1
THE SUNDAY" OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, . MAT 10, ,VJOS.
ifJ?:' Y -Y if Where No i y? ::fcr!y ;W V ; ;. 1
M''C' .H. t 4 f'v if Professor,' . , vfe'' Xsi ;1 uVll
fff Uj .(.ViSy-X'-KiUI Attendant lk"4tprArvr'. --v U- -: 11
: tUtlhh.t i "-Try or Students- lv-t-iv - v-fl
i r45T j. u-iu I I- t I life! 'I!;- ' IWny . - ifWlvTt, f ' r
? A . rf-'.;?U;o - esv V J ' 1 v (X- vAjt J -M fNsad
HAT a sensation it would have '
made a few years ago if the world
" had been presented With the spec
tacle of a hospital clinic, a patient in im
minent peril of death on the operating
table in the middle of the amphitheatre,
and about her only women surgeons, and
women nurses, which filled the students'
benches! Not a man within call, a fight
between life and death under way and
jet not a feminine qualm! On the con
trary, the highest medical science is here
combined with that peculiarly delicate
and almost Intuitive skill which is de
veloped in the woman physician.
And this is the dally spectacle In at
least one institution In the world, as yet
unique, but surely destined not to be for
long. Woman as doctor and surgeon has
quickly come Into high recognition and
schools like the Woman's Medical Col
lege, of Pennsylvania, will soon be de
manded in every state if the "weaker
sex" is to have Its desires for a pro
fessional career satisfied.
You will find it interesting to come with
us to the clinic of this college, for it will
MEN'S FASHIONS IN OLD EUROPE
London Rules Them All Except In Details Freaks of Clothes in German y.
THE report from London that tailors
of all nations are flocking to Biar
ritz to study the clothes of King Edward
and thereby to learn London modes
ought to satisfy the patriotism of the
English tailors,' yet it is a fact that there
are many persons who have lost con
fidence in the overwhelming supremacy
of the London designer.
It is not alone In this country that
there is a disposition to be In a degree
Independent of what London has to say
about men's dress. Even in other coun
tries there Is no longer a slavish adop
tion of what London says is right. It is
true rather that the fashions of other
countries have In recent seasons- had an
undeniable effect on the dress of London.
This is seen more especially in the ten
dency to wear tighter clothes.
"As a matter of fact," said one of the
New York tailors who follow the plan of
the dressmakers and go twice a year to
Europe to see the newest developments
in styles, "London tailors would have
been dressing their customers as much
like bags as ever if they had not seen
from the models of men's dress that
came from the Continent that there was
a limit to looseness as a characteristic
of men's dress.
"Young men -especially came to the
conclusion that there was something in
trigness and smartness. They saw young
men of other nations showing how slim
and athletic they were and decided that
It was not necessary for them to go
about draped In the loose garments that
Ixindon tailors considered the only possi
ble kind.
"They impressed this fact on their
tailors and the styles changed. The
smartest clothes of the day are rather
tight-fitting. That Is one effect of the
despised Continental fashions on Lon
don dress."
This tailor goes into the details of his
profession with the interest of a savant
and has just made a tour of Europe to
study men's dress. He landed in Naples
give you an entirely new sidelight on
"the sex." A hundred, or more young
women apparently just the sort of ev
eryday girls that scream at the sight of
blood or a mouse sit around calmly and
Intently watching the operation, while
over the patient the operating physiplan
and her assistant. In antiseptic cloth
ing, caps and rubber gloves, work in
calm serenity, though with Infinite deft
ness and sureness of touch. There Is not
a symptom of panic or hysteria in the
corps of attendants and nurses who
quickly and silently take their stations,
each with her part assigned to her before
hand and each ready to fill It on a word
or a look, quickly and silently.
Another feature of this remarkable
scene Is that among the attractive lis
teners to the doctor's lecture are stu
dents from several foreign countries.
A young Chinese women Is in her third
year at the college and when gradu
ated will return to the Orient to prac
tice a more recently taught method of
curing human Ills than that in vogue
In the Flowery Land, where shark's lin
tonic and dried frog lozenges are con
when the men had just begun to put
on lighter weight clothes.
"Contrary to the usual impression,"
,he said, "the Italians are well-dressed
men, probably the best dressed in Con
tinental Europe.
"This I. attribute in part to the fact
that Italians are easy to fit. They
keep their figures. Corpulence under
60 is unusual among men of the better
class.
