r
THE SUADAT OREGOXIAJf, TORTLAXD, JUNE 21, 1908.
Jiv ISS ANNA teas certainly a god
I j send. It was due to her compre-
hension of the "human warlous,"
and her experienced knowledge of Lon
don, that I was enabled to revisit places
I had never seea before.
When she calmly aesked me to spend a
day sightseeing In the "'City," I gasped.
Hut when she reminded me that I ought
to look once more on some of the old
landmarks of London, I was flattered into
a gracious acceptance.
One soft, purry August morning we
started out. I was supposed to be ab
solutely under her direction, but when
the remarked casually that we would
take a 'bus, I rebelled.
"I have never been In or on the horrid
things," I protested, "and I never Intend
to."
But she only said, "We'll stand on the
corner of Oxford street, and wait for a
City Atlas," and somehow I immediately
felt quite accustomed to City Atlases, and
Intuitively knew it would be a blue one,
but it wasn't.
Imitating Miss Anna's air of habitual
custom. I swung myself aboard of the
moving monster, and laboriously climbed
the curving companion-way at the back.
Once In our seats, it was not so bad;
though very like riding the whirlwind,
w ithout being allowed to direct the storm.
.Miss Anna drew my attention to points
of interest as we passed them. In her
tactful way she humored my idiosyncrasy.
She never said, "On your riEht is the
'Salutation and Cat,' where Coleridge and
Southey and Umb used to congregate of
a Winter evening." She said, instead,
"Haven't you always thought 'Salutation
end Cat,' the very dearest tavern in all
London?"
Nor when we came to the half-timbered
nouses of Holborn did she say, "Here
lived Lamb's godfather, who was known
to and visited by Sheridan."
She said: "Don't you like Hawthorne's
way of putting these things? You re
member how he tells us that on his first
visit to London he went astray in Hol
born, through an arched entrance, in a
court opening inward, with a great many
sunflowers in full bloom."
All this pleased me. as. did also
Bum pus's great book-shop, which is, I
think, in this neighborhood.
Another delightful pastime was observ
ing the signs over the shop doors. As the
English are adept in the making of
phrases, so are they especially happy in
adjusting their callings to their names.
J.est I he considered frivolous, I shall
mention only two; but surely there could
Women Now Have Diet
IET luncheons are the newest fad
with women. There is in conse
quence despair in the hearts of
many of the fashionable maitres d'hotel
who made reputations by composing
tempting menus for midday feminine
feasts, says the New York Sun.
Extravagance began to run riot a few
seasons ago, when women woke to the
fact that they could entertain more
easily and even more Inexpensively at
the hotels than In their own homes.
They changed the dining-rooms trom
dreary, half-filled apartments Into gay
bowers during the hours from 1 to 3
P. M., and each hostess tried to outdo
the others in ordering rich aod rare
things for her feast.
Besides that, for years the meals
known to men as women's luncheons,
were made up of strange combinations
of hot and cold foods, with much rich
pastry and cakes. Chocolate and coffee
were the liquids, and women accumu
lated flesh and cultivated dyspepsia in
trying to keep up. 1
Hut all that Is changed now, and even
in the cheaper places, where the shop
ping woman was wont to run in for a
few eclairs, a lobster croquette and an
li ed tea. there is rigid avoidance of the
old-time, dishes pim! a marked tendency
to the regular diet foods, such as un
lettered toast in place of bread, coffee
and tea without cream or sugar, and
avoidance of sweets.
Reduction cures and beauty cures
started the new order of things and
within the last few years doctors have
leen prescribing diets as a cure for
various ills such as rheumatism, nerves
a till the troubles which proceeded direct-,
ly from the stomach. It looks as though
the drugless age was about to dawn
when high-priced specialists tell their
patients to drink hot water mornings
and live on rare beef, spinach of aspar
agus and salads without oil, which is
one of the iiniversal cures that a well
known doctor Is giving dozens of his
- patients.
The fight against fat is getting to be
so serious a matter that nine women
out of ten are -cutting down their daily
allowance of food and when two r
three of them meet for a midday bite
they agree on the slmplest possible
fare. At a Turkish bath the other day
a party of women ordered for their
lunch dry toast and coffee with an extra
large and fine dish of fruit.
It cannot be said that the restaurants
enjoy the new fad for diet luncheons.
Several of these places, the best-known,
in fact, have made a specialty of pro
viding hundreds of the very richest
kinds of cakes and concoctions made
with cream and sugar for the feminine
limcheon each day. Now an observer
-will sec women with glasses of milk
instead of chocolate or coffee, and toast
or bread and butter substituted for the
little mounds of cake and jelly covered
with pink and green icing and ringed
with whipped cream.
