. In most Summer
homes, however, flannels or serges are
match the dots or rings gives the finish
ing touch.
In the lighter weight weaves, particu
larly batiste, various sizes of dibts ap
pear in the same dress pattern. For in
stance, you will find the greater part
the pattern covered with dots no larger
than a good-sized pea. but here and there
will come a strip showing dots as large
as a 5-cent piece or even a quarter. The
large dots are employed to give a bor
dered effect below the smaller dots on
the skirt, while a similar strip of large
dots appears on the yoke. This sounds
like a striking combination, but In reality
It Is most effective. Particularly is the
design useful in making princess frocks,
for large dots do not work well into
tucked waist lines.
Three very pretty patterns for using
dotted designs In wash fabrics are shown
herewith. Fig. B would be most ef
fective In either mull or batiste. For
the tall girl the skirt may be laid in'
deep tucks all the way round, each, out
lined and beaded by Val lace Insertion
and edging, but the short girl will secure
better results if she employs only plain
deep tucks, as the introduction of lace
cuts off the height. There Is a simple
guimpe or underblouse of the dotted ma
terial laid in fine tucks or pleats over
the shoulder, and an overblouse of at
tractive shape, which - can be made of
plain batiste or mull and embroidered
in a large, spreading pattern In mercer
ized floss, or all-over embroidered batiste
can be bought for 60 cents a yard and
lace used for trimming It.
Fig. C shows a lovely little frock In
ring-dotted batiste with only fine tucks
on skirt and blouse to fit It to the figure.
A box pleat down the front of the blouse
edged with lace and elbow cuffs to match
provide the simple but effective trim
ming. . This is an Ideal afternoon frock
for the woman who does her own work
and who must set tea forth after she has
dressed for the day.
In Fig. D will be found the ubiquitous
dot as it appears in percale, blue on a
white ground with bands of plain blue
linen in the same shade of blue that ap
pears In the dots. This makes one of the
half dozen simple morning frocks every
Summer girl should have. If the skirt is
cut four Inches from the ground and the
rolling collar is used, the pretty frock
becomes suitable for tennis or golf.
Most of the new Swisses show a double
pattern, that Is, dots or rings scattered
over a p)ald weave or between stripes.
And a word to the wise which ought to
be sufficient: If you pick up a piece of
black or white ecru silk net with a ring or
dot. or a dress length In chiffon cloth,
marquisette or fine voile, embroidered In
the same fashion, count yourself in great
fortune, for the dot, it is prophesied, will
remain In demand all Fall and Winter.
MARY DEAN.
worn. Your linen or canvas suits are for
morning and afternoon wear only.
If you have visited this family before.
It Is a graceful courtesy to take for your
hostess a little gift, flowers, or candy or
a new book.
Do not smoke in the house or oh the
porch without asking the permission of
your hostess. Do not lounge around
collarless and in your shirt sleeves. If
you must discard your coat and collar,
repair to your own room or to some sha
dowy nook by the river or in the woods
where you will not offend the sight of
your hostess.
While you are her guest and she Is
presumably arranging entertainments
In your honor, remember that you owe
her girl guests many small attentions.
You are to play cavalier to them, whe
ther they are Just the girls you like or
not.
Do not plan to leave the house or
accept any invitations without consult
ing your hostess. She may have some
thing arranged for the same day and
hour.
Do "not leave the house without see
ing your hostess, thanking her for your
entertainment and bidding her good
bye. And finally within 48 hours after you
reach home, write to your hostess, not
to your chum, a graceful note of thanks.
You may make this very brief, but write
it you must.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Frozen Sweets
rOTJRTH OF JULY and home-made
Ice cream are Inseparable In the
average American household.' Even In
large cities where the ice cream can be
bought on almost every corner, the
freezer has become a household institu
tion, because the home-made variety has
a flavor not to be secured from any
catering shops.