"The sack coats were particularly i
well cut. Like the trousers, they dif- ,
fered from the London styles In that
they fitted the figure somewhat more
closely, although they retain the best
trait of the London cut in fitting tight
ly over the shoulders only and not
attempting to follow the lines of the
waist and hips. The coats were al
ways cut low enough in the neck to
show part of the waistcoat.
"In Germany there is little or nothing
to satisfy the American standard of
dress, unless it Is found among the
men who are dressed by the best Lon-.
don tailors. The wealthy officers and
aristocrats wear English clothes and
standt therefore, in the class of the
international dressers and do not count
as Oermans.
"Moderate""price tailors in Germany
vie with the most expensive in turning
out appalling specimens of clothing.
Remotely they must follow some mod
ern style, but their object seems to
be to eliminate every trace of modish
ness. .
"The military cut obsesses every Ger
man tailor, who seems to have the
idea that he is making a uniform. Ail
German clothes look like military uni
forms gone wrong.
"Shoulders are padded to ironlike
stiffness. Coats are cut so close to
the body that their wearers, since the
long sack coats have become the fash
Ion, look like sausages or dachshunds.
Trousers must fit as tightly as if
they were to be strapped down over
the boots. -
, "This military idea floats before the
sidered potent medicaments. Another
interesting student comes from Con
stantinople and intends to minister to
the physfbal needs of the women of
the Sultan's domain when she has won
her degree; still others are from New
Zealand, Australia and one Is an Ital
ian. . . ..
In order that the true significance of
th-i success of this unique institution
mav be realized, it is only necessary to
hark, back to the early days of the
efforts of women to break into the
profession of medicine. . In a volume
written by the dean, of the Woman's
College of Pennsylvania, Dr. Clara
Marshall, the following Is extracted
from one of the leading newspapers
of Philadelphia, the report having ref
erence to a clinic at the Pennsylvania
Hospital, on November 6.-1899:
"The students of the male colleges,
knowing that the ladles would be pres
ent, turned out several hundred strong,
with the design of expressing their
disapproval of the action of the mana
gers of the hospital particularly and
eyes of every German tailor, whatever
may be the style of the year.' Even
dress suits are made on the military
plan. The shoulders are padded out
until they are square and the body
of the coat cut so closely in to the
figure that every line is revealed,
whether or not it happens to be the
kind of figure adapted to sucn revela
tions. Many of the officers are of the
physical type that makes such a fit
very becoming. When the round
shculdered, paunchy civilian is dressed
In the same inflexible fashion the re
sult is not nearly so successful.
"In Vienna the men are much bet
ter dressed when they make any pre
tence to dressing well at all. Their
clothes follow much more closely the
London models and they have a suspi
cion of the Italian chic in their cut.
"There is much less padding about the
clothes worn by the well dressed
Austrians. who have not the German
'desire for stiffness and primness. Nor do
coats fit so tightly as to show every
curve. Austrians, and one means by them
also the men of Budapest, take much
more interest in dressing than the men of
Germany.
"One weakness will always prevent the
Germans from being as well dressed as
other Europeans or as Americans. They
find too much delight in any patent con
trivance to save trouble in dressing.
"It they can get anything that saves
time In getting their clothes on they are
happy. They dearly love a ready-made
necktie that snaps into place under their
collar button and stays there. They love
a -large plastron tie that covers a flannel
shirt and comes up to the celluloid collar
which looks like genuine linen.
"All these devices they call practical.
Any race that makes mere practicability
its Ideal in dress can never turn out smart
looking men.
"London models prevail In France, and
several of the best-known tailors in the
West End have branches by the Seine.
These establishments include among their
of the admission of women to the medi
cal profession generally.
"Ranging themselves In line, these
gallant gentlemen assailed the young
ladles as they passed out with insolent
and offensive language, and then fol
lowed them into the street, wnere the
whole gang, with the fluency or long
practice, Joined in insulting them. It
was in action which .deprived every
man in the crowd ot all claim to the
title of gentleman. If these women
had given gross offense. If they had
indulged In any unwomanly benavior.
If they had intruded themselves In the
hospital In violation of the rules, even
then there would have been no excuse
for such infamous conduct as this on
the part of the students. But these
ladies had absolute right there; they
were admitted by precisely tlie same
authority that admits men, and, more
than this, it was right that they should
ac,cept the privilege offered tnem if
they wished to do so."
Subsequently there appeared as a com
munication to the same paper the following:
customers many Frenchmen. Tailors come
over every two weeks for fittings.
"The cutters are brought every fortnight
from London because the Frenchmen feel
that they are getting the fashions much
more directly when the cutter does not
make his abode in Paris. These men
defer to the tastes of their foreign
customers in a way that has been power
ful enough to affect the London styles.