"There is a decided change in the
midday orders for women's luncheons,'
said the head waiter of one of the
popular rooms, "but it is only a fad and
will not last. A woman who goes in for
a luncheon alone may afford to have
but a cup of soup and a biscuit, but
when she goes out to luncneon tt Is,
different.
"t-lie looks then for something more
tempting, and. above all, new. These
things may not be heavy, in fact they
must not be, but the beef and spinach
diet will, not remain a standing order,
you may be sure, with women.
"For centuries they have been fond
of sweets, and it is. you might say. a
part of the feminine nature to care
more for things wth whipped cream
and sugar and icing than for plain
- foods. I think it would detract from
the charm and the fascination of wo
men generally if they became vege
tarians or adopted the idea of mere
meat and a vegetable as a diet.
"The women of Russia and of France
are notably beautiful and- charming
and they are certainly not abstemious
so far as the Juxuries of the table are
concerned. American women have al
ways lived well from the days of the
Puritans when they' discovered the ex
cellence of turkey and mince pie. in
spite of their strict sense of life's re
sponsibilities and duties.
"American women have always been
famous cooks, and this proves that
they can appreciate good rooking. The
not be more appropriate names for den
tists than two whose signboards proudly
announced Shipley Slipper, and, across the
street from him Mr. Strong-i'th'arm:
We went on, absorbed in our view of
kaleidoscopic London, until Miss Anna
decreed that we go down to the ground
again. There was no elevator as in
the Flatiron building, so we tumbled"
down the back stairs and were thrown
off.
The sequence of the places we visited
I do not remember, but they seemed to
be mostly churches and taverns.
St. ' Paul's was taken casually, as in
deed It should be. being like a corpora
tion, without a soul.
Exteriorly, and from a goodly distance,
St. Paul's 4s perfection. From the river,
or from Parliament Hill, It Is sympa
thetic and responsive. But inside It is
a mere vastness of mosaic and gilding,
peopled with shiny marbles of heroic
size. There Is an -.impressive grandeur
of art, but no message for the spirit. It
Is magnificent, but it is not church.
Miss Anna and I walked properly about
the edifice, fortunately agreeing in our
attitude toward it.
From here, I think, she led me across
something and through something and
around something else, and then we were
in St. Bartholomew's Church. Being
the oldest church In London. St. Bar
tholomew's Is historically Important, but
it Is interesting and delightful as well.
The very air inside has been shut in
there ever since the twelfth century, yet
one breathes it normally, and enjoys
the Biiddcn backward transition. Had I
the time, I could easily find an inclina
tion to walk every day round its ancient
triforlum.
As we left the church the Charter
house put itself In our way. Though
other British subjects were educated at
this school, it remains sacred to the mem
ory of Thackeray. From here he wrote
to his mother, "There are but 370 boys
In this school, "and I wish there were
only 36.1." But visitors to the Charter
house are glad .that the 370th boy re
mained there, and stamped the whole
plaj:e with his gentle memory. The at
mosphere of the Charter-house is won
derfully calm; it does not connote boys,"
but seems tranquilly imbued with the
later wisdom of the great men who spent
their youthful days within its walls.
The stranger In London has a decided
advantage over the resident, In that he
can choose his heroes.
A friend of mine, who lives In Chelsea
proudly assured me that he could throw
a stone from his garden into Carlyle's!
The point of his remark seemed to be
not his superior marksmanship, but the
South, which Is famed for its cooking,
produces the most beautiful women.
They remain slim and elegant and
charming, although they eat waffles
and fried chicken and other foods for
which their section of the country is
famous.
"New York women have a tendency
to stoutness, but this is a matter of cli
mate and temperament rather chan
their food. Some of the very stoutest
women weigh every bit of bread and
butter they eat, or maybe they eliminate
both and take saccharine tablets in place
of sugar.
"At present there is a taboo on
many of the dishes that used to be
feminine favorites, notably chicken and
lobster salads, but then does anyone
eat these two dishes as they used? I
think not. At supper there is a call
for them, but luncheons and dinners
find them left out.
t s.i t ,., .VI V W . SW3
PHOTOGRAPHING AN . ELEPHANT WITH THE X-RAYS.
"Several days ago an elephant in the Cincinnati Zoological Gardens swallowed a diamond ring which had been dropped by a lady visitor. It was important that the missing jewel be "lo
cated." For this purpose the service of an X-ray photographing apparatus was called Into use and the great beast was "taken" In sections. At first she resented the strange device and be
came obstreperous, her keeper being obliged to use his wits and his Instruments of punishment to make her tractable. When, the animal learned that the camera was harmless, she submit
ted In ; good grace. Her pose is here shown in this remarkable photograph.
proximity to the garden of a great man.