How to Fteeie Cream. The final re
sults depend almost as much on correct
method of freezing as on mixing -the in
gredients. Most important is the prep
aration of the Ice. Pound this into pieces
no larger than a hickory nut, and use
salt as coarse as half a green pea. Allow
one part of salt to three of ice and mix
these together in a pall, pack this in
the bottom of the freezer to the depth
of an inch, settle the can in the freezer
with the cover on tight, pack the mix
ture of Bait and ice firmly around the
can, turning it occasionally to make sure
It will move easily. When the ice and
salt are within an inch of the top of the
can. remove the lid, fill the can with your
cream mixture, adjust the dasher, cover
and begin to turn the-crank slowly. As
you increase the speed, add more of the
salt and ice mixture. WThen the cream Is
the consistency of a very rich, thick cus
tard, remove the dasher, work the cream
down with a wooden ladle and beat hard.
Cover with clean paper, then with the
can cover, and bury in ice and salt.
Cover with a blanket or piece of clean
carpet and set away In a cold place for
two hours to ripen.
French Ice Cream. In a double
boiler, scald one pint of milk, beat to
gether five eggs and one cup of sugar,
stir slowly Into the scalded milk. When
It thickens, strain and set away to cool.
Beat one pint of cream to a froth, add
to the chilled custard with two. table
spoons of vanilla and freeze.
Maple Nut Cream. Make either the
French or Philadelphia Ice cream, - as
given above, . and when ready . to serve
11 glasses about two-thirds. Pour over
this a maple syrup made with half a
pound of maple sugar, boiled with a lit
tle water until it is ropey, but does not
sugar wnen dropped in cold water. Or
you can boll down ordinary maple syrup
until It is ropey. On top of the cream,
scatter thickly chopped nuts, walnuts,
almonds, hickory nuts. etc.
Chocolate Nut Cream. This is made
on the same principle as maple nut. Cut
up one-fourth cake of baker's chocolate,
cover with hot water, add butter the
size ,of an egg. cup and a half of sugar,
and cook until it Is .a rich syrup. Pour
.not over vanilla Ice cream, scatter nuts
over the top and serve at once. This
quantity of chocolate will . be sufficient
for about eight glasses of cream.
J
To Utilize Summer Ribbons
THE - family piece bag is reasonably
sure of holding, at this season of
the year, remnants of silk and rib
bon which could be employed to good
purpose. Some have been held with the
expectation of renovating a frock which
is now past saving other bits have
simply been laid aside and forgotten.
These wiH now prove invaluable, for fur
nishing neckwear, net and lace dresses,
and making the little accessories of dress
with which the Summer girl of 1908 is
so lavishly decked.
If any of your old ribbons need wash
ing, use naptha soap, rubbed on them
with a suds of warm water. Wrap them
up In a towel and let them stand with
the soap on them for half an hour, then
rinse up and down in warm water, and
iron dry between two pieces of old mus
lin. This is by far the best way of wash
ing ribbons as it does not necessitate
rubbing which usually ruins the warp of
ribbons.
One of the smartest sashes seen this
season was made of black and white
striped ribbon found In a box of "left
overs." A soft bit of the ribbon formed
the belt, and the loops were very short.
The ends fell to the full length of the
dress, and Instead of cutting the edges
on the bias, they were cut straight across
and finished with a heavy piece of black
silk fringe that once adorned a dress
in grandmother's days. Another smart
little sash worn on a pure white dress
was a combination of lavender and corn
colored ribbon. ' Tiie wearer found she
had only two yards and a half of the
lavender and one and a half of the corn
color, the other about the waist line, and
making two long ends of the lavender
and one of the yellow. The lavender
ends she buttonholed in heavy yellow
floss, and the yellow ends she button
holed in heavy, lavender floss. The effect
was charming.
Ribbon jumpers "seems to have made
a place for themselves In the Summer
wardrobe of many girls. Rather a wide
ribbon is needed for this, else a narrow
fancy ribbon joined with black velvet
ribbon. With this should be worn a
crushed belt of the same ribbon.