"One of the first influences to bring
Into style the tighter clothes worn now
by the Englishmen came through the
Paris customers of the London tailors.
They would not accept the London bag
giness. No Frenchman would ever feel
himself dressed while rolling around m
so much room.
"The cutters who went over from Lon
don saw the advantage of this change In
the style and promptly introduced it for
those at home that wanted it. Thus
came into existence the present style of
wearing tighter clothes.
"This influence of a Continental taste
on London dress will have the effect of
making her arbiters of fashion a little
broader In the future. They will not try
to be so absolute in decreeing what is
wrong or right.
"France had previously influenced men's
fashions in London, however. The light
waistcoats worn at all times,, the pale
fawn or gray gloves and the white topped
shoes all those came from" France. So
did the turned over standing collar, which
was a year ago regarded as a Gallic freak
only to be laughed at by proud Anglo
Saxons., So long as the King of England
has his shirts made In the Rue de la Paix
and wealthy Englishmen go to Paris for
their boots France will have some influ
ence on London fashions."
The Map o the Heart.
Xew York Sun. -Old
worlds are new and new worlds are old.
To each Columbus are paths unrolled
By the map o' the heart.
The seas are narrow and streams are wide.
Mountains unite and plains divide.
By ' the map o' the heart.
The capital city ot all the world
Is a little town tn a valley curled.
By the map o' the heart.
The latitude Is the breadth of love.
The longitude is the height Above,
By the map o' the heart.
Throuprh blinding denert or trackless foam
One never is lost !f he but roam
By the map o' the heart.
"When the ladies entered the amphi
theater they were greeted by yells, hisses,
caterawallings, mock applause, offensive
remarks upon personal appearance, etc.
During the last hour missiles of paper,
tinfoil tobacco quids, etc., were thrown
upon the ladies."
It is a great transformation from, this
scene of disorder at the clinic in 1S99 to
that of the year of 1908, but in reality the
progress has been painfully slow and la
borious. The women have fought their
way upward In the medical profession,
meeting all opposition firmly and brave
ly, and mounting step by step, until today
they have their own college, their own
clinics, their own examinations, their own
degrees, and their own sphere of action.
The course at the college extends over
four years, at the end of which time the
student may try for her degree. During
the course opportunity is afforded for
practical instruction at. the Woman's Hos
pital, and at public clinics in other insti
tutions open to students from the colleges
where bedside talks are given, as well
as clinical demonstrations. Bandaging,
FETICHISM KILLS THOUSANDS
Crimes ot Witch Doctors in Darkest Africa, AVhere Victims Fall Dead Kvery Hour.
THE whites in barbarous Africa say
that in spite of the evils the white
race has inflicted upon the natives,
the good they are receiving, especially
the protection to life and property which
the new governments are giving them,
vastly outweighs the evil.
All authorities have much to say of
the horrible misery which fetich doctors
impose upon the natives. They assert
that fetichism is the cause of more
crimes and suffering than all the native
wars, epidemics and cannibalism that
afflict parts of the Dark Continent.
These brutalities can be excused only
because the people have always lived In
savagery.
Lieutenant Poupard. of the French
army, who has been traveling thousands
of miles in the French Congo, says that
the victims of fetichism are falling every
hour all over that vast domain. Many
of the victims drop in their tracks and
are dead in a few minutes.
They know who dealt them their
death, and so do all the natives, but
they do not dare to breath his name.
It Is the fetich doctor who has caused
poison stealthily to be mixed with their
food.
In January, 1906, while Poupard's party,
was passing through a little village they
saw a vigorous young man surrounded
by natives, who were accusing him of
crime. A bowl filled with a red fluid
was given to the young man, who drained
it.
A few minutes later he fell on his face
and was soon dead. He was a victim of
the poison test. If his stomach had re
fused to retain the liquid and he had
lived his innocence of the crime would
have been proved. The poison killed
him, and this was clear proof of his
guilt.
Some days later at Mbeto the same
party heard a great hubbub and fgund
a woman on the ground covered with
wounds. Her left shoulder and her right
operative surgery,, and the application of
fraction dressings are taught, maternity
cases attended by the advance students,
work done In the dissecting-room and fre
quent operations "witnessed in the clinic
by the advanced students. Clinical lec
tures are also given by specialists in dis
eases of the skin, the nervous system,
the eye, the ear, the' throat and the nose.