Now, were I of the stone-throwing sex,
there is many a dead ' hero at whose
garden I should aim before I turned to
ward Carlyle's. But of course this was
because my friend lived in Chelsea.
Therefore tho non-resident, not . being
confined to a locality, can throw im
aginary stones into any one's garden.
A desultory discussion of this -subject
caused Miss Anna to propose that our
next stone be aimed at the garden of
Dr. Samuel Johnson.
So to the Cheshire Cheese we went.
The Imposing personality of Dr. John
son and the antiquity of the famous tav
ern led me to anticipate great things;
and I was sorely, disappointed (as prob
ably most visitors are) at the plainly
spread table, the fearfully hard seats
and the trying umbrella-rack filled with
sawdust.
Of course we occupied the historic
Luncheons
"On the other hand, there are many
new dishes that have come to take
tliel. TTaMia an4 ova wndnnKtaHlv lial.
fVer. Grapefruit seems a substitute for
soup at women's luncheons, and chicken
sweetbreads and fish to a great extent
take the place of beef and mutton.
"The rule is to have very few vege
tables, two at most, and this obtains
with women's - menus. Potatoes are en
tirely barred by many women, as their
fattening properties are generally un
derstood. "Others bar tomatoes In any form, as
they are supposed to tend to uric acid,
which means rheumatism and kindred
disorders. Sweets of all kinds stand for
obesity, and women, many of them,
will order coffee and fruit as a dessert.
"But men are the real diet fiends. For
instance, we have a number of men who
will have nothing but crackers and
milk for luncheon; others will have pie
corner, where, according to the brass
tablet. Dr. Johnson loved to linger; but
two young American women whose tastes
are not of the sanded floor and mulled
ale variety cannot at a midday meal
whoop up much of the atmosphere that
probably surrounded the smoke-wreathed
midnights. of Johnsonian revelry.
Not that we didn't enjoy It. for we
were of a mind to enjoy everything that
day; but the appreciation was entirely
objective. Methodically we climbed the
stairs and viewed all the rooms of the
old, old house, and on the top floor were
duly shown by the guide the old 'arm
chair in which Dr. Johnson used to sit.
A stout twin was tied across from arm
to arm, that pilgrims might not further
wear out the old cushion. When I, as
an enormous jest, asked the guide to cut
the string, that I might sit In the his
toric chair, he cheerfully did so, and' I
considered the fee well spent that al
and milk,' and the waiter's fee is as
much as the check. At this season we
have several men who order strawberry
shortcake with cream and sugar and
have nothing else.
"But the sad thing Is that with all
this sacrifice the flesh stays on some
people, especially women. And that is
why I am sure that the simple diet fad
will not be long-lived with them, ex
cept In cases of actual illness.
"Dieting will help the health and
the appearance of women, but climate
it appears to me, is what determines,
the type of the feminine sex. The
women of England, for instance, eat a
great deal more than Americans, but
they remain long, lanky and languid
and never fatten until late In life.
"French women are plumper, but of
delicate frame, With long, thin feet,
and they are not inclined to be tall.
But the American women are Junos
and they are built sturdily with
straight backs and exquisite feet and
limbs. Unfortunately they have a ten
dency to take on flesh, but they have
wakened to the danger of late, and
that is one reason why the diet lunch
eon fad has taken hold of chem."
j .Lr ,
lowed me to linger for a moment on the
very dusty cushions of Dr. Johnson's own
chair.
I afterward learned that the string
business was a fraud, and was renewed
and cut again for each curious visitor.
I accept with equanimity this clever
ruse, but I'm still wondering how they
renew the dust. f
While we were doing Early Restau
rants Miss Anna said, "We must take
In Crosby Place."
This pleased me hugely, for I remem
bered how Gloucester, in "Richard the
Third," was everlastingly repairing to
Crosby Place, and I desired to know
what was the attraction.
I found if interesting, but, lacking
Gloucester, I shall not repair there of
ten. To be sure. It is a magnificent
house, Gothic, Perpendicular and all that,
the hangings and appointments are,
probably, much as they used to be, but
The Proper
THE woman who keeps her hands in
good condition now manicures
twice a day, once when dressing in
the morning and once when retiring.
The second manicuring Is the more im
portant of the two.
The grooming of the hands, like the
grooming of the hair, takes a great deal
of time. The hands must be bleached
until enow white and they must have the
skin treated until it Is fine.