Almost all the well-dressed Summer
girls are wearing bows of ribbon in their
hair, with an end of the ribbon twined
in and out among the puffs and curls.
The effect is charming and generally
very becoming, unless a girl is unusually
tall. . A very practical bow is made of
black velvet ribbon combined with- silver
gauze. Both should be wired and formed
into a standing bow, and if the . wearer
has dark hair, the silver gauze should
be twined through the hair. If she is a
blonde, the black velvet should be used
for that purpose.
Many of- the newest lingerie gowns
have lace collars attached to them. Over
this is worn a high stock of pompadour
ribbon, high In ' the back and brought
down low in the front showing the lace
collar. This Is fastened in front with
two long narrow ends, and the ends
finished with a long. silk tassel In a color
that harmonizes with, the ribbon. Some
times a sash is worn matching the stock,
but this is not necessary.
Leghorn and Panama .hats, for wear
with shirtwaist suits are almost uni
versally trimmed with a .huge bow of
black moire or satin . ribbon preferably
ir- ia it li stiller and holds its shape
I
better. These hats are turned up at one
side and on the drooping side Is put the.
large wired bow of black ribbon which
any girl with deft fingers can manu
facture. A pongee or linen coat which has
shrunk or grown too email for its owner,
can be made wearable and very up-to-,'
date by insetting a vest of some gaily-"
colored ribbon, and putting collar and
cuffs on it of the same. It only takes .
three-quarters of a yard for the vest of
a short coat.
MARY DEAN.
Mountain Sickness.
Although the subject of mountain
sickness has been carefully studied at t
different times end reported upon by
Bkilled observers, the effects of prolonged '.
residence in high localities have not re
ceived the same' attention from scien
tists. It Is taken for granted by most .
writers that after a certain length of
time a healthy man can adapt himself
perfectly to any degree of altitude. Med- .
ieal practitioners resident In elevated
parts of South Africa have, however, :
lately cast doubts on the Ideas which are -usually
held on this subject, says Lon
don Hospital; .Observations on persons
apparently well acclimatized to an ele
vation of 6000 feet above the coast level
frequently reveal a constant Increase In
the pulse rate, while the examination of
a number of Johannesburg school chil-
dren showed a large proportion of cases
of cardiac hypertrophy. :
Jeweled Hat Pins. ,
Gorgeously jeweled pins are -forming
a strong feature In the trimming of hats. .
I do not mean by this' the necessary hat '
pin to keep the hat in place, but a part
of the' trimming -itself. These pins are
about three or four inches long In the
head part, and are ' set with brilliants
combined with colored stones. Two or
three of them are stuck in a hat and
lend great style to it. Particularly are '
these Jeweled .trimming pins seen on all ,
black hats. -They brighten up an other
wise absolutely . dead . looking bat In a.
most satisfactory manner.
The Commencement Angel.
Prepare the lace-trimmed lingerie, lay out -
the silken hose;
Make bright the shoes with four-inch heel
and shuttle-pattern toes;
Draw .forth the several feet of glove with
countless fastenings;
She's going to apeak a thesis on !The Worth
of. Simple Thins." .
She "bets" her satin gown will be the envy
of the class;- t
Anticipates how they will stare when fluff ily
he'll pass '
To where, with mirror -stud led pose and
voice that vibrant rings.
She'll spout her flowery preachment on "The
Worth of Simple Things. "
Her hair done ux In fluffs and puffs with
combs she will bedeck; ...
A glittering chain with pendant stones she'll
wear around her neck;
With shining bracelets on her arms and
fibers flashing rings, '
The audience she will lecture on "The
Worth of Simple Things."
From all her family and kin a gift she will
expect;- - .
If what she wants and what she gets fall .
fully to connect
A chill will run along her spine and nip the
sprouting wings
She feels unfolding as she tells "The Worth
of Simple Thlnrs."
. ,, i , Frederick Mo son. is Puck
4