What becomes of the graduates? There
Is a mistaken notion existing that most
of them marry and cease to practice their
profession. To prove how erroneous is
this idea, an effort was made some time
ago to trace the careers of 244 of the
graduates of the college. Of this number
K6 responded affirmatively to the ques
tion: Are you now engaged in actual
medical practice? Twenty-three respond
ed in the negative, giving as their rea
sons, domestic duties, 8; philanthropic,
work. 1; ill health, 6; retired, 3; no rea
son assigned, 6; 76 of the women written
to replied stating the monetary value
of their practice per year. Twenty-four
made J10OO a year or more, but less than
J20C0; 20 as much as $2000 and less than
$STO0; 10 as much as 13000 and less than
forearm had been cut to the bone, there
was a gaping wound in her hip and her
body was covered with contusions.
She had received no care, though her
injuries had been inflicted several days
before. The white men came in time to
save her life. They dressed her wounds
and cared for her until she was well.
She told them that her husband had
dlefl and in the course of his interment
the fetich doctor cried out to the people
that their friend had not died a natur
al death, but his -wives had killed him.
All the men in the village immediate
ly set upon - the unfortunate women
and only one of them lived to describe
the crime.
Poupard on another day came across
some women running at top speed with
babies on their backs, . pursued by a
crowd of men who were hurling poi
soned Javelins at them. The fetich
doctor had accused these women of
looking upon the bieri. a sacred ob
ject that had been taken out of its
box for an airing. ' Any woman who
even inadvertently should look upon
this, object would be put to death.
On the River Muni lives an old man
with 22 wives, some of whom are young
and attractive. B'or two years past it
has been observed that evef y young
man who has attempted to settle on
the adjoining lands has mysteriously
died. There is no doubt that the aged
husband, in league with the local fetich
doctor, has brought about their death.
Most of . the tribes do not believe
that a man dies naturally. Some ene
my Is always the cause of his death,
and the fetich doctor Is brought Into
the case and points out the criminal.
Mr. Bret found at Ndombo In October
last three natives weighed down by
stones at the bottom or a box, where
they had lingered In agony for days
because the fetich doctor suspected
that they hail cast a spell upon a boat
man who had been drowned In a ship
wreck. On February " 13 last Commandant
$4000; 5 as much as J4000 and less than
$5000; 3 as much as JS000 and less than
$15,000. Four reported sums varying from
$15,000 to $30,000 per year; ten reported less
than $1000 a year. The average Income
was found to be $2907.30.
Women holding the diplomas of the
Woman's Medical College of Pennsylvania
have been appointed as physicians or sur
geons at over 150 public institutions, chief
ly hospitals, dispensaries, infirmaries, ref
uges or sanitariums. The college has
graduated pupils from .. more than 40
states and territories of the United States
and from Canada, Prince Edward Island,
Nova Scotia. New Brunswick, Jamaica,
Brazil. England, Sweden, Denmark,
Switzerland, Russia, Syria, India, China,
Japan, Burmah, Australia, and the Congo
Free State. Its living alumnae number
about a thousand and are found In nearly
every part of the American Republic and
in many foreign countries, among them
pfeypt, India, China, Japan, Persia and
Corea.
Can one ask any finer proof of the
progress of women as real partners In
the world's work?
Moll, In a lecture before the Paris Geo
graphical Society, told of bereaved
widows who- had been compelled to
take the poison test to show who were
responsible for their husband's death.
Some of the. women survived because
their friends pave presents to the
wizard, who thereupon mixed an in
nocuous dose for them. The bodies
of the murdered women were eaten.
These are not isolated cases, hut far
and wide over Africa superstition is
still claiming the lives of thousands.
But the influence of the fetich doctof
is ' already beginning to decline be
cause It in now a crime severely pun
ished under the laws of the Congo Free
State, the French Congo and all
Rhodesia to practice the black arts
of the fetich doctor. The bonds in
which he lias held the helpless people
will some dny be broken.
Fences and Offenses.
New York Sun.
Inside of the fence you may ramble
And bet like a regular FDort;
Outside if the fence, it you camble
You may have to answer at court.
The thlna: is as old as creation;
Indeed, it bffcHU wiLh the race;
Inside was beatification:
Outside of the fence was disjrrace.
For Eve was the very first piker;
She bet a red apple to win:
And now there are lots of us Mice her
We bet. and are caught, and we sin!
Just what is considered a virtue
Depends upon where you may be;
The things that can morally hurt you
Are matters of geographee.
The fellow who lives In Missouri
May smoke, what he pleases, and yet
In Illinois faces a jury
It caught with a lle cigarette!
Oil. let us be glad there aro places
Wtre still we may do as we choos.
And put down our h.'ts on the races
Inside of the fence, though we lose.