Then the temperature of the hands
must receive attention. Women who sit
with hands tightly clasped will have hot
hands. Women whose nerves are un
strung will have hands suggesting the
zero point.
The most agreeable hands are those
that merely convey the impression of
warmth. They are neither hot nor cold.
It Is part of the work of the hand cul-
after all, I do not care greatly for eat
ing among Emotions.
Whereupon Miss Anna cheerfully pro
posed that we visit the Tower.
"No," said I, with decision; and then,
my mind still on "Richard the Third," I
quoted: "I do not like the Tower, of any
place." ,
I'm not sure I should have been able
so bravely to disclaim an Interest In the
Tower, had It not been that the night
before I had heard a wise and .prominent
Londoner state' the fact that he had
never visited it.
"No Londoner has ever been to the
Tower," he declared. "We used to say
that we Intended to go some time or
other, but now; we don't even say that."
I was greatly relieved to learn this, for
I'm positive that the Tower is hideous
and uninteresting. As an alternative,
I asked that we might visit the railway
stations.
Aside from the romance that is indi
genous to all railway stations, there are
peculiar characteristics of - the great
Indon termini that are of absorbing in
terest. And so strong are the claims
each puts forth for pre-eminence, it is In
deed difficult to award a palm.
Euston has Its columns. Charing Cross
its Tribute to Queen Eleanor, St. Pan
eras a spacious roominess and Victoria
a wofully-crowded and limited space.
Each station has its own sort of people,
and, though Indubitably they must min
gle upon occasion, yet the type of crowd
at each station Is invariably the same.
And yet, after all, my heart goes back
with fondest memories to Kuston. Not
the crowd, not even the atmosphere, but
the mysterious influence which emanates
from those wonderful columns.. Not only
the sight of them as you approach from
London, but the queer, almost uncanny
way in which they permeate the whole
place. They follow you through the sta
tion and Into the train, and not for many
miles can you get out from under the
presence of those perfect shapes.
Coming Into London, Cannon street Is
a good station to choose, if your route
permit, but going out, Euston or Charing
Cross should, if possible, be selected.
Before, after or during, our station vis
its, we touched on a few more churches.
The Temple Church proved a delight be
cause of the bronze Knights peacefully
resting there. Miss Anna told me they
were called Crusaders because they chose
to lie with their legs crossed. This was
probably true, for the position was main
tained by all of them. Oliver Goldsmith
is buried here, but I had no particular
desire to throw a stone into his grave
yard, so we went on, Owing toa change
Grooming of the Hand;
turtet to make the hands of the right
degree of warmth.
The, French woman gives much care
to her hands. She is very economical
of all things and specially of her beauty
lotions. Thus after manicuring she slips
on an old pair of gloves which she has
patched and fitted until they are big and
comfortttble upon her hands.
In these she keeps her hands encased
for half a day. When she removes them,
her finger tips are beautifully manicured.
The gloves have been treated to keep the
hands white and soft, and while she was
working her gloves have been making her
hands prettier.
The French treatment for the inside of
gloves Is simple. The gloves are turned
Inside out and the Inner surface Is Ironed
with a cream made by 'taking sheep's fat
and trying It out on a warm stove. It is
cooled, and as it hardens Into a white cake
of cream a few drops of camphor is put
of mood, we no longer rode on the 'buses,
but took a hansom from one place to an
other. This was not as extravagant as
it might seem, for, notwithstanding as
sertions to the contrary', one cannot ride
enough in London cabs to make the bill
of any considerable amount, at least s
compared to a New York cab bill. And
Shakespeare averred that "nothing is
small or great but by comparison. "
As our cab bumplly threaded Its way
along the crammed Strand, the bright
colored mass of humanity and traffic
seemed to me the pre-eminent London. I
wanted no more sightseeing, I wanted no
more historical association. I merely
wanted to continue this opportunity for
feasting on real City London. I vora
ciously bit oft large chunks of the (tirnos
phere as we passed through y, which I
am even yet digesting and assimilating.
As a compliment to this view of Lon
don, we suddenly decided to call on a
friend for a cup of tea. A personal, at
home tea would be a pleasant contrast to
the publicity of our day.
Deciding upon the coziest and homeliest
tea-dispenser, we drove to Mrs. Todd's,
'in Kensington.
It Is a great satisfaction to know that
the unpromising portal of a London house
will positively lead eventually to a de
lightful back garden, and tea.
We were welcomed by our charming
hostess in her pretty training summeri
ness, and were immediately transformed
from whimsical sightseers Into ( sociable
teadrinkers.
Though It was by no means a special
occasion, the garden was bright with
flowers and people;- and the tea and
cakes were served under the inevitable
marquee. It wag ' Mrs. Todd's weekly
day at home, and the guests were all
amiable and charming. A young wo
man with a phenomenal voice, sang to
'us from the back parlor windows, and
thereby gave a stimulus to the conver
sation. All was usual and orthodox.
Everybody listened politely to every
body's else chatter, and, apparently un
hearing, answered at random, and quite
often wrongly.
It seemed to me that even in this land
of bright flowers the blossoming plants
were of unusually brilliant hues. As I
took my departure I commented on this,
and my hostess responded w'ith a superb
Indifference: "Really? yes, they are
rather good ones. The nursery- man
fetched them early this afternoon, and
after you are all gone.he will come and
carry them away": and. If you please,
those ridiculous plants were in pots, sunk
into the earth and giving all the effect
of a beautiful growing garden!
This fable teaches that our English sis
ters are not above the small bluffs more
often ascribed to American femininity.
into it. The result is a camphor smelling
cake of whiteness.
With this the Inner side of the gloves is
ironed. To make it easier for the ama
teur a little white wax can 'be added.
It is applied with the point of a warm
iron.
Hands must now be prepared In a new
way, for the fashion in hands has
changed. No longer do they lie in re
pose upon one's lap. They must move
about and be expressive.
Hands need various treatment accord
ing to the language they speak. There
is a literary woman in London who uses
her hands to signify deep thought. She
sits with the tips of the Angers lightly
touching. It is a pretty trick if one can
perform It cleverly and if one's hands
are good.
The shape of the finger tips is of the ut
most importance. The nails should be'
short and the ends of the fingers plump
yet tapering.
The girlish posture for the hands Is in
the lap, open and with the palms upward.
They must have no rings or other Jew
elry, and the color of the palms should
be a deep rose.
Hands that are not exercised grow old
so soon. Yet the exercise of the hands Is
difficult for the reason that one Is apt to
carry it too far. The little girl who plays
marbles unconsciously puts her hands
through just the right movements to keep
them supple. She turns her wrists; ehe
rolls her arms; she moves each finger
separately, and she dimples her knuckles.
The dimpling of the knuckles is very
important. Try to dimple the back of
your hand. open your fingers wide,
stretch them as far back as you can and
see If your knuckles do not show little
dimple spots. Practice each day, and
your hands will begin to look pretty.
A graceful mowement of the hands is
that of placing the palms together so
that the hands clasp each other loosely.
This is very effective if the hands are
young and full of pretty curves. It
shows the rings and enables one to dis
play a set of perfect finger tips. But it
is trying If the hands be old and
Wrinkled, knotty or disposed vto be
coarse. , ,
The most Important manicuring of
the day comes at night. The finger
tips must be soaked in oil and the flesh
pushed back with a stick cut like a
horseshoe on one end. This is wound
with cotton and pressed upon the nail
gently, so as to force the flesh back
and make the nail almond shaped.
Then the nails should be gently
rubbed with some good nail emollient
to keep them from splitting. Finally,
the hands are lightly bleached to keep
them in good color. Then the hands
are ready for the night.
Sleeping in gloves is annoying in the
Summertime. But if the backs of the
hands are growing freckled or tanned,
one can sleep in gloves from which the
palm has Deen removed. The backs
and fingers of. tho .gloves are Ironed
with a good bleaching cream or aro
filled Willi glove paste.
In the mornjng the handy are washed
well In oatmeal water and soap, and
rinsed in boracic acid and water. Once
a Week they are whitened in a very
weak carbolic bath and once In two
weeks they are bleached with a lemon
bath. This- course ,with an occasional
sponging with peroxide of hvdrogen
will keep the hands in good color.
When the hands are manicured in
the morning theyare well washe I and
rii sed. Thej' are then whii-jucd with
co!u cream and the nails are polished.
If they are dull a little colored salve
is rubbed into them or they are stained
with fresh trawbeiry jutce. Tien the
plush is applied, and the woman who
is careful of her hands will slip thom
Into big, loose gloves for the morning's
work.
The individuality of the fingers Is one
of the tricks taught to the aspirant for
good hands. Do not keep your fingers
all grouped in a little bunco, bu; sep
arate them.
Hands must be properly dressed these
days. The woman who wears rings
must wear them smartly. In London
they wear rings In a series, on all four
fingers.
The dressing of the hands takes a
great deal of time. The woman who
keeps her hands nice must put half an
hour a day upon them. But this is not
an extravagant price to pay for a pair
of handsome hands.